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Home Sound System Design
Home Sound System Design
guide
How to choose the right ones for your rooms
Built-in speakers save space on your floors and shelves. The wiring is hidden behind the walls. And paintable
grilles make flush-mounted speakers nearly invisible.
One or two ceiling speakers may provide good background music for
your dining room. But say you have a large living room with a high-
ceiling. You might need five or six speakers to get the volume you need
when you throw a party.
The other factor to consider is speaker placement. You want your music
system to deliver even coverage throughout your room. This takes
careful planning to get the best results.
Your A/V Designer will map out the ideal locations for your rooms.
Residential audio gear isn't well suited for stores, restaurants and other
commercial buildings. We have a separate team of designers to help you
put together a system for your business. Get started by filling out
a commercial system design request form.
Let your budget be guided by the listening experience that you want in
each room. Modestly-priced speakers are fine for background listening.
But if you're passionate about music, you want a system that you can
really jam to. Go for higher-quality speakers that deliver the live concert
experience. Tell your designer about your performance goals for each
room. He or she will help you choose the right equipment.
Choose a speaker with an aimable tweeter to direct the sound exactly where you want it.
Sometimes you want music overhead but just have room for one
speaker. Stereo input speakers play both the left and right channels of
music in a single location. They are a great way to add music to small
spaces. Or you may want several of these in a room that's not well
suited for stereo pairs.
Stereo input speakers have two tweeters and play both the left and right channels of music.
Self-enclosed speakers
Every speaker brand has subtle tonal qualities that are unique to them.
This makes for a distinct audio "voicing". If you were painting a room
blue you'd use the same shade for all four walls. You wouldn't paint one
wall a different shade of blue than the others. You want them to match.
Speaker voice-matching works along the same lines. You want to use
the same brand of speakers throughout your room. This gives you
consistently great sound as action moves all around you.
Most in-wall speakers can be used for your left and right channels. They
install vertically on either side of your TV.
The center channel is perhaps the most important speaker in your home
theater. It's responsible for the movie's dialogue. It installs horizontally,
typically below your TV or projector screen. Use a center channel that
has a tweeter in the middle of the speaker. This balanced design
provides even dialogue for all of your seating locations.
Choose a center channel speaker that has a tweeter between two woofers. This lets everyone hear dialogue
clearly.
Adding speakers beside and behind you makes you feel like you're a part
of the movie. Consider using surrounds that feature tweeters that fire in
different directions. This design delivers lifelike sound in a wide area.
Everyone gets wraparound effects - especially if you have multiple rows
of seating.
In-wall surround speakers use tweeters that face different directions to provide immersive surround effects
No home theater is complete without a subwoofer for the low end. For a
completely invisible system, install a sub into your wall or floor. These
sneaky-good subs get their power from an external amplifier.
Install a subwoofer into your wall for impactful bass without taking up space. A separate power amp
provides power.
Dolby Atmos
Want an immersive home theater with sound coming from all directions?
Create a Dolby Atmos system by installing speakers into your ceiling
and connecting them to a surround sound receiver with Dolby Atmos
decoding. You'll feel the rain gently failing through the trees in the
jungle. You might even duck when the helicopter swoops down from the
sky.
You don't need special ceiling speakers to make Atmos work. But you do need a Dolby Atmos-capable
receiver.
Installation accessories
It's important that you use speaker wire that's approved for in-wall runs.
You want UL-rated wire that's labeled CL2 or CL3. Check out our
ceiling and wall wiring guide for more info.
Your ceiling speakers may have another room located above them.
Use speakers with back boxes to limit the sound that leaks through.
Back boxes also improve bass response by providing an enclosure
around the speaker.
For a simple way to control your music's volume in each room, install
an in-wall volume control.
Related articles
For info on how to drive speakers throughout your house, check out
our multi-room power guide. Self-installing? Check out our in-ceiling and
in-wall installation guide.
How to hide the wires for your speakers
and TVs
In-wall wiring guide for home A/V
This guide will help you save money by doing your own small-scale in-
wall wiring projects in both finished and unfinished rooms. If you decide
to hire a professional, the knowledge you gain will help you work
through the process with your contractor.
Is it legal?
Before you start drilling holes in studs or cutting holes in your walls,
consider today’s wireless music solutions. There are a variety of
wireless speakers, as well as some receiver/transmitter combos that
work with regular amps and speakers. A lot of people ask us
about wireless surround sound systems. For years there was no good
answer. Now there are several.
Before you begin, you’ll need a plan. Do yourself a favor and submit a
system design request to Crutchfield’s A/V Design team. You can upload
a floor plan and pictures of your room and then chat with a designer
about your goals. You’ll receive a system plan and a link to a shopping
cart filled with all the items you need to complete your project.
After planning where you're going to route your wire, you’ll need to
figure out how much you'll need. Ask your system designer for help with
this. He or she can provide you with a wiring "map" — a plot that shows
what you're installing in each room, including all of the speakers,
cables, brackets, and other items you'll be installing.
Your designer can look at your floor plan and give you a solid
recommendation of how much wire to buy. If you’re mapping out your
own plan, think through where each wire will have to go. Pace off or
measure each pathway. Tips:
1. Allow extra wire for the connections. For example, if you intend to
install ceiling speakers by yourself, allow 2-3 feet of extra wire so
you can set the speakers on your ladder while you hook them up.
