2020-02-01 Elle Canada PDF

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FEBRUARY 2020
PASSION PAY
The MYTH that’s
HOLDING BACK
your CAREER
JULIA
ROBERTS
On THE JOYS of FRIENDSHIP
& REDEFINING SUCCESS
WIDE AWAKE
Why ARE WE
still NOT
SLEEPING?
NEW
SPF 30 CREAM
acts on signs of aging
linked to the loss of collagen
TRIPLE ANTI-AGING EFFICACY.

WITH LINSEED EXTRACT.
RÉNERGIE LIFT
MULTI-ACTION ULTRA
visibly reduces fine lines -28% • firmer and more even skin tone in 4 weeks*
*
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o
FE BRUARY 2020
N 220
cover stories
44 HEALTH Have we become
obsessed with tracking our sleep?
BY JENNIFER GEORGE
58 CAREER Following your passion

is overrated. BY WING SZE TANG
78 CELEBRITY Julia Roberts is loving

life. BY STÉPHANIE CHAYET
style & fashion

20 STYLE NEWS Sheers for the new PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT. ON MODEL: LEATHER JACKET AND WOOL PANTS (KATHRYN BOWEN)
decade; plus, the sneakers you’ll
be begging to wear.
23 SHOPPING Pretty pastels and

preppy classics.
26 STYLE Cue up your fave ’80s

movie: The blazer is back.
BY LEANNE DELAP
30 SHOW NOTES L’Oréal Paris (and

its roster of celeb ambassadors)
takes over Paris’ oldest institution.
32 STYLE Tailoring 101. BY ERICA NGAO
86
86 FASHION A modern spin on
classic black and white.
98 FASHION These boots were made

for walking.
CONTENTS
98
beauty & wellness

36 BEAUTY NEWS It’s about time
you made retinoids your BFF.
38 THE EDIT The products we’re

coveting now.
39 BEAUTY Ashley Graham is a

Pretty Big Deal. BY LESA HANNAH
40 BEAUTY We’re all cleansing

incorrectly. BY LESA HANNAH
122 TRAVEL Heading out to the Wild

features West. BY AMANDA BLAKLEY
48 THE ELLE GUIDE Doing 124 DECOR Marble gets a hit of

PHOTOGRAPHY, VICTOR DEMARCHELIER. ON MODEL: SWEATER AND PANTS (BOTTEGA VENETA),
fragrance differently. colour. BY ERIN MCLAUGHLIN
64 TECHNOLOGY Canadian 127 LIFESTYLE Nomadic decor and

women making big moves in AI. the perfect mocktail.
68 LIFE How writer Heather O’Neill

realized it’s okay to cut off toxic
every month
family members. 9 BEHIND THE ISSUE
11 EDITOR’S NOTE
73 RELATIONSHIP When did we
12 FRONT ROW
become so scared of talking on
16 DEBUT
BOOTS (JESSIE WESTERN) AND HAT (CLYDE)
the phone? BY BRIONY SMITH

17 ELLE ONLINE the covers
Newsstand Julia Roberts is wearing a coat
108 TRAVEL Doing Jaipur like a royal. 24 THE FIND
by Max Mara, earrings by Chrome Hearts and
BY VICTORIA DIPLACIDO 128 HOROSCOPE rings and a necklace by Cartier. Subscriber
129 SHOPPING GUIDE Julia Roberts is wearing a dress by Brunello
113 TRAVEL NEWS The packing Cucinelli, earrings by Chrome Hearts and shoes
130 FINALE
essentials for your next trip. by Stella McCartney. Photography Tom Munro
Styling Isabel Dupré Makeup Genevieve Herr
114 TRAVEL Consider your honey- for Lancôme Hair Serge Normant Manicure
moon plans sorted. Christina Graci Styling assistant Nadia Beeman
8 ELLECANADA.COM
1 2
1. Model MARISHA were up to. Now that

URUSHADZE was a she’s grown, we share a
total pro on the New studio where she makes FEBRUARY 2020
York set of our black- art and I write. We do
and-white-themed shoot
“Polar Vision” (p. 86).
The Georgian model
loves creating characters
in her mind for each look
the same thing but a
grown-up version!”
4. Native Manitoban
CAITLIN AGNEW
Behind the Issue
she sports, showcasing played jet-setter for us
the creative spark she’s this month when she
had since she was young. travelled to L.A. to inter-
“As a kid, I used to imagine view Jennifer Aniston 3
that I was a dog and ran (“Debut,” p. 16)—and she 4
around on four legs,”she came back with a great
says. “I kind of wish I could story. “[Aniston] liked the
do that now.” Club Monaco earrings
I was wearing so much
2. If digital director that she reached out
VICTORIA DIPLACIDO and touched them!”
met the (honorary) says the writer, who now
monarch of Jaipur when lives in Toronto. “Now,
she travelled to India whenever someone
last year, that means the asks me about them, I
entire ELLE Canada have an excuse to talk
team is technically con- about my time with her.”
nected to royalty...right?
For her full report on 5. New editorial
what it’s like to stay in assistant MELISSA
an actual palace, head PERDIGAO has been
to page 108. obsessed with beauty
since she was a child. As 5
3. Montreal author the Torontonian tells it,
HEATHER O’NEILL she was just three years
TEXT, PATRICIA KAROUNOS; PHOTOGRAPHY, J. ARTACHO (H. O’NEILL)
gets personal in her essay old when she started

“Far From the Tree” (p. 68), scavenging for products
about growing up in a in her mom’s room. “I
toxic family. Today, O’Neill once locked myself in
has a tradition with her and sprayed out her
daughter that she holds entire bottle of Loulou
dear. “We used to bring by Cacharel, entranced
paper and pencil cray- by the scent,” she says.
ons to a café and draw “I still have a soft spot for
together when she was cheap ’80s fragrances.”
little,” she says. “People To read her picks for
would always come unique top notes to try this
and peek at what we year, head to page 48.
ELLECANADA.COM 9
PUBLISHER
Sophie Banford
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Vanessa Craft
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Annie Horth
ART DIRECTOR Jed Tallo
BEAUTY DIRECTOR Lesa Hannah
DIGITAL DIRECTOR Victoria DiPlacido
FASHION & MARKET EDITOR Elaine Jyll Regio
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Patricia Karounos
ASSISTANTS Erica Ngao (Fashion), Melissa Perdigao (Beauty), Christina Tourloukis
EDITORIAL PRODUCER Estelle Gervais
INTERN Laura Fishbaum
CONTRIBUTORS Caitlin Agnew, Nilo Akbari, Randi Bergman, Amanda Blakley, Owen Bruce, Stéphanie Chayet,
Sarah Daniel, Leanne Delap, Victor Demarchelier, Marjorie Dunham-Landry, Isabel Dupré, Jane Fielding, Joanna Fox,
Jennifer George, Royal Gilbert, Jenny Kennedy, Annie Labrecque, Erin McLaughlin, Tom Munro, Patricia Nagy,
Heather O’Neill, Rose Pereira, D. Picard, Ciara Rickard, Geoffrey Ross, Helena Scheffer, Briony Smith, Kate
Somerville, Wing Sze Tang, Jillian Vieira, Norman Wong, Arkan Zakharov
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Editor’s Note
Vanessa Craft
Editor-in-Chief
Follow me on Instagram and
PHOTOGRAPHY, NORMAN WONG; STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; MAKEUP, SABRINA RINALDI (P1M.CA); HAIR, MATTHEW LILL (P1M.CA).
Twitter @vanessacraft.
V. CRAFT IS WEARING A BLAZER BY DRIES VAN NOTEN (AT NORDSTROM), A TOP BY VINCE (AT ANDREWS) AND EARRINGS BY COS
I
LOVE A GOOD get-your-life-together-pep-talk it’s a misconception that once you find your passion, it’s smooth
Instagram post. One scroll past a comely pastel background sailing from there. Rather, it can be much the opposite, with a
with a quote in a calligraphy font and I’m double-tapping long road of training and apprenticeship, blurred boundaries
faster than you can say “We all have the same number of between home and work life thanks to “passion exploitation”
hours in a day as Beyoncé.” by employers and the normalization of a non-stop schedule.
Admittedly, I spend far more time taking screenshots of One of the experts interviewed in our story, Joanne B. Ciulla,
inspirational career quotes than I do reflecting on said inspira- the author of The Working Life: The Promise and Betrayal of Modern
tional quotes. But recently, after clicking “follow” on yet another Work, points out that just because you love creating new recipes at
motivational-message account, I realized how easy it is to take these home doesn’t necessarily mean you would be happy working in a
canapé-size bites of information at face value and never pause to restaurant. Living in a culture that equates success with having a
consider whether their meaning really holds true. meaningful job places tremendous pressure on all of us, and we
One example that comes to mind is this oft-posted quote: may miss the joy of doing what we love simply because we love it.
“If you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.” I So whether you’re still trying to figure out what you have
understand the sentiment, but I’m pretty sure that if you were to a passion for or you’re one career quote away from needing
tell Serena Williams, arguably the greatest athlete of our time, to upgrade your phone’s storage plan, I hope you can take a
that her profession shouldn’t feel like “work,” she would laugh you moment to reflect on what you want—and need—to feel content
out of the gym she had been training in since 5 a.m. and accomplished in both your work and your personal life.
This month, in “All Work No Play” (page 58), we dive into
another slightly misguided career concept that should come
with an asterisk when posted online: “Follow your passion.” Of
course, a job where you feel connected to something that’s true
to your heart can be wonderfully motivating and fulfilling, but
ELLECANADA.COM 11
FRONT ROW
February
WHAT’S ON THE ELLE EDITORS’ RADAR THIS MONTH.
TEXT, PATRICIA KAROUNOS & ERICA NGAO; PHOTOGRAPHY, AMANDA CHARCHIAN (H. KIYOKO), SHUVINAI ASHOONA (COMPOSITION [PEOPLE, ANIMALS, AND THE WORLD HOLDING HANDS], 2008, COLLECTION OF EDWARD J. GUARINO), NATIONAL GALLERY OF CANADA (MATA AHO COLLECTIVE,
GENRE BUSTER
Another month, another must-see art exhibit
at the Vancouver Art Gallery. This time, it’s Inuk
AKA INSTALLED AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF CANADA, 2019. COLLECTION OF THE COLLECTIVE), SAMSON HATAE (RUMPL), ROYAL WINNIPEG BALLET (MOULIN ROUGE) & CBC (HEY LADY!)
artist Shuvinai Ashoona’s Mapping Worlds,
opening on February 22. Her drawings are
ON THE RISE celebrated for giving a nod to traditional Inuit
It’s 2020—you should know who Hayley
imagery and combining it with other cultural
Kiyoko is by now. But if her name still doesn’t
references, such as horror films, comic books
ring a bell, you’ll surely remember her as
and television. Ashoona’s work is created with
one of the stars in Taylor Swift’s pastel-hued
ink and coloured pencils, making for a display
“You Need to Calm Down” music video,
that enchantingly blends reality and fantasy.
recognize her catchy pop tunes (Billboard
named her career-defining “Girls Like
Girls” one of the top 100 songs of the 2010s)
or recall her passionate fans heaping
praise on her for speaking (and singing)
about queer sexuality. Catch her live in
Montreal and Toronto (February 22 and 24,
respectively) for instant fandom.
MASTERS AT WORK
Head to the National Gallery of Canada this spring to
experience Àbadakone, the second exhibition in the
institution’s series of presentations of contemporary
international Indigenous art. Performance art, video
work and installations enliven various parts of the gallery
and are complemented by a program of workshops
and film screenings. With works by more than 70
artists identifying with almost 40 Indigenous nations,
ethnicities and tribal affiliations from 16 countries, it’s
worth more than one visit. Àbadakone|Continuous
Fire|Feu continuel runs until April 5, 2020.
12 ELLECANADA.COM
COMPACT COMFORT
Merging the coziness of your favourite comforter with
the warmth and durability of a sleeping bag, Rumpl’s
blankets are made for the outdoors, indoors and
everywhere in between. With a variety of prints and a
handy pouch for storage and travel, they work whether
you’re on a hike or binge-watching The Crown. And for
the eco-conscious among us (so, everyone, hopefully),
the brand has even redesigned two of its bestselling
styles using 100 percent post-consumer recycled
materials. (From $130, rumpl.com)
JOY SEEKER
When was the last time you did
something purely for pleasure?
If you have to think about your answer
for more than a minute, it’s been way
too long. That was the realization
COME WHAT MAY Canadian writer and talk-show host
We’d be tangoing into our seats for the Royal Winnipeg Ballet’s production of Cynthia Loyst came to a few years ago,
Moulin Rouge—if only we knew how. Originally choreographed by former principal which eventually led to her new book,
dancer Jorden Morris for the company’s 70th anniversary in 2009, the vibrant show Find Your Pleasure. The lifestyle tome is
returns to the stage this month, from February 26 to March 1, telling the story of two a deep dive into every possible way you
lovers seeking destiny at the infamous cabaret. can add more well-deserved indulgence
into your everyday, from celebrating
your friends to setting aside time for
a bath and a glass of red.
YOUNG AT HEART
Are your commute podcasts just not cutting it anymore? Let CBC Gem’s new original
comedy series Hey Lady! distract you from the rush-hour-packed train instead. Directed by
homegrown talents (including Sarah Polley), it stars Canadian screen veteran Jayne Eastwood
(My Big Fat Greek Wedding) as Lady, a 75-year-old mean-spirited woman/potential icon-in-
the-making who refuses to age gracefully—whatever that means. All eight mini-episodes
(each is under 10 minutes long) debut on the streaming service on February 14.
ELLECANADA.COM 13
FRONT ROW
PARTY ON
Since becoming the first artist signed to Drake’s record label, OVO Sound, in 2013,
Canadian rapper and producer Jahron Brathwaite, a.k.a. PartyNextDoor, has firmly
established himself as one to watch in hip hop and R&B. After earning two Grammy
nominations and co-writing Rihanna’s earworm “Work,” he returns with his third
album this winter. The lead single, “Loyal,” even features the boss man himself.
QUICK HANDS
Got a minute? Essie is launching the brand’s first-ever
quick-dry polish with its Expressie line. Apply a coat
using the new angled brush and wait 60 seconds for
the fastest polish application you’ll ever experience.
Choose from a range of 30 shades for a mani that’s
perfectly you. ($10 each, essie.com)
BEST FOOT
FORWARD
Are your shoes keeping nearly
300,000 plastic bottles out of
landfills or helping to clean more
than a million litres of lake water?
Those are just a couple of the goals
of Call It Spring’s debut vegan
collection. It’s made using materials
like algae and vegan leather,
which requires fewer chemicals
and emits less carbon dioxide in
the manufacturing process. From
OUT OF
strappy party-ready heels to cozy
OFFICE
What happens when
shearling-lined boots, there’s a pair
a septuagenarian
to help you take the first step toward
matriarch wins a
a more sustainable closet.
cruise and gathers up
(From $40, callitspring.com)
her estranged adult
children to spend 10 days traversing the
Mediterranean? Well, in Amanda Eyre
Ward’s The Jetsetters, years-old family
secrets are revealed and old wounds are
reopened—so, all the key elements of
a good family drama that we’d hate
to actually live through ourselves.
14 ELLECANADA.COM
WAIT FOR IT
We want to be in the room where...the Canadian premiere
of Hamilton happens. The critically acclaimed, Tony
Award-winning rap and R&B musical, which follows the life
of Alexander Hamilton from his early days as an immigrant
from the West Indies to becoming a founding father of the
United States, is finally making its way north of the border.
We can’t promise an appearance by scribe/OG star Lin-
Manuel Miranda when it premieres at Toronto’s Ed Mirvish
Theatre on February 11 for its three-month run, but we’ll do
anything to see the Schuyler sisters in action.
DAYDREAMS
It’s never too early to start planning your summer
vacay. Known for its line of luxe, refined swimwear,
Quebec-based Shan is launching its first clothing
collection. The versatile capsule of easy-to-wear pieces
is inspired by Japanese modernism—think sleek
silhouettes in technical fabrics. It’s your airport, beach
and resort outfit all in one. (From $195, shan.ca)
TINY
PLEASURES
Put the winter layers away
for a weekend and lounge
by the fire with Christopher
Kane’s More Joy collection.
CAMERA SHY Referencing the ever-relevant
You can now check “Valentine’s 1972 manual The Joy of
Day plans” off your to-do list thanks Sex , the Scottish designer
to Canadian writer-director Stella has emblazoned everyday
Meghie. Her new romantic drama, objects (think blankets and
The Photograph, is a sweeping love pyjamas) with mantras and
story about forgiveness and aptly hits words like “More Joy,” “Sex”
theatres on February 14. Issa Rae and “Special.” It’s a simple
stars as a woman looking into the but essential reminder that
past of her late mother, a renowned the road to bliss can always
photographer, alongside a journalist be found by staying in. (From
(Lakeith Stanfield) who is working $25, christopherkane.com)
on a story about her mom. They
then fall in love, because, obviously.
PHOTOGRAPHY, JOAN MARCUS (HAMILTON)
ELLECANADA.COM 15
DEBUT
Jennifer Aniston
EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE FRIEND HAS BECOME THE
HEALTHY CALIFORNIAN SHE WAS RAISED TO BE.
LAST YEAR WAS a big one for Jennifer MOM KNOWS BEST “My mom
Aniston. She started producing raised me very holistically. I was
and starring in a new series called never allowed Cap’n Crunch. I was
The Morning Show, finally joined very aware of health. But when you
Instagram and turned 50, all while become a teenager and you’re out
the internet was blowing up with with your friends, all that falls by the
rumours of a Friends reunion. “We’re wayside. And then you get into your
all sort of shocked,” she says of the 20s and your 30s, and you start to see
continued interest in the ’90s sitcom there was a reason behind all of it.”
that put her on the map. “No one
expected that it would have this long TURNING 50 “The lead-up is way
of a shelf life, but we’re thrilled about bigger than the actual and the after-
it. I think it’s incredible!” When we math, which is because of society. It’s
meet up with her at the 1 Hotel in the messaging you listen to that makes
West Hollywood, she’s a vision of it a big deal, and then you realize
classic, effortless style in her white slip ‘Well, this is just another day. This is
dress, strappy sandals and signature no big deal.’”
undone blowout. “There are not
really many trends that I’m follow- ON MONTREAL “I worked there
ing,” she says. “I’m more about great a year ago [while filming Murder
pieces that work.” As for her youthful Mystery] for the first time. I loved it.
energy, Aniston says she got it from And the people are literally—it’s not
her mama, a health-conscious woman a cliché—the nicest people.”
who schooled her daughter in living
EARLY BIRD “I’ve always watched
TEXT, CAITLIN AGNEW; PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (J. ANISTON & OLD MONTREAL)
well from a young age.

morning shows. They’re very com-
SKINCARE ROUTINE “Simple is forting to me. Even when I was a kid
better. You don’t want to confuse at my grandmother’s house, I’d get
your skin. I usually just use a toner up so early and watch the morning
and a serum, and then my Aveeno shows. It was like a little family on
moisturizer is the last thing.” the television.”
GUT HEALTH “When I moved to L.A., BEDTIME READING “My friend

