Professional Documents
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Tamiya - Model - Mag - Int - 261 - 2017-07 - Superunitedkingdom
Tamiya - Model - Mag - Int - 261 - 2017-07 - Superunitedkingdom
www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
STRIKES AGAIN
EDUARD’S LIMITED FREE GIF T
EDITION MACCHI C202
FOLGORE IN 1:48 FOR SUBSCRIBERS!
DETAILS INSIDE
LET’S GO
BACK TO THE
CLASSICS!
TAMIYA’S
VENERABLE ‘71 PZ.II
IS BROUGHT BACK
TO LIFE
RC IN
DETAILTAMIYA 1:10 RC CARS TRANSFORMED
INTO TO FULL-BLOWN SCALE MODELS
INSIDE...
61
Shizuoka Hobby Show mini-report, Revell BMW i8,
plus new kits, books and modelling accessories… 9 770912 971132
Contents
4 NEWS DESK
New kit and model product news
18 WONDERFUL ELECTRIC
Revell’s 1:24 BMW i8 hybrid supercar with Plamoz
wheels
64 CONTACTS
Where to buy the products used and reviewed in
TMMI
32 FROM RC TO
SCALE REALITY
Tamiya 1:10 RC cars
transformed into full-
blown scale models
Join TMMI at facebook.com!
HOW
O TO
OW T CONTA
CONTACT
T CT
TAC US:
Do you live outside the UK and want TELEPHONE: (UK) 01525 222573 FAX: (UK) 01525 222574
EDITORIAL EMAIL: editor@tamiyamodelmagazine.com
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Tamiya Model Magazine is published monthly by Doolittle Media Ltd.
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Subscription rates for 1 year (12 issues) are:
Within UK: £44, Europe: £56, Worldwide/USA: £69
TMMI 261 July 2017 3
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Newsdesk Extra
T
amiya had some neat new releases on show this year,
perhaps the most eye-catching being the 1:16 M1A2
Abrams MBT display model. When we first heard of
this, we assumed it was going to be a 'Full Option'
radio controlled model but in fact, it is being released as
a static, non-motorised model. We are keeping our fingers
crossed that a fully specced-up RC version will emerge at
some point!
STURMPANZER IV BRUMMBÄR
In the 1:35 Military Miniatures range, we have the
Sd.Kfz.166 Sturmpanzer IV 'Brummbär' Late-Production.
This kit is a new release and not a re-issue of the 1976
model, so it will have modern standards of detail and
refinement. The kit will come with no less than eight new
crew and support figures, all using high-tech moulding
technology to make them some of the very best injection-
moulded figures available.
To simulate the Brummbär's 'zimmerit' anti-magnetic
mine coating, Tamiya will also release a self-adhesive
textured zimmerit sheet for the model.
F4U-1D CORSAIR
The big Corsair returns, this time in 'D' form, which is
great news for fans of this extraordinary WW2 fighter.
The F4U-1D will come with the full 'blown' canopy with no
reinforcing strips in the main section, new propeller with
correctly profiled blades for the 'D, twin underside pylons
for bombs or drop-tanks (both included), tail-wheel fairing,
underwing rocket racks and rockets, blanked-out cockpit
floor window and markings for one aircraft from VF-84 or
VMF-351. Tamiya’s next 1:35 armour release is the Sturmpanzer IV ‘Brummbär’. The kit d
steel-rimmed roadwheels. The schurzen side-plates are individual parts and ca
TYRRELL P-34
As we mentioned last issue, Tamiya's three kits of the 1977
Tyrrell P-34 F1 car (1:10 RC, plus 1:12 and 1:20 static) are
to return, the scale models coming with photo-etched parts.
Tamiya also announced the IJN Shimakaze destroyer in
1:700 and a static-display version of the 1:16 Jagdpanther.
More details on all these models coming to TMMI over
the next few issues. ●
ummbär’. The kit depicts the late-pattern design with the MG bulge on the front plate and
vidual parts and can be fitted individually for a varied look
The 1:32 F4U-1D includes a frameless canopy centre-section, double belly pylons with bombs and
droptanks, plus eight underwing rockets plus rails. New decals are included
Tamiya’s all-new 1:35 Wehrmacht Tank Crew Set features four, full-body figures plus four The mighty 1:16 Jagdpanther will now be available as a static display
half-figures, the latter perfect for adding to Tamiya’s extensive range of WW2 German AFVs model, for modellers who don’t need the RC and electronic gear
The f
The 1:12 (left) and 1:20 (above)
Tyrrell P34s are returning, and
the 1:10 RC model too! The
scale models will come with
photo-etched sheets
The c
The full-sized Sand Scorcher is the highlight of Tamiya HQ’s lobby museum, and now it has a matching scooter!
The crazy-looking size-wheel drive Konghead will put a smile on anyone’s face - and it’s huge!
LIGHTNING
S T R IK E S A G A IN
Paolo Portuesi builds his seventh 1:48
Macchi C202 Folgore (lightning), this time in
the form of an Eduard Limited Edition kit
S
ince the Eighties, of many tiny stencils and
Hasegawa has meant quite well researched
three things to me; alternative markings,
multiple versions, something unmatched by
multimedia parts and large most aftermarket producers
decal sheets. Modifying some of the time.
sprue or adding new parts Fast forward thirty
enabled them to release years and in mating some
many different versions of of the best scale models
the same aircraft, something with some high quality
before unseen. Featuring resin and etched parts and
etched or white metal parts dropping in the same box a
enabled the manufacturer gorgeous decal sheet printed
to replicate small details to by Cartograf, Eduard has
an unprecedented levels of raised to the next level the
accuracy and strength. When same approach that made
basic national insignia, and of Hasegawa one of the
a few of codes were the most world leading firm in scale
that I hoped to find in a modelling. This limited
kit, Hasegawa introduced edition Macchi 202 makes no
me to the easy availability exception.
AIN
202 was first released over the effort
twenty years ago. It comes
in the form of a clear sprue
plus four small sprues
and three main sprues in
grey polystyrene. It is an
easy build, requiring no
more than sixty parts to
complete; less than a ten
stage process. Looking at the First, an undercoat of Mr Hobby Over the brown, a mixture
kit parts, the cockpit needs H-406 Brown was applied as a Mr Hobby H-312 and H-324
background colour (60/40) was applied
improvement, being far from
today standards. The same
is true regarding the main
wheels, the tail wheel, and
many other small parts like
the supercharger intake. To
spruce this kit up, Eduard
supplies a photo-etched
sheet and few resin parts.
Most of the etched parts
are designated to enrich the
cockpit, but there are plenty
of detailing parts for the
exterior, the undercarriage
legs and the intakes. Main
wheels, two alternative tail
wheels and a supercharger
intake are supplied in resin.
