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Effect of Blending Methodologies on Cotton Mélange Yarn Quality

Article  in  Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe · October 2018

DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.2529

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 Suchibrata Ray1,*,
Anindya Ghosh2,
Effect of Blending Methodologies
Debamalya Banerjee3 on Cotton Mélange Yarn Quality
DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.2529
1
Government College of Engineering Abstract
and Textile Technology, Fibre of dyed mélange yarn is becoming an emerging product in the field of textiles. The qu-
Serampore 712201, India ality of mélange yarn is largely influenced by the types of blending methodologies. There
* e-mail: raysuchi@yahoo.co.in exists hardly any reported work where the effect of blending methods on cotton mélange yarn
2
Government College of Engineering quality has been studied. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of blending
and Textile Technology, methodologies on the properties of cotton mélange spun yarn. Dyed and grey cotton fibre
Berhampore 742101, India components were mixed at the blow room and draw frame stages separately to produce
mélange yarns with three different shade depths (%). Better yarn quality with respect to
3
Jadavpur University, yarn evenness, imperfections, tenacity, elongation at break and hairiness index was achie-
Department of Production Engineering, ved with the draw frame blending methodology as compared to the blow room blending
Kolkata 700032, India methodology. The mélange yarn quality deteriorates with an increase in shade depth (%)
for both blending methodologies.

Key words: blow room blending, draw frame blending, fibre breakage, mélange yarn, shade
depth, yarn quality.

Introduction
With the advent of technology, the tex-
tile industry is now capable of producing
various kinds of yarns and fabrics with
special appearance by varying the prod-
uct mix and structure. Nowadays, yarns
with structural effects like waves, loops,
chenille, pile, etc. and optical effects like
colour and lustre or dull outcomes are
becoming lucrative products of spinning,
twisting, wrapping, texturing, printing,
knitting etc. [1]. Fancy yarns exist on
the textile market as a main raw materi-
al for hosiery and woven products, and
there is more demand for fancy yarns in
the era of modern fashion [2]. Among
the various fancy yarns, mélange yarns
are known for their attractive colour and
appearance. Mélange yarn is made out
of two or more different coloured fibres
which are spun after mixing, therefore
creating a unique mixed colour effect.
Such types of fancy yarns have advan-
tages for fabric appearance and can be
used in casual wear, sportswear, shirts,
business suits, socks and all sorts of
clothing products, as well as in bed lin-
ens, towels, decorative fabrics and other
home fabric products. Gong and Wright
[3] mentioned that fancy yarns are the big
classification of yarns that are being used
as having something more special than
conventional yarn. The extent of fibre
damage was assessed by Moghassem
[4], who noted that the fibre length by
number and weight of grey cotton was
more than those of dyed cotton, while
the quantity of fibre neps and short fi-
bre content of dyed cotton were more
than those of grey cotton. He concluded
that the repetition of mechanical action
on the fibre involved in melange yarn
manufacturing causes damage to the
fibre. Koo et al. [5] noted that the fibre
damage during the dyeing process de-
grades the physical properties of special-
ity yarn. Ishtiaque and Das [6] observed
that dyed cotton fibre length and related
parameters consistently deteriorate at
each mechanical processing stage of the
rotor spinning process, and that the effect
is more prominent in the case of natural
dyed cotton fibres due to the higher fric-
tional coefficient. Karim et al. [7] made
a comparative study of the properties of
ring spun and rotor spun cotton mélange
yarns and found less loss of mechanical
properties of ring spun mélange yarn
than for rotor spun mélange yarn. Naik
and Bhat [8] observed that the dyeing
process of cotton fibres leads to greater
entanglement and cohesion among them
and further mechanical processes to fibre
damage, which makes the mélange yarn
manufacturing process more difficult.
An increase in the dyed fibre share in the
mixture further increases difficulties in
mélange yarn manufacturing. In mélange
yarn manufacturing the major problem of
shade variation was discussed by Ying-
gang [9]. Zou [10] studied the effect of
process variables on the properties of air
vortex spun mélange yarn made from
viscose fibres and observed that vortex
mélange yarn quality is largely affected
by the yarn delivery speed, yarn count
and nozzle pressure. Memon et al. [11]
studied the impact of cotton fibre dye-
ing parameters on mélange yarn prop-
erties like yarn evenness, imperfection,
strength, elongation and hairiness, and
they emphasised the optimisation of dye-
ing parameters for better mélange yarn
properties. Regar et al. [12] reported that
compact mélange yarn exhibited better
mass uniformity, strength and elongation
as well as less hairiness and coefficient
of friction compared to conventional ring
spun cotton mélange yarn. Chollakup
et al. [13] found that the blended fibres
in draw frame blending tend to migrate
more towards the yarn core as compared
to intimate blending. Intimate blending
gave a more homogeneous fibre distri-
bution, with no radial migration tenden-
cy. Lam et al. [14] pointed out that the
blending method of fibre components (fi-
bre or sliver blending) directly influenc-
es the yarn tenacity. They also informed
that fibre blending offers more evenness
in fibre distribution in the spinning pro-
cess as opposed to the sliver blending
method. Mahmood et al. [15] studied the
effect of bleaching on the tensile proper-
ties of dyed polyester and bleached cot-
ton blended melange yarns and observed
that the yarn tensile properties improve
gradually as the share of polyester in
the blend increases. Prakash et al. [16]
studied the effect of the blend ratio on
the quality of bamboo/cotton blended
yarn and observed that increasing the
content of bamboo fibre led to a reduc-
tion in overall yarn properties. Zou [17]