2. Allow 10 to 15 percent extra: Your planned wire route might be
thrown off by an unexpected obstacle. To be safe, buy at least 10
percent more wire than you think you need.
Audio/video cables
Most audio and video patch cables are not suitable for in-wall
installation. Some HDMI cables that are rated for in-wall use don’t
support 4K or HDR video.
Fortunately there are some clever solutions, such as baluns, that use
in-wall-rated network cable, coax cable (RG-6), or even fiber optic
cable to pass audio and video signals over long distances.
Celerity fiber optic HDMI cables keep the signal strong over long runs, and they’re immune to interference.
Your system designer can also help you determine how many and what
kind of wall-mounted receptacles and in-wall volume controls you’ll
need. You’ll also need mounting brackets to support the receptacles and
volume controls. Your designer can add all of these parts to your system
plan and a pre-filled shopping cart.
This receptacle accommodates the speaker and subwoofer connections for a surround sound system.
This universal wall plate gives you an entry or exit point for any kind of in-wall wire.
These plates are part of a kit that hides both signal and power connections for a wall-mounted TV.
Outlet boxes
The hardware used to mount volume controls, wire outlets, and other in-
wall devices are called junction boxes or "J-boxes." Look for a J-box
that's deep enough to fit your in-wall devices (usually 2-3/4").
Backless brackets provide the minimum support you'll need to attach a wall plate. The one at left is for a
finished wall. It clamps itself to the hole you cut for it. The one at right gets nailed to a stud before your
drywall goes up.
For a wall-mounted volume control, you need the structural strength and
protection afforded by a standard junction box (available at home
improvement stores). When you're simply terminating wires at a wall
plate, backless brackets will do.
A standard junction box protects your in-wall volume controls.
Mount your outlets at the same height as AC outlets for a clean, uniform
look. In-wall controls look best if you match the height of your light
switches (usually located 44-48" off the floor). Don't attach low-voltage
boxes to light switch boxes.
Nail plates
Whenever you drill a hole 1-1/4" or less from the surface of any wooden
part of your house (a stud, joist, plate, block, or brace), or notch any
wooden part, you must protect the cable with a nail plate. The nail
plate prevents a nail from ever piercing the cable.
Nail plates protect your wires from nails, screws, and drill bits.
Wire labels
Label both ends of the wire before you start pulling, or before cutting
another wire. You can use Crutchfield CableLabels™, or simply use
masking tape and a marker.
Crutchfield’s self-adhesive, color-coded labels keep your audio, video, and speaker cables clearly marked.
Wire must be supported every 4-1/2 feet and within 1 foot of a junction
box. Use wire ties and wire-tie clamps. The staples electricians use for
regular AC wiring may damage low-voltage cables if they're nailed down
too tightly.
For bundling cables at the back of a component, a reusable wire wrap comes in handy.
Component racks
If you’re going to hide your speakers in your ceilings or walls, why not
hide the components, too? We offer a variety of equipment racks
designed for installation in a utility room or closet.
This tool strips 12- to 22-gauge wire with one pull of the trigger. You can adjust it to strip off the exact
amount of insulation you want.
Wire cutter/strippers
Studfinder
A fish tape is a tool that helps you pull cable behind finished walls,
floors, and ceilings. Think of it as a fishing reel spooled with semi-rigid
“tape.” The idea is to push or “fish” the tape from one end of the wire
pathway through to the other end. Then you attach the wire to the hook
at the end of the tape and pull it back through.
Miscellaneous tools
An unfinished room that has been prewired for home theater and is ready for drywall installation.
New construction
Be careful not to bite off more work than you can chew. Most do-it-
yourselfers don’t have the tools, skills, or time to wire an entire new
home as it’s being built. But say you have an unfinished room you’re
converting into a home theater. That’s a project you can have fun with.
Here are some guidelines:
Never use the same holes for both AC wire and low-voltage wire. Try to
avoid installing your wires beside AC power lines for more than 5 feet.
As much as possible, keep them 1 foot away from the power lines
throughout their runs.
You can safely run audio and video in the same bundle as security,
phone, data, and other low-voltage wire.
Running low-voltage cables (black) with AC power cable (orange) may result in poor performance or wire
damage.
If cables and power cable run parallel, keep them a minimum of 12" apart. If they intersect, keep them at 90-
degree angles.
Drill your holes in the center of each stud. The diameter of the holes
shouldn’t exceed 40% of the stud’s width. A standard 2" x 4" stud is
actually about 3.5" wide, which means your holes can’t be more than 1-
3/8" in diameter.
Keep all holes centered vertically in the joist. Don't drill within 2" of the
top or bottom of the joist. The extreme ends and the middle third of the
span of the joist carry the load, so avoid making holes there if possible.
You are limited to a hole that is a third of the measured depth of the
joist. A 2" x 6" joist actually measures 5-1/2" deep, so you can drill a 1-
3/4" hole. You can drill multiple holes rather than one very large hole
when many wires need to go one way.
