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Motorcycle Swing-Arm Design and Modification
Motorcycle Swing-Arm Design and Modification
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Canted Coil Springs
AHRMA rules
AHRMA’s popular “Formula” and “Sportsman” vintage classes permit a limited swing-arm modification, where a brace of specific size is attached to
the existing structure and is grandfathered in as a “period modification” based on its historical use by Big D Cycle in 1971 (2007 Rules: 9.7.3). The
mechanical requirements are shown, right; click to see a larger view.
Clearly, the limits given are important: the diameter of the brace, and the vertical depth of the swing-arm as modified. Increasing either (or both) of these dimensions will r
an significantly improved (but illegal) component. A 3/4” brace and 3” depth will still fit many chassis, which is why it’s not permitted.
Please note that there are no prohibitions of the forward point of attachment of the brace to the swing-arm, the separation angle of the brace relative to the arm, the numb
size of vertical struts connecting them, or the width across the brace. From this I deduce that these have, relatively speaking, little or no effect on handling or structural integr
may be designed and applied to best suit the chassis.
I propose a brace that conforms to the AHRMA rule, and provides maximum efficiency with minimal construction time, minimal welding, and
low number of fabricated components. The depth, measured between the center of the pivot tube and the
center of the brace is 2” and the brace diameter is 5/8” as required, but the struts connecting the brace at the pivot tube are enlarged to 5/8”, and a 5/8” vertical strut are als
at mid-span to shorten the main arm’s unsupported length; click to see a larger view.
Minor modifications
An extra cross-piece connecting the left and right main arms has a positive effect without making the “footprint” of the arm more intrusive into the chassis. The cross short
“leverage” of the axle against the pivot bolt tube, but only to a limited extent.
If adding a cross-piece parallel to the pivot it should be at least as tall as the arms, as close to the tire as safe (allow for expansion 1/2”?), and in shape a box as deep (fro
back) as possible, 1/16 to 3/32” wall (or the same as the arm) is enough for results. Inlet the ends to fit the arms closely before welding, which must be done in a fixture - es
on a Commando. For best clearance the rear face of the box facing the tire should have a concave curve matching the tire radius. Shown, below right, is a 1971-* Triumph
and BSA twin “oil-in-frame” swing-arm in standard form, and with the cross piece extended and re-curved. Click either picture for a larger view.
The Triumph/BSA oil-in-frame design is fairly good in standard form, but there are areas where improvements can be made.
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The swing-arm has two separate loops rather than a continuous tube to accept the pivot shaft. The shaft is supported between these loops by a center loop
attached to the frame’s backbone (oil reservoir), and by one loop on each left & right angled frame rail. Under hard cornering, especially with sticky tires, the
center loop cracks and eventually tears away.
Line-boring the existing loops (viz. reaming through all five points simultaneously to keep alignment) will add diameter only to the extent that you reduce wall thickness. I d
know if the current wall thickness is overkill, just fine or not sufficient so I would hesitate to reduce it, especially since the increase must be small - certainly 1/8” would be to
The other method is to make new bushings with the same OD (= loop ID) but thinner wall. A bushing will be thinner than a needle for the same load capacity, and the dif
is the shaft OD increase. I’m not sure how thin is safe - again, you won’t get much.
The pivot shaft needle bearing is one of those “looks like a good idea” that doesn’t work. The original bushing is generally either self-lubricating (“Oilite”) or has a gease f
nipple, but has far higher load capacity than a needle, and doesn’t require a specific minimum surface hardness (or finish) to run on.
There is also no gain to be had in any event - the swing-arm pivot does not rotate in the bearings but only oscillates a few degrees, so the difference in friction is too small
matter.
A needle bearing is designed to run only on a hardened and smooth surface, and will brinnel even this eventually. Since the contact sweep area is very small (30°?, or 1/1
circle), the pivot will develop small depressions only where the needles pass over them. Each needle only traverses a small fraction of an inch of pivot surface (rather than av
the wear out over the entire circumference, as would be the case if there were rotation).
The needle bearings have no thrust (end play) control, so the lateral load must still be controlled by bushings. Harley-Davidson swing-arms (since 1952) use Timken bear
which control both radial and end thrust but are larger, heavier and more expensive.
I’d like to see a big change in OD like 25% or more. Obviously, use some existing shaft with the right diameter and too long, then buy the bushings, and make the loops t
the bushing OD so you only need fabricate the loops and mod the pivot.
E.g., a 1.00” OD × 12” long solid shaft stiffness is about .049 and weighs 2.67 lbs. A 1.50” OD hollow (3/32” wall) shaft stiffness is about .103 (more than twice as stiff
only weighs 1.41 lbs., or 47% less (although the loops etc. will add the weight back). The loop attachment to the swing-arm and frame will also be stronger with more area
weld points.
If, as I suspect, the pivot shaft may be bending with swing-arm roll* to tear off the center loop a bigger shaft will help, but the frame ears where the loops attach still shou
improved.
My first guess is that the existing ears are bending in and out (skewing) with the pivot shaft. If so, bracing/gusseting them to their frame rail won’t do
much; they need to be anchored at an angle. If there’s room run a tube or triangular gusset from the inside of the ear just outboard of the loop down at
an angle to the bottom of the frame where the backbone seats. This is why you see a horizontal strut running
from each angled tube above the ear inward to the backbone, but there isn’t always room and it’s visible, as shown here. Here’s an OIF with this mod, click the image for a
view.
