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Apparel Online India January 1 15 2016 PDF
Apparel Online India January 1 15 2016 PDF
Apparel Online India January 1 15 2016 PDF
Editor-in-Chief
CONTENTS
DEEPAK MOHINDRA
Editor
ILA SAXENA
Copy Editor
VEERESHWAR SOBTI
January 1-15, 2016
Asst. Copy Editor
SAHIL SEHGAL
Asst. Editor-News
DHEERAJ TAGRA
Asst. Editor
NEHA CHHETRI
Sr. Correspondent-Textiles
SANJOGEETA OJHA
Sr. Correspondent-Fashion
KALITA LAMBA
Sr. Executive-Advertising
D K CHUGH
Creative Team
RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL
PEEUSH JAUHARI
SATYAPAL BISHT
Photo Editor
SUMIT THARAN
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DESK
R E W I N D 2 0 15
January 16-31
Nothing has changed… except, of course, the year!
New Year gift from the AEPC comes as a shocker to all Apparel House showroom holders enquiring about schedules
of India Market Days to be held at the Apparel House for the year 2015 since EC Committee decides to discontinue
the event… The callous attitude of the EC Committee continues as they did not have courtesy to inform the showroom
holders of their decision immediately after the meeting…
February 1-15
Companies moving towards social sustainability… NGOs think otherwise
So much talk is happening on the sustainability front… and the major element within the concept is ‘employee
engagement’ and ‘social and environment responsibility’. NGOs seem to think that nothing has changed and there
is more talk than action. So what is the real story… Are the workers still being grossly exploited as claimed or are the
NGOs propagating the same for their own livelihood…!
February 16-28
Are we tackling labour issues responsibly...?
The number of worker-related violence is disturbingly on the increase in the garment export industry in the Delhi-
NCR region. Over the last few years, big names like Viva Global, CTA Apparels, Modelama and Orient Craft have
witnessed angry workers pelting stones and destroying property leading to riot-like situations, halting work and
calling for immediate management intervention for damage control. In all these cases the situation could have been
averted…
March 1-15
Is ‘Make in India’ enough for true growth?
‘Make in India’ is an excellent initiative by the Government of India…, but the concept is nothing new… What is new is
the single-minded thrust which the current Government is giving to this newly coined term. To succeed, we should first
‘Make India’, turning the country into a worthy place for ‘Make in India’ and that can only be done if we have ‘Clean
India’, ‘Skilled India’ and ‘Corruption-free India’. The rest will follow automatically…
March 16-31
The fight for Accountability and Transparency is far from over…
Change at the AEPC can happen only with a new team and that is only possible if every exporter registered with the
AEPC is given a fair opportunity to vote for their representatives. Last year, a group of exporters under the aegis of
AHEA had taken the bold initiative to drag the AEPC and the MoT to court demanding implementation of the Electronic
Voting System (EVS), mandating adoption of EVS by all councils, including the AEPC…
April 1-15
Government funds must be judiciously given, used and accounted for…
How serious is the Government on long-term sustenance of the handicraft and handloom sectors! When disbursing
funds allotted for developing handloom clusters, the absence of a vision is visible in the selection of the final candidate
to implement projects. Many micro and macro level schemes have been initiated with the agenda to develop
handloom clusters; several crores of rupees in funds have reportedly gone into these projects, but not even one cluster
has emerged as a benchmark…
April 16-30
One disappointment after the other!
The Modi Government has not given the garment industry the necessary thrust to be among the manufacturing
industries of preferences. While the Government gave its nod to the MGNREGA scheme, the garment manufacturing
industry was not connected to it; similarly new textile policy and the suggested changes in the labour laws remain a
dream! Even the first full year budget was devoid of any benefit to the industry…
May 1-15
Change is in the air... finally!
In our determination to put apparel exports on fast-track, we have been consistently pointing out the urgent need for
change in the way the AEPC is functioning… Over the last few years, some committed people from the industry have
come forward to share their experiences and concerns... As media we have honestly put these on our pages for the
industry to evaluate and take a stand... Rarely does one get the chance to be a part of an unfolding change…, one
that we have stood for, for a long time… But it happened with us on our recent visit to the Textiles Ministry as a part of
a small, but highly motivated and determined delegation of industry colleagues… The open and honest acceptance
that there were serious issues in export promotion that needed attention was a big high, but the declaration that the
Ministry has already passed an order of making EVS mandatory for AEPC, was a triumph for the group.
May 16-31
Paying tribute to an icon of the industry: Kanval Dhillon
The usual hustle-bustle of Monday morning was broken by a message from Leela, a good friend… Kanval Dhillon
(MD, K Dhillon & Co.) passed away on Sunday, 3rd May 2015, much before her time. Even as we at Apparel Online
were absorbing the news, the messages started pouring in, all wanted to share their grief…AO’s tribute to a lady who
touched many hearts in the industry…
June 1-15
Two important news in the recent fortnight caught my attention...
Two news that impact the industry – IAM (Institute of Apparel Management) in Gurgaon, has violated the UGC
norms by signing a MoU with Mewar University for granting of degrees without UGC’s permission. Secondly, the
Government’s announcement allowing children below the age of 14 to work with their parents in homeworkers-
environment after their school hours or during vacation deprives them of all their rights evoked a strong reaction
from some quarters… I personally feel that this move was long overdue and it has laid to rest fears that traditional
crafts that are passed down through generations, will die out if children of artisans are not allowed to work and
learn the craft.
June 16-30
Garmenting is the driver for growth in textile value chain… It’s time Ministry recognized this!
The focus for the Government (Textiles Ministry) has always been for the poor, and schemes which appeal to masses
have been promoted and cleared… The handlooms sector is the obvious choice for schemes and incentives since the
sector represents clusters of poor artisans, and announcing of such schemes gets good media time. Is it not ironic that
the segment that gets maximum benefits and media attention is actually the worst off!
July 1-15
Are businesses really professional?
There are professionally managed businesses, and there are businesses wherein I recognize an owner as professional
too. In that lies the difference in their success levels. The former knows that the business depends on people; it is these
people who manage the show, so they deserve all the respect and grooming. It’s all about recruiting and retaining the
right people…, making them responsible and responsive to take on bigger roles.
July 16-31
Is the depreciated rupee helping exporters...?
Exports are picking up and for the right price; within this scenario the community is happily claiming that business
is growing too. Statistics also corroborate the fact as business grew 12.2% in dollar terms in the FY 2014-15. Even
the regular analysis done by my team for our data pages shows that despite market conditions, India made steady
progress in both the US and European markets on both quantities and values in 2014.
August 1-15
Social issues hounding the industry; combine efforts by stakeholders the only solution
Two recent reports – Workers being shoddily treated at factories, a PUDR report; and report by Savethe Children, an
NGO, claiming 8,044 children between 6-18 years working in the garment industry have painted a very negative
picture of the industry. Isolated meetings and finger pointing reports are not going to get results; synergy of thought
and a collective effort to find solutions is required to get results.
August 16-31
Have the apparel institutes failed the industry and the students?
Interviewing some youngsters for the organization and their naive responses to my very simple questions got me thinking...
Are the institutes actually not doing a disservice to the students and the industry, by putting on blinkers and not evolving
with time? Institutes must spend enough time and energy on reviewing curriculums, and encourage their faculty to be
industry-informed; time and again the importance of staying abreast with industry needs by institutes has been stressed.
September 1-15
AEPC elections in December... Will EVS implementation be a turning point?
EVS has been a long standing demand and the AEPC management body has been resisting the move for long,
despite repeated notifications from the Textiles Ministry. But this time, the pressure and intensity was too strong for
resistance, and the EVS system is in place! Even the Textiles Minister suggested that we get support from the industry
to include all registered exporters in the election process.
September 16-30
Notifications on sustainable initiatives fail to garner response from industry... Are they too busy to care!
Of late many new notifications are being issued by both the Central and State Governments with regard to
sustainable initiatives for the common good of the public. While these notifications indicate the growing acceptance
of the need for sustainable practices for industry to grow and compete on a global platform, the slow implementation
and cold-shoulder response of the industry is disappointing.
October 1-15
Apparel House under the scanner!
When the Apparel House was allotted to exporters’ in 2007, 242 showrooms promised to attract business for the
lotunder the umbrella of Apparel International Mart (AIM)...; eight years later there are only 67 showrooms left and 50
companies maintaining the same! Today, a small group of showroom owners under the aegis of AHEA (Apparel House
Exporters Association) are fighting a lonely battle for their right to receive export promotion support at the venue…
October 16-31
We need to revamp the structure and functioning of Export Promotion Councils…
A lot has been said on how Export Promotion Councils are functioning or rather not functioning… In Bangladesh, the
impact which BGMEA has on the RMG sector and the confidence with which it functions can be seen. But the same is
missing in India… There are 10 EPCs under the Ministry of Textiles... Do we really need so many councils?
November 1-15
Is the TPP scare justified?
There has been much talk about the impact of the TPP (Trans-Pacific Partnership) on exports from India... At a recent
event many top honchos of textile companies expressed fear of losing out on business at every stage of the textile
chain from spinning to garmenting. But are the fears real or are they just hype?Industry watchers say the signing of
the TPP will adversely impact the global business of Indian industry, I think otherwise…
November 16-30
Is the Buyer only worried about price?