They do look amazing. Last For the prominent oxygen tank laying on the cockpit floor, the author chose mix of Tamiya X-3 Royal Blue
but not least, six different and XF-2 Flat White in a ratio of 80/20
markings, each one in a
different camouflage and a
lot of quite readable small
stencils, are included in
a very thin and perfectly
registered decal sheet. My The fantastic detail of the
choice fell on a yellow-nosed SBS resin parts can be
machine deployed in Russia. U seen here
bays. In this case I went were first painted with camouflage. Next step was In a similar fashion
for the same greenish mix Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black, to spray many thin layers I painted all the lower
chosen for the cockpit: then lightly oversprayed of a mix of Mr Hobby H-79 surfaces with Mr Hobby
Mr Hobby H-324 Light with a variety of shades of (30%) and H-310 (70%), H-324 Light Grey. With
Grey (40%) and H-312 grey, and finally oil paint allowing for some highlight most of the camouflage done,
Green (60%). In the colour-washed with burnt effects. When all the upper it was time to paint the
meantime, each leg and umber and ochre. After surfaces were properly dry, I yellow spinner, the fuselage
the undercarriage doors masking the undercarriage washed them all with some bands and the white wing
received their load of etched bays, it was time to paint un-thinned burned umber oil triangles. The propeller
detailing parts and were the camouflage. paint, soon wiped away with blades were not painted
ready to be painted with I sprayed all the upper a clean cloth. I sprayed the black as per instructions, but
the same greenish mix. The surfaces with Mr Hobby green spots at a very close one side Tamiya XF-1 Flat
main and tail tyres created H-17 Brown. It is a quite distance and at a quite high Black and the other side a
by Eduard for this kit are dark colour, ideal to air pressure, using some medium grey mix made of a
simply incredible. All tyres give some depth to the H-65 thinned to 50%. 90% Mr Hobby H-324 Light U
Mini Review...
MENG COLOR BY AK INTERACTIVE: This pack, produced by AK Interactive for Meng Model, comprises six 17ml bottles of acrylic
US Aircraft Metal Skin Colors paints, matched for natural-metal finished US aircraft of WW2 (and the Korean War). Included
(MC-812) in the box are Silver (MC-502), Aluminium (MC-511), US Olive Drab (MC-298), Interior Green
ITEM NO.NC9 (MC-300) and Rubber Black (MC-202). The metallics and rubber colour are self-explanatory, the
www.ak-interactive.com olive drab is for the anti-glare panel, the interior yellow for undercarriage bays and the interior
green is for the cockpit. Very handy!
CONCLUSION
What are my final
considerations? Well,
building this kit was an
enjoyable experience, even if
it was the seventh Hasegawa
Macchi 202 I built so far.
Eduard's new photo-etched
and resin parts boost the
quality of an already good
kit. Looking at the finished
product, I see a level of detail
and accuracy that once was
typical only for a 1:32 model,
and I am very happy! ●
TECHSPEC...
EDUARD 1:48 MACCHI C202 FOLGORE
LIMITED EDITION KIT NO.1132
Materials;
Injection moulded grey and clear polystyrene,
resin, photo-etch, waterslide decals
Paints used;
- Mr Hobby; H-413, H-85, H-324, H-312, The side-hinged canopy
allows the superb SBS
H-310, H-79, H-65, H-406, H-20,
cockpit to be at least
- Humbrol Enamel; 113, 56, 33 partially visible
- Alclad II; ALC-116, ALC-106, ALC-312,
- Tamiya Acrylics; X-2, X-3, XF-1
Accessories used;
- Eduard Brassin; undercarriage bay
(648278), Exhaust Stacks (648281)
- SBS Resin; Macchi C202 Cockpit set
(48017)
- Montex Mask; Macchi C202 (K48191)
Other stuff;
Superscale Set softening and setting solu-
tion, Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
AVAILABILITY;
Eduard models and accessories are widely
available from good model shops and online.
www.creativemodels.co.uk www.eduard.com
Mr Hobby paints are widely available from
good model shops and online.
www.albionhobbies.com
WONDERFU
ELECT
W
hen I started obvious that although the from the roof line to the on both sides it extended past
building this kit, front and rear engines were rear deck area, and the the bodywork. I then applied
my expectations represented, they weren’t lower intakes. I was advised some heat to the outer edges
weren’t very greatly detailed, however a while ago that it’s not of the bumper until they were
good. In the past I’ve built the rest of the car appeared always best to follow the level with the front wings of
numerous Revell 1:144 to be adequately detailed. order of the instructions. the bodywork. I then glued
aircraft kits with varying It can be displayed with the I’ve also found that prior to the front bumper into place
levels of success, most doors up in the open position building any kit that you using Tamiya Extra Thin.
of which needed a lot of or, like I have done, in the should your homework to see I found the bodywork to be
thought to get right, so I closed position. what problems/issues other in good condition with only
did expect to put in a lot builders have had. One of two small sink marks at the
of work to get this kit to a BODYWORK the issues I found was that bottom of both 'A' pillars
presentable level. The kit The main bodywork comes it’s best to attach the front which required only a small
is one of Revell’s recent in seven sections, the front bumper to the main bodywork amount of filler to smooth
designs (2015) and is a 'skill bumper, the main bodyshell, prior to painting. I offered out. I then sanded all of the
level 3'. When looking at the rear bumper, the rear up the front bumper to the body using a 600 grit Tamiya
the various parts it became upper wings which extend bodywork where I found that Sanding Sponge.
You can get a great gloss black finish using Zero paints Semi Gloss Black,
finishing it with the company’s two-part ‘Diamond Finish’ clear varnish
UL
colours requires
patience
CTRIC PAINTWORK
As this car was for my
bodywork three to four coats
of the BMW Ionic Silver.
son he decided the colour, For such a thin paint it also
this was a BMW i8 colour gave great coverage. I left
namely Ionic Silver from that to dry for several days
Zero Paints. These paints before I masked the areas I
are really easy to use and wanted to paint black. For
give a great finish. Using an some reason I cannot get on
Iwata Revolution CR First, with the Zero Paints Gloss
I gave the bodywork several Black, however I have found
coats of Zero Paints Light that I can get a great finish
Grey Primer, which gives using Zero paints Semi Even the wing mirrors
great coverage. I then let Gloss Black, and once coated received the carbon-fibre
decal treatment
this dry off for several days in clear you can’t notice the
before sanding it down with difference. So all the areas
a Tamiya 1000 grit sanding that I masked off along with
sponge. Next, I gave the the rear panel were then U
TMMI 258 April 2017 19
Flocking was applied to the carpeted areas and it looks far better than a painted surface here.
Give it a go! To contrast with the black background colour, the seats were finished in Vallejo
Acrylics White Grey, an attractive off-white shade
Here we see the finished cabin ‘module’ looking very neat and finely detailed. It simply drops onto the chassis, between front and rear engines!
The door cards, centre console and dashboard were painted in a combination of Tamiya X-8 Gloss Black and Vallejo White Grey and they look very slick
U
TMMI 261 July 2017 21
t su c c e ss usin g the
“ I’ve had g
carbon de c
re
a l
a
s h e e
I’
t
v
s
e
fr
fo
om
u n
Scale
d re acts
Motorsport, w h ic h
sol...
well to M icro s e t an d M ic ro
”
V showed through. I then gave after doing some research and Vallejo White Grey. works for me. Instead I like
the wheels a final coat of I decided that a white on The kit decals were also to mask off the areas to be
2K Clear Coat. This was the black interior would be nice. applied which were of a painted black, then spray
first time I have used this Firstly the interior tub and very nice quality. For the them in Tamiya Semi Gloss
effect and I’m pleased with boot area were painted it steering wheel are probably Black. Once the black has
the results. For the brakes, in Tamiya X-18. Next up, the thinnest decals I’ve ever dried, I water down some
I used the kit parts with the which again was another used, comprising a tiny blue Microscale Krystal Klear, and
addition of the Hobby Design first for me, was flocking the line around the face of the apply some of this round the
disc covers which offer a floor and rear boot area. For wheel, not the easiest to edges of the windows. I then
more realistic appearance. this I painted small sections apply. This decal comes in lay the windows on the body.
