FIVE NEW GUMBOS • MAKE-AHEAD FAT TUESDAY LUNCH • BAKED OYSTERS

Louisiana
2020 Authentic Cajun & Creole Cuisine
Mardi
Gras
issue

Jan/Feb 2020 vol 23, issue 1

CELEBRATE WITH OUR BEST-EVER

Kıng Cakes
$5.99US $6.99CAN
02

0 74808 01055 4
DISPLAY UNTIL FEBRUARY 11, 2020 PAGE 45
 contents
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | VOLUME 23, ISSUE 1

25

first, you make a

roux.
Spillin’ the Beans 25 In Season 3 Foodways
Winter Citrus Cajun Mardi Gras
23 Light & Fresh
Versatile Veggie 29 Afield & Afloat 33 Chef’s Table
The Lean Days of Lent Acadiana Comfort
by Chef John D. Folse

3 louisianacookin.com
 entrées
the main course
45
377 Make-Ahead Fat Tuesday Lunch
A parade-ready menu for Mardi Gras parties

45 King Cake Magic

Three stunning king cakes for Carnival season

5 5 Ways with Gumbo

New takes on the Bayou State’s favorite dish

5 97 Culinary Royalty
Local chef wins crown at seafood competitions

63 Louisiana Rice Bowls

Four comforting recipes featuring Louisiana rice

77 Louisiana’s Best King Cakes

Bayou State bakeries with exceptional king cakes

lagniappe
a little something extra

63 797 Sweets
8
Divine Dessert

Quick & Easy

Sheet Pan Shrimp

83 Local Pantry
Jambalaya Girl
by Nora McGunnigle

87 7By the Book

The New Orleans Kitchen
by Paul A. Greenberg

89 Cooking with Chefs to Watch

Love for Local

937 Swizzle Stick

Carnival Color
by Kirk Estopinal

95 Index & Resources

977 Lagniappe
5 louisianacookin.com
 ADVERTISING AS SEEN IN
OUR BOOK
Growing
≈UpΔ
Cajun

≈ MUFFULETTAS Δ
Not your average deli meat sandwich—layers of meat, cheese, and olives are served up on fresh bread to create this instant favorite.

makes 8

2 (9-inch) round loaves muffuletta
bread*, halved crosswise
½ pound thinly sliced salami
½ pound thinly sliced capicola
½ pound thinly sliced mortadella
½ pound thinly sliced soppressata
½ pound thinly sliced provolone
5 cups prepared olive salad
1⁄4 teaspoon Slap Ya Mama Low
Sodium Cajun Seasoning
Garnish: Slap Ya Mama Green Pepper
Sauce
1. On bottom half of each bread loaf,
layer salami, capicola, mortadella,
soppressata, and provolone.
2. Stir together olive salad and Slap Ya
Mama Low Sodium Cajun Seasoning.
Spoon over cheese. Cover with top half
of loaf. Garnish with a few dashes of
G A LIT TLE
A DDI N
Slap Ya Mama Green Pepper Sauce, if
desired.
3. Slice sandwiches into quarters.
(Muffulettas may be made up to 3 hours
ahead; wrap securely, and refrigerate
until ready to serve.)
*We used Leidenheimer Muffuletta Bread.

Spice to Life
≈ S I N C E 2 00 1 Δ

slapyamama.com | 800.485.5217 #slapyamama

S
SlapYaMamaVideos
 January/February 2020 Volume 23, Issue 1

EDITORIAL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Daniel Schumacher

Caitlin Watzke
MANAGING EDITOR GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother Deanna Rippy Gardner
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg ART DIRECTOR Nancy Heard
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Kirk Estopinal, John D. Folse, Paul A. Greenberg, SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
Nora McGunnigle ST YLISTS
Caroline Blum, Courtni Bodiford,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY
Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Mac Jamieson Melissa Smith
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER
John O’Hagan TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
PHOTOGRAPHERS FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Nicole Du Bois, Laura Crandall, Kathleen Kanen,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele Tricia Manzanero, Vanessa Rocchio,
Elizabeth Stringer, Taylor Franklin Wann
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST/RECIPE DEVELOPER
Delisa McDaniel Anita Simpson Spain
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore CONTRIBUTING RECIPE DEVELOPER
Melissa Gray

CHEFS TO WATCH ADVISORY BOARD

Kristen Essig, Holly Goetting, Jeffrey Hansell,
Colt Patin, Nathan Richard

FOUNDERS Romney K. and Charley Richard

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Vicky Lewis Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL
Alex Kolar

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

ACCOUNT DIRECTORS MARKETING DIRECTOR Megan McIllwain Ragland

Katie Guasco [LA, MS, AR, TX] MARKETING COORDINATOR Gretchen Norris
Hagan Media/Katie Hagan [AL, FL, TN] ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
Kathy Gross [FL, GA, KY, MD, NC, SC, VA, DC, WV] Kimberly Lewis
ACCOUNT MANAGER Mary-Evelyn Dalton GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rachel Collins
DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan
For assistance with advertising, please call 888.411.8995.
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL BRAND PARTNERSHIPS
Kevin Masse

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman

EVP/CFO Mary P. Cummings VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT

EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING Brooke Michael Bell
Greg Baugh VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper
VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE

326 S. Broad St. Louisiana Cookin’, P.O. Box 6201
New Orleans, LA 70119 Harlan, IA 51593
Phone: 888.411.8995 Manage My Subscription: hoffmanmedia.com/ecare
Phone: 877.538.8362
louisianacookin.com
Louisiana Cookin’ ISSN 1096-4134 is published bimonthly by Hoffman Media, 1900 International Park Drive, Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243, 888.411.8995. Reproduction in part or in whole
is strictly prohibited without the written consent of Hoffman Media. Louisiana Cookin’ is a registered trademark of Hoffman Media. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: For the United States, $25
per year, 6 issues; add $10 for postage in Canada; add $20 elsewhere. Single issues $5.99 available at newsstands and bookstores. Periodical Postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and
additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES to Louisiana Cookin’, P.O. Box 6201, Harlan, IA 51593.
©2019 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.
E D I TO R’S
LETTER

I SHOULD SAY HERE that I

did not grow up eating king cake.
In my time in Louisiana, though,
I feel like I’ve made up for my
comparative lack of years with
boundless enthusiasm. In years past,
my wife, Christa, and I would chart
out the weeks from the Feast of the
Epiphany through Mardi Gras day
to see how many cakes we could
reasonably expect to try. At work,
our diligent managing editor, Caitlin,
and I would do the same, cross-
checking our personal lists to avoid
overlap. This Carnival season isn’t quite so long as last year’s, but we still
have quite a bit of time to indulge (and, despite our best efforts, overindulge)
in this ultimate Louisiana treat.
Like many folks we’ve spoken with, we enjoy making a few king cakes
at home throughout the season. To make that effort a little easier and more
delicious, we present to you a foolproof king cake dough with three fillings
(starting on page 45). So, whether you’re a traditionalist and go for the
Cinnamon-Cream Cheese King Cake or want to spice it up with Salted
Caramel and Chocolate or Nectar Cream versions, you and your family and
friends will be more than pleased.
As always, we wish you a happy and safe Carnival season, filled with as
much king cake as you care to enjoy. 

EDITOR’S PICKS

KING CAKES

LEVEE BAKING CO.

New Orleans
leveebakingco.com

LILAH’S BAKERY ON THE COVER

Shreveport
lilahsdeli.com Cinnamon-Cream Cheese King Cake
GIRLS GONE VEGAN (recipe on page 49)
New Orleans photography by jim bathie
girlsgonevegannola.com styling by sidney bragiel
recipe development by laura crandall
food styling by elizabeth stringer
 SPILLIN’
T H E B E AN S PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND

NEW & IRRESISTIBLE

THE VINTAGE BATON ROUGE
The second location for The Vintage
was set to open this past fall in
downtown Baton Rouge, in the space
that formerly housed Magpie Café on
the corner of Third and Laurel Streets.
Like its sister location in New Orleans,
the Red Stick location will serve
craft coffee and gourmet beignets, in
addition to the breakfast and lunch
menus and selection of small plates
and wine.

ACORN NEW ORLEANS

The new Louisiana Children’s Museum opened its doors in New Orleans
City Park last summer, and in addition to its exhibits, it is also home to
a restaurant run by Dickie Brennan & Co. Overlooking City Park’s Little
Lake, Acorn uses local ingredients for its menu of updated favorites and
children’s dishes, like Mac and Cheese. The environmentally conscious
café also has a play kitchen for kids. acornnola.com

THE SAZERAC HOUSE NEW ORLEANS

This interactive museum, event space, and small
production facility opened in October at the corner
of Canal and Magazine Streets in New Orleans.
Guests can take a self-guided tour of exhibits such
as the Sazerac Rye Distillery Exhibit and The Power
of the Dash, where visitors can view production and
bottling of Peychaud’s Bitters. There are also tasting
rooms and a retail shop with cocktail kits, spirits,
apparel, and more. sazerachouse.com

11 louisianacookin.com
JUICY TIDBITS
King Cake Snob
Traditional versus filled. Haydel’s
or Gambino’s. We all have our
favorite king cakes, and for the fifth
year running, you can make your
voice heard in the King Cake Snob
Ranking Competition. During the
2018 season, the website received
almost 4,000 reviews for 525 cakes
at 150 bakeries. That’s a lot of cake.
kingcakesnob.com

Top Box Foods

New Orleans and Baton Rouge
residents now have easier (and
cheaper) access to fresh foods
because of Top Box. This nonprofit
STREETSIDE MARKET HAMMOND
packages and distributes boxes
This food hall opened in September in the old Ford building in downtown
of fresh groceries to community
Hammond. The market is home to a variety of food vendors offering
centers around both cities. While
the organization is designed to help locally and globally inspired options in a traditional restaurant setting.
residents in areas where fresh food Menu choices include poké, Chinese rice and noodle bowls from John
access is limited, anyone can join. Wong of Trey Yuen restaurant, sushi, pizza, sandwiches, and more.
topboxfoods.com Additionally, those who have been missing Morning Call beignets and
coffee can now find them at Streetside. facebook.com/streetsidemrkt
Luna Bar & Grill
Downtown Lake Charles restaurant
and live music venue Luna Bar & ADVERTISING
Grill has announced plans to expand
to Lafayette this spring. Luna’s menu
combines California and Louisiana
flavors and techniques to come up
with dishes like Crawfish Bread, the
Rémoulade Trio (with shrimp, crab,
and crawfish), and lots of crispy fried
vegetables. lunabarandgrill.com

The New Orleans Chef’s Table

Back in 2013, we introduced you to
Lorin Gaudin’s The New Orleans Chef ’s
Table, and we are excited that it’s been
THE SCOOP from Camellia Brand
updated to reflect some changes to the
FOR BETTER-TASTING BEANS
Crescent City’s dining scene. A few
Make batches of broth or stock and freeze. Use it in place of water when
new notable recipes include Oysters
Goodenough from Carrollton Market you cook beans; you’ll save time & money and end up with more
and New Orleans Style Barbecued flavorful beans.
Shrimp from Heard Dat Kitchen. For tasty beans, visit camelliabrand.com.

13 louisianacookin.com
PRODUCT PICK
LEISUREMANN’S
COCKTAIL MIXES
With parade season upon us,
having a good, portable cocktail is
key. Lafayette-made Leisuremann’s
Cocktail Mixes take the guesswork
out of craft cocktails. All you need
is water, your spirit of choice, and
ice, and you’re set. Options include
classics like the Bloody Mary, Old
Fashioned, and Cosmopolitan, as
well as The Gold Rush, a sweet-tart
cocktail mix that includes flecks of
24-carat gold (and pairs well with
bourbon or gin). leisuremanns.com

COCHON CANNERY SHREVEPORT

Dustie and Denise Latiolais opened Cochon Cannery in 2018 in Breaux
Bridge, offering a line of bacon- and pork-centric products such as
Bacon Jam and Apple Bacon Rub. This year, the Latiolaises will be
moving the business north to Shreveport. They will host pop-ups at
Great Raft Brewing until they open a new location. During Carnival
season, they will once again sell their sweet-meets-savory King Cake Pork
Skins, which are dusted with purple, green, and gold cinnamon sugar.
cochoncannery.com

JUNIOR’S ON HARRISON NEW ORLEANS

Billed as “a strangely familiar neighborhood
joint,” Junior’s on Harrison is the latest concept
from restaurateurs Nick Hufft and Lon
Marchand, owners of Curbside Burgers and
The Overpass Merchant in Baton Rouge and
mobile creamery Gail’s Fine Ice Cream. Nestled
along Harrison Avenue in Lakeview, Chef
Jacob Cureton’s menu at Junior’s will focus on
modern American cuisine, with moderately
priced dishes such as Shrimp + Gulf Fish
Ceviche (pictured here) and Blue Crab + Corn
Fritters. juniorsonharrison.com

15 louisianacookin.com
 CHEF CHAT

Following a 14-year career in Emeril Lagasse’s New

Orleans restaurants, Chef Will Avelar departed Meril
last year to run Metairie-based Mawí Tortillas with
his father, Carlos Wilfredo Avelar, who took over the
business a few years ago. As the only tortilla bakery in
New Orleans, Mawí uses its own corn masa blend to
produce more than 5,000 pounds of fresh, authentic
tortillas each month for retail and wholesale customers.
We caught up with Will to find out more about becoming
a business owner and what makes Mawí’s tortillas unique.

What drew you and your father to the tortilla
business? It kind of fell in our laps. When I was at Meril,
before we opened up, we were looking for a really good
tortilla. I stumbled upon this while dropping my kids off
at school one morning. I passed by and ordered a couple
pounds for some samples. We loved them so much,
we knew when Meril opened that this was going to be
our tortilla. A year or so later, the owners of the bakery
approached us and asked if we wanted to buy the business
from them.
What makes a good tortilla?
I think what makes us stand out is that we bake fresh
tortillas every day. When you have a fresh tortilla, it’s
like having a fresh loaf of bread. You can’t compare it to
something that’s been sitting on the shelf. This is what
we do every day—we bake for the day. And whatever
we don’t sell, we use to make tostadas and chips, but the
next day, we start with a fresh batch.
Where can we find your tortillas around town?
You can only [buy] them at our retail location in
Metairie and our restaurant partnerships. Our biggest
supporters are Johnny Sanchez, La Carreta, Habaneros,
Araña, Nolé, Otra Vez, and Pagoda Café. Felipe’s is one
of our biggest accounts as well.
How has your experience in the restaurant industry
influenced your work at Mawí? I think consistency is
one of the biggest keys to being successful. That’s what
really stood out for me in my time spent in that industry,
and now, I’m definitely applying it in this industry.
You’ve also been doing some pop-ups in New
Orleans. Tell us about those.
Chefs invite me to make a dinner or tasting with them,
or I’ll get invited to different events in town. [I’ll make
dishes] using the tortillas, and I’m doing pupusas as well
because my dad’s background is Salvadoran.