It is strange that we all keep talking about change, and the fact that most of it is Buyer-driven… The requirement to be
a preferred supplier keeps growing and so do the efforts of the industry to keep pace… Talking to a Buyer or reading
about his sourcing strategy, impresses one with issues like social sustainability, environmental concerns and safety
issues, but in reality he cares for Price, Price and Price only…
December 1-15
AEPC Elections: Your business is at stake…
If you wish to govern the Indian Nation, spend ten thousand rupees and fight the elections; but if you have to govern
AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council), you need to spend one lakh rupees... I think the blame lies with entire
apparel export community as most do not even care to apply for the voting right… There are around 4,000 exporters
who are eligible to vote but never care to apply to be members (only 700 at present have registered).
December 16-31
Has the first spark of change just happened with EVS?
An interesting outcome of the EVS is the appeals which have come in from the candidates for the AEPC elections...
It seems like a Goliath vs. David story, where a small exporter who has shown the courage to enter the fray is pitted
against big names that have been at the helm of affairs for a long time. We will know pretty soon the fate of this
historic clash, but what is for sure is that the first spark of change has happened…
MINDTREE R E W I N D 2 0 15
S O M E I N T E R E S T I N G R E P L I E S R E C E I V E D F R O M T H E I N D U S T R Y. . .
domestic Indian market with own brands areas with dense population like Orissa,
RHAM, RHAM GOLD and BLUROLLER West Bengal, Bihar and also Kashmir
and growing. – Raghavendra K S, Director – where at present handloom sector is
Business Development, Rhamkumaar Impex, prevalent. – Shiv Bhargava, President,
Bangalore Exporters Grievances Association, Noida
May 1-15 June 1-15
Q: Increasingly Payment terms must be prioritized over Q: Often dates of The clashing of dates is due to
new buyers are better margins; even if a buyer’s prices international fairs lack of communication and proper
deceiving exporters are ‘sharp’ but he is willing to part an clash disappointing planning… The concerned ministry
by placing orders advance or open clean sight LCs from Indian exporters… needs to step in to sort this out, and
and not making prime banks, let this be the criteria for Any suggestions those involved in managing and
final payments taking orders. DP (Documents against on improving such organizing such international fairs and
after shipment; Payments) and DA (Documents against promotional events? exhibitions also need to take care of
any solutions to Acceptance) terms should be firmly turned such occurrences. Also, many of the
plug them?
down by exporters unless the buyer is organizing committee members who
a well-known person. Exporters should are into exports have their own interest
also get a D&B (Dun & Bradstreet) report to grind and are not working as hard as
on all buyers irrespective of ECGC they ought to. – Pradeep Nahata, Director,
cover. – S. Srinivasan, Country Head, India, Karni Exports, Jaipur
Mulitex Ltd., Chennai June 16-30
May 16-31 Q: The Rajasthan This is going to have a big impact on
Q: Recently It’s certainly a very welcome and State Pollution export to traditional markets like Japan
Foundation Stones of encouraging development initiated by Control Board issued and Europe as many designers from all
two garment making the Textiles Ministry. It has gradually closure notices to over the world are visiting Sanganeer.
centres were laid in and increasingly become very difficult 893 textile units in The city is main centre for hand block
Sikkim and Imphal, to survive in the apparel trade in areas Sanganeer followed and hand screen printing and India’s
both in the North- around the big current hubs like the NCR, by 739 textile units in image as an exporter started with ethnic
East. Do you favour Jodhpur. Why is the
Bangalore, Bombay, Chennai and Tirupur. designs from here in the 1970s. I think
setting up a factory in industry not serious to
Government should set up such textile NGT and Pollution Board should give a
this region? such issues...?
hubs around the country, especially in final deadline, say 6 months to a year,
and in the meantime the Government of 10 years. We have policies which attracts
Rajasthan and the Centre should jointly the staff/workers, like offering flats/
look for alternatives. – Deepak Vijay, housing facilities to middle-level
CEO, Enn Enn Expo International, Delhi staff who complete 10 years with us.
July 1-15 Besides, worker’s loyalty is the top-most
Q: In recent years The certifications are important requirements and that is not possible
we have seen an and improve the working standards without their engagement. – Zahir Sait,
increase in the and ensure correct discipline in the Managing Partner/CEO, International
number of companies business practice. While GOTS, Trading Company, Yercaud (Tamil Nadu)
going in for various WRAP and SEDEX are related to September 1-15
certifications – social and ecological compliance, Q: The Central Being based in Varanasi, I can say that
GOTS to WRAP to ISO applies to the processes and Government has this traditional culture of handloom
SEDEX to ISO. Do declared 7th August is almost dying as the community
standards followed by any organization.
these certificates as the National
In our experience we have seen that which is involved with handloom is
actually help in Handloom Day
having these certificates certainly struggling to survive, so such kind of
securing business…? every year Do you
gives one a different identity in the steps are welcome. However, I have
global market and sets you apart from feel that this is a two suggestions – first, there should
the mass. – Asmita, Export Manager, good move…?
be a brand ambassador for handloom
Mallcom India, Kolkata products; and secondly, sincere efforts
July 16-31 should be made to build awareness
Q: According to a Our Government’s friendly gesture and market and promote handloom
recent report, a group to the neighbour country Bangladesh at domestic and international levels. –
of industrialists from is not at all a welcome step for our Amitabh Singh, Director, Sorreal System/
Bangladesh want to textile fraternity, it is also being felt President, Eastern Uttar Pradesh Exporter’s
set up a 1,000-store Association, Varanasi
as a suicidal one, and the reason is
retail chain in India. September 16-30
that next to agriculture the greatest
Do you support employment generating industry is Q: AEPC Elections are Certainly yes, this time more and more
the move…? slated for December exporters would cast their votes due to
textile. Though we are a populous
nation, next only to China, the 2015 and this time it the EVS. But I have my doubts about
‘blessing in disguise’ is that more will be held through how democratic the selection procedure
EVS (Electronic Voting is as most of the time we have the
than 60 per cent of it falls under 35
System). Will it bring same faces being repeated. I may
years of age group. Our Government
any change…?
should work to uplift this share to at be aware and even familiar with the
least 15-20 per cent, considering the person contesting from my zone and his
cotton production and population working or intension, but for candidates
strength we have. – Raja M. Shanmugham, from other zones, it is difficult to make
MD, Warsaw International, Tirupur a decision. – Ajay Mehta, Proprietor,
August 1-15 Nidhi Design, Jaipur
Following fashion trends is number October 1-15
Q: There seems to
be a positive vibe all one point; Secondly, we are using Q: For the first time I feel it is too early to say anything
around..., exporters advance machines and latest leading industrialists about the impact or result of this
are busy and buyers technology in all the processes. It is Mukesh Ambani and meeting as both Mukesh Ambani and
are looking at India not only about the manufacturing or Kumar Mangalam Kumar Mangalam Birla are corporate
more aggressively... using ERP, but also having a strong Birla met and giants and have multi-directional
Please share with internet. Thirdly, it is your relation expressed concern business in textile or apparel industry
us your five tips over the state of the
with workers. Fourth it is the quality rather than focusing only on garment
to success. textiles sector… This
which matters ultimately. Lastly, it is export business. But the Government
meet’s impact on
pollution – we all should learn a should promote SME sector especially
the industry…?
lesson from Tirupur… as soon ‘Zero in export; and secondly, address the
Liquid Discharge’ will be ‘a must’ in increasing competition from China. –
all the states. – Davinder Sandhu, MD, Pavneet Singh, Owner, Aiwit Fashion, Delhi
Davinder Sandhu Impex Ltd., Ludhiana
August 16-31 October 16-31
Q: Many exporters Most of the players in the industry Q: There is a global Suggestions are at two levels: personal
today talk are complaining about price pressure movement to increase or individual level; and at Government or
about employee and unavailability of workers, which wages at all garment policy level. At individual level, we saved
engagement. Is your is right to some extent. But I strongly manufacturing a lot by educating the workers/staff,
company making any believe that it all depends on your destinations; on the controlling the rejection rate, being strict
activity for employee policies – how you manage things other hand retail on our TNA calendar, and improved
engagement...? and your long-term planning. In my prices are being
buyers’ services. At the Government or
factory at least 55 per cent of the pushed downwards…
policy level, changes in labour laws or
Your comment…?
workers have been working with us some decision favouring the garment
for last 7 years and about 40 per cent exporters is required. – Rajinder Jamwal,
of the middle-level staff from the last Partner, Trend Exports, Noida
BUSINESS
STR ATEGIES
R E W I N D 2 0 15
G L O B A L S T R AT E G I E S F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L B U S I N E S S
May 16-31
May 1-15 January 16-31
People, the force
Ginza Industries Bhandari Hosiery
behind Texperts’
Limited: The largest Exports taking the
success; Innovation
integrated exporter sustainable route for
and creativity keys
of lingerie in India… growth
to future growth
March 1-15
Living by the philosophy of ‘Being the biggest September 16-30
and the best’, Sahiba Limited on expansion spree Eastman Exports’ e-Commerce initiative
a success… Data analysis and quality,
The determination to be different as also the zeal to be the biggest in whatever key to growth
they do has propelled Sahiba Limited into the big league of value-added
fabrics. This Surat-based company is a true integrated setup for all types of
finished fabrics for both the international and domestic market. Unlike many Consistent growth, backed by quality product and
other fabric suppliers in Surat, the company does not believe in getting any responsive service that can guarantee complete
work outsourced, and has built in-house capabilities for processing, embroidery customer satisfaction, defines the winning strategy
and most recently digital printing. Team AO met two of the enterprising next at Eastman Exports, Tirupur, driven by the vision and
generation inheritors of the company – Jashpreet Saluja and Aman Saluja – for acumen of N Chandran, CMD of one of India’s top
a rundown on what keeps this innovative group motivated… apparel export companies. Taking forward his dynamic
legacy is his son Cibi Karthic, who is not only learning
the nuances of the export business, but has also been
“Though we are a family business, we run instrumental in starting a new vertical through an
the company in a very professional way. in-house brand ‘Huetrap’, which is their vehicle to
Each department is headed by a family enter the e-Commerce domain. Speaking exclusively
member, supported by a well-trained to the father-son duo, Apparel Online unravels
team, many of whom have been with us the new vertical of the company and the changing
for years.” – Aman Saluja business dynamics.