I found an acupuncturist; I learned Laura Lynne Jackson, who’s a psychic,
about gut health from her. It has always just sent me her book Signs; I’m going
Clockwise, from above left: Aniston been in the background of my world, to start to read that because it’s sort
in The Morning Show ; Signs by Laura and it’s something I’ve always been of before-bed reading. I mostly read
Lynne Jackson; Old Montreal;
Aveeno Positively Radiant Sheer interested in. It’s our inner health—what scripts, so it’s hard to find time to read
Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 ($20, at
drugstores and mass-market retailers) goes in affects what’s on the outside.” something for myself.”
16 ELLECANADA.COM
slug
ELLECanada.com
REVIVE YOUR WINTER WARDROBE. LAYER A STATEMENT TANK OVER YOUR OUTFIT
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PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (STREET STYLE) PHOTO CREDIT
CAMERA ROLL
WHAT THE EDITORS
ON THE ’GRAM.
GET UP TO
Just over three years ago, Beigeois in the Caribbean. ` Only wearing custom Going to spend the
I became the editor of @jedtallo @victoriadiplacido tuxedos from now on. next three days taking
PHOTO CREDIT
@ELLECanada and my art director digital director Thanks, @alfredsung. photos of buildings, enjoy.
life has been a whirl- @elainejyll @patriciakar
wind ever since. ` fashion & market editor associate editor
@vanessacraft
editor-in-chief
ELLECANADA.COM 17
Follow us @ELLECanada for

the latest in fashion,
beauty and celebrity news. PHOTOGRAPHY, CARLOS + ALYSE
style
SAINT LAURENT
FULLY
TRANSPARENT
The new, sensual sheers
are revealing a lot about
how far we’ve come.
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE
19
LOEWE
VALENTINO
WE ARE WITNESSING the final of female nudity. The #MeToo movement had
overhaul of “sexy.” Until not an even bigger impact: Suddenly, collectively,
too long ago, the fashion indus- we were demanding that our bodies—naked or
try’s thinly veiled attempts to otherwise—be absolved of any blame for others’
exalt the female form were, well, sexual transgressions. On the retail front,
pretty transparent. Consider Rihanna, the high priestess herself, launched
Calvin Klein’s controversial use the utterly relatable size-inclusive Savage X
PYER MOSS
of an underage Kate Moss in Fenty lingerie collection, a release so powerful
those topless denim ads in the and boundary pushing that it ushered in the
’90s and perhaps the entirety of so-called “death” of the Victoria’s Secret
Terry Richardson’s near-porno- fashion show after a mostly misogynistic
graphic oeuvre: These up-until- 24-year reign.
now-iconic images were born of This revolution has impacted not only
the male gaze. the ways in which designers are playing with
MUGLER
Looking at the spring/sum- sheer fabrics but also the types of bodies
mer 2020 catwalks, though, it being revealed and celebrated on the run-
seems we’ve turned a corner. way. At this season’s Saint Laurent show, for
Super-sheer, barely-there fab- example, a sequined Le Smoking-clad Liya
ric—historically the sartorial vehicle of choice for Kebede wore a filmy, chest-baring blouse.
designers looking to shock and expose—looked At age 41, Kebede could conceivably be
more thoughtful as soft, feminine designs replaced the mother of one of the season’s hot new
the one-note, nudity-for-nudity’s-sake takes of faces, yet she handily silenced the critics,
TEXT, ERICA NGAO; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY), GETTY (BALENCIAGA RUNWAY)
yesteryear. Seasonal stalwarts Celine and Gucci who have traditionally told women over 40
took on nine-to-five dressing with wispy pussy-bow to tone it down. Over at Mugler, a house
blouses that allowed just a suggestion of historically reprimanded for
curvature to come through the pastel its exploitative fashions, nou-
gossamers. At Pyer Moss and Loewe, THERE WAS NO veau arrivé Casey Cadwallader
button-downs that were completely SHOCK VALUE, invited a more modern cast for
see-through—save for an opaque NO EXPRESSLY his sensual reinterpretation of
placket—delicately skimmed the chest. SEDUCTIVE past garments, a move that saw size-14
Even at Valentino, which tends to be EVOCATION. model Jill Kortleve in a black lingerie
the very definition of demure, a frothy set covered by gauzy nothingness.
plum-coloured georgette gown revealed more than it She looked comfortable; she looked beautiful.
kept hidden. There was no shock value, no expressly It wasn’t so long ago that only a privileged few
seductive evocation—just womanhood as we see it. seemed authorized to sport these sheer fabrics—just
This shift comes on the heels of fourth-wave those who fit society’s too narrow view of “sexy.”
feminism and its energetic momentum. First Now, we’ve finally entered an era in which we’re
came #FreeTheNipple, a response to stiff-necked all being invited to show a little—or a lot—as the
social-media execs outlawing the “sexual” elements mood strikes. Our bodies, our choice. JILLIAN VIEIRA
20 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ELLE y LOVES
LUCKY
DIGITAL TOUCH
Just in time for its 35th anniversary, TOMMY HILFIGER
GEMS
is starting its next chapter. The brand, best known for
its preppy-cool style, is transitioning to 3-D design.
Its Amsterdam-based apparel-design team will be trained
to use innovations—such as digital fabric, 3-D presentation
tools and rendering technology—developed by an in-house
tech incubator. Transforming traditional steps into a virtual
process will allow the company to produce faster (and with
less textile waste). The first capsule, which will feature
products modelled on avatars, arrives this fall and will be a
taste of what’s to come as the company works toward having FEEL LUCKY
CELINE
a fully-3-D-designed collection by spring/summer 2022. IN LOVE WITH

KALEIDOSCOPIC
GUCCI
OPALS.
14-karat-gold and opal
earrings, Erin Marcus
($145, erinmarcusdesigns.com)
WEAR A PAIR OF
BLUE-SAPPHIRE-
ENCRUSTED
HOOPS TO
ENHANCE
WISDOM.
18-karat-gold-vermeil and sapphire
earrings, Zaleska ($144, zaleska.ca)
OFF TO the RACES

DIAMONDS
ADD A LUXE
Move over, Triple S. The latest love-it-or-hate-it shoe comes courtesy
EDGE TO THESE
of Balenciaga. (Naturally.) Introduced on the runway as part of the
GEMSTONE
spring/summer 2020 collection, the futuristic Tyrex sneaker turned
PIECES.
PHOTOGRAPHY,
heads with its anatomy-inspired construction. Layers of asymmetrical 14-karat-gold, diamond and
watermelon-tourmaline earrings,
panels mimic musculature for a viscerally athletic feel, while an Jacquie Aiche ($1,625 each,
jacquieaiche.com)
angled square toe completes the track-meets-office look. h
ELLECANADA.COM 21
STYLE
From left: Rihanna

wearing an Alexandre
Vauthier gown at
the 2016 MTV VMAs;
Céline Dion at the
Alexandre Vauthier
spring/summer
2020 Haute Couture
show in a gown by
the designer; Vauthier
in Toronto
TAKING centre STAGE

Alexandre Vauthier reflects
on a decade of design.
Bella Hadid walking in

the Alexandre Vauthier
fall/winter 2017 Haute
Couture finale
I ALMOST STUMBLED as I walked How have you evolved as a designer?

into the private shopping suite “After I studied with [Mugler and Gaultier], I didn’t see
at The Room at Hudson’s Bay, myself as a studio director. I wanted to be free, so I
momentarily blinded by a rack of launched my own company to test and challenge
glittering dresses suspended from myself, to see if I could create a collection that had
the ceiling lights. Equally dazzling commercial resonance. A decade later, I’m here. This
was the star of the show, French is my story, and I’m the owner, president, artistic dir-
designer Alexandre Vauthier, who ector and CEO. It’s a lot of work because it’s not a big
was waiting beside the gowns—a house—we’re only 25 people.”
tableau of the couturier and his How do you decide what to create and why?
creations. Vauthier was in Toronto “I’m super interested in politics and where the world’s
to host a trunk show for VIP going. With my designs, it’s a question of context. What
guests to browse his red-carpet I do today would have been impossible to present a
glamazon pieces, from sharply decade ago. You need to have a little space to exist,
tailored pinstriped suits to mini party dresses dotted with handmade rosettes. and this little space is the context. Just be open and try
“It’s like a dance—I can do it with my eyes closed,” he says of to understand why people think
creating collections that offer different options for any occasion. like this or live like this. Life is hard,
And it’s a dance that Vauthier has rehearsed and performed and it’s necessary to find a way
many times, having recently celebrated the 10-year anniversary of to live well, to understand and to
his label, which he launched after training under mentors Thierry make happiness all around you.”
Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier. Over the decade, the designer has What fuels your creative
TEXT, ERICA NGAO; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY) & GETTY (RIHANNA)
counted style icons like Rihanna and Céline Dion among the fans process?
of his powerfully feminine and sophisticatedly sexy approach to “I don’t think about one woman; I
dressing. Alexandre Vauthier has the distinction of being one of think about all women and what
the few independent houses on the Paris Haute Couture Week their lives are like in a day. It’s super
calendar, and the designer’s vision continues to be strong after all important for me to see how they
these years. We spoke with Vauthier about celebrating his roots, live and how they feel so I can
building a brand and being guided by the moment. propose something that they will
love and understand. You need to
What was your inspiration for the spring/summer think about all the situations when
2020 collection? you create a collection because
“It’s very Parisian. It’s about being super chic. There are extravagant a woman doesn’t live in a box. If I
details, but there’s also a lot of tailoring. I try to have a collection that can make them [feel] stronger or
completely dresses my clients. It’s about not only party dressing but more confident, I’m here for that.
also daytime.” This is my role.”
22 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
Gold-plated-brass and
rubber earrings, Sunnei
($380, at Archives,
archivestoronto.com)
Leather handbag,
Jacquemus ($750, at
modaoperandi.com)
AGNONA
Cotton crewneck,
Balenciaga ($1,075, Silk dress, Stella
balenciaga.com) McCartney ($1,356,
at mytheresa.com)
Cotton skirt,
J.W.Anderson ($608,
at mytheresa.com)
Leather handbag, Pierre Hardy

($1,325, pierrehardy.com)
Cotton and elastane pants,

Baum und Pferdgarten ($205,
baumundpferdgarten.com)
Tulum Gypset by STELLA MCCARTNEY

Julia Chaplin ($113,
at shopbop.com) Cotton sweater, Tibi
($496, tibi.com)
CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS
Candy Crush
STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY)
Refresh with fruity pastels

and be instantly transported
to sunnier days.
Leather boots, Zara Cotton shirt,

($159, zara.com) Silvia Tcherassi
($885, at Kirna Zabête,
kirnazabete.com)
ELLECANADA.COM 23
Calf-leather shoulder bag, Bottega
STYLE Veneta ($3,470, bottegaveneta.com)
TEXT, ERICA NGAO; STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; PHOTOGRAPHY, GEOFFREY ROSS
the FIND
WHEN THE FIRST iteration of Bottega Veneta’s now iconic Pouch clutch made its debut last spring, it
became an instant classic. The bag, with its distinctive shape and chic simplicity, became an emblem
for the then newly appointed creative director Daniel Lee’s vision for the house: reviving its traditional-
Italian-craftsmanship roots with a modern attitude. For pre-spring 2020, the coveted accessory
returns, this time in three sizes, with an added handle and in new materials: silky napa calf leather,
crack-effect leather and natural cork. As the saying goes, you can never have too much of a good thing.
24 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
Faux-leather handbag, Charles & Keith
($83, charleskeith.com)
SAINT LAURENT
18-karat-gold and
diamond necklace, Birks
RAG & BONE

($350, maisonbirks.com)
Cotton-blend shorts,
Mango ($40, Polyester and viscose shorts, Self-Portrait
mango.com) ($383, self-portrait-studio.com)
Faux-leather belt,
Leather loafers, Everlane ($224, everlane.com) Charles & Keith
($31, charleskeith.com)
Cotton shirt, Weekend

Max Mara ($256, at
Harrods, harrods.com)
Cotton cardigan,
Thom Browne ($1,832,
at matchesfashion.com)
The New School

STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY)
Gold-tone-metal
Get to the top of the class brooch, Saint Laurent
by Anthony Vaccarello
($515, at farfetch.com)
with layered collegiate classics.
Wool cardigan,
Acne Studios ($449,
at NET-A-PORTER.com)
Cotton shirt, James

Purdey & Sons ($185,
at NET-A-PORTER.com)
Leather loafers, G.H. Bass & Co. ($175, ghbass.com)
ELLECANADA.COM 25
PHOTOGRAPHY, D. PICARD
26 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
Blazer of Glory
This season, a sharp jacket is the only piece you need.
By LEANNE DELAP
A CASUAL REVOLUTION has ruled our closets for longer than I can remember.
But on the threshold of a new decade, a major shift in silhouette is adding
structure—and the inverted-triangle shape—back into our lives. Of course,
suits have always been the default option for women with corporate jobs. We
originally adopted the suit as a way to “level the playing field,” a trend that was
epitomized in the ’80s by the decade’s synonymous Working Girl power suit, an
androgynous look that erased our curves and built up our shoulders to make us
look as if we could tackle any guys standing in our way. And now, more than
30 years later—after we’ve revisited hot takes on all the big trends from the
past—it seems like every woman is wearing a blazer again.
The way was led, as it always is, by an array of celebrities. It was Queen
Céline—enjoying a revival of her own after a killer couture rampage last sum-
mer—who inspired me to rummage through the back of my closet (actually,
the back of my second closet, in a kid’s room upstairs) and resurrect my old
suits and blazers. Dion’s Vêtements jacket over an “I [heart] Paris Hilton”
T-shirt paired with a replica Titanic necklace somehow looked completely
fresh despite its nod to nostalgia. The look, I mused, was the perfect inspo for
a comeback tour of my own ’90s-era jackets. h
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMDB ( WORKING GIRL) & GETTY (C. DION & K. MIDDLETON)
From left: Melanie Griffith in Working Girl;

Céline Dion; Kate Middleton
ELLECANADA.COM 27
DOLCE & GABBANA

Though pantsuits look chic as hell on grown-
STELLA MCCARTNEY
ups—from Cate Blanchett at Cannes to Nancy Pelosi

wagging her finger from the podium—who may
SMYTHE
have worn them the first time around, blazers have

been looking crisp on the jacket movement’s chief
20-something protagonists: Bella, Gigi and Hailey,
who are often snapped in suiting while carrying out
endless coffee runs. Call it empowerment-era jacket
dressing. This spring, classic blazers are being worn
every imaginable way—take the cream blazer
over jeans on the Céline runway, for example,
or Stella McCartney’s grey jacket softened up
with a see-through camisole, Christopher Kane’s
penchant for tossing oversized navy blazers over
dresses or Dolce & Gabbana’s safari jackets with
waist-cinching detailing.
This season, you can wear a matchy-matchy
pantsuit in a rainbow-bright hue or an exaggerated
menswear-inspired checked jacket, or you can mix
a vintage blazer with jeans or wear it over a dress
(even a slip dress if you want to mix your ’80s and
’90s references). As long as you are in a blazer, you
WHAT are in fashion.
TO BUY “The wilderness is over!” says Robert Ott, pro-
fessor and former chair at Toronto’s Ryerson’s School
CHRISTOPHER KANE
If you want to make one

investment purchase this of Fashion, of this return to structure. And it’s about
spring, the hands-down pick, time: The trend of “very, very slim silhouettes” has
says Tamara Mimran, is a lasted more than a decade now. Though menswear
double-breasted suit with blazers started appearing on stylish early adopters
wider-leg pants. “Women on the streets of London and Paris in 2017, North
are wearing the double- American shoppers lagged a bit behind, “still pouring
breasted suit jacket open. themselves into these narrow silhouettes,” says Ott.
And it looks as good with After all, we are more into gym culture here and
jeans as it does with match- more influenced by body-conscious Hollywood
ing pants.” She adds that Instagrammers. “But something had to give! If it’s
the old-school ’80s look has not the seam, it has to be the style,” he adds.
been tweaked for today’s Designer Tamara Mimran agrees that the
tastes: “The longer length of pendulum has recently begun to swing back
the jacket is what makes it toward suiting, perhaps because of our collective
cool and modern.” fascination with royal style-setters Kate Middleton
and Meghan Markle. “They have been doing
very elegant, classic and sophisticated interpreta-
tions of suiting,” she says. And this season, we’ve
28 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
CHOOSING A SUIT INSTEAD

OF A DRESS IS LIKE
CHOOSING ARMOUR.
reached peak blazer. “It’s stealing the show,” adds

the entrepreneur, who, along with her brother,
Jordin, took over the Alfred Sung label after the
long-time Canadian fashion icon retired last year.
The Mimran siblings have refocused the business
on bespoke suiting, and their timing appears to
be bang on: Prominent trend-forecasting group
WGSN noted that the presence of blazers on the
runways was up by 35 percent.
And there is no higher Canadian authority on
the subject of jackets than Smythe, the 15-year-old
label by Andrea Lenczner and Christie Smythe
that was established on the importance of a great
blazer. “Smythe was founded expressly to address
the gap in the market for the women’s equivalent
of a men’s sports jacket,” they explain. (The duo
always prefer to comment as one.) “Going back 15
years, if a woman wanted to wear a blazer with
jeans, her only option was the top half of her suit.”
And they have some thoughts on why this
is going on: We want our look to match our
authority. “The proliferation of the blazer cat-
egory is undoubtedly linked to growing female
activism and empowerment,” they say. “A defined
shoulder and a sharply cut silhouette are a show
of strength and confidence.” And this is not, they
maintain, at the expense of femininity.
“Personally, I’m tired of feeling casual,” agrees
Mimran. Choosing a suit instead of a dress is like
choosing armour, adds Ott. “Just ask a man why
he is wearing a suit: It’s because a jacket gives
structure and makes him look strong.”
Perhaps that’s why millions of us, from duchesses
on down, are feeling the need to suit up right now.
For a brief while, we may have been able to forget
about the past and collectively labour under the
naive illusion that equality and social justice were
already ours. But if the long-percolating #MeToo
movement, the renewed fight for pay equity and the
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY
struggle to stop the erosion of hard-won women’s

rights have taught us anything, it’s that we might
From top: Nancy Pelosi; need those squared-up shoulders to help our voices
Cate Blanchett; Hailey
Bieber; Meghan Markle be heard.
ELLECANADA.COM 29
TOTALLY
WORTH
IT
This scenic fashion
show was less about
clothes and more about
celebrating diversity.
WHEN YOU’VE HELD fashion shows at locations such as the Champs-Élysées
and on a floating runway on the river Seine, your next move is to host one
at the home of one of the oldest institutions in France: the Monnaie de Paris,
the city’s mint, founded in 864. L’Oréal Paris took over the historic Hôtel
des Monnaies this past September for its third Paris Fashion Week show.
The annual event is a star-studded affair, with the brand’s spokespeople on
hand to celebrate fashion as well as beauty of all ages and origins. Backstage,
in-house global makeup director Val Garland and international hair artist
and expert Stéphane Lancien led their teams in creating 66 looks that were
as diverse as the models themselves.
TEXT, LESA HANNAH; PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (GROUP) & IMAXTREE (D. KROES)
Set in an open-air courtyard, the show opened with a 40-musician live

orchestra, and then Doutzen Kroes appeared in a red Rokh shirt and skirt.
She was followed by a seemingly-never-ending stream of brand ambassa-
dors—32 in total—including Eva Longoria (who brought out her son at the
end), Amber Heard, Aja Naomi King, Soo Joo Park and Aishwarya Rai. Even
L’Oréal Paris’ own celebrity makeup artist, Sir John, made an appearance
during a menswear moment.
While the clothes—frothy gowns, sharp suits, leather separates—were
certainly part of the spectacle, it was the personalities who stole the show.
Rather than staring sternly ahead, as is par for the course on runways, the
models waved, blew kisses and gave high-fives as they passed one another.
The finale saw a barefoot 74-year-old Helen Mirren joyously bound out in a
black-and-white Giambattista Valli gown before everyone returned to take
a bow amid a celebratory cloud of silver confetti.
30 ELLECANADA.COM
SHOW NOTES
SHOW
Le Défilé
L’Oréal Paris
LOCATION
Hôtel des Monnaies,
Paris
RUNWAY STAR
POWER
Amber Heard,
Andie MacDowell,
Camila Cabello,
Helen Mirren and Soo
Joo Park
Clockwise, from top: Soo Joo Park; drummers in the

40-member orchestra; Helen Mirren walking the runway
Opposite, from top:

Celebrity L’Oréal Paris
brand ambassadors during
the show’s finale; Doutzen Kroes.
Above: Makeup artist Sir John
leading a group of men onto
the runway
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (RUNWAY) & GETTY (A. RAI)
Aja Naomi King (left) and Aishwarya Rai (above)
ELLECANADA.COM 31
STYLE
The
Perfect
Fit
Navigating the world of tailoring can be complicated—but it
PHOTOGRAPHY, BRENT GOLDSMITH
doesn’t have to be. We asked five experts for their advice on

creating the perfect wardrobe, no matter your needs.
PHOTOGRAPHY,
By ERICA NGAO
32 ELLECANADA.COM
If you’re looking for adaptive clothing…

WHO: Izzy Camilleri, designer and founder of IZ Adaptive
For over a decade, Canadian designer Izzy Camilleri has been pushing
the boundaries of adaptive fashion, creating wardrobe essentials for people
living with physical disabilities, including wheelchair users and those with
limited dexterity. “A misconception about adaptive clothing is that it’s
made differently, but the actual physical labour of making an adaptive
pair of pants is no different from constructing a regular pair of pants,”
says Camilleri. “But what is different is that you need to understand
what you’re doing and why you’re doing it.”
EASY FIXES: Modifications like swapping small shirt buttons for snap buttons
or magnets or putting a slit on the side of a shirt or coat so that the wearer can
sit comfortably are all simple solutions that any tailor should be able to do.
GIVE IT A TRY: Despite the rise of inclusive fashion lines—Tommy

Hilfiger debuted its first adaptive collection in 2018—Camilleri says
that the concept is still under the radar. “A lot of people don’t realize
how beneficial it is,” she says. “But it’s a better alternative if it makes
your life easier and more comfortable.”
If you’re looking to show off your silhouette…

WHO: Cherry Wang, editorial and commercial stylist
If anyone knows what looks best on you, whether you’re petite or curvy, it’s
a stylist. Toronto-based Cherry Wang has worked with all types of garments
on the sets of fashion shoots and through co-running Re—Pull Library, a
curated catalogue of archived designer and custom apparel available for
rent or purchase.
SIZE UP: “It’s always better to buy an item that fits your widest measurement
and then take in the parts that are too big,” says Wang. But she cautions
against overaltering as extensive work will change a piece’s intended style
and silhouette.
DO IT YOURSELF: If you can’t get to a tailor, there are plenty of easy

tricks for a temporary fix that you can do at home. To shorten hemlines,
use double-sided tape. For loose tops, add a belt to cinch the waist or safety
pins to close gaps. Pants that are too tight can be saved by looping an
elastic through the buttonhole and wrapping it around the button. And,
finally, don’t underestimate the power of an artfully-rolled-up sleeve.
If you’re looking to refresh your vintage…

WHO: Maegan McWade, owner of Shoppe and Tailor
After years of doing repairs and alterations for friends, Maegan McWade
turned her side hustle into a business and launched Shoppe and Tailor in
2014. The Toronto-based boutique studio specializes in repairing well-
worn basics like knits and denim and—if you’re feeling adventurous—
reinventing the most beloved but outdated pieces in your closet.
HAVE A PLAN: If you’re looking to do a bigger project, such as changing the

style or silhouette of a piece, have a vision in mind. “Bring inspiration images
so we can really see the style you’re leaning toward,” says McWade. “Any sort
of visual aid is a great, supportive tool.”
KNOW THE LIMITS: In some cases, a garment may be beyond repair.

