Aquaponics for Beginners

The Ultimate Crash Course Guide to Learning How to Grow

Vegetables and Raise Fish in 30 Minutes or Less!
 Copyright © 2015
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without permission in writing from the author. Reviewers may quote brief
passages in reviews. No part of this publication may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical or electronic,
including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage and
retrieval system, or transmitted by email without permission in writing
from the publisher.
Disclaimer
The author and publisher have made effort to ensure that
instructions in this book are accurate and safe. While all attempts and
efforts have been made to verify the information held within this
publication, neither the author nor the publisher assumes any
responsibility for errors, omissions, or opposing interpretations of the
content herein.
This book serves as a guide only. The views expressed are those of
the author alone, and should not be taken as expert instruction or
commands. The reader of this book is responsible for his or her own
actions when it comes to reading the book.
Adherence to all applicable laws and regulations, including
international, federal, state, and local governing professional licensing,
business practices, advertising, and all other aspects of doing business in
the US, Canada, or any other jurisdiction is the sole responsibility of the
purchaser or reader.
The author and publisher cannot accept liability for any resulting
injury, damage or loss to person or property. Neither the author nor the
publisher assumes any responsibility or liability whatsoever on the behalf
of the purchaser or reader of these materials. If you have any doubt
regarding the information contained in this book, seek professional advice.
Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 : Chapter 1: What is Aquaponics?

Chapter 2 : Benefits of Aquaponics

Chapter 3 : Fundamentals of Building Your Own Aquaponic System

Chapter 4 : Fish, Plants and Bacteria

Chapter 5 : Cycling

Chapter 6 : Types of Aquaponics System

Conclusion
Introduction
First and foremost I want to thank you for downloading the book,
“Aquaponics for Beginners – The Ultimate Crash Course Guide to
Learning How to Grow Vegetables and Raise Fish in 30 Minutes or Less”.
In this book you will learn how to use fish poo as garden fertilizer and
grow your own food. This book gives you a fresh innovative way of
gardening without the use of soil! Picture a garden with no weeds and soil
pests, no more watering or tilling required.
Start your own aquaponics using a quick simple cost-effective way that
works just like those that cost more. Today’s agricultural techniques are
very time-consuming, expensive and arduous that individuals who want to
try are having difficulty to start. With aquaponics, you can try producing
organic healthy fish and plants- with vegetable yield up to ten times
greater than traditional farming- faster and with minimal maintenance.
If you want to start your own aquaponics but don’t have any idea where to
begin, this is the book for you. This book provides you the basic
information on aquaponics to help you decide on how to build your very
own aquaponics.
By the time you finished reading this book, you will have the know-hows
of aquaponics. You will learn the history, benefits, the different types of
system and things to consider in aquaponics. This guide book is a handy
reference source that you will refer to again and again.
Thanks again for downloading this book, I hope you enjoy it!
Chapter 1: What is Aquaponics?

When you hear the term aquaponics, you would probably think that it is
something that involves water. Well you are on the right track. Simply
stating, aquaponics is a food production or agriculture system. The term
aquaponics is born from the marriage of aquaculture and hydroponics.
Aquaponics is the combination of both that creates a symbiotic
environment- both fish and plants benefit from each other.
In aquaculture, waste- that gives off high concentration of ammonia- from
the aquatic animals being raised stays in the water, increasing toxicity.
Also, excess nutrients must be removed from the system so a percentage
of the water is removed on a daily basis. This needs a large amount of
water. Often, the water removed is disposed into waterways, leading to
pollution and issues on waste disposal. Due to waste-filled waters, fish
disease is common. Hydroponics, on the other hand, is a soil-less
cultivation of plants. The roots of plants are immersed in nutrient-rich
water. It removes problems with traditional farming. You wouldn’t need to
worry about weeds, soil-borne pests, soil-borne diseases or weather
conditions and soil grade. This also means that there is no more watering,
weeding, tiling and plowing. And since water is used instead of soil, plants
can be grown close together using less space. Although hydroponics is a
great farming technique, it has its flaws.
Cost of setting up a hydroponic system is high. Expensive nutrients made
of chemical salt and trace elements are required to grow the plants. These
nutrients and its pH require monitoring with the use of meters. Nutrients
build up in the water so periodic flushing is necessary and careful
deliberation of disposal site is needed. Because aquaculture and
hydroponics have disadvantages, combining both- aquaponics –opens an
avenue to rule out the negative aspects.
One’s trash is another’s treasure. What fish eliminate as waste, plants take
in as sustenance. This is the cycle of aquaponics. The fundamental concept
of aquaponics is to make good use of waste.
Aquaponics is efficient because it lets you produce a source of protein
(fish) and crops using one integrated system. Easy as pie right? So how
does it really work? First of all, aquaponic cycle has three main
components- aquatic animals, plants and microbes (Nitrosomonas and
Nitrobacter).
To simplify the aquaponics cycle, the three stages are:

