A TECHNICAL SEMINAR REPORT ON

WASHING MACHINE

ON THE PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENT FOR THE

AWARD OF THE DEGREE OF

‘BACHELOR OF TECHNOLOGY’

IN

MECHANICAL ENGINEERING (MECHATRONICS)

Submitted by

RISHITHA P 16261A137

Under the guidance of

Dr.K.Sudhakar Reddy

Professor and Head

Department of Mechanical engineering

MAHATMA GANDHI INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

(Accredited By NBA and NAAC, Affiliated to JNTUH, Hyderabad)

(Gandipet,Hyderabad)
 CONTENTS
1) Introduction

2) Types of washing machines

3) Components
4) Working
5) conclusion
 INTRODUCTION

Laundering by hand involves soaking, beating, scrubbing, and rinsing dirty textiles. Before indoor plumbing,
the maids washerwoman (laundress) or housewife also had to carry all the water used for washing, boiling,
and rinsing the laundry; according to an 1886 calculation, some women in the United States fetched water
eight to ten times every day from a pump, well, or spring for these purposes.[1] Water for the laundry would
be hand carried, heated on a fire for washing, then poured into the tub. That made the warm soapy water
precious; it would be reused, first to wash the least soiled clothing, then to wash progressively dirtier
laundry.

Removal of soap and water from the clothing after washing was a separate process. First, soap would be
rinsed out with clear water. After rinsing, the soaking wet clothing would be formed into a roll and twisted
by hand to extract water. The entire process often occupied an entire day of hard work, plus drying and
ironing. It is also often used in washbasins.

Washing machine is the machine used to wash the various types of clothes without applying any physical
efforts. With washing machine you don’t have to rub the clothes with hand or squeeze them to remove the
water from them. The washing machine is also called as clothes washer or simply the washer. The washing
machine enables you to wash your clothes automatically without having to supervise its operation. All you
have to do is put the clothes in the machine and select the wash mode. The washing machine automatically
takes in the amount of water and detergent required and it also automatically sets the timer for washing,
rinsing and drying as per the selected mode and the amount of clothes.
 TYPES OF WASHING MACHINE

Top-loading

General Electric Filter-Flo top loading, vertical axis machines in laundromat. The pans on the inside of the lid are placed a

In a top-loading washer, water circulates primarily along the poloidal axis during the wash cycle, as indicated by the red a

The top loading, vertical axis cloth washer, is the dominant design in the United States and Canada. This
design places the clothes in a vertically mounted perforated basket that is contained within a water-retaining
tub, with a finned water-pumping agitator in the center of the bottom of the basket. Clothes are loaded
through the top of the machine, which is usually but not always covered with a hinged door.

During the wash cycle, the outer tub is filled with water sufficient to fully immerse and suspend the clothing
freely in the basket. The movement of the agitator pushes water outward between the paddles towards the
edge of the tub. The water then moves outward, up the sides of the basket, towards the center, and then down
towards the agitator to repeat the process, in a circulation pattern similar to the shape of a torus. The agitator
direction is periodically reversed, because continuous motion in one direction would just lead to the water
spinning around the basket with the agitator rather than the water being pumped in the torus-shaped motion.
Some washers supplement the water-pumping action of the agitator with a large rotating screw on the shaft
above the agitator, to help move water downwards in the center of the basket.

Since the agitator and the drum are separate and distinct in a top-loading washing machine, the mechanism
of a top-loader is inherently more complicated than a front-loading machine. Manufacturers have devised
several ways to control the motion of the agitator during wash and rinse separately from the high speed
rotation of the
drum required for the spin cycle.

While a top-loading washing machine could use a universal motor or DC brushless motor, it is conventional
for top-loading washing machines to use more expensive, heavy, and more electrically efficient and
reliable induction motors. The action of a front-loading washing machine is better suited to a motor capable
of reversing direction with every reversal of the wash basket; a universal motor is noisier, less efficient,
doesn't last as long, but is better suited to the task of reversing direction every few seconds.