SPECIAL
FEATURES
R E W I N D 2 0 15
U P F R O N T I N D U S T R Y TA K I N G L E A D
C
value addition, intricate detailing and flexibility in manufacturing. ommunication plays a major role in enhancing businesses and while
However, instead of easing the competition, it created a whole new many IT tools are being used to monitor and improve systems within
circle of struggle, as everyone in the region was making similar the factory, there are very few times when we see the industry utilizing
products and the buyers were spoilt for choices. To fight such fierce tools such as WhatsApp effectively. When Whatsapp becomes not just
competition, NCR exporters started to differentiate and develop some a mode of communication but also of collaboration, between players
core strengths... of the textile industry of Tamil Nadu, it gives rise to Indian Texpreneurs
Federation (ITF). Currently having 3 different groups on WhatsApp
consisting of 200 young entrepreneurs, ITF is bringing together collective
Gurmeet Singh,
intelligence and inclusive growth between all its members along the
Owner, Fredbi Fashions textile value chain.
“It’s like putting all eggs in one
basket, which is quite risky, believe Prabhu Dhamodharan, Secretary, ITF
most exporters, but this kind of an “Once the Regional Comprehensive
operational strategy has worked for Economic Partnership (RCEP) comes
us. Earlier it was Hettlage and now into practice, cotton textiles will get an
it is M&S. 80% of our business is advantage because China is imposing
owned by M&S…” duty on yarn and fabric from India till
now, which we are expecting will come
Sidharth Sawnhey, down to zero. We are definitely more
Director, Indian Hand Fabs competitive in cotton textiles than China.
Through ITF, we are representing the
“The buyers, who come to us, know whole value chain, so that we can come
they are going to get a different together for a common programme and
product, difficult to duplicate. No speak in a single cohesive language to
buyer ever comes to us for a basic the world and the Government…”
garment. We are capable of providing
any value addition or detailing that is
required by our customers…” Srihari Balakrishnan,
President, KG Fabriks Ltd.
“Here we are trying to be self-
Sanjay Chawla,
sustainable and use everybody’s
Owner, Cotton Harbour
intelligence to sustain in a cooperative
“If a buyer comes up to me for a competition… “Our business is like our
product, I wouldn’t want him to go DNA. At the end of the day, no one can
to some other factory in the same copy my DNA and I cannot copy anyone
region for another product. I do else’s, so where is the fear? For me, it
smaller quantities and my USP is to has been a learning experience. We are
provide any kind of product that my learning from each other and together,
buyer would want…” we represent huge numbers.”
March 1-15
STRATEGIES SET THROUGH IDENTIFICATION OF STRENGTHS PUSHING
LUDHIANA TOWARDS NEXT PHASE
M oving slowly from family run businesses (lala culture) to professionally-run organizations, Ludhiana-based garment exporters are moving
forward by identifying their strengths and setting strategies for growth, be it focusing more on product development, creating product
niche, working with a set kind of buyers or increasing thrust on technology. With second generation of the business taking the lead role, these
strategies are proving successful which is motivating not only for them, but also for the entire industry to initiate more of such focused strategies.
Apparel Online recently met 4 progressive companies on their growth strategies...
VK Goyal, ED & CEO of Akhil Seth, Director, “The time we are able Amit Jain, second
the SEL Manufacturing Versatile Enterprises to save by outsourcing generation of the
Company Limited of knitting and dyeing business and President,
“Even till date most people
is more precious than Shingora Textiles
“For the time being, we don’t know what the
the little extra cost that
want our business to be applications of laminated “We are focused and
we pay, which in reality
less complex; therefore, bonded fabrics are... so specialize more in
hardly matters in the final
at present, we don’t work we show them complete design inputs, we don’t
costing of the end-product.
with the giants, who product applications. With want to get into mass
By putting the extra time
have more elaborated our experience of exports, volume fabrics, but we
in garmenting, we get
and complex demands. we are now on the lookout do want to be present
better margins and faster
However, going forward, to invest in machinery for in very specialized
deliveries.” – Kanwardeep
we shall certainly plan to seam sealed garments. areas, so we are trying
Singh, MD and Pavneet
work with giant retailers Once we finalize the to get into this kind of
Singh, ED of the
like Walmart, Target, machines, we will use our fabrics.... For me, PD
Grandway Incorporated
Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, in-house fabric advantage is about fundamental
who initiated garmenting
UCB, GAP, etc. to name to manufacture cost- changes in products.”
and are now expecting 25
a few, and many others effective workwear and we
per cent growth. Ishpaul
across the globe. Though, are sure for further growth
Singh, Chairman is the
we can certainly deal with with these products…”
guiding force behind the
the complexities but that
company. The company
has a higher cost and you
works only with the US
have to spend larger share
buyers and that too with
of limited and expensive
those offering volumes
management time.”
(basic minimum 25,000
pieces; colours may be
5 or more).”
BUYERS
S P E A K…
R E W I N D 2 0 15
B U Y E R S B AT F O R C H A N G E W I T H S U G G E S T I O N S
October 16-31
VASTRA 2015: BUYERS’ FEEDBACK
I t was the third and the last day of the recently concluded Vastra 2015 in Jaipur and there were very few buyers at the venue. Most of them claimed
to be wholesalers, but their sourcing is very limited and in fact they seemed to be very small buyers. However, to their satisfaction, the buyers
claimed to have found whatever they were looking for. Since many of them are frequently sourcing from the ‘Pink City’, Apparel Online tried to
figure out what exactly they are looking for and their wish list to improve Jaipur as a sourcing hub. The organizers claimed that 250 buyers and
more than 150 buying agents/buying houses visited the fair, but visibility was not so high...
August 1-15
BUYER’S PERSPECTIVE
Indian industry growing… But problems still persist
A survey conducted by AO revealed that while the bigger exporters are working mostly through buying houses and liaison offices, there are over
1,000 exporters who are doing an annual business of an average Rs. 15 crore per year and primarily working with small- and medium-size
wholesalers, importers and small chain stores from various countries. While many of these small buyers have been working in India for a long time
and many have even accepted the vagaries of working in the country, the urge to see a change is obvious.
Korabelskaya Natalia,
Marina Potemkina, Head Head of Production Team,
of Purchase Department, Department of Men’s
Fashion-Sport, Russia & Ladies’ garments,
“Quality of Indian products is accessories, Snejnaya Tracey Farrington,
not best but is acceptable, like Koroleva, a retail chain of MD, Bondi Beach Bag
sometimes they have issues 100 stores Co., Fiji, a wholesaler
in stitching also,” she claims “We are sourcing men’s and & importer of fashion Koki Veber, Director,
“Indian exporters should also ladies garments from India apparel & accessories. Sariko, Slovenija
increase focus on products since the last five years
“I wish to shift some Chinese “My sales girls always ask me
like jackets and skiwear,” but Indian manufacturer’s
order of hats to India, but that why there is invariably a
she concluded.” production period is very long.
India does not have many of difference between what we
I can’t understand why it is so.”
the required raw materials approve and what we get!
and I am forced to source it Even in small lots of say 300
from China.” pieces, the goods are not
the same when compared to
the sample.”
