SOUTHEAST ASIA DECEMBER 2013

25
WEEKEND

Beach
GETAWAYS
IN ASIA

Bliss
BACK TO NATURE TOP
ON GAYA ISLAND TRAVEL
GADGETS
BEST OF
2013
New openings
you need to
check out
SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43
THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000
MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000
MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240
BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000
 Volume 07 / Issue 12
Features
94 25 Weekend Getaways
Asia’s cities are some of the
most madcap and electric
in the world, making them
both energizing and, we
116 The Jungle Book Pulau
admit it, exhausting.
Luckily, you needn’t travel
far to find fresh air, sea
breezes and great
gathering spots for groups
of your friends.
112 The Advice of
Strangers Sifting good
intel from poor counsel in
today’s tech savvy travel
A U S A DAV U T S A R U M
Gaya Island
Resort,
page 116.
world is increasingly
difficult. Is TripAdvisor
helping? by r ich a r d
mcleish . illustr at ed by
wasin ee ch a n ta kor n
Gaya is a world of its own.
Once you wrap yourself in
this ecosystem of whale
sharks, pygmy elephants,
and coconut-avocado scalp
scrubs, you’ll want to set
up a treehouse and move
in. by di a na h u bbell .
pho t ogr a phed by
ausa dav u t sa rum .
Contents
December 2013
124 Isle of Inspiration but also its dark and
m er r it t gu r le y checks in abiding Melanesian
with Maldivian queen history. Island-hop the
Soneva Fushi and other archipelago of coconut
dreamers, innovators and crabs, klevers and the cult
tree-huggers that took of Prince Philip. st ory
home accolades at this a n d pho t os by i a n lloy d
year’s Wild Asia n e u bau er . m a p a n d gu ide
Responsible Tourism page 139
Awards.
132 Pacific Spirits The
romance of Vanuatu isn’t
found merely in its upscale
resorts and deep-blue seas,
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 9
Contents dest i nat ions 12 …
Departments
14
e d i t o r ’s n o t e
contr ibu tors 16 … i n b o x 18

Radar Plus Cronuts take Asia; Point of View

the tableside-cooking On the Cover
23 All About Ann Siang 88 Escaping Christmas
This neighborhood on the trend; Cristal uncorks its Abandoning the At Gaya Island Resort in Sabah.
edge of Singapore’s new Hong Kong lounge; trimmings and trappings Photographer: Ausadavut Sarum.
Chinatown has it all. by and more of holidays past, gu y Assistant: Kaona Nilavajara.
m el a n ie lee 50 The Best of 2013 The tr ebay heads to London to Stylist: Alisa Ounsuwan. Model:
region’s hottest openings. celebrate the season Atiporn Introatporn/Super Red.
32 Taking the Plunge
Hair and make up: Santipong
In one of the world’s Strategies Decoder
Kwanseng.
richest countries, di a na 140 Cape Town Edgy
73 Travel Tech Awards
h u bbell finds treasure at
T+L’s list of the year’s most boutiques. Independent
the bottom of the ocean. galleries. Forward-
innovative releases. All
38 Why Go: Colombo road tested by t om thinking restaurants. w ill
st eph a n ie zu bir i checks sa mil ja n . hide surveys the city.

out Sri Lanka’s seaside pho t ogr a phed by dook

Trip Doctor
capital.
84 Deals A luxury trip to
42 Shared Visions Four Langkawi; festive
architects find inspiration holidays around Hong
in Asia’s vibrant cities. Kong; an adventure trip in
by k a r en fong
the Himalaya; and more.
Last Look
146 Vietnam Motorcycling
the length of the country,
morga n om m er visits Ho
Chi Minh’s hometown.

Ding Dong
restaurant in
Singapore, page 23.

DARREN SOH

10 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Destinations

December 2013

94 H A N GZHOU

94 BACA LOD

L A N G K AWI 94
32 BRU N E I

VA N UAT U 132

CA PE TOW N 140

DESTINATION PAGE WHEN TO GO WHAT US$5 BUYS WHO TO FOLLOW

Bacalod 94 January to May tends to bring pleasant A donation to help victims of @TourismPinas
weather. Typhoon Haiyan.
Brunei 32 January through March are the driest months, An assortment of snacks from @brunei_tourism
though the climate is fairly mild year-round. Gadong Night Market, including
kuih melaya, a sweet, Malay-style
pancake stuffed with raisins,
peanuts and condensed milk.
Cape Town 140 Summer, between December and March, A glass of wine from one of the @CapeTownTourism
brings warm, sunny weather. local vineyards.
Hangzhou 94 March, April and May bring warm, mild An order of jiao hua ji, or“beggar’s @Hangzhou_CHINA
weather and cherry blossoms, but also hordes chicken” at a streetside
of tourists. restaurant, a local specialty in
which a whole chicken is baked in
lotus leaves and clay.
Langkawi 94 December through February is dry season and A plate of the nasi kandar, or rice @TourismLangkawi
the ideal time to visit. with assorted curries and fried
meats.
Vanuatu 132 Eccentric paradise best experienced between Coconut crab at a casual @VanuatuTourism1
April and September, when the weather is restaurant.
cool and the chance of cyclones low.

Long Weekend Beach Active Food+Drink Shopping Arts+Culture

12 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Editor’s Note where to find me
chrisk@mediatransasia.com
@CKucway on Twitter

Looking Ahead

I
f, like me, you’re in a minor state of shock that the final month
of the year is upon us, maybe you need a break. We got
thinking about some of our favorite places in the region to
take that breather and, as you might expect, came up big. Our
compilation of “25 Weekend Getaways” (page 94) offers just a
few of the best spots to get some fresh air and rejuvenate.
But before you skip town, remember to take a look at all the
At Le Meridien
top-quality offerings that entered the scene this year. Our Bali, a new resort
selection of new hotels, resorts, spas, restaurants and bars, worth a look.
(“The Best of 2013,” page 50), perfectly demonstrates why Asia’s
popularity continues to barrel ahead as a travel destination. When
in Hong Kong, I can definitely recommend Caprice Bar, with its
wealth of cheeses, at the Four Seasons. Ditto for the oyster-rich
Black Swan in Singapore, though be warned that it is so new, many
taxi drivers insist it doesn’t exist. I also managed to visit the
Regent in Bali before it opened and got to see the beautiful resort
taking shape around me over a pool-side martini. It’s on my to-do
list to get back there, if only to see the clever do not disturb signs.
This, by the way, is a slogan that several resorts we feature this
month took to heart with regards to their impact on the Earth. Our
look at the Wild Asia Responsible Tourism Awards (“Isle of our next stops
Inspiration,” page 124) highlights Soneva Resorts, whose China
properties in the Maldives and Thailand garnered
commendations for galvanizing guests—and other hotel
companies—to get involved on the environmental front when on
vacation. That’s practically an imperative on Gaya Island in East
Hoi An
Malaysia, where we did a green-inspired fashion shoot (“The
Jungle Book,” page 116) in a locale where nature rules the day, both
underwater and in the surrounding forests. It’s one of those places Burma
where you know you are merely a visitor.
Whether you want to ensconce yourself in millennium-old
trees or a decadent room full of cheese, we at T+L wish you all the Palawan
best in the new year, and promise to keep bringing you a bounty of
travel choices in 2014.— chr istopher k uc way

The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most
reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take
press trips or accept free travel of any kind.

14 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

Richard
Mcleish
Writer
“25 Weekend Getaways” and
“The Advice of Strangers,”
(pages 94 and 112).
how much faith
should we put in sites
like tripadvisor? I trust
TripAdvisor more than I
trust the American NSA,
but always take their
reviews with a generous
grain of salt. There are all
kinds of people out there,
and now they have a voice.
best bit of travel
advice you ever got
The key to enjoying a place
the most is to know not
when to arrive but when to
leave. Not sure if
TripAdvisor can help with
that though. favorite
bangkok getaway that
you didn’t share in the
story My secret getaway is
a beach resort a few hours’
drive south, just below Hua
Hin. Any more information
would be telling too much,
since everyone needs to find
their own special slice of
weekend paradise, just for
themselves.
‘It’s a dying custom, but I love sending
and receiving Christmas cards—the
kind with the stamp on the envelope.
Say no to Paperless Post.’
Contributors
Fiona
MacGregor
Writer
“Best of 2013, Burma,”
(page 50).
you’ve only been in
burma five months.
has it changed that
much? I’d been warned to
take all the cash I’d need
into Burma with me. In my
first few weeks, two ATMs
started taking foreign cards;
now almost everyone does.
Also, walking in Rangoon is
treacherous: holey streets
and eye-level hazards. The
sidewalks are improving
now, slightly decreasing the
likelihood you’ll fall into a
drain while avoiding debris
plummeting towards your
head. what’s our friday
night itinerary? After
sunset at Shwedagon
Pagoda, make your way to
Strand Road for happy hour
in the impressive surrounds
of The Strand Hotel, then
colonial-style dining at The
Governor’s Residence,
where you can end the
evening in the garden with
drinks under the stars.
Guy
Trebay
Writer
“Escaping Christmas,”
(page 88).
christmas ritual you
can’t help but enjoy
It’s a dying custom, I know,
but I love sending and
receiving Christmas
cards—the kind with the
stamp on the envelope. Say
no to Paperless Post.
holiday tradition you
could do without I
wouldn’t mind losing
eggnog. a favorite
place to shop in
london It’s hardly under
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F R I C H A R D M C L E I S H ; C O U R T E S Y O F F I O N A M A C G R E G O R ; G R E G K E S S L E R
the radar, but whenever I’m
in London, I buy a piece of
luggage at the Globe-Trotter
in the Burlington Arcade.
destination you’re
escaping to next
Transylvania is so beautiful
and, for the moment,
unspoiled. I’m returning
there soon on a hiking trip.
—GUY TREBAY
 Inbox

Old Frontiers
Well, now I’ve seen it all! T+L trying to convince me to visit
Kazakhstan [“Steppes in Time,” October]? And doing a
bang-up job of it? Borat is wiped from my brain, and I’m
now champing at the bit to horseback ride across the plains.
Marie Mateo malacca

Digital Overload Italy Revealed

I want to express my appreciation
for your October “Comment Card.”
Watching museumgoers ignore
everything around them, faces
silently glued to a small, handheld
screen, is a clear signal that society
has taken a digital step backward. Is
it so much to ask for less velocity
and a renewal of face-to-face
communication? Keep it up,
Travel + Leisure.
John “Doc” Fabiano
jacksonville , fla .
I was shocked to see my gorgeous
little European hideaway, Camogli,
“exposed” [“The Beach, Italian
Style”] in your July issue! I first
discovered the fishing village a
decade ago while attending a local
wedding, and I took my seventh trip
there last summer, enjoying the
flavor of Italy without much English
spoken. I hope most T+L readers
will travel to La Spezia, its
surroundings, and other places
south of the Cinque Terre—and also
hope they find Camogli too “off the
beaten track.”
Patricia Hughes
los angeles , calif.

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BU N G A RAYA IS L AN D R ESORT & SPA – Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

*varies by hotel
Radar
On Our

News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.

on the map

ALL ABOUT
ANN SIANG
This hilly row of charming shop
houses on the edge of
Singapore’s Chinatown oozes
class with a side of swagger.
Melanie Lee ambles its sweet
streets in search of the coolest
places to eat sea urchin pudding,
drink Asian-inpired cocktails and
indulge in the ultimate spa
experiences. Turn the page for
a few of our favorite new
diversions in this constantly
evolving neighborhood. ➔

Photographed by Darren Soh T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 23

Radar
1 The perfect spot for
afternoon tea is Kki Sweets
and The Little Dröm Store
(7 Ann Siang Hill; kki-sweets.
com; tea for two from S$24;
thelittledromstore.com), a
Japanese bakery and hipster
trinket shop respectively
that share the same sunlit
space. Try Kki’s Mont Blanc,
a swirly chestnut-almond
tart, then pick up local
souvenirs at The Little Dröm
Store, which sells a colorful
range of tchotchkes made by
Singaporean artists and
designers.
2 A new kid on the block is
Ding Dong (23 Ann Siang
Rd.; 65/6557-0189; dingdong.
com.sg; dinner for two from
S$100), which opened in
June. Its Southeast Asian
small plates dining concept
is the brainchild of Chef Ryan
Clift (of the much-lauded
Tippling Club) and the Spa
Esprit Group, and fuses
creative cuisine with an
unmistakable chill-out vibe.
Don’t miss the scallop
ceviche with fresh coconut
or the cross-cultural
Vietnamese Scotch eggs.
3 The world’s oldest
barbershop, Truefitt & Hill
(9 Ann Siang Rd., 65/6223-
5263; truefittandhill.com.sg;
Ding Dong’s
Vietnamese
Scotch eggs.
24 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3
S$60 for a shave and S$75 for
a haircut) opened its first
branch in Singapore in
March and has become
popular with businessmen
bromancing their
gentlemanly associates in a
manly black-and-white
grooming establishment
that also serves (masculine,
we promise) cocktails.
4 Zui Hong Lou (8 Ann
Siang Hill; 65/6423-9562;
zuihonglouxinjiapopteltd.
com.sg; drinks and dim sum
for two around S$60) is a
concept dim sum bar that
exudes a nostalgic vibe with
old-school backlit posters
hung on its ceilings—a fitting
tribute to an area that was
once a gathering spot for
Chinese coolies. Try the
Flower Song, a vodka-based
cocktail with chrysanthemum
and lychee, served in a
Chinese teapot.
5 The Club Hotel (28 Ann
Siang Rd.; 65/6808-2188;
theclub.com.sg; from S$235
double per night) is a 22-room
boutique heritage hotel in an
elegant building from 1900.
Don’t be fooled by its
pristine white façade, for
there are plenty of fun,
artistic touches such as
stenciled tree branches
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Ann Siang comes
alive at night.
N
4 1
AN
N
SI
AN
3
G
RD
ER
.
SK
6 2
Browsing the
IN
ER
Little DrÖm Store.
D.
5
adorning the walls and i need
tranquility do not disturb
signs. Its rooftop bar, Ying
Yang, offers stunning views
of the city.
6 A sea urchin pudding?
Not just a quirk of the menu
at tapas bar Lolla (22 Ann
Siang Rd.; 65/6423-1228; lolla.
com.sg; dinner for two from
S$160), but considered Shave and a haircut
legendary by foodies in this at Truefitt & Hill.
town, and far beyond. Lolla
made waves when it opened
a year ago with its
Mediterranean-influenced
bites, and was named to
Zagat’s 2013 list of “The 10
Hottest Restaurants in the
World.” So book early.
Note: On Fridays and
Saturdays from 7 p.m. to
2 a.m., the Ann Siang area is
closed to traffic and becomes Snazzy interior at
The Club Hotel.
pedestrian-only. ✚
Radar
s e r i o us ly ?

Smash in the
New Year
These good-luck rituals
make a midnight kiss seem
downright dull.

Seafood and
champagne pairings at
Le Dôme de Cristal.

drink

↑ South Africa In
downtown Jo-burg, locals
throw old appliances out the
window. Heads up!
Colombia Hoping for a
travel-filled year, residents
tote empty suitcases around
the block.
Denmark Danes hurl old
plates and glasses...against
the doors of friends’ and
relatives’ houses.
Japan The faithful wear a
costume of the next year’s
zodiac animal (in 2014:
a horse) to the local temple,
where bells chime a sacred
BUBBLE TROUBLE
Our cups runneth over—the first ever Cristal-themed bar
has opened in Hong Kong. By Helen Dalley
Many glasses will cin cin to celebrate this Decked out in a champagne (what else?)
effervescent opening. While exclusive color scheme, the globular-shaped space
ventures from luxury wine and spirits provides a dramatic setting that’s more
brands have been around for a while in Paris than Hong Kong. Its Oyster and
Greater China—mega resort Galaxy Macau Champagne Bar is backed by a giant antique
boasts the only Macallan whisky bar in the mirror, designed so singletons can discreetly
world and Beijing hosts one of just a handful check each other out. Sure to set the mood
of Bollinger bars globally at Duck de Chine for mingling, 1,500 bottles of champagne are
—Hong Kong is upping the ante with the on offer, including one of our favorites:
world’s first Cristal-branded restaurant and Cristal Rose 2004. After dinner, stop by the
bar, Le Dôme de Cristal. Owned by the Louis outdoor terrace for a Black Velvet amid the
Roederer Champagne house, this city’s towering concrete canyons. cristal-hk.
prestigious cuvée is renowned for its com; dinner for two HK$1,600; glass of Louis

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F L E D O M E D E C R I S TA L ( 2 ) ; J O H N L A W T O N (5 ) ; I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y L- D O P A
108 times. 
—melanie lieberman elegant, concentrated character. Roederer Brut NV HK$178.

1 For the Art Lover Surveying hits—from Yves Saint Laurent to

b o o ks 113 artists from 25 countries, Astérix and Babar—and a beacon
The World Atlas of Street Art to anyone yearning for la vie

Good Reads
and Graffiti by Rafael Schacter
(Yale University Press, US$35)
makes a case for graffiti as
serious public art. Standouts
Gifts for the globetrotters on your list. include Mexico City’s Sego y
By Kolby Yarnell Ovbal and Berlin’s Aram Bartholl.
5 of pictures of a Portuguese beach.
2 For the Foodie D.O.M.:
Rediscovering Brazilian
4
Ingredients (Phaidon, US$50),
3
the lushly photographed first
2
cookbook by legendary São Paulo
1 chef Alex Atala, tells a powerful
story about not only exotic
ingredients but also people,
places and national identity.
3 For the Francophile Bérénice
Vila Baudry’s French Style
(Assouline, US$65) is a breezy tour
of the country’s greatest visual
française (that is, most of us).
4 For the Beach Fanatic Time
& Tide: Photographs of Praia
Piquinia (Chronicle, US$35) is
Christian Chaize’s riveting series
All taken from the same angle,
they’re animated by changes in
weather, light, bathers and tides.
5 For the History Buff Goethe’s
Italian Journey is one of the great
travel chronicles of the 19th
century, and the large, sumptuous
Grand Tour: A Photographic
Journey Through Goethe’s Italy
(Hatje Cantz, US$150) pairs his
memorable quotes with historical
images of the Colosseum, Piazza
San Marco and other sites.

26 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar
t r av e l u n i f o r m

ORASRI
BALENCIAGA
HONNOLD
For the Thai model and actress,
travel is about keeping it classy.
By Loren Braunohler
“My father taught me the importance
of dressing well from a young age,
which is why I always wear beautiful
clothes when I travel,” says Orasri
Balenciaga Honnold. For the former
Mrs. Thailand (a beauty pageant for
married women) and the runner-up
for the title of Thailand’s Next Top A jacket like this Wallis
Model, being in the air is a first-class (wallis.co.uk) leopard-
print number “not only
affair. The multi-talented Honnold,
looks elegant, but
also a restaurateur, is not shy to admit dresses up an outfit.”
that she often chooses her travel
destinations based on food—whether
a weekend excursion to Hong Kong for
xiao long bao or a jaunt to Provence for  “Sometimes all you
wine. Her carry-on always includes a need to complete an
jacket and a scarf, both to stay warm outfit is one bold-sized
on the plane and to brighten up an ring,” like this amethyst
number designed
outfit. Her jewelry tip? Travel with
by Tan Jewelers (66-
one bold set and vary your look daily 81/626-6555).
by wearing different pieces. ✚

These fashion-forward
“A scarf doesn’t need to studded pants,
be designer.” Honnold by Wallis, “are
found this colorful piece This coral Louis comfortable and have
at Bangkok’s Chatuchak Vuitton (louisvuitton. stretch. When you
weekend market. com) duffel adds a “pop travel, it is so important
of color” and “doesn’t to wear clothes with
get dirty easily.” stretch.”

28 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M Photographed by Ausadavut Sarum

Radar

1 2 3

T O P, F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F E V A A I R ; © B A N O L 2 0 0 7 / D R E A M T I M E S . C O M ; © N I T I N U T 3 8 0 / D R E A M T I M E S . C O M ; C E N T E R , F R O M L E F T: © I W I K O Z 6 / D R E A M T I M E S . C O M ; © P I N D I YAT H 10 0 /
D R E A M T I M E S . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F R O YA L J O R D A N I A N A I R L I N E S ; B O T T O M , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F E M I R AT E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F D R A G O N A I R ; © O H M AY M AY / D R E A M T I M E S . C O M
4 5 6

7 8 9

1 This carrier boasts dancing man, in the runway, proudly man-made structure,
quiz not one but two favor of a blossom in representing the the Burj Khalifa.
generations of Hello colors representing “Pearl of the Indian 8 Hong Kong’s

IN PLANE SIGHT Kitty Jets.