They were painted in Vallejo at a time with Humbrol one round piece, however I
Dark Aluminium and the Gloss Black and then found I cut it in two and it FINAL ASSEMBLY
callipers were painted in sprinkled flocking material fitted easily. All the interior Final assembly is more or
Tamiya X-18. over them. This created a parts were then fitted less carried out as per the
realistic effect and not just together using CA glue. instructions. I glued the
INTERIOR the normal painted plastic doors in the closed position
The interior is very nicely for the carpet area. CLEAR PARTS to eliminate the possibility
detailed. As for the colours, I then tackled the centre I have read that a lot of of any future damage to the
I believe it’s as wild as your console and the steering builders use a permanent doors or car. When it came
imagination can go. Initially wheel. The console was marker for the black areas to fitting the body to the
I was going to paint it in a painted in a mixture of round glass areas, however chassis, I was pleasantly
rather boring black, however Tamiya X-8 Gloss Black I’ve never found that this surprised that this just
LET’S GO BACK TO
John Bonanni brings Tamiya’s venerable 1971 Pz.II back
from the grave, giving it a worn and winterised look
2 3 4 6
V started Dragon Marder II and tracks. The new Dragon brass mesh from underneath 2: A modern Dragon Marder II
at a local show for a few wheels would not fit onto the top deck. Before mating serves as a perfect donor for
dollars, which would serve the torsion bar axle arms, the upper and lower hulls parts. I picked up this started
kit for £2 at a local model show.
as a donor. The first step so they were removed. The I primed the lower hull in Most of the kit had been started,
to bring the Pz.II back to road wheels were attached black primer. Next, the hull but the parts I needed were left
the finishing line was to directly to the torsion bar, sections were mated using untouched 3: Glass cleaner was
strip the built up layers of without axle arm, using liquid cement and CA. able to remove nearly all of the
paint from years of being a cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Again, I turned to the old paint with exception to a
few areas, which were treated
test bed. Fortunately, I had Next, I created a simple Dragon donor kit for missing with denatured alcohol 4: The
used acrylic paints almost jig out of strip styrene to details. On the rear plate, Dragon suspension components
exclusively so Windex and assemble the individual a convoy light and reflector fit without issues. The only
glass cleaner easily removed link Magic Tracks. Using were attached using liquid modification required was to
a bulk of the paint. The Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid cement. Other details added remove the wheel mounting shaft
from the torsion bar 5: Generic
stubborn areas were treated Cement, the track runs were included tow hooks, muffler photo-etch mesh was installed
with denatured alcohol. assembled for each side. screen, and spare track link under the engine grates
After letting the assemblies bracket. Next, the turret was
UPGRADES AND DETAILS dry for ten minutes, the finished off by drilling out
After nearly all of the old tracks were wrapped around the main cannon and coaxial
paint had been stripped it the suspension components MG34.
was time to evaluate what and bonded using Extra
parts needed replacing. The Thin. I started on the upper PANZER GREY
suspension was the first hull by boxing in the large The base coat of panzer
major sub-assembly tackled open sponson areas with grey was a mix of Tamiya
by replacing all of the road sheet styrene. The open Flat Blue (XF-8), German
wheels, idlers, sprockets grills were also covered in Grey (XF-63), and Sky Grey 5
8 9 12
10 11
6: A strip of styrene was added to (XF-19). I prefer to use Sky Micro Set solutions. After WHITEWASH WAYS
represent the field applied spare track Grey to lighten the base the decals set overnight Numerous techniques have
mounting bracket. The more detailed
Dragon towing hooks replaced the older
colour because it doesn’t the entire model received been developed to achieve
Tamiya option 7: Other details missing create a frosted look when another coat of Clear a whitewashed finish.
from the kit included the rear convoy using white. After applying in preparation for the Through experimenting on
light, reflector and exhaust shield. Two a light filter of Medium Blue weathering steps. various projects I’ve found
pieces of photo-etch strip and bolts
attached the modified shield taken from
(XF-18), I began picking out
the details with Vallejo Field
a combination of all of them U
the modern Tamiya Pz.II 8: The black
primer served two purposes: reveal any Blue (70964) to add contrast. 13 14
construction errors and provide a dark The tools were also painted
base coat to cover all recessed areas at this time using a variety
9: A combination of Tamiya acrylics of Vallejo and LifeColor
were used for the German Grey base acrylics to replicate steel,
coat 10: To increase the models blue
hue it received a thin coat of Tamiya wood, and Bakelite. Prior to
Medium Blue 11: Details were picked decalling the entire model
out using water based acrylics, which received several light coats
are much better for brush painting of Tamiya Clear (X-22),
as opposed to Tamiya acrylics 12: which protects the paint
The gun barrels and front lights were
drilled out to add realism; MV lenses
from reacting to the decal 15 16
will be added later 13: At this point setting solutions.
the details look exaggerated, but The decals used were
throughout the weathering process they from the book Pz.Kpfw II
will be toned down and depth to the Vol. 1 by Wydawnictwo,
finish 14: Waterslide decals printed by
TechMod were added using Micro Sol
which reflected a vehicle
and Set, which allowed them to form from 9th Company, 24th
around the turret details 15: Two coats Panzer Regiment, 24th
of hairspray are to ensure the entire Panzer Division. The vehicle
surface is covered from every angle was employed during the
16: The first coat of white paint looks Stalingrad Campaign
very faint, but don’t worry it’s only the
first step of many for a whitewash finish in November 1942. The
17: Immediately after the white was decals were placed for a
airbrushed on a brush dampened with few minutes in warm water
water was used to begin the removal allowing them to easily
process 18: Washable white helped slide off onto the model and
create the subtle worn finish; it dries
dead flat and can be brushed on as well
fixed using Micro Sol and 17 18
19 20 MODELSPEC...
Tamiya 1:35 German PanzerKampfWagen II Ausf.F/G Kit No.35009
Accessories used:
1:35 Dragon Marder II (Donor)No. 6262
MV lenses
Rating
+ Still holds up well compared to modern kits
25 26 - Very basic vinyl tracks
27
28
19: Titanium white oil paint increased the colour intensity and further blended the worn areas
20: Washes are a very important step in modelling, on this project I used Wilder’s Deep Shadow
Wash straight from the bottle. Clean up was easy with the use of Humbrol thinner 21: The first
layer of dust was added by airbrushing a thin coat of Buff on the horizontal surfaces 22: Earth
pigments were added dry by tapping a loaded brush over the models surface 23: A pipette filled
with Humbrol thinner fixed the pigment. Once dry, an old brush blended the pigments removing
clumps and creating a dusty surface 24: The same process used for applying pigments to the hull
was used on the suspension 25: Dark washes and speckling increased the randomness of the
muddy finish, and graphite pencil was used to polish the rims 26: Thick mud was created by first
stippling on Vallejo Dark Earth Texture followed by several layers of pigments and enamel effects
27: Damp areas around the hull and vertical streaks add interest and break up the flat finish
28: The distinctive two bands present on the PzII’s main armament were easy to replicate by CB35105 1:35 - Skoda LT Vz35 & R-2 Tank 2in1 (Eastern
masking the bands and burnishing the surface with gun metal pigment European Axis forces) £37.99
to use Winsor & Newton Titanium gun metal pigment and a graphite
White. I began by adding dots of oil pencil highlighted the polished metal
paints which were blended using sections.