“We do a lot of vintage-fur work, but sometimes certain skins are no longer
supple and all the repairs you do can have a ripple effect and cause further
damage,” says McWade. And when it comes to vintage pieces, she adds,
it’s always easier to make a garment smaller since the material is often too
delicate to be let out at the seams. h
ELLECANADA.COM 33
STYLE
THE BEST
SILHOUETTES
FOR EVERY
FIGURE
Stylist Cherry Wang
breaks down how to
tailor your closet for
your body shape.
HOURGLASS
“Plus-size hourglass
figures look great
If you’re looking in anything that
to tweak your basics… accentuates the waist,
WHO: Mei Chow, tailor
like body-con dresses.”
With over 35 years of experience,
Mei Chow is one of Canada’s most
seasoned tailors and often works on the
BIGGER BUST
“If you’re bustier, try
sets of photo shoots with superstars like
to avoid the ‘sack of
Rihanna, Drake and Karlie Kloss.
potatoes’ fit: anything
that fits at the bust and
FINDING THE ONE: “Everybody’s
is too loose everywhere
shape is different,” says Chow,
else. A-line dresses and
so something as simple as a hem
fuller skirts can balance
If you’re looking adjustment can make or break a
out your top and bottom.
for a bespoke suit… garment. But first you have to find
Try something with a
WHO: Oksana Ringsma, the right person to do it. Good tailors,
high neck to draw the
co-founder of Nicole Bach like restaurants and boutiques, are
attention upward.”
During her five years working as a often discovered via word of mouth,
bra fitter, Oksana Ringsma started so ask friends and family for their
to notice that there was a similarity recommendations. If you’re trying out
APPLE
“Tunics and mini shift
between lingerie and suiting—namely a new place, ask the tailor for examples
dresses with straight lines
that most women don’t know where of previous work so you can gauge
draw eyes to your legs.
to begin. So, as a response to the whether they can provide what
Wrap dresses and fit-
male-dominated world of bespoke you need.
and-flare dresses create
suiting, she launched Nicole Bach,
the illusion of a waistline.”
a Toronto-based studio that crafts TRICKY FABRICS: If your garment is
suits specifically for women. made of a delicate or heavy material
like silk or velvet, beware: It’s harder
PEAR
“Balance out your
BE PREPARED: A tailored suit can to work with, so make sure the tailor
proportions by
be a hefty investment, ranging from a you’re considering has the necessary
focusing on your top
few hundred to a few thousand dollars. skills. “If they’ve never touched it,”
half and waistline.
“So you need to have a really good says Chow, “they won’t be able to
Structured jackets and
understanding of what you’re trying work with it.”
asymmetrical hems are
to achieve,” says Ringsma. “You may
great ways to draw the
not have all the answers, but you have
eye upward. Well-fitting
to know what you want the end result
fit-and-flare dresses also
to look like.”
look good on bottom-
heavy figures.”
STORAGE MATTERS: There’s no sense
in finding a good tailor if you aren’t
going to care for your pieces afterwards.
PETITE
“Your look should be
Preserve the structure of the suit with
well proportioned.
a proper hanger that has thick, slightly
Go to a tailor to tweak
contoured shoulders—and don’t toss
hemlines and adjust
your clothes in a pile. “You need to let
sleeve lengths. Cropped
the material breathe after you wear it,”
jackets and pants, skirts
she says.
and dresses that hit
above the knee and
high-waisted bottoms
all help lengthen
your figure.”
34 ELLECANADA.COM
beauty
ALBERTA FERRETTI
BRIGHT
IDEAS
Smarter face-washing
habits and Fenty
Beauty’s most requested
item are now here.
35
BEAUTY
ANDREW GN
KATE SPADE
POT
OF GOLD
Derms love to recommend retinoids—and for good reason: The OTC
form of the ingredient, retinoic acid, is the only drug ingredient that’s rec- HERMÈS
ognized as being anti-aging by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

Retinoids (there are more than 4,000 iterations of the vitamin-A-derived
ingredient on the market) work by locking onto receptors in the dermis
and epidermis and changing gene expression. Results include increased
production of bouncy collagen, less pigmentation and overall smoother
skin. “Older skin absorbs and reflects light differently than younger
skin does,” explains Frauke Neuser, principal scientist for Olay. When
older skin is treated with retinol, it reverts back to the light-reflecting
(read “glowing”) days of its youth. And if you start using it in your 20s,
Warm up
the shift to older-looking skin doesn’t happen as drastically or as early.
Yet no other ingredient is as annoying to integrate into a skincare
routine. According to a study by Olay, half of women who said they had
tried retinol stopped using it after a month, either due to skin irritation Conventional wisdom (and
or because they didn’t see results. In the new Olay Regenerist Retinol beauty-launch calendars)
line, vitamin B3 is added to retinyl palmitate because it helps cells convert suggests that getting a sun-kissed
the ingredient into retinoic acid (the only form that cells can metabolize), look starts in summer. We say why
boosting the product’s efficacy. There’s also a host of hydrating ingredients wait? Everyone looks and feels
to prevent the flaking and redness that make some users quit before they grey at this time of year anyway.
see results (which happens after about 12 weeks). Another reason to give Guerlain Terracotta Nude ($64)
it a go: In one study, cells treated with retinyl propionate produced more is the newest addition to the
hyaluronic acid, even under stress. VICTORIA DIPLACIDO French brand’s bestselling lineup
of bronzers and is meant to mimic
the glow created by the sun’s less
intense morning rays. Chanel Éclat
du Désert ($80) is categorized
as an illuminator, but its muted
pink-beige hue provides skin
with the appearance of
a touch of heat.
Olay Regenerist Tata Harper Pixi Beauty L’Oréal Paris
Retinol 24 Boosted Contouring Overnight Revitalift Triple
Fragrance-Free Night Eye Balm Retinol Oil Power Anti-Aging
Moisturizer ($40) ($269) ($34) Night Mask ($39)
36 ELLECANADA.COM
ALL EYES ON RIH

Since the 2017 arrival of Fenty
Beauty, Rihanna has been
delivering industry-disrupting
products to her fans. Now comes
one of the most requested items:
Full Frontal Mascara ($32).
The “fat to flat” brush has a
curved edge with a small reser-
voir to ensure even distribution
for volume and lift, while the flat
side of the wand maximizes lash
separation and helps achieve an
all-day curl; the pointed tip is
for enhancing inner-corner and
lower lashes. And in true Fenty
fashion, the shade is named after
one of her most retweeted clap-
backs: “Cuz I’m Black.” (She
dropped the “Bitch,” but we’re
still here for it.) MELISSA PERDIGAO
J.W.ANDERSON
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (BACKSTAGE) & GEOFFREY ROSS (BRONZERS & SMEAR)
GO FROTH
“The most underserved hair type when it comes
to dry shampoo is curly hair,” says Jeni Thomas,
principal scientist for Pantene. That’s because the
product needs to be massaged into the roots with
fingers or a brush, which disrupts waves and coils.
To address that, the mousselike formula of Pantene
Cheat Day Dry Shampoo Foam ($9) cleanses and
hydrates hair without leaving any residue, and, though
it feels wet initially, it dries quickly. Another option is
Batiste Waterless Cleansing Foam ($12), which comes
in four scents: Coconut, Hibiscus, Cactus and Almond
Oil. For details, see Shopping Guide.
ELLECANADA.COM 37
BEAUTY
7
3
the EDIT
TEXT, LESA HANNAH; PHOTOGRAPHY, GEOFFREY ROSS
1. Formulated for maximum hydration with the highest amount of glycerine ever used by the brand, Olay Pressed Serum Stick Cooling ($26) includes cactus water
to soothe skin, and its solid format means it won’t raise eyebrows when you go through airport security. 2. The creamy texture of Philosophy Nature in a Jar Gentle
Detoxifying Cleanser with Agave ($39) transforms into a lather and features agave cryoextract. 3. Armani Privé Haute Couture Les Eaux in Jasmin Kusamono ($220)
is an airy take on the tiny white flower with contrasts of cedar and sandalwood. 4. OPI Nail Lacquer in Mexico City Move-Mint ($13) is an understated celadon that’s
part of the new spring 2020 collection. 5. The avocado in Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask ($56) nourishes the eye area while encapsulated
retinol, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are on a staggered release to treat dark circles and fine lines. 6. In Guerlain L’Essentiel Primer ($55), avocado extract and
white cocoa beans assist in refining pores while prebiotics from yacon juice and probiotics balance the skin’s microbiome. 7. L’Occitane 3-in-1 Micellar Water ($29)
removes makeup and impurities and feels refreshing thanks to an infusion of cucumber. For details, see Shopping Guide.
38 ELLECANADA.COM
BEAUTY
CURVES
Ahead
Ashley Graham doesn’t
mind talking about her body
if it means paving the
way for the next generation.
By LESA HANNAH
“OH, MY GOD, are you a mom?” asks

Ashley Graham, whose friendliness and
relatability are palpable even in a 15-minute
phone call. She’s describing an Instagram
account called @badassmotherbirther,
which is not for the squeamish: It features
photos and zoomed-in videos of women
literally pushing life out into the world. “I
watch these so that I know what I’m getting
into,” says Graham, whose first baby is
due this month. “I think once I get him as a trailblazer and also recognizes the
out of me, the rest shouldn’t be so bad.” necessity of the topic: The “number one”
The 32-year-old American is one of question she is asked by young women is
the most well-known curve models in the how to gain confidence. “This is a very
business right now and can be credited big issue in the world today,” she says.
with plenty of firsts for her body type: first “So it’s a conversation that I don’t mind
on the cover of Sports Illustrated, first to having and I’m going to continue having.”
walk in Michael Kors’ runway show and In fact, Graham is as much an activist as
first to be on the cover of Vogue. And she is a model; discussing subjects that
that’s just in the fashion world. In 2018, matter to her is a natural extension of
Graham signed with Revlon, making who she is. She hosts a podcast called
her the first to land a mainstream beauty Pretty Big Deal (Gayle King, Serena
contract. Being tapped by the company Williams and Amy Schumer have been
was especially personal for her; when she guests), and she uses her profile to keep the
was growing up, she’d hang posters of body-positivity dialogue going, whether
former Revlon girl Cindy Crawford on that’s by collaborating on size-inclusive Revlon So Fierce Mascara ($12) “This stuff goes on and
her wall and her mother wore the brand’s lingerie and swimwear or posting photos enhances your eyelashes like crazy. My favourite mascara ever.”
PHOTOGRAPHY, REVLON (A. GRAHAM)
lipsticks. “So, to have Ron Perelman of her cellulite. Being outspoken is not just Revlon ColorStay Browlights ($14) “I dye my eyebrows, but if
they’re still light, I use this to fill in where the gaps are. I also use
[Revlon’s chairman] call me and ask me if something she’s comfortable with—she it to colour in my beauty mark on the left side of my face.
I love to enhance that. And I use it as a lipliner to make my lips
I wanted a contract? I was dumbfounded sees it as a part of her duty as a model in juicier—if you use it lightly along the upper rim of your lip
and then kind of blur it out with a thick brush, it contours your lip.”
and excited,” she says. 2020. “There’s a responsibility that comes
While the endless questions about her with having followers and a platform,” she Revlon Super Lustrous Luscious Mattes in Pick Me Up ($11)
“I do a little bit of a contour with the brow pencil and then use
body from the media can get tiresome, says. “And I think being silent is more of this. It goes with my skin tone. If I’m tanned,if I’m pale,
and everything in between. And it’s amazing.” For details,
Graham accepts them as part of her role a problem than being vocal.” see Shopping Guide.
ELLECANADA.COM 39
BEAUTY
40 ELLECANADA.COM
CLEAN
What we’ve
CLEAR
and
WHILE IN COLLEGE overseas in Italy, Emily Parr would browse through pharmacies
and apothecaries looking for new facial cleansers while her classmates visited the local
been taught duomo and other historical landmarks. Plagued with acne, Parr, now the co-founder
about how to of a collection of cleansers called HoliFrog, was convinced that the right wash would
be the solution to her breakouts. “I came back from Italy with a duffle bag full of
wash our face cleansers,” she says.
is all wrong. Parr’s strategy for attempting to fix her skin is not uncommon. “Most people are
overcleansing,” confirms San Francisco-based facialist Kristina Holey. The logic behind
Cleansing the approach is that if we scrub away frequently and furiously, surely the skin will clear
smarter—not up. “We have been raised to fear oil and all bacteria, thinking they are the cause of skin
problems,” says Holey. “We wash so much because it’s a social norm,” adds Dr. Sandy
harder—is the Skotnicki, a Toronto-based dermatologist and author of Beyond Soap: The Real Truth
About What You Are Doing to Your Skin and How to Fix It for a Beautiful, Healthy
best approach. Glow. “The problem is it’s kind of spiralling: People are having reactions, sensitive skin
is an epidemic, which I think is mostly self-induced, and it goes on and on.”
By LESA HANNAH
It’s an issue that Sarah Brown, founder of Pai Skincare, has noticed. Customers
who had unknowingly been using a harsh cleanser would contact the brand and ask
for a suggestion for a moisturizer for their reactive, dehydrated skin. “What we found
a lot is that we’d fix people’s cleansers and the problem would go away,” she says.
That’s because cleansing with consistency as a plan of attack backfires as it removes
important bacteria and lipids and alters the pH too much. “This makes us more
PHOTOGRAPHY, TRUNK ARCHIVE
vulnerable to sensitization and inflammatory conditions such as dermatitis, acne and

rosacea,” adds Holey. Add in hot water (which is a solvent), plenty of foam and some
mechanical exfoliation and you’ve got a disrupted barrier that’s primed for irritation,
says Skotnicki. “We need to hammer home the idea that when you wash yourself,
whether it’s your face or your body, you’re damaging [your skin], so you want to wash
properly,” she says. h
ELLECANADA.COM 41
BEAUTY
PARR ALSO ADVOCATES THE PURGE

I think about washing my face
RETHINKING HOW
long before I get home. This
WE VIEW THE TASK OF is partly because as devoted
as I am to sunscreen, I really
CLEANSING AND NOT
look forward to removing it. I
SEEING IT AS SOMETHING also can’t wait to take off the
makeup that has migrated
TO GET OUT OF THE WAY.
below my eyes, into my fine
lines and under the bridge of
my glasses. My anticipation
also means that cleansing is
never the last thing I do before
going to sleep, when I’m more
likely to cut corners because
I’m dying to fall into bed. Plus,
The correct way, according to the experts, starts with cleansing less. The benefits of I enjoy the process, and that
this “are that you allow your body to build the barrier layer and let all the components only started for me when I
get to work: acid mantle, bacteria, lipid layer,” says Holey. “All of these parts protect learned about what the British
us and support healthy skin.” Both Holey and Skotnicki feel that cleansing in the call hot-cloth cleansing from
morning can be skipped entirely. “Your body worked hard to repair itself while you MV Organic Skincare founder
slept, so removing it all seems unnecessary,” says Holey of the skincare you applied Sharon McGlinchey. It involves
the night before. Washing at night, however, is imperative for removing makeup, applying a cleanser to dry
sunscreen and pollution. skin—I prefer balms, but an oil
Then there’s the question of what to use. Holey prefers oils—they’re all she uses will also do—and massaging
herself—and believes they work for all types of skin. “They can interact with our it in while it melts down all the
own oils, helping to remove debris or any clogged oil deep within the pore,” she says. product and grime on your
“Therefore they’re really good for breakout-prone skin.” Skotnicki doesn’t even use face. Next you take a warm,
water to wash her face anymore—only micellar cleanser—and would love everyone steamy washcloth, place it
to use a milk cleanser and steer clear of anything “heavily foaming.” over the face for five seconds
The problem with many cleansers is that they lather too much. “If you look at the and then gently wipe
majority of the non-oil-based ones on the market, the first ingredient is water and then everything away. This isn’t
the next four to five ingredients are surfactants,” says Parr, referring to the cleansing some thoughtless, slapdash
agents that remove dirt and oil from skin. “They’re all just huddled right there at the power wash done with
top of the ingredient deck, and that was a huge problem for me,” she says of the harsh, a wipe (no—never, ever).
stripping formulas. The four cleansers in her line all include oils, which she believes This technique makes the
are “a great way to whisk away debris” and “the best way” to remove makeup without whole step feel special
leaving the face feeling tight. and self-indulgent, and it
In addition to suggesting a different approach, Parr advocates rethinking how we underscores the importance
view the task of cleansing and not seeing it as something to get out of the way: “Most of the task. The blood gets
people see washing their face as just an annoying step, equating it with taking a shower circulating, and my skin feels
or brushing their teeth.” Instead, she says, we should treat it like a ritual that is to be sparkling clean but soft. The
done at the sink without being rushed through and to be enjoyed as much as applying day has been removed, my
a serum or cream. To drive that point home, Parr consciously refers to her brand’s face is back to its natural,
cleansers as “washes” to communicate a ceremonial aspect and the sense that they’re unencumbered state and all
higher end. “And I think it’s just a more beautiful word,” she adds. is right with the world. LH
Naturopathica Pai Skincare Light HoliFrog Kissimmee L’Occitane Cleansing Ren Clean Skincare Perfect Chanel Sublimage
Manuka Honey Work Rosehip Vitamin F Therapy Milk ($29). For details, see Canvas Clean L’Huile-en-Gel de
Cleansing Balm ($68) Cleansing Oil ($70) Balmy Wash ($55) Shopping Guide. Jelly Oil Cleanser ($42) Démaquillage ($140)
42 ELLECANADA.COM
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ELLECANADA.COM
HEALTH
Awake WIDE
If you’re desperate for better sleep, you’re not

alone. A slew of tech solutions promise to help,
but are they creating an entirely new problem?
By JENNIFER GEORGE
F
iona hasn’t had a good night’s
sleep in 22 years. It started
when her parents got divorced.
ADAPTED BY PATRICIA KAROUNOS; PHOTOGRAPHY, ARKAN ZAKHAROV
She wa s si x , a nd t he a n x iet y of
watching their marriage fall apart
manifested itself in long, sleepless
nights. By her teens, it could’ve been
hours—three, four, sometimes more—
before she fell asleep, and when she
did finally drop off, it was in valueless
half-hour stints through what was left
of the night. She thought it would stop
as she approached her 20s. It didn’t.
“The worst part was finally getting
into a deep sleep only to have the
alarm ring minutes later,” she says. h
44 ELLECANADA.COM
ELLECANADA.COM 45
HEALTH
Dorsey and Apple’s Tim Cook (nicknamed the