You cannot make any holes in laminated support beams (glue lams) or
headers (the supports over doors, windows, or arches).
Dress at least 2 feet of speaker wire in a loop at each J-box or P-ring location, securing it with wire ties.
Dressing wires
Once a wire or bundle of wires has been pulled to its outlet location, you
must dress it. That means properly preparing it for the final step (making
the connections), which won’t happen until you’re almost ready to move
in. You’ll neatly coil the excess wire and temporarily secure it to the
junction box.
Be careful when using plastic wire ties — they should be snug, but not tight enough to pinch the cable.
By inspecting from your crawlspace or attic, you can identify which wall
locations do not carry water pipes and electrical wires. A high-quality
studfinder will help you distinguish between different types of obstacles
behind your walls, including studs, AC cables, and pipes.
Of course, you can't know what's behind the wall with absolute
certainty. You must be prepared to cut and patch exploratory holes.
To minimize that work, use a studfinder that can locate wood, metal,
and live AC wiring. You can also drill small "pilot holes" to explore
behind your walls. Use a sturdy piece of wire, like a bent coat hanger, to
find nearby obstacles.
Be sure to shut off power in the area where you'll be drilling your pilot
hole, and use caution so you don't plunge your bit into a pipe or
electrical conduit. Make sure you know where your main water shut-off
valve is located, just in case you do puncture a water pipe.
Use a sturdy wire (such as a bent coat hanger) to explore your pilot holes.
Cutting drywall
After you've confirmed that all of your component locations will work,
traced the templates, and made any other preparations recommended in
the owner's manual for your speakers or brackets, you can begin cutting
drywall.
For more information on choosing and confirming locations for your in-
wall gear, see our in-wall speaker installation guide.
If your house has plaster and lath walls or ceilings, installing your own
in-wall wiring will be more complicated. Plaster tends to crack and
crumble easily, so you should be prepared to do some touch-up work.
We recommend running out-of-wall wire, and using carpets, cabinetry,
etc. to hide it. See our article on home A/V cable management for more
ideas.
To route wire through a hidden obstruction: (A) Cut a rectangular piece of drywall around the obstacle. (B)
Notch the block or drill a hole for the cables. Use your fish tape to route the wire through the hole.
In the example shown here, you cut two holes in the wall – one for a wall
plate and another for an in-wall speaker. Next, drill two holes in your
wall’s bottom plate, which is accessible from the unfinished basement
ceiling. One hole goes below the wall plate and the other goes below the
in-wall speaker.
How do you know where to drill the bottom plate holes? You can either
measure the distance to the wall plate and speaker from an adjoining
wall, referencing a copy of your blueprints, or measure the distance
from a visible landmark that runs straight through the wall to the floor
below, such as a plumbing pipe.
Once the holes are done you can fish the wire from the wall plate hole
through to the basement, then up through the other hole to the speaker
location.
Pry off the baseboard with a small crowbar. Remove a thin strip of the
drywall to expose the studs. Cut a wire channel by scoring and chiseling
the studs. Fish your tape from one hole to the other and pull the wire
through. Tuck the wire into the channel and install nail plates at each
stud. Re-install the baseboard.
Pry the molding away from the doorway using a chisel, small crowbar, or
putty knife. Run the wire between the frame and the jamb. Chisel out
channels for the wire in the frame, if necessary. Reattach the molding.
In order to pull wire from one location to another, you'll need to attach
the wire to the fish tape, as shown here:
(A) Strip the jacket off the cable. Bend the conductors over the fish hook. (B) Wrap the hook and the cable
with electrical tape.
Insulation is most commonly found on exterior walls, but you might run
into it when fishing wire through interior walls too. The key here is not
to fish the wire through the insulation, but around it.
Many types of insulation will have a paper or plastic covering. Try to fish
your wire between that covering and the drywall. Alternatively, fish the
wire along a stud, using the stud as your guide. In this case, if you have
fish tape that's wound on a spool, keep the tape curved in towards the
surface of the stud, so that it's less likely to stray into the insulation.
You can also check your local hardware store for different kinds of fish
tape designed to be more effective with difficult runs like these.
If you cut any holes that didn’t work out, you’ll need to patch them.
Watch this video to see how it’s done.
Wired multi-room audio systems can range from simple two-room, one-
receiver setups to more advanced multi-zone systems. We'll start with
the basics and work up to the more complex scenarios.
A stereo receiver with A and B speaker outputs lets you play the same audio source in two rooms. The
volume control shown in Zone 2 is optional.
Let's say you have a nine-channel receiver with 11 speaker outputs. You
can hook up a full nine-channel surround sound system, plus stereo
speakers in another room.
When you are listening to music in Zone 2, two of the rear channels drop
from your surround mix. This leaves you with you 7 channels of surround
sound in Zone 1. When you turn off the Zone 2 music, your surround
sound reverts to 9 channels.
The easiest way to get audio in three rooms with one receiver is to find
a 9- or 11-channel receiver with powered speaker outputs for Zone
2 and Zone 3. These models often support 3-zone/3-source audio, so
you can listen to something different in all three zones.
With a receiver like the Marantz SR7008, you can power speakers in three different rooms and play different
music in each zone. With the remote control app, you can select the music source and control the volume for
each zone.