Humbrol Thinner. Last additions to the finish were
gloss effects to represent damp areas
DOWN AND DIRTY and oil stains. Damp areas were
After completing the whitewash I created using AMMO Wet Effects.
picked out the details by applying By diluting the solution, the glossy
a dark pin wash. Next, Buff finish can be changed to more of a
(XF-57) was selectively airbrushed satin appearance. I mixed Winsor & CB35119 1:35 - Sturmgeschütz III E Sd.Kfz. 142/1
onto horizontal surfaces to create Newton Mars Black to more colour to (Eastern Front 1942) £37.99
a foundation for pigments. The AK Oil Effects for split oil stains.
foundation was further expanded
using Humbrol Khaki Drill Matt (72), FINAL THOUGHTS
which was brushed on and blended This was a fun project through and
similar to the Titanium White. The through, and a nice departure from
model was set aside to dry overnight the high tech kits released today.
before adding pigments. It brought me back to the basics of
Various earth tone pigments were modelling. Despite its age, the Tamiya
added straight from the bottle and option still holds up well against
then fixed using Humbrol thinner. modern counterparts. The only area
Once dry, an old brush was used to that requires an upgrade would be
blend the clumps of pigments. The replacing the single piece vinyl tracks.
lower hull and tracks received the With a few extra details added this GB7008 1:72 - DFS230B-1 Light Assault Glider £20.99
same treatment. Continuing on the kit can be a fun weekend slammer
lower hull, I applied darker washes build. So, what classic is up next? I’m
to the wheels, sprockets, and idlers. thinking the Brummbär (good timing H.G.Hannant Ltd,
Next, I speckled multiple earth John, there’s a new-tool Brummbär on Harbour Road, Oulton Broad, Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR32 3LZ, England.
tones to create a layer effect. Lastly, the way from Tamiya! Ed). ●
Open from 09.00 to 17.30 Monday to Saturday.
Phone: 00 44 (0)1502 517444 (8 lines) 0845 130 72 48 local rate
TMMIonly
from UK phones 261(NOTJuly 2017 29
mobiles)
Fax: 00 44 (0)1502 500521 E-Mail: sales@hannants.co.uk
Revosys sat on
this release for
some time, but
was it worth
waiting for?
The tracks
are individual,
articulated links
RECOMMENDED:
49833 Bf 110F (PE-Set)
648131
Bf 110F-4 Ofw. R. Kollak, 7./NJG 4,
Juvincourt, France, June 1943
648055
Bf 110F-2 Ofw. T. Weissenberger, 6.(Z)/JG 5,
Kirkenes, Norway, June 1942
www.eduard.com
FULL BUILD: RC SCALE MODEL CARS
CUSTOMISED TAMIYA 1:10 RC CARS
FROM RC TO
SCALE REALITY
UK modeller Adrian (Kuhfarben)
transforms Tamiya 1:10 RC cars into
full-blown scale models. Here, he
describes how he does it
R
adio control cars aren't
exactly known for
scale realism. Tanks,
trucks and other slow
moving vehicles like crawlers
certainly, but most cars are
intended as sturdy playthings
and put fun and reliability
front and centre. Tamiya's
cars are a little different in
that they take a leaf from the
company's history book and
lean towards accuracy more
than most manufacturers.
After all, Tamiya's first RC
car in 1976 was not much
more than a motorised
version of the 1:12 Porsche
RSR plastic kit. With the
boom in the RC drift scene
in recent years things have
changed, but the same
enthusiasm for recreating the
details in 1:10 doesn't seem
to have extended to race and
rally cars.
A few years ago I'd built a
few Tamiya RC trucks and
being a lifelong petrolhead,
my attention soon turned
to cars. Initially I thought
most of them looked a bit
poor; stickers for windows
and too high a ride height,
but the work of a couple of
Tamiyaclub.com members
– Victorious Secret and
DeeMiller – showed me what
was possible in terms of scale
looks. With widened stance,
roll cages, antennae etc.,
these looked closer to proper
models than RC cars.
Of course for ultimate
realism a 1:24 static model
is superior, but I like the
opportunity for improvement
that RC offers, taking
something that's compromised
by the practicality of needing
to be a robust toy and fixing
everything that's stopping
it from looking like a scale
model. If the car will not be
a runner then it opens up
all kinds of possibilities for
additions and changes that
would be ruined on the first U
32 July 2017 TMMI 261
V roll. I find just how much Another benefit is it ensures the body on shorter posts The floor is an inch or so
I can transform the car a glossy finish. It does with magnets to hold it higher than what would
from standard to be more present a set of challenges in place. Some bodies be the real floor of the
rewarding than constructing though. As the body is one have holes for the posts car to allow room for the
something that already has piece, windows and lights pre-drilled at the factory, electrics. These require the
a high level of realism. must be masked off and usually those supplied as individual sections painting
Although I don't run any any masking has to be done part of a kit. Those which appropriately. I'll either
of these cars I have set in reverse. It also tends to are sold as spare parts mask off the drivers and
myself one rule; the model make them look unrealis- tend not to have the holes. spray it black if the drivers
must be a fully functional tically shiny. Paint beneath Wherever possible I'll try need to be white, or for dark
radio controlled car. For 1mm of clear plastic at 1:10 to obtain a body without colour driver suits I'll paint
some of these that means scale effectively looks like a the holes, but some, like the whole thing black then
just a basic chassis with 10mm-thick clear coat on a the 2002 Impreza are not the suit colour afterwards.
a standard 540 motor and real car. available like this. I'm distinctly average at
friction shocks, for others it's Normally, any black When painting the body painting the drivers' faces so
a race spec double carbon parts like grilles are also I always back with silver the only tip I can really give
deck with big bore shocks painted on the inside, but then the body colour again here is don't make the eyes
and a brushless setup. as this always produces a or black, depending on the too big.