An alternative to the oscillating agitator design is the impeller type washtub pioneered by Hoover on its long
running Hoovermatic series of top loading machines. Here, an impeller (trademarked by Hoover as a
"Pulsator") mounted on the side of the tub spins in a constant direction, and creates a fast moving current of
water in the tub which drags the clothes through the water along a toroidal path. The impeller design has the
advantage of its mechanical simplicity - a single speed motor with belt drive is all that is required to drive
the Pulsator with no need for gearboxes or complex electrical controls, but has the disadvantage of lower
load capacity in relation to tub size. Hoovermatic machines were made mostly in twin tub format for the
European market - (where they competed with Hotpoint's Supermatic line which used the oscillating agitator
design) until the early 1990s. Some industrial garment testing machines still use the Hoover wash action.

The many different ways different manufacturers have solved the same problem over the years is a good
example of many different ways to solve the same engineering problem with different goals, different
manufacturing capabilities and expertise, and different patent encumbrances.

Reversible motor

In most current top-loading washers, if the motor spins in one direction, the gearbox drives the agitator; if the
motor spins the other way, the gearbox locks the agitator and spins the basket and agitator together.
Similarly, if the pump motor rotates one way it recirculates the sudsy water; in the other direction it pumps
water from the machine during the spin cycle. Mechanically, this system is very simple.

Mode-changing transmission

In some top loaders, the motor runs only in one direction. During agitation, the transmission converts the
rotation into the alternating motion driving the agitator. During the spin cycle, the timer turns on
a solenoid which engages a clutch locking the motor's rotation to the wash basket, providing a spin cycle.
General Electric's very popular line of Filter-Flo (seen to the right) used a variant of this design where the
motor reversed only to pump water out of the machine. The same clutch which allows the heavy tub full of
wet clothes to "slip" as it comes up to the motor's speed, is also allowed to "slip" during agitation to engage a
Gentle Cycle for delicate clothes.

Whirlpool (Kenmore) created a popular design demonstrating the complex mechanisms which could be used
to produce different motions from a single motor with the so-called "wig wag" mechanism, which was used
for decades until modern controls rendered it obsolete. In the Whirlpool mechanism, a protruding moving
piece oscillates in time with the agitation motion. Two solenoids are mounted to this protruding moving
piece, with wires attaching them to the timer. During the cycle, the motor operates continuously, and the
solenoids on the "wig wag" engage agitation or spin. Despite the wires controlling the solenoids being
subject to abrasion and broken connections due to their constant motion and the solenoids operating in a
damp environment where corrosion could damage them, these machines were surprisingly reliable.

Reversible motor with mode-changing transmission

Some top-loaders, especially compact apartment-sized washers, use a hybrid mechanism. The motor reverses
direction every few seconds, often with a pause between direction changes, to perform the agitation. Spin
cycle is accomplished by engaging a clutch in the transmission. A separate motorized pump is generally
used to drain this style of machine. These machines could easily be implemented with universal motors or
more modern DC brushless motors, but older ones tend to use a capacitor-start induction motor with a pause
between reversals of agitation.

Top-load advantages

The top-loader's spin cycle between washing and rinsing allows an extremely simple passive fabric
softener dispenser, which operates through centrifugal force and gravity. Fabric softener, vinegar, or any other
liquid rinse agent, is placed in a cup at the top of the agitator. It "rides along" during the wash cycle. When
the spin cycle is engaged, the fabric softener is pulled up by a tapered cup and centrifugal force, where it
collects in the top of the spinning agitator. Once the spin cycle is completed, centrifugal force no longer
suspends the fabric softener and it falls through the center of the agitator to join the rinse water coming into
the tub. The same objective must be accomplished by a solenoid valve or a pump, and associated timer
controls and wiring, on a front loader.

A lint trap can also be built into the center of the agitator,[89] or on the drum's walls,[90][91][92][93][94] passively
collecting lint from water forced through the agitator. Front-loaders tend to require separate pumps and
plumbing to provide lint filters which are often mounted behind covers on the bottom of the machine.

Another advantage to the top loading design is the reliance on gravity to contain the water, rather than
potentially trouble-prone or short-lived front door seals. Top loaders may require less periodic maintenance,
since there is no need to clean a door seal or bellows, although a plastic tub may still require a periodic
"maintenance wash" cycle (described below).