Ray S, Ghosh A, Banerjee D. Effect of Blending Methodologies on Cotton Mélange Yarn Quality. 41
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018; 26, 5(131): 41-46. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.2529
 pointed out that the yarn formation pro-
cess variable in the case of vortex spun
melange yarn largely affects fabic char-
Dyed cotton 40% acteristics such as the air permeability
rate, dynamic drape co-efficient, fabric
Sandwich mixing Layering of breaking strength. Vadicherla and Sar-
in tuft blender mixing vanan [18] investigated the effect of the
Combed grey blend ratio on the quality characteristics
cotton 60% of recycled polyester/cotton draw frame
blended ring spun yarn. They observed
that an increase in recycled polyester
content increases the tenacity, elongation
Breaker draw at break and hairiness and decreases un-
frame Chute feed card Blow room
evenness, thin places, thick places, neps
and hairiness.

There are two methods of blending to

produce cotton mélange yarns, viz., blow
Finisher draw room blending and draw frame blending.
frame Speed frame Ring frame
A survey of literature shows that there
are hardly any reports on the effect of
blending methods on cotton mélange
yarn quality. This study was therefore
undertaken to investigate the effect of
Figure 1. Process flowchart for blow room blending (shade depth – 40%). blending methodologies and blending

Stage 1: Processing of dyed cotton fiber

Laye ring of dyed

Dyed cotton Blow room Carding
cotton fiber

Levelled dyed Levelling on

sliver (100%) draw frame

Stage 2: Blending process

Levelled dyed
sliver (100%) of
4.92 Ktex
Blending draw frame Breaker draw Finisher draw
3 ends of dyed + 5 ends of grey frame frame

Cleaned grey
cotton sliver of
4.43 Ktex Simplex (roving
Formation)

Arrangement of dyed and grey sliver on blending draw frame Ring Frame
(Yarn formation)

Figure 2. Process flow chart for draw frame blending (shade depth – 40%).