The usual rule is: mentally project your new frame member. Is it parallel to any part of the structure it’s attached to? If so, it will form a trapezoid under stress (the corner
will skew away in opposite direction and become more acute & obtuse). Instead, re-position at least one end to make a triangle, which is less subject to shape deformation
load.
* I use aircraft/sports car terminology to identify movement:
”Pitch” is up and down movement on the length-wise axis of the wheelbase, like normal suspension motion. Frames generally resist this fairly well.
”Roll” is rotation around the same axis, like when you bank for a turn; also caused by shaft-drives, counter steering, etc. If the frame and swing-arm do not roll at the same r
bending or breakage occurs at the weakest point. Many good frames are very weak in this plane, especially at the steering head and swing-arm pivot.
”Yaw” is rotation around a vertical axis, like major oversteer or intentional slide in flat track. Sideways bending is typically not a problem.
If your racing rules permit (or you don’t care) more stiffness can be added by increasing the height dimension on the intersection of the arms, pivot tube and braces. A sim
triangular piece of 1/8” steel plate held vertically bridging the join across the arm and pivot tube from below on each side helps a lot, but be sure it doesn’t contact anything
travel. Since it’s close to the pivot it has almost no unsprung weight. The swing-arm’s weight is sprung vs. unsprung in direct proportion to the placement of each section in t
between the pivot bolt and the axle.
The usual method (a full length brace) wastes weight since the torque near the axle is almost nothing.
You can replace the arms completely with oval or elliptical tubing with about the same thickness but twice as tall.
Easiest fixture: two steel bars, one is the pivot OD, one is the axle OD, but 2 feet long to give leverage and clamped to a big fixture, parallel with a bubble level, etc. This
the time to consider whether you want a different length.
Brace design and construction
The individual design elements of a braced swing-arm must, of course, be part of a comprehensive design, but they may evaluated separately to make the process less co
1. The first consideration, which must be resolved before anything else can be done is: “is this the length I want to use”. If so, the shock mount need not be disturbed, unle
wish to re-locate or strengthen it. More about added length here: .
2. The next step is to map out the limits of suspension travel to determine where the brace will interfere with the center stand, chain run, chain guard, exhaust system, etc.
best done with the motorcycle supported so that the rear wheel is suspended and the shocks are topped out. Make a diagram, and measure from the closest part of the swi
to anything close, including the frame ahead of the wheel below the swing-arm. The maximum brace size must be at least 1/8” smaller (I prefer 1/4”) at all points to allow for
rubber compression, tire squat, deflection etc.
3. How thin should the brace be both in diameter and wall thickness, how far back it should join the main arm (farther back looks like a good idea but useless unless you
the axle slots - which is quite a different problem), where the struts should be, material to use, and (very big) how far down the brace should be at maximum. My opinion is
brace should be as “deep” as possible, even if it means making a window for chain clearance between the arm and strut because the arm/strut/brace triangle is the single big
factor.
4. Where should the brace be mounted? It may be located either above (as in modern motorcycles) or below the swing-arm.
The top mount offers the advantage of incorporating the existing monoshock support and rising rate linkage, which don’t exist in vintage British machines. They could be
incorporated, but this would not be legal for any vintage racing and require completely re-engineering the chassis - not just adding a few bits.
The bottom mount is in tension and is therefore slightly stronger, intrudes less into the existing components, and has little effect on ground clearance if properly designed. E
though the amount of tubing, welded area, quality of construction etc. may be otherwise identical, a bottom mount is stronger. Think of it this way: a top mount is a column
supporting a load; to resist bending it must be very stiff. A bottom mount, in tension, requires much less stiffness in the area between the rear axle and the center strut, only s
strength to prevent separation, and almost anything (1/8” thick, 1” wide strap like a brake torque link) will do that. The brace area between the center strut and the pivot tub
of course, still be very stiff. You have a choice: save a few ounces by using smaller tubing for the brace, or get some extra rigidity as a bonus with the same dimensions.
Factors in tube choice for stiffness, ranked in order of descending effect (assuming that length is fixed):
1. tube diameter
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2. material
3. wall thickness
Here’s a round-section swing-arm (the actual component is from a Yamaha XS650, but the construction is very similar to common British pieces)
greatly improved by the addition of a 3-dimensional brace, click for a larger view. This is simple to design and inexpensive to make, although alignment
and attachment must be precise.
This will require clearance checks for the center stand, footpeg mounts, exhaust system hangers, etc. Be sure to measure the entire travel of the swing-arm.
This one was done by joe-wiseguy of “wiseguys-choppers-and-customs”, click here to visit their eBay store: . Notice that the brace is below the swing-arm so tha
in tension. The nose is angled forward to give clearance to the frame when the shocks are extended. The brace does not extend all the way to the axle - it’s not needed sinc
twisting force there is much less, and the weight at the axle is almost 100% unsprung and should not be increased. This is not a legal mod for AHRMA, sorry - that’s how w
works.
Here are some additional views of the braced swing-arm to show the detail. Click on any to see a larger view.
Swing-arm length
The swing-arm’s length, measured between the pivot shaft and the rear axle, is an important function of handling not only as an absolute but as a
proportion of the wheelbase. Simply extending the swing-arm adds roughly the same amount to the wheelbase since the “at rest” or normally loaded
position is approximately horizontal. Shown right is the same Yamaha swing-arm extended slightly. Click to see a larger view.
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