FOR DECADES, W E FETISHIZED “Sleepless Elite” by The Wall Street Journal).
But the main insomnia-enhancing culprit
T H O S E P OW E R F I G U R E S — S U C H appears to be circadian disruption. Your
ci rcad ia n rhy t h m—a 24 -hou r i nter na l
A S M A RT H A S T E WA RT, clock that runs in the background of your
brain—is primarily regulated by light, with
S T E V E J O B S A N D F OR M E R YA HO O ! photoreceptors in the eyes responding to
changes in light levels and communicating
CHIEF EXECUTIVE MARISSA directly with the part of your brain that
reg u lates t hat i nter na l clock. Wit h t he
M AY E R — W H O C L A I M E D T O N E E D major it y of us end lessly sur rounded by
artif icia l light, including the blue light
O N LY F O U R H O U R S O F S H U T- E Y E em it ted by ou r dev ices , ou r ci rc ad i a n
rhythms are shot. One study found that
A N I G H T. N O T A N Y M O R E . reading an e-book four hours before bed
for five nights in a row delayed the release
of the sleep-regulating hormone melatonin
by more than an hour and a half. Acutely
aware of the issue, 67 percent of Canadians
want better-quality sleep, according to the
For anyone who hasn’t experienced insomnia, it’s near- Canadian Sleep Review. This is where the world of sleep
impossible to imagine the frustration and pain of not being aids (consumer sleep technologies, or CSTs) comes in.
able to get a good night’s sleep. Once upon a time, we thought In 2009, one of the very first mass sleep aids hit the
throwing whale music, scientifically proportioned pillows and market. The Sleep Cycle app, created by a Swedish
hypnotizing aids at the problem would help. It didn’t. As a developer, purports to be able to track when someone is in
culture, few of us have understood the true value of deep REM (rapid eye movement, or deep sleep). Since then, the
sleep. For decades, we fetishized those power figures—such market has exploded. Phone apps have had the most success,
as Martha Stewart, Steve Jobs and former Yahoo! chief and, like Sleep Cycle, most work by utilizing your phone’s
executive Marissa Mayer—who claimed to need only four accelerometer (the technology that allows it to know when
hours of shut-eye a night. Not anymore. Sleep is now one of it’s being moved) and microphone to detect your movements,
the most studied health issues in the medical world (in 2017, which, depending on their strength and frequency, might
the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine went to three indicate how deep your sleep is. The idea is that you can use
scientists who identified the gene responsible for regulating this data to your advantage, such as knowing the optimal
our circadian rhythms), with disrupted sleep now thought to time to set your alarm and how to track your improvements.
be connected to everything from obesity to cancer. More than 20 years after her first bout of insomnia, Fiona,
The exact figures on insomnia are hard to pinpoint, now 28, turned to a sleep app. “I thought that monitoring
as so many cases go unreported or undiagnosed. (Such is my sleep would make me feel more settled and that if it
the lack of importance we have traditionally given to it.) was good quality or if I reached certain achievements,
But according to Statistics Canada, nearly one-quarter of such as the length or quality of sleep on the app, it would
Canadian adults experience symptoms of insomnia—an relieve some of the anxiety,” she admits. In fact, it did
increase of 42 percent since 2007. It makes sense, then, that the opposite: “I found myself number crunching every
the 2016 Canadian Sleep Review found that one in five morning. It became an unhealthy obsession. If I didn’t hit
Canadians have used prescription medications while 26 targets—enough sleep or deep sleep—I’d convince myself
percent have used over-the-counter medications to obtain I wouldn’t function as well that day.” This fed her neurosis,
or improve sleep. “We spent the 1980s and 1990s learning increasing her anxiety about sleep and further exacerbating
how to move and the 2000s learning about superfood and the initial problem. And so by collecting data to fight the
diet,” says Guy Meadows, co-founder and clinical director disorder that had plagued her her entire adult life, Fiona
at the Sleep School in London, England, who cites the three had unwittingly landed herself with another sleep-affected
pillars of health as movement, nutrition and sleep. “It’s only disorder: orthosomnia.
natural that once we have a grip on the first two, we focus Coined by a team of sleep experts in a 2017 paper in
on the third: sleep.” the Journal of Clinical Sleep Medicine, “orthosomnia” is a
Ironically, our new-found interest in sleep hygiene does fixation on having a perfect night’s slumber, which has been
not equate to us getting more of it. According to research, aggravated in recent years by the use of apps. The team
our average sleep duration has decreased over the past saw orthosomnia—which translates as “correct sleep”—
five decades, with about one-third of Canadians reporting occurring more and more in their clinics and flagged this in
sleeping for less than the recommended seven or eight hours their widely-picked-up medical paper. “We saw individuals
a night. There are a number of factors contributing to this, with mostly normal sleep who became obsessive about
the most obvious being longer working hours necessitated tracking data,” says Kelly Glazer Baron, one of the paper’s
by the rise of a “never off ” tech culture, the fallout from a authors and director of the behavioural sleep medicine
global recession and the glamorization of Silicon Valley’s program at the University of Utah. “But the more you try
high-achieving micro-sleepers, such as Twitter’s Jack to control your sleep, the worse it gets.”
46 ELLECANADA.COM
who is obsessed with their weight a scale, an instrument that

will make them hone in on their failures and flaws in their
quest for perfection. “Becoming obsessive about your sleep
hygiene (the habits and practices conducive to sleeping well) is
the problem,” says Meadows. “It’s actually about doing less.”
As our fixation with perfecting slumber grows, the sleep-
aid market, although still relatively new in the health world
when compared with diet and exercise, is estimated to be
worth $39.5 billion. That could buy you the world’s most
expensive bed—an $8.3-million hand-carved 24-karat-gold
number that, if you wish, can be accessorized with diamond
buttons—4,800 times over.
But it’s not just the amount of wealth there is to be made
from sleep apps (thanks to download charges and monthly
fees) that has developers salivating. It’s the potential for the
amount of data capture about you and your lifestyle that
they’re really excited about. “For the manufacturers, sleep
trackers are providing them with a huge amount of data,” says
neuroscientist and neuropsychology professor Gaby Badre.
“At best, this would be exploited to improve the CST.” But
at worst? With data now the most valuable commodity in the
world, the information sapped from your trackers (age, weight,
height, location, vocation, lifestyle, diet) could also be worth a
pretty penny to third-party companies that are longing to get
their hands on these sorts of personal details. Even if those
companies are not passing it on (always check the terms of
service), hackers could be poised to hijack it, as they have done
before with exercise tracker Fitbit.
Data theft aside, the main issue with these apps is that,
well, they’re not actually doing their job. Most in-phone apps
don’t have a way of truly identifying your level of sleep. “The
gold-standard method of measuring is to attach electrodes
to someone’s head to measure the brain’s electrical activity
to identify what’s happening,” says Meadows. “Beta waves
indicate light sleep; delta waves are a sign
of deep, rapid-eye-movement (or REM)
sleep. If you’re relying on an app that is just
THE ISSUE IS NOT THE TECHNOLOGY measuring movements, it’s purely making
assumptions based on movement alone.”
( L I K E R A D I O WAV E S O R E V E N B L U E That can create, as Meadows puts it, an
“endless game of tug-of-war” as you try to
L I G H T ) B U T T H E P S YC H O L O G I C A L C YC L E beat numbers that are likely redundant. If
you do have insomnia, the way to face it is
THESE A PPS CA N TR IG GER. USERS A R E SO by dealing with the cause of it rather than
trying to cheat it with aids.
O B S E S S E D W I T H DATA T H AT T H E Y ’ R E The truth is, true insomniacs need to
find the root of the cause through a sleep
S T R E S S I N G T H E M S E LV E S O U T O F S L E E P. doctor or psychiatrist. This might lead to
cognitive behavioural therapy, focusing
on coping mechanisms and changing
the course of thinking. But for those just
wanting to improve their current sleep
patterns, “mind-body therapies” such
The issue is not the technology (like radio waves or as meditation and yoga have been found to be the most
even blue light) but the psychological cycle these apps can scientifically approved ways to help with sleep.
trigger. Users are so obsessed with data that they’re stressing As for Fiona, ditching the apps led to an immediate
themselves out of sleep. Due to the correlation between a improvement in her anxiety and obsession with sleep. No more
quest for perfection and health, it’s comparable to orthorexia, monitoring, no more number crunching, no more being told
where obsessive levels of healthy eating lead to weight- by her phone that she was failing. Insomnia still occasionally
loss issues (which is why Baron and her peers named the sneaks in uninvited, but more often than not, she relishes nights
condition “orthosomnia”). Think about it: Giving someone full of what she feels is deep, blissful sleep. And she hasn’t got
the means to track their sleep is not unlike giving someone an app to tell her otherwise.
ELLECANADA.COM 47
ELLE Guide
The
48 ELLECANADA.COM
How to
Do Fragrance
Differently
Though we’ve been treated to decades of

pretty campaigns making sweet promises,
scent is actually the most visceral sense
of all. It’s time to shake up your ideas about
what you’re spritzing on every morning.
Here are some unexpected trailblazers
vthat will make you feel alive again.
PHOTOGRAPHY, GEOFFREY ROSS
ELLECANADA.COM 49
How to Do Fragrance Differently
A perfume
OF one’s OWN
Neela Vermeire
Ashoka Eau de
MEET THREE WOMEN WHO ARE
Parfum Spray
($301 for 60 mL,
DOING SCENT THEIR WAY. Olear Chakras Kit
neelavermeire.com) ($357 for a seven-pack
of 10 mL roll-ons,
olear-scents.com)
THE CONNECTOR THE HEALER
Neela Vermeire Tatiana Godoy Betancur

INDIA’S AROMATIC LANDSCAPE—with its indigenous flowers, “I DON’T CONSIDER myself a perfumer,” says Tatiana Godoy
woods and spices—has long been a source of inspiration for per- Betancur. In addition to feeling that “the world of perfume can be
fumers. “India has been romanticized by many [fragrance] brands elitist,” the Colombian-born nose says that her oil-based roll-on
from the West,” says Neela Vermeire, founder of her namesake scents housed in small frosted-glass vials can be worn as perfume
perfume line. But Vermeire, who was born in Kolkata, says these but “are meant to be experienced as more,” making them seem
brands always fall short, simply scratching the surface to provide more adjacent to breath work and sound baths than the shouty
an outsider’s version of India. “My fragrances tell India’s scent sillages of many conventional fragrances. Godoy Betancur
story from the inside,” she says. Armed with a background in law didn’t study traditional perfumery; instead, she attended the
and a love of perfume, she enlisted Bertrand Duchaufour, the New York Institute for Aromatic Studies to fuel her interest in
nose behind several bestselling L’Artisan Parfumeur fragrances, the relationship between essential oils and emotional well-being
to help turn her ideas into scents like Mohur, a blend of rose and after using aromatherapy to help her through her father’s death.
oud, Bombay Bling, which has notes of mango and jasmine, In 2014, she launched Olear, her Brooklyn, N.Y., olfactive studio,
and the award-winning Ashoka, which is infused with lotus named for the Spanish word for “making waves.” She blends
and sandalwood. They all pay tribute to Vermeire’s olfactory bespoke scents for individual clients, and the subtle fragrances
heritage and “reflect Indian history, historical figures and places in her ready-to-wear collection—inspired by the seven energy
while being classically French in their execution,” she says. Other houses of the body and designed to stimulate and support the
elements of the brand also capture the marriage of France and chakras—are infused with botanicals like juniper, bergamot
ELLE Guide
India, such as the bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, who has and carrot seed and formulated without synthetic ingredients
sketched vessels for hundreds of perfumes, including YSL Opium or preservatives. For wellness seekers looking for alternatives to
and Calvin Klein Eternity. At first glance, Vermeire’s bottle looks burning white sage or palo santo (which is not a bad idea in light
a little like a modern-day version of the Madame Rochas flacon of recent debates around overharvesting and cultural appro-
Dinand conceived in 1960. But, as Vermeire points out, there’s priation), Godoy Betancur’s latest project may be of particular
a defining difference: The 24 ridges in the glass symbolize the interest: She’s been grinding woods, resins and leaves gathered
24 spokes of the Ashoka chakra that decorates the country’s flag. during her travels to make her own incense.
The
50 ELLECANADA.COM
SHAKE IT UP
THE GENIUS ITEMS PUSHING
PERFUME CREATIVITY.
GOLD STANDARD
Never be without your signature scent
again: Strangelove dreamed up a perfume
necklace after creative director Helena
Christensen learned that natural body
heat can greatly enhance scent. The brand
filled a 24-karat-gold-plated charm with
its signature Melt My Heart scent (among
others) and hung it on a 24-inch chain
to create what just might be the perfect
accessory. Strangelove Pure Perfume Oil
Necklace ($343, strangelovenyc.com)
ALL AGES
The temporary tattoos we all grew up
with just got a very chic upgrade thanks to
Diptyque’s new scented stickers. Place these
floral- or swan-shaped silhouettes on the
insides of your wrists or at the base of your
neck for a feminine look and a scent that
lingers. Diptyque Perfumed Stickers ($74 for a
Monsillage Celery
Water Eau de Toilette pack of five, at Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com)
Spray ($105 for 50 mL,
monsillage.com)
DRAW IT ON
Chanel’s new perfume pens are packaged
THE RISK-TAKER just like the pastel crayons of your youth.
Isabelle Michaud They might provide a creative push to

experiment with layering the Chance Eau
Tendre or the classic Chanel Chance scent,
AFTER STUDYING CRIMINOLOGY, copywriting for a greeting-card and they’ll certainly look good tucked into
company and making and selling artisanal soaps, Isabelle Michaud your clutch. Chanel Fragrance Pens
had a mid-life career crisis that culminated in her selling her ($99 for a pack of four, chanel.com)
Toronto condo to move to Versailles and go to perfume school. She
returned home to launch her own fragrance collection, Monsillage, BOLD MOVES
becoming one of the country’s handful of perfumers. Despite her If you’re more of a makeup junkie than
year of formal training, Michaud explains, her style isn’t actually a fragrance devotee, look no further
in step with traditional French perfumery. Take one of her more than luxury brand Kilian’s 10 new scented
unexpected scents, Celery Water, which won her an Art and lipsticks—which include notes of marsh-
Olfaction Award, the Independent Spirit Awards of perfumery. mallow, honeysuckle, rose and orange
“The essential oil you find on the market smells like cooked celery, blossom—just added to its cult-fave range
but I wanted it to smell fresh: crisp, green and very fibrous,” she of six reds. Each hue is ultra-saturated and
says. The result is a blend of coriander, galbanum, vetiver and a moisturizing, so your look will last well into
little bit of grapefruit. While French perfumery generally favours the night. Kilian Le Rouge Parfum lipstick
florals with romantic narratives to match, Michaud believes that ($70, at Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com)
“the Canadian perfumer is more real, more anchored in nature
and not as much in the dream of romance.” Our country’s wealth IN THE BAG
of natural resources has also influenced her ingredient choices. The iconic Fendi Baguette bag just got an
“We’re really into forest notes and woodsy notes,” she says. In aromatic upgrade: The brand is releasing a
fact, she created her own driftwood accord when she couldn’t limited-edition version that is actually scented
find anything suitable. That commitment to her roots earned her with a unisex fragrance that promises to
another point of patriotic pride: a seal of approval from Sophie stay in the leather for up to three years.
Grégoire Trudeau, who sent Michaud a thank-you note after FendiFrenesia Scented Baguette (price upon
receiving a Monsillage scent from a friend. SARAH DANIEL request, fendi.com) CHRISTINA TOURLOUKIS
ELLECANADA.COM 51
Frankincense
TRY: Goutal Paris Encens
Flamboyant Eau de Parfum
WHY: Three variations of
frankincense notes create
a velvety soft fragrance,
calling to mind a balmy
evening in a faraway mys-
tical land. ($225 for 100 mL,
at Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.
com, and Hudson’s Bay,
thebay.com)
LOOK AHEAD
HOW DO YOU FEEL WHEN
YOU SMELL YOUR ONCE-
SIGNATURE SCENT?
S
cent is wrapped around memory
more tightly than the low-rise
jeans I wore in university. Science
has confirmed that fact, but I live it every
time I catch a whiff of Jean Paul Gaultier’s
Classique. I used to spritz on the sweet,
heady juice every time I went out in
university—which is to say every night
except Monday—so I’d recognize its notes
of vanilla and orange blossom anywhere.
And I often do, say, on a crowded train
platform, at a bar while squeezing in to
order a drink or while studiously watching
the numbers tick up in an elevator. It’s
said that a lingering smell from long ago
can break open a powerful aching for
your past, but Classique mostly just makes
me want to puke. Its sexy blush-toned,
bust-shaped bottle was like a signifier of
the womanhood I had reached with my
body but not my mind. The scent seemed
like the epitome of refinement at a time
in my life when I thought it was okay to
describe something as “classy.” In fact, Jean
Paul Gaultier’s iconic fragrance has the
intoxicating attributes that defined much
of the early aughts: It was expensive and
deliciously basic—before “basic” was a
buzzword. It was a Juicy Couture track suit
and a $5 latte before there was a Starbucks
on every corner. While wearing that scent, I
made so many stupid choices and had the
kind of fun I can’t hope to have again—and
just a hint of the aroma brings back years
of screaming and dancing and crying and
laughing that collect at the back of my
ELLE Guide
throat in a ball so big I nearly gag. I smell

it less and less often these days—another
reminder that my past is slipping away. But
most days, that’s okay. I don’t need that
suggestive glass bust to help me pretend to
be a woman anymore; I’ve become one.
KATE SOMERVILLE
The
52 ELLECANADA.COM
LEAN in
THE SURPRISING HERO NOTES IN
THIS SEASON’S HOTTEST LAUNCHES
WILL KEEP YOU GUESSING.
Chai Chocolate Geranium

TRY: Libertine Gilded TRY: Euphoria Blush TRY: Aerin Wild Geranium
WHY: This unisex by Calvin Klein Fragrance
fragrance includes notes WHY: Decadent WHY: Geranium’s peppery
of green cardamom, chocolate notes come character imparts a
cinnamon bark, brown together with hits blooming complexity
sugar and immortelle, of sweet raspberry to this fragrance, which
which together are and blooming rose is more evocative of a
about as warming as to effectively deliver wild garden than your
a steaming cup of tea Valentine’s Day in a grandma’s tidy florals.
and some softly burning bottle. ($119 for 100 ($150 for 50 mL, at Holt
incense. ($120 for 30 mL, mL, at drugstores and Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com,
libertine-fragrance.com) mass-market retailers) and Sephora, sephora.ca)
Saffron Lavender Dragon fruit

TRY: Eric Buterbaugh TRY: Jo Malone London TRY: YSL Beauty
Los Angeles Oud Lavenderland Black Opium Eau
Saffron Flower Eau WHY: This limited- de Parfum Neon
de Parfum edition triad of WHY: YSL’s newest
WHY: Saffron—the fragrances accentuates iteration of Black Opium
world’s most costly spice lavender with wisteria, uses dragon fruit to inject
by weight—meets oud silver birch and a fizzy acidity into the
to create an ambery coriander to cast three signature juice. Simply
oriental scent enhanced new, moody visions of put, if fuchsia had a scent,
by honey. ($250 for 100 the English countryside. this would be it. ($135 for
mL, at Saks Fifth Avenue, ($72 for 30 mL each, at 75 mL, yslbeauty.ca)
saksfifthavenue.com) Jo Malone boutiques) MELISSA PERDIGAO
ELLECANADA.COM 53
ALL hail the

UNLIKELY QUEEN of
celebrity FRAGRANCE
PARIS HILTON’S 16-YEAR PERFUME
LEGACY IS EXTREMELY...HOT.
BY NOW, THE LONG LIST of possible post-reality-TV career trajectories—U.S.

president, chart-topping rapper, beauty mogul—should surprise absolutely no
one. Anything is possible in 2020! Just ask the blond, bronzed icon whose claim
to fame, circa 2004, was crafting clever excuses to skip work on episodes of The
Simple Life. (“Just do everything wrong because then you won’t be asked to
do it again,” she once wisely educated a child in her care.) Sixteen years later,
Paris Hilton sits atop a perfume empire that has sold over $2.65 billion worth
of fragrance. What happened in between? The launch of 25 of the bestselling
celebrity fragrances on the market, with names ranging from Siren to Tease to
Dazzle to, of course, Heiress. There’s even one she dedicated to her loyal fanbase,
called With Love. (The fact that there isn’t one called Iconic is truly a crime.)
Her first, the simply titled Paris Hilton for Women, is a fruity-floral mix of
peach nectar, jasmine and ylang-ylang that simultaneously evokes memories of
middle-school formals and nights spent poorly mixing Cosmopolitans in your
parents’ basement. It’s the entire decade of the 2000s encased in one swirly
bright-pink bottle—which, come to think of it, could be a good descriptor
for Hilton herself.
Her latest, Electrify, is a nod to her “DJ lifestyle, her love of music, dance and
living in the moment,” according to the press release. And in case you haven’t
heard her spin in Ibiza recently, Hilton is also a successful DJ on the festival
circuit, having played massive audiences around the world for years. She credits
those crowds with being her inspiration for the notes of red apple, peony, vanilla
and sandalwood encased in Electrify’s slick pink bottle—so let’s ignore
the fact that concertgoers tend to be extremely sweaty and prone to BO.
“I wanted to capture that feeling in a scent and celebrate the confident
woman who is the life of the party,” she says in a release. Hilton has
always been the life of the party: Let’s not forget that her entry into the
collective consciousness was through a series of paparazzi shots and a
ELLE Guide
Vanity Fair profile detailing her and sister Nicky Hilton’s underaged
and debaucherous exploits on the nightclub scene.
We’ve come a long way since then—and by that I mean we’ve
gone from discounting reality stars with a laugh to laying our money
at their feet. Back when Hilton launched her first fragrance, the
question we were all asking was: Do women really want to smell like Electrify for Women
By Paris Hilton Eau
Paris Hilton? Today, more than a billion dollars later, it’s: When is de Parfum Spray
($79 for 100 mL, at
she going to collab with Kylie Jenner? RANDI BERGMAN perfumania.com)
The
54 ELLECANADA.COM
PARIS HILTON’S
2000S-ERA STYLE
Polyester dress,
PrettyLittleThing ($88,
prettylittlething.com);
faux-leather handbag,
Poppy & Peonies ($89,
poppyandpeonies.com)
Velour hoodie, Lilly Pulitzer

($160, at Saks Fifth Avenue,
saksfifthavenue.com); nylon
vest, Aritzia (aritzia.com)
Acetate sunglasses, Bonlook

