Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Complete Mag
Complete Mag
Complete Mag
HOUSE OF SUNNY
Produces small runs of each collection in a bid to act against fast
fashion. Producing just two seasonal collections a year allows the
design team to spend more time researching and sourcing sustain-
able fabrics and manufacturing methods.
EthicsCON&T -----
04 20
12
7 FORMS OF SUSTAINABLE ROCKFELLER AND SWAROVSKI HOW SUSTAINABLE IS STELLA
FASHION COLLABS MCCARTNEY
Growing interests in sustainablitity Swarovski collaborates with philan- Highlighting the uniqueness of this
within fashion industry and how throphist and conservationist collaboration between the queen of
sustainable fashion dates back into Susan Rockefeller - panda-themed vegetarian luxury brands and the
history jewellery will help protect giant king of the white sneakers.
pandas in China and other envi-
ronmental programmes
08 16
------------------------
BIRTH OF PILLARS OF
FASHIONNOVATION SUSTAINABILITY
02
&TENTAes
S
------
theti cs
38
28 50
GUCCI GOING CARBON ECO-VEGAN SHOE BRAND HOROSCOPES
NEUTRAL
Announces Upcoming Fashion Taylor & Thomas, founded by two What fashion industry beholds for the
runway in Milan to be carbon females , a luxury vegan shoe brand zodiac signs?
neutral stealing hearts of all the animal
lovers.
32 46
------------------------
03
The 60s were a time which saw young
people rebelling against the establish-
ment, through their choice of clothes,
lifestyle and music. These young people,
the ‘hippies’, were also anti-fashion. They
embraced the natural fabrics and were
all for a return to the simpler mode of
life, as against the prevailing highly con-
sumerist society of that time. They were
the founders of the sustainable fashion.
The Goth and Punk movements of the
70s-80s rejected conventional fashion
and preferred the unique vintage and
second-hand clothing of earlier eras,
thus in a way starting the trend of recy-
cling or re-wearing clothes.
04 https://youtu.be/NDx711ibD1M
The sustainabili-
ty movement en-
compasses three
core elements:
collection, col-
laboration, and
craft.
WHAT IS
SUSTAINABLE
FASHION?
Despite the growing interest in sustaina-
bility issues within the fashion industry,
writes Anna Brismar, currently there is no
common definition of what sustainable
fashion actually means.
Make it last uses Green Strategy’s defi-
nition of “more sustainable fashion” as a
starting point:
“More sustainable fashion can be defined
as clothing, shoes and accessories that
are manufactured, marketed and used in
the most sustainable manner possible,
taking into account both environmental
and socio-economic aspects. In practice,
this implies continuous work to improve
all stages of the product’s life cycle, from
design, raw material production, manu-
facturing, transport, storage, marketing
and final sale, to use, reuse, repair, remake
and recycling of the product and its com-
ponents.” Melba Blouse made of silky organic
Tencel by SHIPSHEIP. Kitty-Pants by
HØYEM, made with black twill of or-
05
RENT THE RUNWAY
1. Pick your look
2. Wear.Swap.Repeat
06
07
----------
Splexiand
mplicity. “The definition of genius is taking the com-
making it simple”
– Albert Einstein
Igrounds
nclusivity. “Diversity and inclusion, wich are the real
for creativity, must remain at the center of what
we do.”
– Marco Bizzarri
08
Birth of Fashionnovation
Values:
Mission
Connect entrepreneurs and innovators to
create positive change in the fashion indus-
09
10
Questions to ask yourself before shopping:
https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/questions-conscious-consum-
ers-should-ask-before-buying-clothing
11
LAB GROWN
B R IL L IA N T E A R T H
Are you looking for the perfect engagement ring? Then custom-
ize your own and surprise your significant other with a very
special hand-crafted Brilliant Earth piece. Select your diamonds
and gemstones by shape, cut, color, clarity, and carat. Choose
from different precious metals which are primarily recycled
& re-refined (platinum, 18K yellow, and white gold, 14K rose
gold or silver) and decide what style you like your ring to be.
The options are endless. And you will feel extra good: Brilliant
Earth is the global leader in ethically sourced fine jewelry. Aside
from their “Beyond Conflict Free” natural diamonds, they use
lab-created diamonds to make their exquisite jewels. We could
spend hours on their website. Free international shipping.
Price range: $450 -$3.290 USD
Website: brilliantearth.com
Instagram:@brilliantearth
12
LARK & BERRY
Supermodel Martha Hunt was one of Lark & Berry’s first sup-
porters and was proudly wearing their lab-grown diamond
pieces during the Cannes Film Festival. Besides their colorless
diamonds of category F and VS+ in clarity (eye-clean), Lark &
Berry also creates beautiful gemstones using lab technology.
Find their most precious jewels in the “Fine Jewelry” section
that features pieces in platinum and 18K gold with fancy cul-
tured gemstones and diamonds. In the Demi-Fine Jewelry, you
can shop playful 14K gold (white, yellow & rose) pieces with
cultured diamonds. Bespoke items are coming soon! Free de-
livery on all orders to wherever you are. You can also come by
their store in London.