Some receivers offer powered speaker outputs for Zone 2 and preamp or line-level outputs for Zone 3.
Your designer can pick out the right multi-channel amplifier for your
needs. They'll also show you how to configure it so you end up with an
easy-to-use system that does what you want it to.
To give you an idea of what's involved, we'll look at a fairly typical three-
zone, five-room system.
One multichannel amplifier can distribute audio throughout your home.
Zone 1
Let's say you have an open floor plan, without walls separating the
kitchen, dining room, and great room.
Channels 1 and 2 are for the left and right speakers in the great
room.
Channels 3 and 4 go to a stereo-input speaker in the kitchen.
Channels 5 and 6 go to the left and right speakers in the dining
room.
The music player for Zone 1 connects to the amplifier's "bus" input (sometimes called a "global" input). The
input switch for each pair of channels is set to "bus" so your Zone 1 music player plays through all five
speakers.
Zone 2
The music player for Zone 2 connects to the "local" line input for channels 7 and 8. The input switch is set to
"line in".
Zone 2 is simple, with just one pair of speakers in the basement den.
We'll use two amp channels to power the left and right speakers.
Zone 3
For the Zone 3 music player, we'll connect the left output to the left (mono) input for channels 9 and 10 on
the amplifier. The right output goes to the amp's left (mono) input for channels 11 and 12.
Are you in the process of building your dream system? This article
highlights the best custom-install speakers we carry, along with tips
on how to build a high-end home theater without any footprint.
Look for speakers with built-in tone controls that let you adjust woofer
and tweeter output levels independently. That way you can boost or cut
lows and highs to best match your room's acoustics.
Speakers that have integrated tone controls let you tailor the sound for your room.
Some audio enthusiasts prefer using the same speaker in each location
of their home theater. This creates a unified front soundstage, with
tonal consistency throughout the room.
LCR (left, center, right) in-wall speakers can be installed horizontally
as a center channel, or vertically as left and right front speakers for
seamless sound.
Using an LCR as a center channel gives you evenly distributed high frequencies, since the tweeter is located
in the middle of the speaker. If you simply turned a "regular" in-wall speaker sideways, the tweeter would be
off to one side.
I recommend staying with the same brand for all of your speakers. This
ensures tonal consistency ("voice matching") throughout the room. One
exception is the subwoofer. Some brands don't offer an in-wall sub, so
you'll have to choose a different brand or buy an out-of-the-wall sub.
Excellent overhead performance
PSB has a unique solution if you want an all in-ceiling home theater.
The C-LCR's drivers are angled, which directs sound toward you. Use
one for each of your three front channels to pull you into the action
unfolding on the screen.
PSB's uniquely designed C-LCR in-ceiling speaker uses angled drivers to bring sound down and toward you.
It's ideal for the front channels of an in-ceiling home theater system.
Subwoofer IWS-10
It’s easy to play one song in the family room and another in
your bedroom. Or play the same music throughout the
house.
Ready to plan the perfect system for your home? Read the
full story
B
uilding a new house (or thoroughly renovating an old one)? You have the
perfect opportunity to conceal speakers and wires in your walls and
ceilings. It can be done in an existing home, but it’s not easy work for a
do-it-yourselfer. For details, see our in-wall wiring guide.
Wireless systems are the easiest solution. We'll explore those first.
Wireless systems
Today’s wireless systems are popular for good reasons.
Your system might also include several other Sonos components that
are located elsewhere. For instance, you might have a PLAYBAR and
a Sonos SUB for TV sound and music in the family room. You could
put PLAY:5 powered speakers in bedrooms and any other spaces in
which the hardware fits nicely.
Wired systems
Wireless systems are terrific, but some people find a wired system with
in-wall controls easier to live with.
70-volt systems
One amp can drive many speakers without using a complex wiring
scheme.
It’s easy to set different volume levels in different listening areas.
You use lighter, less expensive speaker wire and much less wire
overall.
Easy system expansion — just add more speakers to an existing
chain.
For help a commercial installation, contact a system designer at
1.800.315.2758. To learn more about commercial audio, read our guide
to 70-volt systems.
What type of system is best for you?
Below we’ll explore the pros and cons of two types of wired systems.
First, we’ll look at setups that use the multi-zone outputs of a home
theater receiver. Then we’ll discuss separate music-only systems.
Audio for two rooms, using the receiver's "B" speaker outputs.
Most modern receivers have speaker outputs for a second room. Many
connect to a home network for access to Internet music sources. These
features make a receiver-based system a great option in some
situations.
Planning a system that will serve more than one or two additional
zones? You can connect several pairs of speakers to a receiver’s “B”
speaker outputs (or to a separate two-channel amp connected to a
receiver’s preamp outputs). You’ll need a speaker selector or
impedance-matching volume controls. Be careful, though. Some
speaker selectors are meant to be used only with an amp capable of
driving a low-impedance speaker load.
Music-only systems
You might be better off keeping the home theater receiver out of the
equation. A multi-channel amp (with its own music sources) is safer,
easier to operate, and capable of bigger, better sound. To learn more,
read our article on how to power a multi-room audio system.