($149, bonlook.com); cotton hat,
Goorin Bros. ($159, goorin.com)
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (P. HILTON)
ELLECANADA.COM 55
HOW TO FIND A
SIGNATURE SCENT
IN 2020
HINT: IT’S ALL IN YOUR HEAD.
T
he quest to nose out a signature
scent can be dizzying: It involves
wading through thousands of
notes in infinite combinations and trying to
pinpoint the exact blend that encompasses
who you are, how people see you and
who you want to be. Thankfully, this spring,
Guerlain is launching a new experiential
innovation that promises to help you
find your ideal essence in only three
minutes, effectively rescuing us all from the
frustrating work of sniffing bottle after bottle.
Born from a collab between Guerlain
and researchers at the University of
Nantes in France, Mindscent uses
electroencephalographic sensors to
essentially read your mind. It’s as easy as
wearing a headset that measures your
brainwaves in response to four distinct
fragrance families: fresh, floral, oriental and
woody. It then interprets four emotional
states—excitement, relaxation, boredom
and frustration—to figure out which scent
triggers the most positive reaction. Whizz
through a short personality quiz while
looking at a series of images and the
technology then reveals your top matches
from the house’s impressive library of
110 fragrances and, importantly, helps
crystallize your innate preferences, which
can guide your scent shopping at any
boutique. (Customers can take this tech
for a gratis spin at Guerlain counters in Holt
Renfrew stores across Canada.) Whether
this experience ultimately confirms existing
preferences or surprises you with an
ELLE Guide
unexpected suggestion, it will no doubt feel

good to get out of your head. ERICA NGAO
The
56 ELLECANADA.COM
YOU never FORGET

YOUR first
A LOVE LETTER TO
SCRATCH- AND-SNIFF STICKERS.
WHEN I WAS six years old, my fragrance wardrobe used in business forms. In this case, he was working
included root beer, skunk and pepperoni pizza. These with ink, but seeing the technology’s potential for use
synthetic scents infused my collection of scratch-and- in other industries, 3M merged microencapsulation
sniff stickers featuring cartoonish foods and objects with perfume oil and coined its trademarked technol-
that, when rubbed, set free an aromatic replica of the ogy Microfragrance. The result: Scented spheres stay
real thing. Mirroring what my mother did when she intact, only rupturing when scratched.
applied her Paloma Picasso perfume, I daubed a freshly Plenty of companies used 3M’s technology to make
scratched sticker on my neck and the insides of my the spate of smelly stickers that started appearing
wrists and discovered that the scent transferred to my in the ’70s, but my favourites were Stinky Stickers,
skin. The breakthrough gave me a library of fragrances made by Minnesota-based Trend Enterprises, whose
at my fingertips: cinnamon hearts, pink bubble gum, silly illustrations and huge range of scents won me
banana split and peppermint. And for the days when over. Founder Kay Fredericks, a kindergarten teacher
I was feeling more experimental, there was freshly cut turned entrepreneur, saw scratch-and-sniffs as a way to
grass, black licorice and gasoline, foreshadowing a future reward students after spelling tests and math quizzes,
penchant for D.S. & Durga fragrances. These stickers pairing positive reinforcement with scents like pickle
were G-rated stand-ins for the adult perfumes I wasn’t (Dill-ightful!), pine tree (You’re Tops!) and ice cream
yet allowed to wear, and the photo album that stored (Scooper Dooper!). For a while, companies like Trend
them was like a portable vanity: I’d carefully peel back sold their stickers mainly to teachers, but sticker collecting
the page’s protective cover to make my daily fragrance soon became the hobby of ’80s kids everywhere, and
selection—or a schoolyard trade. scratch-and-sniffs (along with puffies, googly eyes and
I may have been weird for using scented stickers furries, as we called them) became the de facto currency
as perfume in 1983, but I wasn’t too far off the mark: in elementary-school hallways. I like to think that some
Scratch-and-sniff stickers are descendants of first-gen- of the appeal behind scratch-and-sniff stickers was that
eration fragrance inserts in magazines. One of the for a generation of kids who spent a lot of time in front
originals—a sample of Coty’s Imprévu—appeared of a TV screen watching cartoons, they provided a
in a 1967 issue of McCall’s. “Scratch the surface grounding moment, engaging another sense entirely.
several times with your fingernail. Sniff. Ahhhh,” Preteen scents like Exclamation eventually replaced
the ad suggested. Microencapsulation, the science my scratch-and-sniff fragrance wardrobe, but even after
behind this feat, involves encasing a tiny particle in a all this time, I’m still wishing that someone would create
protective coating like plastic or gelatin, and it was the a perfume that smells of roller-skate leather, like one of
brainchild of chemist Gale Matson, who worked for my most prized stickers, which I foolishly traded with an
3M, the company that gave the world Post-it Notes. older kid who talked me into swapping it for a Pac-Man
Matson’s breakthrough came when he was looking for puffy. Equal parts odd and nostalgic, it’s the one scent
a way to eliminate the need for the messy carbon paper my current fragrance collection is missing. SARAH DANIEL
ELLECANADA.COM 57
CAREER
All WORK
No PLAY Is our culture’s
advice to “follow your
passion” leading
our careers astray?
By WING SZE TANG
IN ONE OF MY FIRST MAGAZINE JOBS, I arrived on day one to find a desk

stacked with apparently forgotten layouts, all of which needed to be copy-edited
by a near-impossible deadline. That week, I stayed well past midnight many
nights, clocking major overtime—unpaid, of course—to show I had the zeal
to succeed. After all, I’d grown up with “Follow your passion” as a vague but
thrilling life plan and I’d been offered a key to the industry of my dreams.
Long hours at entry-level pay just seemed like the price of unlocking the door.
My mindset was the same as practically all of the Canadian teens surveyed
in 2015 by the RBC Youth Optimism Study: 93 percent of 14- to 25-year-olds
said that having a fulfilling job is important to them. (American teens surveyed
by the Pew Research Center in 2018 rated it even higher, at 95 percent.) So
I stayed late at the office, regularly eating dinners at my desk, and then went
home to write freelance stories on the side—because who needs sleep? “Choose
a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life,” preach
the Insta-philosophers, but in real life, work is no vacation—even if you love
it. I thought passion meant being 100 percent dedicated, 100 percent of the
time, no matter how overloaded I was. Unsurprisingly, I soon burned out.
“Passion exploitation” is the term for the kind of experience I had, accord-
ing to research published last year in the Journal of Personality and Social
PHOTOGRAPHY, OWEN BRUCE
Psychology: The studies showed that people consider it acceptable to take

advantage of those who feel passionate about their job—by, say, asking them
to put in extra hours for free. Emotionally invested employees are assumed to
experience work as its own reward, so if they’re only getting “passion pay” (a
phrase, coined in Korea, for low wages given to eager young workers), well,
that’s reasonable because they must also be having a ton of fun. h
58 ELLECANADA.COM
ELLECANADA.COM 59
CAREER
THE PURSUIT
OF PURPOSE
IT WASN’T ALWAYS THIS WAY: In fact, the concept of a passion-centred
career is relatively modern. When assembly-line jobs began rolling out,
Henry Ford told his employees that the point of work was simply work
and that fun had its place—afterwards, at home. “It is high time to
rid ourselves of the notion that leisure for workmen is either ‘lost
time’ or a class privilege,” the American industrialist said while
instituting shorter workweeks (40 hours, down from 48) in 1926.
Back then, “people understood that you didn’t have to love or
enjoy work,” says Jae Yun Kim, Duke University Ph.D. grad
and lead author of the research on passion exploitation. “But
nowadays, there is a cultural pressure that prioritizes work
as a place where you need to find meaning.”
That messaging is served up everywhere, from inspir-
ational movies geared toward all ages (in Ratatouille,
a rat seeks to prove he isn’t a pest by becoming a
top chef ) to Instagram quotes (“The only way to
do great work is to love what you do.” – Steve
Jobs) to magazine articles lionizing entrepreneurs
(“I follow my nerdy passions,” Karlie Kloss declares on
a Fast Company cover that urges the reader to “FIND
YOUR PURPOSE”). Today, “So, what do you do?”
is the least creative icebreaker at any given party;
it assumes work is what defines us.
60 ELLECANADA.COM
This conviction is specific to certain cultures, explains Paul O’Keefe,

assistant professor of psychology at Yale-NUS College in Singapore, who
has done research into how we develop interests. In many Asian countries, a
“collectivist” attitude is common: People think of themselves as connected to
others, like their family. So if Mom and Dad dream of you becoming a doctor
or lawyer, that holds a lot of sway. But in the West, our mindset is “individ-
ualist” and the pressure to follow our passion fits neatly with that notion. “It
celebrates this very North American or European idea: ‘I am different from
other people, and part of my purpose in life is to find something that fulfills
me,’” says O’Keefe.
The concept narrows our view of how we can achieve happiness and can
set us up for frustration (what happens if you don’t know what you want to
be when you grow up?), but it has become a compelling motivational mantra
because we link work to self-worth. In fact, for many raised in this career-
focused culture, even taking a little time off can be guilt-inducing. A 2016 survey
in the U.S. found that “work martyrs”—employees who forgo vacations to
show total dedication to their jobs—are overwhelmingly millennials. And not
only is this generation more likely to make sacrifices for their jobs but nearly
half said it’s a good thing to be considered a work martyr by their managers.
CAUTION: LEARNING
CURVE AHEAD
NORMALIZING A NON-STOP SCHEDULE isn’t the only problem with the pursuit
of passion. Crucially, it makes us believe the myth that answering our one true
calling will be easy, just as soon as we figure out what it is. “Saying ‘Find your
passion’ is like saying there’s a treasure chest out there and you just need to
find it,” says O’Keefe. “And once you do—blammo! It’s all there, 100 percent,
ready to go. That’s just not how interests work.” Rather, your passion can be
cultivated (what psychologists call “growth theory”), which seems like stating
the obvious to anyone who’s ever picked up a new skill, like boxing or hip-hop
dancing—there’s usually a steep learning curve before you love it.
But some of us buy into the idea that our core interests are like our hair
colour: We’re born with them. (This is known as “fixed theory.”) There are a
bunch of other beliefs that go hand in hand with that, suggests research led by
O’Keefe and published in Psychological Science. For instance, you’d be less
open to exploring new interests outside of what you’re already into. Suppose
you’re a fine-arts grad who would like physics too—but you don’t give the
latter a chance, ignoring a possible alternative career path. Or perhaps you’re
what Emilie Wapnick, author of How to Be Everything: A Guide for Those
Who Still Don’t Know What They Want to Be When They Grow Up, dubs
a “multipotentialite”: someone with lots of diverse passions who would be
creatively stifled by a narrowly focused life.
Those who think their interests are innate and locked in are also more
likely to assume that doing what they love will be no sweat. “It’s magical
thinking: Once you find your passion, it’s going to come with limitless motiv-
ation. Makes it easy, right?” says O’Keefe. So when things get hard—and
they always do—these people are quicker to lose interest. After all, if it’s too
gruelling, maybe it wasn’t their real passion after all.
That’s why the well-meaning advice given by career counsellors every-
where could ultimately end in failure: “Urging people to find their passion
may lead them to put all their eggs in one basket but then to drop that basket
when it becomes difficult to carry,” write the researchers in the Psychological
Science paper. h
ELLECANADA.COM 61
“Urging people to find their

passion may lead them to
put all their eggs in one basket.”
PLAY THE LONG GAME

TO BE CLEAR, NO ONE’S arguing passion is bad. “When we think about the
healthiest things that could spark motivation, what could be better than one’s
own deep interest?” asks O’Keefe. “That’s healthier than being motivated
by fear.” Likewise, if doing what you love doesn’t come with burnout levels of
overwork, it can bring about greater well-being. Multiple studies, for example,
link the pursuit of passion with lower rates of stress and depression.
But consider that a deep interest doesn’t have to be your reason to rise
and grind. “Psychologists have done a lot of work on what motivates people,
and they discovered that the things you love to do—and would do whether
or not somebody paid you—become less enjoyable when you are paid to do
them,” says Joanne B. Ciulla, a professor at New Jersey’s Rutgers Business
School and the author of The Working Life: The Promise and Betrayal of
Modern Work. You could be an avid home cook who would hate toiling in
a restaurant, for example. Her advice: “Figure out how to set up your life so
you can pursue your passion, but it doesn’t have to be what you get paid for.”
As for my own career, I still do what I love, but I’m no longer willing
to back-burner everything else that makes life fascinating and fun. So I’ve
PHOTOGRAPHY,
chosen a boss who doesn’t want a work martyr: me. Now, several years into
freelancing, I haven’t abandoned the idea of following my passion as a life
plan—I just know there are plenty of places to find it off the clock.
62 ELLECANADA.COM
HOW TO FIND
YOUR PASSION
Feeling lost?
Just listen to the pros.
STAY DISTRACTION-FREE.
Haven’t been able to figure out
what your passion is? Maybe
that’s just because you haven’t
given yourself the time or space
to actually think about it, says
Angela Duckworth, a psychologist
and the author of Grit. True, not
all of our “distractions” (kids,
work deadlines) are avoidable,
she admits, but evaluate the ones
that are negotiable (hi, Instagram)
and figure out where you can take
back some of your time.
FOLLOW YOUR CURIOSITY.

We know what you’re thinking:
Pursuing that hobby you’re
vaguely curious about is not the
same as finding a career you’re
passionate about. But when
bestselling author Elizabeth
Gilbert was struggling to write—
what she told Oprah.com is her
only true passion—her follow-up
to Eat, Pray, Love, she...couldn’t.
Heeding the wise words of a
friend, she put writing aside and
took up gardening, which kept
her mind occupied. Six months
of low-stakes activity later
(and with a few ripe tomatoes
as a bonus), Gilbert’s passion
returned; she has since penned
four more books.
HONE YOUR SKILLS.

Don’t feel bad if you’re stuck
working a job you’re not at all
passionate about. Cal Newport,
a professor at Georgetown
University in Washington, D.C.,
doesn’t believe that everyone
is born with a passion, which
he outlines in his book So Good
They Can’t Ignore You. Instead,
Newport suggests, we should
all be developing our inherent
skill set. The better you are at
something the more valuable
you become, which you can turn
into something satisfying. In this
case, practice does indeed make
perfect. PATRICIA KAROUNOS
ELLECANADA.COM 63
ENTER
PHOTOGRAPHY, OWEN BRUCE
64 ELLECANADA.COM
TECHNOLOGY
the
MATRIX Exceptionally talented women who

are changing the face of AI in Canada.
LAYLA EL ASRI
“I’m the only one in my family who studied the sciences,” says 31-year-old Layla
El Asri, research team lead at Canadian research centre Borealis AI. “I was never
really pushed in that direction.” The France native’s “geeky” side developed when
she watched her older brother try to build his own computer. “His enthusiasm for
technology was contagious. I quickly understood that this world was accessible to
me even though I had never even come close to doing anything programming
related.” A lab internship involving the use of artificial intelligence to help dyslexic
children sealed the deal for El Asri’s career trajectory, and she never looked
back, eventually going on to spend two years working for Microsoft in Montreal.
Today, she specializes in research on natural language processing. “We’re trying
to create algorithms that understand language regardless of what language is
being spoken,” she says, pointing to voice-recognition systems, like Siri, that we
speak to in a natural way. The machine learns to pair the sound with the word
and then transcribe it. If it has been previously trained, it also perceives the various
accents and tones of language. But this type of programming is far from perfect.
Remember the video—which has had more than two million views—of the little
girl asking Alexa to play “Baby Shark” with no success? The problem was, says El
Asri, that the smart device couldn’t understand children. “To fix this, the machine
had to be retrained, this time to integrate children’s speech patterns,” she
explains. While a person can discern the subtleties of language in a conversation,
be it humour or irony, robots aren’t quite there. Machine learning still has a long
way to go, which will certainly keep El Asri very busy. ANNIE LABRECQUE h
ELLECANADA.COM 65
TECHNOLOGY
PHOTOGRAPHY, OWEN BRUCE, MCGILL UNIVERSITY (D. PRECUP) & FACEBOOK (J. PINEAU)
66 ELLECANADA.COM
Doina Precup, head of Google’s artificial-intelligence subsidiary DeepMind Montreal, grew up in Communist
Romania, and she doesn’t remember there being a gender disparity in engineering. “There were just as
many women as men in computer science and mathematics,” says the 48-year-old, who is also an associate
professor of computer science at McGill University. In her early teens, Precup was passionate about sci-fi
novels. She especially liked the Robot series by Isaac Asimov (from which Will Smith’s I, Robot was adapted),
which she has since reread with her three children. “[The books] led to interesting discussion, not just about
artificial intelligence but also about the nature of it and the significance of human beings.” She left Romania
to do her Ph.D. in the United States and joined McGill in 2000 as an assistant professor—at which point she
DOINA PRECUP realized how few women were in the AI occupations. “It baffled me that only 10 or 15 percent of the people
working here were women,” she says. So, how do we even begin to work toward gender parity? Aware of the
challenges women face in the field, Precup founded the AI4Good project in 2017 with the goal of improving
diversity in the industry through a series of conferences and workshops led by AI experts. “It helps people move
from theory to practice and also, above all, develop a social network.” AL
JOELLE PINEAU
Forty-five-year-old Montrealer Joelle Pineau could

have been a professional musician. She played
the viola at the Conservatoire de musique de
Gatineau until she was 18 before deciding to focus
her attention on engineering. Driven by her own
curiosity, she pursued robotics, algorithms and AI.
Today, she splits her time between her positions
ANGELICA LIM
as associate professor at McGill University and
director of the Facebook Artificial Intelligence
Research Laboratory in Montreal. Her specialty is Angelica Lim couldn’t stay away from Canada even
reinforcement learning, which she describes as if she tried. The 36-year-old grew up in Vancouver
“a particular aspect of the artificial-intelligence and completed her undergraduate degree at
technique used to enable machines to make Simon Fraser University (SFU) before spending a
decisions.” One area of her work that’s close to decade abroad to study and work. “During that time,
her heart is applications related to health, where I kept seeing Vancouver ranked as one of the most
Pineau sees so much potential for AI. She spent years wonderful places to live, so I came back,” says Lim,
working on one project, a prototype for a “smart” who is now an assistant professor at her alma mater.
motorized wheelchair. “It’s a classic wheelchair with When she did finally return, it was with an impressive
the addition of all kinds of sensors and computers range of experience. Lim first became interested in
so that it can navigate autonomously and avoid AI while in her third year of university. One of her first
obstacles,” she says, adding that she hopes to projects involved making software that could break
one day see a commercialized version. She’s also CAPTCHAs—you know, those security prompts
involved in other AI projects that could help people asking you to choose specific images to prove
with epilepsy, diabetes or cancer. Pineau would also that you, human, are not a robot. She later moved
love to see more women in the field. “I hope more to Japan to do her master’s and Ph.D., working on
women are coming,” she says. “But I’ve been saying building robots that were capable of multimodal-
this for the past 20 years or so, and the situation is cue detection (teaching them to understand non-
not changing very quickly.” McGill University has verbal gestures and behaviours). Eventually, she
a program in place in which computer science is landed in Paris, working at SoftBank Robotics as a
paired with other disciplines: mathematics, biology, software engineer on a humanoid robot named
physics and psychology. “Students take their first Pepper. It’s now used all over the world (you’ve likely
course in computer science, and if they like it, they seen the white and grey bot with weirdly friendly
add a second course and then a third. Eventually, glowing blue eyes), performing automated tasks
they may end up taking an interest in a field they at hotels and reception desks. Today, Lim leads the
hadn’t thought about at the beginning of their ROSIE Lab at SFU, building robots that are meant
studies.” AL to have social intelligence and empathy. Her focus
is on building machine-learning algorithms that
help robots understand, well, us. “When I was first
introduced to AI, I was fascinated by how humans
understand the world, think and learn—and I still
PHOTOGRAPHY,
am,” she says. “It’s exciting to think about how we

might formalize that knowledge in machines
through AI.” PATRICIA KAROUNOS
ELLECANADA.COM 67
LIFE
68 ELLECANADA.COM
F A R
F R O M
T H E
T R E E
Why HEATHER O’NEILL cut

off her family after a lifetime of
toxic relationships and hurt.
WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT HOW FAMILY IS IMPORTANT and the most
valuable thing in life, I roll my eyes. After my father’s death, five years ago, I cut off
my entire family. As my personality bloomed, my only regret was that I hadn’t done
it years before.
There is a massive cultural campaign that extols the virtue of family, suggesting that
it should be—if the plot lines of a plethora of feel-good movies are to be believed—the
most significant aspect of your life. But in films, dysfunctional families are adorable
and funny. They resolve their problems before the credits roll, and the new-found
harmony makes them richer and more fulfilled, which takes the edge off their neuroses
and eccentricities. Even in movies about the mafia, the redeeming quality is that the
criminals are attached to their extended family, as if this makes them compassionate—
lovable even. If they didn’t have their family network, they would be nothing more
than serial killers after all.
The other day, I brought up the fact that I’d cut out toxic family members to a social
worker, Elspeth Sparling, who I am friendly with. I braced myself, thinking that my
decision was so anomalous that she’d inform me that family ties are worth working on
at any cost. However, she approved of the idea in certain circumstances: “When you’re
being abused and seriously emotionally damaged by a family member, cut that person
out,” she said simply. “Family behavioural patterns repeat themselves, and you carry
those destructive patterns with you to the next generation. You are allowed a fresh start;
you can say ‘No, I am not part of this chaos and dysfunction anymore.’”
Ever since I was a child, my family would minimize my ambitions and mock me;
they made me feel unworthy and unlovable. My dad used to pretend he was dead when
I came home from school. He wanted to see my reaction; he wanted to see if I would
PHOTOGRAPHY,
be sad and heartbroken. I got so used to him playing this game that I didn’t have any
reaction at all. I would step over him, go to my room and do my homework. When my
father actually died, I was expecting the sadness to consume me. But mostly I felt free. h
ELLECANADA.COM 69
LIFE
IN MY MIND, WHATEVER CAME