Price range: £200 – £78.000
Website: larkandberry.com
Instagram: @larkandberry
N DIAMONDS
13
“I B EL I E V E B E
F EL L A R S
CO L L E C TIO
ABRACELETFROMSUSANROCKEFELLERANDSWAROVSKI’SCOLLABORATION
14
EAUT Y C A N SAV E U S”, S U S A N R O C K-
K-
SAYS AS SWA R OVS KI J E W EL L ERY
ON ON PA NDA T HEM E S HE HEL P ED
D
DEESI
SI GN L AUNCHES
AUNCH ES
protect the panda’s natural habitat. Winners included Melephant, which makes organic
dyes from waste such as coffee grounds; Heyuan, which
Rockefeller has long been committed to protecting nat- develops safe water treatment systems for prints and dyes;
ural environments. Her mother was an anthropologist and FeiLiu Technology, which is uses AI to serve smaller
and educator, and her father a businessman and conser- designers and limit overproduction.
vationist. She studied environmental studies and spent She says that China’s designers are leading the way when
three years living with Inuit tribes in the Arctic to learn it comes to sustainability.
about subsistence culture. Before her trip to Hong Kong,
Rockefeller was in Shanghai, where she was invited to
be a judge for the Kering Sustainable Innovation Award,
which recognises Chinese start-ups and technologies that
are creating a positive environmental and social impact.
15
VEGAN SHOES
MIREIA PLAYÀ
It was a pair of lettuce green sandals that inspired founder Mireia to create her own
shoe brand. Mireia’s creations are designed in Barcelona and produced in Alicante
(Spain). They prove that you don’t need to use animals to look fashionable. Simply
combine their vegan ankle boots to jeans, dresses or a miniskirt and you are ready
to go. We mean, look at these Eire Booties PETA-approved shoes range from wood,
breathable and antibacterial vegan materials to vegan suede & snake-effect faux leath-
er.
Website: mireiaplaya.com
Instagram: @mireiaplaya
16
SUSI ST UD I O
After opening the first vegan restaurant in the Philippines, founder Bianca Moran
started to design animal-friendly shoes in Los Angeles. Her mission is to inspire others
by making sustainable footwear stylish and accessible. Susi Studio uses eco-friendly
natural materials and faux leather from recycled plastic bottles. Furthermore, each
pair is fairly produced in small factories in Portugal and Hong Kong which are owned
and operated entirely by women. Yeees.
Website: susistudio.com
Instagram: @susistudio
17
THE PILLARS
OF
SUSTAINABLE
FASHION
Environmental concerns related to tainable fashion that scientific and research evidence
suggests are the most likely to deliver change of the scale
fashion: and pace needed to respond to challenges like climate
change. Earth Logic’s point of departure is that the plan-
The textiles and fashion industries are amongst the et, and its people, must be put first, before profit. It re-
leading industries that affect the environment neg- places the logic of economic growth, which is arguably
atively. One of the industries that greatly jeopardizesthe single largest factor limiting change towards sustain-
environmental sustainability is the textiles and fash- able fashion, with the logic that puts earth at its center.
ion industry, which thus also bears
great responsibilities. Globalization
Social concerns re-
has made it possible to produce
clothing at increasingly lower pric-Call it eco fash- lated to fashion:
es, prices so low, and collections
shifting so fast, that many consum- ion, if you like, One of the main social issues re-
ers consider fashion to be dispos-
able.However, fast, and thus dispos-but I think it’s lated to fashion concerns labor.
Since the Triangle shirtwaist fac-
able, fashion adds to pollution and
generates environmental hazards, just common tory fire in 1911, labor rights in
the fashion industry has been at
in production, use and disposal.
Putting the environmental per- sense. the center of this issue. The 2013
Savar building collapse at Rana
spective at the center, rather than -LIVIA FIRTH Plaza, where 1138 people died,
the logic of the industry, is thus put the spotlight once again on
an urgent concern if fashion is to become more sus- the lack of transparency, poor working conditions
tainable. The Earth Logic fashion research action and hazards in fashion production. Attention is in-
plan argues for “putting the health and survival of creasingly being placed on labour rights violations
our planet earth and consequently the future secu- in other parts of the whole fashion product lifecycle
rity and health of all species including humans, be- from textile production and processing, retail and dis-
fore industry, business and economic growth.” In tribution and modelling to the recycling of textiles.
