Padparadscha What S in A Name PDF

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PADPARADSCHA:

WHAT'S IN A NAME?
By Robert Crowningshield

ome years ago the Gem Trade Laboratory in New


For over 100 years, reference has been
made to a unique sapphire, the color of a
lotus blossom, the padparadscha. Yet the
S York was asked to identify a natural, rather intense
pinkish orange sapphire as "natural sapphire, variety pad-
precise hue represented b y this rare stone paradscha" and we obliged. After all, it seemed to fit the
has been a subject o f discussion, and description for the term which appears in GIA1sown cor-
often controversy, ever since the term
respondence course, and we had seen such stones only
was first introduced. In an effort t o
establish some grounds for a common rarely.
understanding, the author reviews the Then one day about five years ago we were aslzed to
historical references t o the padparadscha call a dark brownish orange stone "variety padparadscha"
sapphire, examines the modern usage of at the insistence of a jeweler's customer, who was buying
the term, and states GIA's current it in an expensive ring. The jeweler, who had originally
interpretation of the trade name purchased the stone as an "African padparadscha," lost
padparadscha. the sale when the laboratory report merely stated "nat-
ural brownish orange sapphire." From this point on, we
agreed that we would no longer use the term padparad-
scha on our reports, especially since other definitions
were found to be different from that given in GIA1s
courses.
The experience prompted us to do some research into
the history, derivations, and general understanding of the
term in the trade. The results of this investigation are
summarized here.

I-IISTORY
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Just how the romantic term padparadscha came about,
Mr. Crowningshield is vice president of the Gem when it was first used, and by whom is an interesting
Trade Laboratory, Inc., New York, Gem study in itself. Many have never questioned that the term
Identification Department. was derived through the Gernlan language from p a d m a -
Ackrtowledgments: The author is indebted to GIA ragaya (padma = lotus, raga = color), the yellow-pink
Librarians Dona Dirlam, Santa Monica, and Lillian
Hensel, New York City, for their assistance in
Oriental lotus ( n e l u m b o nucifera), which is illustrated in
searching the literature. Special thanks also go to figure 1. However, some in-depth library research has
Ralph Esmerian. Roland Naftule, :he American come up with conflicting, but interesting, results.
Museum of Natural History, and the Los Angeles
County Museum of Natural History for their
The earlies~referenceto the term in gemological lit-
cooperation in the preparation of the erature is found in Keferstein (1849).On page 13 of M i n -
photographs. eralogia Polyglotto, under "Our Ruby," he states that the
"1 983 Gemological Institute of America term padmaraga in Sanscrit refers to lotus color or

