Termwork Assignment

Banned chemicals, auxiliaries, alternative chemicals

in textile printing.

SWAGATA NAG 161051010

Printing is a process of decorating textile fabrics by application of

pigments, dyes, or other related materials in the form of patterns.
Although apparently developed from the hand painting of fabrics, such
methods are also of great antiquity. There is evidence of printing being
carried out in India during the 4th century BCE, and a printing block
dated at about 300 CE has been unearthed in the burial grounds of
Akhmīn in Upper Egypt. Pre-Columbian printed textiles have been
found in Peru and Mexico. Textile printing has become highly
sophisticated and has involved the skills of many artists and designers.

The four main methods of textile printing are block, roller, screen, and
heat transfer printing. In each of these methods, the application of the
colour, usually as a thickened paste, is followed by fixation, usually by
steaming or heating, and then removal of excess colour by washing.
Printing styles are classified as direct, discharge, or resist. In direct
printing, coloured pastes are printed directly on the cloth. For discharge
printing, the cloth is first dyed with a background colour, which is
destroyed by reagents, or reducing agents, carried in a print paste. This
action may leave the discharged design white on a coloured
background, although print pastes may also contain colouring matters
not destroyed by the discharging agent, producing a coloured design.
In the resist process, the cloth is first printed with a substance called a
resist, protecting these printed areas from accepting colour. When the
cloth is dyed or pigment padded only those parts not printed with the
resist are dyed. A special application of this technique, imparting plissé
effects, is the printing of the fabric with a resist, followed by treatment
with caustic soda.

Shirt, jacket, pants, dress, and almost everything that we wear are
made of textiles. Textiles are the main role whether clothing are
comfortable or not. It’s all depends on the characteristic of fiber that the
producers used. But, there are other factors that conclude whether a
clothes is good or not.

As you read the tittle on this article, maybe some of you would think
like, chemicals? Hazardous, banned chemicals in my lovely shirt? But,
we need to remember that chemicals are everywhere, in everything you
touch, perhaps.

Let’s think for a moment. In buying clothes, what are you looking for?
Especially for the very first time, what will you seek for? Types of
clothes? Sure, you’ll buy what you need first. But in choosing which
one to pick or try on, don’t you look at its colour and style beside its
material? Colourful clothes attract people more, hence adding aesthetic
points on clothing products. Producers surely need chemicals in order
to create those wonderful colour on your clothes, which are dyes or
pigments as colorants. Textile colorants  are okay to use, but there are
few of them which are banned due to the dangers they cause. So do
the other chemicals in textile such as fiber, biocides, flame retardants,
water repellents, and so on.

Types of  Fiber

Fibers are classified in two types, natural fiber and synthetic fiber.

1. Natural Fiber
Natural resources are the main materials to make natural fibers.
Whether it is from animals, minerals or plants. Natural fiber will make
clothing less toxic for our body, because it didn’t contain of chemicals
in it. Although it didn’t contain of chemicals, but natural clothing are
more durable, sustainable, and comfortable.

2. Synthetic Fiber
Synthetic fiber or we can say as plastic fiber is a material to make
clothing. The most common synthetic fibers are polyester, rayon,
spandex, nylon and much more.

Chemicals in Textiles

Before basic material turned into clothing, there must be a lot

processes in it. Start from basic material, then it turns into fibers, then
fibers transforms into fabrics, then fabrics will produced clothing. In
making synthetic fiber, there is a process that what is called as wet
processing.  So wet processing is a process to apply chemicals liquid
to a fabrics.

1. Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde or commonly known as formalin is a colorless,
flammable and strong odor chemicals. It is the simplest among other
aldehydes with CH2O formula, it can leads to a lot of health issues,
such as skin irritation, eyes irritation, and even cancer. Textile industry,
automobile industry, and plywood furniture industry, usually using it for
industrial purpose. In textile industry, people used formaldehyde to
prevent fabric to crease or we can say it plays as crease-resistant.

2. Phthalates
Phthalates are making plastic more durable but flexible at the same
time. This plasticizer commonly used in plastic-ware products, such as
plastic clothes, vinyl flooring, personal care product packaging,
household items, children’s toys etc.

3. Dichloromethane (DCM)
D i c h l o ro m e t h a n e ( D C M ) i s l e a s t t o x i c b e s i d e t h e o t h e r
clorohydrocarbons. But there are no chemicals that will not give side
effects, include dichloromethane (DCM), it may less-harm but if it is
heated, it still could absorbed into our skin or inhaled and cause
dizziness, headache, nausea, weakness, and  difficulty concentration.
In textile industry, dichloromethane (DCM) used for garment printing.

4. Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
Pentachlorophenol (PCP) usually found in pesticide, fungicide, or
insecticides. Although it is highly toxic, textiles or fabric industry still
using it to make clothing. In fabric industry, Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
used for finishing, to prevent fungal growth.

5. Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs)

The industry has used perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) for their non-
stick and water-resistant properties, in order to make textile products
breathable, water & stain proof. Yet unfortunately, PFCs result in many
health problems such as, affect the liver and growth and reproductive
hormones, higher cholesterol, reduced immune response, and kidney
and testicular cancer. If it contaminated the environment, like the water,
it will cause exposure, then result in health problems as mentioned
above.

Hazardous Colorants
As for colourants, there are two major chemistries, azo and
anthraquinone. Colourants based on azo chemistry “-N=N-” group. On
specific conditions, azo colourants can lead to a cleavage of the “-
N=N-” azo bond to form “–NH2” group or an amine. Until now, there are
24 carcinogenic amines which are banned in textile and leather, such
as;

1. Benzidine

This chemicals has a grayish-red, yellowish, or white color. It is very

toxic and has a crystalline aromatic amine. Benzidine has been used for
manufacture of dyes. But in 2010, the EPA’s put it on the List of
Chemicals of Concern, as well as in Group A (human carcinogens).
There’s a strong relation between exposure to benzidine and risk of
bladder and pancreatic cancer in humans.

Not just for human, animals got various tumor types from exposure.
Health hazards from benzidine occurs by exposure, such as ingestion,
inhalation, and skin absorption. Ingestion of benzidine causes cyanosis,
headache, confusion, and vomiting.

To aquatic life, it gives long lasting effect on the environment. Benzidine

is also combustible, when in a fire, it produce irritating, toxic fumes.
When it is absorb to the skin, it might results in dermatitis, irritation, or
sensitization.

2. Alkylphenols

Alkylphenols common uses in textile for dyeing and cleaning processes.

Indeed, the use of Alkylphenolscan cause bad for health such as
disrupt sexual development. Indeed, that’s one of many  list of banned
chemicals in textiles.

3. Brominated and Chlorinated Flame Retardants 

Brominated and chlorinated flame retardants (BFRs) commonly uses in

textiles that can cause bad for health such as hormone systems and
effect sexual development. This compound is banned in Europe.

4. Azo dyes

Azo dyes commonly uses for dyes color in textile. Meanwhile, the use
of this chemicals compounds can cause bad such cancer and bad
when it contacts to skin

5.  Organotin compounds

Organotin compounds is antifungal agents that use in many industries.
Indeed, they use Organotin compounds in socks, shoes, and sports
products such as sport shoes and t-shirts. Meanwhile, Organotin
compounds is restricted in Europe. As a result, Organotin compounds
affects immune and reproductive systems.

6. Perfluorinated chemicals

Perfluorinated chemicals common uses for leather prosudts and water

proof textiles. The use of this compound can effect bad to human
health and the environment. That is why, Perfluorinated chemicals is
banned in Europe.

Indeed, here are more list of banned chemicals in textiles:

Banned Substance in Products

S. No. Substance CAS No.

1 4-aminodiphenyl 92-67-1

2 Benzidine 92-87-5

3 4-chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2

4 2-naphthylamine 91-59-8

5 o-Aminoazotoluene 97-56-3

6 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene 99-55-8

7 4-chloroaniline 106-47-8

8 2,4-diaminoanisole 615-05-4

9 4,4′-diaminodiphenylmethane 101-77-9

10 3,3′-dichlorobenzidine 91-94-1

11 3,3′-dimethoxybenzidine 119-90-4

12 3,3′-dimethylbenzidine 119-93-7

13 3,3′-dimethyl-4,4’diaminodiphenylmethane 838-88-0
 14 4-cresidine 120-71-8

15 4,4′-methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline) 101-14-4

16 4,4′-oxydianiline 101-80-4

17 4,4′-thiodianiline 139-65-1

18 2-aminotoluene 95-53-4

19 2,4-diaminotoluene 95-80-7

20 2,4,5-trimethylaniline 137-17-7

21 2-methoxyaniline 90-04-0

22 4-aminoazobenzene 60-09-3

23 2,4-Xylidine 60-09-3

24 2,6-Xylidine 87-62-7

25 5-Chloro-2-methylaniline 95-79-4

26 p-Phenylenediamine 106-50-3

27 N,N-Dimethylaniline 121-69-7

28 Aniline 62-53-3

In everyday life, we have to be in contact with a lot of chemicals, be it in

our food, in our clothes, or even in the air. We should never ignore those
precautions provided for us, in order to keep us save, healthy, happy,
and manage to use the chemicals around us wisely, since overexposure
to hazards chemicals can lead to many signs of health problems by
overexposure.