2 “The Flying
the temples, orchids
and silks for which
Ocean”.
6 Hop on one of
fire-breathing beast.
9 Were you aboard
How closely did you study up on your Kangaroo” is the its home is famed. these jets if you’re the world’s first
airplane art the last time you had a long second oldest airline 4 The Silver Kris is headed to the Dead commercial
layover? To find out, try matching these in the world. well known in the air. Sea. non-stop transpolar
lively liveries to their respective air 3 This airline 5 These planes 7 Attention Captain: flight from Toronto
carriers. swapped out its old featuring a peacock Please steer clear of to Hong Kong?
logo, featuring a always show off on the world’s tallest —loren braunohler

A N S W E R S 1 E V A A I R 2 Q A N TA S 3 T H A I A I R W AY S 4 S I N G A P O R E A I R L I N E S 5 S R I L A N K A N A I R L I N E S 6 R O YA L J O R D A N I A N A I R L I N E S 7 E M I R AT E S 8 D R A G O N A I R 9 C AT H AY P A C I F I C

30 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar The Cement Wreck is so
packed with sea life that
one of its decks is often
called the “Coral Garden.”

a dv e n t u r e

Taking the Plunge

In one of the wealthiest countries in the world, you’ll
find some of the most unexpected treasure hidden at
the bottom of the ocean. Diana Hubbell dives in.

Right as I was starting to
wonder if this was a good
idea, the parachute opened.
A split second later, I was
yanked off the boat deck and
airborne, drifting 30 meters
over ships bobbing near
Serasa Beach, Brunei. The
tiny affluent sultanate often
lures travelers seeking out
one of its many golf courses,
or a safe family-friendly
haven. Few people come
here for adventure, but my
first time parasailing
certainly qualified.
I had an endless view of
the ocean as I drifted
through the sky, and while
this panorama was
definitely worth my minor
heart attack, even more
awaited beneath the surface.
Snorkelers can expect to see
cuttlefish and sea eagles
around coral-crusted Pelong
Rock, while intrepid (and
Open Water Certified) divers
have the chance to explore
some of the most accessible
shipwrecks in all of Asia.
Sunken ships act as
artificial reefs, providing a
habitat for a dazzling array
of marine life. As their hulls
rust and decay, corals take
root, drawing everything
from brilliantly hued
schools of rainbow fish to
swarms of barracuda.
Wrecks also tend to attract
sea turtles, making them
one of the best places to spot
these gentle giants.
Brunei Bay features four
capsized vessels at a depths
of roughly 20 to 30 meters,
each with its own historic
and sometimes spooky back
story—the Blue Water Wreck
capsized on Friday the 13th,
while the American Wreck is
a mine-blasted warship now
teeming with coral and
exotic, finned fauna like
scorpionfish. Cement
Wreck, originally a cargo
ship from Japan, is so
packed with sea life that one
of its decks is nicknamed the
“Coral Garden.” In this lush,
undersea landscape, octopi
slink, batfish swarm and
lionfish prowl. So follow the
lead of these beautiful old
boats, and descend into the
deep. Poni Divers offers
guided dives of all of the
wrecks; Serasa Watersports
Complex, Serasa Beach;
67-3/223-3655; facebook.com/
PoniDivers. ✚

32 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M Photographed by Andrew Cheng

 An assortment of
dishes cooked or
carved tableside
at Tables, in
Bangkok.

dining

Dinner and a Show

Forget Top Chef—the best culinary theatrics are happening
right under your nose. By Diana Hubbell
Molecular-gastro wizardry and edible Alaskas at your table. (Do order a
Nordic landscapes may come and go, ramekin of the rigatoni and Gruyére.)
but there’s no substitute for the drama The sommelier has concocted an
of classic fare prepared and served impressive wine list, but the theatrics
tableside. Perhaps as a backlash against are best enjoyed over one of the deadly
faddish foods, restaurants around dirty martinis—shaken at your side.
Southeast Asia are going back to basics Over in Singapore, eager
and flambéing those sauces and tossing Instagrammers have been flooding
those Caesars before your very eyes. the web with snapshots of The White
Take Bangkok’s Tables (Grand Rabbit’s (thewhiterabbit.com/sg;
Hyatt Erawan Bangkok; bangkok. dinner for two S$150) iconic crêpes
grand.hyatt.com; dinner for two Suzette, finished in a blaze of orange
Bt4,200), long known for its truffle liquor. Meanwhile, in one of Hong
C O U R T E S Y O F TA B L E S ( 3 )

risotto and lobster thermidor. The
restaurant has had a makeover,
transforming into an old-school
steakhouse where chefs in immaculate
whites carve Paleolithic-looking
Tomahawk chops and ignite baked
Kong’s grande dames, Gaddi’s (The
Peninsula Hong Kong; peninsula.com;
dinner for two HK$2,600) continues
the same tableside service that’s made
it a landmark for 60 years. The menu
has evolved, but the feel is timeless. ✚
Radar ↓ The Routine
Buttered toast and coffee is Browne’s
breakfast, wherever he is in the world.
One regular stop: Tokyo’s Hotel Okura
(hotelokura.co.jp), below.

The Latest →
The designer’s
new line of
reimagined
men’s beachwear
includes this
preppy-with-a-
punch polo and
swim trunks.

← The Carry-On
In the sleek black leather
briefcase of his own
design: personalized
Crane & Co. stationery
for thank-you notes.

↑ The Suit Browne is rarely caught

not wearing one of his ultra-trim
suits, which can cause unintended

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: K A R I N K O H L B E R G / C O N T O U R B Y G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L O K U R A T O K Y O ;
confusion. “People think I’m a pilot,”
he laughs. “I’ve been offered
discounts at Starbucks.” ← The Women’s
Collection
Browne made a
splash last
January when
spotlight Michelle Obama
wore a coat he

Thom
TO M S C H I E R L I T Z (3); C O U R T E SY O F C L A R I D G E ’S ; O B E R TO G I L I ; A S H R E Y N O L D S
designed to the
inauguration.
This look is in

Browne
stores now.

The New York–based fashion

designer made his name on a ↑ The Hotels
“The service at Claridge’s
prim, classic and sometimes (claridges.co.uk), in London, is
offbeat look, a credo that is unbelievable—though they
echoed in his travel style. won’t let me wear shorts in
the restaurant,” he says. “But
“I’m a horrible creature of habit,” I appreciate when
he admits. “I pack more simply establishments adhere to
than most people—I don’t bring tradition.” Another favorite:
the iconic Villa d’Este
much stuff.” We take a peek
(villadeste.com), left, on Italy’s
at his well-ordered universe.  Lake Como.
—rachel felder

34 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar
Eat “They serve delicious
m y tow n
traditional soup dumplings
(my favorite is pork with a
Beijing en Vogue pinch of crab roe) with other
Shanghainese delicacies at
Ding Tai Fung [dintaifung.
As the founding editor of Vogue China, Angelica com.cn]. This oldie but
Cheung is a trendsetter for the world’s biggest goodie is sometimes sneered
market. Gabrielle Jaffe asks the doyenne of at as being westernized
Chinese fashion for her tips on how to Chinese food, but the
make the very most of the nation’s capital. cooking is still so good that
locals continue to flock here
regardless. As an added
impetus, we once even
spotted Christian Bale in
one of the Beijing locations.”
+ “I also like to go to Made
in China, in the Grand Hyatt
[beijing.grand.hyatt.com;
dinner for two RMB500],
which is known for its
Peking duck.”
Stay “When visiting friends
ask, I recommend the
Opposite House
[theoppositehouse.com;
doubles from RMB1,955] for
its modern minimalist
design.” + “Those who
consider impeccable service
the priority should head to
The Peninsula [peninsula.
com; doubles from
RMB1,120], where the staff is
always attentive.”
Clockwise from top: Editor-
in-chief of Vogue China,
Angelica Cheung; bold
lighting at Ullens Center for
Contemporary Art; delicate
Peking duck at Made in China;
outside the Opposite House.
36 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Shop “I like to visit BNC
[86-10/6416-9045] in
Sanlitun North for its
fashion by Chinese
designers and crafts from
Chinese artists, as well as
Dong Liang Studio [Unit
102, 6 Chaoyangmenwai
Dajie, Building 2, Central
Park, Chaoyang Dist.; 86-10/
8404-7648], another boutique
specializing in Chinese
designs.” + “Panjiayuan
Antique Market [18 Huawei
Li, Chaoyang Dist.; 86-10/
6775-2405] is a great place to
go for interesting and quirky
bits and pieces.”
Do “798 Art District has
plenty of exciting galleries.
Among the best is the Ullens
Center for Contemporary
Art [ucca.org.cn/en], where
major exhibitions are
staged. I really respect the
Ullens couple behind it—
they have done a lot to
promote contemporary
Chinese art.” + “Beijing also
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F A N G E L I C A C H E U N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F U L L E N S C E N T E R F O R C O N T E M P O R A R Y A R T;
boasts some fabulous parks.
My favorite is the Ritan
Park, which is right in the
middle of the city. It is full
of retired people dancing
and singing.” ✚
COURTESY OF MADE IN CHINA; COURTESY OF THE OPPOSITE HOUSE
Indulge at Hyatt Regency Phuket Resort
We invite you to experience the first Hyatt branded Resort on Phuket.
199 well-appointed rooms, terraced up a hill south of Kamala Beach, coupled with
our legendary Thai hospitality will ensure you feel more than welcome.

Reservations +66 76 234 123 or phuket.regency.hyatt.com

HYATT REGENCY PHUKET RESORT

16/12 Moo 6, Tambon Kamala Amphur Kathu,
Phuket 83150, Thailand

HYATT REGENCY PHUKET RESORT, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Hotels Corporation. ©2013 Hyatt Hotels Corporation. All rights reserved.
Radar

Deliciously messy at Paradise Road

Ministry of Crab. and its treasures.

Monkeying around
at Gangaramaya
Buddhist Temple.

Casa Colombo’s
vintage welcome.

why go

Capturing Colombo
Sri Lanka’s capital is bustling with more than just business. Here are five ways to
make the most of this historic harbor town. Story and photos by Stephanie Zubiri

Ride in style Treasure hunt Get down and dirty Soul search Melt into the sunset
Get a pampered Founded by local Leave decorum at the A maze of talismans, End the day staring
pick-up in one of Casa designer Shanth door of the Ministry statues, prayer rooms out into the Indian
Colombo’s (casa Fernando, Paradise of Crab (ministry and antiques, the Ocean with a festive
colombo.com; doubles Road (paradiseroad. ofcrab.com; half-kilo Gangaramaya cocktail in hand—try
from US$200) vintage lk) looks like the crabs from Rs3,000), Buddhist Temple the Old World Charm,
1930’s cars, complete inside of Ali Baba’s housed in the Old (Gangaramaya, 61, Sri a blended Pimm’s
with champagne and cavern. From Dutch Hospital, and Jinarathana Rd.; concoction laced with
majordomo. He’ll set stunning blue-white dive elbow-deep in a 94-11/243-5169) is not cinnamon… and
up your entire visit, ceramics to spicy, rich black only a place of prayer adventure. The
from restaurant handcrafted pepper curry crab. but a piece of history. garden terrace at the
reservations to silverware and These super fresh Sri A magnificent tree iconic Galle Face
tuk-tuk tours, before embroidered linen, Lankan crabs weigh grows in the center of Hotel (gallefacehotel.
you even set foot in this shop is a temple in at more than half a the temple, and each com; drinks for two
this old colonial of impeccable taste to kilo. Indulge in the branch hangs heavy Rs1,200) is the perfect
mansion. Feel like suit all lifestyles. Not fluffy flesh of the big with a thousand place to sip
lazing around the enough luggage fat claws as bits of wishes. Get lost in its sundowners while
pink pool instead? space? They ship all shell and sauce fly in intricate patterns and kids play with kites in
That’s cool too. over the world. all directions. Mmm. peaceful energy. the distance. ✚

38 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar

goods

BETTER THAN
BAREFOOT
Slip right into island
time by strapping
Cronuts, on a pair of Bridget
Southeast Asian- Sandals. Created
style, by Café Mozu.
in Jamaica by former
model and Playboy
trending Bunny Bridget Brown,

Faux-nuts
they’re seen on
the island’s most
fashionable feet.

CLOCK WISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF CAFÉ MOZU; TOM SCHIERLIT Z

New York’s confection craze hits Southeast Asian shores.
By Diana Hubbell
Naysayers have called it the world’s
most overhyped pastry, but it is rare to
see a puff of dough launch a black
market. When Dominique Ansel came
up with the “cronut”—a deep-fried
croissant with icing and a cream
filling—hordes of New Yorkers lined up
outside his bakery and scalpers started
hawking them on Craigslist.
The official cronut is trademarked,
but it didn’t take long for flaky, fried
copycats to start popping up across
Asia. This is a region full of sweet-
tooths, after all. Brunetti (Tanglin
Mall, 163 Tanglin Rd., Singapore;
65/6733-9088; S$4.50) sells variations
with Nutella or vanilla custard topped
(Reggae royal Rita
Marley is a fan.)
with chopped pistachios, while over in We love the Rose, with
Thailand Café Mozu (lebua at State
its gladiator ankle
Tower, Bangkok; 66-2/624-9555; lebua.
com; breakfast Bt600 per person) is all wraps and a leather
about tropical flavors like passion fruit rosette that blooms
and coconut. Manila’s Wildflour Café between your toes.
+ Bakery (4th Ave. GF Netlima Bldg,
Global City; 63-2/856-7600; 120 pesos)
bridgetsandals.net;
sticks close to the cronut’s small-batch from US$95.
roots, as does Swissbeck (GF Cochrane —sarah greaves-gabbadon
St., Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd.,
Central; 852/3421-0438; swissbeck.hk;
HK$30) in Hong Kong: although the
labor-intensive pastries usually sell
out before lunchtime, Swissbeck
continues to bake only around 100 a
day. So queue up early.

Confessions of a Honeymoon Planner

We got the scoop from a veteran travel agent specializing in romantic
getaways. Turns out the job’s not all champagne and rose petals.

I once
I was working had clients come
with one couple A couple home from
over e-mail, and they showed up to an Bora-Bora three days
couldn’t agree on appointment to finalize early, because they
anything. They actually their plans in the Maldives. were bored. Bored!
ended up breaking up The bride and I had In Bora-Bora!
over e-mail—and everything planned; they just
I was cc’d!  had to choose a hotel. When we
started discussing it, the
groom blurted out, “Wait—
I thought we were
going to Italy!”

40 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar
design

Shared Visions
Four architects living in Asia explain how they are influenced by the
vibrant cities where they live and work. By Karen Fong

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: R O B L O U D ; B L O O M B E R G , G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F S T E P H E N P I M B L E Y; C O U R T E S Y O F F E D E R I C O M A S I N I
STEPHEN PIMBLEY, FEDERICO MASIN,
WELSH ITALIAN
Founding Director, Spark, Partner, HBA Architects, Hong Kong
Singapore Federico Masin heads up HBA
Stephen Pimbley first moved to Architects Hong Kong and has worked
Singapore 13 years ago to on a number of regional projects
oversee the redevelopment of the Clarke Quay area, including the restoration of Shanghai’s Bund 18, which
creating a major food, beverage and entertainment hub. won unesco recognition.

What has changed about What changes do you What inspires you about moved out here. A lot of
Singapore since you first see in the design trends Hong Kong? Hong Kong is what we do has very subtle
moved there? A lot more in Asia? What interests me a great exercise in extreme psychological elements and
young people are is the blurring of boundaries density; here you learn how symbolic interpretations.
eschewing traditional for working, living and to use space cleverly. For a designer, not only is
careers and being more playing. This is happening Do you try to bring there the challenge of
inventive in their life at a faster rate in Asia than design elements from getting the right message
choices. Areas like Tiong the rest of the world, your home country into across but also to
Bahru and Haji Lane are perhaps because people are your work? Constantly. I understand the culture we
now much more lively. happier to use technology am a very curious person are immersed in.
What do you enjoy most as a positive lifestyle tool. and I believe there is What changes do you
about working overseas? What challenges do you always a lesson to be see in the design and
Traveling for work really face as a modern learned. So I take note of architectural aesthetics
expands one’s cultural architect? There’s been a ideas and little details in the cities you live in? I
reference points. There is a kind of cultural flattening everywhere I go.  think there is an increasing
great reliance on the local —every city looks the same What are the challenges uniformity amongst cities.
team, which enriches the and things are no longer of working in foreign Trends are becoming more
experience through the “local.” Now the question is cities? The challenges are important than traditions.
blend of international and how to rediscover a sense cultural mainly. But they’re But hopefully a new
regional knowledge. of a place. the very reasons why I identity will emerge.

42 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Radar

CLINT NAGATA, ROSSANA HU,

AMERICAN
Founder and Creative Director,
Blink Design Group, Bangkok
Clint Nagata started his career
in Hawaii, moving to Bangkok
after 14 years to set up his own firm. His most recent work
includes the Conrad Sanya Haitang Bay and Jumeirah
Dhevanafushi in the Maldives.
TAIWANESE
Founder, Neri&Hu Design and
Research Office, Shanghai
Rossana Hu is half of Neri&Hu, the
award-winning architect duo based
in Shanghai and responsible for the city’s Waterhouse on
the Bund and Italian restaurant, Capo. Hu’s family hails
from Shanghai; she previously worked in the U.S.

Why did you choose to What have you added to Why did you relocate to now” and the charm of
move to Bangkok? Thailand’s skyline? It is Shanghai? Before moving history. This aspect of

Bangkok is a bustling
metropolis that I find both
chaotic and calming at the
same time. As often as I
travel—I’m away at least
200 days a year—it is always
refreshing to arrive back
home in Bangkok.
What interests you
about the local design
scene? Local designers
used to focus on all things
international—but now
they delve more into their
own culture, which is rich
in tradition and history.
The result is a wonderful
contemporary
interpretation that is
influencing both design
and architecture. There is
also more support for local
communities through the
sourcing of materials and
special skills.
more about what have we
tried to add to their
shorelines rather than
skylines, since we focus on
resort hotels, like our
recent project—the Regent
Phuket Cape Panwa. In
each project, we try to
introduce something
distinctive to popular
locales. It’s more about
creating memorable
experiences than just
iconic architecture.
Do you try to incorporate
elements of your
upbringing into your
designs? I’m of Japanese
and Hawaiian ancestry
and was raised in Hawaii.
No doubt, that influences
my work. I have been told
that there is a Zen-ness and
a sense of modern
simplicity to my design.
to Shanghai, we spent 10
years traveling to Asia for
various projects. Lyndon
Neri [Hu’s husband and
partner at the firm] was in
charge of the Three on the
Bund project while
working for Michael
Graves. The project gave us
the opportunity to live in
Shanghai for an extended
period of time and we began
to feel the calling to stay.
Architecture-wise we felt
that many of the cultural
issues explored in our work
could be best realized here.   What are the demands
What inspires you about
Shanghai? The very fabric
of Shanghai as a city and
the everyday activities
here. More than anything,
Shanghai is a city that is
convoluted with both the
excitement of the “here and
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: D A V I D J O H N S O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F R O S S A N A H U ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F C L I N T N A G ATA
complexity and
contradiction is very
interesting to us as
designers.
What has influenced your
design aesthetic?
Studying abroad formed
the foundation of my
architectural thinking and
design process. Design
elements are not like
chemicals you can mix into
a formula and create
results. Everything we
come into contact with
inspires our work.
of working in foreign
cities? The challenges are
more practical, like lacking
a good network of
contacts.  But it’s also
refreshing. Architects need
to be ready to work
anywhere in the world. ✚

44 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
CAPTURE
THE MOMENTS
Extraordinary winter sun moments with Centara
Escaping the winter chill of home is easy.
White beaches, blue oceans, green islands, and sun-filled skies.
Exotic places like Thailand, Vietnam, Bali, the Maldives,
Mauritius, Sri Lanka. All only a click away, for we have
resort hotels in each of these exciting destinations.
Winter holidays made easy by Centara.

10.00 am
Woke up late and still have a whole warm sunny day ahead of me

THAILAND • BALI • SRI LANKA

MALDIVES • MAURITIUS • VIETNAM

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centaraho t el sreso rt s • mycenta r a Life should be rewarding

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Radar Photographed
in Delta’s Business
Elite cabin, where the
new perks at turndown
include a full-size Westin
Heavenly comforter
on a 180-degree,
flat-bed seat.

st yle
1
Sitting Pretty
The best guarantee for a smooth flight:
choosing the right accessories.
Photographed by Arthur Belebeau
Styled by Mimi Lombardo

2
7

3
1 Leather carry-on by Louis Vuitton. 2 Felted tweed bag, Prada. 3 Cashmere shawl,
Christopher Fischer. 4 Calfskin carry-all, Hermès. 5 Ostrich wallet, Tiffany & Co.
6 Leather iPad sleeve, Etro. 7 Canvas vanity case, Louis Vuitton. 8 Saffiano key holder,
Prada. On her: Crepe blazer, Marc by Marc Jacobs; poplin blouse, Carven; jersey pant,
Donna Karan New York; suede flats, Charlotte Olympia; 18-karat yellow-gold earrings,
Marco Bicego; ceramic-and-leather watch, Omega.
8
46 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 1

5
3

4 1 Nylon Dopp kit by Salvatore Ferragamo. 2 Leather folio,

Smythson. 3 Italian-leather duffel, Dressage Collection.
4 Leather zip portfolio, Salvatore Ferragamo. 5 Reversible
black-and-gray cashmere blanket, Christopher Fischer.
6 Suede loafers, Bottega Veneta. 7 Four-wheeled carry-on,
Rimowa. On him: Cashmere sweater and cotton shirt,
Brunello Cucinelli; polarized sunglasses, Under Armour;
stainless-steel-and-leather watch, Longines.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 47
Radar
flights

BEAM ME UP
We might not be quite ready for
teleportation, but air-travel tech is
moving at warp speeds. The U.S. has
announced that soon flyers won’t have
to switch off their smartphones or
Kindles at any time during a flight.
Great news for gadget junkies, and Air travel tech
there’s no doubt other parts of the is moving at
globe will soon follow suit, moving warp speeds.
towards an increasingly digitized
travel experience. AirAsia and squash glasses connected to the airline good-bye airport lines! Biometric
Singapore Airlines have already moved reservation systems that let him verify technology, with devices that sense the
to online check-in and self-printed or your passport and ticket, and authorize wearer’s identity, could be integrated to
mobile boarding passes, while on- the match automatically. “Interaction send the whole concept of passports
board Wi-Fi is becoming the norm for can be via video analysis of what a staff out the window. When it comes to
most long-haul flights. member is looking at, like a boarding planning trips, new services like Apple
Meanwhile, recent experiments pass or bag tag,” says SITA’s chief Siri can be used to arrange all the
with Google Glass have the staff at technology officer, Jim Peters, “or details for you. This tech is here now

SITA Labs, a specialist in air transport
communications, dreaming big.
Picture Lt. Commander Geordi La
Forge checking you in, wearing sci-fi
voice recognition, or a combination of
both.” Add to that the possibilities of
security staff and even passengers
themselves sporting this headgear:
C O U R T E S Y O F S I TA
and we’re just scratching the surface of
its potential in terms of travel. So in
the words of Captain Picard, “Let’s see
what’s out there.” —david ngo ✚

At the Heart of it all.