17 louisianacookin.com
 UPCOMING EVENTS
BAL MASQUÉ
JANUARY 18, NEW ORLEANS
The Link Stryjewski Foundation’s
formal masquerade ball and special
chef dinner will delight the senses. In
addition to a star-studded lineup of
locally and nationally renowned chefs
(including Nina Compton of Compère
Lapin in New Orleans and John
Currence of City Grocery in Oxford,
Mississippi), Bal Masqué offers an
impressive musical program, which has
included Caribbean- and Louisiana-
influenced artists such as Ram from
Port-au-Prince, Haiti.
balmasque.linkstryjewski.org
KREWE OF HARAMBEE
PARADE
JANUARY 20, SHREVEPORT
Shreveport’s first African American
Mardi Gras krewe began parading
20 years ago and remains the city’s
kickoff to Carnival. Held each
year on Martin Luther King Jr.
Day in Downtown Shreveport, the
Krewe of Harambee (translated
from Swahili as “let’s pull together”)
offers a joyous start to the season.
Throughout the rest of the year, the
krewe organizes and participates
in community events throughout KING CAKE FESTIVAL
the Shreveport-Bossier area. JANUARY 26, NEW ORLEANS
kreweofharambee.net Last year, two dozen king
cake bakeries battled it out in
Champions Square for top honors
in five different categories at
this totally Louisiana festival
benefitting the Ochsner Hospital
for Children and its pediatric
programs. The event is free and
open to the public, but tasting
tickets and VIP packages are
available for purchase. Live music,
a kids’ zone, and a 1-mile fun
run round out the day’s activities.
kingcakefestival.org
19 louisianacookin.com
CALENDAR
JANUARY
1 Allstate Sugar Bowl; New Orleans
allstatesugarbowl.org
6 Mardi Gras Twelfth Night
Lake Charles visitlakecharles.org
6 Krewe de Jeanne d’Arc
New Orleans joanofarcparade.com
6 Phunny Phorty Phellows
New Orleans phunnyphortyphellows.com
9–11 Louisiana Fur & Wildlife
Festival; Cameron
lafurandwildlifefestival.com
17–19 Louisiana Marathon; Baton
Rouge thelouisianamarathon.com
25 Annual Gumbo Cook-Off
Opelousas cajuntravel.com
17–18 Ag Expo; West Monroe
agexpo.org
FEBRUARY
2 Cajun Groundhog Day; New Iberia
iberiatravel.com
14–16 Family Gras; Metairie
visitjeffersonparish.com
21–25 Eunice Mardi Gras Celebration;
Eunice cajuntravel.com
22 Spanish Town Mardi Gras Parade
Baton Rouge spanishtownmardigras.com
23 Krewe of Highland Parade
Shreveport thekreweofhighland.org
24 Lundi Gras Boucherie; Eunice
cajuntravel.com
24 Mardi Gras Royal Gala;
Lake Charles visitlakecharles.org
25 Mardi Gras; New Orleans
mardigrasneworleans.com
25 Iowa Chicken Run; Iowa
visitlakecharles.org
25 Courir de Mardi Gras & Chicken
Run; Eunice cajuntravel.com
 SEAFOOD & BARBEQUE

Redefined

10423 JEFFERSON HIGHWAY | BATON ROUGE, LA 70809 | 225.372.2674

BRQRESTAURANT.COM #BRQbr
L I G H T & F R ES H

VERSATILE VEGGIE
CAULIFLOWER RICE has been all the rage in recent years as a low-carb rice alternative. Simply cauliflower that
has been broken down into rice-size pieces, it can replace rice in just about any recipe. It’s tender and chewy when
cooked, and it cooks quickly in a little oil or butter on the stove. Cauliflower rice is available fresh and frozen in many
grocery stores, but if yours doesn’t carry it, you can easily make it at home by pulsing cauliflower florets in a food
processor or shredding them on a box grater. Try it in our lightened take on classic red beans and rice.

RED BEANS AND
CAULIFLOWER RICE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Pickled shallots add just the right touch
of acidity to smoky red beans served
with cauliflower rice.
1 pound dried red kidney beans,
sorted and rinsed
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 (12-ounce) package andouille
sausage, cut crosswise into
¼-inch-thick slices
2 cups chopped yellow onion
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped green bell pepper
8 cloves garlic, minced and divided
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 smoked ham hock
3 dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
3 teaspoons Creole seasoning*,
divided
1 cup chopped green onion
2 (12-ounce) packages fresh
cauliflower rice
Pickled Shallots (recipe follows),
to serve
1. In a large bowl, place beans and
water to cover by 2 inches. Let stand
for 8 hours or overnight. Drain.
2. In a large Dutch oven, heat
1 tablespoon oil over medium-high
heat. Add andouille; cook, stirring
frequently, until browned, about
5 minutes. Remove sausage using a
slotted spoon, and let drain on paper
towels. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Reserve drippings in pot.
3. Add yellow onion, celery, bell
pepper, and 6 cloves garlic to pot.
Cook, stirring frequently, until lightly
caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes.
Add beans, broth, ham hock, bay
leaves, thyme, and black pepper.
Bring to a boil; reduce heat to
medium-low, cover, and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until beans
are tender, 50 minutes to 1 hour.
Uncover and bring to a boil;
reduce heat to medium, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until liquid
has thickened, about 1 hour. Add
andouille and 1 teaspoon Creole
seasoning. Discard bay leaves. Using
the back of a wooden spoon, crush
about ¼ cup beans against side of pot,
and stir until mixture looks creamy.
4. In a large skillet, heat remaining
2 tablespoons oil over medium heat.
Add green onion and remaining 2
cloves garlic; cook, stirring frequently,
for 2 minutes. Add cauliflower;
cook, stirring occasionally, until
cauliflower is tender, 5 to 7 minutes.
Stir in remaining 2 teaspoons Creole
seasoning. Serve immediately with
red beans and Pickled Shallots.
*We used Zatarain’s Creole Seasoning.
PICKLED SHALLOTS
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
4 shallots, halved and thinly sliced
crosswise
¾ cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup water
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 clove garlic, smashed
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
1. In a small heatproof bowl or jar,
place shallots.
2. In a medium saucepan, bring
vinegar, ¼ cup water, sugar, salt,
garlic, and red pepper to a boil over
medium-high heat. Remove from
heat; discard garlic. Pour vinegar
mixture over shallots. Let stand for
30 minutes. Use immediately, or
cover and refrigerate for up to
2 weeks.

23 louisianacookin.com
 I N S E ASO N
WINTER CITRUS
photography by nicole du bois | recipe development by tricia manzanero
DURING LOUISIANA’S COLDER MONTHS, winter citrus is at its peak. Oranges, Meyer lemons, grapefruit,
and more are abundant this time of year, and there are countless ways to cook with them. Their tangy juice and
fragrant zest can liven up just about any savory or sweet dish, and these recipes showcase some of our favorite ways to
use fresh Louisiana citrus.
CITRUS COURTBOUILLON
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Meyer lemons and oranges infuse our
red snapper courtbouillon with delicate
citrus flavors.
1½ pounds skinless red snapper, cut
into 1½- to 2-inch pieces
4 teaspoons Cajun seasoning*,
divided
¼ cup unsalted butter
1½ cups finely chopped red onion
¾ cup finely chopped green bell
pepper
¾ cup finely chopped celery
6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
2 cups seafood stock, room
temperature
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 Meyer lemon, cut crosswise
into ¼-inch-thick rounds, seeds
removed
1 medium navel orange, peeled and
chopped (about ½ cup)
¼ cup dry sherry
1 teaspoon orange blossom honey
Kosher salt and ground black pepper,
to taste
Hot cooked rice, to serve
25 louisianacookin.com
Citrus Relish (recipe follows), to
serve
Garnish: fresh thyme leaves
1. In a large bowl, toss together fish
and 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning.
Cover and refrigerate.
2. In a large Dutch oven, heat butter
over medium-high heat. Add onion,
bell pepper, celery, and garlic; cook,
stirring frequently, until softened,
4 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle flour onto
vegetables; cook, stirring constantly,
for 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium.
Add tomato paste; cook, stirring
frequently and scraping bottom of
pot, until paste is slightly caramelized
and darkens in color, 7 to 10 minutes.
3. Add thyme, bay leaf, and remaining
3 teaspoons Cajun seasoning to pot.
Gradually stir in stock, scraping
browned bits from bottom of pot
with a wooden spoon. Add tomatoes,
lemon, and orange; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to medium-low, and
simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Add fish and sherry to pot;
simmer until fish flakes easily, about
15 minutes. Add honey; season to
taste with salt and black pepper.
Discard bay leaf. Serve immediately
with rice and Citrus Relish. Garnish
with thyme, if desired.
*We used Slap Ya Mama Cajun
Seasoning. Different Cajun seasoning
blends vary in salt content; be sure to
gradually season as desired and taste as
you go.
CITRUS RELISH
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon lime zest
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
¾ teaspoon Meyer lemon zest
½ teaspoon orange blossom honey
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 navel oranges (about 2 pounds)
2 Meyer lemons (about ½ pound)
2 tablespoons finely chopped red
onion
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together
oil, lime zest and juice, lemon zest,
honey, and salt.
2. Using a sharp knife, remove peel
and white pith from oranges and
lemons. Carefully cut between the
membranes to release sections, and
roughly chop; toss with oil mixture
and onion until well combined.
 CHOOSING & STORING
Choose: Choose citrus fruits
that feel firm and heavy for their
size. This indicates that the fruit
is juicy. Citrus should not have
blemishes or soft areas.
CITRUS
Store: Keep citrus in a cool, dry
place, or store in your refrigerator
crisper drawer for 2 to 3 weeks.
Fruit will be juicier if brought to
room temperature before eating.
ROASTED CITRUS CHICKEN
WITH CREOLE MUSTARD
SAUCE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
The subtle aroma of fresh oranges
complements the tanginess in our
Creole mustard pan sauce.
4 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs
(about 1½ pounds)
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium red onion, peeled and
cut into 1-inch wedges
1 medium orange, cut crosswise
into ¼-inch-thick rounds, seeds
removed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
4 cloves garlic, minced
⅔ cup apple cider vinegar
¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth
27 louisianacookin.com
¼ cup fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon Creole mustard
½ cup pitted green olives, halved
1½ teaspoons orange blossom honey
¾ teaspoon Cajun seasoning*
½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
½ teaspoon chopped fresh
rosemary
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Sprinkle
chicken with salt and pepper; let
stand at room temperature for
30 minutes. Pat dry.
2. In a 12-inch enamel-coated cast-
iron braiser, heat oil over medium-
high heat. Add chicken, skin side
down, and cook until browned, about
5 minutes. Turn chicken, and cook
until browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add
onion, orange, thyme sprigs, and
rosemary sprigs, stirring to coat in
chicken drippings; spread in an even
layer on bottom of skillet. Arrange
chicken on top, skin side up.
3. Bake until
chicken is cooked
through, 8 to 10 minutes.
Transfer chicken mixture to a serving
plate, reserving drippings in skillet.
Keep warm.
4. Add garlic to skillet; cook over
medium heat until softened and
fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add vinegar;
cook until reduced by half, about
5 minutes. Add broth, orange juice,
and mustard; bring to a boil, and
cook until reduced to ½ cup, 8 to
12 minutes. Stir in olives, honey,
Cajun seasoning, chopped thyme, and
chopped rosemary. Spoon sauce over
chicken mixture, or return chicken
mixture to pan, and coat with sauce.
Serve immediately.
*We used Slap Ya Mama Cajun
Seasoning.
CITRUS-INFUSED CORPSE
REVIVER #2
MAKES 1 SERVING

Grapefruit and oranges add a burst

of brightness to the infused gin in this
cocktail.

Herbsaint, to rinse glasses

Ice cubes
1 ounce Grapefruit-Orange Gin
(recipe follows)
1 ounce Cointreau
1 ounce Lillet Blanc
1 ounce fresh lemon juice
¼ ounce simple syrup (optional)
Garnish: citrus peel

1. Rinse a chilled coupe glass with

Herbsaint, swirling to coat bottom
and sides; pour out any excess.
2. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice; add
Grapefruit-Orange Gin, Cointreau,
Lillet, lemon juice, and simple
syrup (if using); shake vigorously to
combine. Strain mixture into prepared
glass. Garnish with citrus peel, if
desired.

GRAPEFRUIT-ORANGE GIN
MAKES 2 CUPS

½ large grapefruit
½ medium orange
2 cups gin

1. Using a vegetable peeler, carefully

remove grapefruit and orange peels
in long strips. Using a small, sharp
knife, remove white pith from peels.
Reserve fruit for another use.
2. Place peels in a 24-ounce glass jar;
add gin, and cover tightly. Let stand at
room temperature for at least 3 days.
Strain, and store in an airtight glass jar
or container.

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 28

AF I E L D & AF LOAT
THE LEAN DAYS
OF LENT
by chef john d. folse
GROWING UP in
St. James Parish in the
1950s, my siblings and
I were not aware of the
festivities of Mardi Gras
55 miles downriver in
New Orleans. All we
knew was that when
Ash Wednesday rolled
around, my mother had
all eight of us lined up at the altar rail to get ashes. Thus
began the holiest season of the year, when the church
was draped in purple cloth to represent mourning and
our Friday evenings were spent praying the Way of
the Cross and attending adoration, which was truly a
sacrifice for young boys who wanted to be in the swamp.
From the Sunday pulpit, Father Lester Schexnayder
emphasized Lent as a time of preparation, a kind of
“spiritual spring cleaning.” We understood that meant
preparing the heart and soul for Easter, but for us, it also
meant preparing for the seasons ahead. It was time to
repair river shrimp boxes and order cotton seed cake
we’d use to catch Mississippi River shrimp in the weeks
ahead.
We mended crawfish nets and painted the mirliton
trellises. We picked Papere’s strawberries and helped
plant the spring garden, which was always done during
Holy Week but never on Good Friday. Our favorite tasks
by far were collecting onion peels, clipping dandelions,
and saving the water from boiled beets to dye the
Chef John D. Folse is an entrepreneur with interests ranging from restaurant development to food manufacturing, catering to culinary education.
Similar recipes can be found in Hooks, Lies & Alibis (Chef John Folse & Company).
29 louisianacookin.com
prettiest Easter eggs on River Road.
When Lent rolled around, we were required to fast
from meat on Fridays. Like most families in our area, we
lived off the land and ate what the swamp floor provided.
Our refrigerator was stocked with an assortment of
feathers, fins, and furs. During the early days of Lent,
the crawfish and river shrimp were not yet running and
the Mississippi River water was still too chilly to string
trotlines. As it happened, St. James Parish was blessed
with flocks of poule d’eau, or “water chicken,” during
the first months of the year. Now, in a community that
was 99 percent monetarily challenged, poule d’eau were
plentiful and so were the mouths needing to be fed.
Providentially, the local priests classified poule d’eau as
fish (after all, they were fish-eating birds) and gave all
of us a dispensation so we could eat poule d’eau stew on
meatless Fridays. I guess, if “you are what you eat,” then
poule d’eau truly is fish!
I’ve read that during the Middle Ages, cheese,
butter, eggs, and fats were also prohibited during Lent.
St. Thomas Aquinas explained that these items “afford
greater pleasure as food [than fish].” Obviously, the
angelic theologian never tasted Louisiana seafood gumbo
or sauce piquante!
Because you might feel the same about poule d’eau,
I’ve provided a great Snapper King Creole recipe to help
in your abstinence from meat this season. You know, it
really doesn’t seem that we Louisianans sacrifice much by
substituting meat with seafood on fast days, but I guess,
if it works for the church, it works for me, too!
SNAPPER KING CREOLE
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef John D. Folse
One of my favorite ways to prepare red
snapper is whole, stuffed, and baked in
the oven!
½ cup unsalted butter
½ cup minced onion
½ cup minced celery
½ cup minced bell pepper
¼ cup minced garlic
½ cup chopped green onion
½ pound crawfish tails
½ pound lump crabmeat, picked
free of shell
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Creole seasoning, to taste
1½ cups Italian seasoned bread
crumbs
1 (6- to 8-pound) whole red
snapper, cleaned and rinsed
Kosher salt, ground black pepper, and
granulated garlic, to taste
1 tablespoon paprika
Creole Sauce (recipe follows)
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley,
lemon wedges
1. Preheat oven to 350°.
2. In a large saucepan, melt butter
over medium-high heat. Add minced
onion, celery, bell pepper, and minced
garlic; cook until vegetables are
softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add green
onion, and cook until softened. Add
crawfish and crab, and cook until
heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir
in lemon juice. Season to taste with
Creole seasoning, and add just
enough bread crumbs to
achieve a moist stuffing consistency.
Set aside.
3. Place fish in a large roasting pan,
and season with salt, black pepper,
and granulated garlic. Stuff fish cavity
with onion mixture, and sprinkle with
paprika. Pour Creole Sauce over fish.
4. Bake until an instant-read
thermometer inserted in stuffing
registers 130° and fish flakes easily,
1 to 1½ hours.
5. Using 2 large spatulas, transfer
fish to a large serving platter. Reserve
sauce from roasting pan. Using a
boning knife, slowly remove fillet
from top of fish; discard any bones.
Remove fillet from bottom of fish.
Cut fillets into 4 to 6 servings. Divide
fish among serving plates, and top
with reserved sauce. Garnish with
parsley and lemon, if desired.
Note: You may also serve fish with rice
or pasta.
CREOLE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 9 CUPS
½ cup olive oil
1 cup minced onion
1 cup minced celery
1 cup minced red bell pepper
½ cup thinly sliced garlic
1 cup sliced button mushrooms
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (10-ounce) can diced tomatoes
with green chiles
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 bay leaves
¾ cup pinot noir or other dry red
wine
½ pound crawfish tails, drained
½ pound lump crabmeat, picked
free of shell
Kosher salt and cayenne pepper,
to taste
1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil
over medium-high heat. Add onion,
celery, bell pepper, and garlic; cook
until vegetables are softened, 3 to
5 minutes. Add mushrooms, and
cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in all
diced tomatoes, tomato sauce,
oregano, basil, bay leaves, and
wine. Bring to a boil over high heat;
reduce heat, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add crawfish and crab, and cook,
stirring gently, until heated through,
2 to 3 minutes. Season to taste with
salt and cayenne.
 LO U I S IANA
FO O D WAYS

