Cyan Magenta Yellow Black

Copyright © 2011 by

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Potter Craft, an imprint

of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.,
New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
wwww.pottercraft.com

POTTER CRAFT and colophon is a registered trademark

of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

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Abousteit, Nora.
The BurdaStyle sewing handbook / by Nora Abousteit
with Alison Kelly. — 1st ed.
p. cm.
1. Dressmaking. 2. Sewing. I. BurdaStyle, Inc. II. Title.
TT515.A26 2011
646.4—dc22
2011005693
ISBN: 978-0-307-58674-2
Printed in China

Design by Jenny Kraemer

Photography by Isabel Asha Penzlien and Tory Williams
Illustrations by Laura Trevino and Rachel Rymar
Technical writing by Diane Gilleland

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

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CONTENTS
Introduction 7

C H APT E R 1
getting started 9

C H APT E R 2
using patterns 29

C H APT E R 3
let’s start sewing 51

C H APT E R 4
the skirt 69

C H APT E R 5
the blouse 87

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C H APT E R 6
the dress 113

C H APT E R 7
the coat 141

C H APT E R 8
the bag 171

Resources 196
Glossary 198
Acknowledgments 201
About the Authors 202
About BurdaStyle.com 203
Credits 204
Index 205

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6

INTRODUCTION
How many times have you tried on a piece of clothing you loved
but the fit was off? Or fell in love with a high-end garment well
out of your price range? Or had a vision of the perfect outfit but
couldn’t find it in stores?
The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook, conceived by Nora
Abousteit and coauthored by creative director Alison Kelly,
showcases an eclectic mix of adaptable sewing projects that
embody the quintessence of the BurdaStyle philosophy. We
want this book to serve as the new bible for aspiring fashion
designers, sewing enthusiasts, and motivated DIYers. Packed
with easy-to-follow tutorials and instructional sewing projects,
this book gives you the basic building blocks to begin sewing
and the tools you need to move beyond the basics to designing
and customizing your own wardrobe.
When we launched BurdaStyle in 2007, it was our mission to
create an all-encompassing resource for the fashion and sewing
communities. We saw a gap and we filled it. Before BurdaStyle
there were few places to go for ideas, tutorials, open discus-
sion and, most important, cutting-edge copyright-free sewing
patterns. Sewing (and its sister crafts) was considered by many
to be outdated, something our mothers and grandmothers did
that may have kept us warm in holiday-themed sweaters but
certainly didn’t serve the demands of our constantly evolving
sense of style. The proliferation of the DIY philosophy and
the burgeoning popularity of shows like Project Runway have
encouraged people to reinvent this craft, and in response,
BurdaStyle has risen to the challenge of keeping pace with the
demands of this savvy audience.
Five years later, the popularity of the website has surpassed
all of our wildest dreams! Our community is made up of more
than half a million active members with more than 250 sewing
clubs throughout the world. The open-source approach invites
users of all skill levels to share their patterns, comments, and
expertise, encouraging others to recognize that creating fash-
ionable, custom-fitted clothing is often much easier than you
think. Some members even conduct virtual “sew-alongs” on
the site, where participants from all over the globe sew from the
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same pattern at the same time, sharing tips and suggestions.
We are constantly amazed at the creativity, individuality, and
versatility of this community.
Designed by BurdaStyle’s creative team under Alison’s
direction, the five paper patterns included in this book con-
stitute an interchangeable and fully customizable wardrobe of
skirt, blouse, dress, coat, and bag. Ten talented independent
designers and skilled BurdaStyle members were handpicked
to create variations based on those original designs—resulting
in the fifteen essential sewing projects you’ll find in the book.
Finally, sixty more BurdaStyle members offered up their own
interpretations of the patterns so that you can see how simple
adjustments such as changing the fabric or the shape of a
sleeve can lead to endless new design possibilities.
Are you someone who has always wanted to sew but never
took the time to learn? Use this book to bring your ideas to life.
Even if you have never threaded a needle or sewn a single stitch,
you’re in luck. This handbook contains everything a beginner
needs to know, from setting up a sewing space and identifying
the essential tools to making your first skirt. A glossary at the
back provides sewing terms you might not already be familiar
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with. And for you sewing experts out there, this book provides
insight into great techniques (like circular ruffles) and challenges
you to design your own pattern variations. Each project is rated
by skill level, from one to three buttons. One is beginner-friendly,
while three is for more experienced sewers. Whether you’re just
starting out or your closet is already full of your own handmade
clothing, this book will introduce you to new ideas.
People who sew know how good it feels to put on that new
dress they just finished; it is an empowering skill to conceive
and design your own look, to be able to say that you made
it yourself. We know this because of the hundreds of projects
enthusiastically uploaded to our site every month. Now we want
you to share in that same enthusiasm that so many of us cher-
ish. We hope that this book will further your passion for creating
and enable you to take the next step into the exciting world of
sewing and fashion design.
Introduction 7
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Ulla-Maaria Engestroem in her sewing

studio in Finland.