 Sunshine
Mountain Lodge,
in Banff, Canada.

t+l p i c ks

Powder Rooms
The best way to end a day of skiing? Sleep at the foot of the mountain.
This flurry of new and reinvigorated ski-in, ski-out hotels is your ticket.

Hokkaido, Japan Pradollano, Spain Kangwon, North Korea Banff, Canada Verbier, Switzerland
C O U R T E S Y O F S U N S H I N E M O U N TA I N L O D G E

Niseko Annupuri Soak up Andalusian North Korea might not The sole slopeside hotel in The W Verbier Hotel &
Mountain gets nearly sunshine on the terrace of spring to mind as a luxury Canada’s Banff National Residences anchors a
15 meters of snowfall Nordic-inspired El skiing destination (0.02 Park, Sunshine buzzing shopping district
a year (take that, Aspen, Lodge, set in the Sierra percent of its population Mountain Lodge sits at around the Medran
with your mere 5 meters). Nevada of Granada— skis) but leader Kim Jong 2,200 meters and can be gondola. Interiors are
Chalet Ivy has balconies Western Europe’s highest Un is pouring millions of reached only by gondola. spunky (globe lights; furry
overlooking the range, after the Alps. It dollars into Masik Pass, Don’t worry—lift tickets pillows), but Pica Pica
slopes and a marble feels like a luxury hunting aiming to open 110 are included in the rate restaurant, run by star chef
onsen fed by an cabin: all log walls and kilometers of ski runs, a (along with snowshoeing Sergi Arola, is serious
underground hot spring. soft-hide upholstery. lavish chalet and a and tobogganing trips). business. wverbier.com.
chaletivy.com. ellodge.com. heliport by the year’s end. skibanff.com. —brian kevin

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 49
Radar

TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA’S

THE
BEST
OF
2013 At Sundara, Bali.

Overwhelmed by openings?
Here is our well-culled list of the
newest restaurants, bars, hotels,
spas, shops and more
across the region.
COURTESY OF SUNDAR A

50 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 * BEST OF AUSTRALIA*
By Ian Neubauer

STAY
Salamanca Wharf Hotel
Sandwiched between a pair of 19th-century warehouses on Hobart’s water- Bay of Fires.
front like a daring piece of contemporary art, Salamanca Wharf Hotel is a
cutting-edge nod to Tasmania’s rich colonial past. This boutique beauty has 22
studio, one-bedroom and loft penthouse apartments decked out in bespoke
Tasmanian timber furniture and photography from Antarctica. The ground
floor is home to Castray Esplanade Food + Wine and backs onto Salamanca
Place, where the city’s famous Salamanca Market erupts on Saturday
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B AY O F F I R E S L O D G E S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F A U C T I O N R O O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F L O X S T O C K & B A R R E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A L A M A N C A ; C O U R T E S Y O F F R A N K I E B R O W N C A F E

mornings. 17A Castray Espl., Hobart; 61-3/6244-7007; salamancawharfhotel.

com; rooms from A$195.

EAT
Lox Stock & Barrel
Every morning, locals at Sydney’s famous Bondi Beach can be seen queuing to
get a table at Lox Stock & Barrel. The brainchild of Lianne and Neil Gottheiner, Auction Rooms Cafe.
the siblings behind Bondi’s iconic Brown Sugar café, Lox Stock & Barrel is a
New-York deli specializing in gourmet sandwiches made from bagels, brisket,
panini and challah baked daily in-house. 140 Glenayr Ave., Bondi, Sydney;
61-2/9300-0368; loxstockandbarrel.com.au; sandwiches A$13.
Frankie Brown Cafe
The newest venue in Byron Bay, the east coast capital of alternative cool,
Frankie Brown Cafe’s menu pulls no punches with offerings like “melt in your
mouth beef cheek” and “ooey gooey chocolate explosion pudding.” Local
artists like award-winning singer-songwriter Pete Murray (who also co-owns
the café) perform on weekends. 32 Lawson St., Byron Bay; 61-2/6680-7474;
frankiebrown.com.au; mains from A$29.

DRINK
Lox Stock & Barrel.
Auction Rooms Cafe
Sure, it’s a well-known fact that Melbourne is one of the world’s great coffee
capitals. But for the very best cup, follow the city’s caffeine lovers to Auction
Rooms Cafe. Set in a large, lofty building with an internal courtyard, this
industrial restaurant and bar expresses small-batch roasted beans sourced
from East Timor, Papua New Guinea and other exotic locales. 103 Errol St.,
North Melbourne; 61-3/9326-7749; auctionroomscafe.com.au; coffees from A$4.
Choo Choo’s Bar
The staff dress down, beverages are served in jars and graffiti scores the walls.
But it’s the service, not the décor, that make this character-filled watering hole
in the heart of Perth’s central business district stand out. Rather than
handing out cocktail menus, the mixologists at Choo Choo’s play 20 questions
with customers to figure out their perfect drink. Brookfield Place, 125 St.
Salamanca Wharf Hotel.
Georges Tce., Perth; 61-4/1645-9291; choochoosbar.com; cocktails from A$12.

INDULGE
Bay of Fires Lodge Spa
Inspired by local healing practices that harness the restorative properties of
Australia’s native botanicals, the new spa at the Bay of Fires Lodge is divine.
Set on a clifftop 40 meters above a sugar-white beach on Tasmania’s remote
northeast coast, it features a bathing pavilion, a spa boutique and an outdoor
deck with infinite ocean views. The Gardens Rd., Ansons Bay, Tasmania;
61-3/6392-2211; bayoffires.com.au; 60-min massage from A$135.

Frankie Brown Cafe.

Radar
* THE BEST OF BURMA 2013 *
* BEST
By Fiona MacGregor
EAT
Union Bar
Four Seasons and Grill
Shenzhen
Situated in the colonial splendor of
Rangoon’s Strand Road, Union Bar and
Grill is a stylish but relaxed spot to
enjoy a specialty cocktail or decent
glass of wine. A chilled daytime
atmosphere makes it perfect for
coffee and a Sunday brunch.  Craving
comfort food? Try their pasta, pizza
or burgers. 42 Strand Rd., Botahtaung,
Rangoon; unionyangon.com; dinner for
two US$60.
Water Library
Fine dining in Burma doesn’t come in
a more elegant setting. “New Nordic”
cuisine from Swedish Chef Gabriel
Hedlund (formerly of Denmark’s
legendary Noma restaurant) is served
up in a century-old Rangoon mansion
with a wine list that the proprietors
boast is the most extensive in the
country.  And those more interested
in drinking than dining can nurse
a cocktail under the stars in the
adjoining bar’s outdoor lounge.  83/95
corner of Manawharri and Pyay Rds.,
Dagon Township, Rangoon; 95-01/221-
721; mywaterlibrary.com; dinner for
two US$120.
DRINK
Grill Restaurant Maru
Hidden down a side street in
downtown Rangoon, Grill Restaurant
Maru serves up Italian/Japanese
fusion food in a cute café-style setting
52 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
OF BURMA *
with an emphasis on Oriental design.
Its sister wine bar next door, also with
a Japanese theme, is the ideal place to
continue your evening with an after-
dinner tipple. 130/134 GF, Shwe Taung
Tan St., Lamadaw Township, Rangoon;
95-94/2030-8350; dinner for two US$50.
Bar Boon
Dutch-style deli culture makes this
the coolest place to grab an espresso or
snack in downtown Rangoon. Just two
minutes’ walk from the city’s famous
Bogyoke Market, and close to several
upmarket hotels, the terraced coffee
bar attracts a mix of tourists, expats
and sophisticated young Rangoonites.
The best part? Bar Boon takes latte
art to a new dimension—literally.
Their cappuccinos sport whimsical
3-D foam kittens and melting clocks
straight out of a Dalí masterpiece. 380
Bogyoke Aung San Rd. (Parkson FMI
Center), Pabedan Township, Rangoon;
95-94/2032-1058; coffee K2,500.
INDULGE
La Source Spa
There aren’t many places in Southeast
Asia you can trust when it comes to
having Western tresses highlighted,
but nestled away among the grand
houses of Rangoon’s Inya Road, La
Source Spa offers not just top quality
hair-dressing, but luxurious facials
and aromatic massages too. 80A Inya
Rd., Kamayut Township, Rangoon;
95/151-3280; lasourcebeautyspa.com.
Union Bar and Grill.
California Skin Spa
If your skin is frazzled by the country’s
abundance of sun and dust, then
the Dermalogica treatments at this
salon in Rangoon’s swanky Golden
Valley district will revive you.
Internationally trained staff offer
the latest skincare in a luxurious
atmosphere that will refresh your
spirits as much as your face. 32B,
Inya Myaing Rd., Bahan Township,
Rangoon; 95/153-5097.
STAY
Bagan Lodge
Ancient and modern Burma collide in
this lodge complex on the edge of the
country’s legendary Bagan temples.
Recuperate from wandering the
wonders in the spa or swimming pool,
or simply enjoy the comforts of the
thoughtfully designed rooms. Myat
Lay Rd., New Bagan, Nyaung Oo
Township; 95/0616-5456; bagan-lodge.
com; doubles from US$180.
Novotel
After years of economic isolation,
five-star hotels in Burma have been in
short supply, but things are changing
COURTESY OF UNION BAR AND GRILL
fast and leading the way is Rangoon’s
new Novotel. Set to open by the end of
the year, this behemoth will feature
a total of 366 rooms, was designed by
Singapore’s International Interior
Design Association and is tipped to set
a new standard for accommodation in
Burma. novotel.com.
Radar

Dining at the Duck.
* BEST OF CAMBODIA*
By Naomi Lindt
STAY
Sala Lodges
Two Swiss couples recreated the
charm of a Khmer village at Siem
Reap’s Sala Lodges, populated by 11
gorgeous wooden stilt houses sourced
from across Cambodia and outfitted
with antiques and heavy wood
furnishings. There’s also a saltwater
pool and open-air bar, plus a
restaurant that serves up a
mouthwatering mix of Khmer and
international fare. Near Wat Damnak,
Siem Reap; 855-63/766-699; salalodges.
Public House
Cracking fish and chips, juicy bacon-
topped burgers and shepherd’s pie are
served at Public House, a sleek take on
an English beach house with sea-
foam-hued clapboard walls, blond
wood furniture and metallic
lampshades. There’s also a boozy
brunch on weekends and classic tea
and scones every afternoon. 2401/2
Alleyway, Phnom Penh; 855-23/212-917;
dinner for two US$30.
Chanrey Tree
Named for the tall tree that shades its

Park Hyatt
Siem Reap. com; doubles from US$190.
Park Hyatt Siem Reap
The famed Hotel de la Paix has been
transformed into the Park Hyatt Siem
Reap, marking the most high-profile
hotel opening in town in years. The 108
rooms and suites feature Khmer-
inspired contemporary art and a
subdued palette of beiges and browns.
Sivutha Blvd., Siem Reap; 855-63/211-
234; siemreap.park.hyatt.com; doubles
Evening at from US$276.
Chanrey Tree.
EAT
the Duck
With its dark wood, low lighting and
soft banquettes, the Duck is a moody
yet comfortable entry to Phnom
Penh’s dining scene. The bistro fare is
similarly understated yet full of
impact, with highlights including
duck hoisin spring rolls and melt-in-
your-mouth osso buco. 49 Sothearos
Blvd., Phnom Penh; 855-89/823-704;
the-duck.net; dinner for two US$45.
Nifty knick-knacks at Trunkh. Common Tiger
Expect a fantastical culinary journey
at Common Tiger, where South
African chef Timothy Bruyns
concocts whimsical small plates like
asparagus panna cotta and green
peppercorn- and basil-encrusted sea
bass with a tom kha gel. The complex
flavors are tempered by the
minimalist, concrete and exposed-
brick space. 20 St. 294, Phnom Penh;
855-23/212-917; dinner for two US$60.
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E D U C K ; C O U R T E S Y O F P A R K H YAT T S I E M R E A P ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H A N E R Y T R E E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T R U N K H ; C O U R T E S T Y O F P U B L I C H O U S E
garden, Chanrey Tree provides a
romantic spot to experience fine
Cambodian cooking after a day
touring Angkor Wat. Dishes like sticky
rice with prawn curry and honey-
roasted chicken are served alfresco or
in the lovingly restored traditional
Khmer house, now outfitted with
modern touches like dangling
globular light fixtures. Pokambor
Ave., Siem Reap; 855-63/767-997;
chanreytree.com; dinner for two US$25.
SHOP
Trunkh
Inspired by Cambodia’s quirky
provincial aesthetic, an American
graphic designer and an Australian
marketer opened Trunkh, Phnom
Penh’s first design concept store.
Stocked with hand-painted vintage
signs, screen-printed sarongs and tea
towels, and upcycled salvaged wood
furniture, it’s a must for unusual
keepsakes. Sothearos Blvd. and St. 294,
Phnom Penh; trunkh.com.
SEE
Phare
The famous tumblers, acrobats and
dancers of Battambang’s NGO-run
circus, Phare, have set up a second big
top in Siem Reap, putting on dazzling
shows every night at 7:30 p.m. Behind
Angkor National Museum;
pharecambodiancircus.org; tickets
US$15 to $35.

Sleek style at Public House.

Radar
Shangri-La Jing An.
Four Seasons Shenzhen.
* BESTByOF
Cain Nunns
STAY
Four Seasons Shenzhen
The newest addition to Four Seasons’s
China stable, this modern property
feels right at home in Shenzhen.
Architects Urabanus and interior
gurus Hirsch Bedner & Associates
dreamed up a whimsical light-filled
tower with a sixth level reception
looking down on pockets of greenery,
water features and the sprawling city.
The FOO restaurant, designed by Spin
Design Studio, comes up big with its
pan-Asian menu. 138 Fuhua Third
Rd., Futian Dist.; 86-755/8826-8888;
fourseasons.com/shenzhen; doubles
from RMB1,700.
Mandarin Oriental Pudong
This big-ticket luxury brand opened
its first Shanghai outlet smack on the
Huangpu River with stunning views
of The Bund across the water. The
property is decked out in warm gold
and teal, more than 4,000 pieces of
art and enough high-tech to open an
Apple Premium Reseller store. But
the jaw-dropping butterfly shaped
spa is the biggest jewel in the hotel’s
crown. There are 13 treatment suites
56 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Okra 1949.
Mandarin Oriental Pudong.
CHINA*
to choose from, a crystal steam room,
and a plethora of aromatic goodies.
111 Pudong Rd., Pudong, Shanghai; 86-
21/2082-9888; mandarinoriental.com/
shanghai; doubles from RMB2,400.
Shangri-La Jing An
Shangri-La’s new offering is a
508-room gem that overlooks Mao
Zedong’s old digs and a booming
commercial district that is Middle
Kingdom’s wealthiest. The imposing
steel-and-glass spike in the middle of
shopping malls, skyscrapers and lane
houses has already cemented itself as
the hotel of choice for visiting heads
of state. 1218 Middle Yan’an Rd., Jing
An Kerry Centre, West Nanjing Rd.,
Shanghai; 86-21/2203-8888; shangri-
la.com/shanghai/jinganshangrila;
doubles from RMB2,150.
EAT
Okra 1949
Award-winning New Orleans native
Max Levy’s Beijing hotspot churns out
superb sushi and cocktails nightly. The
second-story eatery’s light blond wood
and pale green design matches Levy’s
farm-to-table philosophy of sourcing
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S H A N G R I - L A J I N G A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F O K R A 19 4 9 ; C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S S H E N Z H E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L P U D O N G
as much locally grown organic
produce as possible. The results are
contemporary bold flavors sans the
stuffy pretension. 1949 The Hidden
City, Courtyard 4, Sanlitun South,
Beijing; 86-10/6593-5087; okra1949.com;
set menu for two RMB700.
DRINK
Janes & Hooch
What better way to symbolize the
constant drumbeat of China’s
voracious economy than a former
Cultural Revolution-era factory
canteen transformed into a roaring
1930’s Prohibition-style speakeasy.
Tucked behind an unmarked entrance,
Janes & Hooch gives way to an exposed
brick den bathed in simmering
darkness. 4 Gongti Bei Rd., Chaoyang
Dist., Beijing; 86-10/6503-2757; drinks
for two RMB140.
Samfaina Resto & Gastro Bar
This hip two-story eatery doles out
super-slow-cooked veal shank, beef
short rib, Joselito ham and a stellar
Iberian pork cheek stew. 532 Fuxing
Zhong Rd., Shanghai; samfaina.com;
tasting menu for two RMB988.
 The Best of Both Worlds
RIMBA Jimbaran Bali, the new sister hotel
of the award-winning AYANA Resort and Spa
Asia’s Best Resort & World’s #1 Spa Hotel – Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Awards
World’s Best Hotels – Travel + Leisure Readers’ Awards
Indonesia’s Best Spa Resort – World Travel Awards

Enjoy the Best of Both Worlds, from the forest to the sea:
A 282-room hotel within the 77-hectare grounds of AYANA Resort and Spa, with sunset views
Six swimming pools including children’s pool with waterslides, swim-up Pool Bar, and Pool Access Rooms
World-class dining including Bali’s first Ah Yat Abalone Seafood Restaurant, UNIQUE Roof-top Bar
offering panoramic sunset views, To’ge all-day dining, and convenient access to AYANA’s 7 restaurants
Priority Access to Rock Bar and private Kubu Beach
Roof-top spa rooms to expand on the Thermes Marins Spa at AYANA
Scenic jogging track and resort shuttle connecting RIMBA to AYANA and Kubu Beach