1. Fish produce ammonia and other waste.

Fish are kept in a water tank and the plants in beds grow
hydroponically. Fish in the tank expel waste and also respire
ammonia into the water. Waste and ammonia build up in the water,
making it toxic for the fish. The waste-filled water is then conveyed
to the plants’ grow bed. The waste-filled water seeps down through
the medium into the roots of plants.

2. Microbes and composting worms convert wastes into free

organic fertilizer.
Good bacteria and composting worms flourish on the surfaces of
grow beds that are in constant contact with water. The Nitrosomonas
species breakdown ammonia from fish wastes into nitrites. Then
Nitrobacter convert nitrites into nitrates, which is a favored food of
plants. Solid buildup is deliquesced by worms into vermicompost
utilized by plants. In other words, nitrates and vermicompost act as
natural fertilizer for the plants.

3. The free sustainable organic fertilizer feeds the plants and

plants filter the water that returns to the fish.
Plants absorb the nutrients from the water. After passing through the
plants, water is filtered clean and oxygenated then returned back to
the fish tanks.
History of Aquaponics
The combination of aquaculture and hydroponics into aquaponics started
in the 1970’s. But tracing back history shows that ancient civilizations
started this amazing cultivation technique. The origins of aquaponics can
be found on the chinampas of Aztec Indians in Mexico and the rice paddy
system of Far Eastern countries.
The Aztecs settled near Lake Tenochtitlan in Mexico City. The lake was
bordered by hills and swamplands. The Aztecs couldn’t find a place to
grow crops. The Aztecs then invented chinampas system as a solution to
their problem. Chinampas system is composed of artificial floating
agricultural islands on lake surfaces and a network of man-made canals
surrounding the city. Aztecs used reeds and rushes to create a raft and
floated it on the surface of the lake ford. These large floating rafts were
covered with nutrient-rich mud that Aztecs dug up from the bottom of the
lake. In circa 1000 A.D., Aztecs raised crops using chinampas. They grew
a variety of crops like maize and squash and at the same time rearing fish.
When the plants mature, their roots dangle in the lake. Nutrient-rich waste
from fish dredged from canals was used to manually water the plants.
While in Far Eastern countries like China, Thailand and Indonesia, people
cultivate rice together with the fish like common and crucian carp, swamp
eels, oriental loach and pond snails in the paddy fields.
China is a massive empire and known today to be the most populated
nation in the world. Food is one of the basic needs of people. Without
constant food supply, the Ancient Chinese knew it is not possible to build
and maintain this vast empire. And where did the Chinese get all the food
from? It’s from the rice paddies. It has been used as early as 1100 B.C.E. It
is the major food source of the Ancient Chinese and even in today’s time.
The rice paddies are situated on steep mountains in terraces to be able to
use non-arable mountain terrain. Rain water floods the rice paddies. This
water contains aquatic animals like eel, carp and ducks that grow in same
area as the rice. Ducks eat fish and bugs. The fish, in turn, live on duck
waste and converts it to nutrients that supply the rice. All Chinese farmers
have to do is to collect the rice, fish and ducks altogether!
Later on, Chinese developed an aquaponic system where they raised ducks,
finfish, catfish and plants in a symbiotic environment. Ducks in cages are
placed over a finfish pond. The duck waste drop into the pond that feeds
the finfish. In another pond, the catfish feed on the waste-filled water
coming from the finfish pond. The rice and vegetable crops, the last part
of the cycle, absorb nutrients coming from the catfish pond water.
Thanks to John and Nancy Todd and William McLarney, founders of New
Alchemy Institute, for the renaissance of aquaponics. In 1969, the result of
their various works was the construction of a model agricultural structure
“Ark”, which is considered as the start of modern day aquaponics. It is a
self-sufficient, solar-powered greenhouse that used a method to supply the
year-round need for fish and vegetables of a family of four, as well as to
provide shelter.
Another notable figure in modern aquaponics is Dr. James Rakocy. In the
1970’s at University of the Virgin Islands, he did research on using
vegetation as natural water filter within fish farm systems.
Ever since, numerous individuals greatly contributed to the evolution of
modern aquaponics. Those were Mark McMurtry and Prof. Doug Sanders
of the closed loop aquaponic system in the mid 1980’s; Missouri farmers,
Tom and Paula Speraneo who introduced their Bioponics idea in the early
1990’s; Canadian researcher Dr.Nick Savidov for further studies on
aquaponics’ potential; and Australian Joel Malcolm, editor of Backyard
Aquaponics magazine in 2007, for creating aquaponics intended for
homeowners.
Chapter 2: Benefits of Aquaponics