February 16-28
SMALL- AND MEDIUM-LEVEL
BUYING HOUSES FACING
DIFFICULTIES IN QUICK SOURCING ON THE INCREASE
SHIFTING MARKET SCENARIO
February 1-15
HUBS
UPDATE
R E W I N D 2 0 15
August 16-31 3
2
FRESH THRUST TO
INDUSTRY IN WEST 4
1
BENGAL; KOLKATA
STRENGTHENING AS
SOURCING HUB
January 16-31
LUDHIANA SPINNERS LOOKING TO EXPAND UNDETERRED BY EXCESS SUPPLY OF YARN…
O nce considered as the nerve centre for the textile industry with big names like Vardhman, Oswal, Nahar and Trident, based in the city,
Ludhiana had a thriving business in both cotton and acrylic yarn; however now the city is losing its sheen with many of the top mills looking for
greener pastures in other States like Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. As spindle capacities of the country increase manifolds, Punjab
spinners are finding new ways to remain competitive. Team Apparel Online recently met top spinners in Ludhiana to check ground realities…
February 16-28
LACE MAKERS OF SURAT ON CREATIVE HIGH
Business growing for companies investing in Product Development
T he city of Surat is known for two very creative businesses – textiles and laces. Over the years, the manufacturers and traders have upskilled
their businesses with the result that today the textile segment is offering innovative designs and a wide product range that has moved beyond
manmade processed fabrics to cotton and cotton blends. Not far behind are the city’s lace manufacturers, who have invested not only in the latest
machines but also in design team, to offer an amazing range of laces. What’s interesting is that every manufacturer is being driven by his desire to
be differentiated from his competitors, and since Surat is a small city, most of the players are aware of each other’s strengths and have respect for
individual competencies. Team AO recently met some lace manufacturers in Surat and was fascinated by their beautiful creations…
Dalpat J. Kaswala of Manoj V. Jariwala, Paras Jariwal of Naveen Seksaria, Vasudev Kachiwala,
King Laces Nilesh Ribbon Industries Jariwal Industries looking after the Schiffli Global Lace Collection
“The Surat lace industry “While we are doing our own “With our production Division at Armo “We are creators and our
has been nurtured on developments for the local capacities increasing, Synthetics expertise is to visualize how
copying of designs either market, the requirements for we could not survive on “Our integrated strength the strengths of different
from the movies or from the international market are reproducing what was enables us to offer different manufacturers can be
leading designers! Till more standardized and the already running in the finishes, colours and put together to develop a
about a decade ago, no play is mostly on colour.” market, so we decided to washes in laces all within new concept which is very
effort was made to invest in create our own market and a stipulated time and exclusive, high-end and
product development...” also charge a better price...” price framework.” difficult for others to copy.”
June 1-15
MEERUT ALL SET TO TRANSFORM FROM SPORTS
GOODS CAPITAL TO SPORTSWEAR HUB FAIRS RE VIE WED BY
T E A M A P P A R E L O N L I N E I N 2 0 15
April 16-30
“With the new and advanced factory, we
expect to increase our volume of exports
Spring Edition 2015 – Quality visitation at
and try working with the top brands,” says Intertextile Shanghai – China dominates fabric
Manik Mahajan, CEO & Partner. He also section; India and Pakistan major players in
feels that Meerut’s proximity to Delhi works cotton yarn
to its advantage in ensuring easy access to
raw materials and ease of communication May 1-15
with prospective buyers. ‘Diwali Mela’ in Vegas... but at what cost…?
Is this the way to promote Indian exports on a
global platform?
October 16-31
4th edition of Vastra: Everything, but the buyers,
Many sportswear manufacturers in Meerut are doing quality work like offering were fine!
various sports uniforms, capris, T-shirts, lowers, track pants, etc. SFE
Sportswear – exporting to USA, UK, Australia, Brazil and UAE, received an November 1-15
award from JCM International Inc., USA for its efforts in achieving the quality. Autumn 2015 edition of the India Handicrafts
Ajay Puri, Director and Kanchan Puri, Design Head of the company lead and Gifts Fair (IHGF) - A tricky question all are
their team with complete involvement which results in quality products – the asking… Will Europe pick up soon?
strength of the company.
FASHION
BUSINESS
R E W I N D 2 0 15
A Y E A R T H AT S E T FA S H I O N T R E N D S…
T he fashion world is a
cyclical amalgamation
of old styles in new
W ith skinny jeans
and slim-fits slowly
becoming a thing of the
interpretations; sometimes past, culottes in different
that manifests in ways that lengths and varied guises
we prefer the older version are entering the industry via
than the new. Bell-bottoms, the runways to the streets.
pants with legs that become Valentino’s Pre-Fall ’15
wider below the knee, collection conceded denim
were an extremely popular adaptations of wide legged
fashion during the 1960s calf length pants, whereas,
and 1970s. The belled or BCBG Max Azria and Carven
flared legs on bell-bottom presented formal looking
pants were originally a wide hem cropped culottes
functional design, worn by in heavy weight taffeta and
those who worked on boats pinstriped fabrics. Culottes
Valentino
since the 17th century. were officially named
The large legs allowed the the ‘must have’ pants for
pants to be easily rolled spring but with exporters
up out of the way of messy converting these styles in
jobs and if a sailor fell winter suitable fabrics; this
overboard, bell-bottom silhouette has become a fall
pants could be pulled off collection staple.
Rachel Comey
over boots or shoes and the
wide legs inflated with air
for use as a life preserver. Ellery
Rachel Zoe April 16-30
S I L H O U E T T E / C U T O F T H E Y E A R…
September 1-15
ASYMMETRY!
C O L O U R O F T H E Y E A R… B L U S H !
A symmetrical hems by
nature are sexy as
T he blushing colours
showering itself in a
greater way, particularly
associated by the uneven
cut that flows along when
walking, highlighting
taking over the resort 2016 the legs and the
and Menswear S/S ’16 movement more. Though
collections have marked a stereotypically pushed into
point of growing feminism in the category of summer,
today’s world. Spotted all over asymmetrical hems have
the place and being dubbed become a dynamic fashion
as the new white, Blush has which flows with ease
the flexibility to look sweet across, summer and fall
and to look sharp. Without seasons. This fashion has
a doubt, one of the best been predicted to be in
features of Versace in Resort full bloom in the next few
is time which was her array of seasons. Asymmetrical
smart suits in the same colour skirt hems are back on
range. Be it fur coats in blush the runway and they look
at Jason Wu or gentle flowing more glamorous than ever
garments at Max Mara prove in the Fall 2015 fashion
the capacity of the pastel season. Now, we’re
pink to be soft and strong at Christi looking at the skirt with
an Dio
the very same time. Narciso r Reso
rt Ja longer sides and more
son W
Rodriguez working on the U legs shown, albeit in a Ste
lla M
date-worthy gowns, selected classier manner for the cC
artn
iela ey
the perfect hue. most part. Marg
Maison
October 16-31
July 1-15
T H E M E O F T H E Y E A R… T E C H N I Q U E O F T H E Y E A R... R U F F L E S !
UNDER THE SEA INFLUENCE!
S ummer wardrobe
makes all expect details
like the floral prints and
T he term ruffle is a
particular type of
fabric manipulation that
vibrant colours, but this
creates a similar look to
year’s S/S ’16 collections
that of gathering but with
brought us to the depth of
less bulk. A wavy effect
the ocean. Inspired by the
is created by cutting a
iridescent shades of the
curved strip of fabric
sea and the tropic colours
and applying the inner
of coral reefs, designers
or shorter edge to the
had their models grace
garment. The depth of the
the catwalk as mythical
curve as well as the width
sea creatures and urban
of the fabric determines
mermaids. Ocean-inspired
the depth of the ruffle.
clothing and accessories felt
Ruffles have always been
fresh in the form of flowing
the essentials for evening
silk gowns and coral-print
Bluemarine gowns; but now they are
swimsuits. Some wispy
entering other domains,
gowns were decked out in
such as shirts, skirts and
an array of exquisite marine
blazers as well. Some
embellishments, from
ruffles are known to spice
beaded sea horses to almost
up the outfit while others
cartoonishly sweet fishes.
are known to give it a
Pucci
statement look.
lin
October 1-15 ssou
ie A
Lanvin Ros
DETAIL OF THE YEAR…
BACK ADORNMENT! August 16-31
VALUE
ADDITION
R E W I N D 2 0 15
T H E B E S T O F ‘ V A L U E A D D I T I O N ’ T E C H N I Q U E S O F 2 0 15
Ohne Titel Veronique Branquinho Mary Katrantzou Zac Posen Naeem Khan
BCBG Max Azria
Mix-media
printing A nother sophisticated and
feminine way is use of lace;
nowadays laces of all kinds
special
effects… are available which make the
creation of perforated surface
October 1-15 even easier. Laces, owing to their
sheer glance, have moved away
from being used as hemming
and patches. They are now
Lace... being used as base material
for trench coats and leggings.
Be it knotted laces used as
sleeves and back yoke of a top
or bobbin lace used to create an
entire blouse panel, execution
becomes a very interesting part
when creativity gets hold of a
Gucci
perfect medium.
October 16-31
D esigners continue to pillage
the ’80s archive in order to
inform today’s trends. Loewe and
Maison Martin Margiela showed
tailored separates in a cellophane
type fabric. The material looked
exactly like the cellophane stick
tape, shiny, plastic and clear. To
achieve a similar effect, nylon
organza fabrics can be used,
which at a cheaper rate will give
Cellophane...
out a more mass accepted style.
While organza has traditionally
been used on fancy ball gowns;
lately we’ve seen it acting as a
see-through detail on modern
designs and minimalistic pieces.