R I MBA Ji m ba r a n Ba l i | w w w.r i m baji m ba r a n.com | T. +62 361 846 8468 | book i ng @r i m baji m ba r a n.com
Radar
* BEST OF
By Madeline Gressel
STAY
Hotel Indigo
This shimmering skyscraper is designed
to resemble a bronze Chinese dragon. But
the real draw is their vertiginous, glass
rooftop pool, which hangs off the
building’s edge, 29 floors above Queen’s
Road East. 246 Queens Rd. East, Wanchai;
852/3926-3888; doubles from US$280.
Mira Moon Hotel
Mira’s latest property, in the heart of
Wanchai, reinterprets Chinese kitsch to
swish effect. The 91 rooms are colorful
with lacquer accents, standing tubs and
carved wood paneling. 388 Jaffe Rd.,
Wanchai; 852/2643-8888; miramoonhotel.
com; doubles from US$286.
EAT
Chachawan
Yenn Wong, the creative force behind 22
Ships and Duddell’s, has teamed up with
protégé chef Adam Cliff to create this
spicy Isaan Thai joint in Sheung Wan.
Don’t miss the pla phao glua (salt-crusted
Chachawan’s chef Adam Cliff.
Lounging alfresco at Hotel Indigo
9 M O N T H 2 01 3 T R A V E L+ L E I S U R E
HONG KONG *
whole grilled sea bass) or the khee pad, a
succulent crab fried rice. 206 Hollywood
Rd., Hong Kong; 852/2549-0020; dinner for
two HK$700.
Stone Nullah Tavern
Wanchai’s newest hit, this restaurant
serves American fare with a seasonal,
locavore bent. The menu is homey and
eclectic. 69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wanchai,
Hong Kong; 852/3182-0128; stonenullah
tavern.com; dinner for two HK$600.
DRINK
Duddell’s
An instant Hong Kong icon, Duddell’s
combines a gourmet Cantonese menu, a
bar, a gallery and a members-only club into
one elegant, modernist space. The leafy
roof terrace is the perfect place to sip
cocktails . 1 Duddell St.; 852/2525-9191;
duddells.co; drinks for two HK$300.
Caprice Bar
The Four Season’s three Michelin-
starred French restaurant has opened an
adjacent bar specializing in top-shelf
Crispy noodle roll with
fresh prawns at Duddell’s.
Caprice now offers
an adjoining bar.
wines, cheeses and champagnes. The
dark-wood interior manages to be both
warmly intimate and delightfully plush.
Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St.;
852/3196-8888; fourseasons.com; drinks
for two HK$300.
INDULGE
Flawless Spa
Cool graffiti stencils cover this stark, airy
space that is a far cry from your usual
Asian Zen spa. Like everything hip,
facials have gone bespoke, and Flawless
adapts theirs to fit each client’s skin type.
4F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St.;
852/2869-5868; flawless.hk.com.
Amika: Hairdo Bar
The sleek blow-outs of the early century
have been replaced by beach hair and
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F C H A C H A W A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F D U D D E L L’ S ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L I N D I G O ; C O U R T E S Y O F C A P R I C E B A R
braids, and Amika: Hairdo Bar
accommodates Hong Kongers with
perfectly unstudied hairstyles for a night
out. Choose among four blowouts, four
glam updos or four braided looks. 8 Elgin
St.; 852/2291-0070; amikahairdobar.com.
Radar
Blood Orange Mojito at
Eastern & Oriental.
* BEST OF
By Holly McDonald
STAY
Luna2studios
The 14 open-plan suites at Luna2studios
are bold, stylish and funky. The look
evokes nostalgia and futurism in equal
parts: primary colors create a fun
atmosphere in the rooms; iPad docks
play your favorite tunes; and Smeg
fridges chill the drinks. A Piet
Mondrian-esque mosaic beckons in the
communal pool and you can kick back at
the private club or subterranean
cinema. Jln. Sarinande 20-22, Seminyak,
Bali; 62-361/730-402; luna2.com/studios;
doubles from US$545.
Regent Sanur
Sanur is back on the map with the
salubrious beachside Regent’s exquisite
suites. The vision inspired by the
Majapahit empire is grand, but touches
like the private pickup and drop-off
boxes in the spacious suites add a hint of
intimacy to the experience. A 50-meter
infinity pool keeps swimmers and
sunbathers content, while the
boardwalk along Sanur beach makes
this a top family option. Jln. Kusuma
Sari, Sanur, Bali; 62-361/301-1888;
regenthotels.com; doubles from US$647.
60 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Slide into the mosaic pool
at Luna2studios.
INDONESIA*
DRINK
Sundara
The new pool, bar and restaurant at
Bali’s Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay pairs
a chilled-out beachside feel with
elemental luxury. Snare a daybed and
settle in for the day, peering out over the
bay and doing a few lazy laps in the
55-meter pool before the DJs starts their
set and it’s drink o’clock—the enticing
cocktail list was created by Spanish
mixologists. Smoked Lemon Drop
Martini, anyone?  Four Seasons Resort
Bali at Jimbaran Bay, Bali; 62-361/708-
333; sundarabali.com; drinks for two
Rp400,000.
EAT
Merah Putih
Soaring columns and glass walls create
a dramatic yet intimate venue where
Indonesian cuisine takes center stage
with panache that tops the scene in
Bali—and possibly Indonesia. Choose
from classic, authentic dishes from
around the archipelago, or go modern
with one of the more imaginative fusion
dishes. Allow time for a drink at the slick
bar. Jln. Petitenget No.100x, Kerobokan,
Soaring columns at
Merah Putih restaurant.
Bali; 62-361/846-5950; merahputihbali.
com; dinner for two Rp1,200,000.
Teatro Gastroteque
Indonesian chef Mandif Warokka wants
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F E A S T E R N & O R I E N TA L ; C O U R T E S Y O F L U N A 2 S T U D I O S ; C O U R T E S Y O F M E R A H P U T I H
a Michelin star and after a meal here
you’ll see why he deserves one. His
intimate, 24-seat restaurant offers
several brave and creative degustation
menus that have tongues wagging.
Pasta in Java’s famed rawon beef soup?
He makes it work. Textures and flavors
clash yet result in perfect harmony.
Kayu Aya Block C No. 1-2, Seminyak, Bali;
62-361/870-0078; teatrobali.com; set
menu for two Rp980,000.
Eastern & Oriental
You don’t get much more worldly than a
Scottish chef bringing Thai and
Vietnamese food to Indonesians; E&O
Jakarta proves that globalization can be
a good thing. Serving up his exceptional
takes on Southeast Asian cuisine in
breezy yet vintage surrounds, Will
Meyrick’s third restaurant delivers as
deliciously as acclaimed Sarong and
Mamasan in Bali. Menara Rajawali, 1F
Jln. Dr Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung,
Jakarta; 62-21/576-1645; dinner for two
Rp1,200,000.
 AWAKEN
YOUR SENSES

Discover your best self with the Heavenly Spa by Westin™.

Unwind in our thermal pools and receive the spiritual blessings of Bali.

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION,

VISIT HEAVENLYSPABALI.COM OR CALL 062 361 771906

2011 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Westin and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full
terms & conditions visit westinnusaduabali.com
Radar
Costa Pacifica’s
cheerful digs.
Cochinillo atCocktails
Vask. at Niner Ichi Nana
* BEST OF By
THE
Stephanie Zubiri
STAY
El Nido Pangulasian
Emerald lagoons, lush vegetation and
stunning limestone cliffs surround
this new ultra-luxurious island resort
Pangulasian. Stand-alone villas in an
airy contemporary Filipino design
boast views overlooking either the
soft white-sand beach or the bay. Book
the Kalaw Villa with some friends,
complete with its own large lap
pool and private salas. Located on a
secluded area of the island, it offers the
ultimate treat: privacy. elnidoresorts.
com; villas from P30,500 per night.
Costa Pacifica—Raintree Baler
Situated in Baler, Aurora Province,
an often-overlooked region with
historical sites, tropical jungles,
nearby coral reefs, wide deserted
beaches and amazing surf, Costa
Pacifica is a welcome addition to the
resort scene. Modern white suites
accentuated with bright pops of color
and quirky details create a vibe that
is young, fun and just a tad shy of
hipster. Evenings are a festive affair
with wood-fired pizzas and tropical
cocktails set to fantastic music mixes
and a languid setting sun. Buton St.,
Sabang, Baler, Aurora; 63-2/576-4555;
costapacificaraintree.com; doubles
from P7,000 per night.
EAT
The Gallery at Vask
Seating only 14 people, this is an
evolving art space of contemporary
work with an equally creative
62 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Cocktails at Niner Ichi Nana.
Kenneth Cobonpue’s
whimsical crafts.
PHILIPPINES*
gastronomic menu: the first of its
kind in the Philippines. Chef Chele
Gonzalez, having worked with big
names like Arzak and Celler de Can
Roca, unleashes his talent in a menu
that knows no boundaries, taking
inspirations from all his travels
around Asia. Expect dishes with
modernist techniques and hearty
substance. 5F Clipp Center, 11th Ave.
and the corner of 39th St., Bonifacio
Global City, Manila; 63-2/217-6563;
14-course degustation menu P4,900 per
person.
Yakumi at Solaire
Working around seasonal deliveries,
Yakumi offers amazing modern and
traditional Japanese dishes in a bright,
lofty setting in stark contrast to the
rest of Solaire’s casino surroundings.
Dining itself is casual but the main
focus is on the stunning perfection of
their food. Pricey but worth it. 1 Asean
Ave., Entertainment City, Paranaque
City; 63-2/888-8888; solaireresort.com;
dinner for two P4500.
Donosti
Rare in Manila is the restaurant
outside the confines of a mall or strip
development. Donosti, situated on the
ground floor of an office building in
the Fort, with its warm bistro interiors,
vintage photos of the Basque region
and inviting bar, is a cozy haven for
authentic, down-to-earth Spanish
food. Order their juicy baby lamb
chops, best eaten by hand like little
lollipops, and wash it down with an
ice-cold beer pumped fresh from what
Sashimi platter at Yukumi.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F C O S TA P A C I F I C A ; C O U R T E S Y O F N I N E R I C H I N A N A ; C O U R T E S Y O F Y U K U M I ; C O U R T E S Y O F K E N N E T H C O B O N P U E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G A L L E R Y AT V A S K
was described as the Rolls Royce of
taps, and be transported for a moment
to a scene right out of a tapas tavern in
San Sebastian. GF Block 3, Lot 2, 32nd
St., NAC Bldg, Bonifacio Global City;
63-2/ 216-4677; dinner for two P3,500.
SHOP
Kenneth Cobonpue
Cobonpue’s pieces combine traditional
craftsmanship with visionary
design and a touch of playfulness.
This internationally acclaimed
designer curates an amazing space
in an accessible location, a great feat
for his first showroom. Amid the
stunning furniture, there is artwork
from budding contemporary Filipino
artists that complement the ensemble.
Purchases can be shipped anywhere
in the world. GF The Residences,
San Lorenzo Tower, Makati City;
kennethcobonpue.com.
DRINK
Niner Ichi Nana
Backed by big names in Manila’s night
scene, with a hearty bar chow menu
by Chef Rob Pengson and cocktails
crafted by local foodie icon Erwan
Heussaff, it’s no surprise that this bar
was an instant hit from day one. Using
only the freshest ingredients and
steeping their own infusions, it bears
witness to the rise in true blue cocktail
establishments in the city. GF corner
of 32nd Ave. and 7th Ave.; Bonifacio
Global City; 63-91/ 787-6999, drinks for
two P700.
 BHUTAN
BY COMO
Uma by COMO, Paro, is more than a Himalayan lodge offering luxury villas, world-class Bhutanese and international cuisine, yoga
and a COMO Shambhala Retreat. We provide the means to discover a pristine landscape and culture with staff who will curate your
journey from beginning to end. We will lead you into far-flung valleys, with stays at our second lodge, Uma by COMO, Punakha. We
will reveal Buddhism’s Himalayan story, navigating the high mountain passes to take you to the country’s most spectacular historic
sites. In the company of English-speaking guides, we will ensure a COMO luxury experience on hiking, biking and whitewater rafting
trips, teach your children the national sport of archery and introduce you to monks and artisans on intelligently calibrated journeys
instilled with a true spirit of adventure. For reservations, please contact Uma Bhutan on www.comohotels.com/uma/bhutan.
Radar
* BEST OF SINGAPORE *
By Melanie Lee
Common Man
Coffee Roasters. STAY
Park Royal on Pickering
All 367 guestrooms of this award-
winning hotel look out to lush,
four-story sky gardens with reflecting
pools, waterfalls and cascading vertical
greenery. This is Singapore’s first
hotel-in-a-garden, and is built by the
famous WOHA Architects. 3 Upper
Pickering St.; 65/6809-8888;
parkroyalhotels.com; doubles from
S$290.
SHOP
Tyrwhitt General Company
This artisanal boutique with retro flair
sells crafted goods including tableware,
cushions, watches and assorted
artworks. They also hold workshops led
by local craftsmen, with the idea that
things should not just be bought, but
Outside Oxwell & Co. also experienced.
150a Tyrwhitt Rd.; 65/8444-5589;
tyrwhittgeneralcompany.com.
EAT
The Black Swan
This new dining establishment, housed
in a heritage Art Deco building, exudes
1920’s old-school swag. Their
contemporary European menu has
won many foodie fans here, with an
Shaken or stirred at
The Black Swan. oyster bar and house favorites such as
the melt-in-your-mouth baked bone
marrow. The Quadrant, 19 Cecil St.;
65/8181-3305; theblackswan.com.sg;
dinner for two from S$160.
Grub
Located in one of Singapore’s prettiest
suburban parks, Grub offers
wholesomely delicious food that
dodges downtown prices. Their beef
comes from New Zealand and their
popular slow-roasted pork belly comes
from pigs that are fed only barley, wheat
and mountain mineral water—the
Dine in the
park at Grub.
15 M O N T H 2 01 3 T R A V E L+ L E I S U R E
result is divine. Bishan Park 1, 510 Ang
Mo Kio Ave. 1; 65/6459-5743; grub.com.
sg; dinner for two from S$50.
Windowsill in the Woods
There’s nothing quite as charming as a
café with a whimsical fairytale concept
and fresh, crusty pies. Their s’mores
pie, which oozes with milk chocolate
pudding and dark chocolate fudge, is
impossible to resist. 78 Horne Rd.;
65/9004-7827; windowsillpies.sg; tea for
two from S$20.
F R O M TO P : C O U R T ESY O F C O M M O N M A N C O F F EE R OAST ERS; C O U R T ESY O F OX W EL L & C O.; C O U R T ESY O F T H E B L AC K SWA N; C O U R T ESY O F G RU B
DRINK
Oxwell & Co 
With U.K. celeb chef Mark Sargeant and
Aussie celeb bartender Luke Wheaty
helming this shophouse gastrobar, you
know the drinks here will be special.
Their own beer brew, the Oxhorn Lager,
has hints of nutmeg and calamansi,
while their signature gin and tonic
comes on tap. 5 Ann Siang Rd.; 65/6438-
3984; oxwellandco.com; drinks for two
from S$30.
The Tuckshop
This beer bar is the perfect place to
lounge about on alfresco rattan
furniture and play old board games.
About 50 types of craft beer from all
over the world are offered here, but if
you really want to go local, request ice
in your brew. 403 Guillemard Rd.;
65/8511-8102; thetuckshop.com.sg; drinks
for two from S$26.
Common Man Coffee Roasters
There’s plenty of buzz about this new
café, given its tie-up with Australia’s
Five Senses Coffee. Besides espresso-
based drinks, Common Man offers
coffee made by different pour-over
methods such as the V60, Kalita
Wave, Aeropress or the Chemex. 
22 Martin Rd.; 65/6836-4695;
commonmancoffeeroasters.com; coffee
for two from S$12.
Radar
* BEST OF
By Diana Hubbell
EAT
Appia
We can’t decide what we love most about
this family-style trattoria: wood-
roasted meats like the ultra-crisp-
skinned porchetta, or the silky,
handmade pastas. Chef Paolo Vitaletti
flew his mother over from the Eternal
City to help train the kitchen staff, and
Bangkok is smitten with their rustic
Roman cuisine: it’s still one of the
hardest tables to score. 20/4 Sukhumvit
Soi 31, Bangkok; 66-2/261-2056; appia-
bangkok.com; dinner for two Bt2,000.
Opposite Mess Hall
Diners in the know head to this bare-
bones industrial spot across from WTF
Bar & Gallery for a taste of Chef Jess
Barnes’s endlessly inventive small
plates. With buttermilk-battered fried
chicken, croquettes of the day, killer
cocktails, craft beers, regular pop-up
events and now brunch—think
chocolate waffles with passion fruit and
bacon jam—they’re perpetually packed.
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, Bangkok; 66-2/662-
6330; oppositebangkok.com; dinner for
two Bt1,100.
Rocket Coffee bar
This smart new operation from the team
behind the city’s now classic Hyde &
Seek is the perfect place for a lazy,
sun-drenched brunch. The menu is an
atypical blend of locavore and
molecular gastronomy, sometimes in
one dish: take their Benedict, starring
eggs sourced from Northern hill tribes,
Point Yamu views. The specials at Appia.
THAILAND*
flown down once weekly, and then
cooked sous vide. Healthful smoothies
and the many single-origin coffees or
teas match up nicely with the crusty
sourdough baguettes and all manner of
sweets churned out by their on-site
bakery. 149 Sathorn Tai Soi 12, Bangkok;
66-2/635-0404; rocketcoffeebar.com;
lunch for two Bt600.
DRINK
Maggie Choo’s
Oozing equal parts camp and class, this
subterranean cabaret is a throwback to
Suzy Wong-style hedonism. In a
gorgeously detailed retro space, live jazz
plays, cheongsam-clad models preen,
and the city’s trendiest crowd quaffs
cocktails like the HMS Leviathon, a
potent elixir of honeycomb-infused
bourbon and sweet vermouth.
Underneath the Novotel Bangkok Fenix,
Silom, 320 Silom Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/635-
6055; drinks for two Bt560.
Ku Dé Ta
In the most hotly anticipated opening of
the year, this spin-off of Singapore’s
modern legend recently entered
Bangkok’s nightlife scene in decadent—
if not fully finished—fashion. Ku Bar is
warm, low-key, open-plan, while the
Club Lounge is a long garden of
overgrown greenery, round banquettes,
flashing lights and popping bottles. But
these are just two of the planned dozen
restaurants, bars, clubs and private
members’ spaces set to take over two
sky-high floors in the hip-again
Silom-Sathorn neighborhood. Watch
this space. 39th and 40th Floors, Sathorn
Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd.,
Bangkok; 66-2/108-2000; kudeta.com;
drinks for two Bt600.
STAY
Regent Phuket Cape Panwa
This intimate property set high on a
bluff on Cape Panwa is worlds away
from the hordes of tourists in Patong.
The 55-meter infinity pool has a
jaw-dropping view of the Andaman, as
does the Regent Spa. Don’t miss the
contemporary, molecular-tinged
cuisine from Chef Justin Baziuk at The
Grill—the restaurant makes its own
cured meat, cheese, yogurt and truffled
butter. 48 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Tambon
Vichit, Amphur Muang, Phuket;
66-76/200-800; regenthotels.com/
phuket; doubles from Bt7,488.
Point Yamu by COMO
Designer Paola Navone brings an
understated elegance to this tranquil
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F C O M O H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S ; C O U R T E S Y O F A P P I A ; C O U R T E S Y O F R O C K E T C O F F E E B A R
haven overlooking the limestone karst
formations of Phang Nga Bay. The resort
fuses Thai and Italian style both in its
aesthetic, and in its cuisine, which is
showcased in two distinct restaurants.
There’s a strong emphasis on wellness
here, with a top-notch spa offering
everything from shirodhara to
traditional local therapies. Point Yamu,
225 Moo 7, Paklok Thalang, Phuket;
doubles from Bt9,000.
Rocket Coffee Bar.
Radar
* BEST OF
By Lien Hoang
EAT & DRINK
The Hungry Pig
Mmmm… bacon. This too-cute
café serves up pork in droves: on
bagels and baguettes, in salads and
sausages, and of course in your full
English breakfast. 144 Cong Quynh,
Q1, Saigon; 84-8/3836-4533; lunch
for two VND200,000.
Vesper
This sophisticated cocktail bar
along the Saigon River is one of the
few places in the city to serve tapas.
Pop by on a weekend afternoon
and you might get drafted into a
competitive game of corn-hole.
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Saigon;
84-8/3822-9698; drinks for two
VND300,000.
Imagine Café
Intellectuals gather at Imagine
Café for its range of books and its
intimate discussions with writers
and scholars. On the main road to
the airport, it’s an easy stop on your
way into town. 58 Ho Bieu Chanh,
Phu Nhun Dist., Saigon; 84-90/956-
0105; drinks for two VND44,000.
Song Xanh Café
Don’t let this coffee shop’s location
adjacent to the backpacker district
turn you off; the vibe is decidedly
less hedonistic, and more heady.
Social entrepreneurs and activists
gather in the free meeting room,
immersing themselves in the funky,
recycled seating and ornaments.
64 Ho Hao Hon St., Q1, Saigon;
84-8/3838-9900; cafe.songxanh.vn;
drinks for two VND60,000.
STAY
Amanoi
For its first property in Vietnam,
Aman went entirely its own way,
to an unspoiled rural haven an
hour south of Nha Trang. The 36
guest pavilions and villas sprawl
across a jungle peninsula in Nui
Chua National Park, surrounded
by the East Sea and dotted with
impossibly free-standing giant
boulders. Do not miss the gorgeous
68 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
VIETNAM*
Acrobatics at AO Show.
Heady talk at Imagine Café.
The firey and fabulous
Dragon Bridge.
Sophisticated fresh
tapas at Vesper.
Pilates studio or sunrise yoga in the
lakeside sala. Vinh Hy Village, Ninh
Hai District, Ninh Thuan Province;
amanresorts.com; doubles from US$750.
Pullman Saigon Centre
Purple legs protruding from a wall,
mesh bunnies and birds dangling from
the ceiling—the eclectic new Pullman
fuses these funky elements with a
classic ambience, while the floor-
to-ceiling windows brighten up the
joint. 148 Tran Hung Do, Q1, Saigon;
84-8/3914-1489; pullmanhotels.com;
doubles from US$109.
SEE
AO Show
Cirque de Saigon? A great way into the
city’s iconic Opera House is buying
a ticket to AO, an acrobatic mix of
modern dance, traditional music,
and gravity-challenging stunts using
such instruments as bamboo rods and
tightropes. 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1,
Saigon; 84-12/4518-1188; aoshowsaigon.
com; tickets from VND530,000.
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF AO SHOW; COURTESY OF IMAGINE CAFE; COURTESY OF GE T T Y IMAGES; COURTESY OF VESPER
Dragon Bridge
Sure, 2013 was the year of the snake, but
dragons are perennially lucky. Rarely,
though, are they so large, lifelike, and,
well, useful. To celebrate the 38th
anniversary of the Communist capture
of the Central Coast, the Da Nang River
is now spanned by a six-lane bridge in
the shape of a giant, brightly lit dragon.
The structure, which breathes real
fire on the weekends, was built by an
American firm. Talk about scorching
irony. Cau Rong, Danang.
SHOP
Vincom Mega Mall Royal City
The biggest underground shopping
center in Asia has luxury brands and
hundreds of restaurants, of course,
but the defining features are the
indoor water park, and Vietnam’s first
international standard ice rink. No
wonder the owner, Pham Nhat Vuong,
was the first Vietnamese to make
Forbes’ list of billionaires. 72A Nguyen
Trai. Thanh Xuan Dist. Hanoi; 84-
9/4755-6886; royalcity.com.vn. ✚
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SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43

67 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 66 SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 65
68 SINGAPORE S$7.90 ● HONG KONG HK$43 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000
THAILAND THB175 ● INDONESIA IDR50,000 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000
MALAYSIA MYR17 ● VIETNAM VND85,000 9 771906 082018 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 9 771906 082018 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 9 771906 082018
9 771906 082018 MACAU MOP44 ● PHILIPPINES PHP240 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 Tr a ve l a n d L e i s u re A s i a . c o m
BURMA MMK35 ● CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 ● LAOS LAK52,000

01548 M8 06COVER_2013V2 (13).indd 1 5/15/13 1:51 AM

T+L SEA April Covers.indd 1 13/03/2013 18:04
05COVER_2013v2.indd 1 26/06/2013 16:46

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 Strategies

T+L’s

Travel Tech
Awards Cameras that upload straight to Facebook.
Laptops thinner than thumb drives.
Smartphones that listen for your spoken
commands—without the push of a button.
The latest tech products are taking
intuitive design to the next level—and
changing the way we see the world. Here,
our annual list of the year’s most innovative
releases, all road-tested and carry-on-
approved by our tech expert, Tom Samiljan.
Photographed by Jamie Chung

BEST
OVERALL
Our favorites across
five categories.

