Assembly Guide

Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and
cutting guide; finishing instructions for skirt and dress
M P

Patterns & Templates Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening
Gown skirt embroidery template
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013, ISSUE #150
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree
template

Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates

ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE 1a 1"

1b
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
1c
additional ½-inch fold in 2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam left bodice back along
1d 1e 1f 1g 1h

PATTERN PRINTOUT
place. Start measuring to mark allowance. Stitch a second center-back line.
SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS pleats from that point. On left time ¼ inch away in seam 3. Make one horizontal
skirt back, start measuring for allowance and trim all layers buttonhole on each cuff in
pleats at finished placket close to second stitching line. marked position. Use ‘Stitch ‘n
Patterns & Templates
0 1" SKIRT BACK PLACKET other side, increasing stitch allowance. Press encased
Please use this scale to verify 1. Fold skirt back in half and length to 1.5 and keeping seams toward skirt back. edge. 3. Fold under ½-inch on Tear as above. Stitch a button
that you are printing at 100% 2. Use pins to mark beginning lower edge of bodice lining in place in corresponding
mark a 4-inch line down seam allowance at 1⁄8 inch When working with silk, it is
center back. Cut one (fig. 2). helpful to use a zigzag stitch point and end point of each and press. Hand sew bodice position on underlay side of
2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l) 4. Press under ¼ inch on (W=2.0; L=1.5) for first pleat. Pins pleats securely in lining in place encasing seam cuff.
rectangle of fusible interfacing. remaining placket edge. Press stitching pass to help reduce place. Depending on size, it allowance. Lower raw edge of 4. Hand tack center point of
Oct./ Nov. 2013, Issue #150 Fuse to wrong side of skirt seam allowance toward possibility of raveling. may be necessary to adjust front inset is also folded an 18-inch length of
back directly over marked placket. two pleats closest to side under and encased in this 5⁄8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon
Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and cutting guide; seam. to bottom of “V” on front

1 | When preparing to print

slash line. Slash along line 5. Place folded edge of SOFT PLEATING SKIRT seams up or down a bit in
finishing instructions for skirt and dress
through both fabric and fused placket just over seamline FRONT AND BACK depth. Use bodice front and inset.
Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening Gown skirt
embroidery template interfacing. This helps stabilize from Step 3. Working from TIP: The silk dupioni does not bodice back pattern pieces to HEM FINISH 5. Stitch a 1-inch
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree template placket area especially when wrong side, topstitch right gather up very nicely across check that finished pleated NOTE: The 1-inch tuck, mother-of-pearl button (with
Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates working with silk (fig. 1). next to folded placket edge the width. While the skirt can width of skirt front and two machine-sewn hem requires a large open holes) in place
Happy Scarecrows by Gwen Milner: Step-by-step cable count 2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x through all layers (fig. 3). be gathered and attached to skirt backs will fit actual 6-inch hem allowance. over hand-tacked ribbon.
8½ inches (l). 6. Flip placket to inside with the bodice, I chose an bodice. Try to force last pleat 1. Fold under 4 inches on 6. Draw ends of ribbon
Small Large
3. Right sides together and right sides of placket facing alternate method of soft closest to side seam on all lower edge of skirt; press. through holes of the button
working with skirt side up, together. Stitch diagonally pleating the skirt to fit the pieces to end at side seamline Fold under ¼-inch along raw and tie in a bow.

the PDF, make sure that you

straight stitch (L=1.5) placket across lower end of placket bodice, eliminating the need of bodice even if it makes it hem edge, machine stitch 1⁄8
to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam (fig. 4). for gathers. necessary to adjust depth of inch from top edge of hem.
allowance. When you get to 7. Fold under an additional ½ 1. Refer to skirt pleating last one or two pleats closest 2. Fold under hem again, this
within 1 inch from lowest inch on right side (only) of templates (found on to side seams. Soft pleating is time 4¾ inches; press. To
slash point, decrease stitch skirt placket. This additional centerfold) to mark skirt front, not an exact science – don’t form tuck, stitch 1 inch from
length to 1.0 and allow skirt fold realigns center back of right skirt back (lap side), and worry if all the pleats are not folded edge. The raw edge of
seam allowance to decrease skirt to center back of bodice. left skirt back (under lap side) a perfect uniform depth. The hem is encased in this tuck.
down to almost nothing at for soft pleating. All pleats lace/organza belt covers over Press tuck down toward lower