Printing is defined as localized dyeing. To achieve this printing

auxiliaries are essential which enables a processing operation in
printing to be carried out more effectively. Printing auxiliaries include
textile chemical thickener, binding agent, cross linking agent, emulsifier,
fixing agent, dispersing agent, defoamers etc.

The digital printing of textiles include fabric preparation, pre-treatment,

inkjet printing with ink, print-head and machine parameters, print fixing
and fastness improvement which all play a decisive role in the printing
process.

Product Name Short Description Description

DIGIPRINT-458 Pretreatment It is a coating agent to be applied in

auxiliary for digital the pre-treatment process before
printing Ink-Jet printing specially for cotton
and viscose.

DIGIPRINT-773 Pretreatment It is applied in pre-treatment process

auxiliary for digital before Ink-Jet printing.
printing

SARASOL-1101 Pre-treatment for A pre-treatment chemical which is

Digital Printing applied by padding process before
Ink-Jet printing on various
substrates.

SARASOL-763 Pre-treatment for A high viscosity thickening agent

Digital Printing of which is applied in pre-treatment
Viscose process of Ink-Jet printing especially
developed for Viscose fabrics.

SARASOL-CL Pre-treatment for A high viscosity thickening agent

Digital Printing of which is applied in pre-treatment
cellulose process of Ink-Jet printing for
cellulosic's fabrics.

SARASOL-MB Pre-treatment for A concentrated and economical

Digital Printing of thickening agent which is applied in
Polyester the pre-treatment padding process
before Ink-Jet printing on polyamide
and polyester substrates.

Mild Oxidising Agent

Product Name Short Description Description
 SUPER R SALT Mild oxidising A mild oxidizing agent used during
agent reactive dyeing and printing to
protect the shade from reducing
atmosphere during steaming.

Other
Product Name Short Description Description

CELLBIND-213 Pigment printing It gives very good brightness and feel

binder to the printed fabrics. It increases the
resistance to abrasion and imparts
very good wash and rubbing fastness.

CROSSPRINT- Crosslinking agent Crossprint-CL is a eco-friendly

CL for pigment printing crosslinking agent for pigment
printing. It is effective for prints taken
on knitted, cellulosic fabrics,
polyester / cotton, polyester / viscose
and polyamides. Crossprint-CL to a
pigment paste also enhances its
fastness properties

CROSSPRINT- Crosslinking agent Crossprint-CL (Conc) is a eco-friendly

CL (CONC) for pigment printing crosslinking agent for pigment
printing. It is effective for prints taken
on knitted, cellulosic fabrics,
polyester / cotton, polyester / viscose
and polyamides. Crossprint-CL (Conc)
to a pigment paste also enhances its
fastness properties

FABPRINT-PES Thickener for Fabprint-PES is a thickener for

disperse printing on disperse printing on polyester fabric.
polyester fabric Fabprint-PES is easy in handling and
produces lump free pastes. It imparts
very good colour yield with sharpness.

NONFORMAL- Formaldehyde Free A formaldehyde free and APEO free

XL Cross-linking for cross linking agent for pigment
Pigment Printing printing
REATHICK-919 Sodium alginate It is a sodium alginate substitute for
substitute reactive dyes printing on cellulosic
and viscose substrates.

REATHICK-PDR Sodium alginate Reathick-PDR is a sodium alginate

substitute for substitute for Reactive printing on
Reactive printing on cellulosic substrates. Reathick-PDR
cellulosic substrates exhibit prints with high brightness,
high brilliance and high permeability.

REDUCIT-ZS Discharge Printing A highly effective discharging agent

for polyester, polyamide and other
synthetic fabrics

SARAPRINT-AC Melamine A melamine formaldehyde based resin

Formaldehyde used for finishing of interlining fabrics
based resin to impart a durable stiff handle.

SYNTHICK Concentrated It disperses readily in water. It can be

P-328 thickener for pigment used as thickener for preparation of
printing coating recipe.

TEXPRINT-963 Coating agent for It gives sharp and even prints with
inkjet printing on improved colour value.
polyamide

TEXPRINT-PP Concentrated Texprint-PP imparts soft and dry

silicone softener for handle to the fabrics. It does not
pigment printing impair fastness properties of pigment
printed fabrics.