gloss finish I tend to paint look I'm going for. Like an I'll usually paint exhausts
PAINTING with semi-gloss black on undercoat, but in reverse, and intercoolers too. The
Some Tamiya RC bodies like the outside of the body. The given the inside is painted. chrome finish these parts
the 1:14 truck range, the bodies are supplied straight Older cars such as the are supplied in is fine for a
three-speed pick-up trucks from the mould and require Porsche 934 will have black drifter but looks too flashy
and the early 1:12 cars are trimming, cutting out the interiors but newer ones for a race or rally car. I also
made from ABS/polystyrene, wheel arches etc. I do this will be body coloured. I paint wheels, sometimes if I
but the majority are clear using the score and snap use Tamiya PS spray cans. can't get them in the proper
polycarbonate. Of the 1:10 method then neaten any For plastic parts which are colour (the white 306 Maxi
race and rally cars, only a edges with sandpaper. moulded in the correct colour wheels were grey) or just
single model – The 2003 The normal mounting I just clear-coat. This is to look nicer - paint always
release of the Lancia 037 method for RC bodies is to important for UV stability to looks better than coloured
– is ABS, the rest are all have holes drilled in the stop white parts yellowing. plastic, even if it's just clear.
polycarb. The reason for this body, then posts mounted on I use Tamiya TS sprays and TS spray again. Some of the
is durability is it's flexible the chassis which the body Tamiya and Revell acrylics. mesh type wheels like the
enough to withstand most rests on and is secured with The interiors with drivers M3 and 911 GT2 have solid
crashes and as you paint metal clips. This clearly are a moulded tray with sections for strength, I paint
the inside, this prevents the detracts from the scale-look separate heads, steering these matt black.
paint flaking off in collisions. so I mount them by resting wheel and gear stick.
V Other times I use parts from 20cm) semi-gloss black then Other parts I make myself. Building the cages is quite
different cars, Tamiya's cut bits off as I need it. To The exhausts on the Escort fiddly and time consuming.
kits vary in scale accuracy. stick the mesh and other and 306 are styrene tube, I bend the tubing after
Some have actual plastic parts to the shell I find squashed to an oval shape. heating with a heat gun then
accessories, others just the best option is hot glue. The splitters on the M3s are stick it together with hot
stickers. The wiper on the This dries in seconds and black styrene sheet and the glue. If you're careful a spot
GT2 Porsches and BMW M3 can be removed or things aerials are styrene tubes and of glue between two tubes
is from the Alfa Romeo 155, repositioned by heating it up rods. It's very basic stuff but will squeeze out slightly and
and the roof scoops on the again with a heat gun. It's it looks good. look like a scale weld once
Impreza and Golf are from cheaper than Shoe Goo, dries The roll cages are made the cage is painted. The red
the Suzuki SX4 WRC. faster and doesn't have the from styrene tubing. I use towing eyes are electrical
Where the car has vents solvent smell. The mesh is, I 4mm, 5mm and 6mm and ring connectors painted red
or open sections I like to think, one of the things that vary the diameter - 6mm for and poked through a slot
cut these out, which I do makes the biggest difference. the main hoop and 5mm and cut into the shell. The 1998
before painting. For the If you look at my 911 GT2s 4mm for the rest. Cars from Impreza was a commissioned
grilles I fit mesh which is you can see how much the 70s have thinner tubing, build and that got an extra
either aluminium or steel better the grille looks on the it got thicker in the 90s level of effort - right down to
sourced from eBay. I paint Vaillant 911 compared to (Escort and 306) then thin the washer jets and period
the whole sheet (20cm x the earlier Jägermeister one. again recently (Impreza). correct tax disc. U
The most important factor in getting the car to sit right, is wheel fitment. With the exception of the 911 GT2, standard-fit wheels always sit too far inside
the wheel arches. The author corrects this with metal wheel spacers in a combination of different thicknesses.
V STICKERS AND VINYL can be made from matt (0.5mm on earlier builds) have been building these
This is my advantage when black vinyl which looks more held in alignment with cars so I had all the gear
building these cars. I'm realistic for older cars with masking tape then stuck to already including lighting.
not the best at painting or rubber trims. You can see the inside of the window. I'll end with a few basic tips:
styrene fabrication but I'm a on the 306 the door windows With the one piece body the • Choose a clean background
graphic designer by trade so have matt trims but the rear panel lines aren't very deep - I use white paper or a
I know the software inside quarter windows are gloss, and it's not really possible to black cloth.
out and all the technicalities just like the real car. scribe them like on a plastic • Get down low, recreate
of cutting my own stickers. Some cars like the Lancer kit, so I use 0.4mm black the same viewing angle as
In addition to the obvious Evo and Lancia Delta came tape to accent these. you'd see a real car from.
uses; sponsor logos and with the interior sets so • Ensure the whole car
lettering, I also use it for have stickers for those PHOTOGRAPHY is in focus - if the back
the sidewall writing on included. Others like the Not part of the build but is blurred this is a real
tyres and window trims. 306, Xsara and Imprezas something I want to touch giveaway that it's a model.
Making window trims has I have made them, again on is photography. I've seen • Pose the car - wheels
two benefits - firstly you from cut vinyl. This can be plenty of amazing cars that turned is the car equivalent
get a neater cut than is quite fiddly as the "Sabelt" have just been snapped of the muscle flex and
possible trying to cut out lettering on the harnesses on a table full of junk in shows off the wheel.
the supplied ones from the is only a few mm wide. poor lighting. It's a subject • Avoid bright sunshine -
sticker sheet (the sheets on One recent use is the rear that could (and has) fill a you'll just get hot-spots
most models aren't pre-cut), window heater elements. book but I've been doing and reflections. Soft light is
but the main reason is they This is a row of 0.3mm strips photography longer than I more flattering. ●
T
his is Tamiya's 1:35 Chieftain in Iranian served in the 1980-88 Iran/Iraq war. Overall this was
camouflage, which I recently had pleasure of a great fun to build. As for assembly, the main build
building. There is no question how good Tamiya's was out-of-the-box but I added some stowage and bags
Chieftain is some even say if you shake well around the turret to make it look lived-in. For colour, I
enough the kit will come out of it fully built. Chieftains mixed Tamiya Acrylics XF-49 Khaki with XF-58 Olive
in Iran have a long history from their glorious entry Green and lightened the mixture with XF-2 Flat White
to their valuable service during the Iran/Iraq War. to create Iranian greenish-khaki. For weathering, I used
When I was building this kit I had the pleasure of paints to create shadows and oil paint to give the work
meeting with one of the tanks' top commanders who some texture.
TECHSPEC...
Availability;
Tamiya models and accessories are widely
available from good model shops and
online. UK import and distribution by The
Hobby Company Limited; www.hobbyco.net
Mod
el b
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Mo
Get Creative!
HOBBYBOSS, VALLEJO, MODEL MASTER, MINIART, MASTER BOX, AK
INTERACTIVE, MIG PRODUCTIONS, PLUS MODEL AND MANY MORE...
Unit 6-10, Honeysome Ind Est., Honeysome Road, Chatteris, Cambs. PE16 6TG
www.creativemodels.co.uk Tel: +44(0)1354 760022
The latest photo-etched sets, resin parts, figures and accessories to enhance your scale models...
TAMIYA, JAPAN
www.hobbyco.net
This is a two-metre straight vinyl hose for higher-powered airbrush
compressors and comes with a Tamiya/Iwata fitting at both ends. It is
made to a high standard and will last for years with careful usage.