CAJUN
MARDI GRAS
IN LOUISIANA'S ACADIANA REGION, miles
away from New Orleans’ crowds and colorful floats, a
different type of Mardi Gras celebration takes place.
Many towns in this region celebrate the cultural
tradition called courir de Mardi Gras, which translates
as the Fat Tuesday run. In Cajun Country, locals
get together on Fat Tuesday for a day of revelry that
includes the traditional courir, during which costumed
participants travel the countryside, chasing chickens
and collecting ingredients to be used later that day in a
community gumbo.
The Cajun Mardi Gras tradition dates back to
medieval France, when disguised revelers would
go house to house begging for food in exchange for
performing a dance or song. The Cajuns brought the
tradition to south Louisiana, where it is still celebrated
today. Customs vary from town to town, but revelers
typically wear homemade fringed costumes, painted wire
masks, and pointed hats called capuchons.
The courir is headed by the capitaine, cloaked
in a cape, who leads participants on horseback, foot,
or wagon as they make their pilgrimage to collect
ingredients for the communal gumbo. The highlight of
the day is the chicken run, when a live chicken is thrown
into the air for participants to chase through the fields.
When the revelers return from their day of procuring
ingredients and chasing chickens, the community
gumbo is prepared for everyone to enjoy.
Each town’s courir is unique. In Eunice, which is
celebrating its 100th courir this year, the festivities begin
the Friday before Fat Tuesday and include concerts,

31 louisianacookin.com

a children’s run, and a traditional boucherie, or hog
butchering. The boucherie begins early on the morning
of Lundi Gras (the Monday before Fat Tuesday) with the
butchering of the hog at Lakeview Park & Beach. Then
the meat is used in dishes such as boudin, cracklin’s,
and backbone stew. On Fat Tuesday, more than 2,000
revelers participate in the horseback ride and chicken
run. Similar courirs take place in nearby towns and
communities, such as Mamou, Iota, and Faquetigue.
In Church Point, the Tee Mamou-Iota Mardi Gras
Folklife Festival is the main event of what is called
“Prairie Cajun Mardi Gras.” The festival lasts all day,
but the Tee Mamou Courir arrives in town on a wagon
around 2 p.m. before gathering on the main stage to sing
their traditional Mardi Gras chant in French and dance
in the street while begging for loose change. During
the festival, visitors can enjoy Cajun delicacies such as
gumbo, syrup pies, crawfish étouffée, and more.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Chicken runs in St. Landry Parish.
THIS PAGE: (Clockwise from top left) Liberty Theatre Mardi Gras
show; Lundi Gras Boucherie at Lakeview Park & Beach in Eunice;
jam session in Faquetigue; and Eunice Courir de Mardi Gras.
CAJUN MARDI GRAS FESTIVITIES
For more information on how to attend Cajun Mardi
Gras events in Louisiana, visit the following websites:
St. Landry Parish
cajuntravel.com/mardi-gras
Acadia Parish
acadiatourism.org/events
Evangeline Parish
evangelineparishtourism.org/event
For a different perspective on Mardi Gras in
Louisiana, experiencing the festivities in Cajun Country is
a must. Whether you observe a courir, enjoy a comforting
bowl of gumbo or pork dish at a boucherie, or dance in
the streets while listening to zydeco, there’s nothing quite
like Cajun Mardi Gras. 
Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 32
C H E F’S TAB L E

ACADIANA
COMFORT
ABOUT A HALF HOUR’S DRIVE from downtown
Lafayette, Chef Cory Bourgeois has set up a comforting food
oasis at Graton Eatery. Situated just outside St. Martinville’s
charming downtown area and not far from Bayou Teche,
Graton offers thoughtful yet accessible dining options.
“[My partner and I are] both chefs and there isn’t much
chef-driven food out here right now,” Cory says, “so I wanted to
do something that’s approachable but also where everything is
from-scratch, made in-house. Simple food done right.”
This approach is the culmination of years of work and
training, started by cooking with his family in New Orleans.
“My grandmothers were huge cooks, and I fell in love with
it at an early age. By the end of high school, I didn’t know what
to do. Hurricane Katrina happened when I was a senior, so
life was in turmoil, but I was able to get a pretty good job at a
catering company,” Cory says. “From there I decided to go to
culinary school and stuck with it for a few years and worked
with a few of Brennan’s restaurants and fell in love with it.”
After his training at Delgado Community College’s culinary
arts program and his time in New Orleans and New York,

Chef Cory Bourgeois

Graton Eatery
7181 Main Hwy. • St. Martinville
337.242.2022 • facebook.com/GratonEatery

33 louisianacookin.com
 BRISKET BURNT
ENDS TACOS

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 34


he moved west to Lafayette, where he worked at the
then-new Brick & Spoon brunch restaurant (that would
go on to open locations as far north as Pigeon Forge,
Tennessee). From casual brunch, he turned to high-end,
locally sourced cooking at Dark Roux with local chef
Ryan Trahan.
A few months before Dark Roux closed, Cory left
the restaurant and spent some time living on a farm in
Argentina. His time there gave him a greater knowledge
and appreciation of how livestock is raised.
“I worked with a few gauchos on our farm. We had
a flock of 30 lambs, and we ended up culling about half
of them for a few asados,” Cory says. “The people who
owned the larger part of the farm would sell the lambs.
Getting to see that firsthand, with the butchery, was a
really cool experience.”
While diners at Graton Eatery won’t find open-fire
Argentinian cookery on the menu, they can partake in
Cory’s weekly Sunday barbecues, where he slowly cooks
brisket, ribs, and chicken. Cory’s ethos of making the
most out of his products shows here, since he saves the
choicest bits of brisket for these barbecues and cooks the
rest for his popular Brisket Burnt Ends Tacos (served
with barbecue sauce, guacamole sauce, pickled peppers,
and crema) and brisket fries.
The hands-down fan favorite, according to Cory, is
the Graton Burger, which consists of a 70/30 blend of
35 louisianacookin.com
LEFT Cheese Balls (boudin balls with pimiento-pepper
jack dipping sauce and house-pickled vegetables).
prime brisket and chuck (ground in-house just about
every day) that’s served with aïoli, Creole mustard, and
bread and butter pickles on Acadiana’s own Evangeline
Maid bread (which celebrated its 100th anniversary in
2019). His Hot Chick Sammy—a buttermilk-marinated
fried chicken thigh topped with pickles, slaw, ranch
dressing, and a spicy Crystal butter sauce—has always
been popular, but it did see a spike in interest during the
Popeye’s/Chick-fil-A sandwich spat last summer.
For those with a sweet tooth, the most popular
desserts are their house-made chocolate chip cookies
and their version of the Momofuku Milk Bar Pie (a
buttermilk pie with an oatmeal cookie crust). If that
weren’t enough, Graton will be bringing back their
popular king cake for Carnival season.
Cory sees Graton Eatery as more than a restaurant,
though. As time has gone on, he’s added bits and pieces
to the concept to make the space even more appealing.
In addition to his Sunday barbecues, he’s added a display
refrigerator with grab-and-go smoked meats and fixin’s
to help folks spice up their home cooking. Additionally,
he plans to roll out drive-up window service where
hungry Cajuns (and visitors) will be able to order hot
boudin and cracklin’s.
For diners looking to get their fix of well-made,
comforting food with a distinctly south Louisiana
accent, Graton Eatery is worth the trip. 
 GRATON BURGER

HOT CHICK SAMMY

dishes BRISKET BURNT ENDS TACOS
to try CHEESE BALLS

PULLED PORK SAMMY

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 36

CREAMY CREOLE
COLESLAW

P. 43
 MAKE-AHEAD

Fat Tuesday
LUNCH
In New Orleans, Fat Tuesday is one of the most exciting days of the
year, when revelers gather along the Uptown parade route to attend the last
parades of the Carnival season. Catching beads and dancing in the streets can
work up quite an appetite, so when the final float rolls on by, you’ll want to have
a post-parade lunch ready to serve. If you’re hosting folks for Mardi Gras this
year, we have a few recipes to help make things easier for you. One of the best
things about these recipes is that they can be prepped in advance, meaning
more time for you to head out to the parades and let the good times roll.

photography by nicole du bois

recipe development by
taylor franklin wann
styling by mary beth jones
 CRACKLIN’
DEVILED EGGS

P. 43
 CRAWFISH
QUESO

P. 43

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 40

 RED BEANS
AND RICE

P. 43

41 louisianacookin.com
 JALAPEÑ
JALAPE ÑO
HAVARTI BISCUITS

P. 43

SWEET TEA
OVEN-FRIED CHICKEN

P. 44
CRAWFISH QUESO
MAKES 12 TO 15 SERVINGS
(photo on page 40)
This slightly spicy, extra creamy cheese
dip can be made ahead and kept warm
on the low setting in a slow cooker.
3 tablespoons canola oil
½ large onion, finely diced
3 jalapeños, seeded and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ teaspoons Cajun seasoning
1 pound frozen crawfish tails,
thawed, drained, and chopped
16 ounces white restaurant-style
cheese dip*, cubed
2 (8-ounce) cans diced green
chiles
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons hot sauce
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Garnish: diced jalapeño, crawfish tails
1. In a medium saucepan, heat oil
over medium-high heat; add onion
and minced jalapeños, and cook until
tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic
and Cajun seasoning; cook for
1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-
low; add crawfish, cheese dip, green
chiles, milk, hot sauce, and vinegar.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until
cheese dip is melted, 10 to
15 minutes. Garnish with diced
jalapeño and crawfish, if desired.
*We used Queso-Melt.
CREAMY CREOLE
COLESLAW
MAKES ABOUT 7 CUPS
(photo on page 37)
This colorful, creamy slaw has a bit of
bite from Creole mustard and sherry
vinegar.
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons Creole mustard
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon Creole seasoning
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon celery seeds
4 cups shredded green cabbage,
rinsed (about 1 large head)
4 cups shredded purple cabbage,
rinsed (about 1 large head)
2 yellow bell peppers, julienned
43 louisianacookin.com
1. In a large bowl, combine
mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard,
vinegar, Creole seasoning, sugar,
and celery seeds. Cover tightly, and
refrigerate until ready to use.
2. In another large bowl, combine
cabbages and bell peppers. Add
dressing to slaw mix 30 minutes before
serving, stirring to coat. Serve cold.
JALAPEÑO HAVARTI
BISCUITS
MAKES 12
(photo on page 42)
These buttery, tender biscuits will be the
talk of your Mardi Gras party.
3 cups self-rising flour
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning, plus
more for sprinkling
¾ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed
1 cup Havarti cheese, shredded
2 jalapeños, minced (seeds
removed, if desired)
1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons cold
whole buttermilk, divided
12 thin slices jalapeño
1. Preheat oven to 450°. Line a
baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, combine flour
and Creole seasoning. Using a
pastry blender or 2 forks, cut in cold
butter until mixture is crumbly. Fold
in cheese and minced jalapeños.
Gradually add 1¼ cups buttermilk,
stirring just until dry ingredients
are moistened. Knead together by
hand in bowl just until dough comes
together.
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly
floured surface, and gently knead
4 times. Roll to ¾-inch thickness.
Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut
dough, rerolling scraps once, and
place on prepared pan. Brush top of
dough with remaining 2 tablespoons
buttermilk. Sprinkle with Creole
seasoning; top with jalapeño slices.
4. Bake until golden brown, about
15 minutes. Let cool on pan for
about 5 minutes.
CRACKLIN’ DEVILED EGGS
MAKES 16
(photo on page 39)
How do you make deviled eggs even
better? Put pork rinds on top! If making
ahead of time, wait to add pork rinds
until ready to serve.
8 large hard-cooked eggs, peeled
and halved lengthwise
¼ cup mayonnaise
2 cornichons, minced
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon Creole mustard
½ teaspoon brown sugar
¼ teaspoon Cajun seasoning
1 to 3 teaspoons cornichon brine
from jar
Garnish: pork rinds, minced chives
1. Separate egg yolks from whites.
Place egg whites on a serving platter.
2. In a medium bowl, using a fork,
mash egg yolks. Stir in mayonnaise,
cornichons, hot sauce, mustard,
brown sugar, and Cajun seasoning
until well combined. Add brine,
1 teaspoon at a time, until desired
texture is achieved. Pipe mixture into
egg whites. Cover and refrigerate
until chilled, about 1 hour. Garnish
with pork rinds and chives, if desired.
RED BEANS AND RICE
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 41)
Serving red beans and rice is a great
way to feed a crowd on Fat Tuesday.
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 (14-ounce) package andouille
sausage, sliced ¼ inch thick
2 yellow onions, chopped
2 green bell peppers, chopped
4 tablespoons minced garlic
1 (16-ounce) package dried red
kidney beans, soaked overnight,
drained, and rinsed
4 cups water
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon chicken bouillon
paste
1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon hot sauce
½ teaspoon oregano
½ teaspoon celery seeds
1 bay leaf
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: fresh parsley
1. In a large Dutch oven, cook
andouille over medium heat until
browned, about 8 minutes. Remove
andouille using a slotted spoon, and
let drain on paper towels, reserving
drippings in pot. Refrigerate andouille
until ready to use.
2. Add onion and bell pepper to
drippings; cook, stirring frequently,
until onion is translucent, 8 to
10 minutes. Add garlic; cook for
2 minutes. Stir in beans, 4 cups water,
parsley, vinegar, bouillon paste, Cajun
seasoning, chili powder, hot sauce,
oregano, celery seeds, and bay leaf.
Bring to a boil; reduce heat, cover,
and simmer, stirring occasionally,
until beans are tender, about 2 hours.
Discard bay leaf.
3. Using a fork, mash beans to desired
consistency. Add andouille, stirring
to combine; cook over medium heat
until heated through. Serve with rice.
Garnish with parsley, if desired.
SWEET TEA OVEN-FRIED
CHICKEN
MAKES 16 TO 20 SERVINGS
(photo on page 42)
You won’t believe how juicy and flavorful
this oven-baked chicken is.
1 gallon water
4 bags black tea
2 cups sugar
½ cup plus ¼ teaspoon kosher salt,
divided
2 cups ice cubes
2 (3- to 4-pound) whole chickens,
each cut into 10 pieces (breasts
halved)
2 cups whole buttermilk
2 tablespoons hot sauce
2 cup all-purpose flour
2 cup white rice flour
2 cup medium-grind yellow
cornmeal
2 cup panko (Japanese bread
crumbs), blended in food
processor for 45 seconds
2 teaspoon garlic powder
2 teaspoon smoked paprika
2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried oregano
6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
softened
6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
1. In a large stockpot, bring 1 gallon
water to a boil. Remove from heat,
and add tea bags. Let steep for
20 minutes; discard tea bags. Add
sugar and ½ cup salt, and stir to
dissolve. Add ice. Pour brine into
a large nonreactive container.
Refrigerate until an instant-read
thermometer registers 41°.
2. Add chicken to brine. Cover and
refrigerate for at least 8 hours or
overnight.
3. Drain chicken, and pat dry. In
a large bowl, combine buttermilk
and hot sauce. Add chicken, and
refrigerate for 45 minutes.
4. In a shallow dish, whisk together
flours, cornmeal, bread crumbs,
garlic powder, paprika, pepper,
thyme, oregano, and remaining
¼ teaspoon salt. Dredge chicken in
flour mixture; refrigerate chicken in
flour mixture for 45 minutes to
1 hour. Remove chicken from flour,
shaking off excess.
5. Preheat oven to 450°.
6. Divide softened butter among
3 (13x9-inch) baking dishes; place
in oven to preheat for 10 minutes.
Carefully place chicken, skin side
down, in even layers in preheated pans.
7. Bake for 10 minutes. Brush chicken
with melted butter. Turn, and bake
until skin is golden brown and crispy
and an instant-read thermometer
inserted in thickest portion registers
165°, about 20 minutes more.
 KING
CAKE
OUR VERSATILE KING CAKE
DOUGH ALLOWS FOR
ENDLESS FLAVOR POSSIBILITIES