Setting up your own aquaponics has a lot of benefits that are enumerated
below.

1. It saves space and can be done anywhere. You don’t need a

large farmland. You can do aquaponics in your garden,
parking lot and even in your own room! This is possible
because you can grow the plants close to each other. Since the
roots are immersed on nutrient rich water there is no
congestion and competition for oxygen and nutrients. It yields
more vegetables than conventional farming.
2. It is cost-effective. You don’t need to shell out a lot of money
for setting up the system. Most of the materials are found at
your local hardware store. Once it’s up and running, your
inputs are mostly fish food and electricity.
3. There are no weeds. Weeds don’t thrive in aquaponic system
because there is no soil.
4. There’s no more watering. Water is constantly re-circulated in
this system. You wouldn’t need to worry of your crops wilting
due to poor irrigating practices.
5. No more tilling and plowing. You can save yourself from back
aches and strains from digging because, again, there is no soil.
6. It is natural; no chemicals or artificial fertilizers are required.
Pesticides are not suitable since it would kill the fish. If
needed, organic alternatives are used.
7. Kill two birds with one stone. You grow fish and vegetables
using one method!
8. Growth rate. Crops grow two times faster because of the
nutrient rich water from fish.
9. Water conservation. No water is discarded in aquaponics
because it is re-circulated. A little amount of water is lost thru
evaporation. It only uses 90% less water than conventional
 farming. It is also suitable in places with little water and in
times of drought.
10. It is healthy. You enjoy eating tastier and healthier fish and
vegetables than those found in grocery stores. You are also
safe from chemicals and pesticides used in traditional
farming.
11. Saves energy. It uses the same amount of electricity that
powers a pair of light bulbs. Renewable and alternative
energy, like solar power, may also be used.
12. It is suitable and accessible for anyone. Aquaponics system
can be modified to fit the needs and condition of the
individual. It can be elevated or lowered to one’s choice and
can be placed anywhere reachable, indoor or outdoor. It is
especially favorable for people with mobility impairment.
13. Self-sufficiency. You produce your own food lowering
household food expenditure.
14. Source of income. You can earn extra income from selling fish
and vegetables.
Chapter 3: Fundamentals of Building Your Own Aquaponic
System

You must have been very thrilled that you are ready to leap out of your
seat and start building. However, before constructing, there are important
factors you need to be aware of, and questions to ask yourself to figure out
if aquaponics is right for you.
So why do you want to do this? May be you are a farmer looking for an
alternative technique that saves you time and money. Or a hobbyist who
wants to give it a go? Do you want a healthier source of food that cuts your
expenses? Do you want extra income? Do you wish for an easier way to
grow your flowers?
Where will you place your system? Would you put it in a greenhouse? In
your backyard? In your room or garage? This determines the size and
appropriate type of system.
Who will take care of the system? Is that person petite or tall? Is that
person young or old? Does that person have any disability or illness? Any
children involved? The system can be customized to the person’s height
and condition.
When will you start? Do you plan to start during summer? Spring? Fall?
Or winter? The time you will start determines what crops and fish you can
raise.
After answering these questions, you will have an idea where to start and
you will be able to envision your system setup.
It is important to know the basic parts that make up the system, regardless
of the system you choose. It is also important to know the function of each
part to be able to create a full functioning aquaponics. The parts discussed
below can be found at your local hardware stores or you can purchase
them online.