With some systems, you may be able to play the files stored on your
smartphone or tablet. If you want to do this in a receiver-based system,
make sure the receiver can play your phone or tablet music in the
second zone. Many receivers play only analog sources through the
second zone outputs.
Next steps
Feeling overwhelmed by too many choices? Here's how to sort it all out:
Jot down some notes about which rooms you want music in. What
kind of sound and what kind of speakers you want in each one.
Think about whether you want to simultaneously play different
music in different rooms.
Consider whether you want to use a wireless device such as a
smartphone or tablet as your system controller.
Continue your research by reading more Crutchfield articles about
multi-room audio.
10 Best In-Ceiling Speakers of 2019
By
Music Critic Staff
-
Last Updated: March 10, 2019
In this article, we're going to comb through the 10 best in-ceiling speakers of 2018, because in recent
years they have gone from unobtainable accessories encountered on MTV Cribs to a tangible reality.
For the majority of us, ceiling speakers probably aren't something we've really given a lot of thought to
unless are job descriptions have necessitated designing a PA system for business premises or installing a
home theater set-up in your bat-cave
Table of Contents [show]
With audio and electronic technology developing in leaps and bounds and the steady reduction in
fabrication overheads, installing ceiling speakers in your home or work-space has become a viable way to
get awesome indoor audio without sacrificing the floor-space for a free standing model.
So whether you have a constricted floor space or just simply want to rid yourself of messy wires, or bulky
bookshelf speakers that spoil your decor modern in-ceiling speakers make for a fantastic addition to your
sound-system set up.
Swivel mounted.
Competitively priced.
Low-profile.
Water and rust-resistant.
The 1” titanium compression driver can pivot 100 degrees, its high-performance sound is pushed through
one of Klipschs innovative symmetrical patented TrackTrix horns helping to direct the sound in a much
more accurate manner than other tweeters. This upgraded model also sees the addition of Klipschs
popular tried and tested Linear Travel Suspension to the tweeter to further enhance the high-end
frequency response.
They are reasonably priced and fairly simple to ceiling mount, however, the installation kit is sold
separately.
Pros:
+ Fully adjustable positioning.
+ TrackTrix horn.
+ Reasonably priced.
+ Wide dispersion.
Why We Liked It - They have fantastic treble and mid-bass attenuation and can literally be placed
anywhere in your ceiling with the aim of the audio adjusted to suit your set-up.
2. Polk Audio RC80i
VIEW PRICE
For a terrific 2-way class option that gives Klipsch a run for their money, is this set of two from the highly
popular folks at Polk Audio.
Each speaker utilizes an 8” dynamic balance, mineral-filled, polymer-composite cone, with a high-grade
rubber surround. The mid-bass driver is coupled with a 1” metallic, soft-dome tweeter with a 15-degree
swivel mount, together they serve up super-wide sound that is well balanced, no matter where you are
listening from (even off-axis.)
The moving parts are kept in alignment by its strong basket design, it also features rotating cams to secure
the speaker in place when suspended from your ceiling. The cams also aid in a swift and simple install, and
once fitted they virtually disappear due to their extremely low-profile build. They are of a hardy
construction and all parts are made from water-resistant materials and rust-resistant hardware, this
renders them great ceiling speakers for saunas, outdoor eves, pagodas, etc. making them a very versatile
choice.
Pros:
+ Swivel mounted.
+ Competitively priced.
+ Low-profile.
+ Water and rust-resistant.
Why We Liked It - When it comes to affordable audio speakers Polk are producing some of the highest
rating best-sellers on the market, somehow they manage to manufacture quality models that rival the best
in their class, but with a much more forgiving price-tag.
3. Micca M-8C
VIEW PRICE
Next up a very low priced options, which lets face is the only prudent option for some of us especially
given the fact that we will likely want 2, 4, or even 6 or more in ceiling speakers depending on the size of
the room we want to be amplified.
The M-8C is a great 2-way class in-ceiling option it has a dedicated woofer/tweeter combination in its
driver array which gives it a wide frequency response and great flexibility in configuring the audio whether
its subtle soundscapes or high impact booming bass you are after.
The woofer measures 8 inches in diameter and features a high excursion design allowing for maximized
dispersion. The tweeter is around an inch and has a soft but rigid and durable dome to handle those high
frequencies like a boss.
They effortlessly install with and can be painted to further blend in with their environments.
Pros:
+ Ideal driver combination.
+ Great extended low end.
+ Cheap.
+ Easy installation.
Why We Liked It - They are well-built from carefully selected components, and feature a foolproof design
concept. The entire range is pretty impressive. They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and styles and the
price is great value for money.
VIEW PRICE
If you find yourself shopping with a large speaker count in mind, you may not be interested in singular
speaker models or the 2-packs we have already reviewed, so for something that is a bit more of a bulk buy
option take a look at this fantastic 5-piece set from Goldwoods Acoustic Audio range.
They have an affordable price tag around the same as some of our top contenders' 2-way models but
these bargain beauties serve up a 3-way class system setup. Each of the speakers consists of one 8”
woofer, one midrange driver and one tweeter with 3-way passive crossover circuitry.