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by laura crandall

food styling by elizabeth stringer | styling by sidney bragiel
IT'S THE MOST wonderful time
of the year . . . in Louisiana, at least!
January 6 marks the beginning of
Carnival season each year, and with it
comes all manner of merriment, including
our favorite seasonal delicacy: king cake.
Throughout the weeks leading up to Fat
Tuesday (which falls on February 25
this year), we’ll undoubtedly be picking
up king cakes from local bakeries and
shops, but we also look forward to baking
some of our own. This versatile Danish-
style dough is a fantastic base recipe to
get you started, and it can be filled with
anything from traditional cream cheese
and cinnamon to decadent chocolate or
a fanciful take on nectar cream, a classic
New Orleans flavor.
ON OU R
CINNAMON-CREAM
CHEESE KING CAKE
P. 49
Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 46
 SALTED CARAMEL
AND CHOCOLATE
KING CAKE

P. 50

47 louisianacookin.com
NECTAR CREAM
KING CAKE

P. 49
KING CAKE DOUGH
MAKES DOUGH FOR 1 CAKE
This dough is used in all three of our
king cake recipes, and it’s versatile
enough for you to get creative with
your own fillings and toppings.
4½ cups bread flour, divided
½ cup sugar
1 (0.25-ounce) package instant
yeast
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup water
½ cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 egg yolk
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
with the paddle attachment, combine
2 cups flour, sugar, yeast, and salt.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat 1 cup
water, butter, and vanilla over medium
heat until butter is melted and an
instant-read thermometer registers
120° to 130°. Add warm butter
mixture to flour mixture, and beat
at medium speed until combined
and cooled slightly, about 2 minutes.
Add egg and egg yolk, and beat at
medium speed until combined. With
mixer on low speed, gradually add
remaining 2½ cups flour, beating just
until combined and stopping to scrape
sides of bowl.
3. Switch to the dough hook
attachment. Beat at low speed until
a soft dough forms, about 8 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl and
dough hook. (Dough will be slightly
sticky.) Turn out dough onto a lightly
floured surface, and shape into a
smooth round.
4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place
dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-
free place (75°) until doubled in size,
about 1 hour.
CINNAMON-CREAM
CHEESE KING CAKE
MAKES 1
(photo on page 46)
Swirled with cream cheese and
cinnamon, this traditional king cake is
a must for any Mardi Gras parties you
attend this year.
49 louisianacookin.com
6 ounces cream cheese, softened
⅔ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 egg yolk
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon kosher salt
King Cake Dough (recipe precedes)
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
Cream Cheese Frosting
(recipe follows)
Garnish: colored sanding sugar
1. In a medium bowl, beat cream
cheese with a mixer at medium speed
until smooth. Add confectioners’
sugar, egg yolk, cinnamon, vanilla,
and salt, and beat at low speed until
combined and smooth.
2. Lightly punch down King Cake
Dough. Cover and let stand for
5 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk
together egg and 1 tablespoon water.
3. Turn out King Cake Dough onto
a lightly floured surface, and divide
in half. Roll one half into a 24x6-
inch rectangle. Using a small offset
spatula, spread half of cream cheese
mixture onto dough, leaving a ½-inch
border on one long side. Brush border
with egg wash. Starting with long
side opposite border, roll up dough,
jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal.
Gently shape log to even thickness,
if necessary. Repeat procedure with
remaining dough and remaining
cream cheese mixture.
4. Carefully twist logs together,
and place on a sheet of parchment
paper. Form into a circle, twisting and
pinching ends to seal. (Use egg wash,
if needed.) Slide parchment onto a
baking sheet. Cover and let rise in
a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
puffed, 30 to 45 minutes.
5. Preheat oven to 350°.
6. Brush dough with egg wash.
7. Bake until lightly golden and an
instant-read thermometer inserted
in center registers 190°, 30 to
45 minutes, loosely covering with foil
halfway through baking to prevent
excess browning, if necessary. Let
cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove
from pan, and let cool completely on
a wire rack. Spread Cream Cheese
Frosting on top, and garnish with
colored sanding sugar, if desired.
CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
½ tablespoon whole milk
½ teaspoon clear vanilla extract
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1. In a medium bowl, beat cream
cheese, milk, vanilla, and salt with a
mixer at medium speed until smooth.
Gradually add confectioners’ sugar,
beating at low speed until smooth.
NECTAR CREAM KING CAKE
MAKES 1
(photo on page 48)
With notes of vanilla and almonds,
nectar cream is a popular snoball flavor
in New Orleans.
6 ounces cream cheese, softened
⅔ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 egg yolk
1½ teaspoons almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 drops liquid red food coloring
King Cake Dough (recipe precedes)
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
Cream Cheese Frosting
(recipe precedes)
Garnish: food coloring spray*
1. In a medium bowl, beat cream
cheese with a mixer at medium speed
until smooth. Add confectioners’
sugar, egg yolk, extracts, and food
coloring, and beat at low speed until
combined and smooth.
2. Lightly punch down King Cake
Dough. Cover and let stand for
5 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk
together egg and 1 tablespoon water.
3. Turn out King Cake Dough onto
a lightly floured surface, and divide in
half. Roll one half into a 24x6-inch
rectangle. Using a small offset
spatula, spread half of cream cheese
mixture onto dough, leaving a ½-inch
border on one long side. Brush border
with egg wash. Starting with long
side opposite border, roll up dough,
jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal.
Gently shape log to even thickness,
if necessary. Repeat procedure with
remaining dough and remaining
cream cheese mixture.
4. Carefully twist logs together,
and place on a sheet of parchment
paper. Form into a circle, twisting and
pinching ends to seal. (Use egg wash,
if needed.) Slide parchment onto a
baking sheet. Cover and let rise in
a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
puffed, 30 to 45 minutes.
5. Preheat oven to 350°.
6. Brush dough with egg wash.
7. Bake until lightly golden and an
instant-read thermometer inserted
in center registers 190°, 30 to
45 minutes, loosely covering with foil
halfway through baking to prevent
excess browning, if necessary. Let
cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove
from pan, and let cool completely on
a wire rack. Spread Cream Cheese
Frosting on top, and garnish with food
coloring spray, if desired.
*We used Wilton Color Mist Food
Coloring Spray in Pearl and Pink.
SALTED CARAMEL AND
CHOCOLATE KING CAKE
MAKES 1
(photo on page 47)
With rich chocolate and a smooth
caramel sauce, who could resist this
delicious king cake?
6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
softened
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
King Cake Dough (recipe precedes)
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
2 (4-ounce) semisweet chocolate
baking bars, chopped
Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe
follows)
Garnish: assorted gold sprinkles*
1. In a small bowl, whisk together
butter, sugar, and cinnamon.
2. Lightly punch down King Cake
Dough. Cover and let stand for
5 minutes. In another small bowl,
whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon
water.
3. Turn out King Cake Dough onto a
lightly floured surface, and divide in
half. Roll one half into a 24x6-inch
rectangle. Using a small offset spatula,
spread half of butter mixture onto
dough, leaving a ½-inch border on one
long side. Sprinkle with half of chocolate.
Brush border with egg wash. Starting with
long side opposite border, roll up dough,
jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal. Gently
shape log to even thickness, if necessary.
Repeat procedure with remaining dough,
remaining filling, and remaining chocolate.
4. Carefully twist logs together, and place
on a sheet of parchment paper. Form
into a circle, twisting and pinching ends
to seal. (Use egg wash, if needed.) Slide
parchment onto a baking sheet. Cover and
let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°)
until puffed, 30 to 45 minutes.
5. Preheat oven to 350°.
6. Brush dough with egg wash.
7. Bake until lightly golden and an instant-
read thermometer inserted in center
registers 190°, about 50 minutes, loosely
covering with foil halfway through baking to
prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let
cool on pan for 10 minutes. Remove from
pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
Drizzle with Salted Caramel Sauce, and
garnish with sprinkles, if desired.
*We used Wilton Gold Pearlized Sprinkles
and Wilton Gold Sugar Pearl Sprinkles.
SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS
½ cup heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon Maldon sea salt
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons water, divided
6 tablespoons unsalted butter,
cubed and softened
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. In a small saucepan, heat cream and
sea salt over medium-low heat just until
bubbles form around edges of pan and salt
is dissolved. (Do not boil.) Remove from
heat, and set aside.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and
3 tablespoons water over high heat, being
careful not to splash sides of pan. (Mixture
should look like wet sand.) Use remaining
1 tablespoon water to brush down sides
of pan, and stir to help sugar dissolve.
(Do not stir once it starts to boil). Cook
until light amber colored, 6 to 8 minutes.
Remove from heat; slowly add warm
cream mixture, whisking to combine. Add
butter, a few pieces at a time, whisking
until combined. Stir in vanilla. Let cool to
room temperature.
WAYS W I T H G U M B O

NEW TAKES
ON THE BAYOU STATE’S
FAVORITE DISH

recipe development by melissa gray

food styling by kathleen kanen
styling by mary beth jones
THE 5-POUND
GUMBO

P. 57
 SPICY
BEEF GUMBO

P. 58
 GUMBO Z’HERBES

P.57

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 54

 DUCK AND
ANDOUILLE GUMBO

P. 57
CREAMY POTATO SALAD 1. In a large stockpot, bring potatoes, black pepper, and remaining
MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS 3 teaspoons salt, and water to cover ¾ teaspoon salt until combined.
by 2 inches to a boil over medium- Cover and refrigerate until ready
Whether you scoop it into the bowl or high heat. Reduce heat to medium; to serve. Garnish with black pepper,
serve it on the side, this potato salad is cook until fork-tender, 15 to if desired.
the perfect gumbo accompaniment. 20 minutes. Drain well.
2. In a large bowl, using a potato
2½ pounds yellow potatoes, peeled masher, mash potatoes until smooth.
and cut into 1-inch pieces Stir in eggs, mayonnaise, green onion,
3¾ teaspoons kosher salt, divided relish, mustard, paprika, cayenne,
6 hard-cooked eggs, chopped
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chopped green onion
2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish
2 tablespoons yellow mustard
¼ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
Garnish: ground black pepper