↑
Headphones
Audio-Technica
ATH-ANC29, ↑ ↑
page 80 Tablets Phones
iPad Mini, HTC One,
page 74 page 82
P R O P S T Y L I S T: B R I A N B Y R N E

Laptops
MacBook Air, ↑
page 76 Cameras
Samsung NX300,
page 78 *Prices throughout are listed in US dollars and may vary by country and
retailer, as well as by mobile phone contract carrier.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 73
Strategies

Tablets
← Sony Xperia
Tablet Z
The glossy, 10.1-inch
touch screen of the
Sony Xperia Tablet Z
is both beautiful, with
a full HD display, and
durable (the glass is
more scratch-resistant
than most). Thanks
to fully sealable inputs,
it’s also water- and
dust-resistant, making
it equally suited for
beach reading or
navigating city streets
on a snowy day. $500,
store.sony.com.
↘ Samsung ATIV TAB 3
The smallest tablet running Windows 8,
the 10.1-inch TAB 3 is as close as you can
get to a handheld laptop. The detachable
keyboard makes it easy to work
on the go, while built-in
SideSync technology lets
you use your tablet’s
screen and keyboard
to type long
e-mails—or
surf the Web—
with your
smartphone’s
connection.
Don’t mistake these sleek multitaskers
for just another entertainment
source—thanks to more built-in
productivity features, tablets are giving
laptops a run for their money.
← Google Nexus 7
With a full-featured version
of Google Maps that stores
data for offline use, a
location-based news feed,
and Google Now’s collection
of travel-friendly functions
(currency exchange rates,
translations and local transit
info, to name a few), this
ultracompact, 7-inch
workhorse could win over
the fiercest Apple loyalists—
even without mention
of its affordable price tag.
$229, google.com.
↓ iPad Mini
Sexy, light, and slim (at just
0.28 inches), the iPad Mini
is an all-around winner.
Its loudspeakers do justice
to movies and TV shows, but

B O T T O M , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F L O G I T E C H ; C O U R T E S Y O F Z A G G ; C O U R T E S Y O F I N N E R G I E
$700, at two inches smaller than
samsung. the flagship model, it is also
com. comfortable to carry as
a navigation tool. Throw in
the growing number of
offerings in the App Store
(900,000-plus at press
time), and there’s little that
this powerhouse can’t do.
$329, apple.com.

BEST
OVERALL

Working Logitech Ultrathin

Touch Mouse In addition to
ZAGGkeys Cover
for iPad Mini
Innergie PocketCell Duo
Charge two devices at once,
Wonders being pocket-size and This backlit Bluetooth without an electrical outlet.
Three tools that can ergonomic, it’s compatible with keyboard doubles $90, myinnergie.com.
turn your tablet into both laptops and certain as an iPad cover.
a portable office. tablets. $70, logitech.com. $99, zagg.com.

74 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Strategies

Laptops
Light enough to carry
BEST
OVERALL
← MacBook Air
It may look like the same slim classic
you know and love, but the latest
MacBook Air delivers nine hours of
battery life, improved performance
and a new operating system with
around town and powerful sophisticated mapping and organizational
enough to outlast any tools. Add state-of-the-art Wi-Fi
technology for more stable connectivity,
long-haul, these laptops and you have the fastest, most reliable
offer big performance in laptop on the market. $999, apple.com.
the smallest of packages.

Panasonic CF-SX2 →
Despite being one of the lightest
high-performance laptops (at a
mere 1.15 kilograms), the SX2 is
packed with convenient features:
a blazing-fast Core i7 processor,
up to 16 hours of battery life and
an all-too-rare DVD drive. It’s also
rugged, with a magnesium-
alloy body that comes in
seven splashy colors.
$2,799,
dynamism.
com.

Toshiba Kirabook →
There’s no need to choose between
work and play when it comes to
this sleek Ultrabook, which is
preloaded with Adobe Photoshop
Elements and Norton Anti-Theft
Security software. We love the
backlit keyboard and USB ports that
charge your gadgets even when
the computer is turned off,
along with the better-than-HD ↖ Lenovo
screen and Harman IdeaPad Yoga 11S
Kardon speakers, which Few convertible laptops
make for exceptional satisfy as both a computer
movie viewing. and a tablet—but the IdeaPad
$1,600, rises to the challenge, thanks
toshibadirect. to its wide keyboard; intuitive,
com. motion-sensitive controls; and
smart design. Simply rotate
the supersharp, 11.6-inch
touch screen to create a flat,
handheld device, or rotate it
into a “V” shape to prop it up
on your seatback tray table.
$649, lenovo.com.
BOT TOM: COURTESY OF GOOGLE

Just The HP Chromebook 11,

which hit shelves in November
Google It but was too new to test at press
time, offers a full suite of
cloud-​based Google apps and
top-notch hardware for less than
$300. This striking second-​
generation model doesn’t skimp
on form or function, with a
16-inch widescreen and digitally
tuned speakers squeezed into
a 1-kilogram white magnesium-
alloy body. Even the charger
warrants applause: the simple
USB cord is refreshingly
lightweight, and it also works
with any Android smartphone.
$279, google.com.

76 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Strategies

1 4

5
2
BEST
OVERALL

1 Nikon Coolpix A
Don’t be fooled by the
small package: this
point-and-shoot has
the same type of
powerful sensor used
2 Pentax K-50
Ideal for active trips,
Pentax’s latest
weatherproof DSLR
has ergonomic dials
for its many advanced
Cameras
These sharpshooters prove that your smartphone can’t
compete when it comes to capturing your travels.
3 Canon Vixia Mini 4 Sony Cyber-Shot 5 Samsung NX300 6 Olympus PEN
No bigger than a deck TX30 While many With 20.3 megapixels E-P5 Underneath its
of cards, this video ruggedized cameras and hybrid autofocus retro styling, this Micro
camera has a 2.7-inch look the part, this for quick, detailed Four Thirds camera
touch screen that flips shock- and water- shots, this mirrorless offers cutting-edge
up so that you can be resistant point-and- camera has the ability features—such as
BOT TOM: COURTESY OF SONY ELECTRONICS

in many DSLR’s. An
optional adapter turns
your smartphone into
a remote control,
making it easy to take
self-portraits from
a distance. $1,100,
nikon.com.
features (from ISO
to depth of field) and
an add-on backup
AA-battery power
supply—all in a
whopping 120 color
combinations. $780,
ricoh-imaging.co.jp
both videographer and shoot is slim and to capture 8.6 snaps ultrafast 1/8000s
on-screen star, as well as discreet, packing in per second, a tilting shutter speeds—that
built-in Wi-Fi for instant 18.2 megapixels, screen for tricky optimize performance
uploading to YouTube. HD video, and 5x angles, and built-in for close-ups, low-light
Also fun: a fish-eye optical zoom, all at Wi-Fi for easy situations and
lens that adds a funky, a great price. $260, uploading to Flickr everything in between.
Instagram-like edge. store.sony.com. or Facebook. $749, $1,000, getolympus.
$300, canon.com. samsung.com. com.

Snap Sony Smartphone Attachable Lens-Style Camera (DSC-QX100)

This accessory—designed in collaboration with high-end lens maker Carl Zeiss—uses a Wi-Fi connection to
to It bring DSLR-like capabilities to your mobile device. With a built-in sensor and 3.6x optical zoom, it turns out crisp
close-ups, impressive low-light performance and 1080p HD video. It’s optimized for use with Sony’s Xperia
smartphones, but a special case lets you use it with Apple or Android devices as well. $500, store.sony.com.

78 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 LEISURE HAS A NEW EXPRESSION
Crimson Resort & Spa Mactan, Cebu’s sprawling landscape allows you
to savor the intimacy you seek in an environment of pure serenity.
From the laid-back to the active, we offer lifestyle experiences so you
can make the most of your holiday at your leisure.

crimsonhotel.com
Seascapes Resort Town, Mactan Island, Lapu-lapu City, Cebu 6015 Philippines
reservations (+63 32) 401 9999 | email info.mactan@crimsonhotel.com
@Crimson_Mactan Crimson Resort and Spa Mactan
A FILINVEST HOTEL | Managed and operated with distinction by FilArchipelago Hospitality, Inc
Strategies

Headphones
The one accessory to pack if you’re looking
for sound quality—or sound sleep.

BEST
OVERALL

1 Creative Labs 2 Audio-Technica 3 Beats

Sound Blaster ATH-ANC29 by Dre Studio
EVO ZxR QuietPoint Beats by Dre’s newly
The high-tech look Noise-Cancelling revamped design—
of these Bluetooth Headphones in four splashy
wireless headphones The top choice colors—goes well
is just a hint at for those who need beyond aesthetics,
the standard-setting to tune out their delivering crisp audio
specs that lie within: seatmates at 6,000 while blocking out
50 mm drivers meters, these sleek everything you
for big sound, active headphones strip don’t want to hear.
noise canceling, away 87 percent of What’s more, the
and a built-in outside sounds USB-rechargeable
processing chip that
lets you adjust your
audio preferences
when noise canceling
is turned on. Even
better, they offer
battery lasts an
impressive 20
hours, long enough
3
straight from your thumping bass and for a flight from
smartphone. $300, clear dialogue at Los Angeles to
BOT TOM: COURTESY OF BOSE

creativelabs.com. a bargain price. Sydney. $300,

$100, shopaudio​ beatsbydre.com.
technica.com.

Sound Bose QuietComfort 20i

These tiny earbuds are every bit as powerful as the best over-ear models, proving surprisingly adept
Off at blocking out noisy airplane neighbors and delivering warm sound on movie dialogue. Bonus: a
built-in mic doubles as a remote for your smartphone, and it’s easy to deactivate the noise-canceling
technology to hear your captain’s PSA. $299, bose.com.

80 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 When it’s right,
you just know

World ’s Best Wedding Venues - 2012 CNN Travel

World’s Most roMAntiC resort - ABOUT.COM

AYANA Resort and Spa Bali | www.ayanaresort.com

RIMBA Jimbaran Bali | www.rimbajimbaran.com
K arang Mas Estate
Jalan K arang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali
T. +62 361 70 2222 | weddings@ayanaresort.com
Strategies

← HTC One
The sleek Android interface offers instant
access to news and social media on your
Moto X → home screen. The camera’s Zoe mode
One of the lets you pull still images from video
smartest hands-free (ideal for group shots). And the built-in
devices on the Beats Audio speakers provide the
market, the Moto X clearest and warmest sound
is constantly listening we’ve ever heard on a phone.
for your spoken $200, htc.com.
commands, from making
calls to setting alarms.
When its sensors detect
that you’re driving, the phone
automatically reads aloud
your incoming e-mails and text BEST
messages, and makes it easy to OVERALL

respond with talk-to-type. Add to

that Google’s sophisticated voice
search, and you’ll almost never
need to push a button. $200,
motorola.com.

← Nokia Lumia 1020

Never agonize over perfectly
framing your shots again:
the best of Windows Phone’s
latest releases features a
standard-setting 41-megapixel
BlackBerry Q10 → camera, with built-in photo
Want the convenience and video tools that beat
of a touch screen and many a point-and-shoot,
the accuracy of a physical even in low-light
keyboard? The Q10 has situations. $200,
both. The software’s nokia.com.
smart, too: a multilingual
predictor simultaneously
checks your spelling in up to
three languages of your choice,
while a nifty substitution tool
learns when (and how) to
expand your shorthand. So long,
auto-correct. $200, blackberry.com.

Phones
BOT TOM: COURTESY OF A PPL E (2)

If there’s one thing this year’s best releases have in common,

it’s their uncanny ability to streamline your life (and travels).

Eyes on Android and Windows

phones may take
budget-conscious
5C and high-end 5S
5S’s new processor,
which yields smart
instance) and the ability
to access a broader
Apple the prize for innovation, have improved cameras navigation functions network of Wi-Fi
but Apple’s latest and battery life—up (knowing you’ve connections, even on
updates don’t to 10 hours’ worth. switched from driving your travels. $99,
disappoint. Both the Particularly great is the to walking, for apple.com.

82 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Deals
Diving in at RIMBA
Jimbaran Bali.
Spa
CHINA
What Intimate Hideaway at
Banyan Tree Chongqing
(banyantree.com). Details Two
nights in a Spring Retreat room.
Highlight A complimentary spa
treatment at one of the local
outdoor hot springs. Cost From
US$554 (US$277 per night),
double, through January 31.
Savings 40 percent.
84 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3
INDONESIA
What Introductory Offer at
RIMBA Jimbaran Bali
(rimbajimbaran.com). Details
Three nights in a Hill Side room.
Highlights One complimentary
50-minute Balinese massage for
two and a US$50 credit. Cost
From US$230 per night, double,
book by December 22. Savings
36 percent.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Island
MALAYSIA
What 21 Days Advance Purchase
at The Danna Langkawi
(thedanna.com). Details A stay in
a Grand Merchant room.
Highlights Complimentary
welcome drinks and shoulder
massages for two upon arrival.
Cost From RM1,159, double,
through December 20, 2014.
Savings 25 percent.
Indonesia
US$230
per night
THAILAND
COURTESY OF RIMBA JIMBAR AN BALI
What Relax & Recharge at Le
Méridien Koh Samui
(lemeridienkohsamui.com).
Details Three nights in a
Verandah suite. Highlights Daily
breakfast and complimentary
Wi-Fi. Cost From US$485
(US$162 per night), double,
through December 23. Savings
33 percent.
Deals

cottage at Shakti 360 Leti. Highlights Learn about local through December 31. Savings
Seasonal Highlights A personalized handicrafts at a painting-studio 30 percent.
nature walk, cooking class session in Ubud; a batik-fabric
VIETNAM
What Festive Offer at Sheraton
featuring local dishes, and visits workshop in Seminyak, Bali; and CAMBODIA
to temples. Cost From a lantern-making class in Hoi An. What Anantara Short Breaks
Saigon (starwoodhotels.com).
US$1,873 (US$468 per night) Cost US$3,582 (US$448 per Special at Anantara Angkor
Details A stay in a Deluxe room.
per person, all-inclusive; book by night), double, through February Resort & Spa (angkor.anantara.
Highlights Complimentary
January 31. Savings 35 percent. 28, 2014. Savings 34 percent. com). Details Two nights in a
internet and complimentary
Deluxe room. Highlights One
access to fitness facilities. Cost
From VND3,200,000, double,
MULTI-COUNTRY VIETNAM signature cocktail per stay, 20
What Art of Design from GHM What Immerse Your Senses from percent discount on dining
through January 5, 2014.
Hotels (ghmhotels.com). Details Six Senses Con Dao (sixsenses. throughout the stay, late
Savings 25 percent.
Two nights each at the Chedi com). Details Two nights in an check-out until 4 p.m. and
Chiang Mai in Thailand; the Chedi Ocean Front Duplex. Highlight A automatic room upgrade if
HONG KONG
Club Tanah Gajah Ubud and the three-hour tour of the island, available. Cost From US$588
What Enchanting Festive
Legian in Bali, Indonesia; and the visiting sites such as the historic (US$294 per night), double,
Holiday at The Excelsior
Nam Hai in Hoi An, Vietnam—for Phi Yen Temple. Cost US$1,100 through December 31. Savings
(mandarinoriental.com/excelsior).
a total of eight nights. (US$550 per night), double, 18 percent.
Details Three nights in a
Superior Side Harbour View
room. Highlights A Premier Deluxe room
Complimentary bottle of at Sheraton Saigon.
sparkling wine and gourmet
chocolate on arrival, plus daily
breakfast for two. Cost From
HK$6,240 (HK$2,080 per night),
double, through January 7, 2014.
Savings 22 percent.

CHINA
What Warm Winter Welcome at
New World Shanghai Hotel
(shanghai.newworldhotels.com).
Details Three nights in a
Superior room. Highlights
Guests receive a 50 percent
discount on the third night, plus
daily complimentary breakfast
and Wi-Fi. Cost From RMB2,250
(RMB750 per night), double,
through February 14. Savings
17 percent.

SINGAPORE
What Festive Merriments at
Grand Copthorne Waterfront
Hotel (milleniumhotels.com.sg).
Details A stay in a Superior
room. Highlights
Complimentary breakfast. Cost
From S$188, double, through
February 8, 2014. Savings Up to
C O U R T E S Y O F S H E R AT O N S A I G O N

40 percent.

CULTURE
INDIA
What Eco Adventure from Shakti
Himalaya (shaktihimalaya.com).
Details Four nights in a private

86 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Point of View

P
iccadilly is empty. After
the torrents of last
evening, the morning
dawned bright, the vaulted
sky filled with high, fat
clouds and rain-following
sunshine that appears to have scoured
the drear from the world. It is
Christmas. I am, of course, in London,
walking the quiet streets of a city many
of whose residents are presumably now
at home awakening to the smell of
bacon and to ziggurats of boxed
presents wrapped in shiny paper.
The city is mine for a moment. Its
broad, bowed avenues, its shuttered
shop fronts, its parks with venerable
oaks seem like the furnishings of an
immense and harmonious ancient
structure, a 1,000-year-old edifice. The
moment feels oddly holy, a word I long
ago ceased to associate with this
particular day. I have come to England
to escape from Christmas. And here, by
happenstance, I have found some of its
essence. A string of days spent in the
company of new and old friends and a
particular loved one has renewed my
spirit, even given me a kind of faith. At
the very least, it has shifted my
perception of Christmas as a holiday to
be outrun at any cost.
And as I walk the lightly occupied
streets it comes clear that it was not so
much a desire to avoid a day that’s held
sacred by billions of Christians as to

Escaping Christmas
flee what any sane person agrees is
months of dinning and relentlessly
commercialized cheer. I came to
London to escape the endless aural
Abandoning the trimmings and trappings of holidays past, Guy Trebay loop of Alvin & the Chipmunks and “I
heads to London to celebrate the season. Saw Mommy Kissing Santa Claus.” ➔

88 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M Illustrated by Peter Arkle

Point of View

This is not the first time I’ve tried.