AIR HOSE FOR HIGH-POWERED COMPRESSORS (12674)
EDUARD BRASSIN
1:48
- SE.5a propeller four-blade propeller (648318) for Eduard
1:32
- TER (632103)
PLUS MODEL,
CZECH REPUBLIC
www.creativemodels.co.uk
Plus Model continue to create superb
items for dioramic scenes and their
latest items include a neat wooden
footbridge, tall 'metal' doors for a
workshop or factory and an open-
fronted 'lean-to' type of shed. The
bridge is very well designed with
the rickety foot-boards being laser
cut form a single piece of wood, a
much better prospect than having to
attach each board individually. The
shed, which is in 1:48, comes with
laser-cut panels and resin cartwheel,
storage case, 50gl drum and jerrycans
in resin. The doors are formed from
laser cut/etched card with photo-
etched lock and handle. Great stuff
and charismatic details for dioramas.
1:48
- Shed (4051)
1:35
- Workshop gate (503)
- Footbridge (501)
XTRADECAL, UK
www.hannants.co.uk
New decals in from Hannants cover a range of subjects
for WW2 subjects, including the forthcoming Airfix
Supermarine Walrus in 1:48. As always for this range,
the markings are printed in perfect registration with
rich colours and excellent opacity. Full application and
placement instructions are included with each pack. Please
note, swastika emblems are provided on these decals
sheets where appropriate, but TMMI has obscured them to
conform with laws in countries where the magazine is sold.
1:72
Focke-Wulf Fw200 Condor C-2, C-3, C-4, C-8 (X72262)
Messerschmitt Bf109 Stab Pt.2 (X72264)
Luftwaffe JG.5 (X72266)
1:48
Vickers Supermarine Walrus Collection (X48174)
Messerschmitt Bf109 Stab Pt.2 (X48173)
1:32
Messerschmitt Bf109 Stab Pt.2 (X32067)
The latest photo-etched sets, resin parts, figures and accessories to enhance your scale models...
BARRACUDACAST, USA
www.barracudacals.com
Just arrived from California are no less than five new detail and upgrade sets for
the Monogram/Revell 1:72 B-1B Lancer (adaptable for the Airfix kit too). This
immense model gets a new nose and tail correction parts, wing gloves, nose
and main wheels (non-weighted tyres), replacement air intakes plus late-pattern
exhausts and rear nacelles. It's a lot of resin for this otherwise very good kit, the
sets refining and accurising some key areas. The exhaust set is extremely fine
indeed, with individually cast actuator arms for the 'petals' of the afterburner cans
and internally detailed nacelle ends; the latter is one of the most flawless resin
castings we've ever seen at TMMI. If you intend to build the 1:72 B1-B, do give
these sets some serious consideration, they are fantastic.
1:72
- B-1B Lancer late exhaust and rear nacelle upgrade (BR72298)
- B-1B Lancer intake and forward nacelle upgrade set (BR72300)
- B-1B Lancer main and nosewheel set (BR72299)
- B-1B Lancer wing glove set (BR72301)
- B-1B nose and tail correction set - late (BR72296)
EDUARD,
AMUSING HOBBY, CZECH REPUBLIC
JAPAN SPITFIRE MK.IXC EARLY
PANTHER II VERSION
www.modellbau-koenig.de www.eduard.com
SCALE 1:35 www.creativemodels.co.uk
MATERIALS; IM, SVT, WS SCALE 1:48
ITEM NO.35A018 MATERIALS; IM, PE, WS, PCM
The WW2 German Panther ITEM NO.8282
will always be a popular scale Marking options... With their
modelling subject and the more sublime 1:48 Spitfire Mk.IXc,
exotic the version the better, Eduard have established a
it seems. There are few more benchmark kit of this most
interesting Panthers than the ‘II’ famous WW2 fighter, an
with its Tiger II-type, steel-wheel achievement that that is likely to
suspension and Schmalturm stand for years to come. The kit
rangefinder turret giving it a lean, is still being released in various
late-war look. Amusing Hobby iterations and one the latest is
have created an all-new kit of the ‘early version’, which comes
the vehicle and it comes with with two wing-options. Five
a couple of appealing features, markings-options are provided
such as highly detailed, multipart here; ‘EN315’ of Squadron Leader
articulated tracks that perfectly Stanisłav Skalski, Polish Combat
replicate the Panther II’s special Team (‘Skalski’s Circus’), North
design. They’ll need very precise Africa 1943 (the kit’s box-art
applications of liquid cement subject and also one of the
to remain workable but are schemes offered in Tamiya’s 1:32
beautifully detailed. Another kit), ‘EN133’ 611 Squadron, Biggin
neat inclusion is a choice of Hill early 1943, ‘EN568’ of Wing
main gun barrels – plus mantlets Commander Alan C Deere, Co
and turret faceplates – allowing Biggin Hill, June 1943, ‘EN354’
differing sub-variants to be of 1st Lieutenant V Helton,
represented. The model comes 52nd Fighter Group, 4th Fighter
with photo-etched mesh engine Squadron, La Sebala Airfield,
screens, separately moulded Tunisia, June 1943 and ‘BS392’
engine access hatch and also an of Squadron Leader Bernard
individual driver’s compartment Dupérier, CO of 340 Squadron
roof with hatches and inner Biggin Hill Autumn 1942. Three of
props. The pioneer tools mostly the schemes are green/grey and
come with their clamps moulded two are Mediterranean Scheme
in (a couple have PE parts here), colours so there’s plenty of
but the separate upper-hull variation in finishes on offer. As
front frames are a nice touch. this is a ProfiPACK
An impressively executed kit edition, we are treated to
all round, and a must-have for Eduard’s superb PE sheet and
Panther addicts. canopy masks too.
Great attention to detail Little to add about the
has been paid here, and quality of the kit; it’s
the optional guns are an superb. The new decals
attractive inclusion offer the modeller some
appealing options
The tracks are complex
and involve lots of small Errm, no criticism worth a
parts! mention here!
sales@redfroghobbies.com
www.redfroghobbies.com
SWEDISH ODDB
Mattias Ärletun describes how to get the
best from Pilot Replica's 1:48 Saab J 21A-3
THE KIT
The Pilot Replicas Saab
J 21A-3 was released in
2015 as the company’s
debut kit and comprises
around eighty-five parts
in grey and clear injection
moulded styrene as well as
a photo-etch fret containing
eleven parts. The surface
detail is excellent with
subtle recessed riveting
and panel lines, as well as
fine raised detail where
appropriate. The plastic
feels almost like a hybrid
between styrene and resin
and some of the mouldings,
for example the landing
gear struts and several
cockpit parts, are absolutely
exquisite. The kit seems
very well researched and
the instructions and colour/
markings guide are printed
on thick glossy paper,
adding to the quality feel
of the kit. A decal sheet
printed by Cartograf,
containing markings for
three different aircraft, is
the icing on the cake. U
TMMI 261 July 2017 53
The cockpit
sub-assembly
comprises
twenty-one
parts, including
photo-etched
seat belts
Instrument dial
The instructions suggest the entire
decals from Airscale
cockpit be painted with Tamiya
were used, creating a
XF-61 Dark Green, but several
suitably busy look
different variations of green were
used to form shading and highlights
The injection-moulded exhausts are not a the best part of this kit, so the
A view into the forward undercarriage author replaced them with Pilot Replica’s own cast resin upgrade parts,
bay, revealing some light weathering seen above during the painting and weathering processes
V THE BUILD was going to be very visible look to them and are just as instructions. 2: Replace the
When the Editor asked me through the large open sublime. I added brake lines exhaust stacks. 3: Replace
to build this kit I realised sections of the cockpit made from lead wire to the the kit propeller with similar
that during my thirty glazing. Details were brush fork-shaped main gear legs, but more crisply moulded
years of building models, I painted with Vallejo Model taking care to make two one from another kit. I
had never built a Swedish Color and after sealing identical sets rather than found a fishing lead weight
aircraft or even an aircraft everything with a coat of two mirrored ones, as per on with suitable dimensions,
in Swedish Air Force service, Alclad II Aquagloss I gave the real aircraft. All three weighing at least twice as
despite me being a citizen the cockpit an oil paint gear legs were painted the much as in the recommen-
of that very country. Well, colour-wash with 502 suggested Tamiya XF-66 dations and forged it to fit
about time then… Abteilung Starship Filth. Light Grey, over a base of inside the empty area in the
Unsurprisingly, The main cockpit parts Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black nose of the aircraft. The lump
construction starts with the then need very careful and then highlighted with a of lead was then secured onto
cockpit which consists of dry-fitting and light sanding drop of flat white added to the ‘roof’ of the nose wheel
twenty-one parts, including to fully line up and I suggest the Light Grey. bay with super glue.