CHICKEN AND
TASSO GUMBO

P. 58

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 56

THE 5-POUND GUMBO
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
(photo on pages 51–52)
With 5 pounds of pork, sausage,
chicken, and seafood, this gumbo has
everything but the kitchen sink!
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 pound diced pickled pork
1 (16-ounce) package smoked
sausage, halved lengthwise
and sliced ½ inch thick
½ pound hot Italian sausage
1 pound skinless chicken drumsticks
1 large sweet onion, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper,
seeded and chopped
½ cup chopped green onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup all-purpose flour
10 cups water
5 dried bay leaves
3 dried red peppers
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 pound large fresh shrimp, peeled
and deveined
12 fresh oysters, shucked and drained
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: chopped green onion
1. In a large enamel-coated Dutch
oven, heat 1 tablespoon oil over
medium-high heat. Add pork and
sausages; cook, stirring occasionally,
until browned, about 12 minutes.
Remove using a slotted spoon, and let
drain on paper towels. Add chicken
to pot; cook, turning as needed, until
browned, about 8 minutes. Set aside.
2. In same Dutch oven, heat remaining
3 tablespoons oil over medium-high
heat. Add sweet onion, bell pepper,
green onion, and garlic; cook, stirring
occasionally, until tender, about
5 minutes. Stir in flour; cook until
light golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes.
3. Gradually whisk in 10 cups water
until smooth. Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat; reduce heat to
medium, and stir in pork, sausages,
chicken, bay leaves, red peppers, salt,
and black pepper. Simmer, stirring
occasionally, until meat is tender,
about 45 minutes. Add shrimp and
oysters; cook until firm, about
5 minutes. Discard bay leaves and red
peppers. Serve with rice. Garnish with
green onion, if desired.
57 louisianacookin.com
DUCK AND ANDOUILLE
GUMBO
MAKES ABOUT 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
(photo on page 55)
For this take on gumbo, we used
rendered fat from duck and andouille in
the roux for an incredibly rich result.
2 (8-ounce) duck breasts, fat scored
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 teaspoon ground black pepper,
divided
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 (12-ounce) package andouille
sausage, halved lengthwise
and sliced ½ inch thick
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup chopped yellow onion
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped green bell pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 (12-ounce) bottle dark brown ale
2 (32-ounce) containers low-
sodium chicken broth
2 dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: fresh thyme leaves
1. Sprinkle duck with 1 teaspoon salt
and ½ teaspoon black pepper.
2. In a large enamel-coated Dutch
oven, heat oil over medium-high heat.
Add duck, fat side down, and cook
until browned and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in thickest
portion registers 100˚, about 5 minutes
per side. Reduce heat to medium,
if needed. Remove, and let drain on
paper towels, reserving drippings in pot.
Add andouille, and cook until browned,
about 5 minutes. Remove using a
slotted spoon, and let drain on paper
towels, reserving drippings in pot.
3. Reduce heat to medium; whisk in
flour, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until dark brown, about 10 minutes.
Stir in onion, celery, and bell pepper.
Cook, stirring frequently, until
vegetables begin to soften, about
5 minutes. Add garlic, paprika,
cumin, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and
remaining ½ teaspoon black pepper.
Cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Whisk in beer until smooth.
4. Add duck, andouille, chicken
broth, and bay leaves. Bring to a
boil; reduce heat to medium-low.
Cover and cook, stirring occasionally,
until meat is tender, about 1 hour.
Remove duck. Using 2 forks, shred
meat, and discard fat. Stir in shredded
duck, thyme, and lemon juice before
serving. Serve over rice. Garnish with
thyme, if desired.
GUMBO Z’HERBES
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
(photo on page 54)
Made with nine kinds of greens, this
vegetarian gumbo is traditionally served
during the Lenten season in Louisiana.
14 cups water
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
kosher salt, divided
1 bunch mustard greens, stemmed
and chopped
1 bunch collard greens, stemmed
and chopped
1 bunch turnip greens, stemmed
and chopped
1 bunch Swiss chard, stemmed and
chopped
4 cups chopped butterleaf lettuce
(about 1 head)
4 cups chopped green cabbage
(about ½ head)
1 (5-ounce) bag baby spinach
1 (4-ounce) bag baby arugula
1 (4-ounce) bag watercress
2 medium sweet onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, smashed
¼ cup unsalted butter
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon filé powder
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley,
hot sauce, fresh lemon juice
1. In a large enamel-coated Dutch
oven, bring 14 cups water and
2 tablespoons salt to a boil over
medium-high heat. Gradually add all
greens, onions, and garlic. Return to
a boil; reduce heat to medium-low.
Cover and cook, stirring occasionally,
for 30 minutes. Drain well, reserving
liquid.
2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
place greens mixture; pulse until
puréed. (Purée in batches, if needed.)
3. In same Dutch oven, melt butter
over medium-high heat. Whisk in
flour; cook, whisking occasionally,
until light golden brown, about
5 minutes. Whisk in 10 cups reserved
cooking liquid until smooth. Stir in
greens mixture. Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat; reduce heat
to medium, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 20 minutes. Stir
in parsley, cayenne, and remaining
2 teaspoons salt; cook, stirring
occasionally, until slightly thickened,
about 40 minutes.
4. Stir in filé before serving. Serve
over rice. Garnish with parsley, hot
sauce, and lemon juice, if desired.
SPICY BEEF GUMBO
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
(photo on page 53)
Inspired by Chef Paul Prudhomme’s
Seven Steak Gumbo, this beef-based
gumbo is great for big gatherings.
2½ pounds boneless chuck, cut into
¾-inch cubes
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons Cajun seasoning
½ cup olive oil
3 cups chopped yellow onion
2 cups chopped celery
2 cups chopped green bell pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 small jalapeño, seeded and
chopped
6 cups low-sodium beef broth
4 dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 tablespoon chopped fresh
oregano
Hot cooked rice, to serve
Garnish: fresh oregano leaves, sliced
jalapeño
1. Sprinkle beef with flour and Cajun
seasoning.
2. In a large enamel-coated Dutch
oven, heat oil over medium-high
heat. Working in batches, add beef,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
browned, about 6 minutes. Remove
using a slotted spoon, and let drain
on paper towels, reserving drippings
in pot.
3. Add onion, celery, bell pepper,
garlic, and jalapeño to pot; cook,
stirring occasionally, until tender,
about 5 minutes. Gradually stir in
broth until smooth. Stir in beef, bay tasso until coated. Gradually stir in
leaves, and hot sauce; bring to a boil. broth. Bring to a boil; reduce heat
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, to medium-low, and cook, stirring
and cook, stirring occasionally, until occasionally, for 40 minutes.
meat is tender, about 1 hour. Discard Stir in onion powder, garlic powder,
bay leaves. Stir in oregano before remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and
serving. Serve with rice. Garnish with remaining ¼ teaspoon black pepper;
oregano and jalapeño, if desired. cook for 5 minutes. Stir in filé before
serving. Serve with Creamy Potato
CHICKEN AND TASSO Salad. Garnish with chives, if desired.
GUMBO
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
(photo on page 56) KITCHEN TIPS:
Make extra toasted flour, and
Tasso adds spice and a delicate smoked store in airtight container.
flavor to this dark roux gumbo. Keep in freezer for up to 1 year.
1½ cups all-purpose flour Wipe skillet of any excess oil
1 pound boneless skinless chicken before browning flour.
breast, diced
½ pound boneless chicken thighs,
diced
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper,
divided
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 cups chopped tasso ham
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium red bell pepper, seeded
and chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 (32-ounce) containers low-
sodium chicken broth
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon filé powder
Creamy Potato Salad, to serve
(recipe on page 56)
Garnish: chopped fresh chives
1. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat
flour over medium-high heat, stirring
constantly, until flour is the color
of dark caramel, 15 to 18 minutes.
(Reduce heat to medium, if
necessary.) Remove from skillet.
2. Sprinkle chicken with 1 teaspoon
salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper.
3. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over
medium-high heat. Add chicken; cook,
stirring occasionally, until browned,
about 12 minutes. Remove from pan.
Add tasso; cook, stirring occasionally,
until browned, about 3 minutes.
Remove using a slotted spoon, and
let drain on paper towels, reserving
drippings in pot.
4. Add onion, bell pepper, and garlic
to pot, and cook until tender, about
3 minutes. Stir in flour, chicken, and
CULINARY
ROYALTY
LOUISIANA CHEF TAKES HOME CROWN AT
LOCAL AND NATIONAL SEAFOOD COMPETITIONS

59 louisianacookin.com
F
OR THE SECOND YEAR IN A ROW,
A LOUISIANA CHEF TOOK HOME
THE CROWN AT THE 2019 GREAT
AMERICAN SEAFOOD COOK-OFF. Chef
Nathan Richard, executive chef at DTB (Down the
Bayou) in New Orleans, earned the title of King of
American Seafood by wowing judges with his creative
use of Louisiana seafood in a savory take on king cake,
the beloved Mardi Gras treat.
The Thibodaux native won the Louisiana Seafood
Cook-Off, which was held in June during the Taste of
EatLafayette Kick-Off event at Lafayette’s Cajundome. As
King of Louisiana Seafood, Nathan promotes Louisiana
seafood at events throughout the state, and his win
qualified him to compete in the national competition
in August. At the Great American Seafood Cook-Off,
Nathan competed against 16 chefs from other states and
US territories, and his seafood king cake impressed a
panel of nationally acclaimed judges.
Held in conjunction with the Louisiana Restaurant
Association Expo, the Great American Seafood Cook-
Off was started by the Louisiana Seafood Promotion
and Marketing Board in 2004 and gives chefs from
throughout the country the chance to represent their
states and promote domestic, sustainable seafood.
Chefs cook before a live audience, and their dishes are
scored based on presentation, creativity, composition,
craftsmanship, flavor, and more.
Nathan, who, in addition to his work as a chef,
is a 20-year veteran of the Thibodaux Volunteer Fire
Department, started his culinary career at Commander’s
Palace in New Orleans. He studied charcuterie in Europe
and worked at Fig and Husk in Charleston, South
Carolina, before eventually returning to New Orleans
and taking the executive chef position at Kingfish and
then Cavan, where he first created his Crawfish and Goat
Cheese King Cake. He joined DTB as executive chef in
August, where he continues to showcase his modern take
on classic Louisiana flavors and ingredients in dishes like
Alligator Bolognese.
Nathan’s winning dish was not only inspired by the
traditional king cake but also by crawfish bread, one of the
most popular foods at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage
Festival. Seeing as he was born on Twelfth Night, which
marks the start of Carnival season, it is fitting that he won
both competitions with a king cake recipe.
For the Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off, he incorporated
Louisiana crawfish tails into a mixture of goat cheese,
cream cheese, and shallots. After it finished baking, he
topped his creation with a pepper jelly icing, dehydrated
crab fat, and Cajun Caviar, a Louisiana-made bowfin
caviar. At the Great American Seafood Cook-Off, he
added oysters and shrimp to the filling, and he whipped
crab meat into the cream cheese icing.
“It’s not your mom ’n’ ’em’s king cake,” Nathan says.
Nathan knew that doing a baked dish in a timed
Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 60
 competition was a risky move.
And he knew there was
another risk involved with
making a king cake in the
Great American Seafood Cook-
Off: the judges weren’t from
Louisiana.
“It’s not like they understood
what the king cake was or knew
who I was or anything like
that,” Nathan says. “You don’t
know what they’re going to
want. . . . I was really shocked
that we won that one, for sure.”
Nathan has always had a
special connection with
Louisiana seafood. Growing
up in Thibodaux, he spent a lot of time freshwater fishing and hunting for
alligators, bullfrogs, turtles, and catfish.
“As a kid, I always knew that we had an abundance of great seafood,”
Nathan says. “It wasn’t until later on when I was cooking that seafood
became more important to me, because I had chances to travel all
different places and really learn about different seafood, and Louisiana has
some of the best, for sure. . . . It’s just very unique to have what we have
right out of the Gulf.”
61 louisianacookin.com
CRAWFISH AND GOAT
CHEESE KING CAKE
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef Nathan Richard,
DTB, New Orleans
Chef Nathan Richard took home the
crown at both the Louisiana Seafood
Cook-Off and the Great American
Seafood Cook-Off with his unique,
savory king cakes. You’ve never tasted
a king cake quite like this, filled with
Louisiana crawfish tails and creamy
goat cheese.
12 ounces cream cheese, softened
and divided
½ cup minced shallot
½ cup goat cheese, softened
2 tablespoons minced chives
2 teaspoons hot sauce*
1 (12-ounce) package Louisiana
crawfish tails, drained
2 (8-ounce) cans refrigerated
crescent dough sheets
¼ cup pepper jelly
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
Garnish: Cajun Caviar, sliced green
onion, dehydrated crab fat,
boiled crawfish
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a
baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, combine
4 ounces cream cheese, shallot, goat
cheese, chives, and hot sauce. Gently
fold in crawfish.
3. On a lightly floured surface, unroll
crescent dough sheets. Divide cream
cheese mixture between sheets;
spread into an even layer. Starting
with one long side, roll up dough,
jelly roll style; pinch seams to seal.
Shape into rings, and pinch ends to
seal. Transfer to prepared pan; loosely
cover with plastic wrap, and let stand
for 10 minutes.
4. Bake until golden brown, 30 to
40 minutes. Let cool slightly.
5. In a medium bowl, beat pepper
jelly, confectioners’ sugar, and
remaining 8 ounces cream cheese
with a mixer at medium-high speed
until smooth. Spread mixture onto
cakes. Garnish with Cajun Caviar,
green onion, crab fat, and crawfish,
if desired. 
*We used TABASCO®.
 KING CAKES
DELIVERED
On the heels of his win at the
Great American Seafood Cook-Off,
Nathan is now selling ready-to-bake
miniature versions of his
Crawfish and Goat Cheese
King Cake through
Cajun Grocer at cajungrocer.com.
All you have to do after baking
the cake is ice and decorate it.

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 62

 ith Louisiana being one of the top three rice-producing states
in the country, it’s easy to see why rice is such an essential
component of its most iconic dishes (jambalaya, gumbo, and étouffée
among them). Grown primarily in the southwestern portion of the
state, rice has been cultivated in Louisiana since the 19th century, and
today, it is the state’s top agricultural export. Long-grain white rice is
the most common variety grown here, but farmers continue to shake
things up with new cultivars like purple rice and popcorn rice.
This winter, we’re highlighting the delicious flavor and superior
quality of Louisiana rice in these grain bowl-inspired recipes. Grain
bowls have seen an increase in popularity in recent years, and for
good reason. They are easy to throw together and allow you to pair
grains like rice with vegetables, proteins, and dressing or sauce for
endless possibilities. These fresh, comforting recipes showcase some of
Louisiana’s best rice alongside other local favorites like sweet potatoes
and andouille for dishes that are anything but run-of-the-mill.

photography by jim bathie | recipe development by kathleen kanen

food styling by elizabeth stringer | styling by lucy finney
BLANCA ISABEL PURPLE RICE
Blanca Isabel was developed in 1998 by Dr. Milton C. Rush,
a rice pathologist at Louisiana State University. The rice is a
crossbreed of a long-grain rice variety from Louisiana and a
purple/black kernel variety from Sri Lanka. Named Blanca
Isabel, this rice cooks and tastes like long-grain white rice and
has the health benefits of purple rice. purpleblackrice.com
LONG-GRAIN BROWN RICE
Whereas white rice has had the bran and germ removed,
brown rice is a whole grain, which means only the outer hull
has been removed. Brown rice takes a little longer to cook
than white rice, but it comes with a lot of health benefits.
Brown rice is grown by a few producers in Louisiana,
including Konriko in New Iberia. conradrice.com
JAZZMAN RICE
Jazzman is a variety of aromatic rice developed by the
LSU AgCenter in Crowley, the self-proclaimed Rice
Capital of America. Similar to Thai jasmine rice, Jazzman
has a pleasant aroma and sticky texture when cooked.
This locally grown grain is produced by Jazzmen Rice and
is available in white and brown varieties. jazzmenrice.com
POPCORN RICE
Popcorn rice was also developed at the LSU AgCenter. This
aromatic rice gives off a nutty fragrance that smells slightly like
popcorn when cooked. Its firmer texture is similar to other long-
grain white rice varieties. Several Louisiana rice producers offer
popcorn rice, though Ellis Stansel is said to be the founder of the
US popcorn rice market. stanselrice.com
 BLACKENED CHICKEN WITH
HERB-PECAN RICE