NEXT COULD NOT POSSIBLY BE WORSE
THAN ACTUALLY HAVING A FAMILY.
WHEN I WAS A CHILD, MY DAD BEAT ME often. Once, I took a child’s bus ticket
out of a drawer before leaving the house, something I was normally allowed to do. I was
beaten for an hour as punishment. Another time, I got a watch as a birthday present. I
adored it; it played “Yankee Doodle” on the hour. He hit it with a hammer and hung it
from a nail on the wall so I would see it every day and be reminded of my wrongdoing.
I can’t remember what my alleged crime was anymore, but I remember his cruelty.
Everyone around me must have known about the physical abuse. I showed up at
school with bruises and cuts. I couldn’t hide them, especially in my gym uniform:
short red shorts and a white T-shirt that had shrunk in the wash. I suppose I can
understand why no one at my public high school did anything—it had one of the lowest
rankings in Montreal, and the students weren’t expected
to accomplish anything. But my family didn’t do anything
about it either. My mother left me when I was very young,
but she was well aware of the abuse that was going on—as
were all my relatives.
That’s likely why, as a child, I loved books in which
something catastrophic happens to the main character’s
parents at the beginning—like, maybe they’re run over by
a hippopotamus—and then she is left to her own devices.
In my mind, whatever came next could not possibly be
worse than actually having a family.
I thought I would just have to wait childhood out to be
free of abuse. But that wasn’t the case. I didn’t understand
that living through childhood cruelty doesn’t necessarily
prepare you to grow up and get far away from your abuser; it
often just prepares you for a lifetime of manipulation. You’ve
grown up, after all, focusing your life around the feelings
and needs of your abuser, who is constantly expressing
how downtrodden and oppressed they are—often by you
but also by the world at large. You are so worried about
their emotions and reactions that, out of neurotic guilt and
self-preservation, you always tend to their needs instead
of your own.
When my father was still alive, I was, even as an adult,
the most devoted child I knew. My friends would often
neglect to call their loving parents, or they would be lazy
about visiting. But I brought my father his food; I paid
all his bills; I cleaned his apartment. He would tell me
to do mundane, senseless tasks. He had me come over
and open a jar of pickled eggs once even though I had a
work deadline. He stopped making friends, but he didn’t
require any since I offered him all the emotional support
and company he needed. And his need for company
was enormous.
All the while, as I mopped the floors and read him the
newspaper, my father would heap criticism on me. I must
have thought that allowing him to abuse me was some sort
of filial love that made me a better person.
I had three sisters who eagerly allowed this to happen.
They had escaped my father’s abuse when they left home
and were happy to let me take care of him. My family had
Cinderella’d me. h
ELLECANADA.COM 71
LIFE
IN THE LAST YEARS OF HIS LIFE, my father was disabled and bedridden.
He refused to leave his apartment, so I travelled across town every day to
CHANGE MAKER
shop for him, clean him and, hardest of all, keep him company. At this Three steps that may improve
point, I begged my siblings for help, but they refused in the coldest, most an unhealthy relationship.
dismissive ways possible.
They knew I was paralyzed by guilt, so they left me to look after my father
Prioritize yourself.
by myself. Their freedom depended on it. I began to see them all as complicit
“Remember: You are never responsible
in the abuse I had suffered. They never did anything to stop it. In fact, they
for someone else’s happiness, especially
all benefited from it: Our father became my problem alone.
if it comes at the detriment of your
After I picked up my father’s ashes, I sat on a bench on Saint-Laurent
own,” says registered psychotherapist
Boulevard eating a sandwich, the urn in a velvet bag next to me. I was 40
and Couple Therapy Toronto associate
years old, and for once my father was not criticizing me. I considered my
Rena Dosanjh. “Re-evaluate what you
life, and a feeling of lightness enveloped my whole body. I thought maybe I
need to maintain this relationship by
was in shock; I had heard that grief comes unexpectedly. Most emotionally
asking questions like ‘What do I need
portentous events are heralded by a brief period of numbness, like when you
to be different?’ or ‘What do I fear if this
go through a breakup and think “Well, this isn’t so bad at all”—until the
relationship stays the same?’”
emotions hit you like a truck. But I just felt lightness. Not being someone’s
daughter felt euphoric.
So, I thought, what if I were to free myself of all other familial attachments
as well?
Set boundaries.
Very rarely does life open a door like that, so I stepped through and
“Once you have a better understanding
locked it behind me. It was impulsive, but after a funeral, I reasoned, you
of how a relationship is toxic, you can step
are allowed to make big life decisions. And I would have taken any excuse
toward creating boundaries that better
to get out of my family.
reflect your hopes, expectations and
I blocked my sisters’ telephone numbers and broke off all contact with my
values,” says Dosanjh. “Have a conversation
other relatives. It was frightening, but at the same time, it was thrilling. For
about the type of relationship you want
the very first time in my life, I felt like I was putting myself first.
with [the person], and don’t let it become
I used to think that family was something that followed you around like
a negotiation. Once you know what you
a criminal record. Cutting yourself off seemed like something that was only
want, hold yourself accountable and
possible in the old days, before the age of communication, when you could ride
maintain your boundaries.”
off on a horse to another town and change your name so no one could find you.
I’m not entirely sure my family cares that I left, to be honest. They’ve
certainly never expressed any sadness about it to me, but that lack of affection
is just proof of why I had to abandon them.
Accept that it’s okay to step away.
Despite all the pain I’ve endured, I know that family, with all its delightfully
“Ask yourself how much you can
heartbreaking imperfections, can be worth fighting for. That’s why I was
change or how much you are willing to
struck hard by Sparling’s belief that by cutting out toxic family members you
accommodate or compromise on,” says
can build a family on your own terms; this particular wisdom is why I don’t
Dosanjh, noting that setting your own
consider myself to be a person without a clan. I have a daughter, and with
boundaries isn’t always a magic solution.
her I have redefined what family means.
“There’s this pressure with family that you
Soon after my father died, my daughter and I planted an apple tree in the
‘owe them’ to keep contributing to the
backyard. It’s small and has spindly branches, but it has started to grow blossoms
relationship. That’s not the case. It’s okay to
in the spring and apples in the summer. It looks pretty and carefree. It has put
leave if you feel that you need to.”
down roots and is at the beginning of its story. Every family starts somewhere.
WARNING SIGNS
Unsure if one of your relationships is toxic? Here’s what to look for.
“WARNING SIGNS” & “CHANGE MAKER,” PATRICIA KAROUNOS
“Toxic relationships are largely determined by a person’s sense of safety and happiness—or if their emotional, physical and mental well-being
is ever at risk,” says Rena Dosanjh, a registered psychotherapist and associate at Couple Therapy Toronto. It is, admittedly, a broad definition—it
can apply to familial, romantic and even workplace relationships—and one that means different things to different people. But if you leave
your annual family gathering feeling vulnerable, there are two types of signs to consider. “First, there are external signs, which you can look for
in interactions with the family member in question,” says Dosanjh, who is also the co-founder of Relationship Therapy Mississauga. Anything
that triggers a negative power dynamic, such as your needs or feelings being disregarded or contemptuous remarks that make you feel
minimized, is a red flag. And watch out for criticism that’s heavy in “you” phrases designed to assign blame (like “you should have” or “you
didn’t”). But it’s also useful to use your feelings as a compass: Do your interactions with a certain person make you feel shame or guilt? Are you
questioning yourself for feeling that way and wondering if you’re a bad daughter or cousin? It might not be you, says Dosanjh. “If you’re feeling
emotional or psychological depletion, that’s a sign from within that you’re in a toxic situation.”
72 ELLECANADA.COM
RELATIONSHIP
CALL ME, maybe

Why have pre-date phone calls become so scary?
By BRIONY SMITH
I
n the early days of online dating, it seemed natural to hop on a phone call before
meeting up with a stranger to ensure the vibes felt right. Fast-forward 15 years and the
vast majority of us have forgotten that our mobiles even have a phone function. The
idea of chatting prior to a first date has become charmingly old-fashioned at best and, for
the many millennials and generation Z folks who are petrified of talking on the phone,
downright terrifying at worst. So, why is the pre-date phone call suddenly on the rise?
“There’s been a jump for people in their 20s and 30s,” says Claire AH, a matchmaker
with Friend of a Friend Matchmaking. “People are looking for a little more human
connection. The phone isn’t necessarily the best way to get to know someone, but it
fosters more familiarity than moving straight from the app to face to face. Dating is
about putting yourself out there, so a little bit of added security can go a long way.” h
ELLECANADA.COM 73
RELATIONSHIP
It can also be a quick way to help weed out

bots and prevent catfishing, which, according “PEOPLE HAVE TO reveal A BIT
to Camille Virginia, author of The Offline
Dating Method, is on the rise these days. “With MORE ABOUT THEMSELVES.
people lying about age and looks and social
skills becoming increasingly common in hearing a voice
AND BRINGS
online encounters, people want to make sure
they aren’t wasting their valuable time on a
dishonest person,” she explains.
visceral
ABOUT A MORE
There are also folks who require a pre-
date phone call, like writer Kerry, 35, who is
connection TO A PERSON
blind. “I understand that urge to only want
to communicate by text, but since I can’t see behind a screen.”
THAN TEXTING
photos, an on-the-phone talk before meeting
up is essential to me,” she says. “It’s nice to
hear the person’s voice, even if I am always
nervous when initiating that first call.”
However, for many people, like super-busy TV producer Kirby*, 34, pre-date phone
calls are simply a tool for saving time. “Dates with complete strangers take energy!” she says,
laughing. “I was showing up for dates and realizing within five minutes that the guy wasn’t
a good match for me, but I’d gone to the effort of doing my hair and makeup. And then
I’d have to sit there for another hour out of politeness.... A lot is lost in written messages, so
I started asking for calls first to see if we clicked in conversation as easily as we did online.”
Unlike texting, talking on the phone takes actual in-the-moment effort, which can
be a great litmus test for potential paramours, says Starr*, a 48-year-old actor. “I use
the call to gauge actual interest and drive. So many men—women too, I’m sure—use
the apps to ego-stroke, kill time and fill a need to constantly be on a device. I’ve met
men who just want to text and chat at me—not to me.”
THE BEST ROMCOM PHONE CALLS
BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S (1961) WHEN HARRY MET SALLY… (1989) SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE (1993)
Sure, Paul (George Peppard) never actually The easy intimacy between the not- Sam (Tom Hanks) and Annie (Meg Ryan)
gets to make the call he intended to when so-platonic BFFs Harry (Billy Crystal) would never have fallen in love if Sam hadn’t
PHOTOGRAPHY, IMDB
he stops by Holly Golightly’s apartment, and Sally (Meg Ryan) as they watch hopped on the phone to tell a popular radio
but he’s so charmed by her quirks Casablanca together over the phone show how much he missed his late
(she keeps her phone in a suitcase!) before bed makes us wonder: wife, arguably making this the most
that we can’t blame him. Why did we stop doing this? pro-phone-call movie of all time.
74 ELLECANADA.COM
Who among us hasn’t endured the endless, agonizing stream of “hey how r u” texts SO YOU DON’T
over a series of days? Or weeks? Messaging has also, however, become the perfect WANT TO TALK?
medium for crafting an entertaining facade—even if you’re not very fun in real life.
A phone call can tip their hand, creating greater and more authentic intimacy, and
Here’s how to calm those
fast, says project manager Resi*, 27. “It’s harder to pivot when someone’s on the line phone-call nerves.
asking a question or making a comment,” she says. “People have to reveal a bit more
about themselves. And hearing a voice brings about a more visceral connection to It’s worth figuring out why you hate the
a person than texting behind a screen.” phone so much. Start by asking yourself
Despite the advantages, some still rankle at the request. Thirty-four-year-old some questions, says author Camille Virginia.
event planner Tilly* agrees that a pre-date phone call can save time, but such an
ask can also reveal a jaded attitude. “It feels completely judgmental,” she says with a IS IT ANY CONTACT WITH A POTENTIAL
sigh. “People want to quickly move on to the next person and efficiently spend their MATE THAT ISN’T DONE FROM BEHIND
energy elsewhere. It feels so formal, like an over-the-phone job interview with the A SCREEN THAT GIVES ME ANXIETY?
HR intake coordinator.” One man, in fact, actually asked her a skill-testing question: “If so, then it’s not the phone you hate—it’s
“If you arrived at a party and there was a dog there, who would you greet first: the something deeper, like a fear of rejection
dog or the humans?” Tilly answered, “The dog.” “Good,” he replied. “Because if or even social anxiety,” says Virginia. “In that
you’d said ‘Humans,’ I wouldn’t go on a date with you.” case, talking on the phone may actually
Film costumer Cristina, 29, never asks a prospective date to chat before meeting. be the perfect next step for you because
“Talking on the phone causes me great anxiety,” she explains. And if someone asks you can start to practise your connection
her to chat, she tells them upfront that she’s not comfortable doing it and would skills minus the handicap of a screen
rather meet in person. but without yet being face to face with
So, how do you strike a compromise if someone is asking for a phone conver- someone. It allows you to not only screen
sation you don’t want to have? Say you prefer to chat face to face but are happy to this person but also get comfortable with
*NAME HAS BEEN CHANGED.
sit down for a quick coffee, which doesn’t involve a major time commitment. This them by connecting more personally so
small move can be huge empowerment-wise—and it will definitely help you get the next step of meeting face to face will
comfortable with establishing boundaries right from the get-go. If someone really feel more relaxed and fun.”
wants to meet you, they should be okay with meeting halfway. Because the ability
to compromise? Now that’s sexy. WHAT IF I HAVE ALWAYS HATED THE
PHONE BUT AM COMFORTABLE
WITH (OR EVEN PREFER!) IN-PERSON
INTERACTIONS? “Then I suggest setting
up a video call, like FaceTime or even a
Zoom video conference call, between you
and your match to mimic the in-person
experience without committing to a full
evening or afternoon with each other in the
real world just yet,” says Virginia. “That way
you can see what they look like, read into
their body language and get some of your
preferred in-person connection benefits.”
In either case, Virginia recommends

warming up your social skills (and vocal
cords) before any jitter-inducing phone
conversations. “That could be as simple
as calling or meeting up with a friend right
before your call with your online match,”
she says. “Then, while you’re on the call
with your potential date, try standing up
LOVE ACTUALLY (2003) THE HOLIDAY (2006) and even walking around. This gives your
Laura Linney’s character’s long-awaited Iris (Kate Winslet) desperately juggling calls nerves a natural outlet so they don’t build up
night with her dream crush getting between the woman she exchanged homes inside you or, even worse, come out through
interrupted by a phone call from her brother with (Cameron Diaz) and her brother (Jude your voice.” She also recommends smiling,
is the second-most-tragic moment of this Law), who, unbeknownst to her, just hooked especially when you first start chatting:
romcom anthology—after Emma Thompson up, is peak comedy in this Nancy Meyers People can hear it in your voice, and it
weeping along to Joni Mitchell, of course. classic. PATRICIA KAROUNOS will put both of you more at ease. BS
ELLECANADA.COM 75
LOREM IPSUM
THE MUCH ANTICIPATED COOKBOOK

FROM ONE OF MONTREAL'S MOST
ICONIC RESTAURANTS
IN
BO K
O S
T R
O E
NOW!
FEBRUARY
Dare to play with
flirty forms and
a Wild West attitude.
PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT
WON DER
The long-reigning queen of Hollywood
Writer
STÉPHANIE CHAYET
on friends, family and why she never looks
at her phone in the middle of the night.
WOM A N
Dress (Brunello Cucinelli),
earrings (Chrome Hearts) and
shoes (Stella McCartney)
Photographer Stylist
TOM MUNRO ISABEL DUPRÉ
INTRO TEXT ADAPTED BY KATE SOMERVILLE
between her kids’ sports matches, birthday parties

and breakfasts out with girlfriends. It’s an idyllic
world but one that feels precarious as devastating
wildfires invade California and threaten to disrupt
the balance she’s created.
What is the recipe for happiness?

“You’re starting with the $10-million question!
Surround yourself with guides and mentors, and
always be on the lookout for joy.”
Who are your guides and mentors?
“My husband, above all, because he’s intelligent and
gives good advice. And I have a group of friends
whom I can count on for their honesty. When I ask
for an opinion, I don’t want to be told what I want
to hear; I want to know what they really think. I’m
very lucky to have people in my life and at my side
who are very frank with me.”
IS Are they childhood friends?

“I’ve known my best friend, who lives in Chicago,
since high school, but the group I’m referring to are
women I met after moving to Malibu about 10 years
ago. These are the friends I see all the time—some
it possible to take a bad photo of Julia Roberts?
every day and others at least once a week because
That’s what I’m wondering as the megastar glides
we play mah-jong. When my husband happens
effortlessly onto the set and begins posing for the
to be at home on a Tuesday, our mah-jong day,
rapid-fire shots of fashion photographer Tom
he always says to me: ‘You’re so lucky! I hear you
Munro. She is somehow luminous in every one,
all laughing and then things calm down and get
whether her hair is swept right or left, her gaze
serious.’ He’s right—it’s a great opportunity to be
dreamy or serious. The shoot is so successful that
able to joke or discuss our problems every Tuesday
the photographer seems even happier than she
while playing this wonderful game.”
is—and her smile is insured for $30 million.
How do you take care of your body and mind?
Reluctant to be away from her family, the eter-
“I try to move every day. I used to be a big jogger,
nal Pretty Woman opted to bring her modelling
but since an ankle injury, I’ve had to do other things.
career home with her whenever possible when
It reminds me that I’ve put in 50 years of use on
Lancôme asked her to become one of its faces in
my poor little joints! For my mental health, I try
2009. That’s why we’re currently at her house in
different things depending on where I am in my
Malibu, a wooded coastal suburb of Los Angeles,
life, but there’s one constant: I always try my best
where the actress, her husband and their three
to feel connected to the people I love.”
children took up residence about 10 years ago.
What should you do but don’t?
Luckily, the sprawling villa, with its perpetually
“I read that you should acquire a new skill every 19
golden light, is the perfect setting for a shoot, and
years to live a long, healthy life. I recently turned 52,
Roberts’ children—total Californians with blond
and I always say to myself that I should probably
hair and skater style—can hang out at a neighbour’s
find some sort of course to fill my 50s quota.” h
house after school or come home and watch their
mom at work alongside Serge Normant, Roberts’
hairdresser and friend of 30 years, who is never far
away with a blow-dryer in hand.
Thanks to her collaboration with Lancôme, the
actress, whose moments in the public eye are rare
but stellar, says she can devote herself to her loved
ones—the secret to a successful work-life balance, as
she sees it. Married to Danny Moder for 18 years,
which is an eternity in Hollywood, Roberts seems
to lead the life of a well-heeled soccer mom, running
“ I ’ V E A LWAY S F E LT
TH AT M Y ROLES
FIN D ME AT THE
R IG H T MOM E N T.”
Sweater (Loro Piana) and rings (Emma Israelsson)
Makeup by Genevieve Herr using Lancôme