making this argument the Earth Logic plan explicit- Whilst the majority of fashion and textiles are pro-
ly connects the global fashion system with the 2018 duced in Asia, Central America, Turkey, North Afri-
IPCC Special Report on Global Warming of 1.5 °C. ca, the Caribbean and Mexico, there is still production
Furthermore, the Earth Logic fashion research action across Europe where exploitative working conditions
plan sets out a range of possible areas for work in sus-
18
from brands and retailers in the form of low prices
and short lead times contribute to exploitative work-
Economic con-
ing conditions and low wages. Also “local” production, cerns related to fashion:
such as garments labeled as “Made in Italy” are en-
gaged in global sourcing of labor and worker exploita- At the heart of the controversy concerning “fast fash-
tion, bypassing unions and social welfare contracts. ion” lies the acknowledgement that the “problem” of
It is generally accepted that at least 25 million peo- unsustainable fashion is that cheap, accessible and on-
ple, the majority women, work in garment manu- trend clothes have become available to people of poorer
facture and up to 300 million in cotton alone. Nev- means. This means more people across the world have
ertheless, it is really difficult to estimate exactly how adopted the consumption habits that in the mid-twen-
many people work in the production sector, because tieth century were still reserved for the rich. To put it
small-scale manufacturing and contracting firms that differently, the economic concern of fashion is that poor
operate illegally continue to exist within the industry. people now have access to updating their wardrobes as
On the 24th of April 2013, Rana Plaza disaster hap- often as the rich. That is, “fast” fashion is only a prob-
pened as one of the biggest tragedies in history of lem when poor people engage in it. In alignment with
the fashion industry. The search for the dead end- this, blame is often put on poor consumers; they don’t
ed on 13 May 2013 with a death toll of 1,134. Ap- buy quality goods, buy too much and too cheap, etc.
proximately 2,500 injured people were rescued from The economic concerns of fashion also means many
the building alive. It is considered the deadliest gar- of the sustainable “solutions” to fashion, such as buy-
ment-factory disaster in history, as well as the dead- ing high-quality goods to last longer, are not acces-
liest structural failure in modern human history. sible to people with less means. From an economic
The environmental impact of fashion also affects perspective, sustainability thus remains a moralizing
communities located close to production sites. There issue of educated classes teaching the less educated
is little easily accessible information about these im- “responsible consumption,” and a debate that main-
pacts, but it is known that water and land pollution ly concerns promoting frugality and austerity to
from toxic chemicals used to produce and dye fabrics those with less means. It is seen as an opportuni-
and have serious negative consequences for the peo- ty by businesses that allow resale of luxury goods.
ple living near factories. At the global level, fashion is The distribution of value within the fashion industry is an-
contributing to climate change and threatens biodi- other economic concern, with garment workers and tex-
versity, which have social consequences for everyone. tile farmers and workers receiving low wages and prices.
19
20
Millennials Care About Sustainability,
But They're Not Shopping That Way
The publication claims that millennials aren’t able to buy the sustainable
clothing that they want because companies either don’t make the product
or don’t market it properly.
By the end of 2018, millennials will have more spending power than any
other generation so big brands should be paying attention to their values.
A number of studies show that sustainability is one of these values. BoF’s
2018 State of Fashion report claimed that 66% of millennials are willing
to pay more for sustainable products. Other research, conducted by fashion
business school LIM College, found that 90% of millennials believe they
can convince businesses and governments to become more sustainable. The
same percentage of respondents said they would boycott a brand if it wasn’t
sustainable. However, only 34% of the millennials surveyed by LIM Col-
lege said that they have actually made sustainable purchases.
21
Maxi multi-layer ve-
gan sunny dress, made
in organic cotton from
Portuguese dead stock
found in Barcelona, by
AVASAN. Cardigan Zilly,
100% Cashemere, by ED-
ELZIEGE. Hand-made hat,
stylist’s own.
22
23
How sustainable is
Stella McCartney?
One of the first things seen in Stella McCartney’s
website just before Christmas 2019 was a state-
ment about the brand’s commitment to creating
the first vegan Stan Smith’s sneakers highlight-
ing the uniqueness of this collaboration between
the queen of vegetarian luxury brands and the
king of the white sneakers.
Since 2001 when Stella opened her own brand
in a joint venture with Gucci Group (now Ker-
ing Group), she promoted a cruelty-free and
ethical philosophy and stood against the use of
leather, fur, skins and feathers in her catwalks
and collections. This statement and philosophy
followed
© Stella McCartney Resort 2020
24
Stella McCartney lution and waste across the entire global supply chain
and then translated into a monetary value, mapping the
hidden costs and benefits from each operation. These
insights drive the company’s innovation and help make
better, more sustainable decisions.
In the past few years, Stella’s name and her brand at-
tached to it were connected to almost any sustainable
fashion event, conference, innovation, and collabora-
tion in the industry. In many interviews, Stella is aiming
to lead the fashion industry to an era where she and her
team challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious
products in a way that fits for the world today and to-
morrow: magnificent and sustainable, without any com-
promises. Stella McCartney is a member of the Ethical
Trading Initiative since 2012, annually reporting them
on all activities and progress in the code of labor of the
company. The initiative based its code of labor on the
The brand adopted an honest and conscious approach International Labour Organisation (ILO). Since 2016
sharing the complexity of using faux materials that are The brand also reports annually a modern slavery state-
non-biodegradable, made from either acrylic, polyester, ment according to a British law passed in 2015. Besides
wool, and mohair. Therefore encouraging their cus- requiring regular reporting the act requires businesses
tomers to care for their items as long as possible, since to face transparency to ensure modern slavery doesn’t
luxury does not mean landfill – it means forever. exist in their operations or supply chains.