P. 69

65 louisianacookin.com
 ROASTED SHRIMP
AND MIRLITON SLAW OVER
LEMON PURPLE RICE

P. 69
BEEF-STOUT STEW
WITH BACON
BROWN RICE

P. 69
 BEANS AND RICE
WITH ANDOUILLE AND
CAJUN CRISPIES

P. 70
BLACKENED CHICKEN WITH
HERB-PECAN RICE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
(photo on page 65)
With just a handful of ingredients, this
easy dish comes together in less than
an hour and is packed with bold flavor.
The nutty flavor of our Herb-Pecan Rice
pairs delightfully with spiced chicken
and creamy rémoulade sauce.
¼ cup blackening seasoning*
4 large boneless skinless chicken
thighs (about 1½ pounds)
2 tablespoons canola oil
Herb-Pecan Rice (recipe follows)
Rémoulade sauce, to serve
Garnish: chopped green onion
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a small
rimmed baking sheet with foil.
2. In a shallow bowl, place blackening
seasoning. Dredge chicken in
blackening seasoning, shaking off
excess.
3. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, heat
oil over medium-high heat. Add
chicken, and cook until blackened,
2 to 3 minutes per side. Place chicken
on prepared pan.
4. Bake until an instant-read
thermometer inserted in thickest
portion reads 165°, 10 to 12 minutes.
Let stand for 5 to 8 minutes before
slicing. Serve with Herb-Pecan Rice
and rémoulade sauce. Garnish with
green onion, if desired.
*We used Louisiana Cajun Blackened
Seasoning.
HERB-PECAN RICE
MAKES 3½ CUPS
2 cups water
1 cup popcorn rice*
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ cup toasted pecans, finely
chopped
¼ cup chopped green onion
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups
water, rice, salt, and pepper to a boil
over medium-high heat. Stir twice.
69 louisianacookin.com
Reduce heat to medium-low; cover
and simmer until rice is tender and
liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.
Remove from heat. Let stand for
10 minutes. Add pecans, green onion,
and thyme; fluff with a fork.
*We used Ellis Stansel’s Gourmet Rice.
ROASTED SHRIMP AND
MIRLITON SLAW OVER
LEMON PURPLE RICE
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
(photo on page 66)
A simple yet zesty mirliton slaw, spicy
roasted shrimp, and lemon-infused rice
liven up this colorful, healthy dish.
6 medium radishes, cut into
matchsticks (about 1 cup)
1 large mirliton, cut into
matchsticks (about 2 cups)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons finely diced seeded
jalapeños (about 2 medium)
1 tablespoon canola oil
1¼ teaspoons sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
⅓ cup unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon hot sauce
24 extra-large shrimp, peeled and
deveined (tails left on)
(about 1½ pounds)
Lemon Purple Rice (recipe follows)
Garnish: lemon wedges
1. In a medium bowl, toss together
radishes, mirliton, lemon juice,
jalapeño, oil, sugar, and ¼ teaspoon
salt. Cover and refrigerate until
chilled, about 1 hour. Toss in parsley.
2. Preheat oven to 450°. Spray
a large rimmed baking sheet with
cooking spray.
3. In a large bowl, combine melted
butter, hot sauce, and remaining
½ teaspoon salt. Add shrimp,
tossing to coat. Spread mixture
on prepared pan.
4. Bake until shrimp are pink and
firm, 7 to 8 minutes. Serve with
Lemon Purple Rice, and top with slaw.
Garnish with lemon, if desired.
LEMON PURPLE RICE
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1¾ cups water
2 teaspoons lemon zest
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup long-grain purple rice*
1. In a medium saucepan, bring
1¾ cups water, lemon zest, and salt
to a boil over medium-high heat.
Stir in rice; cover, reduce heat, and
simmer until liquid is absorbed, 15 to
18 minutes. Fluff with a fork before
serving.
*We used Blanca Isabel Purple Rice.
BEEF-STOUT STEW WITH
BACON BROWN RICE
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
(photo on page 67)
This rich beef stew is the ultimate winter
comfort food.
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
2 cups coarsely chopped yellow
onion
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
4 cloves garlic, sliced
2½ pounds chuck roast, trimmed
and cut into 1½-inch pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper,
divided
4 cups beef broth, divided
1 (12-ounce) bottle coffee stout*
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
½ cup all-purpose flour
4 cups (1-inch) cubed peeled sweet
potato (about 1½ pounds)
Bacon Brown Rice (recipe follows)
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley
1. In a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven,
heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-
high heat. Add onion and celery;
cook until lightly browned, about
5 minutes. Add garlic; cook for
1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl.
2. Add 1 tablespoon oil to pot.
Sprinkle beef with 1½ teaspoons salt
and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add half
of beef to pot; cook, turning pieces
occasionally, until browned, about
4 minutes. Transfer to bowl with
onion mixture. Repeat with remaining
1 tablespoon oil and remaining beef.
3. Return onion mixture and beef
to pot. Add 3½ cups broth, stout,
parsley, and thyme, scraping browned
bits from bottom of pot with a
wooden spoon. Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat; cover, reduce
heat, and simmer until beef is tender,
about 1½ hours.
4. In a small bowl, whisk together
flour and remaining ½ cup broth.
Whisk into beef mixture, and bring to
a boil over medium-high heat. Cook
until thickened, about 2 minutes;
reduce heat to medium-low. Add
sweet potato, remaining ½ teaspoon
salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon
pepper. Simmer, uncovered, until
sweet potato is tender, about
25 minutes. Serve with Bacon Brown
Rice. Garnish with parsley, if desired.
*We used Parish Brewing Company
Rêve Coffee Stout.
BACON BROWN RICE
MAKES ABOUT 4⅓ CUPS
4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped
1½ cups brown rice*
3½ cups water
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
1. In a large saucepan, cook bacon
over medium heat until crisp, about
12 minutes. Remove bacon using
a slotted spoon, and let drain on
paper towels, reserving 1 tablespoon
drippings in pot.
2. Add rice to drippings; cook,
stirring frequently, until toasted,
about 3 minutes. Slowly add
3½ cups water, salt, and red pepper.
Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover,
and simmer until rice is tender and
water is absorbed, 45 to 50 minutes.
Remove from heat; let stand for
10 minutes. Add bacon, and fluff with
a fork.
*We used Konriko Natural Long Grain
Brown Rice.
BEANS AND RICE WITH
ANDOUILLE AND CAJUN
CRISPIES
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
(photo on page 68)
This recipe jazzes up lima beans with
andouille sausage, fried eggs, and
Cajun-spiced rice cereal.
2 cups water
1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 bay leaf
1 cup Jazzman rice*
1 cup frozen baby lima beans
2 cups coarsely chopped rainbow
Swiss chard
2 tablespoons cane vinegar
3 cups crisp rice cereal
4 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
1½ teaspoons Cajun seasoning
1 tablespoon canola oil
12 ounces andouille sausage, sliced
¼ inch thick and halved
4 medium eggs
1. In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups
water, 1 teaspoon salt, and bay
leaf to a boil. Add rice and beans;
return to a boil. Reduce heat to
medium-low; cover and simmer until
liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes.
Remove from heat. Let stand for
10 minutes. Add Swiss chard
and vinegar; fluff with a fork.
Discard bay leaf.
2. Preheat oven to 350°.
3. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss
together cereal, melted butter, and
Cajun seasoning.
4. Bake until golden brown and crisp,
8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway
through baking. Let cool completely.
Coarsely crush.
5. In a large skillet, heat oil over
medium heat. Add andouille; cook
until browned, about 8 minutes.
Remove andouille using a slotted
spatula, and let drain on paper towels,
reserving 1 tablespoon drippings in
skillet.
6. Crack eggs into drippings; sprinkle
with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook
until whites are firm and yolks are not
set, about 5 minutes, or to desired
degree of doneness. Top beans and
rice with eggs, andouille, and crushed
cereal.
*We used Jazzmen Rice.
Note: Remaining crispy rice topping
may be stored in an airtight container
for up to 2 weeks.
 LOUISIANA’S
BEST
KING CAKES
P
articularly in New Orleans, where
spirited debates about the best po’
boys, dark roux gumbos, and crispy
fried chicken can get quite heated, there
is one thing nearly everyone can generally
agree on: king cake. Once you get past that
broad stroke, though, factions develop over
the relative merits of different Randazzo
family cakes versus Haydel’s, Gambino’s,
and countless other sprinkle-studded
stalwarts. Still more will wax nostalgic over
the loss of McKenzie’s bakery, whose bready,
slightly less sweet cakes loom large in their
childhood Mardi Gras memories.
Over the past few years, the king cake
game has entered a decidedly new phase,
with more and more players entering the
arena. The classic king cakes have been
joined by galettes des rois (also traditionally
French but newer to Louisiana) and a host
of confections with varying shapes, wild
fillings, and colorful tops. Our mameres
may not have imagined a boudin king cake
topped with cracklin’s and cane syrup, but it
is now an option, and we’re not upset about it.
There are only seven full weeks of
Carnival season this year, so we’d suggest
making a game plan for your king cake
enjoyment to ensure you get enough of your
old favorites while leaving room for a few
new additions. Laissez les bon temps rouler!
 LOWDER BAKING CO.
1 Shreveport
Preston and Sarah Lowder started Lowder King
Cakes by making king cakes out of their home kitchen,
and following a successful 2018 Carnival season,
they expanded to become Lowder Baking Company,
opening their first brick-and-mortar location last
year in Shreveport’s South Highlands neighborhood.
At their storefront bakery, the Shreveport natives
offer freshly baked breads, cinnamon rolls, cookies,
and more. A hot commodity during Carnival season,
Lowder king cakes are available in traditional and
cream cheese flavors as well as rotating daily flavors
such as blueberries and cream.
lowderbakingcompany.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 72


4
LEVEE BAKING CO.
2 New Orleans
Christina Balzebre started selling naturally
leavened breads in 2015, and over the past
few years, her Queen Cake (an almond-and-
puff pastry galette de rois) has developed a
cult following at the Crescent City Farmers
Market. From her new bakeshop on
Magazine Street, she will continue selling a
limited number of these cakes during Mardi
Gras with a special edition fêve. Slices will
be offered as well but ordering in advance is
highly recommended. leveebakingco.com
73 louisianacookin.com
2 3
CALUDA’S KING CAKE
3 Harahan
For more than 35 years, Caluda’s has made
a name for itself not just with its traditional
cake but for offering a myriad of flavors. In
2018 and 2019, Caluda’s topped the charts
of the King Cake Snob awards for their pecan
praline and apple fillings, respectively. One of
the other aspects that makes this bakery a
winner is that they not only ship their cakes
around the country but also offer specialty
king cakes throughout the year (just in case a
craving strikes). kingcakeshop.com
DONG PHUONG
4 New Orleans
This Vietnamese bakery known for its French
bread causes a king cake frenzy come
Carnival time. Demand for its scalloped,
brioche-style king cakes grew so large in
2018 (the year Dong Phuong won James
Beard’s America’s Classics Award) that the
bakery had to cease delivery to wholesale
outlets and only sell the cakes from its New
Orleans East location. Last year, Dong Phuong
offered preorders for pickup or shipping in
addition to walk-ins. dpbakeshop.com
 LA PETITE SOPHIE
5 River Ridge
A short drive from New Orleans proper, king cake aficionados will find this
sweet little bakeshop run by Jeff and Lya Becnel. This European-inspired spot
offers three exceptional varieties of king cake: a Creole cream cheese-topped
brioche, a buttery galette des rois, and their signature kouign amann. For
the uninitiated, a kouign amann (pronounced kween uh-mahn) is a Breton
pastry known for its buttery, flaky layers and crunchy caramelized sugar top.
In addition to their River Ridge location, their pastries can be found at the
German Coast Farmers’ Market (Saturdays) and the Metry Market at the
Park (every other Friday). lapetitesophie.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 74

 DISTRICT DONUTS. SLIDERS. BREW.
6 6 New Orleans & Baton Rouge
Since its 2013 launch in New Orleans’ Garden District,
District Donuts has grown to have four locations around
the Crescent City, one in Baton Rouge, and one in Las
Vegas, Nevada. This year, they will be showing off two king
cakes: one in the much-loved McKenzie’s style and another
with Danish-style dough filled with Creole cream cheese.
In addition to serving them in their stores, District will ship
them across the country for revelers who can’t make the
trip to Louisiana. districtdonuts.com

POUPART BAKERY
7 Lafayette
For more than 50 years, the Poupart family has been
baking French pastries, Old-World French breads, cakes,
and more in Lafayette. The bakery offers two styles of king
cake: a traditional galette des rois with almond cream filling
and an iced and sugared brioche king cake that can be
customized with fillings such as cream cheese, fruits, and
nuts. Poupart king cakes are available in-store and can be
shipped through online orders. poupartsbakery.com

CAJUN PECAN HOUSE

8 Cut Off
A bit more than an hour’s drive from New Orleans, king
cake enthusiasts will find Cajun Pecan House. This quaint
shop bakes cakes, candies, and cookies each day but also
offers a selection of collectibles and home décor. They
are best-known for their sweet Cinnamon Pecan King
Cake. Throughout Carnival season, Cajun Pecan House
ships their famous cakes, including an option that offers a
selection of beads, doubloons, and a porcelain mask.
cajunpecanhouse.com

7 8

75 louisianacookin.com
 8 BLOCK ADDENDUM & PATISSERIE
9 New Orleans
Located on the third floor of the Hyatt Regency New Orleans, this recently
relaunched bakery offers one-of-a-kind desserts created by pastry chef
Milan Smith. Milan won Most Unique King Cake at the 2018 King Cake
Festival with his Key Lime Croissant King Cake. This Carnival season, he
has created a variety of flavors to be the official king cake of a local krewe.
King cakes in specialty flavors such as tiramisù will be sold at 8 Block
throughout the season. neworleans.hyatt.com

RÖSCH BAKEHAUS
10 Baton Rouge
This cottage bakery was started by
James “Jim” Osborne IV in 2014 after a
trip to Germany inspired him to recreate
Bavarian pretzels. Today, Jim and partner
Melodie Reay also make naturally leavened
sourdoughs and pastries, as well as small-
batch brioche king cakes and galettes des
rois made with natural ingredients. Flavors
such as Raspberry Rose Frangipane and
Meyer Lemon IPA rotate weekly and are
inspired by ingredients like local produce and
craft beers. Customers can get their hands
on a Rösch king cake by placing an order
online and picking up at Glassell Gallery in
the Shaw Center. roschbakehaus.com 

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 76

BY T H E BO O K
 Louisiana
HEART OF THE CAJUN PRAIRIE
JO IE D E VI VRE —A L I TT LE J OY OF L I VI NG

APRIL 25-26, 2020

18 TH
ANNUAL CAJUN WOODSTOCK
BENEFIT FOR ST. JUDE HOSPITAL
1 0 0 E AS T DA R BO N NE ST RE ET
C H URCH PO I NT, LA
337.2 80 .87 10
cajunwoodstock.com | woodstock4stjude@aol.com

MAY 13-16, 2020

48 TH FROG FESTIVAL
2 06 F ROG FES T IVA L D R I VE
G OS S EN M EMOR I A L PAR K
R AYNE , LA
337 . 334. 2 332
raynefrogfestival.com | info@raynefrogfestival@gmail.com

ACA DI A PA RI S H TOURIS T C OMMISS I ON

877.783.2109 | aptc@bellsouth.net | www.acadiatourism.org
BY STW
H EE EBO
TS O K

DIVINE
DESSERT
recipe development by laura crandall | styling by sidney bragiel

WARM, FRUIT-FILLED COBBLER is the perfect dessert for any season, and during late winter,
we like making it with fresh, first-of-the-season strawberries. This easy-to-make version is topped
with crunchy almonds for an irresistible flavor. Serve it with some fluffy whipped cream for the
ultimate treat, or pair it with a scoop of ice cream once we get into the warmer spring months.