42 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 5(131)

 stages at different shade depths (%) on Table 1. Fibre quality parameters.
the properties of cotton mélange yarn.
HVI test results Bare sorter analysis
Material Bundle Short fibre Effective Short fiber
Length,
Materials and methods mm
strength,
g/tex
index,
SFI
length,
mm
content,
%
Cotton mélange yarn manufacturing Grey combed fiber 27.59 32.6 6.6 33 10.32
process Dyed combed fiber 27.47 20.43 6.7 33 10.73

The mixing of dyed and un-dyed (grey) Carded dyed fiber 26.71 16.37 8.5 32 14.62

cotton fibres in various ratios produces Mixing fiber of 40% shade 26.70 26.5 6.7 33 11.06

a variety of mélange yarns. This mixing Card sliver of 40% shade 26.06 22.2 6.2 32 16.12
Stage
Stage 2:2:Blending
Blending process
process
of fibres (dyed and un-dyed) could be
done either at the blow room stage or Table 2. Process parameters used for melange yarn preparation.
draw frame stage to create the mélange
effect in the yarn. In the case of mélange Ring frame
Count, tex
yarn production, the percentage of dyed Shade depth, % Spindle speed, rpm Yarn TM

Levelled
fibreLevelled Dyed
Dyed
in the mixing is commonly termed 10

as the shade percentage or shade depth 30 40 14500 3.7

Sliver
Sliver
(100%)
(100%) of of
(%). Depending upon the stages of mix- 70

ing 4.92
of 4.92
dyedKtex
Ktex
and grey cotton, mélange
yarn manufacturing methods are clas- Blending Blending Draw
blending method Draw Frame
forFrame
producing mélange producing Breaker
Breaker Draw
Draw
mélange Finisher
yarn of 40% shadeFinisher Draw
Dra
sified in two types, namely blow 3 room
ends yarn
3 ends
ofof ofdyed
dyed 40%+shade depth.
5+ ends
5 ends ofof
grey
grey depth. FrameFrame Frame
Frame
blending and draw frame blending.
Process flow of draw frame blending Materials and preparation of yarn
Cleaned
Cleaned
flow grey
of grey
Process blow room blending Mostly lighter shades having a shade samples
cotton
cotton sliver
sliverofof
Normally darker shades and ones con- depth less than 40% are blended on the Black dyed and grey combed Sankar 6
sisting of a variety of coloured fibres are draw frame as they are easy to blend and cotton fibres were used to produce 30
4.43
4.43 Ktex
Ktex Simplex
Simplex
tex (Rovin
(Rov
run as blow room blend shades. Conven- produce good shade appearance. Draw (20s Ne) mélange yarns. The cotton fibre
Formation)
Formation
tionally, shades having a depth more than frame blending is basically a double properties used to produce the yarns are
40% are run as blow room blends. As the stage manufacturing process. Figure 2 summarised in Table 1. The process flow
mixing of dyed and grey components is illustrates the process flowchart for the charts depicted in Figure 1 and Figure 2
done in the initial process of manufactur- draw frame blending method for produc- were used to produce blow room blended
ing, the chances of fibre randomisation ing mélange yarn of 40% shade depth. and draw frame blended cotton mélange
Arrangement
Arrangement ofofdyed
dyed andandgrey grey sliver
sliveralal
blending
blending draw
draw frame
frame Ring
Ring
Frame
Fram
and homogeneous blending are higher Stage 1 in Figure 2 illustrates the pro- yarns, respectively. For each type of
in the case of the blow room blending cess flow chart for dyed fibre prepara- blend, yarn samples were prepared for (Yarn (Yarn
method. Consequently better shade/col- tion. The blending of dyed and grey sliv- three different shade depths %, viz., 10%, Formation)
Formation
our uniformity in appearance is achieved ers was done on a blending draw frame. 40% and 70%. All the yarn samples were
in the case of the blow room blending Stage 2 in Figure 2 schematically repre- prepared in a conventional ring spinning
method, which is basically a single stage sents the blending of dyed and grey sliv- system. The process parameters used to
Figure
Figure2.process.
manufacturing 2.Process
Process flow
Figure 1flowchart
chart
depicts forfor
ers ondraw drawframe
a blending frame
drawblend
blend
frame (Shade
(Shade
and flow Depth Depth–the–40%)
produce 40%)
yarns are summarised in Ta-
the process flowchart for the blow room chart of the subsequent processes for ble 2.