are printing it at 100% and

lowest slash point. Keeping SKIRT SIDE SEAMS fold away from center front or seamline between bodice and edge of skirt.
sewing machine needle down, French seam skirt front to center back. On skirt back, skirt.
pivot slightly at lowest slash skirt back taking out a total of keep right skirt back placket 3. Finished pleated dress front FINISHING UP
point and proceed stitching up 3⁄8 inch for each seam pinned in place with and dress back. 1. Make four horizontal
buttonholes on right bodice
ATTACHING SKIRT TO back in marked positions. Use
A. Fold ¼” under BODICE a piece of Stitch ‘n Tear held
Placket Flip placket to inside,
A. Mark RS together 1. Right sides together and on backside of fabric for
Stitch raw edges even, pin pleated stability when stitching

that there is no scaling. Check

B. Fold edge skirt to bodice, matching buttonholes. Remove Stitch n’
Skirt 5”
back
Skirt Skirt
just over
seamline
center fronts, side seams and Tear when buttonholes are
WS back
B. Stitch
back Pivot
WS Stitch diagonally
finished placket edges to completed. Cut buttonholes
WS slightly
and slash C. Topstitch across lower end foldlines on bodice backs. open.
right next to Skirt
2” edge Take care to keep bodice 2. Stitch size 18 buttons to
lining out of way. corresponding positions of
FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4

the settings for page scaling 2a 2b 2c 2d 2e 2f 2g 2h

(should be “None”) and check

the preview to make sure that
you will be printing at full size.
Make sure that the box labeled
“Auto-Rotate and Center” is
unchecked (instructions apply 3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f 3g 3h

specifically to Adobe Reader;

if using another PDF reader,
check for similar settings).
2 | To ensure that the pattern
has printed at the correct scale,
check the size of the SCALE 4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f 4g 4h

DIAGRAM. It should measure

1" × 1".
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
54” Wide Silk Organza
54” width

20” 7” 7” 7” 7”
Inset

Inset

Inset

Inset
12”

12”

12”

12”

Collar
16”

Block
Belt
2” 2”

3 | To begin assembling the

Belt
Belt Belt
2”
10 3/4 ”

Sash
selvage

selvage

pattern, cut off or fold the

10 3/4 ”

Sash

dotted margin around each

Sl

Sl
ee Bias

ee Bias
ve

ve
on

on

page. 5a LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE

YARDAGE & CUTTING GUIDE
5b
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
45” Wide Cranberry Silk Dupioni
45” width 5c 5d 5e 5f 5g 5h

4 | The pages are numbered in

45-inch Silk Dupioni Silk Dupioni Yardage Skirt
Front
Skirt Front and Back Dress 31.5
Cut Two: 45” (115cm) Fabric W/WO Nap
Size 4 – 26-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 4 = 3 YD (2.8 M)
Size 5 – 27 ½ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 5 = 3-1/8 YD (2.9 M)
Size 6 - 29-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 6 = 3-1/4 YD (3 M)
Size 7 – 30 ¼ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 7 = 3-3/8 YD (3.1 M)

rows, so the first row of pages

Size 8 – 31 ½-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 8 = 31/2 YD (3.2 M)

Skirt Placket – 8 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)

Sleeve Plackets – 6 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w) Skirt

31.5 Front
Piping bias – 14-inch (l) x 1-inch (w)
selvage

selvage

is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc.

54-inch Ecru Silk Organza

Sashes
Cut two: Bodice Bodice Cut
14” Back Back
Size 4 – 36 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w) Skirt
Placket
Size 5 – 37 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w) &

Line up the rows and match

Size 6 – 38 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w) Sleeve
Size 7 – 39 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w) Plackets
Size 8 – 40 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w) 14” Bodice Bodice
here
Front Front

Collar Block – 16-inch (l) x 20-inch (w)

3” Cuff Cuff Cuff Cuff
Cut four:
Inset Block – 12-inch (l) x 7-inch (w)

the dotted lines together so

Cut four:
Sl n Bi

Sl n Bi
ee as

ee
O

23”
Front Belt Block– 2-inch (l) x 18-inch (w)
ve

ve
as

Bi ng
pi
as
Pi

they overlap. Tape the pages

together. Use the illustrated
guide to match each piece.
Once the pattern is complete,
find your size, pin the pattern
to the fabric, and follow the
coordinating line to cut out or
trace the pattern.