1. Fish Tanks : If you have an empty aquarium lying around the

house, you can use this to stock the fish. Alternatively, you
can use any shape of drums, barrels or food-safe containers.
Anything large enough to hold about 50 gallons of water.
 Round fish tanks are commonly preferred because it is
stronger than any shape so less reinforcement is used. Round
shape promotes a good flow of water for the fish to swim
against. Though the size of the tank depends on the size of
aquaponics system as a whole. Use plastic tanks instead of
metal because metal is unsafe for the fish, alters water pH
levels and inhibits plants to absorb nutrients properly. Make
sure that the tanks are not transparent to avoid direct exposure
to sunlight that causes algae to flourish, depleting oxygen
supply for the fish, plants and also the bacteria.
2. Flood Tables : This is the grow bed where plants are
cultivated. Make sure that the container is waterproof and
sturdy enough to hold the grow bed media and plants.
Material should also block sunlight, again, to prevent algae
from thriving, and should be safe like food containers. Ideal
depth is 12 inches. The plant volume should be balanced with
the fish volume and vice versa. If the flood table volume is
disproportionate to the fish tank volume, water may not be
filtered well or plants may not receive enough nutrients
needed.
3. Foundation : This supports the grow bed. You can create the
frame using lumber, steel bars or concrete. If you don’t feel
like making one, you can buy pre-made frames but these cost
more.
4. Grow bed media : This is where plants grow. It offers a place
for nitrifying bacteria and composting worms to proliferate. It
also filters the water of solid wastes. Examples of media used
are gravel, lava rocks and expanded clay pebbles. Make sure
that the media has neutral pH, like clay pebbles, to avoid
affecting water’s pH level. The kind of media to use depends
also on the type of aquaponic system chosen.
5. Water : Water pH levels and temperature must be suitable for
the requirements of fish, plants and bacteria because various
organisms grow in different pH and temperature of water.
 Ideally water pH range for aquaponics is 6.8-7.0 as it fits the
requirements of the three participants. It is also wise for
beginners to raise fish that adjusts to different levels of pH
like tilapia. It is also best to raise fish that survives the
climate of your location. If you live in places with cold
climate, it’s best to raise cold-blooded fish and in tropical
areas, warm-blooded fish. If you live in a four-seasons
country, then raise fish that can adapt to different water
temperature. If you need to warm the water, you can use
aquarium water heaters or use dark container tanks.
Alternatively, you can wrap the fish tanks with black sheets.
6. Pumps : Two kinds of pumps are used in aquaponics- water
pumps and air pumps. Water pumps are vital in the re-
circulation of water from fish to plants and back. Water
should be circulated hourly or less. Choose the right size of
pump that can manage the job. Check the pump’s flow rate
and head pressure. The flow rate tells you how many liters of
water it can pump in a minute or hour. The head pressure
adjusts the flow rate depending on the height of the system.
Choose a reliable brand and make sure no oil will leak in the
fish tank. It is better to choose a bigger pump in case you will
expand your system. You can lower the flow rate in a bigger
pump but you cannot increase flow rate with a small pump.
Air pumps propel oxygen into the water by sucking external air
and drives it into the fish tanks. Sometimes air pumps are attached
to air stones in the fish tank and creates bubble to further aerate
the system.

7. Timer : For ebb and flow system, timer is needed to manage

the switching on and off of the water pumps.
8. Bio-filter : When starting aquaponics system or after cleaning
the grow bed media, you must allow bacteria to colonize
before it becomes self-sustaining. Gravels at the bottom of the
fish tank may be used. A bio-filter can also be used. It is
 where bacteria colonize. Adding a bio-filter depends on the
type of system you choose.
9. Siphon : A bent tube where water flows from one reservoir to
a lower reservoir. In aquaponics, rapid draining of grow beds,
using siphon, pulls oxygen to the roots. Oxygen is essential
for the plants’ growth. Different kinds of siphon are available
in home stores or local hardware. You can also make it using
PVC pipes and tubing.
10. Plumbing : This connects the system together. It includes a
pipes, valves and tubing. The tubing transports air and water
throughout the system.
We are done with the parts needed for your system. In addition to these,
there are products you must have to maintain the system up and running
and to be prepared in worst case scenarios. Those are enumerated below.