(Advanced Génifique Serum, Teint Idole Ultra
Long Wear Foundation in Beige Diaphane, Belle
de Teint Powder in Belle de Jour, Blush Subtil in
Figue Espiègle, Hypnôse Mascara in Deep Black,
Hypnôse palette in Natural Taupe, Hypnôse Khôl
eye pencil in Brown and L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in
Rose Nu)
Has your definition of success changed

over time?
“Oh, yes. Success at 20 years old meant paying my
bills, which made me feel like an accomplished adult.
Once you can accomplish that without too much
difficulty, then you can move on to new, greater
challenges and a broader meaning of success.
Personally, my most recent role, in Homecoming, was
one of the greatest accomplishments of my life.”
Why was it such an accomplishment?
“There was so much dialogue to memorize! My
kids would come home from school, and I would
come home from shooting, and we would each do
our homework…except mine was never-ending and
went on for months! It was very challenging. But
working so hard, being on-set at 7 a.m., repeating
an 11-page scene until it was perfect—I’ve never
felt that good. And I’ve never felt such a synergy
What would you like to learn?
on-set either. Sometimes, if you’re lucky, you get
“Honestly, when I lie awake at night thinking about
that with the heart of your production team, but
it, the number of things that pop into my head is
here it was the entire team, everyone involved.”
almost comical. Guitar, basketry, cooking… .”
Having a role that feels progressive at 50 is
You don’t look at your phone when you wake
a good sign in a world where these types of
up in the middle of the night?
opportunities are diminishing.
“Never in my life! I read or I do something calming.
“I’ve always felt that my roles find me at the
I don’t want to know what’s going on in the world
right moment.”
at three in the morning.”
You radiate professional success, but what is
Are current events a source of anxiety for you?
personal success for you?
“In California right now, life revolves around the
“A day that ends with homework done, a clean
weather and the fires. This is nerve-racking because
kitchen and no injuries.”
it’s out of anyone’s control. Recently, the winds
You’ve been a face of Lancôme for a decade.
were so strong that my kids’ school was closed for
Do you recognize yourself in the Lancôme
four days. Last year, at the same time of year, my
woman you represent?
friends lost their home. We had to evacuate ours,
“God knows I don’t look like her on a daily
but, thankfully, it didn’t burn down.”
basis—I’d need 10 to 15 people to help me get
Do you feel like this affects your kids?
there. [Laughs] But there’s something honest about
“There was a night or two when the boys came
her. Sure, I benefit from great lighting and a pretty
and woke us up a couple of times because they kept
dress, but that woman isn’t someone else—it’s just a
smelling something burning. My husband had to
more-glammed-up version of me. When Lancôme
reassure them.”
approached me, I told them, ‘I don’t want you to
What do you do to de-stress?
hire me so that you can erase everything that makes
“My general attitude toward stress is not to let it
me me,’ and I appreciate that they respected that.
build up. I try to deal with it bit by bit to avoid
Having a voice in the matter is surely a factor that
exploding like a pressure cooker. For example, I
contributes to the great relationship and collabor-
immediately speak to the person with whom I’m
ation we’ve cultivated over the years.”
having a conflict, and I always look for practical
solutions to difficult situations. I also hate being late,
and traffic can really stress me out—I’ve definitely
chosen the wrong city to live in—so I often leave
early if I have to get anywhere. At the beginning
of November, when the wind heightened the fire
risk, I said to myself, ‘I’m going to do everything
possible to reduce my stress levels.’ I make sure the
car always has a full tank of gas, I’ve asked the kids
to pack a suitcase, I have mine ready, I have all the
passports close at hand, a photo of my mother, a
family album, and it’s all packed up. The car has
been loaded with everything for four days so it’s
ready to go.”
Sweater (Hermès), skirt

(Brunello Cucinelli) and
earrings and rings (Cartier)
Makeup, Genevieve Herr

(Lancôme) ; hair, Serge
Normant; styling assistant,
Nadia Beeman; manicure,
Christina Graci
POLAR
Stylist
NILO AKBARI
’90s minimalism gets sensual with lingerie-inspired

details and tailored statement pieces.
VISIONhttps://t.me/WorldAndNews
Photographer
ROYAL GILBERT
Silk top and leather cap and
gloves (Louis Vuitton)
Creative director, Annie Horth
Wool jumpsuit and leather shoes
(Bottega Veneta), cotton
shirt (Unravel Project) and
rhodium-plated-sterling-silver
ear cuff (Alan Crocetti)
Polyester coat (Beaufille), polyamide

swimsuit (Agent Provocateur),
rhodium-plated-sterling-silver ear
cuff (Alan Crocetti) and polyamide
and elastane tights (Calzedonia)
Silk and wool suit (Kathryn Bowen),
neoprene tank top (Emily Kowalik),
leather sandals (Versace),
rhodium-plated-sterling-silver ear
cuff (Alan Crocetti) and polyamide
and elastane tights (Calzedonia)
CottonSilkandand
polyester jacket
wool suit (Kathryn
(alexanderwang), nylon unitard
Bowen), neoprene tank top
(Rui Zhou),
(Emilyrhodium-plated-
Kowalik), leather san-
sterling-silver ring (Alan
dals (Versace), Crocetti)
sterling-silver
andrhodium
leather sandals (Reike
plated ear Nen)
cuff (Alan
Crocetti) and polyamide and
elastane tights (Calzedonia)
Leather jacket and wool trousers

(Kathryn Bowen)
Embroidered-silk dress
(Saint Laurent by Anthony
Vaccarello) and polyamide and
elastane tights (Calzedonia)
Bonded-cotton and silk dress
(Dion Lee), jersey gloves
(Emily Kowalik), Supplex and
Lycra leggings (Live the Process),
leather sandals (Versace) and
earring and ear cuff (Alan Crocetti)
Cotton
Silk andand wool polyester top
suit (Kathryn
(A.W.A.K.E. Mode), cotton
Bowen), neoprene bra
tank top
(stylist’
(EmilysKowalik),
own), leather andsan-
leather
denim skirt (alexanderwang),
dals (Versace), sterling-silver
polyamide
rhodium plated and elastane tights
ear cuff (Alan
(Calzedonia)
Crocetti) and and leatherand
polyamide
sandals
elastane(Versace)
tights (Calzedonia)
Jersey dress
(Christopher Kane)
and jersey gloves
(Emily Kowalik)
Silk-blend-crepe and tulle bra

(Nensi Dojaka), polyamide and
elastane tights (Calzedonia) and
ear cuffs (Alan Crocetti)
For details, see Shopping Guide.

Model, Marisha Urushadze (Next
Models); makeup, Nicolas Blanchet
(Folio); hair, Kirsten Klontz (P1M.ca/
Hot Tools); production coordinator,
Estelle Gervais; photographer’s
assistants, Mitchell Write and Emily
V. Gilbert; styling assistants, Fanny
Lamontagne and Izzy Davison
Jacket, shirt, skirt and belt

(Louis Vuitton), hat (Jessie Western)
and bolo tie (stylist’s own)
Photographer
VICTOR DEMARCHELIER
Stylist
JENNY KENNEDY
Rodeo Drive
Country-chic glamour
calls for statement
accessories, fringe, frills
and plenty of sparkle.
Sweater and pants

(Bottega Veneta), boots
(Jessie Western) and hat (Clyde)
Shirt (Contemporary Wardrobe)

and boots (Sergio Rossi)
Jacket and pants (Coach), shirt
and boots (Jessie Western) and
belt (Space Cowboy)
Hat (Versace), earrings

(DANNIJO) and hoop earrings
(model’s own)
Shirt and pants (Chanel), belt
(Space Cowboy), earrings (DANNIJO)
and hat (Jessie Western)
Shirt (Gucci), hat (Clyde) and

boots (Jessie Western)
Jacket and shorts (Miu Miu)

and boots (Toga)
Vest, dress and belt (Paco Rabanne)
For details, see Shopping Guide.

Fashion editor, Charlotte Deffe; model,
Damaris Goodrie (VIVA Model
Management); makeup, Al Yokomizo;
hair, Luke Chamberlain (Statement
Artists); styling assistant, Lulu Cooper
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF AIRBNB
lifestyle
From left: The Blue Room
in City Palace; City Palace.
Opposite: The private pool in
the Gudliya suite in City Palace
COLOUR THEORY
Recently deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site,
Jaipur, India, is a must-see for any discerning traveller.
By VICTORIA DIPLACIDO
L
ONG BEFORE PINK BECAME synonymous with millennials, it was associated with regality and hospitality. When Prince
Albert (Queen Elizabeth’s great-great-grandfather) visited Jaipur, the capital of India’s northern state of Rajasthan, in the
late 19th century, the city was painted in the colour, earning it the moniker “the Pink City,” which has stuck to the present
day. It is undoubtedly Instagrammable, and the walled city was given UNESCO World Heritage status last year, thanks
in part to its distinctive architecture. His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh, the affable 21-year-old monarch
of Jaipur, calls the city a “full experience.” “People who come to Jaipur for the first time tell me they will never see the world with
the same eyes again,” he says. “The architecture, the people, the food, the culture, the traditions—it’s an experience that takes you
into a dream world that you could never imagine until you see it for yourself.” Here’s what to do when you visit. h
ELLECANADA.COM 109
From top: The bedroom

in the Gudliya suite in City
Palace; the entryway into
the suite
STAY redecorated space was
The sprawling 300-year- once used as the maha-
old City Palace complex raja’s private hammam
is home to Jaipur’s royal and now features its
family and the first royal own indoor swimming
residence ever to be pool, a lounge, an
listed on Airbnb. While outdoor courtyard and
it is not uncommon a private butler. It’s
for royal palaces to admittedly opulent; on
become hotels in India a recent visit, no less
(see the Raj Palace, than three peacocks
Sujan Rajmahal Palace were spotted roaming
and Taj Rambagh the palace grounds.
Palace, all in Jaipur), All revenue from the
this is still a working bookings will go to
palace; consider it the Princess Diya Kumari’s
equivalent of Queen namesake founda-
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF AIRBNB (GUDLIYA SUITE) &
Elizabeth listing a room tion, a non-profit that

in Buckingham Palace. supports and empowers
The $10,500-a-night underprivileged women
Gudliya suite is located in Rajasthan. (The state
VICTORIA DIPLACIDO (HAWA MAHAL)
in a private section of has one of the lowest

the complex previously female-literacy rates
only accessible to in India.) Even if you
guests of the royal don’t stay in the suite, a
family. (Think Jackie guided tour of the public
Kennedy and Prince portion of the City Palace
Charles.) The newly complex (including the
110 ELLECANADA.COM
TRAVEL
elephant trunk, a fish greeted by shop owners.

tail) meant to test the IQ Situated in the middle
of royal guests. You can of the busy shopping
reach the fort by foot or district is Hawa Mahal;
hire a jeep to take you up built in the 18th century,
the VIP route. (Although the five-storey win-
that, too, can be slow— dow-covered building
give yourself at least a is architecturally
half a day.) striking despite the fact
that it was designed
so that women could
SHOP view street festivities
Clockwise, from top left: Walk along the streets without, you know,
A courtyard in Amer Fort; outside City Palace for actually having to go out
Hawa Mahal; a ring from
Gem Palace; Bar Palladio; clothing and shoe shop- and attend them. Gem
outside Amer Fort ping, and be prepared Palace is a must-visit for
to be enthusiastically jewellery lovers. h
breathtaking and aptly Amer. It took an aston-

named Blue Room) is a ishing 137 years to build
must. Be sure to bring the complex, which was
comfortable shoes—the once home to the royal
winding hallway you’ll family and offers views
climb to reach the of the impressive wall
various palace rooms that winds around the
is steep. city. It’s worth it to hire
a guide who can explain
the incredible intricacies
DO of the fort’s design, such
Climb Aravali Hill to as an image of a plant
reach the majestic Amer carved into a slab of
Fort (also called Amber marble that contains
Fort), which overlooks upwards of 15 hidden
the former capital city of images (rabbit ears, an
TRAVEL
The family-owned food that’s a fusion of

business is a favourite Southern Italian and
of both royals and Middle Eastern fare. The
celebs. (Photographs electric-blue interior
of Princess Diana and of Bar Palladio is
Gwyneth Paltrow, reminiscent of Jaipur’s
among others, line the iconic blue pottery, but
walls.) Budget-con- opt to sit outside under
scious travellers can the fairy lights in the
buy loose gems at a cozy tented courtyard.
variety of price points If you’re in search of a
and have them set into traditional Rajasthani
rings or earrings. Be dinner, go to the sleek
sure to go upstairs to Baradari, located in a
the vibrant-pink private former café space in
atelier to take in the City Palace. For a true
one-of-a-kind jewellery taste of history, stop
offerings, such as the for lunch at 1135 AD
family’s own heirlooms inside Amer Fort, where
(think six-figure authentic recipes that
diamond chokers), and have been passed down
tour the workrooms through generations of
where fifth-generation royal cooks are used. If
stonecutters create the you want to eat like a
brand’s custom offerings. king—literally—go to
Pandit Kulfi, a traditional
Indian ice-cream shop
EAT that serves over 200
Opened by an Italian flavours—it’s one of the
expat, Bar Palladio and maharaja’s favourites.
Caffé Palladio
Caffé Palladio serve
WHAT to PACK
Smartphone printer, Fujifilm Silk caftan, Louisa Parris ($1,390,
($130, at Best Buy, at themodist.com)
bestbuy.ca)
18-karat-gold-plated-
brass and cubic zirconia
necklace, Shashi ($66, at
shopbop.com)
Teaology Matcha
Fresh Cream ($49,
teaologyskincare.ca)
Polyester top, Alice and Wool travel pillow, Volprivé
Olivia ($269, ($99, volprive.ca)
aliceandolivia.com) Jacquard clutch,
Nordstrom ($123,
nordstrom.com)
112 ELLECANADA.COM
TRAVEL
Check-in
THE LATEST IN TRAVEL NEWS.
THIS MONTH, LET’S GET PACKING.
Carry on
There’s a Japanese term, mono no aware,
used to describe the profound pathos of things
or awareness of their transience. It was with
this in mind that Canadian friends Victor Tam,
Hubert Chan and Daniel Shin created their
direct-to-consumer luggage brand, Monos,
hoping to encourage more mindfulness
during travel. Designed in Vancouver, the
ANTEPRIMA
understated hard-case pieces are made with
aerospace-grade Makrolon polycarbonate
(The tl;dr version: The shell has Superman-level
strength), and the Japanese-manufactured
wheels are silent while you’re on the move. In
keeping with the brand’s minimalist aesthetic,
each suitcase is available in one of eight solid
hues, but it’s the limited-edition terrazzo option
Bastide Elixir II Nourishing Oil Nuori Protect+
JB Skin Guru Le Masque
that’s just begging us to whisk one away some- for Face & Décolleté ($130, at ($75, jbskinguru.com)
Cleansing Milk ($58,
Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com) at Etiket, etiket.ca)
where sunny. (From $375, monos.com)
Climate control
Skincare tips for trans-seasonal travel.
TEXT, PATRICIA KAROUNOS & MELISSA PERDIGAO; STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAXTREE (MODEL)
START ON THE PLANE Skip the makeup, sodium-laden snacks and

mid-flight glass of wine. “The dry air will suck the moisture from
your skin,” says Jennifer Brodeur, Montreal-based founder of JB
Skin Guru and facialist to Michelle Obama. “Let your skin breathe.”
CLEANSE DEEPLY Activity-packed days and boozy nights demand
a thorough cleanse. “A creamy cleanser, face oil and sheet mask
work wonders,” says Brodeur. “Don’t overcleanse or strip the skin;
[just] ensure you are maintaining hydration levels.”
AVOID HARSH EXFOLIANTS “You can’t expect to go from extreme
cold to warmth and have your skin show no signs [of changes],”
warns Brodeur. “Keep it light; it’s time to be minimalistic.”
ON THE GO
Sometimes you
need to hop off a
plane not looking
like you just Leather belt bag, Want Cashmere travel set, Silk scarf, Treasure & Recycled-polyester Insulated bomber
Les Essentiels ($350, Allude ($1,503, at Bond ($68, at Nordstrom, weekender bag, Everlane jacket, Arc’teryx
hopped off a plane. wantapothecary.com) matchesfashion.com) nordstrom.com) ($116, everlane.com) ($270, arcteryx.com)
ELLECANADA.COM 113
TRAVEL
Honeymoon
Phase
Whether you prefer a cozy oceanfront villa or
you’re more the private-island type, these
ELLE editor favourites are bound to inspire you.
By PATRICIA NAGY Adapted by PATRICIA KAROUNOS & CIARA RICKARD
Silversands Grenada
114 ELLECANADA.COM
Bodrum, Turkey
AMANRUYA
Imagine a resort that feels like a village, with paths leading from your private
pavilion—where the pool is all yours, by the way—through a forest to the hotel’s
main house and then down the hill to the private beach club. If the locally inspired
(and mouth-wateringly-delicious) meals, hammam-like bathrooms and stunning
Ottoman-meets-Mediterranean style of the resort don’t have you convinced, just
let the dedicated yoga studio, traditional spa and three-storey library with a view
lure you into a world away. It’s history wrapped up in luxury.
PHOTOGRAPHY, KATE MARTIN & STEPHEN RINGER (HOTEL IL PELLICANO)
Porto Ercole, Italy

HOTEL IL PELLICANO
This storied resort—tucked chicly into a private cove overlooking the
Mediterranean Sea—is ’60s-era glamour with a contemporary twist, and
the details are nothing short of perfect. Old-money Italians mingle with young
hipsters—even photographers Juergen Teller and the late Slim Aarons were
won over by its charm. Take a stroll down to the sunning dock at the sea’s edge,
or savour a Michelin-starred meal in one of the property’s two restaurants.
The rooms are stylish yet don’t take away from the classic feel of the hotel,
which has amenities we love, like must-have beach bags and a gorgeous
boutique. ELLE Australia editor-in-chief Genevra Leek describes it as
“a modern spirit paired with old-school Italian polish.” To that we say, “Saluti!” h
ELLECANADA.COM 115
TRAVEL
Baja California, Mexico

HOTEL SAN CRISTOBAL
The consummate mix of hippie chic, surfer cool and rustic Mexican decor right
on the beach exists—we promise. It’s easy and casual here, yet every detail is just
as it should be, from the giant cacti and organic farm-fresh cuisine (Those tacos!
That guacamole!) to the traditional tiles and chairs. Hugging the rocky coastal
Sierra de la Laguna mountains, the beach is surfer-approved and just a few
kilometres from the charmingly artsy town of Todos Santos. “The area is remote
and undeveloped—perfect for couples to go exploring,” says ELLE Turkey’s Neslihan
Denizer. Named after St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers, this hotel is
an über-cool Baja hideaway. PHOTOGRAPHY, NICK SIMONITE (HOTEL SAN CRISTOBAL)
116 ELLECANADA.COM
Baa Atoll, the Maldives

FOUR SEASONS
VOAVAH
If you knew you were going to be
stranded on a desert island, what would
you bring? Well, if that island happened
to be a picture-perfect, you-can-stop-
dreaming-now kind of resort, you
wouldn’t need to bring much at all.
A Four Seasons property, this jungle-
meets-beach private island is small
yet very well equipped. With only four
accommodations (villas or suites) and a
private yacht available for guests, it’s part
of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and
is basically the definition of “paradise,”
according to the team at ELLE Spain.
Swim with dolphins, spot manta rays or
swing on a perfectly Instagrammable
hammock overlooking an iridescent-
blue lagoon. The discreet staff are at
Bavaria, Germany your beck and call for whatever your
heart desires, from massages at the spa
AMERON NEUSCHWANSTEIN and incredible Lebanese-inspired meals
ALPSEE RESORT & SPA to a cocktail to sip while you relax on
On the quaint Lake Alpsee, in the southernmost part of Germany, sits this extra-
that hammock. h
ordinarily chic resort. The setting itself is the purest vision of nature one could
imagine, so it’s no surprise that 19th-century Bavarian kings chose to build their
castles overlooking its snow-capped mountains and green forests. The rooms
are cozy yet elegant, with the right balance of warm colour and natural elements,
and the spa will draw you in with its incredible treatments. So whether you’re up
for a gastronomic delight, hiking around the lake or discovering famous castles,
your time here will be as memorable as (we assume) it was for those kings.
ELLECANADA.COM 117
TRAVEL
Piedmont, Italy
VILLA LA MADONNA
Perched on a hill in northern Italy, this is a place in which your heart, soul and taste buds will delight. Serving the epitome of Italian fare in a
setting that is unrivalled, the hotel’s terrace restaurant staff will also set up your table in the middle of the vineyards if you like. The editors at
ELLE Sweden say it has a “magical, beautiful environment, fantastic food and the nicest treatment.” The resort—which closes for the winter
and reopens every year in March—has just 18 impeccably decorated rooms, each with its own private terrace. Tranquility reigns over the
vineyards and will reign over you too thanks to the yoga, body treatments, grape harvesting and even truffle hunting on offer. Life actually
shifts gears here. It’s so peaceful you’ll swear you can hear the grapes asking to be picked.
118 ELLECANADA.COM
Byron Bay, Australia

RAE’S ON WATEGOS
The decor of this eight-room Spanish-mission-style
hotel is bohemian chic meets intellectual meets
surfer, creating a sophisticated yet casual vibe. The
location is nothing short of ideal, as confirmed by
Leek: “It sits in front of the most beautiful beach in
Byron Bay.” Dolphins are regulars in the waves, and
since the hotel is not huge, the friendly staff can eas-
ily keep you posted on when they put on their best
shows. After a treatment at the spa (try the two-hour
full-body massage) and a mouth-watering meal at
the restaurant, don’t be surprised if your pillow has
been sprayed ever so gently with Rae’s signature
sleep mist and there’s a cup of herbal tea waiting
to coax you into a deep sleep. h
ELLECANADA.COM 119
TRAVEL
Mahé, the Seychelles

MAIA LUXURY RESORT & SPA
On the southwestern coast of Mahé are 30 thatched-roof villas nestled in a forest
at the edge of a white sandy beach. This is Maia Luxury Resort & Spa, where the
philosophy is “Whatever, wherever, whenever.” The fact that your villa (equipped
with Hermès products and a Bose sound system) comes with a private butler and
the accommodation is all-inclusive means that not many decisions need to be
made—aside from fun ones, such as whether to have champagne or chardonnay
while you soak in the tea light- and frangipani-decorated outoor bathtub on your Los Angeles
private terrace. And don’t leave without trying the spa’s Dancing Fingers Massage
or Banana Leaf Wrap. If you need more convincing, just ask ELLE Middle East’s
KIMPTON
editor-in-chief, Maria Aziz. “I went there for my honeymoon, and it was just a
LA PEER HOTEL
If great design gets your heart racing
dream!” she says. Case in point.
almost as much as your new spouse, this
is the place for you. The Kimpton La Peer
is minutes from über-cool boutiques
Maxfield, Acne and John Elliott as well
as the Pacific Design Center, and the
hotel’s own contemporary neutral-hued
decor—think white-oak herringbone
floors, leather walls, brass details and
original artworks—will appease your
expert eye. “Though you’re only steps
from bustling Melrose Avenue, the
property is incredibly private and
serene—perfect for a romantic night in,”
says ELLE Canada art director Jed Tallo.
Up that romance factor with help from
a bath butler. (Yes, you read that right.)
The property’s signature suites come
with a giant soaker tub that, upon
request, will be filled for you and spiked
with Ole Henriksen essential oils and
a scattering of orchid petals.
120 ELLECANADA.COM
St. George’s, Grenada