© SEW BEAUTIFUL Please respect the copyright by not

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. sewbeautifulmag.com
1a 1"

Patterns & Templates

0 1"
Please use this scale to verify
that you are printing at 100%

Oct./ Nov. 2013, Issue #150

Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Pattern, layout and yardage charts and cutting guide;
finishing instructions for skirt and dress
Mastering Wendy’s Madeira Hem by Wendy Schoen: Ethereal Christening Gown skirt
embroidery template
Appliquéd Heirloom Christmas Tree by Trisha Smith: Christmas tree template
Elegant Leaf Table Runner by Patty Dunn: Table runner and leaf templates
Happy Scarecrows by Gwen Milner: Step-by-step cable count
1b
LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS
SKIRT BACK PLACKET
1. Fold skirt back in half and
mark a 4-inch line down
center back. Cut one
2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l)
rectangle of fusible interfacing.
Fuse to wrong side of skirt
back directly over marked
slash line. Slash along line
through both fabric and fused
interfacing. This helps stabilize
placket area especially when
working with silk (fig. 1).
2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x
8½ inches (l).
3. Right sides together and
working with skirt side up,
straight stitch (L=1.5) placket
to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam
allowance. When you get to
within 1 inch from lowest
slash point, decrease stitch
length to 1.0 and allow skirt
seam allowance to decrease
down to almost nothing at
lowest slash point. Keeping
sewing machine needle down,
pivot slightly at lowest slash
point and proceed stitching up
other side, increasing stitch
length to 1.5 and keeping
seam allowance at 1⁄8 inch
(fig. 2).
4. Press under ¼ inch on
remaining placket edge. Press
seam allowance toward
placket.
5. Place folded edge of
placket just over seamline
from Step 3. Working from
wrong side, topstitch right
next to folded placket edge
through all layers (fig. 3).
6. Flip placket to inside with
right sides of placket facing
together. Stitch diagonally
across lower end of placket
(fig. 4).
7. Fold under an additional ½
inch on right side (only) of
skirt placket. This additional
fold realigns center back of
skirt to center back of bodice.
SKIRT SIDE SEAMS
French seam skirt front to
skirt back taking out a total of
3⁄8 inch for each seam
allowance. Press encased
seams toward skirt back.
When working with silk, it is
helpful to use a zigzag stitch
(W=2.0; L=1.5) for first
stitching pass to help reduce
possibility of raveling.
SOFT PLEATING SKIRT
FRONT AND BACK
TIP: The silk dupioni does not
gather up very nicely across
the width. While the skirt can
be gathered and attached to
the bodice, I chose an
alternate method of soft
pleating the skirt to fit the
bodice, eliminating the need
for gathers.
1. Refer to skirt pleating
templates (found on
centerfold) to mark skirt front,
right skirt back (lap side), and
left skirt back (under lap side)
for soft pleating. All pleats
fold away from center front or
center back. On skirt back,
keep right skirt back placket
pinned in place with

A. Fold ¼” under
Placket Flip placket to inside,
A. Mark RS together
Stitch

Skirt B. Fold edge

5” just over
back Skirt
WS Skirt seamline
back Pivot back
B. Stitch WS slightly WS Stitch diagonally
and slash C. Topstitch across lower end
right next to Skirt
2” edge