30 Padparadscha GEMS 8: GEMOLOGY Spring 1983


rose red. On the next page, Keferstein notes that
the term also appears in Bengali: padmaraga and
padmaragmani, "mani" being the suffix for stone.
It is interesting to note that this earliest descrip-
tion of the padparadscha color is for some variant
of red, probably toward pink, and not for orange,
which seems to be a strictly modem develop-
ment. (Holland 118981 also uses the term pad-
maraga for the finest color ruby.) Embrey and
Fuller (1980) state the following for the first ref-
erences to the term, the ones most commonly
cited.
Padparadschah, A.K. Coomaraswamy, Ad-
ministration Reports, Ceylon, for 1904, part 4
Mineralogical Survey, 1905, p. El6 (Padmara- Figure I . The Oriental lotus (nelumbo nucifera]
gaya). M. Bauer, Edelsteinkunde Leipzig, 2nd
from which the term padparadscha w a s
Edit. 1909, p. 363 (patparachan].R. Brauns, adopted. Photo Miguel Rodriguez.
Kunstliche Schmucksteine, Handwijrterbuch
der Naturwissenschaften, 1913, vol. 8, p. 968
[Padparadschah). German corruptions (with editions of his text Gemstones illustrates this
other variations] of the Sinhalese padmara- frustration: "Padparadschah, padparadscha or
gaya, from padma, lotus and raga, colour. A other corrupt form of the Sinhalese word, pad-
trade name for reddish-yellow gem corundum, maragaya (lotus-color), has been introduced for
now used more especially for the artificially the yellowish aurora-red gem material from Cey-
produced material. 8
lon, but has become more commonly used for the
Here we see at the tum of the century the deriva- synthetic material of similar tint. There is no real
tion of the term from the Sinhalese word pad- need for this fantastic term, and it may be hoped
maragaya, again meaning lotus color, but now that it will pass into disuse."
pertaining to a reddish yellow gem, rather than Unfortunately, Smith's hope has not been re-
simply red. alized. In recent years, possibly due to the influ-
It is appropriate to note at this point that a ence of gem investment houses, requests for the
healthy lotus blossom is, when about to open, a Gem Trade Laboratory to use the term on reports
beautiful rosy red color. As the flower opens, one have increased. Perhaps if the synthetic sapphire
sees that the tips of each petal are pink shading had never been produced and if Sri Lanka (Ceylon)
into yellow, with the future seed pod in the center were still the only source of these very rare colors
a bright yellow. Completely open flowers fade of sapphire, the term would not be the problem
considerably so that the tips of each petal are pale that it has become. With the discovery of fancy-
pink shading into white. Possibly the early colored sapphires in East Africa (figure 2)) espe-
descriptions of lotus color vary because the cially Tanzania, there has arisen the desire on the
blossoms vary. However, early descriptions do part of dealers to use the term as a variety of sap-
not mention orange, though reddish-yellow is phire because it is passingly familiar everywhere.
mentioned. Thus it seems that rather than eliminating pad-
In 1909, Max Bauer, the dean of gemological paradscha from the language, the trade is foster-
writers, used the term patparachan for "reddish ing its use.
yellow" gem corundum.' In his 1932 edition, by
which time synthetic corundum of this color was
plentiful, Bauer spells the term padparadscha, 'Prior to 1909, Bauer along with most gemologjcal
writers followed the common practice of using the
the spelling we continue to use today, and de- term Oriental, to indicate that a gem under
cribes it as "orange to reddish yellow." discussion was in fact corundum, in conjunction
The meaning of the term padparadscha with the name of a common stone or other material
to indicate color. Thus his "Oriental amethyst" is
continued to be a cause for confusion, however. purple sapphire and "Oriental hyacinth" is orange
An entry in G. F. Herbert Smith's 1940 and earlier sapphire.

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 31


Had the term been used consistently only for within the capability of others to manufacture
reddish yellow natural gem sapphires (after first orange to orange-red flux-grown synthetic stones.
establishing what that color is!), it might have This would probably tempt the use of the term
graduated from being a trade name to a bona fide for marketing them.
variety name alongside ruby, amethyst, emerald, Some purists insist that the term must be re-
and alexandrite. As we see in table 1, however, served exclusively for Sri Lankan sapphires of a
later writers have attributed the name to a be- delicate pinkish orange color. Others, citing the
wildering description of colors. Significantly, the definitions of some authors (again, see table 1)
popular perception of the color as reddish yellow which state merely orange, or, in some cases,
shifted dramatically when Kunz (1915) quoted brownish orange, as well as orange-red, have up-
Claremont's 1913 description of what he calls set purists by merchandising fancy-colored sap-
padparasham: "It is a most rare and delicate phires from East Africa under the term African
orange-pink hue, the various specimens showing padparadscha.
many different blendings of the pinlz and orange." Although the majority of definitions cited
here mention orange as a requirement for using
the term, the modifiers make it virtually impos-
MODERN USAGE sible to visualize any one color as "right." For in-
OF THE TERM stance, "light, bright orange," "yellowish aurora-
In our own time, the red-orange and brown-orange red," "intense, rnedium slightly reddish orange,"
to yellowish orange stones from Tanzania, as well and "somewhat brownish orange," are a few of
as orange, orange-yellow, and orange-brown heat- the variations. "Salmon pinlz" further muddies
treated or surface-diffused natural sapphires (see the water. Perhaps one reason for the wide range
Nassau, 1981, p. 129), have further complicated of descriptions is the extreme rarity of fine orange-
the nomenclature. Meanwhile, in addition to the toned stones from Sri Lanlza, with the result that
flame-fusion synthetic material introduced by a many authors have not had the chance to expe-
number of manufacturers some years ago, Kyo- rience a wide range of these stones or have based
cera International, Inc., of Kyoto, Japan, is now their observations on the rather more common,
marketing a nearly pure orange synthetic sap- but still rare, synthetic stones. At one time the
phire (method of synthesis unknown) under the reason given for the scarcity of fine natural pad-
name "Inamori grown padparadscha" (figure 3). paradscha sapphires was that they are so valued
Chatham Created Gems, Inc., has made and plans in the Orient (where saffron is a holy color in
to offer a flux-grown orange-colored synthetic many places) that they never reach the West. It
sapphire as "Created padparadscha" (illustrated would appear, however, that just plain rarity may
in Kane, 1982, p. 141). Similarly, it is probably be the real reason.