Using the Environmental profit and loss tool invented
by the Kering group Stella McCartney is measuring its All of these actions highlight the importance Stella
business impact since 2012. Every step of the business is McCartney puts also in the human capital that are part
measured, from raw materials, the making process and of her brand’s story.
selling in the stores. The tool measures greenhouse gas
emissions, water use, water pollution, land use, air pol-
25
The brand main focus is to invest
a lot in pushing towards circu-
larity, innovative materials and
cutting-edge technologies that de-
crease the brand’s environmental
impact
The Stella McCartney team are seeking and strengthening worker’s voices and advocating
supporting new technologies that will enable for vulnerable groups and human rights.
them to recycle polyester fabrics back into
fabrics, since only 1% of textiles are currently The brand took control of its supply chain in
recycled back into textiles. The team believes 2016, mapping its manufacturers and product
it’s time for the fashion industry to deal with suppliers all the way down tier 2 globally. In
its own waste. Although the brand use since order to gain insights and collect information
2012 for their bags lining fabric made from about the ethical conditions of their manufac-
recycled polyester instead of virgin one just turers and suppliers, the brand holds regular
by 2025 the brand aim to only use recycled and unannounced audits to identify potential
polyester. This is five years later than recycled risks. The team is supporting and having an
nylon simply because the technology to reach open discussion with their suppliers and being
this aim is not yet available in a sustainable involved in the suppliers’ training process. If
and circular way. some obstacles occur the suppliers are invited
to participate in improvement projects. The
In 2017, the brand partnered with Parley for improvement projects include understand-
the Oceans to raise awareness for ocean con- ing and addressing the causes of particular
servation and fight marine plastic pollution. challenges and developing a mechanism that
As part of their mission to combat marine prevents such issues from occurring again.
plastics, two new products were created made Some of these projects are done in collabora-
from Parley Ocean Plastic™: the Adidas by tion with other brands and local stakeholders
Stella McCartney Ultra BOOST X sneakers to maximize the impact.
and the ‘Ocean Legend’ Falabella GO back-
pack.
30
ability Goes Hand in Hand
31
32
Sustainable Fashion:
Interview with Connie
Nielsen during Youth
Fashion Summit 2018
https://youtu.be/d-6iV3oltls
33
Bellatrix Leather top and Velum t
brand OLISTIC THE LABEL. It aim
en, preserving tradicional knowho
sericulture in India. Top is made o
sers are made of p
34
trousers by ethical luxury
ms are empowering wom-
ow and supporting organic
of leather leftovers. Trou-
peace silk.
35
GREEN
IS
GUCCI
WANTS TO
THE GO CARBON
NEUTRAL
NEW
GLAM
An unexpected Fashion
Week trend?
CARBON NEUTRALITY
36
American designer Gabriela Hearst’s New York show promise.
was carbon neutral, and now Gucci has announced that
its upcoming Milan runway will be too. Gucci even Calculating a brand’s carbon footprint is a complicated
went a step further, announcing that it plans have a ful- and imperfect process, and figuring out how Gucci the
ly carbon-neutral supply chain by the end of September. brand can go carbon neutral is more complex than just
Gucci has been on a green mission since 2017, when it the show. According to a statement from the brand, 90
announced it would be going fur-free. Since then, the percent of Gucci’s emissions come from its supply chain
luxury brand has announced a ten-year sustainability and raw material sources. Which makes sense, because
plan and rolled out a site dedicated to it. But this is the fabrics will go through many different stages before
most ambitious step to date. going into a Gucci dress or top. Take cotton — someone
has to pick the cotton, someone has to gin the cotton,
CEO Marco Bizzarri confirmed to the New York Times someone has to spin the cotton, someone has to dye it,
that Gucci will offset the travel emissions of the guests, and then Alessandro Michele can work his magic. Guc-
models, and staff working its Milan event (1,900 peo- ci collected data from over 1,000 suppliers to make its
ple). What that means: Gucci’s show will still produce Environmental Profit and Loss statement, which then
emissions, but the brand will purchase carbon cred- informed how many carbon credits it would need to
its that cancel them out. The money from the carbon purchase to become carbon neutral.
credits will likely go to fund renewable-energy projects,
to programs that protect the rain forest, or other green
activities. Gucci isn’t the only brand to use carbon off-
sets in this manner — cult sneaker brand Allbirds went
carbon neutral for 2019 by purchasing carbon offsets,
and you can buy carbon offsets on Reformation’s web-
site. But they are the biggest name to make this kind of
37
S YDNE Y BR OWN
Sydney Brown offers luxurious vegan shoes ranging from ankle boots, balle-
rinas (we love the V-Flat Iridescent) and sneakers for conscious women and
men. To name just a few of their environmentally- and animal-friendly mate-
rials: microfiber derived from recycled plastic bottles, cork, wood, and natural
rubber latex. Sydney Brown also works with a factory near Porto, Portugal,
which is committed to sustainability, high performance, and new technology
constructions.