STRAWBERRY ALMOND COBBLER Add almond extract, and using your hands,
MAKES 7 SERVINGS gently toss strawberries until sugar mixture is
completely moistened. Spread into an 8-inch
This bright, juicy strawberry cobbler has an incredibly square baking dish; cover with foil.
tender biscuit topping and gets an added crunch 4. Bake for 20 minutes, stirring halfway through
from sliced almonds. baking.
5. Meanwhile, in another large bowl, whisk
2 pounds fresh strawberries, hulled and together flour, baking powder, salt, and remaining
quartered (about 7½ cups) 2 tablespoons sugar. Using a pastry blender or
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided, plus 2 forks, cut in butter until mixture is crumbly.
more for sprinkling 6. In a small bowl, whisk together milk and egg.
2 tablespoons cornstarch Using a fork, stir milk mixture into flour mixture
1 teaspoon almond extract just until dry ingredients are moistened.
1 cup all-purpose flour 7. Remove strawberries from oven, and stir, being
1½ teaspoons baking powder sure to stir in any thickened juices at bottom of
½ teaspoon kosher salt pan. Using a 3-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop,
¼ cup cold unsalted butter, cubed drop dough onto strawberries. Sprinkle dough
¼ cup whole milk with almonds and sugar.
1 large egg 8. Bake until biscuits are golden brown and filling
2 tablespoons sliced almonds is bubbly, about 20 minutes. (Filling will bubble
Soft whipped cream, to serve up during the last few minutes of baking. To ensure
no juices spill in your oven, slide a sheet of foil
1. Preheat oven to 400°. on oven rack below or at bottom of oven.) Serve
2. In a large bowl, place strawberries. warm with whipped cream.
3. In a small bowl, stir together ⅓ cup sugar and
cornstarch, and sprinkle onto strawberries.

79 louisianacookin.com
Q U I C K & E ASY

SHEET PAN SHRIMP

recipe development by tricia manzanero | styling by lucy finney

WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING DINNER on the table on a busy weeknight, sheet pan suppers are one of
the quickest ways to get it done. With minimal prep and easy cleanup, this roasted shrimp recipe is a fantastic and
delicious option to help you save time.

ROASTED SHRIMP, FENNEL,
AND CITRUS
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
This simple meal is packed with the
season’s best flavors.
2 bulbs fennel (about 2¾ to
3 pounds), fronds removed and
reserved, cored and cut
lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick
wedges
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
2½ teaspoons Cajun seasoning*,
divided
1 teaspoon lemon pepper
1 large orange, halved and cut
crosswise into ¼-inch-thick
slices, seeds removed
1 medium lemon, halved and cut
crosswise into ¼-inch-thick
slices, seeds removed
2 pounds jumbo fresh shrimp,
peeled and deveined (tails left on)
½ teaspoon orange zest
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 teaspoons Creole mustard
1 clove garlic, grated
1. Preheat oven to 425°.
2. Spray 2 rimmed baking sheets with
cooking spray. Chop enough fennel
fronds to measure 2 tablespoons,
reserving remainder for garnish.
Place fennel, orange, and lemon on
prepared pans.
3. In a small bowl, stir together
chopped fennel fronds, 3 tablespoons
oil, oregano, thyme, 2 teaspoons
Cajun seasoning, and lemon pepper.
Reserve 1 tablespoon fennel frond
mixture; toss remaining fennel frond
mixture with fennel-citrus mixture.
4. Bake for 20 minutes, stirring and
rotating pans halfway through baking.
5. Toss shrimp with reserved fennel
frond mixture; place on top of fennel-
citrus mixture.
6. Bake until shrimp are pink and
firm, 5 to 7 minutes.
7. In a small bowl, whisk together
orange zest and juice, mustard,
garlic, remaining 3 tablespoons oil,
and remaining ½ teaspoon Cajun
seasoning. Serve immediately with
shrimp-fennel mixture. Garnish with
reserved fennel fronds, if desired.
*We used Slap Ya Mama Cajun Seasoning.
 www.laeggs.com
Louisiana Department of
Agriculture & Forestry
Mike Strain DVM Commissioner

Shakshuka
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 40 minutes
Makes: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS DIRECTIONS
4 large EGGS 1. HEAT olive oil over medium high heat until hot. ADD
3 Tbsp. olive oil onion, yellow pepper and garlic. COOK and STIR 5-7
1½ Tbsp. onion, diced minutes until onions begin to brown. REDUCE heat to
1½ cup yellow bell pepper, diced medium, continue to COOK until bell pepper is softened.
1½ Tbsp. garlic, minced 2. ADD cumin, chipotle, salt, tomato paste, diced tomatoes,
1 tsp ground cumin green chilies and water and bring to a boil. ADD chorizo,
1 tsp chipotle seasoning REDUCE heat and SIMMER, uncovered for 10 minutes.
½ tsp salt 3. MAKE 4 evenly spaced impressions in sauce and break
2 Tbsp. tomato paste an egg into each impression. COVER pan, REDUCE heat
2 cans diced tomatoes with liquid (14.5 oz. cans) to low. COOK 6-8 minutes or until eggs are done to your
1 can diced green chilies, drained preference.
1 cup chorizo sausage, cooked 4. REMOVE from heat, SPRINKLE with cheese, and
¼ cup water cilantro. DIVIDE shashuka evenly between 4 bowls.
¼ cup queso fresco SERVE in bowls with corn tortillas.
¼ cup chopped cilantro
1 avocado, sliced
4 to
corn tortillas

INSIDER INFORMATION
A rustic artisan or pita bread can be substituted for the tortillas – use for dipping in the eggs and tomato sauce.
Once
On the eggs have been broken into the sauce, use a fork to swirl the egg whites a bit to contain them in their space.

NUTRITION INFORM
INFORMATION: Per Serving: 1⁄4 of recipe; Calories: 488; Total fat: 29g; Saturated fat: 8g; Polyunsaturated fat: 3g; Monounsaturated fat: 13.1g;
Cholesterol: 220mg; Sodium: 1527mg; Carbohydrates: 39g; Fiber: 8g; Sugar: 10g; Protein: 20g; Vitamin A: 113mcg; Vitamin D: 1mcg; Folate: 126mcg;
Choline: 156mg; Calcium: 220mg; Iron: 4mg; Potassium: 622mg. This recipe is an excellent source of protein, folate, and choline, and a good source of vitamin A.
LO CAL PAN T RY

JAMBALAYA GIRL
by nora mcgunnigle

IN FEBRUARY 2010, during what Kristen “Jambalaya “It’s my likeness, it’s my nickname, and it all ties
Girl” Preau Moore calls her “magic month,” her company together with my love for New Orleans,” Kristen says.
Cook Me Somethin’ Mister launched and her beloved “Then there’s the stuff you don’t even think about, like
New Orleans Saints won their first Super Bowl. [the fact that] Cook Me Somethin’ Mister is way too long
Kristen’s packaged jambalaya rice mix was selling for a shelf label. So, it’s cute, people remember it, and it
well, due to its authentic flavors—the spices are sourced embodies what I’m about, and it tells a story.”
from Paul Prudhomme’s Magic Seasoning Company, She notes that while people often automatically
which is also the company’s packaging partner—and the assume that any food coming from New Orleans is
flat-out hustle of Kristen and her family. spicy, her mix has a more balanced flavor and has even
“We’ve served hundreds of thousands of samples been proclaimed as “kid-friendly” by the mommy
over the years,” Kristen says, including at local festivals, blogosphere. The mix is also vegetarian-friendly, using a
Saints tailgates, and grocery stores. dried vegan beef-flavored stock to season the rice.
But her product didn’t reach its full potential until “It’s all about getting the best, well-rounded flavor,”
she changed the name of the company. Kristen says. “If you get too much heat, you burn your
“Outside of New Orleans, [customers] couldn’t mouth and you don’t enjoy it.”
remember the name Cook Me Somethin’ Mister,” she Fueled by the success of the flagship product,
says. “People were literally calling it ‘that jambalaya with Jambalaya Girl has released other boxed mixes: a gumbo
the girl with the fork earrings.’” mix with a dry, toasted roux; a low-
When the New Orleans sodium brown rice mix created through
native had the opportunity to partnerships with public schools; and
work on her marketing plan with a yellow rice mix with the addition of
professionals from Goldman turmeric and saffron, which Kristen says
Sachs and Bloomberg, she was is “just delicious New Orleans flavor
immediately asked, “Why isn’t blended into a classic dish.”
your business name Jambalaya She says there are several New
Girl?” Since changing her name Orleans restaurants that use her
and branding in 2016, the jambalaya box mix as the base for
company’s annual gross income dishes they serve, but only two can be
has increased by 250 percent publicly identified: Parkway Bakery &
through contracts with large Tavern and Ye Olde College Inn, both
grocery chains like Publix, local institutions. For the other users,
Costco, and Sam’s Club. one can only speculate.

Nora McGunnigle is a freelance writer focusing on food, drink, travel, and culture in New Orleans and the Gulf South. You can follow her at
beerfoodtravels.com.

83 louisianacookin.com
 WHERE TO FIND IT

IN STORES
Rouses
Publix
Winn-Dixie

ONLINE
jambalayagirl.com

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 84

JAMBALAYA FRITTERS WITH
RÉMOULADE SAUCE
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
These fritters are a satisfying starter for
any party.
1 (16-ounce) package ground mild
pork sausage
2½ cups plus 2 tablespoons water,
divided
1 (8-ounce) package Jambalaya
Girl® Jambalaya Rice Mix
8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese
with peppers, shredded
2¾ cups panko (Japanese bread
crumbs), divided
4 large eggs, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
parsley
4 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
Vegetable oil, for frying
½ cup all-purpose flour
Rémoulade Sauce (recipe follows),
to serve
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley
1. In a medium Dutch oven, cook
sausage over medium-high heat until
browned and crumbly, about
8 minutes; using a slotted spoon,
85 louisianacookin.com
transfer sausage to a shallow pan,
reserving drippings in pot.
2. Add 2½ cups water to drippings,
and bring to a boil, scraping browned
bits from bottom of pot with a
wooden spoon. Stir in rice mix.
Return to a boil; reduce heat to
medium-low, and simmer, stirring
occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove
from heat; cover and let stand for
30 minutes.
3. Add rice to pan with sausage; let
cool for 10 minutes. Stir in cheese,
¾ cup bread crumbs, 2 eggs, parsley,
and thyme. Using a ¼-cup spring-
loaded scoop, scoop rice mixture, and
shape into balls.
4. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil
to a depth of 2 inches; heat over
medium-high heat until a deep-fry
thermometer registers 350°.
5. In a shallow dish, place flour. In
another shallow dish, whisk together
remaining 2 eggs and remaining
2 tablespoons water. In another
shallow dish, place remaining 2 cups
bread crumbs. Dredge each ball in
flour; dip in egg mixture, and dredge
in bread crumbs.
6. Fry balls in batches, stirring
occasionally, until golden brown,
about 2 minutes. Remove using
a spider strainer, and let drain on
paper towels. Serve immediately
with Rémoulade Sauce. Garnish with
parsley, if desired.
RÉMOULADE SAUCE
MAKES 1 CUP
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon minced green onion
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
2 teaspoons dill pickle relish
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons hot sauce
1 clove garlic, grated
1. In a small bowl, combine all
ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for
up to 3 days.
SLOW COOKER GUMBO INSTRUCTIONS
(For 1 – 4 oz. Gumbo Mix)

1. Add chicken and sausage to slow cooker.

2. Add 4 cups water to slow cooker.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk Gumbo Mix with
remaining 2 cups water until Mix is dissolved.
4. Add Gumbo mixture to slow cooker and mix well.
5. Cook on HIGH for 3.5 hours or on LOW for
7.5 hours.
6. Shout “yum yum, come get you some!”
Stir and serve over rice.

INSTANT POT GUMBO INSTRUCTIONS

(For 1 – 4 oz. Gumbo Mix)

1. Cook Chicken & Sausage in Instant Pot on

Saute Setting.
2. Add 2.5 cups water to Instant Pot.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk Gumbo Mix with
remaining 2 cups water until Mix is dissolved.
4. Add Gumbo mixture to Instant Pot and mix well.
5. Put lid on, set valve to Sealing.
6. Set to Soup Mode.
7. When Soup Mode is done, carefully turn valve to
Venting for quick release.
8. Shout “yum yum, come get you some!”
Stir and serve over rice.

Gumbo Base with Roux Mix is only

1 WW SmartPoint per serving!

JAMBALAYAGIRL.COM
504.233.4481
BY T H E BO O K
THE NEW ORLEANS
KITCHEN
by paul a. greenberg
YOU MAY NOTICE a common theme running
through a number of chefs’ cookbooks, one that could
be described as “philosophy of life.” Consider Justin
Devillier, well-known New Orleans restaurant chef. In
his new cookbook, The New Orleans Kitchen (Lorena
Jones Books, 2019), Justin ostensibly focuses simply on
food. But read between the lines and you’re likely to pick
up a few valuable life lessons.
“Cooking is about a combination of thoughtfulness
and intuition,” Justin writes. “Once you have the
technique in place, you can start to go off script.”
Waxing philosophically may not have been his
intention, but Justin manages to put forth some wisdom
among the 120 recipes in this book. A guy who can make
a serious roux and impart some profound thoughts at the
same time? Delightful.
There is a certain humility in Justin’s tome. A man
almost 40 years of age who manages to confine his life
BLUE CRAB AND
TOMATO SALAD
Paul A. Greenberg is an inveterate local diner who has covered the New Orleans restaurant scene for more than 25 years.
87 louisianacookin.com
story in just the
first few pages may
strike you as modest,
but the truth is,
Justin’s real passion
is food. A 2016
James Beard Award
winner for Best
Chef: South, Justin
owns and operates
two successful
restaurants. With
this book, the chef ’s
stated purpose is simply “teaching you how to find the
true pleasure of cooking New Orleans style, at home.”
Justin and his co-author, Jamie Feldmar, accomplish
this through simple, straightforward recipes for sauces,
appetizers, side dishes, salads, soups, seafood, poultry,
meat, and desserts. (Café au lait ice cream,
anyone? Yes, please.) Pan-roasted chicken thighs
take a twist with tangerine marmalade, and root
beer-braised short ribs pop with a spicy ginger
dressing. Cornbread pancakes take a primitive
turn with paddlefish caviar. Classic New Orleans
seafood dishes get Devillier-ized, typified by
the chef ’s barbecued shrimp, rich and messy as
ever, but here, they are given a Southeast Asian
treatment.
Through it all, the flavors are complex, but
the preparations are not. If Justin cannot make
it into every New Orleans kitchen, his cookbook
certainly can, and should.
BAKED OYSTERS WITH
GREENS, BACON, AND
PARMESAN
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
Recipe adapted from The New Orleans
Kitchen, Lorena Jones Books, 2019
This decadent oyster recipe uses a rich
compound butter with greens, cheese,
and bacon to impart some serious flavor.
3 pounds rock salt
24 large fresh oysters in shell
½ cup unsalted butter, room
temperature
1 cup cooked greens (chard,
spinach, or mustard greens),
coarsely chopped
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup coarsely chopped cooked
bacon
¼ cup minced fresh chives
Juice of 3 lemons
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper,
to taste
1. Preheat oven to 450˚.
2. Fill 2 (13x9-inch) ceramic or cast-
iron baking dishes halfway with rock
salt, and place in oven to preheat for
30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, scrub oyster shells, and
open, discarding tops. Run a knife under
meat of oyster to release from shells.
4. In a large bowl, stir butter until
creamy; add greens, cheese, bacon,
chives, lemon juice, garlic, and thyme,
and fold until well combined. Season
with kosher salt and pepper.
5. Carefully arrange oysters on rock
salt in preheated pans, and top each
with a heaping tablespoonful of
compound butter.
6. Bake until edges of oysters are
slightly curled and butter is melted,
4 to 7 minutes. Serve in hot pans with
cocktail forks.
CO O K I N G W I T H
C H E FS TO WATC H

LOVE FOR LOCAL

THROUGHOUT CHEF GABRIEL BALDERAS’ cooking career,
he has prioritized serving the freshest, most local ingredients he could
find. In 2016, he and his wife, Brooke, opened El Cabo Verde in south
Shreveport, and it’s been so successful that he plans to open another
restaurant—Zuzul Coastal Cuisine—in the near future. Gabriel’s bright,
fresh Mexican flavors stand out distinctly against the area’s standard
Tex-Mex fare.
Since Louisiana cuisine is, by its very nature, a fusion of the cultures
of people who have settled here throughout the years, it is terrific to see
that his commitment to serving fresh Gulf seafood and supporting local
ranchers and farmers has been embraced by the community.
Gabriel’s new restaurant Zuzul will double down on the aspects that
made El Cabo Verde such a success and help spread his gospel of simple,
straightforward cooking that highlights local ingredients, particularly
seafood from the Gulf of Mexico. Here, we’ve gotten Gabriel to spill the
beans on how he serves sweet Gulf shrimp with a kicked-up rémoulade.