a) b)
80 80

70 70

60 60
CVm, %

50 50
IPI
IPI
IPI

Blowroom
Blowroom
blend
blend

40 40

Drawframe
Drawframe
blend
blend
30 30

20 20
0 0 10 10 20 20 30 30 40 40 50 50 60 60 70 70 80 80
Shade
Shade
depth
depth
(%) (%)
Shade depth, % Shade depth, %

Figure 3. a) Effect of shade (a)

(a)(%) on unevenness (CVm), and b) effect of shade depth (%) on imperfections
depth (b)(b) (IPI) for blow room and
draw frame blended mélange yarn.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 5(131) 43

Figure
Figure3.3.(a)(a)Effect
Effectofofshade
shadedepthdepth(%)
(%)ononunevenness
unevenness(CVm), and(b)(b)Effect
(CVm),and Effectofofshade
shadedepth
depth
(%)
(%)ononimperfections
imperfections(IPI) (IPI)forforblow
blowroom
roomandanddraw
drawframe
frameblended
blendedmélange
mélangeyarn.yarn.
 a) b)
22 22 5 5

4.9 4.9
21 21
4.8 4.8

20 20 Drawframe
Drawframe blend blend 4.7
4.7

Elongation at break(%)
break(%)
strength (RKM)
Yarn strength (RKM)
RKM

atatbreak,
4.6 4.6
19 19 Drawframe
Drawframe blend blend
strength,

4.5 4.5

Elongation
18 18 Blowroom
Blowroom blend blend

Elongation
4.4 4.4
YarnYarn

17 17 4.3 4.3
Blowroom
Blowroom blend blend
4.2 4.2
16 16
4.1 4.1

15 15 4 4
0 0 10 10 20 20 30 30 40 40 50 50 60 60 70 70 80 80 0 0 10 10 20 20 30 30 40 40 50 50 60 60 70 70 80 80
Shade
Shade depthdepth
(%) (%) Shade
Shade depthdepth
(%) (%)
Shade depth, % Shade depth, %

Figure 4. a) Effect of shade depth

draw frame blended mélange yarn.
(a)on strength (RKM), and b) effect of shade depth (%) on elongation at(b)
(a)(%) (b)(%) for blow room and
break

Figure
Figure 4. (a)
4. (a) Effect
Effect of shade
of shade depth
depth (%)(%)
on on strength
strength (RKM),
(RKM), (b)(b)
andand Effect
Effect of shade
of shade depth
depth
Testing of yarn samples weger, Switzerland) using a specimen types of blending methodology. The av-
(%)
All (%)
yarnon on
samples elongation
elongation
were placed at24break
atforbreak h in (%) (%)
testfor for
lengthblowofblowroom
500 room
mm, andand draw
extension draw
rate frame
offrame blended
erageblended
yarn andmélange
CVmmélange yarn.yarn.
imperfections for
standard atmospheric conditions in or- 400 m/min and pre-tension of 0.5 cN/tex. blow room blended mélange yarns are
der to balance the humidity effect. Grey The average yarn tenacity and breaking significantly higher than those of draw
combed fibre and dyed combed fibre elongation were estimated for each type frame blended mélange yarns for all
were tested for their length and strength of yarn based on 1000 readings. shade depths %.
parameters using HVI 900 (Zellweger, 5.6 5.6
Switzerland) and Bare Sorter instru- Results and discussions The process flow charts for mélange yarn
ments. Subsequently the samples 5.4 5.4
were production for both types of blending
evaluated for yarn unevenness5.2 (CVm), The experimental values of yarn even- techniques, shown in Figure 1 and Fig-
5.2
imperfections (IPI), the hairiness index ness, tenacity, elongation at break, imper- ure 2, clearly indicate that the entire grey
(HI), tenacity (cN/tex) and breaking 5 elon-
5 fections (IPI) and hairiness index of 30 tex cotton fibre used in the mélange mixture is
gation (%). Yarn CVm, IPI and HI were (20 Ne) cotton mélange yarns prepared actually processed twice through the blow
s