Website: sydney-brown.com
Instagram: @sydneybrownshoes
38
BAHATIK A
No animals, no pain. Bahatika is a PETA-approved shoe brand based in Germany. So if you
like shiny metallic sneakers, stylish mules, pretty sandals & more you are totally right here.
All shoes are ethically produced in Spain and Italy. They feature vegan eco-leather, vegan
suede, and more sustainable materials. For the inner linings, they mainly use non-allergic,
antibacterial, breathable microfiber material which is mainly 100% free from toxic sub-
stances.
Website: bahatika.com
Instagram: @bahatika_official
39
40
“
Global Change Award was initiated 2015 by H&M Foundation, a non-profit
global foundation, privately funded by the Stefan Persson family, founders and main owners of
H&M group. By catalyzing early-stage innovations that can accelerate the shift from a linear to
a circular fashion industry, the aim of the Global Change Award is to protect the planet and our
living conditions. Each year the five winning teams share a grant of €1 million and get access to a
one-year accelerator program provided by the H&M Foundation, in collaboration with Accenture
and KTH Royal Institute of Technology. Neither the H&M Foundation nor the H&M group take any
equity or intellectual property rights in the innovations. The H&M Foundation’s overall aim is to ac-
celerate the progress needed to reach the UN Sustainable Development Goals by 2030. It focuses
on four areas; Education, Water, Equality and Planet.” explains the H&M Foundation
41
“Sustainable Sting” by Green Nettle
fibers made from organic stingin
comes to farm
OPINION, SUSTA
The New Plastics Economy May
Jonah Mwangi, co-founder of Gre
ing will be invested in order to brin
With the facility and equipment a
plan to invest a majority of the crow
number of farmers engaged in com
on wastelands, and remaining in in
marke
43
LAB GROWN
JEM
JEM is the first Paris-based ethical jewelry brand. And we are
“amoureuse” with their truly outstanding Octogone collection
that reinvents the classic round shape. But check out all of their
unusual geometrical pieces which definitely attract attention
by remaining simple, contemporary and yet timeless. Ethical-
ly made from Fairmined™ Gold and beautiful GVS lab-grown
diamonds, JEM guarantees social responsibility, environmental
awareness, and transparency. Each piece is ethically handcrafted
using traditional techniques in one of the most renowned jew-
eler’s workshops located in the heart of the Vosges Mountains in
France. Thanks to a serial number on every item, you can trace
it back to its origins. Free deliveries in France and Europe. Price
range:€250 -€9.500
Website: jem-paris.com
Instagram: @jem_jewellery
44
NORRFLOKS
The sustainable and ethical jewelry brand from Sweden makes
minimalist, super simple diamond pieces we love. Whether
to a cocktail dress or to jeans and a white shirt, you can wear
their tiny rings, studs, and necklaces to anything, every day.
The 0.03-0,1 carat round brilliant cut diamonds are responsibly
produced by Europe’s largest lab-grown diamonds supplier, lo-
cated in Antwerp, Belgium. They are of the highest clarity and
D-F colorless which means that they are perfectly transparent
and sparkly. Each item comes with recycled 14k solid yellow or
white gold that is ethically handcrafted by Alfonso, a third-gen-
eration manufacturer in Spain. Online-only and free shipping
for all purchases over €100! Price range: €80 – €370
Website: norrfolks.com
Instagram: @norrfolks
N DIAMONDS
45
Taylor & Thomas: Eco-Vegan S
46
Shoe Brand From DTLA
The female-founded luxury vegan shoe line Taylor + Thomas founded by Jessica Taylor
Mead and Elizabeth Thomas James is winning over the hearts of vintage enthusiasts
and animal lovers. Made in Los Angeles and inspired by muses from the 70s, the future-
orientated brand places great importance on the health of our planet, animals, and people
without compromising high quality and design.
Sustainable Packaging
The nylon sock is made from recycled nylon, the cotton bag is made from organically-
grown cotton, even the carton is made from recycled cardboard. Each and every detail is
thoughtfully designed and produced.
T + T donates 1% of their sales to the charity 1% For The Planet each season. Together
with NativeEnergy, the company also attaches great importance to off-set their carbon
footprint.
We hope to see some more new styles in the near future. We are just wondering which
female icon from the 70s could inspire the next shoe design? What do you think, any
ideas?
Jane Shoe – Mustard, Image: Taylor + ThomasTalitha Shoe – Ivory, Image: Taylor + Thomas
Text: Mia Windisch-Graetz and Antonia Böhlke, Photos: Mochni
47
C ÉMÉLÉ PARIS
The avant-garde shoes from Cémélé (some of them are unisex!) are
designed by Coline Burckel in Paris. They use no plastic but almost
only biodegradable materials such as pure rubber milk for the soles,
metal zippers or vegan wax to make their shoes waterproof. Their
brand signature is their soH wood material which has a unique aes-
thetic and comes in different shades. All components of each pair
come from Europe and are manufactured in their workshop in Spain.