As with front-loading washers, clothing should not be packed tightly into a top-loading washer. Although
wet fabric usually fits into a smaller space than dry fabric, a dense wad of fabric can restrict water
circulation, resulting in poor soap distribution and incomplete rinsing. Extremely overloaded top-loading
washers can either jam the motion of the agitator, overloading or damaging the motor or gearbox, burning
drive belts, or tearing fabrics - many Whirlpool/Kenmore machines even have a mechanical "fuse" designed
to break before the expensive motor is damaged. Extreme overloading can also push fabrics into the small
gap between the
underside of the agitator and the bottom of the wash basket, resulting in fabrics wrapped around the agitator
shaft, possibly requiring agitator removal to unjam.

Some top-loading machines use mechanisms very similar to front-loading drum machines, and are described
below.

Front-loading

BE1200A+ is a front loading budget model sold in 2008 with 6-kilogram (13 lb) load, LCD indicator, 1200 RPM

Modern drum of front-loading washing machine (Bosch Maxx WFO 2440)

The front-loading or horizontal-axis clothes washer is the dominant design in Europe. In the U.S. and
elsewhere, most "high-end" washing machines are of this type. In addition, most commercial and industrial
clothes washers around the world are of the horizontal-axis design.

This layout mounts the inner basket and outer tub horizontally, and loading is through a door at the front of
the machine. The door often but not always contains a transparent window. Agitation is supplied by the
back- and-forth rotation of the cylinder and by gravity. The clothes are lifted up by paddles on the inside wall
of the drum and then dropped. This motion flexes the weave of the fabric and forces water and detergent
solution through the clothes load. Because the wash action does not require the clothing be freely suspended
in water, only enough water is needed to moisten the fabric. Because less water is required, front-loaders
typically use less soap, and the repeated dropping and folding action of the tumbling can easily produce
large amounts of foam or suds.
Front-loaders control water usage through the surface tension of water, and the capillary wicking action this
creates in the fabric weave. A front-loader washer always fills to the same low water level, but a large pile of
dry clothing standing in water will soak up the moisture, causing the water level to drop. The washer then
refills to maintain the original water level. Because it takes time for this water absorption to occur with a
motionless pile of fabric, nearly all front-loaders begin the washing process by slowly tumbling the clothing
under the stream of water entering and filling the drum, to rapidly saturate the clothes with water.

Front-loading washers are mechanically simple compared to top-loaders, with the main motor (a universal
motor or variable-frequency drive motor) normally being connected to the drum via a grooved pulley belt
and large pulley wheel, without the need for a gearbox, clutch or crank. But front-load washers suffer from
their own technical problems, due to the drum lying sideways. For example, a top loading washer keeps
water inside the tub merely through the force of gravity pulling down on the water, while a front-loader must
tightly seal the door shut with a gasket to prevent water dripping onto the floor during the wash cycle. This
access door is locked shut during the entire wash cycle, since opening the door with the machine in use
could result in water gushing out onto the floor. For front-loaders without viewing windows on the door, it is
possible to accidentally pinch fabric between the door and the drum, resulting in tearing and damage to the
pinched clothing during tumbling and spinning.

Nearly all front-loader washers for the consumer market also use a folded flexible bellows assembly around
the door opening, to keep clothing contained inside the basket during the tumbling wash cycle. If this
bellows assembly were not used, small articles of clothing such as socks could slip out of the wash basket
near the door, and fall down the narrow slot between the outer tub and basket, plugging the drain and
possibly jamming rotation of the inner basket. Retrieving lost items from between the outer tub and inner
basket can require complete disassembly of the front of the washer and pulling out the entire inner wash
basket. Commercial and industrial front-loaders used by businesses (described below) usually do not use the
bellows, and instead require all small objects to be placed in a mesh bag to prevent loss near the basket
opening.

The bellows assembly around the door is a potential source of problems for the consumer front-loader. The
bellows has a large number of flexible folds to permit the tub to move separately from the door during the
high speed extraction cycle. On many machines, these folds can collect lint, dirt, and moisture, resulting
in mold and mildew growth, and a foul odor. Some front-loading washer operating instructions say the
bellows should be wiped down monthly with a strong bleach solution, while others offer a special
"freshening" cycle where the machine is run empty with a strong dosing of bleach.

The inherent mechanical weak spot of the front loader design is the cantilevered mounting of the inner drum
within the outer tub. The drum bearing has to support the entire weight of the drum, the laundry, and the
dynamic loads created by the sloshing of the water and of the imbalance of the load during the spin cycle.
The drum bearing eventually wears out, and usually requires extensive dismantling of the machine to
replace, which often results in the machine being written off due to the failure of a relatively inexpensive
component
that is labor-intensive to renew. Some manufacturers have compounded this problem by "overmolding" the
drum bearing into the outer tub to reduce manufacturing costs, but this makes the bearing impossible to
renew without replacing the entire outer tub - which usually forces owners to scrap the entire machine - this
may be viewed as an implementation of built-in obsolescence.