some very nice photo-etched taking your time when The main wheels are
seat belts for the ejection gluing these parts together a very distinct detail on REPLACING THE
seat. Detail is very good since the tolerances in this the J 21, looking almost EXHAUST STACKS
straight from the box but area are very fine and any tractor-like with a very The injection-moulded
as the glass for the reflector misalignment will greatly pronounced tread pattern exhaust stacks are not a
gun sight is moulded in affect the fit of the fuselage on the tyres to be able to highlight of this kit and I
solid grey plastic, I chose halves later. cope with snowy or muddy do recommend buying Pilot
to replace it with a piece of conditions on rough airfields. Replicas’ own resin exhaust
clear acetate sheet tinted UNDERCARRIAGE Pilot Replicas have captured manifold (No.48-R-012)
with Tamiya X-25 Clear With the cockpit ready, I this detail very well and all as they represent a huge
Green. The instrument turned my attention to the three wheels are moulded as enhancement over the kit
panel is beautiful but would landing gear. The parts weighted. After painting the ones. The exhausts were
have benefited from a making them up are some of tyres in XF-85 I added some primed with Badger Stynylrez
decal for the dials. I added the better injection moulded dust-coloured Mig pigments grey primer and then sprayed
instrument dial decals from styrene pieces I have ever to the tread and rubbed some with Vallejo Metal Color
Airscale instead, making for seen and since the gear legs black pigment onto the areas Exhaust Manifold (77.723)
a suitably busy look. are very tall and prominent of the parts of the tread in and Jet Exhaust (77.713) in
The kit instructions call on the finished model, I’m contact with the ground. random patterns.
for almost the entire cockpit glad Pilot Replicas put so Early on in the build Following the instructions
to be painted Tamiya XF-61 much effort into them. I chose I decided I would have on the Pilot Replicas
Dark Green, but I used not to use the photo-etched to do the following three website I then thinned out
several different variants scissor links for the landing things before closing up the the plastic from the inside,
of green as shades and gear oleos however, since fuselage halves: 1: Add more in the forward section of
highlights to add more the plastic ones have a nose weight than the 20 the slots for the exhausts.
interest to an area I knew more three-dimensional grams recommended in the Cyano acrylate was then the
weapon of choice to secure necessary. The fit is very open several times. After with each other, with the
the exhausts to the kit precise but I had to sand having switched to Tamiya wings and getting the fins
plastic after having carefully off some plastic on the rear Limonene Cement instead, to align vertically. Oh, and
aligned them. To protect cockpit bulkhead (kit part the problem was solved. The don’t forget to attach the
them during the rest of the No.1) to the right and left of main gear bays were painted one-piece elevator between
build I made some paper the ejection seat headrest for Vallejo Aluminium (77.701) the fins or you will be in a
covers for them to be on the everything to fit right. The and weathered with oils and world of hurt… The booms
safe side. wings consist of a one-piece pigments to tone them down. needed some filler where
lower wing section and The rear join between they attach to the fairings
PROPS separate starboard and port the wing section and the moulded in the lower wing
Replacing the kit prop upper wings. The lower wing fuselage pod left a bit to be and also where they join the
was another story, since on my kit was a bit warped desired and I had to use wing trailing edge.
propellers in pusher- but after securing the big some filler to make a smooth At this stage I painted
configuration are pretty piece to a flat surface and transition between the two. the reflectors of the landing
hard to come by. After much pouring near-boiling hot Having twin tail booms lights and glued their
thought, I figured a rebuilt water onto it, it regained the on a scale aircraft model protective clear styrene
Messerschmitt Bf 109 prop correct shape. always presents a bit of a ‘glass’ covers on with CA
would do. My kind friend challenge and care needs to glue (after having coated the
– and fellow contributor to
TMMI – Jan Abrahamsson,
ASSEMBLING THE BOOMS
The twin tail booms are a
be taken to align the booms clear plastic with Aquagloss U
came to the rescue and sent simple affair but I decided to
me two propellers from an deviate from the instructions
Eduard Bf109 kit to choose and leave all three landing
from. I separated the blades gear struts off until later
on the chosen prop with instead of attaching them at
a razor saw and altered this stage, to avoid breaking
the pitch of them to match them off when handling
the kit ones. They were the model. I’m not sure if I
an absolute pain to glue forgot to clean the mating
back again but they finally surfaces of the booms before
succumbed to lots of Bondic gluing them together, but
glue and profanities. the Tamiya Extra Thin
In preparation of gluing Cement I used failed to
the fuselage halves together, form a lasting bond between The cockpit halves are brought together, sandwiching the internal
careful test-fitting is them and the seams split structures. The gaps closed up successfully once cemented
Here we can see that truly odd airframe coming together. To bring the boom halves together, the author used Tamiya Limonene Cement which worked better
with Pilot Replica’s plastic. Some filler was also needed where the booms joined the wings. Don’t forget the empennage while assembling the airframe!