Strong designs with strong values! Soon to come: exquisite derbies!
Trendy for girls & boys!
Website: cemele.fr
48
S LOWERS
Organic, vegan and bonito: Maria and her four-legged friend Ringo
founded the vegan footwear label out of love for nature, animals, and
people. Slowers offers cork wedge sandals (we love them!), espadrilles
and many more shoes for women and men. They produce ethically
and don’t use any animal materials (PETA-approved). Instead of leath-
er, Slowers uses GOTS-certified organic cotton, linen, hemp, natural
cork, and other natural materials.
Website: slowers-shoes.com
Instagram: @slowers_shoes
49
An Ecofrie
P u ff e r s e a s o n m a y h a v e s t a r t e
t h is y e a r, b u t W o o lr ic h m a r k e d
W e d n e s d a y n ig h t w it h a n e v e n
it s n e w c o lla b o r a t io n w it h G r iffi n
d e s ig n fi r m b a s e
F o u n d e r J e ff G r iffi n w o r k e d w
ia n -o w n e d , P e n n s y lv a n ia -b o r n
c o lle c t io n t h a t w a s e q u a l p a r t s
p a r t n e re d w it h a fa b r ic m a n u fa
fo r e x a m p le , o n a z e ro -w a t e r p r
a m o u n t o f w a t e r is w a s t e d d u r in
y ie ld .) T h e y a ls o p a r t n e re d w it h
fi g h t in g m a r in e p o llu t io n , t o u s e
p la s t ic fo u n d o n S p a n is h c o a s
s c a v e n g e fo r lit t e r, w h ic h is t h e n
c e n t re c y c le d p o ly e s t e r. T h e c o
E c o R a m a r C lo t h — a fa b r ic c o
a n d re c y c le d It a lia n n y lo n . O f c
c o a t is t h e m o s t s u s t a in a b le o p t
o n e , G r iffi n a ls o p ro d u c e d a lim
c o lle c t io n m a d e fro m d e a d s
50
That Doubles a
endly Puffer
d a lit t le la t e r t h a n u s u a l
it s u n o ffi c ia l b e g in n in g o n
t c e le b r a t in g t h e la u n c h o f
n S t u d io s , a c a r b o n -n e u t r a l
d in t h e U .K .
w it h t h e 1 8 9 -y e a r -o ld It a l-
c o m p a n y t o p ro d u c e a
s t y lis h a n d e c o fr ie n d ly . H e
c t u re r fro m N o r t h e r n It a ly ,
ro d u c t io n p ro c e s s . (A la r g e
n g fa b r ic d y in g , w it h a s m a ll
h S e a q u a l, a n o r g a n iz a t io n
e fa b r ic m a d e fro m re c y c le d
t s , w h e re 1 ,5 0 0 fi s h e r m e n
n t r a n s fo r m e d in t o 1 0 0 p e r -
o lle c t io n a ls o in c o r p o r a t e s
m p o s e d o f o r g a n ic c o t t o n
o u r s e , n o t b u y in g a p u ff e r
t io n , b u t if y o u n e e d a n e w
m it e d -e d it io n “S e c o n d L ife ”
s t o c k , o r le f t o v e r fa b r ic s .
as Sleeping Bag 51
Kimono H2O by
inspired by the
H2O footprint. It i
tified and painted
GARCÍA. Extra wi
stretch
Collection & C
imal leather
materials. W
by-product o
boots, sanda
different un
only limit
Edas is a New Yo
and bags creat
ble fabrics. It is
an online sust
trend-hitting ite
It was created fr
ing on sustaina
Website:
Design your ow
shop. The only
with conflict-f
and gemstones
eco-friendly r
yellow, white &
purchase, a por
projects in Af
52
AVASAN, from the Sky Mirrors Water Collection,
e ocean with the intention of remembering our
is beautiful unbleached cotton sateen GOTS cer-
d by hand with water based silk paint by ARACELI
ide vegan black trousers in heavy organic cotton
h GOTS certified. 100% Made in Spain.
Website: https://avasan.es
Instagram: @avasan_
53
Vegan
leather
is isn't as
ethical as
you think...
54
Cruelty-free synthetics come with serious environmen- don’t live very long if they become a tanner in certain
tal costs. parts of the world.” Chemicals used in tanning include
When it comes to leather, a vegan faces two choices: formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, and some finish-
wear synthetic or wear none at all. But is synthetic es that are cyanide base. One study of the Chiampo
leather, sometimes called vegan leather, really the bet- Valley, a tanning region in northern Italy, showed that
ter option? The answer is complicated. more than 30 solvents were released into the air from
While it’s easy to understand what vegan leather is the surrounding tanning factories.
not—animal product—understanding what it is can be Ultimately then, what can give leather an environmen-
tricky. Items that qualify as vegan or faux leather can be tal edge is its sustainability. PVC and polyurethane
produced from materials as varied as cork, barkcloth, aren’t going to last nearly as long as leather and, as
glazed cotton, waxed cotton, paper, polyvinyl chloride Dent points out, when synthetic leather does begin to
(PVC), and polyurethane. wear out, it doesn’t wear out as attractively.