SILVERSANDS GRENADA
You may think you’ve already done the Caribbean,
but you really haven’t if your trip didn’t include a stay
at Silversands Grenada. The moment you enter the
minimalist-chic lobby (picture soft tones and natural
textures like wood and marble), you get an impressive
view of the 100-metre-long pool—which the hotel
claims is the longest in the Caribbean. The luxe suites
are high-tech in an actually-makes-your-life-easier
way. You can dim the lights, open the shades or have
remote-controlled curtains drape around you all
without leaving your king-size bed. But the real draw
is the beachfront and poolside villas. Each one comes
with a private pool and a personal valet. Of course,
you’d be remiss to skip the spa, where you could easily
spend days working through the extensive treatment
list inspired by the local environment. Relax with a
detoxifying coconut scrub or step into the ice cave to
soothe the sunburn you get after you inevitably forget
to reapply SPF.
ELLECANADA.COM 121
TRAVEL
Caldera House
DO think comfort food like
Hit the slopes hard. free-range bison and
While the terrain is Dutch-oven-baked
challenging, the runs at apple tarte tatin.
A Cowgirls Guide To Jackson Hole Mountain

Resort are rewarding,
Immerse yourself in
the wildlife of the
JACKSON HOLE
and though there is American West. The
enough extreme powder National Museum of
for any adrenalin junkie, Wildlife Art boasts a
there are also plenty treasure trove of works,
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART),
of groomed trails for a some dating back
Wyoming might just be the last corner of the
fair-weather skier like to 2500 BC, by over
West that’s still a little bit wild. By AMANDA BLAKLEY me. Consider hiring a 500 artists. Though
guide like pro Bill Dyer this museum isn’t
via Exum Mountain super well known, its
Guides for a full or collection of works by
half day to gain early prominent artists such
I
n the state of Wyoming, legendary ski town Jackson is nestled in a vast access to the runs. (An as Georgia O’Keeffe and
valley surrounded by mountains that are blanketed in snow most of the extra 30 minutes will Andy Warhol makes it
year. Those peaks fuel Jackson Hole, the holy grail of winter destinations, guarantee you those a must-visit. While on
which for five months of the year attracts the billionaire ski set, who like fresh tracks.) Take a the art trail, make sure
KELLY DUERR (CALDERA HOUSE) & INSTAGRAM (RODEO)
their runs steep and deep. Known by enthusiasts as the cooler, more magical sleigh ride. to also stop at Heather
rugged brother to its fancier Colorado siblings, the region actually includes Dash along the banks James Fine Art Gallery,
three mountain resorts and a former mining town—this is cowboy country, of the Snake River with an expansive space
after all. In fact, the town rodeo is still a big part of the local culture, old-timey Jackson Hole Vintage right near the town
saloons dot the streets and a pair of Clydesdales pulling a stagecoach can still Adventures, which gets square that features an
be seen clip-clopping down the road as a reminder of the area’s roots. high charm scores ever-changing roster of
When I touched down in this charming rancher-rich area with a group by culminating rides contemporary works
of girlfriends, we were warned that when it comes to cowboys, “the odds are with a warming meal by Damien Hirst,
good, but the goods are odd.” No matter—Jackson Hole is the perfect place served in a heated tent Warhol and promising
to experience a town caught between its past and its future. amid the snowdrifts; new talents.
122 ELLECANADA.COM
It’s a slice of Western

SHOP Americana that hasn’t
Dress the part. A sleek
changed much since
boîte of a boutique,
it opened in 1937.
Rodeo is your one-stop
Swish into a lunch fave.
shop for creating cowgirl-
The Spur’s ski-in, ski-out
chic looks for both on and
location in Teton Village
off the slopes. The racks
is bettered only by its
are expertly curated with
cheerful dining room and
the perfect elevated-
friendly, attentive staff.
mountain-town threads
It’s easy to while away Million Dollar Cowboy Bar
by the likes of Isabel A look from Rodeo
a sunny afternoon here
Marant, Moncler and
over an excellent burger,
Penelope Chilvers.
but you’d do well to work
off that lunch on the
slopes before the runs
DINE close at 4 p.m.
Treat yourself. If you
fancy a fancy night
out, Snake River Grill
is the place to do it.
APRÉS
Get authentic. The
The crackling central Caldera
Mangy Moose is a must
fireplace, tables House
for country-leaning live
dressed in white linen
music and a locals-only
and log-lined walls
take on the Jackson
all seem to whisper
post-ski scene. A
one suggestion: Order designed to reduce
relaxed dress code is
the steak. The juicy stress: Guests have
always in effect (think
10-ounce black Angus access to the private
toques and plaid), so
New York steak is clubhouse, which
check any attitude at
enough for two if has Scandinavian-
the door. The crowd
you order extra sides, inspired decor, and
might be rowdy, but the
like the Brussels the welcoming aroma
beer is cold and the bar
sprouts Caesar and of cedar envelops the
menu is tasty—the elk
the truffle fries. massive suites as the
chili gets my vote.
Live a rite of passage. floors and walls are
Warm up. RPK3 is the
After dinner, pay a visit tastefully covered
newest addition to the
to Million Dollar Cowboy in it. Plus, in-house
Teton Village après-
Bar. Grab a saddle seat ski valets, personal
ski scene. You can’t
at the bar and check out concierges and
do much better on a
the local talent (on the Old thoughtful itinerary
bluebird day than pair Yellowstone
stage and off), and then customization will
a sunny seat on the Garage
giddy-up and square have your cowgirl
patio here with a spicy
dance with cowboys heart soaring with joy.
margarita (called a
(who actually ride Get exclusive access.
Mama Picosa) and some
horses and work on local
house-made roasted-
Revisit the past. The DREAM Membership does have
ranches) to live music. Old Yellowstone Garage Snag a respite. its privileges, and one
pork taquitos.
is an iconic bar and Caldera House is a of them is access to a
restaurant from the fashionable but relaxed luxurious Jackson Hole
OG days of Jackson boutique hotel with private villa available
National Museum of Wildlife Art
Hole that was recently tons of architectural only through Exclusive
reopened in the stylish street cred thanks Resorts, an elite private
Caldera House hotel. An to its refined design, vacation club that
Italian-inspired menu is which thoughtfully provides an enviable
served up in a modern makes it blend into portfolio of villas and
alpine setting alongside the landscape. Guests opulent residences
impressive cocktails also have the easiest around the globe to
like the Bumble commute: It’s right next its members. The
Bee Jacket, which is to the tram—a coveted relaxed glamour
made with a lethal perk that provides of the 300-square-
combination of mezcal, quick access to Jackson metre Jackson Hole
tequila, local honey and Hole’s best-known runs. chalet is reason
house-made bitters. The entire hotel seems enough to join.
ELLECANADA.COM 123
DECOR
A Heart of
STONE
Why top designers are falling for bold, bright and boisterous marble.
By ERIN MCLAUGHLIN
124 ELLECANADA.COM
Jenna Lyons’ bathroom (left and above)

and the bathroom in Jake Moulson’s D2
Townhouse (right)
M any creatives wax lyrical

when discussing their passion
projects, but interior designers
and architects can be down-
right emotional about choosing a material for
a space. “It stopped me in my tracks,” remarks
style and lifestyle guru Athena Calderone of
Perhaps, as a reaction to our frantic made-
today-sold-tomorrow approach to consumption,
designers are drawn to the fact that these stones’
natural intensity took up to 200 million years to
form, as pressure and extreme heat worked their
magic on calcite and dolomite crystals. (And marble
is a geological baby compared to diamond, which
EyeSwoon. “I liked the movement and stormy can take up to 3.3 billion years.)
feel,” says award-winning London-based archi- The use of coloured marble isn’t uniquely
tect Jake Moulson wistfully. Calderone and modern—after all, the ancient Roman Pantheon’s
PHOTOGRAPHY, NICOLE FRANZEN (J. LYONS’ BATHROOM) & TIM CROCKER (D2 TOWNHOUSE)
Moulson aren’t referring to an expansive pan- oculus looks down on a dramatically patterned floor
orama or the beauty of a historic structure but of red and amber marble slabs. But the look does
rather individual slabs of extravagantly coloured have renewed appeal, especially for Jenna Lyons,
and patterned marble. a designer with inimitable style. In fact, the former
For the past few decades, Carrara and Calacatta creative director for J.Crew always looks to history
marbles, both cloud grey with soft veining, have when she renovates. Lyons’ jaw-dropping SoHo
been the obvious choices for residential spaces. Their loft is featured in Calderone’s upcoming book,
subtle tones bring natural texture and ambience to Live Beautiful. In the master bathroom, a thickly
otherwise neutral rooms. In contrast, cutting-edge skirted marble vanity balances on delicate bar-
designers like Moulson and Calderone are now oque-style bronze legs that Lyons patinated
pushing colour boundaries by using larger-than-life herself by spritzing them with saltwater spray
marble in intense hues for everything from counter- to accelerate the oxidization. The stone Lyons
tops to wall cladding. “People want to take risks and chose has bold and distinctive dark-green and
engage the unexpected, weird and unorthodox a bit purple veining that works beautifully with the
more now,” says Calderone. “Strong, contrasting verdigris. “Isn’t the marble just spectacular?”
and saturated hues are suddenly beloved across enthuses Calderone. “She wanted ‘life’—spills,
all materiality.” stains, the messy stuff—to colour her home.” h
ELLECANADA.COM 125
DECOR
(Images of Lyons’ previous Brooklyn brownstone have dominated Pinterest for years, and these photos of
her latest bathroom are sure to follow suit.)
“Spectacular” doesn’t come cheap. “A slab can cost upwards of $3,500,” says Brenda Izen, principal of
Izen Architecture, an award-winning Toronto-based studio that focuses on the design of high-end modern
homes. But that didn’t prevent Izen from getting one of her clients excited about using a dramatic green
marble, which she’s “obsessed with,” in their bathroom—a room where white once reigned supreme. “We’re
going to use it on every surface, including the walls, countertops, sinks and shower and tub surround. It’s
going to be show-stopping.”
Another exciting quality of these unforgettable stones is that they allow even the smallest of spaces to
have a staggering impact. When Moulson was working on a tiny bathroom in his acclaimed D2 Townhouse
in Dublin, he opted to cover the walls in floor-to-ceiling painterly lilac Azul Imperial. “I wanted it to meld
into the sky,” he explains. “It turned out quite well—particularly on a cloudy day.”
When it came time to choose a material for her own master bathroom, Calderone found herself
unexpectedly drawn to pink marble with intensely-rose-hued veins. The stone, which ended up cladding
her shower walls, had the suitably romantic name Rosa Aurora and swiftly stole her heart. “To be honest,
I never imagined that I would use pink, but I went with my instincts,” says Calderone. “Even my husband
loves it”—anecdotal evidence that the irresistible appeal of these unforgettable marbles is truly universal.
126 ELLECANADA.COM
LIFESTYLE
Statement pieces
Remember the last time you needed
to splurge on something beautiful,
even if it meant eating instant
ramen for three months? That ’s the
desire acclaimed Canadian interior
designers George Yabu and Glenn
Intel
THE LATEST IN LIFESTYLE NEWS.
Pushelberg want to evoke with their
new accessories and lifestyle line,
Departo—minus the price tag. Made
in collaboration with Yuichiro Hori,
founder of decor brand Stellar Works,
THIS MONTH, HAVE Departo’s minimalist-chic foldable
A DRINK ON US. furniture and versatile glassware and
stoneware are high-quality covetable
essentials that will follow you wherever
you go. (From $10, departo.co)
SHAKEN,
NOT STIRRED
Tempted to extend dry January into
February? Make it easier with Seedlip, the
world’s first distilled non-alcoholic spirits.
Botanical ingredients—like grapefruit,
sweet peas and lemon grass—are
distilled over a six-week period before
being bottled as one of three mocktail
bases. Each intensely flavoured option
is also sugar- and calorie-free. All you
need to do is grab a bottle (May we
suggest the citrusy Grove 42?) and mix
it with your favourite soda water for a
perfectly mimicked and sophisticated
drink. (From $45, seedlipdrinks.com)
Light up
Take a scented journey via candlelight with Toronto-based Lohn. The aesthetically
pleasing brand was started when two engineers who used to work at global
cosmetics companies teamed up to handcraft organic coconut- and soy-wax
candles inspired by their respective homelands of Poland and Lithuania. (Think
scents meant to capture the Baltic Sea and Tatra Mountains, though they do
custom orders as well.) A non-toxic-cotton core wick is added to the final products
before they’re packaged in recyclable glass, so you can feel as good about them
as they smell. ($39, shoplohn.com)
TEXT, PATRICIA KAROUNOS
ELLECANADA.COM 127
HOROSCOPE
VIRGO
AUG. 23 – SEPT. 22
You can look forward to
a fabulous month. Enjoy it
unreservedly, and wallow
wholeheartedly in the serene
joy you get from being yourself.
No one will reproach you for it
AQUARIUS
JAN. 20 – FEB. 18
because you work so hard at
building your own happiness.
LIBRA
SEPT. 23 – OCT. 22
It’s your birthday! Give yourself the This month will have a lot of ups
best gift of all: Listen to your intuition and downs. Sometimes you‘ll
be boosted by sincere encour-
because it’s your best guide and agement, but you’ll also be
you can only hear it if you stop trying plagued by doubt and cringe
to control everything. So let your at the slightest criticism. The
solution? Stay true to yourself,
mind wander and your body relax; your values and your aspira-
take a few minutes to meditate or do tions in order to stay on course,
even in the stormiest weather.
nothing at all. Once you’re connected
to your inner voice, you’ll be all SCORPIO
set to make healthy decisions, OCT. 23 – NOV. 21
It’s time to take a look at your
regardless of what they lead to. love life. If you’re single, try to
determine what pushes you
toward someone who isn’t
right for you or who doesn’t
Porcelain-clay and love you enough. If you’re in a
14- karat-gold earrings,
OXVC ($60 each,
relationship, you will come to
objectsbyvc.com) understand your sometimes
stifling insecurities or your need
for proof of your partner’s love.
PISCES TAURUS CANCER SAGITTARIUS

FEB. 19 – MARCH 20 APRIL 20 – MAY 20 JUNE 21 – JULY 22 NOV. 22 – DEC. 21
After a few weeks that may It’s true that money isn’t that You have a reputation for being You might be unusually quiet
be somewhat destabilizing, important—as long as you a dreamer, but you can still be this month, but you’re always
you’ll bounce back around have it. So a current financial practical when necessary. And thinking. You’ll be backed by
the 20th. Your thoughts will be situation will affect you a lot, a that’s a good thing, because a formidable quintet of planets
clearer, and you’ll have free little or not at all, depending on now that winter is here, reality while you work on all manner
rein to do what you like. Your whether you’ve been careful is going to catch up with you of projects and look for the
imagination will be in overdrive. with your pennies. Fortunately, in a big way. Be careful not to right opportunity to put them
TEXT, ALEX VALLIÈRES; STYLING, ELAINE JYLL REGIO; PHOTOGRAPHY, GEOFFREY ROSS
So now’s the time to go for it: your loved ones will come approach everything in crisis into action. This should be
Dream big and turn your back to the rescue; you’ll be blown mode, though—you don’t enough to distract you
on the past. away by their kindness. want to burn yourself out. from your lacklustre love life.
ARIES GEMINI LEO CAPRICORN

MARCH 21 – APRIL 19 MAY 21 – JUNE 20 JULY 23 – AUG. 22 DEC. 22 – JAN. 19
You have been fired up and You will feel out of sorts this Warning: Risk of emotional The planets are aligned
energized since the beginning month without knowing why. explosion ahead. That’s to be for you. You want to make
of the year. Expect a slight slow- You may feel like something expected, given that you tend to some important decisions
down around mid-February. is missing—maybe even take people and feelings a little about certain aspects of your
Sure, it’s frustrating, but why not a part of yourself. This is to too seriously. Will an inflated ego life—but don’t do it! Let the
take advantage of this deceler- be expected. My advice? be part of the picture? Maybe. cards fall where they may.
ation and ask yourself some Be patient until the end of But a little levity can go a long Leave yourself open to the
questions about your real March. That ’s when the skies way. For once, laugh at yourself unexpected, even if it scares
motivations? Just make sure will clear and the sun will and your shortcomings—and you. Detachment is the key to
you answer them truthfully. come out. other people’s shortcomings. true success for you.
128 ELLECANADA.COM
SHOPPING GUIDE
AGENT PROVOCATEUR agentprovocateur. At Sephora, sephora.ca. GUCCI gucci.com. com. PAI paiskincare.ca. PANTENE At drug-
com. ALAN CROCETTI alancrocetti.com. GUERLAIN At drugstores and mass-market stores and mass-market retailers. PHILOSOPHY
ALEXANDERWANG alexanderwang.com. retailers. HERMÈS hermes.com. HOLIFROG philosophy.com. PIXI BEAUTY At drugstores and
A.W.A.K.E. MODE awake-mode.com. BATISTE holifrog.com. JESSIE WESTERN jessiewestern. mass-market retailers. REIKE NEN reikenen.com.
At drugstores and mass-market retailers. com. KATHRYN BOWEN kathrynbowen. REN CLEAN SKINCARE At Sephora, sephora.
BEAUFILLE beaufille.com. BOTTEGA VENETA com. LANCÔME lancome.ca. LIVE THE ca. REVLON At drugstores and mass-market
bottegaveneta.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI PROCESS livetheprocess.com. L’OCCITANE retailers. RUI ZHOU ruiofficial.me. SAINT
brunellocucinelli.com. CALZEDONIA se. loccitane.ca. L’ORÉAL PARIS At drugstores and LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO ysl.
calzedonia.com. CARTIER cartier.com. CHANEL mass-market retailers. LOUIS VUITTON louis com. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ferragamo.
chanel.com. CHRISTOPHER KANE christopher vuitton.com. MICHAEL KORS michaelkors. com. SERGIO ROSSI sergiorossi.com. SPACE
PHOTOGRAPHY, ROYAL GILBERT
kane.com. CHROME HEARTS chromehearts. ca. MIU MIU miumiu.com. MURAD At Sephora, COWBOY spacecowboyboots.com. STELLA
com. CLYDE clyde.world. COACH coach.com. sephora.ca. NATUROPATHICA At The Detox MCCARTNEY stellamccartney.com. TATA
DANNIJO dannijo.com. DION LEE dionlee. Market, thedetoxmarket.ca. NENSI DOJAKA HARPER At Holt Renfrew, holtrenfrew.com; Saks
com. EMILY KOWALIK emilykowalik.com. nensidojaka.com. OLAY At drugstores and Fifth Avenue, saks.com; Gee Beauty, geebeauty.ca.
FENTY BEAUTY fentybeauty.com. GIORGIO mass-market retailers. OPI At Hudson’s Bay, TOGA toga.jp.UNRAVEL PROJECT bentaverniti
ARMANI armani-beauty.ca. GLOW RECIPE thebay.com. PACO RABANNE pacorabanne. unravelproject.com. VERSACE versace.com.
ELLECANADA.COM 129
FINALE
The FUTURE’S Not Ours TO SEE

SPRING, LIKE FASHION WEEK, is a time when we collectively look forward and think about what’s
new and next, what fresh trends glimmer on the horizon. But for his epic spring/summer 2020
show, consummate showman Marc Jacobs opted to look back instead, crafting a staggering
collection of disparate, riotous looks that honour the inspirations we’ve lost—Karl Lagerfeld and
Lee Radziwill, Doris Day and Anita Pallenberg. The only connective stitch? The throbbing pulse
of happiness infused into each look. As “Dream a Little Dream of Me” filled the cavernous Park
Avenue Armory in New York, the gang of models appeared all at once, walking and dancing
TEXT, KATE SOMERVILLE; PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY
freely across the space as editors and celebrities sat, mouths agape. There were no obvious trends,
no colours of the season, no signature hairstyles—only an eight-minute celebration of visceral
individuality. Jacobs wrote in his show notes: “Tonight is our reminder of the joy in dressing
up, our unadulterated love of fashion and embracing grand gestures of unbridled expressions,
reactions, ideas and possibilities.”
130 ELLECANADA.COM
H T E N
G
UP
LI
TAKETHE
*
TWO- WEEK
CHALLENGE
TRAPS&REMOVES
the waste that weighs you down
Take Metamucil for just

14 days and begin to feel Join the challenge at
Metamucil.ca
what lighter feels like.
*By relieving irregularity. To ensure this product is right for you, always read and follow the label.

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