4.8 4.8
tested with a capacitance based evenness with the blow room and draw frame blend- room and carding machines in the case of
tester (USTER TESTER 4, 4.6
®
Zellwe-
4.6
ing techniques
Blowroom
are tabulated in Table 3. blow room blending. In order to produce
Blowroom blendblend
HI
HI

ger, Switzerland) at a yarn withdrawal blow room blended mélange yarn, firstly
speed of 400 m/min for a testing4.4time 4.4
of Yarn evenness (U %) and imperfections the grey fibre is opened and cleaned by
1 min. Yarn IPI is estimated as4.2 the4.2sum The effect of shade depth on yarn une- processing from the blow room to the
total of the number of +50% thick plac- venness (CVm)
Drawframe
Drawframe and
blend imperfections (per comber separately, then they are mixed
blend
es, -50% thin place and +200% neps 4 4per km) for blow room blended and draw with the dyed fibre (amount depending
Km length of yarn. For each type of yarn, frame blended cotton mélange yarns is upon the shade depth %) in the tuft blend-
3.8 3.8
10 readings were taken to measure the shown in Figure 3.a and 3.b, respective- er, followed by subsequently processing
average CVm, IPI and HI. Tensile 3.6 prop-
3.6 ly. It is observed from Figure 3 that yarn though the blow room and card. Hence
0 0 10 10 20 20 30 30 40 40 50 50 60 60 70 70 80 80
erties of the yarns were tested by means unevenness and imperfections increase for blow room blending, the chances of
Shade
Shade depthdepth
(%) (%)
of an Uster Tensojet tensile tester (Zell- as the shade becomes darker for both the short fibre generation due to fibre break-
age and formation of fibrous neps and
TableFigureFigure
3. Experimental 5.results
5. EffectEffect
ofof of shade
shade
mélange depth
yarndepth
properties (%) (%)
for on on hairiness
hairiness
different blending indexindex
techniques. (HI)(HI)
forfor
entanglements
blow blowroomroom
increase
andand
with the draw
excessive
draw
mechanical action and fibre transportation
Yarn properties
frame Shade blended
Type of mélange yarn frame blended mélange yarn.
depth, %mélange yarn. through the pipelines. Once the fibre mix
10 40 70 (dyed and grey) is processed through the
CVm, %
Blow room blended 11.60 12.13 12.14 card, there is no further scope available for
Draw frame blended 10.4 11.53 11.79 removing the short fibre and entanglement
Blow room blended 18.98 18.11 17.04 in the next processes of yarn manufactur-
Strength, RKM
Draw frame blended 20.42 19.00 17.55 ing. Thus the reduction in effective fibre
Blow room blended 4.48 4.25 4.09 length and higher proportion of fibrous
Elongation at break, %
Draw frame blended 4.76 4.44 4.35 neps and entanglement are eventually re-
Blow room blended 43.32 47.92 65.40 flected in terms of yarn unevenness, thick
Imperfections per Km, IPI
Draw frame blended 29.23 42.73 59.02
places, thin places and neps. On the other
Blow room blended 4.27 4.76 5.26
Hairiness index, HI hand, in the case of the draw frame blend-
Draw frame blended 4.10 4.36 5.16
ing method, the grey fibre is treated sepa-

44 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 5(131)