Compared to top-loading washers, clothing can be packed more tightly in a front loader, up to the full drum
volume if using a cottons wash cycle. This is because wet cloth usually fits into a smaller space than dry
cloth, and front loaders are able to self-regulate the water needed to achieve correct washing and rinsing.
Extreme overloading of front-loading washers pushes fabrics towards the small gap between the loading
door and the front of the wash basket, potentially resulting in fabrics lost between the basket and outer tub,
and in severe cases, tearing of clothing and jamming the motion of the basket.
 MODERN WASHING MACHINE COMPONENTS

 OUTER BODY

 INNER BODY

 POWERSUPPLY

 WATER INLET PUMP(HOT AND COLD)

 DRUM

 AGITATOR

 MOTOR

 DRAIN PIPE

 PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD

 TIMER

 HEATING ELEMENT

 BELT

 CAPACITORS

 GEARS

 THERMOSTART

 SOLENOIDS
 INSIDE WASHING MACHINE

If we take a look under the washing machine, you'll see what makes it so heavy. Yes, that is in fact a block
of concrete in the picture above. The concrete is there to balance the equally heavy electric motor, which
drives a very heavy gearbox that is attached to the steel inner tub. There are lots of heavy components in a
washing machine. The washing machine has two steel tubs. The inner tub is the one that holds the clothes.
It has an agitator in the middle of it, and the sides are perforated with holes so that when the tub spins, the
water can leave. The outer tub, which seals in all the water, is bolted to the body of the washer. Because the
inner tub vibrates and shakes during the wash cycle, it has to be mounted in a way that lets it move around
without banging into other parts of the machine.

MOTOR AND COUNTER WEIGHT

The inner tub is attached to the gearbox, which is attached to the black metal frame you see in the picture
above. This frame holds the motor, gearbox and the concrete weight. The picture above shows just the black
metal frame, without the tub or gearbox. The cable that you see on the left side of the picture is the other end
of the same cable that you see on the right side. There are a total of three pulleys, so that if one side of the
frame moves up, the other side moves down. This system supports the weight of the heavy components,
letting them move in such a way as not to shake the entire machine. But, if all of these parts are just hanging
by cables, why don't they swing around all the time?
 CABLE AND PULLY SUPPORT SYSTEM
A laundry machine has a damping system that uses friction to absorb some of the force from the vibrations.

VIBRATION AND DAMPING SYSTEM

In each of the four corners of the machine is a mechanism that works a little like a disc brake. The part
attached to the washer frame is a spring. It squeezes two pads against the metal plate that is attached to the
black frame. You can see where the pads have polished the plate from movement during vibration.

Plumbing
The plumbing on the washing machine has several jobs:
● It fills the washing machine with the correct temperature of water.
● It recirculates the wash water from the bottom of the wash tub back to the top (during the wash cycle).
● It pumps water out the drain (during the spin cycle).

The washing machine has hookups for two water lines on the back, one for hot water and one for cold.
These lines are hooked up to the body of a solenoid valve.

The image above shows the back and front of the solenoid valve. You can see that there are two valves, but
they feed into a single hose. So depending on the temperature selected, either the hot valve, the cold valve or
both valves will open.
 Before the hose releases water into the wash tub, it sends it through an anti-siphon device.

ANTI-SIPHON

This device prevents wash water from being sucked back into the water supply lines, possibly contaminating
the water for your house or even your neighborhood. You can see that the white, plastic device has a big
opening that allows air in. The water from the hose shoots into the device and turns downward, exiting
through the tube on the other end. But while it is inside the device, it is open to the atmosphere. This means
that if there were suction on the water supply line, it could not possibly suck any water in from the washing
machine; it would get only air.

WATER INLET AND OVERFLOW PORT

The picture above shows the inlet through which water enters the washing machine. The nozzle to the right
is an overflow port, which is connected to a pipe that dumps water out the bottom of the washing machine
(onto your floor), instead of letting it overflow the tub and possibly get the motor wet.