1. Test Kits : These kits are used to check the pH, ammonia and
nitrogen level of water. You can check the levels on a daily,
monthly or weekly basis. If these levels are not monitored
regularly, plants and fish may die.
2. Thermometer: It is used to check water temperature. Certain
fish live in certain water temperatures. It is important to check
to ensure the correct balance of water for our fish and plants’
growth. In today’s unpredictable climate change, it is best to
check water at regular intervals. Some thermometers even have
an alarm system.
3. Aqua Back-up units : This detects power failure in cases of
power outage. It automatically turns on to power the water and
air pumps. Once power is restored, the unit turns off
automatically. With this device, you can keep your worries
behind and be able to relax.
4. Aquaponic indoor grow light : If you are planning to put your
system indoors or the location you picked doesn’t get enough
light, you can use grow lights as substitute.
5. Aquaponic Fish Tank Heaters : For raising warm-blooded
fish, this ensures accurate temperature of the fish tank and
prevents it from dropping in case of cooler climate. The heater
can be submerged in the water and heating power depends on
the water volume. Choose a quality brand that will last long.
6. Buffers: When water pH level drops or increases, buffers
stabilize the pH level of the water. Frequent monitoring of pH
water levels help you to determine the need for buffers.
Examples of buffers are calcium carbonate, calcium hydroxide
known as builder’s lime or hydrated lime, potassium hydroxide
(potash) and potassium carbonate (bicarbonate). There are also
buffer kits available that help lower or raise pH. Avoid using
citric acids because of their anti-bacterial property.
Chapter 4: Fish, Plants and Bacteria

As mentioned before, there are three participants in an aquaponics system,

each with its own role to play. This chapter will help you form a clear
understanding of each, so read on!
Fish
Fish are vital in the aquaponics system. They provide the plant
nutrients and can be a protein source for your household. It is important
to choose the right kind of fish breed that can survive in an aquaponics
setting. Choose also a native breed that adapts well to your local
environment and natural climate. Tilapia is advised for those in
tropical areas, while in cooler areas, trout is the choice. Choose also a
breed that can live and breed in tanks. Look for fish breed fingerlings
that are available in your locality. Look also for a breed that does not
eat each other.
Various kinds of fish can be grown in an aquaponics system. When
deciding what kind of fish to raise, it is important to determine what
you want out of your system. Are you growing fish as a food source or
as an ornament?
Some of the varieties of edible fish usually raised in an aquaponics
system are tilapia, carp, trout, jade perch, silver perch, catfish, bass,
barramundi and cod. Ornamental fish grown are usually koi carp and
goldfish. Other aquatic animals may also be raised like crayfish,
mussels, and prawns.
When feeding fish, you must remember to choose fish food
that matches their protein requirements. Plant bugs, slugs, caterpillars
and insect larvae found in plants make a great substitute as fish food.
Not only do you provide fish nourishment, you also save your plants
from damage.
So how many fish should you put in your system? Again, it will depend
on the size of the fish tank and type of system used. Plant volume is
also necessary to take into consideration. There should be enough
plants to filter the water. For beginners it’s better to keep it simple by
choosing lower density. There’s a rule of the thumb that one pound of
full grown fish should have 8 to 10 gallons of water. The ratio for
fingerling is 1/10 pound for every 8 to 10 gallons of water.
Plants
You can plant just about anything, even trees! But different plants
thrive in different settings. Choose plants that grow locally in your area
and based on the season. The trick is to grow seasonal plants together.
During fall or winter, plant cold season plants, and during warmer
times, choose tropical plants.
Ensure that the plants get the right amount of light, water pH level,
temperature, and space. Since aquaponics water pH ranges from 6.8 to
7.0, some plants are not suited in aquaponics system. Blueberries and
raspberries grow in acidic soil with a pH lower than 6.8. On the other
hand, zinnias, chrysanthemums and calendula grow in alkaline soil with
pH higher than 7.
Example of plants that are grown in aquaponics are lettuce, bok choi,
kale, swiss chard, arugula, basil, mint, watercress, chives, thyme,
parsley, coriander, tarragon, sage, rosemary and watercress.
Some plants will grow well when fish tanks are heavily stocked. This is
because they require more nutrients. These are tomatoes, peppers,
cucumbers, beans, peas, chili, strawberry, cucumbers, beans, peas,
squash, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage.
Some have also tried growing bananas and dwarf trees like peach,
lemon and orange.
Starting growing plants in aquaponics have different ways. You can toss
small seeds evenly on the surface of the grow bed. This is effective for
carrots or lettuce. Germinating in wet towels is appropriate for larger
seeds that germinate rapidly like peas and beans. If you want to avoid
the hassle of starting seeds, buy seedlings-a young plant. Before putting
the seedling in the grow bed, shake soil off the roots and place it under
running water to further remove remaining soil. It is recommended to
put seaweed extract or worm juice in a pail of water and swish the
seedlings to remove the soil. The seaweed extract and worm juice aid
the seedling to start well in a new setting, avoiding transplant shock.
In aquaponics, we can space plants twice closer to each other than you
would in soil farming because all the nutrients, oxygen and water
needed by plants are on the roots’ level. So the roots don’t need to
stretch deep. But also keep in mind the plant’s size when spacing to
provide air circulation between plants, allow good penetration of light
and avoid fungus and bugs.
Plants and fish live in one environment so the density of plants is
related to the fish volume. The ratio is 1 square feet or 0.1 square meter
for every 1 pound of fish. Add plants when you start the cycle.
Bacteria
Nitrifying bacteria are the magic elements that act as liaison between
the plants and fish. As aforementioned, bacteria process fish waste into
plant fertilizers. Without this link, the cycle will not work.
Two distinct nitrifying bacteria play this vital role- Nitrosomonas and
Nitrobacter. Normally there are bad bacteria in the system. The
nitrifying bacteria do not only process fish waste, but they also help
fight bad bacteria in fish intestines and on plants’ roots and prevent
those from coming back.
Chapter 5: Cycling