The woofers are seated in high-grade butyl surrounds for dampening, the cone is formed from highly rigid
polypropylene and benefits from forward-thinking spiders. The Midrange driver cones are Poly-Mica and
the 13 tweeters has a soft dome design to cope with the demands of higher frequency registers.
They handle beautifully and produce well-balanced audio. They are simple to mount in your ceiling and
have some pretty meaty power handling capabilities (20-350 watts per speaker).
Pros:
+ 5 x 3-way classification speakers.
+ Premium design ideas incorporated.
+ Bargain value.
Why We Liked It - They are a fantastic bulk pack, they offer premium sound in a small package, they are a
sensible center channel audio solution that won't set you back too much.
VIEW PRICE
These are essentially just a step down in size than RC80i. The dynamic balance woofer on this one is
smaller at 6.5”, but employs a wide dispersion design that can fill bigger spaces. They share the same core
electrical components and design features but let us just summarize them in-case you need a reminder.
The cones are polymer composites, they are mineral filled and feature top-notch rubber surrounds to
dampen any unwanted resonance. The dedicated tweeter is a traditional soft dome and is swivel mounted
to facilitate adjustable positioning.
They are very simple to install with its handy rotational cams and of course like the larger speakers
reviewed they are ideal for internal or external mounting as they are all of the components are made
utilizing state of the art durable, moisture-resistant materials.
Pros:
+ Swivel mounted tweeter.
+ Wide dispersion.
+ Water resistant.
+ Affordable price
Why We Liked It - They serve up surprisingly loud sound and their smaller size means they ring up as a
penny saving alternative to the first premium packed pair.
6. Yamaha NSIC800WH
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Now for a quick look at a formidable entry from Yamaha. They are a pair of premium level 2-way class
coaxial speakers. They produce amazing audio that is well rounded with a seamless crossover and make for
one of the best in-ceiling speaker on the current market.
The dual setup utilizes an 8-inch blue polypropylene mica cone woofer paired with a tiny fluid-cooled soft
dome tweeter. The cooling makes the tweeter far more efficient and adds to the longevity protecting it
from overheating, extending the high-frequency response into ultra high reals, and ultimately providing the
crisp tops tasked of it. The tweeter is swivel mounted for aimed dispersion. They have a fantastic
crossover, a versatile frequency response, high-quality components, and low impedance
They mount effortlessly very flush to the ceiling and feature large mounting clamps so you can be sure
they are secure. The grilles have baffles which are set in a spiral shape naturally aiding the audio dispersion
one step further, the grilles are magnetic, so can snap on and off to be painted and repainted in a jiff.
Pros:
+ Well designed grilles.
+ Expert circuitry.
+ Affordable pair.
+ Easily mounted.
Why We Liked It - They are very precisely built and have many measures in place to help achieve best
sound quality possible from a direct mount (these can be placed in walls or ceilings).
7. Acoustic Audio R191
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If you thought the low price of the 5 3-way speaker set was unbeatable value for money, you might want
to think again as we take a gander at the budget end of Goldwoods Acoustic Audio R series.
For almost half the price of the 3-ways, you can get your hands on 5 cheap and cheerful 2-way class
speakers. They are also arguably smaller harboring a 5.25” woofer, coupled with a 12mm soft dome
tweeter.
They still feature some of the impressive hardware and technology of the rest of the series, like the
extended throw assembly butyl, surrounds for increased performance and durability. They also have the
same low profile when mounted and are of course water resistant like their brothers in arms. The
mounting couldn't be easier with handy cut-out template provided and the integrated locking mounting
features incorporated into its design.
Pros :
+ Wide dispersion.
+ Low profile.
+ Simple mounting system.
+ Low budget option.
Why We Liked It - The value for money that this set of 5 offers up is pretty astonishing to say the least.
The Cones are of a top notch composite that we see more typically featured in products twice the price of
this one per pair.
8. Yamaha NS-IW280CWH
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After a nose at Yamahas top 2-way class in ceiling pair, we decided to up the ante and examine exactly
what's on offer in their 3-way class models.
This set is 100 watts maximum input (the 2-way option we reviewed was 140 watt) and have more
compact 6.25 dual woofers.
Each is incredibly well built, and their cones are once again composed of high quality, polypropylene and
mica blend and produce pristine balanced audio with the aid of Yamahas SoundMax technology.
The mids and lows are kept clear with the superb dampening surrounds. The highs are left to the tiny
dome tweeter, which is just ¾” in size but handles impeccably under pressure. The driver cones are
sufficiently rigid for hours of high energy performance the magnets are high grade, and it is obviously
swivel mounted for wider overall sound dispersion. They are super simple to install and provide high
performance, wide frequency sound that is rich and natural sounding.
Pros :
+ Compact size.
+ 3-way classification.
+ Expert crossover circuitry.
+ Patented SoundMax technology for ultra wide room filling audio.
+ Low price.
Why We Liked It - Yamaha are committed to delivering great sound quality and accessibility and it
certainly shines through in their products, this pair outperform many in their class as at a fraction of their
competitors retailing prices.