PUMP
The rest of the plumbing system, the part that recirculates the water and the part that drains it, involves the
pump.

In the picture above, you can see how the pump is hooked up. This pump is actually two separate pumps in
one: The bottom half of the pump is hooked up to the drain line, while the top half recirculates the wash
water. So how does the pump decide whether to pump the water out the drain line or back into the wash tub?
This is where one of the neat tricks of the washing machine comes in: The motor that drives the pump can
reverse direction. It spins one way when the washer is running a wash cycle and recirculating the water; and
it spins the other way when the washer is doing a spin cycle and draining the water. Let's take a closer look
at the pump:

If you look carefully, you can see the vanes of the bottom layer of the pump. When water enters the pump's
inlet, these vanes, or fins, push the water around and force it back out of the pump by way of the outlet. This
type of pump can operate in both directions -- which port is the inlet and which is the outlet depends on
which direction the pump is spinning in. Take another look at the pump. If the pump spins clockwise, the
bottom pump sucks water from the bottom of the wash tub and forces it out the drain hose, and the top pump
tries to suck air from the top of the wash tub and force it back up through the bottom, so that no water
recirculation takes place. If the pump spins counter-clockwise, the top pump sucks water from the bottom of
the tub and pumps it back up to the top, and the bottom pump tries to pump water from the drain hose back
into the bottom of the tub. There is actually a little bit of water in the drain hose, but the pump doesn't have
the power to force much of it back into the tub. Take another look at the drain hose in the picture above --
notice how it loops all the way to the top of the machine before heading back down to the drain. Because
one end of the hose is hooked up to the bottom of the tub and the other is open to the atmosphere, the level
of water inside the drain hose will be the same as the level inside the tub. If the drain hose didn't go all the
way up to the top of the machine, then the tub could never fill all the way. As soon as the water reaches the
bend in the hose, it goes out the drain. There are also times when the pump does not spin at all. The washer
just churns the water that is in the tub without recirculating it. For this situation, the pump is hooked up to
the motor by way of a clutch.

CLUTCH AND FLEXIBLE COUPLING

In this picture, you see the flexible coupling that hooks the clutch up to the pump. The coupling is needed
because the motor and clutch are mounted to the frame, which can move freely with the inner tub, whereas
the pump is mounted to the stationary outer tub. On the bottom of the clutch is a set of four teeth. When the
electromagnet engages, it raises an arm up into these teeth, which stops them from rotating. Once the teeth
are stopped, the clutch starts to engage. After a couple of revolutions, it locks up to the motor shaft and the
pump starts to turn with the motor.
Drive Mechanism
The drive mechanism on a washing machine has two jobs:
● To agitate the clothes, moving them back and forth inside the wash tub.
● To spin the entire wash tub, forcing the water out.
There is a really cool gearbox that handles these two jobs, and it uses the same trick as the pump does. If the
motor spins in one direction, the gearbox agitates; if it spins the other way, the gearbox goes into spin cycle.
First, let's see how everything is hooked up:

GEARBOX ,PUMP,TUBES AND RUBBER TUBE

In this picture, the frame has been removed. You can see the pump mounted to the outer tub, and the
gearbox, which holds the inner tub. A piece of rubber seals the outer tub to the gearbox. The inner tub is
mounted to the gearbox on the other side of the seal.

INNER TUB
The inner tub has been removed from the outer tub in the picture above. It is resting on the gearbox, and the
plastic agitator is visible in the center of the tub.

GEAR
Here you can see the top side of the gearbox with the seal cut and the inner tub removed. The inner tub bolts
to the three holes in the flange of the gearbox. You can see from the buildup of crud on top of the gearbox
that it has been exposed to wash water for many years. A hollow tube extends from the center of the
gearbox. Inside this tube is a splined shaft -- the spline on top of the shaft hooks into the plastic agitator.