Fabrics with an overlap between screen printing and digital Fast fashion stores like Vero Moda
printing effects
and Zara are seen to be staging
Maison Martin Margiela
home for dresses with a sheer
Windowpane/
Grid pattern…
April 1-15
Marbling Bold
madness… graphic
prints…
August 16-31 December 16-31
Tsumori
Crinkled Cracked Crimped Jonathan Saunders Chisato
Christian Dior
Printed tie
& dye…
January 16-31
SUSTAINABILIT Y R E W I N D 2 0 15
I N D U S T R Y ’ S I N I T I AT I V E S I N S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y O N T H E I N C R E A S E
M ore than a decade ago, when buyers started pushing for social compliance, the
I
face of factories in India changed, albeit initially very reluctantly. As results of nternational Trading Company (ITC), the
compliance initiatives started to reflect in better business and also happier working brainchild of the young, enthusiastic and
environment, exporters became more involved…, perhaps this is the reason that globally trained ZahirSAIT, is probably going
today many of the exporters are willingly going for measures to be environment- to be the first ever green sweater factory in
friendly, even as buyers still debate on what should be made mandatory… India. An apparel professional, with strong
technical knowledge, ZahirSAIT is investing
Ajit Lakra, MD of Rs. 20 crore (US $ 3.3 million) in this new
green facility which will have solar energy
Superfine Knitters, of 300 KW on its roof to take care of the
Ludhiana – “A year entire air-conditioning system, ZLD facility,
ago when we water harvesting, and vertical garden on the
installed our solar walls with complete LED lights, etc. What is
unit, we got 30 per even more interesting is his smart investment
system which will make all his proposed
cent subsidy and projects, including solar panel installations
100 per cent tax commercially viable.
rebate, so our actual
investment was
Pranab Mahajan, ZahirSAIT,
Rs. 20 lakh, but can I
Director Mahajan MD, ITC –
honestly say that the
Overseas, Panipat “Reducing cost
thought that really
– “One should is the biggest
pushed me to take
not think of every motivation
this initiative was my
move taken in for green
own conscious which
business from the factory, and
questioned me on
money or buyer’s adapting to
what am I doing for
pressure point of solar energy is
the environment, the
view. Big natural Deepak Dumra, a major cost-
society – nothing. But
disasters over the Partner, Eveline cutting initiative. We are looking at
now I feel proud as
last decade have International, investment for next 25 years and solar
using less electricity
struck various parts Ludhiana – “The will contribute 30 per cent of the total
of the state, I am
of our country and lush greenery has energy consumption of power, the
helping others to
they can happen created such an saving will be immense. Though on
get more. Subsidy
anywhere... growing atmosphere in our ground reality a green factory would
or rebate matters,
awareness should factory that people not be able to get me an extra penny
but not more than
motivate others also love to work here from the buyer, but it will help to get
your conscious.”
to willingly make the and has increased some extra orders as factory recall will
changeover.” efficiency also.” be on top of the mind.”
March 1-15
April 16-30
BIRLA CELLULOSE
ANANDI ENTERPRISES A leader in sustainability through
Moving ahead with collaboration with brands, knowledge-
organic, BCI and sharing and efficient R&D
recycle yarns
F rom an employee to an
employer, from a yarn agent
T he growing consciousness of consumers, brands,
factories and industry is leading to revolution of
sustainable change and everyone is doing their bit in
to a leading sustainable yarn this endeavour. Amongst them is Birla Cellulose, part of
manufacturer; it is a remarkable RS Balagurunathan, the Aditya Birla Group, a global leader in man-made
growth story of determination cellulosic fibre industry which is continuously focusing on
to do something different…
Founder & Director of
building sustainable leadership by creating value through
RS Balagurunathan, a textile Anandi Enterprises –
innovations in products and processes, excellence in quality,
technologist who is the Founder “Currently, we produce services and people development, and a better environment
& Director of Anandi Enterprises a yarn which is made for the future.
is doing commendable work in from 60 per cent
sustainable yarns be it organic, Manohar Samuel,
recycled cotton and
BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) or President (Marketing and
recycled yarns. Working as a 40 per cent recycled
Business Development),
supply chain partner of Levi’s and poly (pet bottles). This is
Birla Cellulose – “The
supplying yarns to C&A, M&S etc., a 100 per cent recycled
Anandi Enterprises, Tirupur is concept of Life Cycle
product and is used as
doing an annual business worth Assessment (LCA) has
natural yarn dyed for
US $ 6 million (Rs. 35 crore) while brought sustainability to
also helping thousands of farmers knitted garments that
a different collaborative
to earn a decent livelihood and one can see at stores
level, where life of
serving mother earth. of Levi’s. This unique
the entire product
yarn is eco-friendly and
is evaluated. Sustainability is the lifecycle
we are proud to be one
itself. Apart from brands individually doing
of the partners in a
something, they have also started collaborating
larger effort to save the
to do things better for the future generation.”
earth’s environment.”
September 1-15
E. Palanisamy, Group P. Vivek Anand, MD, Aisshvarya S. Shah, CEO & Chief
Chairman, Armstrong Armstrong Knitting Trainer, Work Senses, Chennai –
Knitting Mills – “We Mills – “When we “There is very urgent and critical
have spoiled the started organic, need to professionalise HR in
earth through there was not much this industry. It is not only about
chemicals... If we awareness in the recruiting the best HR person,
go on like this, then market, but slowly but also important is whether
where would the next we increased our our HR Department is moving
generation cultivate? focus and now we to the next level of people-
At Armstrong, we are are trying to be a management.”
installing solar panels truly sustainable
for spinning and company both Major General (Retd.) NK Dhir,
windmills for other in our products Director of Alphabet Teletec, Noida
energy needs.” and processes.” – “Stop telling this lie. Human
resources is not being treated like
an asset... Our companies are just
February 1-15
talking about it; they don’t take
PRATIBHA SYNTEX any action to make it true. Are
Moving from ‘responsible’ textiles to they able to touch the employee’s
‘responsible and responsive’ textiles heart...; there is only talk about
EQ (Emotional Quotient).”
Shreyaskar Chaudhary, MD, Pratibha Syntex – Madan Kukreja, MD, Super Fashion, Delhi – “Growth and
“Earlier I was more vocal about what importance of the HR depends on the size of the company,
companies need to do, but now I want to work since majority of the garment companies are having only
and create a role model to show that it can around 100 to 500 people to manage; the owner himself
work successfully, but has to be more than a takes care of his people, so where is the need of an HR at
lip-service”. such a top level.”
L
‘profit’ is something which is shrinking by the day with no one having a clear abour-intensive industries like textiles require
vision how to perk up the same for sustainable existence. Limiting overheads, not only skilled workforce but also vocational
cost control efforts and sharp costing are already being used as tools to improve training for knowledge building. Under the
margins, but are the export houses doing enough on these fronts, is there still Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS),
some scope for improvement, are some questions that need to be asked. Modelama Skills Pvt., Ltd. is partnering with the
Government for many Central and State Skill
development schemes, being presently run in
centres across India.
T here is disturbing news about violations, to say the least. Not only will this
affect business, but it only goes to reinforce what environmental experts
keep repeating... “Industry has total disregard for pollution norms.” At many
Development for coordinated action for skill
development, both in the public and private
sector. Currently, with 31 skill councils for each
locations CETPs do not exist, even if installed, they are not working; companies sector, Apparel-Made-ups-Furnishings Sector
are not following norms despite having resources..., all of which proves that the Skill Council (AMH SSC) is looking towards a
processing industry has not learnt anything from the crisis of Tirupur which was skilled workforce through this new initiative.
also related to water pollution. Stakeholders are vocal in blaming each other
and no one is ready to take the responsibility...
“Our Prime Minister
believes in Skill India
Rajendra Jeengar, General Secretary, The Sanganeer Kapada Rangai and has a very
and Chappai Association – “Shifting was never a solution from any motivating influence.
perspective, so we moved to the Supreme Court and in 2009 So involving the MPs
the shifting orders were cancelled. Immediately we asked land to promote the scheme
for CETP but we got land in 2013. Earlier we were being told is an intelligent option as
to only install a CETP, later we were asked for zero discharge they will feel proud and will also be
system. Now we have started bid for CETP which is supposed able to show to their constituency
to be operational in mid 2017, and will only be possible if we the progress even if 1,000 people
get the full support of the Government. More than 50 units get trained in 5 years in their
have their individual ETPs despite that they have not been given respective areas...” – Dr. A. Sakthivel,
permission to function as this area is not for commercial use.” Chairman, AMH SSC
TEX-FILE
ROUND-UP
R E W I N D 2 0 15
U P D AT E O N T E X T I L E P L AY E R S…
L
quality knitted fabrics, Mercury eading from the front, Srihari
Fabrics, has recently ventured into printed Balakrishnan, President, KG Fabriks
knitted fabrics with a fully automated Ltd., has set out a clear roadmap for
setup, claiming to be the only one to the future wherein there is increased
do such high-end fine and complicated focus on ‘sustainable growth’ not
prints in India. Although the company only through better quality and wider
is well-known for its quality knitted product range, but also ensuring that the
fabric that makes it a favourite to many July 16-31
company adheres to sustainable practices
exporters and international brands,
this new niche value-add is pushing the
Morarjee Textiles constructing encompassing both environment and
social issues. The company is aiming
company’s upward growth and setting it zero-waste textile to be amongst the most sustainable
apart from its competitors and attracting factory with biomimetic design textile companies in India and provide
attention from many international brands. ‘sustainable fashion’ in true sense.
H U B R E P O R T…
Trinity Tex Trade bats for a ICHALKARANJI: Moving from greige to processed fabric and export
strong and mature textile
industry
I ndia’s biggest cotton (greige) fabric producing hub Ichalkaranji in Kolhapur district, Maharashtra,
is witnessing a turnover of more than US $ 170 million per day. The city has grown significantly
during the last decade or so, and its growth momentum is set to continue in the coming years.
