instructables

Desktop Fidget Spinner

by seamster

Fidget spinners are all the rage these days, regularly
touted as providing a physical outlet for antsy bored
energy.
By busying the hands with a simple kinetic toy, a
person is able to apply a higher degree of focus to
mental tasks, such as in school or the workplace.
size of a fidget spinner has a direct correlation to the
fidgeter's capacity to focus.
With this irrefutable scientific evidence in mind, I
designed this wooden propeller fidget spinner. It is for
people who are ready to take their focusing ability to
the highest altitude!

In a recent peer-reviewed study it was found that the

Step 1: But Wait . .

This is not just a desktop fidget spinner . . .

With optional leather straps it becomes an arm-mountable fidget spinner, for when you need to fidget spin on-the-
go.

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Step 2: There's More . .

This is not just a desktop and/or arm-mountable fidget spinner . . .

With optional screw anchors it's a wall-mountable fidget spinner too, for when you need to fidget spin on-the-stay.

Ready? Let's make this!

Step 3: Piece of Ash

I started with a 36-inch piece of ash wood.

This was ripped into two pieces with a table saw.

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Step 4: Glue Up

The two pieces were glued together using plenty of wood glue and several clamps.

Step 5: Lay Out Propeller Shape

The glued-up wood blank was 2 inches thick, and 3 1/2 inches wide.

I laid out a propeller-like shape on stiff paper and cut it out. The paper pattern was used to transfer the propeller
shape onto the wood blank.

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Step 6: Drill Center Hole

The propeller spins on a stack of skateboard bearings, mounted on a 5/16" bolt. A hole to house the bearings was
drilled using a 7/8" (22mm) forstner bit on a drill press.

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Step 7: Band Saw

Tapered lines were drawn onto the wood blank along cutting the shapes on the face-side of the wood
the sides from the middle section down to 1/2", blank.
centered on either end. These wedges shapes were
then cut off using a band saw. After all cuts were completed, the tape was removed
to reveal a rough propeller shape in the wood.
These wedge shapes where then taped back into
place with masking tape to provide support while

Step 8: Progress Photos

Here is the propeller shape after initial band sawing.

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Step 9: Mark Areas to Remove on Prop Blades

Areas to be removed on the propeller blades were indicated with a marker.

The faces of each blade were marked in the same exact way, following the side tapers as shown.

Step 10: More Band Sawing

The marked areas were carefully nibbled away using the band saw. The blade guide is raised and the blade is
used to basically carve the work piece.

Since the blade is working mostly unsupported, you must keep the wood firmly in contact with the table behind the
blade. Work slowly and let the blade do the work, being mindful to not apply any lateral pressure on the blade, and
only remove small amounts of wood at a time.

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Step 11: Progress Photos

Here is the propeller after further roughing out the shape on the band saw.

Step 12: Refine Shape With Belt Sander

The shape of the propeller blade is refined with 36 grit sandpaper on a belt sander. The propeller is held securely
in a vise to do this.

This is a process that requires constant feeling of the wood to remove high spots, and continually working toward a
shape you are happy with. I indicated high spots with a marker, removed those by sanding, and then repeated this
over and over.

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Step 13: Refine Further With Orbital Sander

The shape was refined further using an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper.

It's important to remove all sanding grooves from the previous grit before progressing to the next higher grit paper.

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Step 14: Round Over Blade Edges

As I was working toward higher grit sandpapers, somewhere around 100 grit I rounded off the blade edges.

I marked with a pencil the areas to remove, and sanded away the wood between the marks. Then I carefully
beveled any remaining angular edges until I had a uniformly rounded shape I was happy with.

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Step 15: Progress Photos

Here is the basic propeller shape completed.

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Step 16: Route Area for Aluminum Plate

I wanted to have an aluminum face plate on the front of the propeller. An area was routed about 3/16" deep to
receive this plate.

Step 17: Aluminum Face Plate

A piece of scrap aluminum was measured, marked, cut out, and sanded smooth.

Holes were drilled for the center bolt as well as for the screws that will hold it to the propeller.

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 1
1

1. Metal was cut out using a portable metal band saw mounted in a small 1. Edges sanded smooth with a disc sander.
table. See my previous instructable for how I built this.

Step 18: Stain

The propeller was stained with a dark oil-based stain and allowed to dry for a couple of days.

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Step 19: Finishing Touches

The propeller tips were masked off and spray painted with red, then masked off again to receive a black stripe.

When dry, the paint was lightly hand sanded with 400 grit sandpaper to give a slight weathered look.

After this the entire propeller received several light coats of semi-gloss spray lacquer.

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Step 20: Add Faceplate

The aluminum faceplate was screwed in place into holes pre-drilled into the wood.

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Step 21: Build Base

A base was made using another piece of ash.

This was cut out using a band saw, and then the edges were rounded over with a router.

The center hole for the bolt was drilled used a drill press, and areas for keyhole screw anchors were added to
allow this to be mounted on a wall.

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Step 22: Completed Base

The base was painted and finished in the same method as the propeller.

A 5/16" bolt as well as the keyhole screw hangers were attached to the base at this point.

Step 23: Attach Propeller

A pair of washers were placed on the bolt, followed by six skateboard bearings, the propeller itself, another
washer, and a nylon-insert lock nut.

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Step 24: Options for Use

There are several options for use:

Option 1: Affix some foam pads for basic desktop usage

Option 2: Attach leather straps for arm-mounted usage

Option 3: Mount to wall with screws for wall-mounted usage

Step 25: Spin Away

Thank you for reading, and happy spinning!

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This is beautiful, Sam! I love ash, I need to use it in more project.
I think this comment will automaticlly be removed when you publish :)

Thanks mike!

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