I’ve ducked out on a holiday I felt was
best appreciated by six-year-olds so
often that I’ve begun to feel part of the
Escape Christmas movement. There
actually is one. Scores of websites exist
that recommend getaways to
destinations like India, where so many
gods are in competition for one’s
attention that the infant Redeemer is
just another face in the crowd.
While on paper this seems
promising, in reality you plan a jaunt
to, say, the Taj Mahal Hotel in New
Delhi and soon enough you encounter
the reality that Christianity is the third
largest religion on the subcontinent.
This becomes clear when an old friend,
a highborn Sikh, e-mails to say that her
daughter will be appearing in her
school’s Nativity pageant. She will be
dressed as “Mother Mary.” Would you
like to attend? There will be a crèche.
In Thailand, as I discovered one
You might, as I have done, try Christmas, you are sure to find a petite
escaping to Thailand at Christmas,
figuring that in the land of the Buddha Thai lounge singer with a voice like a
and sex tourism you might find relief Klaxon at the hotel bar. She will be belting
from an obligatory annual viewing of
Frank Capra’s It’s a Wonderful Life. You out a phonetic version of ‘Feliz Navidad’
would be mistaken. In Thailand, as I
discovered one Christmas, every wonderful and companionable Currier to some Christian country, where I
half-decent hotel features a tree in the & Ives holidays with family and among might float anonymously among the
lobby, beneath it a stack of Potemkin friends. I have decked halls, stuffed tree-trimmers and last-minute
packages fastened with shiny bows. turkeys, gone on slightly drunken shoppers and treat the holiday and its
You are also sure to find a petite Thai rounds of caroling in sleighs drawn by customs with the bemused fascination
lounge singer with a voice like a Klaxon horses yoked with jingle bells. I have one might bring to some charming but
at the bar. She will be belting out a succumbed to full-blown seasonal culturally obscure event.
phonetic version of “Feliz Navidad.” madness, resuscitating childhood I did this first in Bavaria where,
Perhaps this is the place to mention Christmases with the demented accompanied by a pal, I settled into the
that my ambivalence about the holiday intensity of a Disney Imagineer. Mandarin Oriental, Munich, a place of
is not antireligious. Even as a lapsed The nadir was the year I bought a snug rooms, wide beds, fat down
believer, I can be moved by the tale of lush Fraser fir so large it took two coverlets and a lobby tree surrounded
the flight into Egypt, the lone figures deliverymen to get it into my by bow-tied boxes from Bulgari. Even
in search of lodging, the manger kept apartment, and decorated the the weather conspired to complete the
warm by beasts with steaming flanks, behemoth with hundreds of ornaments clichéd scenario, and near nightfall on
the guiding star, the miracle itself. accumulated over the decades. For a Christmas Eve, an armada of clouds
Rather, it originates in an effort to week I took to lying on the floor every sailed across an otherwise clear sky
avoid the freighted emotional longings evening and gazing up through the and precipitated onto the medieval
of the season, its welter of muddled lighted branches in a kiddie swoon. beer halls and famous Glockenspiel a
expectations, the office parties, the Then the tree dried out, of course, and confectionary dusting of snow.
candy canes and eggnog, the you know how that story ends. I took to visiting various other
consumerism run amok. It was then that the idea first western European capitals at
It is not that my lot in life has been occurred to me that I could enjoy Christmas, this past year choosing
to find a lump of coal in a stocking Christmas better when it was someone London in the hope that the Anglicans’
come Christmas. I have enjoyed else’s. I conceived a notion of traveling restraining influence might temper the

90 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
worst, noisiest and gaudiest elements of the season. I
billeted myself at 51 Buckingham Gate, a hotel where—
as an English actor friend explained—temperamental
Hollywood artistes tend to lodge while promoting their
films. I spent five indulgent days there, wandering the
city’s blessedly depopulated precincts; visiting the
Orientalist madhouse that was the Holland Park
studio dwelling of the Victorian artist Frederic
Leighton; taking the Tube to another little-visited gem,
the Dulwich Picture Gallery; dropping in to the
subterranean Portobello Road arcade called the
Admiral Vernon Antique Market where the
antiquarians with their moth-eaten cardigans and
crooked toupees seem every bit as odd as the
fascinating old oddments they sell.
I made my usual beeline to Chelsea and John
Sandoe (Books) Ltd., an independent bookseller where
24,300 volumes, are stacked wall-to-wall and floor-to-
ceiling, in places two deep on the shelves. I acquired for
myself several presents, among them Letters from
London and Europe, by Giuseppe Tomasi di
Lampedusa, the Anglophile Sicilian aristocrat and
genius whose novel, The Leopard, must rank among
the finer literary achievements of the 20th century.
The view from my hotel window was of some
housing blocks set behind Buckingham Palace. The
cozy interior landscape was of a bed heaped in hillocks
of books with, on a side table, a glass of Chablis and a
tin of ginger cookies. It was the kind of self-indulgent
holiday you might have dreamed of in childhood.
As a concession to the religious centerpiece of the
season, I took a taxi on a drizzly evening to midnight
mass at the Temple Church. It was pleasant enough,
though the choristers seemed bored, and when the
hymns and homily had ended, I ducked through the
gates and walked back to the hotel, arriving in the first
hours of Christmas morning to flop into bed.
In place of the paranoia or creeping dread I
sometimes experience at this time of year, I felt
contentment. Before leaving home I had ticked off the
names on my lists, posted presents and sent Christmas
cards, and it cheered me to imagine friends and family
back home enacting familiar rituals. It was not
displeasing to know I would be spared the white meat
versus dark meat debate, the toasts and the yawning
empty hours between Christmas lunch and a late-
night turkey sandwich eaten in the light of an open
fridge. In a few hours I would occupy a coveted table at
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, toasting the holiday
with friends over a delectably unseasonal meal of fish
that was a Christmas present from me to me. And in
the meantime, I could walk around London as if in an
empty museum, taking in the momentary stillness
that struck me as the most wonderful and
unanticipated gift. ✚
 December 2013

In This Issue

94 25 Weekend
Getaways
112 Should You Trust
TripAdvisor?
116 Gaya Island
124 Maldives, and
the Wild Asia
Responsible
Tourism Awards
IA N L LOY D N EU BAU ER

132 Vanuatu

Ring of fire, on
Vanuatu, page 132.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 93
 25 Weekend
Getaways
ASIA’S CITIES ARE SOME OF THE MOST MADCAP AND ELECTRIC IN
THE WORLD, MAKING THEM BOTH ENERGIZING AND, WE ADMIT IT,
EXHAUSTING. LUCKILY, YOU NEEDN’T TRAVEL MORE THAN FOUR HOURS
FROM SO MANY OF OUR METROPOLISES TO FIND FRESH AIR, SEA
BREEZES, PORTALS TO TIMES-PAST AND GREAT GATHERING SPOTS
FOR GROUPS OF FRIENDS. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITES.
 From
BANGKOK

MANDALAY, BURMA
Rudyard Kipling’s poem The Road to
Mandalay etched the eastern town
into the Western psyche, but the
city’s sleepy charm requires a bit of
legwork today. Hop the direct flight
from Bangkok (airasia.com) in the
afternoon and arrive in time for that
emblematic Burma photo at U Bien
Bridge with its iconic silhouettes of
monks at dusk. Hotel Red Canal
(hotelredcanal.com; US$290) is a
sanctuary in the city, but in dry
season, escape the dust bowl and
trace the colonial ghost of George
Orwell to Maymyo, a hill station an
hour’s drive east that, under British
rule, was a retreat for top brass
escaping Rangoon’s humidity and
heat. For a simulacrum of their
high-brow getaways, check in to
Hotel Pyin Oo Lwin (hotelpyinoo
lwin.com; US$125). And if you really
want to follow historic footsteps,
return by train to Mandalay—part of
a journey romanticized by Paul
Theroux in The Great Railway
Bazaar: By Train Through Asia. ➔
A ARON JOEL SANTOS

The romance of
Mandalay remains
etched on our psyche.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 95
 From
BANGKOK Kwai River Bridge.

KANCHANABURI
A sleepy nook a few hours’ drive west of Bangkok—and clear of the beeline most travelers make for either the southern beaches or the northern
mountains—harbors an unadulterated tranquility. With a drier climate, Kanchanaburi is set on the historic Kwai River Bridge, a shrine for
World War II history buffs. To really immerse yourself in the area’s serenity, take a long-tail boat ride upriver to the Float House River Kwai
(thefloathouseriverkwai.com; Bt3,528). Be serenaded to sleep by the gurgling river beneath you, and, come daytime, let it carry away your city
stresses while you lounge with a book in your hand.

DOI SAKET

F R O M T O P : N A R O N G S A K N A G A D H A N A ; © Y O N G K I E T/ D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F R A B E A N G P A S A K T R E E H O U S E R E S O R T
Well-pedigreed
Prachuap Khiri Khan. Chiang Mai is known for ambling atmosphere and ethnic diversity, but its true treasures
lie in the nearby surrounds. One trove of culture and beauty is Doi Saket. Getting there
requires a 70-minute flight to Chiang Mai plus a smidge of a drive, but you’ll be rewarded
with dense jungle and sweeping landscapes that impose a total timeout. Thais flock to
Wat Doi Saket, built in 1112, for its elaborate murals; after your culture fix, head for the
hot springs or go hot-air ballooning. Get among the foliage Tarzan-and-Jane-style at
Rabeang Pasak Tree House Resort (facebook.com/CMTreehouseResort; Bt1,400),
which is suspended in the canopy of remote protected forest. Or, unwind at Soulmates
Retreat (soulmates-retreat.com; Bt2,800)—it’s perched over a verdant-season vista of the
electric-green rolling hills just north of town, and lets you do nothing but relax.

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

No matter how much we love the islands,
we’ll let you in on a secret: the mainland of
Thailand boasts some of the country’s best
coastline. You couldn’t conceive of a better
pedigree than Prachuap Khiri Khan, whose
powdery sands were first put on the map by
the Thai Royal family. The expansive
shoreline provides space and solitude for a
range of coastal activities from navel
contemplation, for the lethargic, to kite
surfing, for the more ambitious. Many
ex-urbanites have made the seaside stretch of
coast their new home, opening up venues
such as La a Natu Bed & Bakery Resort
(laanatu.com; Bt4,488). Bringing design
sensibility and big-city sophistication to the
area is X2 Kui Buri (x2resorts.com/resorts/
kui-buri, Bt4,790), whose pool villas are Rabeang Pasak
perfect self-contained pamper pods for a Tree House Resort.
weekend... or longer. —r i c h a r d m c l e i s h

*Hotel prices throughout are starting rates

96 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M for double occupancy, unless otherwise noted.
 Drifting at dawn
down the Li River.

From
HONG KONG

GUILIN, CHINA
Roaming water buffalo, emerald rice paddies and
drifting bamboo rafts… the rustic river scenes
back-dropped by the dramatic limestone karsts
of Guilin are reached by a 90-minute flight from
Hong Kong (dragonair.com; hongkongairlines.
com). Take in vistas that have inspired artists
for centuries on-board the Li River Cruise
from Guilin to lovely Yangshuo; there, at the
rustic Yangshuo Li River Retreat (li-river-
retreat.com; RMB428), you can take a dip in
the Li, or choose the more remote Yangshuo
Mountain Retreat (yangshuomountainretreat.
com; RMB769). After refueling at one of the
many cafés in and around Yangshuo’s West
Street—try Cloud 9 for local delicacies such as
beer fish, or the Mood Food Energy Café for
sourdough bread and homemade jams—escape
E U R A S I A /G E T T Y I M A G E S

the backpacker crowd by pedaling out to the

surrounding villages (bikeasia.com one-day
tours for RMB152, or self-hire for around RMB30)
and say ni hao to the locals. Keep the adrenalin
pumping by scaling the karsts, Krabi-style
(karstclimber.com). —h e l e n d a l l e y
 From
KUALA LUMPUR

LANGKAWI
For stressed-out city slickers,
this laid-back island an hour’s
flight from Kuala Lumpur
(malaysiaairlines; airasia.com)
and at the periphery of Peninsular
Malaysia’s northwestern coast
is fast-becoming a popular place
to relocate. Case in point: former
radio executive turned resort
owner Karen Bahrin and her sister
Karina, whose 12-room property
La Pari-Pari (laparipari.com;
RM250) melds their cosmopolitan
outlook with the island’s demand
for chic, minimalist and affordable
places to stay. Besides hanging out
at the beach, which is a 10-minute
stroll away, guests are encouraged
to explore the island on bicycle—the
excellent roads are a breeze to pedal.
Take a day trip to the mangrove
forests in the Kilim Nature Park
(langkawimangrovetours.com),
where you’ll encounter a cast of
local inhabitants including lively
macaques, stealthy monitor lizards
and the soaring brown eagles from
which the island gained its name.

DARREN SOH

Pantai Cenang
beach, Langkawi.
 IPOH
Former tin-mining hub Ipoh, a two-hour trip
from the capital by road or rail (ktmb.com.
my), is showing new polish—particularly
in Old Town, where late-19th century
shophouses like converted flash-packer
residence Sekeping Kong Heng (sekeping.
com; RM250), the town’s first shiny haven of
hipness, line the broad streets. Previously
a ramshackle boarding house, the property
accommodated Chinese opera troupes back
in the 1950’s and 1960’s, and still looks as if it
hasn’t quite shrugged off its bohemian past.
Amble down the adjacent alley, and you’ll
find Thean Chun coffee shop (73 Jln. Bandar
Bijih Timah; lunch for two RM20). Join the
lunch crowds that come here for bowls of flat
rice noodles in a tasty chicken and prawn
broth; Chinese-style pork skewers; and
Hokkien delicacy popiah, fresh and
deep-fried rice-flour spring rolls. At
The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat
(thebanjaran.com; RM1,350), a luxury
resort neighboring a cluster of ancient
limestone hills, you can relax and take the
cure in Ipoh’s famed hot springs. Or if you
prefer aquatic adventure, the sleepy town of
Gopeng, a 16-kilometer drive away, attracts
whitewater rafting and kayaking enthusiasts
(nomadadventure.com) to the Kampar River,
flowing with 22 Grade Two and Three rapids.

Rafting the
Kampar River.
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F N O M A D A D V E N T U R E ; N I C O L A P A LTA N I / G E T T Y I M A G E S

A mother orangutan and

her baby in Sarawak.

KUCHING
The Chinese immigrant heritage of melting pot Kuching is best displayed at The Junk
(60-82/259-450; dinner for two RM200) a restaurant/exhibition space for antiques and
curios, located on one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares, Wayang Street. After
your 90-minute flight (malaysiaairlines.com; airasia.com), the Pullman Kuching
(pullmankuching.com; RM250), near the historic Sarawak River, is a plush base for your
East Malaysian adventure: On one day, hit the beaches at Santubong, a 45-minute drive
from town, and go porpoise- and dolphin-spotting; on another, head inland to the
Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (sarawakforestry.com)—accessible by bus and taxi from
the city center—a sanctuary for orangutans and other injured and orphaned animals.
Plan your visit during the twice-daily feeding times, when rehabilitated orangutans
return from the wild for their bounties of fruits and bottled milk. —m a r k l e a n

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 99
 From
MANILA

TAAL LAKE
With a spectacular view of Taal Volcano floating on the glassy lake, a multitude of farm-to-
table restaurants, boutique hotels and inns, Tagaytay, only 90 minutes by car (manilastay.com;
packaged roundtrip rates inclusive of car, driver and fuel from P6,500), is Manila’s No. 1 getaway
spot. Go sailing on the flat waters or, for the more adventurous, rent a boat to wakeboard (sailing.
org.ph). Have lunch and a dreamy afternoon massage at Sonya’s Garden (sonyasgarden.com;
all-you-can-eat lunch for two P1,366; one-hour signature massage P879), a shabby-chic haven of
flowers and organic herbs, then melt into the evening with cocktails and dinner at Antonio’s
(antoniosrestaurant.ph; dinner for two P3,500). Soft lighting, old-world charm, vintage furniture
and cutlery all nestled amid overgrown greenery make the perfect backdrop for the excellent
classic gourmet cuisine. Snuggle in at the English cottage-style Discovery Country Suites
(discoverycountrysuites; P8,500) or, for the modern and glam, The Boutique Bed & Breakfast
(theboutiquebnb.com; P5,600).

Morning in
Calatagan.

CALATAGAN
Gentle rolling hills, mango groves,
sprawling ranches and a seaside
with the setting sun: Calatagan can
be best described as part-Hamptons,
part-Santa Barbara. It’s a spot

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F A N T O N I O ’ S ; A G U S T I N R A F A E L C . R E Y E S /G E T T Y I M A G E S
where Manila’s upper crust have
spectacular weekend homes that
put many local resorts to shame.
You can play that game too, by
taking the two-hour drive from the
capital, renting your own serviced
villa for a weekend with friends,
barbecuing by the pool and sipping
some cold rosé. Along with 12 of your
favorites, take over Puesto del
Sol (puestodelsol.com; P5,880), and
enjoy its 25-meter lap pool, giant
Jacuzzi and spa services—though
the three villas are available
separately as well. Arm yourself
with some great music, books and
board games, then pass by Säntis
Delicatessen (werdenberg.com)
en route on the highway in Cavite
Old-world charm to purchase some prosciutto, Brie
at Antonio’s. and wine, plus some fine steaks and
sausages to slap on the grill.

100 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 The Ruins
stand majestic
in Bacolod.

BACOLOD
Deliciously languid Bacolod is a one-hour flight (philippineairlines.com) and a step back in time, into a
world of sugar farmers and plantation living, where nothing is more important than good food, good
H E C T O R J O S E P H L U M A N G/G E T T Y I M A G E S

friends and good rum. Have coffee by The Ruins (theruins.com.ph), a beautiful garden where the bones
of an old mansion stand majestic. Hotel choices are slim but L’Fisher (lfisherhotelbacolod.com; P4,500) is
tried and trusted. Stay at their new Chalet wing for fresher, more modern rooms. Standing proud amid the
rustling sugarcane is Balay Negrense (balaynegrense.com), the Gaston Family Ancestral Home left just
as it was, with the dishes still set for a decadent banquet. Speaking of dining, Negrense food is a rich mix of
Filipino and Spanish heritage; Bacolodians are proud of it and will consistently offer you things to eat—an
offer rude to refuse, so do not come on a diet. Instead, treat yourself to sweet rich snacks like napoleones or
piaya (virgieshomemade.com) in the afternoon, then for dinner, indulge in the local specialties, much of
which is inspiringly fresh seafood. Have some grilled diwal (angel wing clams) or kilawin (local ceviche).
For a heartier meal, don’t miss the charcoal-grilled, bright atsuete-painted Chicken Inasal. Dip it in some
tangy, sweet sinamak (sugarcane vinegar). Most importantly: eat with your hands.—s t e p h a n i e z u b i r i
 From
PHNOM PENH

KEP
Until history intervened, Kep was once the halcyon playground sandpit of the elite. Nowadays, the sleepy seaside town
nestled on Cambodia’s coastal border with Vietnam is littered with colonial remnants of decadence that hint at the
country’s checkered past. Once-grand villas lie in decay among new buildings—such as the modernist, minimalist
Knai Bang Chatt resort (knaibangchatt.com; US$140), filled with natural, local and antique furnishings—that cater
to the revamped interest in the town. The sweeping sunsets and fresh seafood (available in heaps at the crab market and
elsewhere) are enough of a reason to make the three-hour drive from the capital, but we suggest day-tripping to Rabbit
Island to find the best of the beaches, or dropping by the abandoned King Sihanouk’s Palace that overlooks Kep
Beach. Kampot pepper was for a time the most prized variant of the seasoning in the world and present on every Parisian
restaurant table—shipped all the way from places like the picturesque pepper plantations at Phnom Voir (free
tours offered by The Vine Retreat; thevineretreat.com), a 20-minute drive from town. — r . m .

A ARON JOEL SANTOS

Kep’s coastal
sunset.

120 N O V E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 Borobudur is the
world’s largest
Buddhist
archaeological site.

From
JAKARTA

MALANG
Five hundred meters above sea
level and a 90-minute flight from
Jakarta, this city was once the cool-
climate getaway for Dutch colonials
longing for reprieve from the
stifling urban density. In keeping
with that moneyed tradition,
tycoon Anhar Setjadibrata houses
44 guest rooms, as well as an
astounding collection of Javanese
antiques such as Chinese street
theater puppets, in his Hotel Tugu
Malang (tuguhotels.com/malang;
US$130). Besides boasting a military
museum, colonial architecture and
a botanical garden, Malang also
looks out on the dramatic Mount
Bromo volcano (mountbromotour.
com), which you can visit via a two-
hour trip by car. However, if you
prefer more laid-back sightseeing,
just hire a driver to take you around
Malang’s hills, which are peppered
with apple orchards, tea plantations
and dairy farms.
F R O M L E F T: © N O P P A K U N / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; I R Y N A R A S C O / D R E A M S T I M E

SEMARANG
The enchanting capital of Central Java, Semarang, has a mix of Dutch colonial buildings,
kampongs (small village houses) and Chinese shophouses. However, its most compelling holiday
hotspot comes in the form of the mountainside MesaStila Resort (mesahotelsandresorts.com;
US$280), the former Losari Spa Retreat and Coffee Plantation 90 minutes outside of town. Not
only is it surrounded by eight stunning volcanoes, lush tropical jungle and a coffee plantation,
this resort also offers specialized health retreats to rejuvenate your body with organic local
cuisine, authentic Turkish Hammam baths, and an array of recreational activities including
mountain biking, Javanese dance and pencak silat (Indonesian martial arts). Since Semarang
is just an hour’s flight from Jakarta (garuda-indonesia.com), you should be able to fit in a short
Mount Bromo road trip to the impressive unesco World Heritage Site Borobudur (borobudurexcursion.com), a
at sunrise. 9th-century temple that is also the world’s largest Buddhist archaeological site with more than
500 images of Buddha. —m e l a n i e l e e

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 103
 From
SAIGON

CON DAO
A ghost town, this wee islet in the
South China Sea once housed a
notorious French-colonial then
Vietnamese-Communist penal
colony; the spirit of Nguyen Thi
Sau, a teenage girl martyred on
the altar of national liberation
is said to still roam the rural
lands. Jittery fliers might get a
different kind of fright landing
on the super-short ocean-
bounded runway after the quick
prop-plane flight from Saigon
(vietnamairlines.com)—but it’s
worth it for the somber look at
this powerful history, as well
as the more uplifting activities
of snorkeling, Hobie Cat sailing
and fresh-seafood gorging. The
knockout, rustic-chic, all-pool
villa Six Senses Con Dao
(sixesenses.com; US$670) sprawls
a seemingly interminable flat
beach and, at low-tide, you
can wade into the crazy-clear, Traditional fishing
bathwater-warm ocean calf-deep on Con Dao island.
for half a kilometer.