Q Why do you like to cook with Louisiana shrimp?

El Cabo Verde
1023 Provenance Place Blvd. • Shreveport
318.603.3167 • elcaboverde.com
Q Tell us a little bit about this version of shrimp rémoulade.
It’s important to support your local fishermen and the local economy.
It’s best to get whole, head-on shrimp for the best flavor and then
you can utilize the whole shrimp. You can cook them whole and then
make a sauce or a stock with the shells.
The dish—it’s a very simple dish—is Louisiana shrimp with seasonal
vegetables and a fresh rémoulade sauce that I garnish with edible
blooms. We grow small cherry tomatoes and peppers at the restaurant,
but I think we used strawberry blooms in this picture.

Q How much shrimp do you think is appropriate for one portion?

When I’m cooking, I try to figure out an average amount per person,
and at the restaurant, we’ve found that an average of eight to nine
whole shrimp is about right (that’s about 6 to 7 ounces of peeled
shrimp). We typically use large or extra-large shrimp. For an appetizer,
I’d say 3 to 4 ounces.

89 louisianacookin.com
Q How has El Cabo Verde changed since its
opening?
It opened about three and a half years ago. We
have changed, and the menu has changed. Our
dishes have come to incorporate more local
ingredients. In the beginning, we had local
meat farmers, but we didn’t have a whole lot of
vegetables. Now we have more local vegetables.
Now we have a mushroom guy for wild and
foraged mushrooms. We have another person
with greens.
Of course, there are some staples that we
have to have for our customers here, but the
food is becoming even more locally focused. I
feel like our customers like things toward the
spicier end. Since we started, we found that our
customers crave and want that.

Q Is there a standout dish that's been the most

popular?
The mole I’d say is the most popular with
people. People call us to make sure we haven’t
sold out of it. A lot of our seafood dishes have
done very well, too. Our customers travel to eat
with us, so I feel like they come here knowing
what they want, whether it’s a vegetarian plate
or chicken or mole. I feel like they’re coming to
us because they love what we do. We’re probably
the only full-service restaurant in this area.
That’s played a big role in shaping the concept ABOVE: Gabriel sources, cooks, and grinds fresh corn to make his
over the last few years. own corn tortillas for dishes at El Cabo Verde.

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 90


SAUTÉED SHRIMP AND
WINTER VEGETABLES WITH
RÉMOULADE SAUCE
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Recipe courtesy of Chef Gabriel Balderas
The flavors of Gulf shrimp and seasonal
vegetables shine in this simple dish.
1 cup diced sweet potato
1 cup diced carrot
1 cup diced kabocha squash
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons
Arbequina olive oil, divided
¼ cup fresh parsley
4 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
91 louisianacookin.com
1 pound jumbo fresh shrimp,
peeled and deveined (tails left on)
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup chopped green onion
1 shallot, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
Rémoulade Sauce (recipe follows)
Garnish: olive oil, thyme, edible
flowers
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil
over medium-high heat; add sweet
potato. Return to a boil; immediately
remove sweet potatoes using a slotted
spoon, and transfer to an ice water
bath to stop the cooking process.
Repeat procedure with carrot and
squash.
2. In the container of a blender, place
1 cup oil, parsley, 4 cloves garlic,
½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon black
pepper to taste; blend on high speed
for 1 to 2 minutes. In a large bowl,
toss oil mixture and shrimp.
3. In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons
oil over medium heat. Using a slotted
spoon, place shrimp in skillet. Cook
shrimp until pink and firm, 2 to
3 minutes. Remove from heat, and
sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and
cayenne. Set shrimp aside.
4. Wipe skillet clean. Add remaining
3 tablespoons olive oil, and heat over
medium-high heat. Add sweet potato,
carrot, squash, green onion, shallot,
and minced garlic. Cook until fragrant
and vegetables have softened, 8 to
10 minutes.
5. Serve vegetables and shrimp with
Rémoulade Sauce. Garnish with oil,
thyme, and edible flowers, if desired.
RÉMOULADE SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
3 egg yolks, room temperature
4 ounces lemon juice, divided
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sugar
2 cups Arbequina olive oil
¼ cup water
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon capers
½ hard-cooked egg, grated
1. In the work bowl of a food
processor, combine egg yolks,
2 ounces lemon juice, mustard, salt,
and sugar; process until smooth,
about 30 seconds. With processor
running, pour oil through food
chute in a slow, steady stream until
rémoulade sets up to the consistency
of mayonnaise. Add remaining
2 ounces lemon juice, and pulse to
combine. Transfer mixture to a bowl;
stir in ¼ cup water, parsley, capers,
and grated egg. Refrigerate until
ready to use.
Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 92
S W I Z Z L E ST I C K
CARNIVAL COLOR
story and recipe by kirk estopinal | photography by john o’hagan
SINCE IT RARELY gets consistently cold enough,
New Orleans isn’t really a mulled wine city. This
Red Wine Daiquiri gives you a good New Orleans
version of a very heady cold weather drink. While it’s
never exactly been on the menu at Cane & Table, it’s
something we keep in our back pocket for someone
looking for an interesting cocktail. This drink is
inspired by an alum of Violet Hour in Chicago, Illinois.
I thought it was a good idea for how to use red wine in
a shaken drink since you don’t come across that very
Kirk Estopinal is a Partner of New Orleans’ James Beard Award-winning bar Cure and beloved Caribbean restaurant and bar Cane & Table.
Kirk currently lives in historic Algiers Point in New Orleans with his wife and two children.
93 louisianacookin.com
much. Sangria is the only red wine cocktail most people
know about.
I like to use Spanish wines in this drink and suggest
looking for a grenache (garnacha in Spanish). They’re
affordable, readily available, and always nice and fruity,
with minimal tannins. You want a little bit of tannin, but
nothing big and chewy like a malbec or a crazy, over-
oaked American cabernet. Always look for something
that’s like an everyday drink. Nothing that you’d call
“amazing” after every sip but something you’d want to
drink. You could use a more fruit-driven pinot noir, like
something from Oregon with that Dr Pepper vibe, but
just remember: nothing too aged, nothing too woody.
The other thing about this recipe is the rum. You can
use any white rum, but I like Banks 5 Island because it’s a
little more complex and aromatic than some of the other
white rums on the market. Any three- or five-island rum
will be really good, though—and you can still use Don
Q or Bacardi if you want to, but it would be a little less
complex. Marsh House, which is made in Louisiana, is
pretty good with this, too. It’s got some similar notes to the
Banks, and to me, it really tastes like the original Bacardi
Carta Blanca, where you take a funkier rum and a milder
rum, age them separately, and then blend them together.
This is basically a simple daiquiri build except you’re
cutting the alcohol down and adding the red wine. In
my personal and professional opinion, I think a lot of
cocktails are just too strong. We’re always looking for
ways to cut the alcohol content on a drink and make it
more interesting. It also allows people to have one or two
or three without feeling all broke up.
 RED WINE DAIQUIRI
MAKES 1 SERVING

“Being in New Orleans, I always

need to have a good purple-ish
cocktail on hand. Whether it’s for
Mardi Gras, LSU, or Loyola, I’ve
been making these red wine sours
at Cure since the early days.”

1 ounce fruity Spanish red wine

1 ounce Banks 5 Island Rum
(see note)
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice
½ ounce Cinnamon Syrup
(recipe follows)
1 teaspoon simple syrup
Garnish: lemon twist, fresh mint
sprig

1. In a cocktail shaker, combine

wine, rum, lemon juice, Cinnamon
Syrup, and simple syrup. Fill with
large ice cubes, cover, and shake
until cold. Strain into a cold coupe
glass. Garnish with lemon twist and
mint sprig, if desired.

Note: Any three- or five-island

rum will work well in this cocktail,
including Plantation Three Stars and
Louisiana-made Marsh House.

CINNAMON SYRUP
MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS

1½ cinnamon sticks
(about ½ ounce)
1 cup water
¾ cup sugar

1. Wrap cinnamon sticks in a

kitchen towel, and hit with a heavy
skillet until broken up.
2. In a small stockpot, bring 1 cup
water to a boil over high heat.
Add cinnamon sticks, and remove
from heat. Let stand until water
is light brown, about 15 minutes.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve
lined with cheesecloth, and discard
solids.
3. Add sugar to reserved liquid,
and stir until sugar is dissolved.
Transfer to a clean jar, and refrigerate
until ready to use or for up to
2 weeks.

Louisiana Cookin’ | January/February 2020 94

 INDEX &
R ESO U RC ES

Recipe Index
Appetizers
Baked Oysters with Greens, Bacon,
and Parmesan, 88
Cracklin’ Deviled Eggs, 43
Crawfish Queso, 43
Jambalaya Fritters with
Rémoulade Sauce, 85
Beverages
Cinnamon Syrup, 94
Citrus-Infused Corpse Reviver #2, 28
Grapefruit-Orange Gin, 28
Red Wine Daiquiri, 94
Breads
Crawfish and Goat Cheese King Cake, 61
Jalapeño Havarti Biscuits, 43
Desserts
Cinnamon-Cream Cheese King Cake, 49
Cream Cheese Frosting, 49
King Cake Dough, 49
Nectar Cream King Cake, 49
Salted Caramel and Chocolate
King Cake, 50
Salted Caramel Sauce, 50
Strawberry Almond Cobbler, 79
Meat, Game, and Poultry
Beans and Rice with Andouille and
Cajun Crispies, 70
BellaCopper
Solid Copper Heat
Diffusers &
Defroster Plates
Blackened Chicken with
Herb-Pecan Rice, 69
Roasted Citrus Chicken with
Creole Mustard Sauce, 27
Sweet Tea Oven-Fried Chicken, 44
Sauces, Seasonings, and Condiments
Citrus Relish, 25
Creole Sauce, 30
Pickled Shallots, 23
Rémoulade Sauce, 85
Rémoulade Sauce, 91
Seafood
Citrus Courtbouillon, 25
Roasted Shrimp and Mirliton Slaw over
Lemon Purple Rice, 69
Roasted Shrimp, Fennel, and Citrus, 81
Sautéed Shrimp and Winter Vegetables
with Rémoulade Sauce, 91
RESOURCES
Spillin’ the Beans: Photos courtesy of
Denny Culbert (Acorn, page 11); The
Sazerac House (page 11); The Vintage
(page 11); Junior’s on Harrison (page
15); Leisuremann’s (page 15); Mike
Hartnett (Mawí Tortillas, page 17); Link
Stryjewski Foundation (Bal Masqué,
page 19); and Shreveport-Bossier
Convention and Visitors Bureau (Krewe
of Harambee, page 19).
Louisiana Foodways: Pages 31–32:
Photos courtesy of Dwight Jodon,
David Simpson, and St. Landry Parish
Tourist Commission.
Culinary Royalty: Pages 59–61:
Cook-off photos courtesy of Louisiana
Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board.
Best King Cakes: Photos courtesy
of Christina Balzebre (Levee Baking
Co., page 73); Caluda’s (page 73);
Snapper King Creole, 30
Soups, Stews, and Gumbos
The 5-Pound Gumbo, 57
Beef-Stout Stew with
Bacon Brown Rice, 69
Chicken and Tasso Gumbo, 58
Duck and Andouille Gumbo, 57
Gumbo z’Herbes, 57
Red Beans and Cauliflower Rice, 23
Red Beans and Rice, 43
Spicy Beef Gumbo, 58
Vegetables and Side Dishes
Bacon Brown Rice, 70
Creamy Creole Coleslaw, 43
Creamy Potato Salad, 56
Herb-Pecan Rice, 69
Lemon Purple Rice, 69
Yvette Jemison (Dong Phuong, page 73);
La Petite Sophie (page 74); Melodie
Reay and James Osborne IV (Rösch
Bakehaus, page 76); and Aaliyah Shareef
(8 Block Addendum & Patisserie, page 76).
Local Pantry: Photos courtesy of Pat
Garin Photographer (products, page 83)
and Cheryl Gerber (portrait, page 84).
By the Book: Reprinted with permission
from The New Orleans Kitchen by Justin
Devillier with Jamie Feldmar, copyright
© 2019. Published by Lorena Jones
Books, a division of Penguin Random
House, Inc. Photographs copyright
© 2019 by Denny Culbert.
Correction: The photos of Bellegarde
Bakery in our November/December
2018 Local Pantry column should have
been attributed to Denny Culbert. We
apologize for the error.

ROASTED CITRUS CHICKEN

WITH CREOLE
MUSTARD SAUCE,
P. 27

∙ Even heating - no hot spots!

∙ Fantastic as a defroster plate!
∙ They really work—copper
conducts heat better!
∙ A full ⅛th-inch-thick
∙ Since 2002
Order Online
BellaCopper.com

95 louisianacookin.com
 ORDER
TODAY!

Teach your
slow cooker
new tricks
From biscuits and cakes
to hearty soups and suppers,
Slow Cooker Everything! is
packed with easy-to-follow
recipes that make cooking
effortless. Featuring menus,
leftover ideas, and more,
this cookbook is filled with
inspiration and ideas that will
have you rethinking the way
you use your slow cooker.

3 EASY WAYS
TO ORDER
Hoffman Media Store
P.O. Box 8510 • Big Sandy, TX 75755

800-361-8059

tasteofthesouthmagazine.com/slowcooker
 L AG N IAP P E

DURING CARNIVAL SEASON, we just can’t get enough king

cake. With cinnamon-swirled and filled brioche versions (like those
from Randazzo’s Camellia City Bakery, pictured above), French-
inspired galettes de rois, or out-of-the-box creations like boudin
king cake, there is no shortage of ways to get your fill before the
season ends on Fat Tuesday. For more of our favorite king cakes,
visit louisianacookin.com/louisianas-best-king-cakes.