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Over to Polk Audio choice again for a look at their 255C-RT set, which is a step up from the Polk Audio
RC80i. They make for very impressive 3-way class, central channel speaker. that is part of Polks esteemed
Vanishing Series
They too feature Polks dynamic balance technology and many components from the RT series but they
have been redesigned utilizing advancement made as the result of hours of heavy data collection. from the
John Hopkins University. The vibrating surfaces of tweeters were scrutinized under a microscope in order
to observe the resonances developments made whilst the cones were in motion. Under laboratory
conditions and aided with laser imaging they then engineered the best combination of materials and
optimal geometry possible to counteract the resonances which are primarily responsible for all high-end
distortion.
They have a highly efficient dual band pass bass ports so the low registers will be clear and capably
handled they work with 10-150 watts.
The Vanishing series are all easy to mount using their one-cut, drop-in installation process and they all
feature a wafer-thin, magnetically secured, sheer grille with a nominal profile from its surround.
Pros:
+ 3-way class.
+ Expertly calibrated.
+ Part of the innovative Vanishing series.
+ Can be wall or ceiling mounted.
Why We Liked It - The internal components are premium quality, It is a central channel option and can be
wall mounted as well as ceiling mounted. The design concept employs some pretty advanced techniques
that combat distortion effectively providing pretty impeccable sound.
VIEW PRICE
Polk Audio literally dominate the accessible regions of audio speakers so it is no surprise to see many
highlighted in todays reviews, so we end with this delectable offering again from fantastic Vanishing series.
It is from the upper end of their product lines so the price may seem a little high in comparison to Polks
more accessible models but the quality speaks for itself.
It is a 3-way class, surround-sound model with a woofer working in conjunction with dual tweeters. The
main driver is 8 inches in diameter and has an ultra wide dispersion. The pair of tweeters concealed in each
better manage the high end frequencies, splitting the workload for better performance and audio clarity.
The surrounds are formed from a formulated blend of high-quality materials and practically every part has
been refined to fit its purpose flawlessly. The circuitry is low impedance and feature advanced crossover
enhancements, that further aid in the delegating of frequency signals and the processing of the audio to
provide a more authentic and natural sounding representation.
They are facile to fit, with their flanged design and complementary cut out template. They have a nominal
profile with their wafer-thin magnetic grilles, just like the rest of the Vanishing series speakers. They make
a great addition to any system but joined by their comrades they are simply sublime as each feature
across-board timbre matched blending.
Pros :
+ 3 way classification pair.
+ Dual tweeters for crystal clarity.
+ Premium grade components.
+ Advanced crossover enhancements.
Why We Liked It - They are one of our top contenders for best sounding in ceiling speakers in their
relative class.
Mounting a speaker in your ceiling means that your ceiling space itself effectively becomes the enclosure,
therefore, it is paramount that the speaker is researched, planned, and constructed with designs that
consider the problems that can come with it and tackle them head-on.
The main thing to consider is how many channels you will have and how many speakers would be optimal
for the space you are hoping to fill with audio. There are tonnes of handy instructional videos on YouTube
many for some of the products we have compared within today's review section.
You will really only need to replace an in-ceiling speaker if it becomes damaged, if it shorts or blows, or if it
is terrible... One drawback with an in-ceiling speaker is you never know how it will sound until it is already
mounted in your ceiling.
Audio electronics is a constantly developing field and quite frequently companies will refine or upgrade
products, adding the latest technology and improvements from newer, better and more expensive lines to
their maiden models. So you may fancy an overhaul from time to time if you keep your ears on the ground
and follow the hype for what's new.
Conclusion
Technology is constantly evolving and thanks to this snowballing effect in-ceiling speakers are becoming a
trendy new reality in home setups. Thanks to the stiff competition from companies hellbent on having
their products take first prize in terms of quality, you can actually get your self a pretty great deal if you
know what you are looking for.
We have chosen to pick apart some 2-way and 3-way class models from some of the top manufacturers
around. They demonstrate some of the best available and show that despite needing 2 or 4 (or perhaps
more?) the capital required is nearly as high as it once was.
Of those, we have reviewed the Polk 80 F/X RT are our forerunners but they re a pricier pair, the Yamaha
3 way class pair is an affordable alternative. With a buyers market you should have no problem finding a
set suited to your desired setup and in all honesty, you won't be disappointed with any of the options we
have looked at today as they all make for awesome additions.
Hopefully, you have learned some of the advantages of adding ceiling speakers to your set up from today's
article, if you're still unsure overhead sound you might prefer browsing our Best In-wall Speakers article
instead.
Expert Tip
If you are working on a concealed surround sound system set up we recommend heading over to our 10
Best In-Wall Speakers in 2018 article.
For a 5-speaker setup, the right and left surrounds should be to the right and left side of your main seating
position
For a 7-speaker setup, the two additional back surround speakers should be placed behind the main listing position, at equal distances
from the main listening seat, and about half as far apart as the right and left surrounds. They should be about as high as the left and
right surrounds.
For a 5-speaker setup, the left and right surrounds should be to the left and right of your main seating position, as far apart as your
front left and right speakers.
For a 6-speaker setup, the center back speaker should go directly behind the main listening position, in line with the front center
channel speaker. It should be about as high as the left and right surrounds.
For a 7-speaker setup, the rear left and right surrounds should be placed behind the main listening position, at equal distances from
that seat. They should be about half as far apart as the right and left surround speakers positioned on the sides.