Beach style at
DALAT
The Sanctuary.
This beyond-green, chill (in both senses of
the word) mountain town 1,500 meters above
sea level and a 60-minute flight from Saigon
is the quintessential colonial hill station:
centered on a lake and surrounded by

C LOC K WISE FROM TOP: A A RON JOEL SA N TOS (2); COURTESY OF SA NCTUA RY RESORT COMMUNIT Y HO TR A M
mountains of fir trees, vineyards, orchards
and farms, all of which you can admire from
above in the lengthy cable-car gondolas.
Check-in old school to Ana Mandara Villas
(anamandara-resort.com; VND1,864,351), a
smattering of turreted mini-chateaux with
claw-foot tubs and fireplaces for those cool
nights. The grande dame Dalat Palace
(dalatplace.vn; VND2,750,000) serves spot-
on high-tea and is smack in the center of
town, giving you easy access to the eccentric
Gaudi-esque Crazy House tree house/
jungle gym, the adorable lake-top swan
pedal-boats, and the Dalat Palace Golf
Club, Vietnam’s oldest and loveliest 18 holes.
HO TRAM
—j e n i n n e l e e - s t . j o h n ➔
Now usurping kite-surfing capital Mui Ne’s grip on the hearts of Saigon-dwellers needing
a road-trippable beach, Ho Tram (a three-hour drive away) has so far managed to stay
rustic and under-the-radar—no small feat considering the opening this year of The
Grand (thegrandhotramstrip.com; VND3,579,000), the country’s first Vegas-style casino
and resort. After a bit of glitz and gambling—and, with a Greg Norman-designed course
set to open in January, golfing—overload, head back to the stunning Southern California-
style four-bedroom manse you and 10 pals rented for the weekend. Never has Vietnam
seen a more aptly named private community than The Sanctuary (sanctuaryresidences.
com.vn; villas from VND11,865,000 per night), which sits on a long, clean, hawker-free
beach. The front walls of all the villas accordion open onto their private pools, so
everyone can do their thing and still stay together: rock out or relax to the sea breezes, jet-
ski or banana boat out on the ocean, grill up steaks you brought from Saigon and seafood Dalat Palace.
you bought in the village market. What better way to bond with your besties?

104 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 From
Six Harmonies SHANGHAI
pagoda towers
over West Lake.
HANGZHOU
Just after sunrise, with elderly
Chinese doing their tai chi and
couples ballroom dancing beneath
willow trees, the sound of a Chinese
flute fills the calm air. This is China,
so it must be a recording. But no,
an anonymous flautist plays, the
music echoing out from a lakeside
pagoda through stands of bamboo,
and plum and peach trees. West Lake
on a summer’s morning is a scene
straight out of a Chinese scroll.
The timelessness and tranquility
of the setting are perfect antidotes
to the rush of modern life—just 45
minutes away by high-speed train
(ctrip.com). Arched stone bridges,
tea plantations and leafy strolls
here on the western end of the
lake transport you to another era.
So too do the classic, comfortable
stylings of the Four Seasons
Hangzhou (fourseasons.com/
hangzhou; RMB2,700), where the
menu at Jin Sha restaurant covers
Shanghainese, Cantonese and
local cuisine, as well as dynamite
fusion fare such as smoked egg with
sturgeon caviar, mint crystal tofu,
and braised pork with black truffle
in soya sauce, and sautéed peas with
olive oil.

MOGANSHAN
A favored getaway for Shanghai’s expat residents a
century ago, the mountain retreat of Moganshan has
come back into its own in the past decade. See China
Cuckoo, by British author Mark Kitto, for more on the
outpost’s history and his experience reinvigorating
a stately old home on the mountain. Today, three

F R O M T O P : © C H U Y U/ D R E A M S T I M E .C O M ; B E N M I L L E R /G E T T Y I M A G E S
stone manors that he and his wife renovated serve
as the anachronistic Moganshan Houses 23,
25 and 2 (moganshanhouse23.com; RMB650).
Meanwhile, eco-resort Naked Stables Private
Reserve (nakedretreats.cn; Tree Top villas from
RMB2,600 a night for two weekdays or RMB3,200 a
night for two weekends, minimum of four guests) is
the address attracting wealthy weekend guests. Its
villas feature everything you wouldn’t expect from
China: energy efficiency, eco-friendly construction
and a sustainability-education program. Moganshan
is an outdoorsy destination worthy of an Instagram
gallery—hiking and biking trails through bamboo
and pine forests, the distant hills clothed in dense
woodlands, and tea plantations making this as
different from Shanghai, a three-hour train and car Tea fields of
ride away, as any visitor could ever imagine. Moganshan.
—c h r i s t o p h e r k u c wa y ➔

106 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 From
SINGAPORE

BATAM, INDONESIA
Ignore its common misperception as Bintan’s poorer island-resort cousin;
Batam, just a 45-minute ferry ride (wavemaster.com.sg) from Singapore, has
plenty of luxury and recreation, as well as a fascinating historical footnote. The
sparkling white, upscale Montigo Resort (montigoresorts.com; S$330) has
plush villas offering uninterrupted panoramic views of the South China Sea.
It also houses the hippest party spot in the island—Tiggo, a bar with private
poolside enclaves, open-air gazebos and creative cocktails. If you’re looking
for sea sports, outlet shopping and nature trails, Batam will not disappoint.
But a unique perspective can be had at the striking Barelang Bridge, which
is actually six suspension bridges connecting the isles of Batam, Rempang and
Turi Beach, Galang. The last was a Vietnamese refugee camp from 1979 to 1996, and makes
Batam. for a haunting tourist stop: see the former detention room and UN refugee
agency, along with household artifacts left behind by the boatpeople.

LOMBOK, INDONESIA
“Unspoiled Bali” is a frequent Central Malacca is
and apt description for Lombok, a unesco World
a relatively untouched island a Heritage site.
three-hour flight (silkair.com)
from Singapore. Heading out to the
gorgeous, powder-white beaches
of Gili Islands, where no cars or
motorbikes are allowed, provides
plenty of opportunities to wind
down (it’s always a good sign when
wild sea turtles choose to lay their
eggs here). The Lombok Lodge
(thelomboklodge.asia; S$465) is
all about stylish discretion with
just nine luxury lodges designed
in soothing shades of gray and
cream by famous Italian architect
Vittorio Simoni. However, if you
prefer to rough it for a few days,
then trekking to Mount Rinjani

F R O M T O P : D E M R O M E R O /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; W A N N A P H A N A W AY O N ; TAT YA N A K I L D I S H E V A / G E T T Y I M A G E S
(lombokoutdoors.com), Indonesia’s
second-highest volcano, will
provide a scenic respite with caves,
sulfur lakes and, of course, that
glorious mountaintop view to
invigorate the soul.

MALACCA, MALAYSIA
With its hybrid influence of Portuguese, British, Malay, Indian and Chinese cultures, the center
of Malaysia’s colorful heritage town of Malacca—a three-hour bus ride from Singapore (easibook.
com)—has been marked as a unesco World Heritage Site. Soak in its history by staying at The
Majestic (majesticmalacca.com; RM450), a 54-room boutique hotel in a restored 1920’s Chinese
mansion with retro mosaic flooring, 1960’s standalone bathtubs and complimentary historical
tours. Of course, there’s a mélange of mouthwatering food in Malacca, and the best way to sample
its local delicacies such as chicken rice balls, pineapple tarts and gula melaka chendol (shaved ice
Atop Mount
with palm sugar syrup and coconut milk) is to saunter down the Jonker Walk Night Market
Rinjani.
(Jln. Heng Jebat, Chinatown). Even gluttony gets you a heritage fix: the quaint shophouses that
line Jonker Walk date all the back to the 19th and early 20th centuries. —m . l . ➔

108 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 From
TOKYO

IZU PENINSULA
A rugged protrusion of earthquake-riddled rock that
plunges into the Pacific Ocean below central Honshu,
Izu Peninsula is just far enough away from Tokyo—two
hours by train (jreast.co.jp/e; ¥4,400)—to thwart most
of the weekend hoards fleeing the city. It brags a craggy
coastline that’s an inspiring setting for a sunset onsen.
While there is plenty of fresh seafood from nearby
fisheries on offer, and scuba diving for the super keen,
the main draw of the peninsula is its volcanic water flow
sourced from the depths of the fiery earth below. Stay
The Azusagawa River
in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese guesthouse such as
flows through the
Arcana Izu (arcanaresorts.com; ¥41,500), for the full
Kamikochi highlands.
onsen experience and learn how to unlock and engage
this ancient Japanese form of relaxation, socialization
and seduction. MATSUMOTO
The breakneck neon-infused circuitry of Tokyo offers a lifetime of
entertainment, but Matsumoto in central Honshu rewards visitors with
an experience closer to Japan’s cultural core. Set at the eastern end of the
Japanese Alps, accessible by fast-train (jreast.co.jp/e; ¥6,200) or bus (keio-bus.
com, in Japanese only; ¥3,400), its mild climate lets you comfortably enjoy the
ink-painting mountain-scape and take in sites like Matsumoto Castle, the
majestic Myojin wooden bridge, and Daoi Wasabi Farm, the country’s
largest. But most visitors venture further afield to blaze the spectacular
hiking trails at the Kamikochi highland or the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine
Route, which shows off its scenery via cable cars, funiculars and several other
modes of transport. Take to the waters drawn from the nearby Asama hot
springs at the Kai Matsumoto resort (global.hoshinoresort.com; ¥52,000).
Izu’s craggy
coast. Or: a stay in the The Shining-esque Ougatou Hotel (ougatou.jp, in Japanese
only; ¥13,650) completes any visit to this remote and mystic town. —r . m .

F R O M T O P : A A R O N R E K E R P H O T O G R A P H Y/G E T T Y I M A G E S ; I P P E I N A O I /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; G V D P R O / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M
From
TAIPEI

SUN MOON LAKE

Chiang Kai-shek used to mix
it up with heads of state at Sun
Moon Lake, Taiwan’s largest
body of fresh water, in the
foothills of the island’s lush
central mountains. His bastion
of gnashing civility has been
turned into The Lalu (thelalu.
com.tw; T$570), a minimalist
charcoal granite, iron, steel and
teakwood hotel that walks a fine
line between hip modernism and
rich Taiwanese design. Clamber
through Chinese fir forests and
a tea plantation to the summit
of Jiji Dashan. The view of the
Jiufen’er and Houjian Mountains
will make you feel a world—not
just a three-hour drive (private
car arranged by The Lalu, T$220;
public bus T$9)—away from
Taipei. So too will the excellent
Thao aboriginal restaurants on
the lake, where fatty wild pork
with bamboo shoots and braised
Overlooking
Sun Moon Lake. wild deer are the best bets.
—c a i n n u n n s ✚

110 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
strangers
THE ADVICE OF

Sifting good intel from poor counsel in i l l u s t r at e d b y

today’s tech-savvy travel world is wa s i n e e c h a n ta ko r n

increasingly difficult. Is TripAdvisor

helping? b y r i c h a r d m c l e i s h
 he best travel experiences are often the rewards of well-
timed advice. The whisper of an undiscovered beach in
Sumatra, of a life-changing eco-retreat in Borneo, of the best
pho shop in Saigon—it’s the priceless information that can
make or break a trip. ‘Give me all the advice I can get,’ says the
smart traveler. But from whom?
We’ve been interested in other people’s takes on travel from the
times of the earliest explorers, who put observations of
their global journeys to paper—by the turn of the 18th
century, such voyage-voyeurism made Captain James
Cook’s diaries best-sellers—but most of their readers would
never leave their home shores. Travel agencies appeared when
the smart set took to the seas in the late 1800’s. In our modern era, the
more sophisticated travelers knew to take their cues from word-of-
mouth musings. Then trail-blazing Tony and Maureen Wheeler
changed the game in the 1970’s with their Lonely Planet guidebook
series that spawned a fresh generation of enthusiasts, captured
succinctly in Alex Garland’s backpacker manual, The Beach. Now the
new generation of travelers—couchsurfers, hashtaggers or
otherwise—is looking to technology for inspiration and advice.
Enter TripAdvisor, the travel-advice site that collectively receives
260 million unique visitors a month and made US$762 million in
revenue last year. Started in 2000, the site features reviews of
everything from hole-in-the-wall noodle nooks in Hong Kong to
six-star private islands in the Maldives. The concept is simple: turn
on your smartphone, tune in and find out. What began as an info-
sharing portal for in-the-known travelers morphed into a go-to guide
for mass travel. But now it’s gaining a reputation as a diarrheic-
diatribe mouthpiece for the disenchanted. Part of the original genius,
which has now become a problem, is that neither travel gurus nor
journalists impart their trail-weathered secrets any longer; it’s
mostly a random community of users who log in with any e-mail
address or social media account and become instant experts.
As Sophocles said—and your mum and dad no doubt
overstated in various forms—“No enemy is worse than bad advice,”
particularly while on the road. After all, one traveler’s plight is
another’s pleasure, and anonymous and subjective critiques are wide
open to sway.
Take the case of Appia, a Roman-cuisine restaurant in Bangkok,
which recently entered the firing line after dramatically polarizing
TripAdvisor reviewers. The eternally booked spot has solicited
comments ranging from “Shame on you Appia” and “Overpriced and
arrogant” to “Outstanding” and “The king of trippy.” Owner Jarrett
Wrisley has received heavy praise and exposure through traditional
media channels (including, full disclosure, this magazine), yet Appia
continues to grossly under-rank at, when we went to press, No. 696 of
7,528 in the Bangkok Restaurants section of the website. (The
popular W Bangkok hotel, in merely one other example, also was
under-performing at just No. 80 of 730 hotels in the city).
“I have been threatened by many people who say things like, ‘Wait
until you see what I write on TripAdvisor,’” the normally laid-back
Wrisley says. “Many morons on TripAdvisor think restaurants are
responsible for everything, but if you don’t like getting bit by
mosquitoes, then don’t sit outside! Now, [people] can spite each other
via the very poorly regulated medium. Sadly, [some] groups discredit
what could be a pretty useful thing.” Sure, you could chalk this up to
sour grapes, but Wrisley is a former food-
journalist himself and understands the power of
the pen—as well as, in my opinion, of a properly
prepared ragu.
The open nature of TripAdvisor has certainly
benefited countless others—particularly, and
perhaps most to the site’s credit, those under-
the-radar places you would’ve only heard about
through your friend’s cousin’s coworker a
generation ago. Nang Gin Kui enjoyed the
coveted No. 1 ranking restaurant in Bangkok
status for many months this year and it might
not exist at all without TripAdvisor. As much an
experience of guerrilla dining as a restaurant
itself, guests are invited into a private apartment
to sample traditional home-style Thai cuisine
with a snappy view of the Chao Phraya River.
It’s a service that traditional marketing
channels might miss, but thanks to glowing
reviews on TripAdvisor, the venue now requires
reservations well in advance. “It’s really
fantastic because it’s a global word-of-mouth
engine which overcomes huge obstacles when
you are a small, inexperienced business,” says
the manager of the restaurant. “It focuses on the
real value of content of hidden places like us.” (In
an interesting parallel with Bangkok’s dining
category, the teeny boutique heritage-hotel
Ariyasomvilla holds the city’s best hotel slot,
ahead of all the stately grande dames.)
Hoteliers, restaurateurs and other
tourism venues seem to have no choice but to
embrace the power of online sway. One recent
visitor to a high-end resort in Bali was handed a
card by a pool attendee that not-so-subtly
mentioned TripAdvisor, his name and how much
he would appreciate a special shout-out on the
site. A follow-up post-stay e-mail from the hotel
requested a TripAdvisor review, providing a
direct link to do so (which the site allows in its
terms and conditions). When asked, the hotel
denied prompting or rewarding staff with
incentives for such coverage.
Regardless, their self-awareness is hardly
unique: how many times have you been
confronted by eager maître d’s—or perky signs
on the backs of bathroom stalls—asking for a
friendly TripAdvisor review? And then there are
the pay-for-praise allegations that have dogged
the site for years now; a few dozen venues
worldwide have been banned for such practices.
Researchers at Cornell University, in the U.S.,
even developed an algorithm to weed out fake
reviews. Be wary, the study said, of people laying
out every nitty-gritty detail of their holiday, and
of those using too many superlatives.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 113
 Be also wary of excessive negativity. Horror
stories abound. One hotel owner in the U.S. felt
the full wrath of TripAdvisor’s force after his
property, The Grand Resort Hotel & Convention
Center in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, was not-so-
prestigiously named the dirtiest hotel in
America in January 2011, beating out some
apparently less-rancid opposition. It
unceremoniously closed its doors the next year
and was sold, but not without further recourse
from the disgruntled owner, who, with his
tongue far from his cheek, threw down a US$10
million lawsuit against the “unsubstantiated
rumors” reported by reviewers.
The website pulled the publicity-grabbing
smear list after 2011, and while this perhaps
undermines their initial aim to expose “the
whole truth about travel—the good, the bad and
the ugly,” they beat the lawsuit this August. The
presiding judge stated that the term ‘dirtiest’
amounted to nothing but “rhetorical hyperbole”
and that “even the most careless reader must
have perceived that ‘dirtiest’ is simply an
exaggeration.” But did she give the average
web-trawler too much credit?
“Don’t believe
anything you read on
the net. Except this.
Well, including this,
I suppose.”
—douglas ada ms
In an act of revenge for the TripAdvisor
damned worldwide, one disgruntled man in the
U.K. got creative in his attempt to subvert the
website after reading unfounded attacks on a
friend’s restaurant. In July, Oscar’s appeared
fresh on the Brixham, U.K., dining scene,
drawing raves on TripAdvisor. Reviewers
declared it “The most amazing meal [they’d] ever
had,” with the food “bordering on sorcery” and
matching the world-famous, now-closed
Spanish restaurant elBulli. Divers were even
said to venture out into the waters from the
restaurant situated in the hull of a boat to catch
the fish fresh! Impressive, by anyone’s standard.
Alas, it proved too good to be true when the
directions to the venue led unwitting, would-be
diners to a bin-filled alleyway instead of a
restaurant. The bogus campaign for Oscar’s was
an ironic mirror of the less-scrupulous venues
114 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
and their too-perfect reviews. All of the site’s contributors must agree
to the terms and conditions that include the line, “I understand that
TripAdvisor has a zero-tolerance policy on fake reviews”—but that’s
like asking everyone on a dating site to pledge they’re as young and
good-looking as they say they are. Indeed, TripAdvisor changed its
official slogan from “reviews you can trust” to “reviews from our
community” in 2011, an admittance of factual infidelity.
Still, how do the site’s regulators stop it from becoming a mud-
slinging event for crabby customers hidden safely behind a firewall?
A representative for TripAdvisor in the Asia-Pacific region told me,
“Nothing is more important to us than the authenticity of our
reviews. We have a world-class international team of specialists who
spend 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, making sure our reviews are
real,” but didn’t elaborate on the details of this morally motivated
truth-seeking sweatshop.
After the Oscar’s prank, a spokesman from TripAdvisor suggested,
not so unreasonably, that its community is at least partly responsible
for policing itself. “With over 70 pieces of content coming in every
minute, occasionally a review or business that does not meet
TripAdvisor’s guidelines may slip through the cracks,” he said. “In
these rare cases, our members can report the material to us.”
But the obvious question arises as to the width of such cracks and
the ability of the site’s metrics, called the Popularity Index, to bridge
them. The site’s algorithm “measure[s] the quality, quantity and
recency [sic] of their content on TripAdvisor” and is updated weekly
according to the website, but the numeric formula that drives it
remains a mystery worthy of Euler to solve, much to the chagrin of
many a management team.
“A couple of positive reviews have little effect” if you’re already
doing well in the rankings, opines Karel Poels, owner of The Collector
Bed and Breakfast in Amsterdam. “But I had one ‘terrible’ review, and
I dropped eight positions.” Worse, Poels has no record of this reviewer
ever checking into his hotel. Not that actually visiting somewhere
prevents passive-aggressiveness. Poels remembers a friendly
experience with two guests, with whom he would chat and share wine
in the evenings. “Every day I asked ‘Is everything to your liking?’ and
their response was, ‘Yes, everything is fine,’” he says. “Then they
wrote a review on TripAdvisor that the pillows were too soft and that
the bed was squeaking. I didn’t understand it at all.”
People love to complain—about mobile-phone reception on a
deserted beach, the shape of the ice cubes in their mojito, the angle of
the sun, you name it. TripAdvisor encourages managers to respond to
despondent or vitriolic reviewers directly within the forum, engaging
the beast. But Wrisley from Appia is wary. “My father used to tell me
that if you wrestle with a pig you both get covered in shit,” he says.“I
think that applies well to TripAdvisor.”
The customer has always been right; now the reviewer is too. Since
everyone’s an expert, it’s up to the traveler to navigate not just the
streets of a city but also the prickled paths of the internet to find
advice, and to take heed with a grain of salt and a healthy dash of
cynicism. Your best bet might be a blanket approach to the major
websites (TripAdvisor, Gogobot) without taking anything too
literally, a glance at the minors (Couchsurfing, Oyster) for some fresh
tips, and a social media cast out to your friends and theirs—some of
them could be latter-day Captain Cooks whose adventures might
remind you of the pride and joy of charting your own journeys.
—with additional reporting by jago gazendam. ✚
 S T Y L I S T: A L I S A O U N S U W A N . M O D E L : AT I P O R N I N T R O AT P O R N / S U P E R R E D . H A I R A N D M A K E U P : S A N T I P O N G K W A N S E N G . P H O T O G R A P H E R ’ S A S S I TA N T: K A O N A N I L A V A J A R A
THE
JUNGLE
BOOK
PULAU GAYA IS A WORLD OF ITS OWN. ONCE YOU WRAP
YOURSELF IN THIS SPRAWLING ECOSYSTEM OF WHALE SHARKS,
PYGMY ELEPHANTS, COUNTLESS TYPES OF CORAL AND, OH
YES, COCONUT-AVOCADO SCALP SCRUBS, YOU’LL WANT TO SET
UP A TREEHOUSE AND MOVE IN. BY DIANA HUBBELL.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY AUSADAVUT SARUM.
 The view from the
porch (swimsuit,
robe and accessories
by Chanel).