Inside the Gearbox

The gearbox is one of the coolest parts of the washing machine. If you spin the pulley on the gearbox one
way, the inner shaft turns slowly back and forth, reversing direction about every half-revolution. If you spin
the pulley the other way, the flange spins at high speed, spinning the whole tub with it.
 GEARBOX MECHANISM
Here you can see a gear with a link attached to it. This link is just like the one attached to an old steam train
wheel -- as the gear (along with the link) turns, it pushes another pie-shaped piece of gear back and forth.
This pie-shaped gear engages a small gear on the inner shaft, which leads to the spline. In addition to
rotating the inner shaft in alternating directions, there are other gears within the system that provide a gear
reduction to slow the rotation. Because the motor spins only at one speed, spin-cycle speed, a gear reduction
is necessary to facilitate the slower wash cycle.
 GEAR REDUCTION
When the washer goes into spin cycle, the whole mechanism locks up, causing everything to spin at the
same speed as the input, which is hooked up to the motor. The interesting thing here is that when the motor
spins the gearbox in one direction, the agitator runs, and when it spins it the other way, the whole machine
locks up. How does it do this? In the figure above, notice the gear with the angled teeth. There is also a
smaller gear with angled teeth behind the big one in the foreground. These are the only two gears with
angled teeth. Depending on which way the gears are spinning, the angle on the teeth will tend to force the
inner gear to slide either to the left or to the right inside the gearbox. If it slides to the left, it engages a
mechanism that locks up the gearbox.

GEARBOX LOCKUP MECHANISM

You can see a small notch in the outer shaft. This notch is hollow, and is attached to the shaft with the small
helical gear. When the small gear moves, it moves this outer shaft with it, and the small notch engages the
single tooth that is fixed to the lockup mechanism. When the gearbox is locked up, both the inner shaft,
which drives the agitator, and the outer shaft, which drives the tub, spin at the same speed as the input
pulley.
Controls
The controls for this machine were designed before microcontrollers were being used in appliances. In fact,
there is not a single resistor or capacitor in the whole machine. First, let's take a look at the cycle switch --
you'll be amazed at what is inside.

CYCLE SWITCH
The cycle switch has the job of determining how long the different parts of the cycle last.

INSIDE CYCLE SWITCH

Inside the switch is a little motor equipped with a very large gear reduction that makes the control dial turn
very slowly. In the top half of the switch, there is a set of six contacts. These are actuated by the small pieces
of metal in the plastic arm on the dial. As the dial spins, bumps on the dial raise and lower the six metal
pieces, which close and open the contacts in the top half of the switch.
 INSIDE CYCLE SWITCH
If you look at the shape of the bumps, you can see why the dial on the washer spins only one way: The front
side of the bumps has a slope that raises up the metal pieces gradually; but the back side doesn't, so if you
try to turn the knob backward, the metal pieces wedge against the bumps. This bumpy plastic disk is really
the software program that runs your washing machine. The length of the bumps determines how long each
part of the cycle lasts, and the length of the space between bumps determines how long the machine pauses
before moving on to its next task.
The speed and temperature control switches are much simpler than the cycle control switch.

SPEED/TEMP CONTROL SWITCJES

These switches control the speed of the motor and determine which of the hot/cold water supply solenoids
will open during the wash and the rinse cycles. If hot is selected, only the hot water solenoid valve will open
when the machine fills; if warm is selected, both will open; and if cold is selected, only the cold water
solenoid valve will open.
 INSIDE SPEED/TEMP CONTROL
The speed/temperature control is pretty simple. Each plastic rocker engages two sets of contacts, either
opening or closing the circuit connected to those contacts. For each switch, there is always one closed and
one open set of contacts.

The level sensor uses a pressure switch to detect the water level in the tub.

WATERLEVEL CONTROL SWITCH

This switch controls how high the tub fills with water.
The big end of the hose connects to the bottom of the tub, while the small end connects to the switch. As the
water level in the tub rises, water rises in the hose also; but the air in the hose is trapped, so as the water
rises, the air is compressed.

INSIDE WATERLEVEL CONTROL SWITCH

Inside the housing of this switch is a little piston. The pressure in the hose pushes the piston up. When it is
raised far enough, it pops up and closes an electrical contact. This set point, where the contact is lost, is
adjustable, and in the picture you can see the cam mechanism that is connected to the adjuster knob on the
control panel of the washer. As the cam turns, it presses a spring against the cylinder, making it harder for
the cylinder to pop up. This means that the water level will have to rise some more before the pressure in the
hose will be high enough to trigger the switch.
CONCLUSION
Cloths washer technology developed as a way to reduce the manual labor spent. The earliest machines were
hand operated and constructed from wood,while later machines made of metal and get powers from
electricity. Front loading machines are better in performance and efficiency.Water consumption is less and
maintance is less.