32 Padparadscha GEMS 8i GEMOLOGY Spring 1983


TABLE 1. A chronological listing of the use of the term padparadscha in the available literature.
Color Reference Color Reference
1. Reddish yellowa Coomaraswamy, 1904 22. Orangea Giibelin, 1968
("padmaragaya") 23. Reddish to somewhat Sinkankas, 1968
2. Reddish yellowa Bauer, 1909 brownish-orangea
3. Reddish yellowa Brauns, 1913 24. Orangy yellow to Parsons. 1969
("padparadschah") orangea
4. Rare and delicate Kunz, 1915; after 25. Orange (more orange Feasey, 1970
orange-pinka Claremont, 1913 than pink)a
5. Orange-yellowb Michel, 1928 26. Orangea CIBJO, 1970
6. Orange to reddish Bauer, 1932 27. Gorgeous orangea Desautels, 1971
yellowa 28. Rare orange-redc Mason and Packer, 1973
7. Light bright orange a Gravender, 1933 29. Subtle pink-orangec Arem, 1973
8. Salmon pinkb Spencer, 1936 30. Intense orangy pink Bank, 1973
9. Orange to orange-red Juergens, 1939 ( P 33)"
with tints of browna 31. Light orangy yellow to Shipley, 1974
10. Yellowish aurora red Smith. 1940 yellowc
( p 222)" 32. Slightly reddish Liddicoat, 1975 (and
Peculiar reddish orangea earlier editions)
yellow (p. 143)b 33. Orangea Webster, 1975
11. Orangeb Kraus and Slawson, 1947 34. Touch of pink in its McNeil, 1976
12. Peculiar orange-pinkc Webster, 1947 orangea (as opposed
13. Golden red (p. 103)" Pearl, 1948 to Tanzanian stones
Orange (p. 252)C so labeled)
14. Rare orangea Foshag, 1950 35. Pinkish orangep Anderson, 1976
15. Tangerine coloreda McNeil, 1950 36. Orange pinka Schumann, 1977
Orange 'to pinkish I
37. Yellow with totally Arem. 1977
orangeb reflected tones of
16. Reddish yellow Schlossmacher, 1954 pinka
(p. 1153" 38. Rare orange-yellow to Hurlbut and Switzer, 1979
Orange (p. 124)" orangea
17. Reddish yellowc Weinstein, 1958 -
39. Oranaeb Nassau. 1980
18. Yellow-orange or Cavenago-Bignami 40. Tangerine coloreda Chernush, 1980
tangerine (p. 357)" Moneta, 1959 41. Pinkish orange ("an Newman, 1981
Orange-tangerine unnecessary term")"
(p. 804)"
42. Intense, medium GIA Colored Stones
19. Orangea Weber, 1959 slightly reddish course, 1983
20. Orangea Baerwald and Mahoney, orangea
1960
21. Orange (p. 180)b Anderson, 1964
1
Peculiar brownish
orange (p. 305)'-'

"Relers to natural sapphires.


bRelers to synthetic sapphires.
"Refers to both natural and synthetic sapphires

IMPORTANT EXAMPLES OF phire." A n o t h e r stone in t h i s collection, w e i g h i n g


STONES LABELED PADPARADSCHA 6.5 1-ct, i s labeled "Padparadscha sapphire." A n -
A few collections o f precious stones o n p u b l i c o t h e r stone nearby, o f 16.36 ct, i s called s i m p l y
v i e w have one o r m o r e sapphires t h a t t h e cura- "Orange sapphire." (All three o f these stones are
t o r s have labeled padparadscha. An 11.95-ct illustrated in t h e Spring 1977 issue o f Gems d
stone f r o m t h e H i x o n C o l l e c t i o n at t h e L o s An- Gemology, pp. 270-271.) N o t in t h e H i x o n C o l -
geles C o u n t y M u s e u m o f N a t u r a l H i s t o r y i s l a - l e c t i o n but p a r t o f t h e museum's general collec-
beled "Pink padparadscha-a bi-colored sap- t i o n i s a rather flat p i n k i s h orange sapphire in a

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 33


Figure 3. A synthetic sapphire marketed by Figure 5. The large orange sapphire (precise
Kyocera International, Inc., in Kyoto, lapan, as weight, 100.18 ct) in the Morgan Collection at
"lnamori grown padparadscha." This stone the American Museum of Natural History in
weighs 1.05 ct. Photo by Tino Hammid. New York. Photo by Tino Hammid.