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chapter

1
GETTING
STARTED
Every time we see a great sewing space, we experience
a certain voyeuristic thrill. Oftentimes we’re amazed by
the clever use of space and savvy layouts many sewers
and designers have created for themselves in their studios, and we

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aren’t ashamed to admit to adopting some of their great ideas in our
very own sewing areas.
In many sewing rooms, you will find an arsenal of sewing tools,
supplies, and accessories. This chapter will introduce you to your new
accomplices in creating your very own customized wardrobe, and will
break down exactly what you’ll need to get started. If you’ve never even
touched a sewing machine, this section will provide you with enough
ammunition to begin with confidence.

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THE SEWING STUDIO
Over the years, Alison’s sewing spaces have progressed from
kitchen counters to shared art-school spaces, from windowless
closets to her current studio in the former maid’s quarters of
her home in Brooklyn. No matter where she’s setting up shop,
Alison’s sewing mantra is “clear the clutter” before you begin
a new project. We know not everybody has the extra space to
spread out, but really it’s the preparation that requires the most
space. Alison recommends delegating a large, flat surface for
transferring patterns and for cutting out pieces in fabric. When
it comes time to sew up your creation, you can get by with
setting up your sewing machine on a small desk or tabletop.
For sewing room “feng shui,” she urges you to put away any
other projects you’re working on in order to have a more fruitful
experience. Not only does this create a nice clean slate for you
10 The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook
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to begin with, but your focus will be on your current project,
which deserves your undivided attention.
Though it is not mandatory, having a space designated for
sewing can help you stay organized and better accomplish your
sewing projects from start to finish. If you don’t have the extra
space for your very own sewing room, don’t fret; you just need
to get creative.
Above: Hanging shelves, a thread rack, and pegboards attached
to the wall can make a small space feel larger while creating easy
access to your sewing tools and accessories. A clean, flat surface
makes for an ideal patternmaking and cutting table, and the
drawers can hide unwanted clutter.
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Baby bottles and old

jam jars make for the
perfect rickrack and
notions containers.

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BurdaStyle member Ophelia K’s
sewing supplies stash—old
shoeboxes—work great as storage
containers for all of her sewing needs.

Getting Started 11

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Scouring thrift
stores and flea
markets for vintage
sewing supplies can
add a retro touch to
your sewing space—
and get you some
good deals!
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Vintage jars and old

glass dishes make fun
storage vessels.

12 The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook

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“ Since I’m a beginner, I don’t have a lot

of supplies. I use a vintage desk and
a bookshelf for everything: fabric is in
neat stacks, notions are in a big salad
bowl, and tools go in the wrist drawer
of the desk.”
—IN DIAN A ADAM S, F OU N DER, ADORED AU ST IN
AN D M ADE T H IS / LOVE T H IS

“ My space generally becomes total chaos

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while I’m working on a project, but I do
make a point of putting everything back
when I’m finished, before I start on the
next project. And everything has a specific
place, so I don’t waste time looking for
something while I’m working—assuming
I’ve put it away and it’s not hiding under
a pattern piece or something.”
—LIESL GIBSON , DESIGN ER, OLIVER + S AN D LISET T E

Getting Started 13

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For starters, we recommend finding a clean, flat surface You’ll notice that most sewing machines have a little light
for tracing patterns and cutting out fabric, large enough to that turns on when your machine does to illuminate your
fit the pattern sheets included in this book. Many BurdaStyle stitches—but you’ll definitely need more light than that to sew.
members clear off their dining-room tables to spread out their A bright overhead light, desk lamp, or natural light will help you
sewing projects—this surface is ideal for transferring patterns see those tiny stitches and seam lines more clearly.
to paper and for laying out fabric for cutting. If you’re afraid of
damaging a nice tabletop, lay a cutting mat down on top of it or
on the floor, but look out for your spine. Alison once helped sew
Spread out your
part of a garment for a friend whose sewing machine was set up
patterns on a dining-
on her bedroom floor—by the time Alison was finished acting room or kitchen
as seamstress-cum-contortionist, her back was killing her! To table for a makeshift
patternmaking
save your spine, we highly recommend setting up your sewing studio.
machine on a desk or table and adjusting your seat so that your
arms are at a 90-degree angle to your body.
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14 The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook

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Getting Started 15

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