“There have been concerns over the last few years
about PVC because of production challenges and The holy grail of sustainability is a closed-loop system.
because they release dioxins, potentially hazardous “The carcass of an animal can decay in the ground and
chemicals, if burnt,” says Dent. nurture plants that are eaten by the next generation of
As a rigid plastic, PVC requires that plasticizers such animal.” Faux leather, on the other hand, won’t decay
as phthalates be added in order to make it flexible. and, is at best, “down recycling,” meaning it can’t be
“Certain phthalates have been banned and others are made into another item of faux leather. That would re-
under review because they can leach out,” says Dent. quire a complete molecular breakdown in order to then
All PVC-based fabrics use phthalates, which means re-manufacture it. Instead, if PVC or polyurethane
that toxicity levels just depend on the type of phthalate faux leather is recycled at all, it is usually repurposed as
used. something like a vinyl awning.
Currently, the most popular alternative to PVC for The real question we should be asking, then, isn’t
faux leather is polyurethane. The chemistry behind it whether to buy real leather or faux leather, it’s wheth-
is complicated, which causes the price point to go up, er to buy anything at all. We must consider its entire
and also creates a wider variation in quality and perfor- lifecycle. “How long will this product last, when will I
mance. From an environmental perspective, the main need to replace it, how will I use it, how long will I use
concern with polyurethane-based synthetic leather is it, and then, when I do dispose of it, what will happen
that solvents are used. The production process involves to it?” Certainly a lot more than just, real or fake?
painting polyurethane in liquid form onto a fabric
backing. Making polyurethane into a liquid requires a
solvent, and those can be highly toxic.
“The newest versions of polyurethane are using a wa-
terborne coating, and those are a lot better,” says Dent.
But is it better or worse than actual leather? Dent says,
“It depends on who you ask and it depends on how you
assess.” Obviously, for the vegan whose ethical con-
cerns favor animal life above all else, leather is out. But
for those who don’t put animal ethics at the top of the
list, there are other factors at play. The biggest is that, as
Gwendolyn Hustvedt, an associate professor in Fashion
Merchandising at Texas State University points out,
“most cows don’t die to become a purse.” The bulk of
hides used in leather production come from cattle that
are raised for beef and milk, so not using their hides
could be deemed wasteful. This by no means alleviates
concern over animal cruelty or other environmental
concerns like deforestation, it’s just that, for those who
do eat meat, this gives leather, environmentally speak-
ing, an advantage.
It’s an advantage, however, that can be easily rendered
moot by the tanning process. “The tanning process for
leather has traditionally been awful,” says Dent. “People
55
GOOD SOCIE T Y
High Rise Flared Jeans by GOOD SOCIETY, they are made in Italy from a denim fabric
with finest organic cotton yarns. Using the newest eco-friendly technologies saves about
half of the water consumption.
56
EDELZ I E G E& MA R I TA M O R EN O
57
WHAT FASHION BEHOLDS
58
FOR YOU ZODIAC SIGN?
59
ARIES
The fire sign that you are, you do everything with confi-
dence, passion, and bluntness, Aries. You don’t exactly beat
around the bush. In general, Aries like a streamlined, street-
styled look that can transition from day to night with a few
accessory changes. Understated, tonal, but always on trend,
you’ve been in your professional, focused mindset, but now,
it’s time to have some fun! Pattern mixing is the perfect
way to fall back in love with your wardrobe without buying
anything. A mix-and-match dress is the perfect look to take
you all the way through the day into night. The bold mix of
patterns is a perfect way to fuel your individualistic nature
while still feeling comfortable. Stray away from your tonal
outfits, and see how you can bring your prints alive.
Aries are innovators!
Getting in the car, they’re revolutionizing underwear as
outwear sweetie. The concept of the naked dress is already
daring, flashy, and innovative, but to add feathers? That’s
Aries level drama.
TAU R A S
60
GEMINI
Oh, Geminis, you love to take risks, turn heads, and be on-
trend. Your signature style does not exist, because you love
jumping from one to another without any loyalty. And while
that is totally valid, why don’t you try mixing them together
this season? Who says you can’t wear a maxi skirt and camo
in the same outfit? That is why your fashion risk for the new
year is leather shorts.
As the twin sign, duality should be where you thrive. Chan-
nel that into your fashion with leather shorts. They may not
sound as risky as you think, but the sheer amount of things
they pair with will leave you reeling, Gemini. From blazers
to bra tops, ruffled shirts, and more, your challenge is to
mix feminine and masculine, professional and rebellious,
hard and soft.
