The denim market has been over-saturated for quite sometime now, and designers and retailers have

been looking for a new take on an old classic.  With the trends leaning towards the 1970′s and
Utilitarian Minimalism, it was no surprise to see raw chambray like denim re-introduced on the
runways for Spring.  The lightweight denim serves well for suiting, full trousers and jackets (all taken
from the 70′s), as well as Utilitarian A-line shaped tunics and boxy jackets.  Some of the best
collections from Spring featured this refreshing take on the classic including Celine, Stella McCartney
and Dries Van Noten.  Several other designers showed variations on the theme interpreted into their
own design aesthetics.

NEW DEVELOPMENTS TOWARDS ECONOMICAL AND

ECOLOGICAL
DENIM PROCESSING
USE OF LASER TECHNOLOGY
It is a computer controlled process for denim fading. This technique enables
patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures. In
one
version of this concept, a mask is used to give the desired shape that is to be applied
on
the fabric. The laser projects through a lens system, which expands the beam. This
beam
is passed through the shaped mask that comprises an aperture of the desired shape
and
is then deflected by a mirror to strike the textile substrate. The duration of exposure
determines the final effect on the fabric.
The novelty of this system is that
It is water free fading of denim.
It is an ecological and economical process.
It can create local abrasion and fabric breaks, used look effect, moustache with
excellent reproducibility and higher productivity.
Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.
The design is electronically translated on the fabric, thus avoiding the need for
photolites of serigraphy cleaning.
The machine is very simple and compact, therefore requires very low maintenance
and
cleaning, extremely safe and reliable.
OZONE FADING:
By using this technique, the garment can be bleached. Bleaching of denim garment
is
done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water. Denim garments can also
be
bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber.The advantages
associated
with this process are:
- Colour removal is possible without losing strength.
- This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering,
ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation.
WATERJET FADING:
Hydrojet treatment has been developed for patterning and/or enhancing the surface
finish, texture, durability, and other characteristics of denim garment. Hydroject
treatment
generally involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment through hydrojet
nozzles.
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The degree of colour washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of the resulting fabric
are
related to the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and manner of fluid impact
energy
applied to the fabric. Particularly good results are obtained with blue indigo dyed
denim.
As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution free. By using water
recycling system, the technique can be used as economical and environmental
friendly
denim processing. Color washout of dye in the striped areas produces a faded effect
without blurring, loss of fabric strength or durability, or excessive warp shrinkage.
SPRAY TECHNIQUES
This technique is based on spraying the chemicals or pigments to get different effect
on
the garments. This can be done by using robotic spraying gun or by manual spray
and
followed by curing of the garment.
- It a water free process therefore zero effluent discharge.
- Less time consuming
- Different designs are possible
- Easy to use
- No adverse effect on fabric strength.
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PRESTON UNIVERSITY
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SINGLE BATH STONE WASHING AND TINTING TECHNIQUE
Tinting of denim garment is usually done after the stone wash process. In this,
garment
has been lightly coloured in order to give the final denim appearance a slight shift.
This is
not true over dyeing but merely gives the impression of a change in overall colour of
the
fabric. This process consumes large quantity of water and chemical. To make this
process economical and ecologically friendly, some novel colour based enzymes
have
been introduced in the market. By using this new technique, tinting and stone
washing
effect can be achieved in a single bath.
- Less process time to achieve tinted look.
- No extra chemical required therefore making process more economical.
- Less water consumption.
- Less energy consumption.
- Less chance of patches or unevenness
Alternate of pumice stone
To overcome the shortcoming of pumice stones, synthetic stones have been
developed.
These are made of abrasive material such as silicate, plastic, rubber or Portland
cement.
The advantages of using such type of products are:
- All major problems associated with the use of volcanic grade pumice stone can be
overcome.
- Durability of such product is much higher and can be used repeatedly from 50-300
cycle
depending upon type of synthetic stone.
- Reproducibility of washing is manageable.
- As stone discharge of the process is very less, therefore making process is
economical
and ecological.
- Less damage of machine and garments.
WASTE WATER SOLUTION
As the municipal discharge criteria are restrictive and cost of water high, producers
will
need to reuse the waste water. Many techniques are readily available for a
processor to
treat waste water. The basic limitation of a garment processor is the higher
installation
cost associated with such technique.