W hile garment manufacturers
always talk about how
difficult it is to work with imported
It is moving towards processed fabrics, there is an increased focus on export, and garmenting is
also growing slowly but steadily. While weaving is the core business here, companies are installing
sizing machines, wider width technology, and undertaking fabric processing and marketing
fabrics, mostly because of
activities as well. With the hub witnessing multi-directional growth, there is a lot of enthusiasm
procedural issues, fabric importers
amongst companies. However, the fear of higher power tariffs being levied looms large over the
rue that selling imported fabric in
industry, and is forcing many companies to consider shifting their base to nearby Karnataka, which
India to both domestic brands and
is offering more and better facilities. This is posing a big challenge for Ichalkaranji.
garment exporters is becoming
difficult by the day. With various
challenges such as pricing,
payments and an unorganized
structure hindering free flow of
fabrics, the country is losing out
on fabric categories that are better
produced elsewhere. Mumbai-
based Trinity Tex Trade, importers
of menswear fabrics have over the
last two years restricted their focus
on India, as it is a small market for
the company.
I S S U E S I N D I S C U S S I O N….
March 16-31
W ith industry-friendly Government sitting in the centre and voicing the ‘Make in India’ slogan, along with announcement of a new textile
policy with an ambitious target of achieving 20 per cent share of the global textile trade and helping the domestic industry attain a size
of US $ 650 billion by 2024-25 by focusing on investments, skill development and labour law reforms, players in the textile industry are more
positive than they have been for years. The industry is expected to attract investment of about US $ 120 billion by 2024-25 and create about 35
million additional jobs in the process. Exports are also expected to rise from the current US $ 39 billion to US $ 300 billion during this period.
With the textile industry growth, the textile machinery industry size is also expected to double to US $ 7,167.8 million (Rs. 45,000 crore) in the
next seven years from the present US $ 3,504.3 million (Rs. 22,000 crore) on the back of new projects and emphasis on setting up textile parks.
March 1-15
W ith the market picking up and offering fresh opportunities, both domestic players and direct exporters are feeling positive about growth. From top
fabric players like Vardhman and Arvind, and strong regional players like Bindal Exports and Madhusudan Group in Surat to smaller companies
across India producing 8 to 10 lakh metres of fabric per month, the mood is upbeat. Those engaged in the cotton business are no longer worried about
the glut but are taking it as a temporary phase, while those specializing in polyester are confident that demand will increase. This sentiment is driving many
textile manufacturers to expand capacities and invest in product development to attract more buyers. Apparel Online talked to some big and medium level
players in the fabric segment to get a pulse of the market dynamics...
Pratik Tulsian,
Director, PR Creation Saurabh Kukreja, Senior Manager
(Gomti Group of – Marketing, Arvind – “The US
Textiles), Surat – market is good and Europe is
“Demand for 100 per picking up; in fact, every product,
cent polyester fabric be it denim, shirting weight,
has almost doubled in piece-dyed, non-piece- dyed, etc.,
recent times, as buyers are all doing well.”
who were earlier asking
for small quantities are Subrata Sanyal, GM (Marketing),
now giving good quantity Maral overseas – “We were
Anupam Arya, ED, Bindal Silk Mills/Bindal Exports, orders. Companies which willing to reduce our costs which
Surat – “We are diversifying into viscose prints and will were producing 100 per became possible with more
start production within the next two months, as many of cent cotton or viscose production capacity. Now we are
our buyers are asking for rayon and viscose. We have only, have now expanded more competitive and since the
the capability to produce flexible width sizes ranging into polyester in order market is showing positive signs,
from 44 inches to 58 inches, flexible repeat sizes from to meet their buyers’ we are expecting good orders.”
68 cm to 2 metres, and repeat scarves sizes.” demand for the fabric.
A PPA R EL R E S O U R C E S
I S S U E S I N D I S C U S S I O N…. I N I T I A T I V E 2 0 15 …
March 1-15
Good response to Workshop
March 1-15
initiative by Apparel Resources
Recycled yarns... The game changer
A s the business of fashion is getting more sensitive towards sustainable clothing, the
demand for recycled yarns is escalating. Numerous conventional yarn manufacturers
have started making yarns out of waste products like PET bottles and ‘textile-to-textile' waste
such as used fabrics, garments and home furnishings. Many products such as clothing, soft
toys, bed linen, towels, gloves and rugs, to mention a few are being manufactured with such
yarns. Apparel Online talked to a few recycled yarn manufacturers to understand what kind of Over the last few years, there has been
recycled yarns they are producing and how this market is moving... an increased thrust on training and skill
development, but very little effort has
gone into looking at training needs of
senior and middle management. Further,
whatever workshops or training sessions
Shreyaskar Chaudhary, are organized, they are either technology
provider-driven or by consultants who
Managing Director,
are promoting their services. Both these
Pratibha Syntex – “The avenues, while providing knowledge,
market is steadily picking leave much to be desired. Backed by the
up with keen interest industry need and demand for workshops
shown largely by the that are more holistic and interactive,
Apparel Resources, India has initiated
international market. Now
a series of training sessions on varied
we are also seeing some industry-focused topics…; in 2015 AR
movement in the domestic conducted 8 workshops, two of which
demand asking for were held in Bangladesh.
recycled yarns translating
into demand.” October 16-31
FIRST EVER GOLF DAY
Gets huge response in
Dhaka… India the next venue
Makrand Kulkarni,
General Manager-Sales
& Marketing, Polygenta
Technologies Ltd. –
“Interestingly, customers
are now increasingly
Srihari Balakrishnan, President, demanding 100% recycled
KG Fabriks – “When 100 kg yarns made from 100% Apparel Resources in its commitment
post- consumer PET waste to provide an engaging platform for
of cotton comes to my factory, interaction and networking has made
100 kg is used, nothing is rather than just industrial a foray into sports with the ‘Golf Day’
treated as waste.” factory waste or a blend initiative. The first event held in Dhaka this
of recycled inputs.” year attracted many industry golfers and
some celebrity golfers too! Buoyant after
the positive and enthusiastic response, the
V. P. Goenka, CMD, Pashupati Polytex – “We have been regularly supplying initiative is all set to debut in India soon.
The brainchild of Mayank Mohindra,
our fibres to various leading textile mills who are using the same for
Director, Apparel Resources and a
producing different types of yarns (100% polyester yarn, cotton blended passionate golfer himself, ‘Golf Day’ has
yarn, polyester-acrylic blended yarn, polyester viscose blended yarn, etc.) been designed for the industry where
as well as cushioning products (carpets, sofa, dolls, toys, mattreses, furniture, stalwarts can enjoy a day of interaction and
toys, dolls, etc.).” networking while celebrating the corporate
game of golf, away from the shop floor and
meeting rooms, among the greens of the
golf course. Apparel Online A&E Golf Day
saw many popular buyers, exporters and
Ramesh Verma, President, HEMA – “More than 30 units produce 500 tonnes accessory/technology providers from the
Bangladesh RMG sector coming together
of recycled yarns a day out of cotton pants and T-shirts and then that yarn is for the first time ever in such a unique fun-
reused to make mats.” filled networking event.
I S S U E S I N D I S C U S S I O N….
Indian mills have potential for Industry expectations from new Government
larger share in Bangladeshi market high…Textiles Ministry proactive in approach...
results awaited
I
2021, Bangladesh cannot be underestimated as a potential market for s the textile industry at the cusp of change... This is the question
Indian textile mills though the country’s dependence on imported fabric is that everyone in the industry is asking. And what triggered the
currently decreasing. The very fact that the country is looking at doubling thought..., our very upfront Prime Minister of course!
its garment exports in just a span of six years, while the growth in the textile No one can deny that there is an air of vibrancy in the country
segment during the same period will be much slower, will create a gap for and no sector is left untouched. Since the new Government took
imported fabrics. The critical question is..., are Indian mills geared up to over in May, the people of this country are continuously amazed
grab the opportunity? at how changes are coming in, some very visible, while others
just starting points for change. For the textile industry, the very
fact that the new Government initiated the process of reviewing
the National Textile Policy, 2000 in an effort to facilitate the
Indian textile industry to gain and sustain a global position in the
manufacture and export of clothing, keeping in view the various
changes both on the domestic and international fronts, sends a
signal of positivity...