If your system is new, most likely there are only few bacteria in the fresh
water. Good bacteria must be established first, before the system is fully
operational. This process is termed as “cycling”. Adding ammonia starts
the cycle. There is fish cycling and fishless cycling.
Fish Cycling
In fish cycling, ammonia from fish waste attracts the nitrifying
bacteria, Nitrosomonas, and convert ammonia into nitrites. Nitrites are
still toxic for the fish, but the good thing is that nitrites attract
Nitrospira that convert nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are non-toxic for
the fish and readily absorbed by plants. It is better to start cycling with
goldfish, since those are fairly tolerant of ammonia or fingerlings of
any fish breed you want. Feed the fish small amount not more than
once per day. If algae build up, stop feeding the fish until the algae
clears up. Remember that these fish are sacrificial. Once ammonia
builds up, it will, sooner or later, kill the fish. And at higher water
temperature and pH, ammonia becomes more toxic. Regularly
monitor ammonia, pH and nitrogen levels in the water using tester kits.
This cycling takes about 4 to six weeks. After this period, bacteria are
established and you can stock fish of your choice.
Seen below is a table of ammonia levels in mg/L or ppm at a given
temperature and pH.
pH 20°C (68°F) 25°C (77°F)
6.5 15.4 ppm 11.1 ppm
7.0 5.0 ppm 3.6 ppm
7.5 1.6 ppm 1.2 ppm
8.0 0.5 ppm 0.4 ppm
8.5 0.2 ppm 0.1 ppm