erate "bow tie." In the "bow tie" area the color


appears yellowish orange, while the ends appear
intense reddish orange. This Morgan sapphire was
the standard that one collector used years ago as
a guide in selecting a 40-ct stone that he consid-
ered the "crown jewel" and most valuable stone
in his collection. Unfortunately, when his estate
was critically examined, the stone was found to
be synthetic. However, not every lznowledgeable
collector and dealer considers the Morgan stone
to be a "true" padparadscha. One astute collector
complained that it was too orange at the ends and
yellow in the middle with none of the tantalizing
pinkish orange he looks for. Figure 6 is a 30-ct
pinkish orange natural sapphire that most quali-
Figure 4. This approximately 14-ct stone,
donated to the Los Angeles County Museum of fied dealers and many observers at GIA and the
Natural History in 1955 as a "padparadscha GIA Gem Trade Lab have agreed satisfies their
sapphire," was only recently determined to be understanding of the term.
a Verneuil synthetic. Photo by Mike Havstad.
CONCLUSION
It has been suggested that the GIA, in cooperation
ring which many people feel is "true" padparad- with other trade and educational organizations,
scha color (figure 4). However, while we were pre- should make an effort to standardize the term
paring a photo for this article the stone was de- padparadscha with the aim of establishing cri-
termined to be a Vemeuil synthetic. teria by which a true variety of corundum could
Figure 5 is the 100-ct orange sapphire in the be established.
Morgan Collection of gems at the American Mu- Unfortunately, no tests that a gemologist can
seum of Natural History in New York City. This make are helpful. The stones from Sri Lanka that
stone is perhaps the largest and finest orange Sri resemble the above-noted 30-ct stone fluoresce
Lankan sapphire on public display anywhere. It and have chromium absorption lines in the spec-
has been used locally in New York as the "master trum but no iron lines. Similar pinkishlbrownish
padparadscha" by some gem dealers and collec- orange stones from East Africa have an iron line
tors. It is a superb stone-the outstanding gem in and weak chromium lines but have very weak to
its display case featuring numerous other fancy- no fluorescence. Clearly, no set of chemical or
color sapphires. It is oval in shape with a mod- physical constants exists to make the determi-

34 Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983


Figure 6. This 30-ct pinkish orange sapphire
w a s believed b y m a n y observers from both
GIA and the trade t o agree w i t h their
perception of t h e term padparadscha. Photo b y
Tino Hammid.
Figure 7. The term padparadscha has also been
applied-and m a n y feel aptly-to this 1126-ct
sapphire crystal found recently i n t h e
nation. One half-joking suggestion is that if we Ratnapura district of Sri Lanka. Photo 1983
are convinced of the derivation of the term as Tino H a m m i d .
coming from the Sinhalese words meaning lotus
color, we could have a master lotus blossom-or
two. (A dying blossom would further allow the If the term is to have merit today, it will have to
brown shades of sapphires to qualify!) However, be limited to those colors historically attributed
we have no evidence that an orange variety of lo- to padparadscha and found as typical colors in Sri
tus exists. Lanka. It is GIA's opinion that this color range
In spite of the confusion in the literature re- should be limited to light to medium tones of
garding the descriptions of the term, lznowledge- pinlzish orange to orange-pinlz hues. Lacking del-
able veterans of the gem trade are in better agree- icacy, the dark brownish orange or even medium
ment than this article so far indicates. For brownish orange tones of corundum from East
instance, all dealers who were shown the slide Africa would not qualify under this definition.
reproduced in figure 6 agreed that it was an ex- Deep orangy red sapphires, lilzewise, would not
cellent rendition of their understanding of the qualify as fitting the term padparadscha.
color of a padparadscha. All of those we spolze This new description will replace that given
with who saw the spectacular 1126-ct pinlzish in the current GIA Colored Stone course when it
orange sapphire crystal from Sri Lanlza pictured is next revised. Because of the subjectivity of the
in figure 7 also agreed that the color was aptly term, however, the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory,
referred to as padparadscha. Inc., will continue its policy of not using pad-
It is clear that the term padparadscha was ap- paradscha on identification reports, treating it
plied initially to fancy sapphires of a range of in the same manner as the trade grades Kashmir
colors in stones found in what is now Sri Lanlza. sapphire and Siberian amethyst.

Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983 35


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Books, London. Color. National Jewelers, Chicago.
Anderson B.W. (1976) Gemstones for Everyman. Faber and Kane R.E. (1982)The gen~ologicalproperties of Chatham flux-
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36 Padparadscha GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1983

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