Anil Kumar, Mayank Jain, Kulbir Kundu, Prem Malik, Chairman, CITI – “CITI, along with
Country Head, Vice President, Country Manager other stake holders in the textile industry,
Arvind Ltd. – Malwa Industries of Vardhman have studied the draft report in detail and
Bangladesh – – “Bangladesh – Bangladesh made recommendations for improving it to
“Initially it was gains importance – “The qualities meet the needs of the industry. I am hopeful
difficult for us to for us since a running in this that the expert committee would look into
market our fabric lot of our US/ market till now these pertinent recommendations and finalize
as a large portion EU customers are mostly the report soon, after incorporating the
of denim, mostly nominate our regular qualities necessary changes.”
basic, was being fabrics, making in cotton which
sourced from it compulsory for are not seasonal, DL Sharma, Managing Director, Vardhman Yarns
China. Today hosts manufacturers and which & Threads Ltd. – “First of all, the draft textile
of international producing can be used policy shows the ambitious attitude towards the
brands are garments for throughout the growth of Indian textile industry and increase
sourcing denim these buyers to year irrespective the size of textile industry to its potential. The
products from source from us. of the changing necessary reforms required to achieve the
Bangladesh; Apart from this, trends. But slowly desired objectives are well identified.”
things have many garment the market is
changed factories use graduating to
drastically and our fabrics by more fashionable Sanjay Jain, MD, TT Ltd. –
while earlier it choice also. We items as the “The intent is there for sure.
was just basics are exporting margins are However, we still wait to
and volumes from close to 2 million becoming lesser see how this gets translated
Bangladesh, now yards every year in basics and into action. Further, one
buyers are asking to Bangladesh fetching a good area where the industry is
for fashion and and the way price in volumes.” disappointed is the speed
value addition in the country is of clearing incentives under
denim, which has growing, we see TUF and also following up
created demand a lot of potential with Commerce Ministry for
for our fabric.” in this market.” various export incentives.”
I M P O R TA N T P L AT F O R M S….
T he Textile Exchange Sustainability US. The event also witnessed experts from apparel manufacturing/export industry discussing
Conference held in India for the first on the topic ‘Make in India – Future Textile hub of the World.’ The outcome of this session was
time was hosted by Mumbai from October the recognition of ‘Value Addition’ as the key for growth, but which is perhaps ignored by the
5-8, 2015 and appropriately themed industry in its march to get regular business.
“Textiles – A Circular Life”. The event was
a power-packed one with 33 sponsors from
around the globe adding buzz to the two-
day informative sessions by top speakers
in sustainability, organic cotton round Prashant Agarwal, JMD, Wazir
table and other material meetings. With over Advisors – “Things are not moving
340 delegates and media from 32 countries,
in the manner in which it should
the sessions were well-attended with active
participation from the audience. move for India. Our overall
The main points of discussion at the various
textile export is much affected
forums were the future of cotton, water and by conditions in international
forest conservation, sustainability, supply business because we are not
chain integrity, design and materials. The more focused on apparel
interest from various stakeholders was exports. Garmenting is no more
palpable and why not...? The textile industry
which is a US $ 1.7 trillion business employs
production-driven, it’s a fashion
75 million people worldwide, is collectively and service-driven industry; so
the most damaging industry responsible for buyers and suppliers have to work
approximately 10 per cent of the planet’s very closely.”
carbon foot print.
INDUSTRY
WIRE
R E W I N D 2 0 15
H2F
INDUSTRY
R E W I N D 2 0 15
G E T T I N G I N N O VAT I V E F O R G R O W T H
Sourcing from India since the last 3 decades, Going deep and niche is the growth strategy There are very few companies in Jaipur
Ikea picks up a lot of home textile products at Shayan – The Bedding Company. Just which are doing an annual turnover
and has almost 48 suppliers in the country. a year old, the company has a lineage of of Rs. 80 crore and having vertically
As of now, the company buying from 53 belonging to a group which is a traditional integrated setup. And out of them very few
countries sees South Asia as one of the exporter of home furnishings under the will be expecting double turnover in next
major buying destinations. Undeterred by name ‘East India’, as also running a buying few years. But Suprint Textiles seems to be
slow market, in last fiscal Ikea registered agency Expo India that specializes in home an exceptional company that has its own
growth of 12 per cent, which is phenomenal furnishing. Headed by the young Chetan processing house with ZLD processing,
as it was in single digit from the last many Shah, the company is catering only to value- having an equal stronghold on export as
years. With 23 years of industry experience added bed linen that too in white colour, well as domestic market, and similarly
and working with Ikea since 2007, mostly for the European market. Working on competent in home and garment segment.
Kamal Gaba, shared his views. Huge infrastructure, focus on product
a unique collaborative supply chain model,
development, timely diversification and a
Mumbai-based Shayan is now looking to
“Till now whatever we are sourcing enter the US and Indian markets with small
set strategy are some of the main reasons
from India, is mostly cotton-based that propel Suprint Textiles for growth,
tweaking in its products to suit both markets.
preparing it to double its business in the
and going forward we are moving next two years.
towards some synthetic products as “My mentor in Holland helped us
well. This is one of the main areas in defining a niche and today many “Jaipur still does not have high
to explore further. The solution as buyers who were earlier not sourcing class designers and nobody wants
of now we see is to import fabric from to India for such products are to come here. Similar situation is
from overseas and have a stitching showing interest, as our competition is with planning department. We have
factory here, to ask our suppliers from Italy, which is very expensive. We changed our outlook and are now
to put up a different unit for are seeing increased competition from hiring people in merchandising/
storage solutions.” – Kamal Gaba, Turkey and East European countries on planning up to Rs. One lakh per
Business Development Manager – price, as both are able to give better month because we know without
Textile Products, Furniture Fabrics costing and also have the advantage proper talent we can’t achieve our
& Covers, Purchasing Operations of proximity.”- Chetan Shah, Director, target.” – Jasmeet Sodhi, Director,
Areas South Asia Shayan – The Bedding Company Suprint Textiles
Unlike most of the export companies Of the 12 segments in Technical Textiles, The very structure of Cornell Overseas,
around the country, the reception at Hometech is one of the largest, and the Noida is tailor-made for uniqueness,
Delhi-based Daks India does not issue segment is growing with the boom in real as it is owned by an American, but
a simple visitor card, instead they give a estate and higher spending on home independently run by a lady from
specific colour smiley; and as you enter interiors. The Technical Textiles market India. The strength of the company
the office it is amazing to see every staff is expected to reach US $ 160.38 billion lies not only in its unique ownership,
member wearing a smiley, but in different by 2018 at a CAGR of 3.71 per cent over but also in its corporate structuring
colours. Along with being a kind of 2014-2019 and according to the Indian and attitude towards business, which
identity, the smiley represents happiness, Research General, in the global technical is very different from other export
to take work as fun and most importantly, textile market, Hometech (components companies. With an annual business
a spirit to do something different and of furniture, household textiles and floor of US $ 6.7 million (Rs. 40 crore), 60
creative, which is the biggest strength coverings) contributes about 7 per cent per cent of which is in clothing and
of the company working with many of the overall share. Even medium-level remaining 40 per cent in the home
top premium brands and continuously exporters in this segment are growing. segment, Cornell Overseas, not only
growing, expanding and reinventing itself. Surat-based Aalidhra Techtex is one such has a creative office, but also develops
Daks India started its journey as a buying company that offers blackout curtains copyright prints. The company, which
agent, moved on to make a mark as a (ultraviolet) and cushions with water and has a professional work culture, strong
quality garment manufacturer/exporter dust repellent finishes for the export market, R&D department and undertakes small
and now has 1,200 machines with and for the domestic market it offers but many sustainable initiatives, is led in
growing presence in backpack and home parachute, lining, and heavy fabrics for India by Harpreet Sindhu, Director.
segment. Passion for creativity is obvious luggage. The 25-year-old company, which
when talking to Vanduta Khurana, is part of the US $ 66.6 million (Rs. 400 “We are proud to be a PD-driven
President and Anil Khurana, CEO of crore) Aalidhra Group, has a total turnover
the company...
company and don’t pick up any
of US $ 5 million (Rs. 30 crore), is expecting
100 per cent growth in the coming years.
prints from the market; every
“We work in a pro-active way print we produce is copyright
so that we can get the loyalty of “The textile industry has a huge worldwide... We have a monthly
the buyers for long-term mutual scope for growth; the next generation reporting system, including
beneficial relationship. Similarly, should explore its potential. The production, finance, etc. and
we don’t believe in saying ‘No changing worldwide conditions are I am free to take decisions.
problem… We are completely also in our favour. We are using The kind of mutual trust that
transparent, honest and open with 60-70 per cent polyester and the rest April and I share, never fails to
buyers. We have built in a lot of cotton, but is flexible enough to cater amaze me, I am very fortunate,
check points and once we have to all kinds of buyers’ demand and is because she trusts me completely
taken an order, the team is always not rigid with any kind of product.” and I can trust my people here.”
looking how to give better value.” – Suresh Gondalia, Director, – Harpreet Sindhu, Director,
– Anil Khurana, CEO, Daks India Aalidhra Techtex Cornell Overseas
August 16-31
MAHAJAN OVERSEAS
BUILDS FIRST-EVER H 2 F H U B S TA K E S T R I D E
GREEN FACTORY BY
A HOME FURNISHING
PLAYER
September 1-15
Home Furnishing hub Karur embracing change
Mahajan Overseas has the distinction with positivity of growth
of being the first ever Green factory
in Haryana, and is the first in India
which is truly dedicated to home Famed for its home textiles, Karur accounts for more than Rs. 6,000 crore-business annually, with
textile products only. Not yet counted 80 per cent exported across the globe. The 500 odd companies dotting the landscape of Karur
among the corporate giants of the in Tamil Nadu, a two hour drive from Tirupur — which played a significant role in the history and
home industry, Mahajan Overseas culture of the state and its people — has a niche in bed linens, kitchen linens, toilet linens, table
has always shown a very progressive linens and wall hangings.
attitude towards the business and
is today one of the best and most
respected players of the segment
from Panipat belt. Apparel Online
visited the new unit and was
impressed with the vision that this upfront
company, under the stewardship of
Pranab Mahajan, Director has for a
sustainable future.
