Some things improve

with age.

Devil Bunny Some things don’t.

Needs a HAM
Introducing Cheapass
Games Classic Editions.
Games the way they
were meant to be.

As Cheapass Games
morphs into its new
A Cheapass Board Game for 2-5 players incarnation as a more-
or-less-all-free-game
company, we’re doing
our best to bring our
You and your friends are living older games up to date.
pleasant and complete lives in
Happyville. We’ve improved the
graphics, the text, and
the mechanics in some
You are highly trained and of our classic games.
well-paid sous-chefs, who But sometimes, that’s
have decided to climb to just wrong.
the top of a tall building,
as fast as you can. Cheapass Games
Classic Editions are
Devil Bunny Needs a Ham.
nearly picture-perfect
versions of these
And he’s pretty sure that timeless games. We’ve
knocking you off the building made updates around
will help him get one. the edges, but the
glorious originality of
these fine games still
Perhaps he is right. shines through.

If that isn’t enough

Perhaps he is not. to convince you that
what you are holding
is a genuine Cheapass
Item #CAG 018

classic, then we guess

you’ll have to play it.
We think you’ll agree,
these games just can’t
get any better.
You Need: two or three counters for every player,
and two or three 6-sided dice. Cheapass Classics.
Play one again today.

This Cheapass Game is free. That’s right, free. You can print it, copy it, and share it with
your friends. Obviously, if you like it, we’d appreciate a dollar or two in return. We think
this is the best way to get great games into your hands, so please help us make it work.

Yes! I gave Cheapass Games $_________ for this game!

To learn more, read the last page of this document, or visit www.cheapass.com.
 Devil Bunny Needs a Ham
Two-Counter Version:
Players: 3-5
Time: 30 minutes and up
You Need: Two 6-sided dice, two counters for each
player, and a Master Pawn to represent Devil Bunny.
Three-Counter Version:
Players: 2-3
Time: 20 minutes or so
You Need: Three 6-sided dice, three counters for each
player, and a Master Pawn to represent Devil Bunny.
Story: You are a cadre of wily sous-chefs, trying to scale a
very tall building. Devil Bunny is enthusiastically preventing
you from reaching the top because he needs a ham, and
because he erroneously believes that this will help him.
To Begin: Everyone’s counters (their “climbers”) start on
the Ground. The objective is to climb to the roof of the
building, marked “Safety!” Devil Bunny starts on the space
beside the Devil Bunny icon. He will move quasi-randomly,
as described later.
How you Move: Roll all the dice (two or three, depending
on which version you are playing). If you roll any “6’s”
Devil Bunny moves right away. You will then use the rest of
your dice to move your counters, as follows:
1: You can move diagonally or horizontal-
ly, but not straight up or down.
2: Each full move must be in a straight line.
3: You do not have to use the entire move.
4: You can use each die to move a differ-
ent counter, or combine two or more
dice to move a single counter.
5: You can’t move through other players,
or through Devil Bunny.
6: You can’t move into the black squares,
because you fear them.
How Devil Bunny Moves: When you roll a “6,”
Devil Bunny jumps. Put Devil Bunny on the
highest climber on the building, knocking that
climber down.
If there are two climbers on the same level,
Devil Bunny pounces on the one furthest to the
left. If there are no climbers on the building yet,
Devil Bunny doesn’t move. If you roll more than
one “6,” Devil Bunny moves extra times. After
Devil Bunny is done moving, you may use the
rest of your dice to move normally.
Devil Bunny Needs a Ham was designed by James Ernest, with help from E. Jordan Bojar and Toivo Rovainen.
“Classic” edition © 1998, 2011 Cheapass Games • PO Box 15460 Seattle, WA 98115 • www.cheapass.com
Getting Knocked Off: When Devil Bunny pounces on
someone, that climber falls straight down until he hits
another climber, or until he hits the Ground. If he hits
someone, he is “caught.” If he hits the Ground, he might be
killed. (See “The Line of Death.”)
Catching Someone: If someone hits you from directly
overhead, you will catch them. The catching player puts the
fallen climber in any legal space beneath him, as shown in
the diagram below. The choice of placement is up to the
catcher. If the counter gets placed on another climber, that
player catches it, and hands it down again.
Catching Someone:
Put the climber you
catch on one of the
three spaces below you.
Dropping Someone: Sorry, you can’t drop someone. That
would be unsportsmanlike. Instead, make sure not to stop
directly beneath them, so you won’t have to catch them.
The Line of Death: If you fall to the Ground without being
caught, you might live, and you might die. Falling from
below the Line of Death won’t hurt; you’ll just start back on
the Ground. However, an unbroken fall from above the
Line of Death will remove a climber from the game.
Scoring: As climbers reach the top, put each counter on
one letter of the word “Safety!” You get points based on the
letters you cover; i.e., the first counter out earns 23 points,
the next earns 19, and so forth. Counters past the seventh
earn no points at all. Once every climber is
either safe, pointless, or dead, total up your
score and play again!
Variations: If you think the board feels a little
cramped, that’s the point. But for a change of
pace, try the “no fear” version, in which you can
move on the black squares.
If you would like a lot more blood and chaos,
have Devil Bunny jump onto the topmost
climber in a random column, instead of taking
his normal move.
You can also experiment with cheese, although
it is primarily intended as a healthy snack.
Watch for more cheap, cheap, cheap games
coming someday from Cheapass Games. We
make great little games without the parts, and
sell ’em for next to nothing! (Or even for free!)
 How to Make the Board