Punk couture donned in sleek silvery pajamas and a polka
dot suit. So wacky! So fun! So fresh! Classic Gemini sense of
humor!
CANCER
61
LEO
VIRGO
Well kept, meticulous, and vintage, you are a perfectionist,
almost to a fault, with extremely high expectations. You love
feeling prepared and practical. Athleisure and normcore
are where you are most at home, which is all well and good,
but the ease you had is about to dissipate. This Aquarius
season will offset your more emotional qualities, leaving
you feeling a little shaky. Try to lean into it with a tiny purse.
62
LIBRA
The wild child of the zodiac, you love everything with an
edge. In general, Libras stay on the darker side of the color
wheel, channeling grays and blacks into their wardrobe.
Because you are chic, classic, and playful, but never over
the top, dare yourself this new year with feathers. Whether
a simple feathered detail on sleeves or a tube-top covered
in them, the bright colors and bold texture are a great way
to move past your stubborn, structured ways and make you
feel light all over.
The soft tanks are the perfect addition to your closet. They
will invigorate your summer wardrobe and add some
much-needed color. The feathers provide texture in a way
your streamlined palette is thirsty for. Step away from hard-
er aspects of your fashion sense and fly.
When it comes to fashion, you are the ultimate Material Girl.
Adorned with brightly colored parrots, gorgeous flowers,
and an array of colors, that’s a dress libras look for. Libra is
the sign most concerned with beauty.
SCORPIO
Scorpios are the chess masters of all the signs; you calcu-
late your risks constantly and play things close to the chest.
As the token sexy, mysterious star, you tend to prefer struc-
tured and edgy looks. But all work and no play is no way to
live, so take a risk on wearing tulle skirts.
63
S AG I T TA R I U S
CAPRICORN
Puffy sleeves will fit right into your established style but
add a new dimension to your classic looks in the process.
They go with everything, so you don’t have to worry about
what to pair it with, yet the new volume will invigorate your
outfits.
64
AQUARIUS
PISCES
As a gentler member of the zodiac, Pisces are more drawn
to soft, flowing garments that lend themselves to a subtle
sensuousness. You love a bohemian look. You are probably
feeling dreamy, sure of yourself, and positive. A great way
to bring an extra layer of fantasy into your wardrobe is:
patterned shoes.
Pisces, you love your one pair of shoes so much. A simple
two-colored pattern like the cow print shoes can bring new
excitement to outfits you never thought of. You can mix and
match your patterns or just play with colors, but patterned
heels are the perfect way to spice up your closet in the new
year.
Pisces is easily the most spiritual of the signs. Most con-
nected to their dreams? Most likely to own a tarot deck?
Most likely to join a cult?
AND, among the most imaginative! Their creativity drives
them!
Pisces is renowned for their imagination, creativity, and
otherworldliness. Their visuals tend to be innovative and
unique, rather than simply appealing and classically beau-
tiful.
65
Developed by the Sustainable Apparel Trying to do so alone has led more than
Coalition, the Higg Index is a suite of a few companies to analysis paralysis.
tools that enables brands, retailers, and The Higg Index helps you take the
facilities of all sizes — at every stage in analysis one step at a time to figure out
their sustainability journey — to accu- what matters and how to measure it.
rately measure and score a company or
product’s sustainability performance. Higg Index protects you from unseen
gaps. Don’t get blindsided by the so-
The Higg Index delivers a holistic cial and environmental risks in your
overview that empowers business- supply chain. The Higg Index not
es to make meaningful improve- only helps you identify those risks, it
ments that protect the well-being can help you proactively turn them
of factory workers, local com- into opportunities for innovation.
munities, and the environment. Higg Index is a one-stop shop. With
It enables and encour- this single, comprehen-
ages brands, retailers, sive tool for measuring
and manufacturers and communicating
to become transpar- your environmental and
ent by communicat- social performance, you
ing clear, compara- can say goodbye to DIY
ble, and meaningful approaches and con-
sustainability scores flicting software tools.
publicly. Using one common lan- Higg Index puts you out front.
guage to share sustainability efforts Whether you’re a brand, supplier or
will allow consumers to make bet- retailer, the entire industry is con-
ter informed purchasing decisions. verging around a common approach
Higg Index transparency will ensure for quantifying and improving envi-
accountability and enable the apparel ronmental and social performance.
industry to thrive responsibly. To sup-
port members as they become more Wouldn’t you rather be a leader than
transparent, the SAC will provide com- a follower? Don’t get left behind.
munication toolkits that offer guide- Higg Index has legs. Data collected
lines and support for transparency. from the Higg Index will allow our in-
dustry to take the next step of creating
Higg Index simplifies sustainability. consumer-facing product labels with
Global supply chains are complex, and scores that communicate and certify
figuring out where to focus your efforts sustainability under a single standard.
can be overwhelming and expensive.
66
67
68
Waste isn’tawasteuntil
we waste it.
- WILL.I.AM
69
There is no beauty in finest cloth if it
makes hunger and unhappiness.
- Matahma Gandhi
70