Gunasekaran,
MD of Kuppu Exports
“We are following the designs/products
according to what the buyers wish...with
the kind of setup we have, it is difficult
to do very good PD in-house.”
White Paper on Panipat: Panipat firms up facilities and focuses on Jaipur Home Industry: Emerging
expanding capacities as international markets revive as a strong and independent
sector in exports
W ith business booming, mainly in the export of blankets and made-ups, Panipat-based
J
home furnishing companies are confident about their future growth. Be it a million dollar aipur has always been perceived as a
company, a medium-sized company, or a small player, there is demand for their existing manufacturing base for womenswear,
product categories, and they are optimistic of renewed growth with the revival of the US market. accessories, jewellery, handicraft and
Though poor infrastructure, lack of training initiatives, and high interest rates continue to create furniture, but of late, the centre has
bottlenecks, companies are gearing up fast, with an increasing focus on product development, caught the eye of buyers looking for home
expanding their production capabilities. The city has more than 4,000 firms engaged in export furnishings also. In fact, while doing this
of home furnishing items worth US $ 1 billion (Rs. 6,000 crore) annually. The newly formed story, more than 18 home furnishing
Panipat Home Furnishing Cluster (PHFC) has been allotted one acre land, where they will install a exporters shared that they were too busy
multi-needle tufting machine, a ChromoJet printing machine and a 4-metre wide packing unit. to talk as they were sitting with buyers.
Thanks to the reasonably good flow of
orders which is keeping the Jaipur-based
home furnishing exporters busy, the
Ramesh Verma, home furnishing (soft goods) industry has
MD, Diamond Exports emerged out of the shadows of the garment
& Founder PHFC manufacturing industry, creating an identity
of its own.
“We have had
several meetings
with NSDC (National Atul Poddar, Partner,
Skill Development Exotic Pods Creations
Corporation) and are “There are many companies
hopeful that a training that are into home as well as
centre will start in the into garment manufacturing
next 3 months, where or any other segment, but
Asmita Dwivedi Paliwal, every kind of training that in no way takes away
Director, Abhiasmi
International (Paliwal
will be provided...” the strength of the home
Group) furnishing industry. In fact,
“As the market we increasingly find that our
environment is work is a source of inspiration
becoming more and for garment people...”
more challenging,
buyers too are looking Navneet Jhalani, Proprietor,
Marudhara Arts Inc.
for vendors with whom
they can consolidate “Earlier my buyers were
their businesses...” asking mostly special prints
of Jaipur, but now they are
also sourcing plain dye from
us which they could have
sourced from any other
centre...”
RESOURCE
CENTRE
R E W I N D 2 0 15
E X PA N D I N G R E S O U R C E B A S E S U P P O R T S I N D U S T R Y
1 2 3
January 16-31 India, it has set up a testing facility with a fully equipped lab in
SGS hosts Interactive Technical Seminar and Tirupur, besides a lab in Bangalore, and has recently opened
1
Networking Dinner another testing facility in Delhi-NCR. MTS team, comprising of
SGS, the Switzerland-based inspection, verification, testing and Hogunn Park, COO, MTS and Dr. M.V.S Rao, Vice President –
certification company in an endeavour to drive awareness about South Asia, Modern Testing Services (India) Pvt. Ltd., share
sustainability issues in the textile chain, hosted an Interactive information during the facility’s inauguration in Noida...
Technical Session and Networking Dinner on ‘Product Safety &
February 16-28
Sustainability Issues in Global Textiles Markets’, in Noida (Delhi-
Talreja Textile Industries puts strategies in
NCR). Dr. Karen Kyllo, Deputy VP Global Softlines, SGS USA, 3
place; Focuses on nomination through a
an internationally renowned expert on Product Safety, Performance
and Sustainability in Textiles and a member of the AAFA Board of
compliant setup
Directors, AATCC Board of Directors, and the Consumer Advisor Though interlining may be a niche product, but it takes technical
on the US Cotton Board, shared her thoughts on some critical expertise and sound knowledge to deliver, and Talreja Textile
areas of concern to the industry as also future plans of SGS Industries Pvt. Ltd., an ISO 9001:2008 certified company, has
moving into 2015. been successfully doing it for the past six decades. A leading
manufacturer of Woven Fusible Interlinings,the company markets
February 1-15
its products through an established brand name ‘Talco', which is
Modern Testing Services (MTS) makes its mark yet synonymous with high-quality and reliability. Catering to export
2
again through quality service and advanced IT solutions markets, domestic markets and requirements of the defence
Founded by Dr. B.J. Park in 1985-86, Modern Testing Services sector, the Mumbai-based company is revamping its existing
(MTS) has soon spread its operations across 28 countries. It was facility, incorporating latest technology in interlinings and focusing
taken over by Bureau Veritas (BV) in 2000, but after six years and a on nominations from national and international brands, disclosed
non-competitive clause with BV, the company has re-started its Varun Fotedar, Vice President-Operations and Manish Rupani,
operations, which are based on its previous business model. In Director, Talreja Textile Industries Pvt. Ltd. to Team AO.
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November 16-30 customers looking to produce designed products for the international
Schiffli giant Saurer Embroidery strategizes for next market, as also the Asian domestic market, the upcoming show will
25
phase of growth; Emphasis on better service, new bring together various stakeholders in the value chain.
markets and automation
December 16-31
Since its inception in 1995, Saurer Embroidery Systems (India) Pvt.
Danufil® Proshade® revolutionizes the textile industry
Ltd. has over the years emerged as a centre of excellence in schiffli 27
through partnership with Linz, DyStar and Kelheim
embroidery. Through an efficient management system with technical
expertise, backed by a huge infrastructure, Ankush Kapoor, As the leading spinning and weaving company in Europe, Linz Textil
Ashish Khanna and Aditya Khanna, the dynamic trio behind the GmbH has introduced an innovative yet challenging concept to sell
success of the company, share what makes them grow. in the Indian market, called the Danufil® Proshade®. Currently,
being represented in India by Stuti Exports Pvt. Ltd. which is
December 1-15 based in Mumbai, the company has launched an innovative new
Shima Seiki geared for first ever private show; viscose mélange yarn, which no one has yet ventured in India with.
26
Targets Asia The Linz Textil team of Matthias Lucan (Head of Research &
“Not all customers from Asia are able to make it to ITMA,” says Development) and Harald Schneebaur (Area Sales Manager),
Ikuto Umeda, Executive Director, Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd., as one Pradeep Roongta (MD, Stuti Exports Pvt. Ltd.) and Michael
of the major reasons that the company is organizing a private show Rodrigues (GM – Fabric, Shakthi Knitting Ltd.) shared with
in Hong Kong in January. However, the show is not just for those AO details about this new revolutionary product and its growing
who missed out on the ITMA, it is much more. Focused for the Asian acceptance in the Indian market…
January 16-31 as probable country manager. Currently, the products include sportswear like tee-shirts,
IKEA to double sourcing from India brand is working with almost a dozen buying polos, sweats, shorts and long sleeve knits. A
World’s largest furniture retailer, IKEA, is planning houses as well as many factories in India. source claimed that as of now some orders are
to double its sourcing of home furnishing products in the process with Bangalore/South India-based
July 16-31 companies while one Noida-based sportswear
from India by 2020 from Euro 315 million to Euro
Fifth Avenue expecting 100% growth manufacturer is also in touch with the company.
630 million. The company has been sourcing
in coming years; shifting its main
products from India for the past 27 years, working October 16-31
with 48 suppliers. “We are not only looking at
operations to Bangalore office
Nine Square: A new buying
existing home furnishing manufacturers but also Doing approximately US $ 88 million turnover per
house in Tirupur
at new companies to diversify into the product year, Chennai-based buying house Fifth Avenue
is expecting to double its turnover in the next 1½ Nine Square, a buying house in Tirupur, has just
category, who are looking at growing with us,”
years. It is working very systematically for this recently completed first year of its establishment.
avers Sandeep Sanan, Head of Sourcing,
Somu, one of the Partners in the company
IKEA South Asia. stupendous growth as it has enhanced focus last
shared with Apparel Online that the first year
year on the US market and is now expecting about
March 16-31 of business was good and to the expectations
30 per cent of total business from the same.
Superdry opening its direct sourcing of the partners. “As we are now entering into
office in Gurgaon July 16-31 the second season, our expectation is to grow
Babolat exploring sourcing options by about 30 to 40 per cent. Our team is also
Superdry, a UK-based brand owned by working to add new buyers as we have very
SuperGroup plc, which is currently sourcing from India
vast experience in various segments of apparel
29 per cent of its products from India and Sri Babolat, the famous French company best industry. Whereas our own manufacturing is
Lanka, is in the process to start its own office known for its strings and tennis rackets, is concerned, despite serving our buyers well, we
in Gurgaon. Hiring in QA, QC, merchandising exploring India for apparel sourcing. According want more control on quality and want to secure
and PD departments for the new office is in full to industry sources it started its own office in total satisfaction of buyers. It is more easy with
swing; however no name as yet has emerged Bangalore almost 1½ years ago and its main own manufacturing.”