A coat of matt varnish restored the correct The national insignia were toned
finish for the airframe down slightly, using coloured pencils
After having given hour and creates a rock extremely realistic. The green convincing.
the Mr Hobby paint the hard and very shiny surface paint used by the Swedish The blue and yellow of
customary several days to for the decals to adhere to. Air Force during this period the Swedish Air Force
harden I used white-tack The decal sheet is one of the seems to have been quite roundels – although correct
to mask the demarcation many highlights of this kit; resistant to weathering so I in colour – stood out far too
line between the upper and well researched, printed by had to restrain myself from much for my taste against
lower camouflage colours Cartograf and of course in going to town on it. Instead, the rest of the model so I
and masked the rest of the perfect register, the decals to break up the green camo set about fading them using
undersides with tape since settle down into all panel a bit, I used the silver pencil white (for the yellow) and
I didn’t want to risk any lines, rivets and over raised to add micro-chipping to light blue aquarelle pencils
accidental overspray when detail with the help of some every single rivet (except on from Koh-I-Noor. The end
airbrushing the tail booms. Micro Sol or Mr. Mark Softer. the decals) and also to areas result is a sun-bleached
where wear and tear would appearance that looks far
OVERALL GREEN WEATHERING THE AIRFRAME occur. Chipping all the rivets more realistic and pleasing
When choosing the green I treated the top surfaces of might not sound like the most to my eyes. Everything was
colour for upper surfaces of the model with a 'Starship realistic thing to do, but the then sealed with another
the model I again deviated
from the instructions
Filth' oil wash and the
grey undersides with a
overall impression is very coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish. U
and instead of using the mix of Starship Filth and
suggested XF-61 as the Engine Grease and now
overall colour only used it to all the magnificent surface
pre-shade all the panel lines detail on this kit could be
and some rivet lines. Mr fully appreciated. Simply
Hobby H309 Green applied gorgeous! I also made sure
in several thin layers gave to add oil and dirt streaks,
me the effect and tone I especially under the fuselage
was after, with the green pod and around the gear
pre-shading showing wells. When the oils had
through very subtly. been sealed with matt
Fast-forward a couple of varnish I subjected all lower
days and the entire model surfaces to micro-chipping
was read for a generous coat where appropriate, done
of Aquagloss in preparation with a Bruynzeel 3B pencil.
for the decals. Aquagloss This treatment takes She’s nearly there! Final details are being Pilot Replicas also make this
hardens in less than an forever but if done right, looks added, always a tense time with any model excellent resin figure
V THE FINAL ASSEMBLY syringe made for a new pitot then scratched and chipped THE CONCLUSIONS
The masking tape was now tube. The corresponding with a toothpick and a stiff I get the feeling that the
removed from all the clear injection moulded kit parts brush after having activated people at Pilot Replicas
parts and to with great unfortunately lack detail and the Scratches Effects layer really wanted to get this
relief I noticed no paint definition and I recommend by brushing on some water. model right and they
leaks or other mistakes on swapping them out for better Rust and dust pigments certainly did their homework
them. The builder has the alternatives. The final parts were fixed to the tow bar when designing the kit.
option to add photo-etched to go on were the propeller/ and a lead pencil was used While not perfect, the pros
frames to the insides of the spinner assembly, the to add exposed metal where by far outweigh the cons.
open sections of the cockpit ladder and the photo-etched appropriate. Any twin-boom aircraft
glazing. These fiddly parts antenna protruding from the I then found a thick, poses a challenge both
have to be bent so their starboard boom just in front square oak board that I had during the construction and
curvature matches that of of the landing gear, with saved for many years and painting stages and this one
the clear parts. Not an easy dark 0.1mm fishing line for its dimensions were just is no exception. However,
task, but by using UV-curing antenna wire. right for the J 21 and the with a methodical approach
Bondic glue to spot-weld accessories. I glued a cork and a bit of patience the
them on and then Aquagloss THE EXTRAS mat onto the board, divided modeller will be rewarded
as an effective non-fogging Besides sending me this it diagonally, smeared a with a highly detailed
glue I managed to get them kit, the Editor also provided layer of fine furniture filler replica of an unusual and
in place eventually. The me with two of Pilot on one half and glued a rather colourful aircraft,
open sections provide an Replicas’ own aftermarket mix of Woodland Scenics without even adding any
excellent view of the cockpit additions; a triangular tow static grass, GaleForce aftermarket items (although
and really make all the time bar (48-R-006, made up of Nine flocking and Army I do recommend getting
spent detail-painting the three resin parts and three Painter grass tufts on the the resin exhausts). The
cockpit worth while. beautiful turned brass rods) other half. The slabs of the model also stands out in
I was worried that the and a resin pilot figure concrete half were scribed any collection with its very
landing gear legs that were (48P010). I primed the tow with a model saw, using a high stance, tricycle landing
left off when constructing bar, shot it with yellow, steel ruler as a guide and gear and unconventional
the tail booms would be masked off 6mm wide then painted with various layout and makes for a good
hard to attach later and sections with Tamiya tape grey Tamiya colours. The conversation piece. ●
prone to breaking off, but and airbrushed two layers of different colours of the grass
again Bondic came to the Ammo of Mig A.MIG-2010 half were blended together AVAILABILITY;
rescue and made both the Scratches Effects over the with green and brown Mig Pilot Replicas models and
main gear and the nose gear exposed sections. Pigments and a few flower accessories are widely
surprisingly sturdy. The These were then painted tufts – also from Army available from good model
20mm cannon muzzle was over with a couple of thin Painter – added to break up shops and online.
replaced with an old Karaya coats of Tamiya XF-1 Flat all the green. www.pilot-replicas.com
.50cal barrel and a cut-off black and the black was
1:24 No 3930
scale échelle model kit modèle réduit
1401 Harrier GR.3 1:72 6538 90mm Gun Motor Carriage M36B1 1:35
28 mm
scale èchelle
1:56
Super decals sheet for 5 versions 3 1 1
Ask your local distributor or contact: Italeri S.p.A.- via Pradazzo, 6/b 40012 - Calderara di Reno - Bologna - Italy - Phone +39 051 31 75 211 - email: italeri@italeri.com
Book Reviews
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REVISED EDITION
HOW TO BUILD... HOW TO BUILD...
The Steel Wheeled Tiger I Tamiya’s 1:32 Mosquito FB.IV
by Angus Creighton by Brett Green
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64 July 2017 TMMI 261
SONDERKRAFTFAHRZEUG!
Tamiya's still-excellent 1:35
Sd.Kfz.222 gets a camo coat
THE X-FILES
Special Hobby's X-15 in 1:32, full-build
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L
o.u
H EE
k
THE SIX-W
WONDER RET URNS!
T
dels of the
re-launch three mo
amiya’s decision to d Fo rm ula 1 car
4 six-wheele
famous Tyrrell P-3 de ller s, and
ll received by mo
has been very we io- co ntr olled kit , the 1:12
0 rad
by me too. The 1:1 are all on their wa
y
l and 1:20 release
‘Big Series’ mode -et ch ed de tailed
o coming with photo
back, the latter tw ed plastic parts.
en t the mo uld
to supplem k part and
the original car too
It’s forty years since ce leb rat es this. Tamiya
kits
the re-issue of the on exhibit
ple of the real car
even put an exam a Ho bb y
s Shizuok
on during this year’ re - it still looks
n se e he
Show, as we ca
is surely the most
extraordinary and
memorab le Fo rm ula 1 car ever. Keep
s
reading TM MI in the coming month
on an d ful l-buil ds
for more informati
on this subject! ●
Editor's Choice
MISSION MODELS POLYURETHANE MIX ADDITIVE
www.missionmodelsus.com
I have been using this material for some weeks now and it has some useful qualities.
When added to Mission Models’ own acrylic paint brand when airbrushing, it slows
the drying of the paint enough to allow a wet layer to form, letting the paint level
itself. This means that the thousands of tiny droplets that have landed on the model’s
surface merge into each other forming an continuous skin, greatly reducing the
grainy appearance that model paints can sometimes leave. The material can also be
used as a gloss-coat for decalling.
See you again next time