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4

1c
additional ½-inch fold in
place. Start measuring to mark
pleats from that point. On left
skirt back, start measuring for
pleats at finished placket
edge.
2. Use pins to mark beginning
point and end point of each
pleat. Pins pleats securely in
place. Depending on size, it
may be necessary to adjust
two pleats closest to side
seams up or down a bit in
depth. Use bodice front and
bodice back pattern pieces to
check that finished pleated
width of skirt front and two
skirt backs will fit actual
bodice. Try to force last pleat
closest to side seam on all
pieces to end at side seamline
of bodice even if it makes it
necessary to adjust depth of
last one or two pleats closest
to side seams. Soft pleating is
not an exact science – don’t
worry if all the pleats are not
a perfect uniform depth. The
lace/organza belt covers over
seamline between bodice and
skirt.
3. Finished pleated dress front
and dress back.
ATTACHING SKIRT TO
BODICE
1. Right sides together and
raw edges even, pin pleated
skirt to bodice, matching
center fronts, side seams and
finished placket edges to
foldlines on bodice backs.
Take care to keep bodice
lining out of way.
2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam left bodice back along
allowance. Stitch a second center-back line.
time ¼ inch away in seam 3. Make one horizontal
allowance and trim all layers buttonhole on each cuff in
close to second stitching line. marked position. Use ‘Stitch ‘n
3. Fold under ½-inch on Tear as above. Stitch a button
lower edge of bodice lining in place in corresponding
and press. Hand sew bodice position on underlay side of
lining in place encasing seam cuff.
allowance. Lower raw edge of 4. Hand tack center point of
front inset is also folded an 18-inch length of
under and encased in this 5⁄8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon
seam. to bottom of “V” on front
inset.
HEM FINISH 5. Stitch a 1-inch
NOTE: The 1-inch tuck, mother-of-pearl button (with
machine-sewn hem requires a large open holes) in place
6-inch hem allowance. over hand-tacked ribbon.
1. Fold under 4 inches on 6. Draw ends of ribbon
lower edge of skirt; press. through holes of the button
Fold under ¼-inch along raw and tie in a bow.
hem edge, machine stitch 1⁄8
inch from top edge of hem.
2. Fold under hem again, this
time 4¾ inches; press. To
form tuck, stitch 1 inch from
folded edge. The raw edge of
hem is encased in this tuck.
Press tuck down toward lower
edge of skirt.
FINISHING UP
1. Make four horizontal
buttonholes on right bodice
back in marked positions. Use
a piece of Stitch ‘n Tear held
on backside of fabric for
stability when stitching
buttonholes. Remove Stitch n’
Tear when buttonholes are
completed. Cut buttonholes
open.
2. Stitch size 18 buttons to
corresponding positions of
1d
1e
1f
1g

Small Large
1h
2a
2b
2c
2d
2e
2f
2g
2h
3a
3b
3c
3d
3e
3f
3g
3h
4a
4b

Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout

54” Wide Silk Organza
54” width

20” 7” 7” 7” 7”
Inset

Inset

Inset

Inset
12”

12”

12”

12”
Collar
16”

Block
Belt
2” 2”

Belt
Belt Belt
2”
10 3/4 ”

Sash
selvage

selvage
10 3/4 ”

Sash
Sl Bi

Sl
ee as

ee Bias
ve

ve
on

on
4c
4d
4e
4f
4g
4h
5a LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE
YARDAGE & CUTTING GUIDE

45-inch Silk Dupioni Silk Dupioni Yardage

Skirt Front and Back Dress
Cut Two: 45” (115cm) Fabric W/WO Nap
Size 4 – 26-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 4 = 3 YD (2.8 M)
Size 5 – 27 ½ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 5 = 3-1/8 YD (2.9 M)
Size 6 - 29-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 6 = 3-1/4 YD (3 M)
Size 7 – 30 ¼ -inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 7 = 3-3/8 YD (3.1 M)
Size 8 – 31 ½-inches (l) x 44-inches (w) 8 = 31/2 YD (3.2 M)

Skirt Placket – 8 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)

Sleeve Plackets – 6 ½-inch (l) x 1 ¾-inch (w)

Piping bias – 14-inch (l) x 1-inch (w)

54-inch Ecru Silk Organza

Sashes
Cut two:
Size 4 – 36 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 5 – 37 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 6 – 38 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 7 – 39 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)
Size 8 – 40 -inches (l) x 10 ¾-inches (w)

Collar Block – 16-inch (l) x 20-inch (w)

Cut four:
Inset Block – 12-inch (l) x 7-inch (w)

Cut four:
Front Belt Block– 2-inch (l) x 18-inch (w)
5b
Lacy Sailor Dress - Cutting Layout
45” Wide Cranberry Silk Dupioni
45” width

Skirt
31.5 Front

Skirt
31.5 Front
selvage

selvage

Bodice Bodice Cut

14” Back Back Skirt
Placket
&
Sleeve
Plackets
14” Bodice Bodice
here
Front Front

3” Cuff Cuff Cuff Cuff

Sl n B

Sl n B
ee ias

ee ias
O

23”
ve

ve

Bi ing
p
as
Pi
5c
5d
5e
5f
5g
5h