To bring out the best from any home cinema setup, you'll need a subwoofer with a high crossover if you want to get good full-range
sound. The subwoofer will deliver low frequency sound that adds to the existing sound from your ceiling and in-wall speakers giving a
full range home cinema experience. See our range of subwoofers for your ideal product.
Speakers for Music
If you plan to spend a lot of time in a room listening to music, rather than using music as pleasant background sound then investing
some time planning your speaker locations is a good idea. Try to place the speakers at least 2 feet away from corners and other
surfaces that might interfere with or reflect sound, such as tall or bulky furniture.
If you're installing 2 in-wall or on-wall speakers for stereo listening:
To obtain a good stereo effect, place the left and right speakers an equal distance from your prime listening seat, at ear level
while seated. If the speakers are in a wall that's 10 feet from your chair, place them no more than 10 feet apart from each other and no
less than 5 feet apart.
If you're installing 2 ceiling speakers for stereo listening:
For a good stereo effect, place the left and right speakers an equal distance from your prime listening position, and (if
possible) aim the tweeters toward your seat. For example, if the speakers are 10 feet from your chair, place them no more than 10 feet
apart from each other and no less than 5 feet apart. Measure the distance from the speakers to your chair in a level, horizontal line —
i.e. don't measure upwards from your seat to the speakers in the ceiling.
For listening to music from in-wall and ceiling speakers it goes without saying that generally the more you spend on your speakers the
higher the performance quality (clarity) and quantity (power handling). In-wall, on-wall, and in-ceiling speakers can do a great job with
the highs and mids, to get a good delivery of low frequencies, and a full range sound we recommend models with an 8” driver or 6.5” as
a minimum.
Entertainment listening
In rooms you'll move around in or frequently entertain in, speaker placement designed for critical listening won't work. The music will be
too loud in one area and too soft in another, a flaw that will be most obvious when the volume is low. By employing three or four
speakers in a room, or by judiciously using a combination of direct and reflected sound, you can create a relatively even soundfield.
You'll hear some degree of stereo effect regardless of where you are in the room.
We've written the guidelines below to help you achieve that desired effect. Some of them are situation-specific, while others are more
general. As you read them, note which ones apply to your room, needs, and goals.
General guidelines:
Try to keep speakers about 2 feet away from corners and other surfaces that might interfere with or reflect sound, such as tall
or bulky furniture.
For rectangular rooms of less than 300 square feet, two speakers should suffice. Place them near opposite corners.
For L-shaped rooms, or for rectangular rooms larger than 300 square feet, use 3 or more speakers. Stagger them across the
space for good sound dispersion. If you do end up using an odd number of speakers, stereo input single speakers can be a good
choice.
For a narrow, long room, place the speakers at either end. (Wall speakers can go either at the ends themselves, or on an
adjacent wall.) Stereo input speakers are a good solution for this relatively awkward space.
When your décor or budget won't allow more than two speakers in a large room, try to place left and right stereo speakers
near (but at least 2 feet away from) the corners, or at far ends of the room, to better disperse the sound.
(A) Diagonal placement gives good coverage in a typical rectangular room of 300 square feet or less. (B) Use three or more speakers
in a large or L-shaped room. (C) In a narrow room, place the speakers in the middle at either end. In this example, stereo-input
speakers would be a great choice.
Speaker placement in rooms you'll be entertaining in, such as a dining room:
In-wall: Place them low on the wall and in opposite corners. This creates multiple reflections and a very pleasant and
pervasive sound field at a low volume. Turned up loud, this placement will sound muddy and hard, but for dining room conversation
enhancement, it's unbeatable.
On-wall: Since you probably can't place on-wall speakers very low on the wall, move them higher up the wall, 6-7 feet from the
floor. Place them roughly in opposite corners, and aim the speakers towards the middle of the room. On-wall speakers may be a good
option for some homes, but in-wall speakers will most likely yield better results.
Ceiling speakers: Avoid surfaces in the room that will reflect sound in a disruptive way. For example, if you place a ceiling-
mounted speaker directly over your dining room table, the sound may reflect upward off the table and interfere with conversation.
Ceiling speakers are a good option for dining and entertainment rooms.
Speaker placement in rooms you probably won't be entertaining in, such as a
kitchen or den:
In-wall/on-wall: Place the speakers about 6 feet off the floor. While wall speakers are a great option for many rooms, they tend
to create more "hot spots" (areas where the sound is much louder) than ceiling speakers do.
Ceiling speaker: These will be relatively easy to place, and are less likely to create acoustical problems than wall speakers.
Just follow the general guidelines above to fit your room's shape and size, and you should be in good shape.
Ceiling speaker placement in your bathroom:
If you want to install speakers in your bathroom, stereo single ceiling speakers are a great way to go. One stereo input
speaker plays both channels of stereo music with one woofer and two tweeters; they're great for small rooms or larger awkwardly
shaped areas. Depending on the size and layout of your bathroom, you may want to use more than one. For example, if your bathroom
is relatively large, placing a stereo-input speaker above the sink and one above the bathtub will ensure you can follow that morning's
news, even during noisier activities like brushing your teeth or showering.