If ammonia goes beyond the levels on the table you may remove one
third of the tank’s water and replace it with fresh de-chlorinated water.
Water temperature affects the growth rate of fish. Therefore, it also
affects the speed of cycling. The ideal range of temperature is between
25°c to 30°C (77°F-86°F). Growth rate decreases by 50% at 18°C
(64°F), and 75% at 8°C to 10°C (46°F-50°F). At 4°C (39°F), growth
stops. Fish die at 0°C (32°F) and below or above 49°C (120°F).
The ideal pH of water ranges from 6.8 to 7.0 in an aquaponics system.
During cycling you can keep the water pH at a range from 6.0 to 7.0.
Most fish prefer an alkaline environment so do not let your water go
below a pH of 6.0. But be mindful also not to let it go above 7.0
because it suggests high ammonia concentration. Water pH levels also
tend to go down over time because conversion of ammonia to nitrates
releases hydrogen ions making the water more acidic. You can adjust
pH level using buffers discussed in the previous chapter. But make sure
to slowly regulate the pH to avoid stressing the fish. High fluctuations
of pH stresses out the fish and is much dangerous than pH outside the
range. Recommended daily change of pH should be at a maximum of
0.2.
Nitrite is more toxic to fish than ammonia. It binds to blood and
prevents the fish from taking up oxygen. Fish dies of what they call
“brown blood disease”. By adding salt to the system, you can prevent
this from happening. The chloride in salt binds to nitrites, keeping
nitrites out of the fish. Put 1 kg of salt for one thousand liters of water.
Dissolve the salt first before adding to the tank to avoid salt crystals
depositing at the bottom burning fish that are not tolerant to salt. Use
water softener salt or salt formulated for fish.
Add plants as soon as you start cycling. They take up the nitrates from
the fish water. You might not see any new growth yet or see signs of
stress like yellowing leaves but it is fine. Adding plants early in the
cycling, prepares the plants to establish roots in a new environment.
Fishless Cycling
Fishless cycling is faster compared to fish cycling. It takes ten days to
three weeks for bacteria to build up. There is no need to add fish at this
point. You need to add a different source of ammonia in the water to
start the cycle. Water from an up and running aquaponics system is best
used since bacteria have already colonized the water. If you don’t know
anyone near with an existing aquaponics system, pure form of liquid
ammonia or ammonium chloride may be used. Take care not to use
domestic ammonia that contains other chemicals. Urea fertilizer or
dead fish and prawn is another alternative. Urea and rotting fish
decomposes to ammonia. Some also use “peeponics”- in layman’s term,
human pee. It might be gross but urine contains urea that breaks down
to ammonia when aged in a closed bottle. Choosing “peeponics”,
though, has the possibility of transferring harmful bacteria coming
from the digestive system. This method is not applicable if you are
taking medications. Monitor ammonia and nitrogen level with test kits
to determine when to add fish. Here’s a clue, start stocking fish once
nitrates appear at 5 to 10 ppm and nitrites have gone to zero.
Deciding what cycling to use depends on preference, comfort and
resources.
You have learned the fundamental elements of aquaponics. It’s time to
decide what system to use. The succeeding chapter will discuss each
type enumerated below.
Media filled bed
NFT : Nutrient Film Technique
DWC : Deep Water Culture
Chapter 6: Types of Aquaponics System

There are three types of system you can use in aquaponics. You can make
your system as simple or as complex as you like. You can craft your own
system by upcycling materials found in your home or by ordering
commercially prepared sets. You can tailor the size of your system to fit
your needs.

1. Media Filled Beds

This is the most frequent and simplest type of system backyard
aquaponics owners use. It uses a bed that contains media, like gravel,
where plants are grown. Fish tanks, usually, are placed beside or above
the grow beds and a siphon or water pump is used to convey water from
fish tank to grow bed. This system runs using a simple flood and drain,
ebb and drain method or continuous flow of water. This type of system
is compact which is good for small spaces especially in urban areas.
With a simple flood and drain method, water pump is used. When
problems with the pump or power supply arises, water goes back to the
fish tank. Solid wastes may also clog the tubes especially if the pump
has a limited pumping ability. Timer controls the pumping and draining
of water. Water level in the fish tank also changes when flooding the
grow beds.
Ebb and flow is similar to a simple flood and drain style. But for ebb
and flow, it mimics the natural tidal wave cycle. The pump runs
continuously and a bell siphon manages the flood and drain cycle. The
grow beds are slowly flooded and then rapidly drained. The rapid
draining of water draws the oxygen to the roots of the plants.
With continuous flow, water flows at a certain subsurface level in one
end of the grow bed and exits in the other. Water may also flow on the
surface thru a grid pipe with holes at intervals and seedling are placed
near the holes to have access to nutrient-rich water. This method is
simple and reliable. Plants get constant supply of nutrients and water,
and prevents fish tank water level fluctuations. Algae may build up
when using grid pipes on the surface because water is exposed to
sunlight, unlike in the set up where water enters beneath the surface
because water is not exposed to sunlight. Pipes must be cleaned at
regular intervals. There’s also a problem with nitrification because
water flows straight down the media to the outlet without delivering all
the nutrients to the grow bed.