Safety!
23 19 15 12 10 5 3

This is a snapshot of the Devil Bunny Board, which is included with

this edition as a separate 2-page file. You can just print that file on
bugs
white
mice sturdy cardstock, cut it at the crop lines, and stick the two pieces
together with tape, just like you did with the original back in 1998.
Or, you can follow these simple directions to make a thing of lasting
quality and beauty.

Step 1: Full-Sheet Labels

First, print both pages of the board file on full-sheet labels.

These are mailing labels with no die cut, such as you might find
grease ferns at a local office supply store or in the shipping department
where you work. Depending on what card stock you will be using
(see the next section) you might want these labels to have an
extra opacity layer, to cover whatever used to be on those boards.

Do not cut them yet.

Step 2: Heavy Cardstock

sweaty
man
broken
window
To make a decent board game, you want some decent board.
Look for scraps of matte board from your local art or framing
line of death
shop, or buy full sheets of it for slightly more money per inch.
Decommission a board game from the Goodwill. Strip the covers
off a terrible hardcover book. Use whatever works.

Stick the labels to the boards. Do not cut them yet.

Step 3: Contact Paper

weasels salmonella

This is an optional step. To mostly waterproof these boards, find

clear contact paper (the stuff you use for lining cabinets). Cut
pieces that are large enough to go well outside the margins of the
final board, because it’s hard to line this stuff up and lay it down
without bubbles at the same time.

Stick the contact paper to the boards.

porcupines tar
Step 4: Finishing:

Now you can cut them! Using a hobby knife (not recommended)
or a sturdy guillotine cutter such as you might find at a copy
shop or a friend’s house (better), trim the boards first where
they intersect. Use a line of packing tape on the backside of the
boards, to make a hinge at that seam. Then cut the rest of the
borders, leaving a margin roughly the size of that shown here.

wesley
bugs
We hope this will help you make a board that is as enduring as
snipes
the value of our game. Perhaps, dare we say, more so.

g r o u n d
Devil Bunny Needs a Ham © 1998, 2011 Cheapass Games • You can get a lot of other cool games from us, too. • Happy Day!
Devil Bunny Needs a Ham is © 1998, 2011 James Ernest
and Cheapass Games: www.cheapass.com

Free? Seriously?
Tell me a little more about that.
Okay, here’s the deal. If I made a great game and sold
it to you for ten bucks, I’d probably keep about a dollar.
If I sold it to a big game company, they’d probably
make a nicer version for thirty bucks, and I’d still get
about a dollar.
The rest of your money would go to printers, distribu-
tors, retail stores, and at least three freight companies.
And most of those guys don’t know anything about
what makes a great game.
Mass-producing entertainment is a gamble. It’s a con-
voluted way for creators to protect their intellectual
property, by selling it in a way that is prohibitively
expensive to counterfeit. And it’s getting a little old.
Why do you pay $30 for a board game? The story goes
like this: the retail price of a game covers the cost of
manufacturing it, and there is no way you could make
your own copy for that price, to say nothing of the
hassle of finding little wooden men in six colors. So,
it’s worth $30 because it costs $30, QED.
But the value in a board game isn’t the manufacturing
cost. It’s the play value. Unfortunately, this means that
some games are priced way out of whack with what
they are worth. And because the big gamble doesn’t
always work out, some of your money actually helps
pay for the stuff that goes straight to the dump.
I’ve decided to try a different gamble. I’m giving my
games away for free. This way, you can read the rules,
make a copy, and even play the thing, before you
decide what it’s worth.
If you do like my games, I hope you will send me some
money. But I’m also hoping you will share this experi-
ment with your friends. You are my sales force, my
marketing department, my demo team.
You’re also my testers, so if you can think of ways to
improve my games, please share them with me. I’m
easy to find at big gaming conventions, and even easi-
er online. Look for Cheapass Games on Facebook, or
drop me a line at cheapassjames@gmail.com.
If we do this right, we will get famous and do shaving
ads. But more importantly, we will prove that there is
a better way for a creator to profit from his work.
And nothing has to go to the dump.
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