rately up to the combing stage only once
before mixing with dyed cotton at the
draw frame stage. Therefore the amount
of short fibre and number of fibrous neps
present in the grey cotton part are much
less. Moreover the dyed fibre sliver passes
through the draw frame stage four times
in the case of the draw frame blending
method as compared to only two times in
the case of the blow room blending meth-
od. More drawing passages improves the
effective length of fibre; therefore draw
frame blended mélange yarn shows bet-
ter yarn evenness and imperfections than
those of blow room blended mélange yarn.
An increase in the shade depth % has
a detrimental influence on CVm and im-
perfections for both blow room and draw
frame blended mélange yarns. This is
attributed to the fact that the change in
the surface characteristics of fibre after
dyeing causes an increase in fibre en-
tanglement and fibre-to-fibre friction.
As a consequence, opening and drafting
become more difficult while process-
ing a higher percentage of dyed fibres.
Therefore a higher shade depth % dete-
riorates mélange yarn quality in terms of
CVm and imperfections.
Yarn strength and elongation at break
Figure 4.a and 4.b depict the effect of the
shade depth (%) on cotton mélange yarn
strength and elongation at break, respec-
tively, for both types of blending method.
The strength and breaking elongation of
draw frame blended yarns are observed to
be higher than those of blow room blend-
ed yarn for all levels of shade depth (%).
It has been discussed in the earlier sec-
tion that the chance of fibre breakage is
more evident for the blow room blending
method as compared to the draw frame
blending method. The generation of short
fibres increases proportionately with the
fibre breakage. When a yarn is subjected
to tensile testing, short fibres present in
the yarn are more prone to slip, result-
ing in lower yarn strength and breaking
elongation. In addition, a higher num-
ber of drawing passages imparted in the
draw frame blending technique improves
the effective fibre length because of more
parallelisation, which also contributes to-
wards the improvement in yarn strength
and elongation at break.
The reduction in mélange yarn tensile
properties as the shade becomes darker for
both methods of blending may be ascribed
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2018, Vol. 26, 5(131)
Figure 4. (a) Effect of shade depth (%) on strength (RKM), and (b) Effect of sh
(%) on elongation at break (%) for blow room and draw frame blended mélang
Figure 5. Effect of
shade depth (%) on 5.6
hairiness index (HI)
for blow room and 5.4
draw frame blended
5.2
mélange yarn.
5
4.8
4.6 Blowroom blend
HI
HI
4.4
4.2
Drawframe blend
4
3.8
3.6
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
Shade depth (%)
Shade depth, %
Figure 5. Effect of shade depth (%) on hairiness index (HI) for blow room a
to the higher proportion of weak dyed frame Conclusions
blended mélange yarn.
fibre content in the yarn cross-section.
The cotton fibre strength decreases during Cotton Mélange yarn quality is sig-
nificantly affected by the method of
the dyeing process and weak dyed fibres
blending. Better mélange yarn quality
are more prone to damage during the me-
is achieved with the draw frame blend-
chanical processing in spinning. Table 1
ing techniques than with the blow room
depicts the HVI and Bare Sorter results
blending technique. Repetitive blow
for fibre strength and length parameters room and carding action imparted in
of combed grey fibre and combed dyed fi- the blow room blending method causes
bre. It is clearly evident from Table 1 that more fibre damage and higher short fibre
the dyeing of cotton fibre causes a 37.3 % generation, which results in lower yarn
loss of fibre bundle strength. Hence yarn strength and breaking elongation, as well
strength and elongation at break decrease as more yarn unevenness, imperfections
at a higher shade depth (%). and hairiness. Furthermore a higher num-
ber of draw frame passages improves fi-
Yarn hairiness index bre parallelisation, which results in better
The effect of shade depth on the yarn yarn quality in the case of draw frame
hairiness index for blow room blended blending methodology. Mélange yarn
and draw frame blended cotton mélange quality significantly deteriorates with
yarn is shown in Figure 5. It is noted an increase in shade depth (%) for both
from Figure 5 that the yarn hairiness types of blending techniques.
index increases with an increase in the
shade depth (%) for both methods of
blending. The difficulty of fibre open-
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elasticized knitted ucts in various forms. If needed, we are willing
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Eastern Europe 2017; 25, 2(122): 48-52. Head of the Laboratory: Dorota Kaźmierczak Ph.D.,
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DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1227875 phone 42 6380337, 42 6380300 ext. 384,
mikrobiologia@ibwch.lodz.pl or ibwch@ibwch.lodz.pl

Received 14.04.2015
Received 18.12.2017 Reviewed 27.07.2015
Reviewed 20.03.2018

46
36 FIBRES&&TEXTILES
FIBRES TEXTILESininEastern
EasternEurope
Europe2018,
2016,Vol.
Vol.26,
24,5(131)
2(116)

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