2. Nutrient Film Technique

It is a method used in hydroponics invented by Dr. Allan Cooper of
Glasshouse Crops Research Institute in 1960’s. Plants in small media-
filled plastic cup are grown in a pipe-like system. The plastic cups have
holes at the bottom to permit the roots to have contact with the nutrient-
rich water. A shallow stream of fish water is pumped continuously in
these enclosed tubes. Water used must be filtered before going into the
channels because unfiltered water from fish tank contains particles that
get stuck on the roots, impeding nutrient and oxygen absorption.
This system is also good to use if you plan on doing vertical farming.
Series of pipes can be placed vertically on walls. You can also inspect
the roots easily by lifting the plastic cups from the tubes. There are
limited varieties of plants you can grow in this type. Because the tubes
are lightweight, green leafy vegetable or herbs are commonly used.
Large invasive plants are heavy for the tubes to hold. Root rot may be a
problem because the plant’s roots are constantly immersed in water. To
avoid this, make sure that the water has sufficient oxygen by using air
stones. Solid build up may clog the system so make the cap on one end
of the tube removable for easy cleaning. Use also a filter system to
avoid solid wastes from water to enter the tubes. Also choose plants that
doesn’t have invasive roots so the system will not be clogged.

3. Deep Water Culture

It is also known as raft or floating system. In deep water culture, plants
grow on rafts, usually polystyrene boards that float on water while the
roots dangle in the water. Plants are grown in small pots or cup filled
with media. These pots are inserted on holes in the raft that keep the
plants afloat. Rafts may float directly on top of the fish tank. But more
commonly, the rafts float on a separate channel and water from the fish
tank is pumped to a filtration system going into the channel. Just like in
 NFT, water must be filtered to remove particles and solid materials that
may clog the roots and inhibit oxygen and nutrient absorption.
This system provides bacteria a large surface area to colonize. Even in
the raft tanks, beneficial bacteria are present. The downside is that it
cannot be used for large heavy plants like cauliflower. The pots are not
stable to support high plants so stick to low plants. Vining plants are not
suitable because the system cannot support it. This type of system is
suitable for leafy vegetables like lettuce and herbs. Aeration is also a
problem because water surface is covered in rafts. A way to solve this is
by installation of air pump system.
You can have your do-it-yourself aquaponics system. A step by step guide
will be enumerated below on how to build a small media based aquaponics
system.

1. Build the frame first. You may purchase the Antonius frame at
IKEA or a similar product from home depots or hardware
stores. For this set up we will use the Antonius frame with 2
wire baskets, a 50 liter container for the fish tank and a 25
liter container as grow bed. Assemble all the parts.
2. Line the outside of the fish tank container with black PVC
plastic sheet to darken the tank.
3. Select a 600 liters per hour water pump of any quality brand
in your locality. Place it on one corner of the fish tank
container.
4. Get a threaded male and female adapter. Drill a hole about 6
to 7 centimeters at one edge of the grow bed container
opposite the corner of the water pump in the fish tank
container. Make sure that the female adapter fits the wire
mesh when drilling the hole. The hole should tightly fit the
male adapter.
5. Place the male adapter through the hole from the inside of the
grow bed container with the threads facing downward. Put an
O-ring on the threads of the male adapter and fasten the
female adapter tightly, making it waterproof.
 6. Put a 25mm to 13mm reducer on top of the male adapter.
The adapters and reducer form the standpipe where the water will leave
the grow bed.

7. Place a 60mm bell siphon over the reducer. You can cut parts
at the bottom of the siphon or drill holes about 1 inch height
serving as water inlets.
8. A covered 100 mm media guard is placed over the bell siphon
to keep the roots and media from the bell siphon. Holes are
also drilled around the media guard to let water into the
siphon.
9. Attach a T-bar to the water pump. Imagine a letter ‘T’
inverted to the left side and the bottom is attached to the water
pump.
10. Attach a ball-valve bypass in the middle of the T-bar, making
a horizontal pipe. This diverts water back to the tank giving
the water some movement and aeration. You can also control
the water going to the grow bed with this pipe
11. On the top part of the T-bar, attach a 90°elbow then connect a
13mm pipe. Attach another 90° elbow to it and attach another
13mm pipe beside the grow bed container that is slightly
longer than the grow bed container height. Fasten another 90°
elbow on top of the vertical pipe. Attach another 13mm pipe
to the elbow making it parallel to the grow bed container. This
setup conveys the water from the fish tank to the grow bed.
12. Add water and grow bed media. Check if the system is
working. If it is working you may add plants and fish.
Conclusion

Thank you again for downloading this book!

I hope this book was able to help you to learn the technique of raising fish
and vegetables with aquaponics.
The next step upon successful completion of this book is to go out and put
into practice the information you have gained from reading it, and start
growing plants and fish through aquaponics!
Finally, if you enjoyed this book, please take the time to share your
thoughts and post a review on Amazon. It’d be greatly appreciated!
Thank you and good luck!