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 117
 “Finding Nemo got it wrong,” says Heldy Bin Soonny,
my snorkeling instructor for the day.
“Come again?”
“Look down.”
I attach my mask and lower my face below the surface. The water is
shockingly clear. What looks like an undulating kaleidoscope of cerulean and
lapis lazuli from above turns out to be an underwater metropolis. The coral-
studded ocean floor stands out in hyper-definition no nature documentary
could hope to match. This is Planet Earth times 10, real and live and so sharp you
can see the scales on the fish at the bottom.
Near the brain coral and below a spindly school of needlefish, I spot two
clownfish hovering around an anemone’s protective tentacles. The smaller of
the pair darts for cover, but the larger, darker one is fearless. It rushes right at us,
stopping only a meter away, before diving back to home turf. Moments later, it’s
back again, mouth agape.
“That bigger clownfish is the female,” Heldy tells me. “And the smaller one is
her husband. Here’s what they didn’t tell you: all clownfish are hermaphrodites.
They’re basically male when they’re young, then the biggest and strongest ones
change into females. If something happens to the female though, her husband
will change sex within two months and become the new dominant female.”
Wait, so Nemo’s dad should’ve turned into Nemo’s new mom?
“Yes, but Disney and Pixar didn’t show that part. They lied to little children,”
he adds with a smirk. “So unethical.”

S
ex-swapping clownfish are far from the strangest things lurking
just a few meters down. Heldy shows me a pair of blue-and-purple-
mottled giant clams, each at least 20 years old. There are 17 more just
like them on this reef, all rescued from illegal fishermen. The two
clams slam shut as we swim by, still skittish from nearly becoming
sashimi. Damselfish dance about in a frenzied mating display, their
silver-streaked bodies shimmering in the light, while triggerfish scurry, and
clusters of sea urchins waggle their spines. Whale sharks have been spotted
nearby, and many of these creatures of the deep have yet to be discovered.
Welcome to Pulau Gaya in Malaysian Borneo, one of the largest biodiversity
hotspots in the world, the oceanic answer to the Amazon. The seas between
here, the Philippines and Papua New Guinea—the “coral triangle”—host more
than 500 species of coral and 3,000 of fish. Keep in mind that marine biologists
have only tallied around 700 kinds of coral and 7,000 of fish on the whole planet.
Even after nearly two years of working overtime with the Marine Centre’s
team, “we haven’t even begun to tabulate everything,” Scott Mayback, the
resident marine biologist tells me.
Pulau Gaya is no less impressive above the water. This island is home to many
of Borneo’s 200-plus species of mammals, including the not-so-diminutive
Borneo pygmy elephant, rare proboscis monkeys and wild bearded pigs. Lush
mangroves provide shelter for everything from megapodes to hornbills to
2-meter monitor lizards plucked from the Jurassic period.
In the midst of all this biological proliferation, surrounded by Tunku Abdul
Rahman Marine Park, sits Gaya Island Resort. Swathes of foliage encircle the
120 earth-toned villas and two-bedroom suite. Large parts of the resort are
perched on elevated walkways above mangroves. There are few straight lines in
the whole place; instead, the paths weave and wind, as if they grew organically
along with the rest of the vegetation. This is the rare sort of resort not defined by
the opulence of its interiors—a seamless blend of contemporary minimalism
and classic Malay style—but rather by the gloriously unfettered, unplanned
luxury of its surrounds. Yes, there are eggs Benedict dripping sunny hollandaise
in the morning, sambal-slathered local slipper lobster served seaside by
candlelight in the evening, and potent cocktails in the pool all day long, but

118 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Catching some sun (dress, Emilio
Pucci; headscarf and cuffs, Hermés;
sunglasses, Chanel; shoes, Jimmy Choo).
Opposite from top: Outside the library
(caftan and cuff, Chanel); eggs Benedict
for breakfast; a villa tucked in the trees.
 Clockwise from left:
Unwinding at Spa Village
(T-shirt, Diane von
Furstenberg; necklace and
cuff, Chanel; shoes,
Valentino); villas are
contemporary and
classical; cocktails by the
beach (blouse, Diane von
Furstenberg); all hands on
deck for a yacht cruise;
welcome to the resort;
slipper lobster on the
beach (scarf as top,
Hermés; earring and cuffs,
Chanel); taking in the sun.

O
Clockwise from top
right: The sun sets
over Pulau Gaya; a
walk in the jungle
(scarf as dress and
cuffs, Hermés);
barbecue and
beverages on the
lunch board at the
resort’s private
beach; local seafood
shines at Fisherman’s
Cove restaurant.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
what you’ll remember most from
Pulau Gaya is ancient and far more
grand. After all, the resort opened its
doors little more than a year ago,
whereas many of these trees have
stood here for a millennium.
ne afternoon, I meet
one of the island’s
old-timers, a deadly
predator known for
taking on king cobras
and turning them into
lunch. Silent, lethal and prone to
nocturnal attacks, this beast and his
ancestors have sat at the top of the
Bornean food chain for ages.
Right now though, the barred eagle
owl is more interested in snapping up
bits of raw chicken from my hand.
“You have to make him pull,” Justin
Juhun, the resort’s resident
naturalist, reminds me. I close my
fingers obediently and the owl glares
at me with huge, liquid eyes. He’s
smaller than many of the eagle-size
members of his species, but when his
wings flare up I have to lean back. He
rips the morsel away from me before
settling down again, feathers literally
and figuratively ruffled.
The owl’s shattered leg is still
wrapped in plaster, a mark of the
injury that landed him here in the
first place. Like the wounded sea
turtle the resort’s Marine Centre
released back into the ocean just the
week before, the owl was near death
when Gaya Island took him in. The
staff has been slowly nursing him
back to health for months.
But the owl is far from domestic. He
still must work for his food. He does
not have a name. “For me, wildlife is
always wild,” Justin says. He would
know. He has been raising and
rehabilitating animals since
childhood. Growing up, his backyard
in a softwood plantation three hours
from Sabah was the temporary resting
place of dozens of injured or orphaned
creatures. Here on Pulau Gaya, he
oversees the immense and, in many
instances, unknown environment.
The next morning, he takes me for a
walk in the woods, with stops to plant
stray mangrove seeds (the barbed
pods need only be dropped in shallow
D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 121
 A sun-speckled stroll (skirt, Emilio Pucci;
scarf, Hermés; cuff, Chanel). Opposite top:
Letting loose at Tavajun Bay (bikini, Emilio
Pucci; cuffs, Hermés). Opposite bottom:
bearded pigs call Pulau Gaya home.
water) and to rip out an invasive species. He leads me past vine-strangled
eucalyptus and termite mounds strong as bulbous, bronze sculptures. He points
+
T L Guide
Getting There
out a leaf with antiviral properties; a plant good for healing open wounds—and
Malaysia Airlines (malaysiaairlines.
even better for facials; a parasitic fungus capable of killing an entire tree, but com) and Royal Brunei Airlines
highly prized in Chinese medicine; and curculigo officinalis, a berry much like (flyroyalbrunei.com) fly directly to Kota
the popular “miracle fruit,” which can make bitter flavors taste sweet. Kinabalu from several major
“It’s a vast jungle. We just finished identifying all the plants. There are Southeast Asian cities. AirAsia
currently 276 just along the trail. We also have about 18 species of snake and 40 of (airasia.com) offers flights from
Kuala Lumpur. The resort provides
birds and four species of gecko and four types of flying lizard…” The list goes on. speedboat transfers directly from the
At one point during the walk, Justin reaches down and snatches a viper up as airport.
casually as if it were a twig. The serpent, long, whip-thin and a venomous shade
of green, coils around his arm and turns to look directly at me.
“Is it poisonous?” I ask. Gaya Island Resort Malohom Bay,
“Oh, only a little,” he shrugs. It turns out to be an Oriental vine snake. “But it Pulau Gaya, Tunku Abdul Rahman
is not aggressive. It won’t bite me. Look—it’s beautiful.” Marine Park, Kota Kinabalu; 60-18/939-
He speaks in an almost reverent tone, and indeed, it is. I relax just a little after 1100; gayaislandresort.com; doubles
from RM810.
he releases it and watch as it slithers, lightning-quick, into the undergrowth.
Justin describes many parts of the forest as “beautiful,” using the same hushed
awe regardless of whether an outsider might tend towards “weird” or even
“revolting.” Where others might see a millipede, he sees a sign of a thriving,
healthy ecosystem.

T
hat same respect for the jungle’s abundance extends to the more
refined parts of the resort. On my visit to the spa, I notice the
treatments draw more from the Earth than a laboratory. My
therapist gently massages my scalp with a bowl of coconut cream
laced with fresh avocado, and scrubs the city-soot from my skin
with a blend of soaked red rice and more avocado heady with
cinnamon. I’ve never smelled better or felt smoother.
Thoroughly blissed out, I step outside the spa and stumble across a family of
long-tailed macaques. The monkeys eye me with silent, wizened faces, before
lazily hopping off the path and vanishing. My treatment room, like the yoga
studio where I had saluted the tropical sun that morning, was only barely
removed from the forest canopy. On Pulau Gaya, you’re wrapped in the wild.
The jungle was here first, and it’s here to stay. ✚

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 123
Sunset beers
and champagne
at Bar(a)Bara,
Soneva Fushi’s
overwater bar.
 Isle of Inspiration
MERRITT GURLEY CHECKS IN WITH MALDIVIAN QUEEN
SONEVA FUSHI AND THE OTHER DREAMERS,
INNOVATORS AND SUN-WORSHIPPERS THAT
TOOK HOME ACCOLADES AT THIS YEAR’S
WILD ASIA RESPONSIBLE TOURISM AWARDS.
JAGO GA ZENDAM

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 125
I am lost on an island that might be sinking.
I start at the beach, an empty stretch of snow-white sand
outlined in those turquoise waves the postcards promise.
Then I pass the 10-meter long private pool (a pretty solid
landmark) and continue onward through the villa and out
the door, down a stone path, alongside a wading pool,
weaving through palm trees and banyan trees, here to this
stonewall waterfall. I have no idea where I am or how to get
where I want to be going (to lunch). I walk the length of the
waterfall and at its conclusion I spot a shower. It dawns on
me. I turn around in slow circle, and it hits me full force.
I’m in the bathroom. In the 20 minutes that I’ve been
wandering aimlessly, I never left my own villa.
My pitiful lack of an internal compass conspires with
Soneva Fushi’s pitch-perfect harmony with the natural
landscape—and its good fortune to be situated on one of the
Maldives’ biggest islands, at 1,400 meters long—to create an
environment where I’m often not sure if I am inside or
outside. Yet design is only a part of why the Soneva brand
was named Most Inspiring Responsible Tourism
Accommodations Provider at this year’s Wild Asia
Responsible Tourism Awards. Soneva’s founders, Sonu and
Eva Shivdasani, tailored the Fushi’s sustainable practices
to the pressures looming largest in the Maldives. They call
their mission the slow life, a resort-friendly acronym for
the more cumbersome Sustainable-Local-Organic-
Wellness Learning-Inspiring-Fun-Experiences. This duo
launched an international movement to improve access to
drinkable water across the globe and they’ve poured
millions of dollars into minimizing their resorts’ impact
on their surrounds. These efforts have paid off in a slew of
Earth-saving innovations that are, in
no small feat, actually of interest to
their guests.
T
here are few places on
earth that are as worthy
and as deeply in need of
preservation as the
Maldives. The republic
takes its name from the Sanskrit
words for “garland island,” as each of
the coral islets is surrounded by a reef
lagoon. The approach by seaplane is
spectacular: the ocean dressed in
emerald and sapphire bracelets of
various sizes and shapes... or perhaps
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S O N E V A F U S H I ; J A G O G A Z E N D A M
Davey Jones’ Locker finally sprung
open, its bounty having floated to the
surface in all its glittering glory. But
the splendor is of the vulnerable
variety. This is the smallest country in
Asia, both in terms of population and
landmass, made up of a collection of
1,190 atolls spread over 764 kilometers
of the Indian Ocean and with an
average elevation of 1.5 meters above
sea level—which is gradually rising
thanks to global warming. Recent
studies released by the United Nations
predict that the ocean will increase by
 From far left:
Soneva’s glass
bottles and
filtered water
more than a meter by the turn of the century, which could surge, complete with resorts, golf sparked the Whole
mean lights out for the Maldives. courses and the other trappings of World Water
That would be disastrous for a country that derives most high-end tourism. campaign; veggies

W
of its revenue from honeymooners and other sunseekers. in the garden at
Soneva Fushi; here
Back in the mid-1970’s, author Clarence Maloney bemoaned hat’s so inspiring
villas blend in.
how quickly infrastructure was developing in the about Soneva Fushi Bottom: An egret
Maldives: “Now nine islands have hotels designed to is that they needed strolls the beach.
accommodate a total of over 1,000 tourists, of the sort who no governmental
relish basking in the equatorial sun and who come during nudge to go eco-
the European winter.” Boy would he be pissed today. wild. One afternoon I tour the atoll, on
Tourism developments have broken ground on 14 virgin a mission to uncover the inner-
islands in Maldives this year alone, there are at least workings of its green innovations. I
124 resorts, and visitor arrivals last year topped 958,000. discover that all leftover metal is
Though there are some scientists who write off the sorted and sent to India. Styrofoam is
environmental concerns as hype, leaders in the Maldives sliced up and used in construction for
F R O M T O P R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F S O N E V A F U S H I ; J A G O G A Z E N D A M

seem to take them pretty seriously. This is a country, after
all, that so esteems the power of nature that a coconut was
officially arrested during the recent tumultuous election
for giving off bad vibes near a polling station. In 2008,
then-president Mohamed Nasheed held a cabinet meeting
underwater, signing a document that called for global cuts
in carbon emissions, all decked out in his scuba gear,
making the not-so-subtle point that the country could be
swallowed by the depths. He vowed to make the Maldives
carbon neutral by 2020 and even set aside a sovereign
wealth fund from tourism capital and was in negotiations
with Australia to set aside land for displaced Maldivians
should the country be washed away. Despite current
governmental upheaval, plans seems to be continuing to
construct artificial islands that can withstand an oceanic
insulation. Waste wood is used to
create charcoal for the resort’s many
barbecue grills in such bulk that none
needs to be imported.
Unlike most resorts in the
Maldives that simply chuck their food
waste out to sea, Soneva uses this
nutrient-rich trash for compost,
which has resulted in the speedy
growth of eggplants, tomatoes, herbs
and other vegetables in their
burgeoning on-site garden. This is of
paramount importance for the island
nation as its loose sand is poorly
suited for agriculture, “It is almost

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 127
impossible to grow fruits and vegetables without compost,”
says Sophy Williams, public relations for Soneva Resorts. THEY PLAY BACH
“We need this compost to become more self-sufficient.” The
compost is so effective that they’ve started selling it to AND MOZART TO
THE HIGH-CLASS
neighboring islands for US$6 a bag. “Recycling is still a
good business and that’s what the world needs to wake up

H20 AS IT IS
to,” Williams says.
Recycling can also be a beautiful business. In one room
there are bags of sparkling glass, pieces of crushed wine
bottles used to supplement cement, reducing the carbon
footprint. And the rows of solar panels, bathing in the
FILTERED. YOU
Maldivian sun, have a sharp metal dazzle of their own.
Everything is looking up to snuff when I stumble on a
CAN REQUEST
room full of empty plastic bottles—the very kind I’d been
assured had been banned back in 2008. Busted. “Ah ha!” I CRYSTALS BE
say. “Where did these come from?” Well, as it turns out, the
staff goes on recycling runs to pick up plastic bottles at SUBMERGED IN IT
nearby islands and found floating in surrounding waters
and collects them to be crushed and sent to India where FOR THE HEALING
they are repurposed. Of course they do.
PROPERTIES

T
here’s a sad irony to sitting on a dock with a
360-degree view of the ocean and realizing that salted caramels. At sunset I head to
there is, as Coleridge nailed it in The Rime of the the overwater bar for a chilled Corona
Ancient Marine, “water, water, everywhere, nor and the warm rush of sea air, that’s
any drop to drink.” In addition to plastic just a little cooler as the sun ducks
control, water shortage is a big issue plaguing the Maldives. beneath the horizon. And for dinner?
Once again, Soneva plays part-scientific/part-spiritual Grilled Maldivian reef fish and
leader on this front. Guests pay US$6 per bottle of water at butter-drenched lobster. There is an
Soneva Fushi and if this sounds steep, realize that this is entire room, open round the clock, full
some seriously pampered aqua—they play Bach and Mozart of just chocolates. Another room is
to the high-class H2O as it is filtered, which they believe devoted to breads and ice cream, and
improves the taste. For an extra US$2 you can request yet another is chock-a-block with
various crystals be submerged in the water for their cheese and cured meats. When I lose
supposed healing properties. Half of this water revenue is my way through this paradise, I enlist
poured into the slow life foundation, which, according to the assistance of my personal butler,
Arnfinn Oines, who heads up the environmental efforts at known as Mr. Friday.
Soneva, has helped 600,000 people get access to clean It is hedonism at its best in a setting
drinking water or basic sanitation over the past four years. that’s as spectacular as the service.
In fact, this on-site water purification and glass bottling And yet, knowing that part of the
system has been so successful that it sparked the Whole profits go towards philanthropy and
World Water campaign, which aims to contribute US$1 preservation, that at least some of the
billion per year from the sale of filtered water towards energy is being offset by solar power,
providing safe drinking water for communities around the and that the waste will eventually
world. Essentially hotels pay a licensing fee for help a garden grow, takes the guilty
membership, which includes branded Whole World Water edge off of an indulgent vacation. Isn’t
bottles and associated marketing materials. In turn, 10 that the ultimate luxury? ✚
percent of the proceeds from the water they sell goes back
into the project. Big names like Edward Norton and Soneva Fushi, Kunfunadhoo,
Richard Branson are advisors, while hotels like the Dusit, Maldives 960/660-0304; soneva.com;
the Ritz-Carlton Charlotte, the Banyan Tree and Jetwing doubles from US$1,145.
have already joined the collective. Soneva Kiri, Koh Kood, Thailand
Water isn’t the only high-end commodity at Soneva 66-3/961-9800; soneva.com; doubles
Fushi. I spend my time on Kunfunadhoo Island cycling from US$1,120.
sun-dappled trails that lead through arched jungle
canopies to stilted yoga studios and hidden beaches, Please see page 130 for all the Wild Asia
snorkeling the parrot-fish-infested waters, and gorging on Responsible Tourism Award winners.

128 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 Singapore’s Best Employer 2013
and
Best Employer for Commitment
to Engagement 2013
By Aon Hewitt

Forbes Travel Guide Recommended 2013

By Forbes Travel Guide

Best Independent Hotel Award

2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008
By TTG Travel Awards

Singapore Green Hotel Award 2011

By Singapore Hotel Association

Hotel of the Year Award 2010

By Summit Hotels & Resorts

AsiaOne People’s Choice Best

Buffet Restaurant
2013, 2012, 2011, 2010
By SPH AsiaOne

Carousel, Best Buffet Restaurant

By The Straits Times

25 Scotts Road Singapore 228220

www.royalplaza.com.sg
Tel: (65) 6737 7966 Fax: (65) 6737 6646
Email: royal@royalplaza.com.sg
 LEADERS OF THE PACK
We spoke with Wild Asia Responsible Tourism judges JENS THRAENHART, AMY MCLOUGHLIN and
PETER RICHARDS to find out how these jolly green giants managed to take the top spots in an award that
draws nominations from the world’s most forward thinking names in sustainable tourism.
Best in Community
Engagement and
Development
Winner Bali CoBTA,
Indonesia (cbtbali.org), is a
non-profit organization that
promotes sustainable tourism.
“Successfully established an
ambitious, multi-stakeholder
working and advisory group, to
develop more sustainable and
marketable community-based
tourism in Bali.” —peter
richards
Runner Up
Lisu Lodge, Thailand (asian-
oasis.com; two-day, one-night
trek from Bt3,320), named after
the Lisu villagers whose
ancestors migrated from China
and Tibet a hundred years ago, is
part of a project that works to
preserve Thai culture.
Best in Cultural Preservation
Best in Cultural Preservation
Winner Apani Dhani, India
(apanidhani.com), introduces
visitors to the traditional arts and
crafts of Rajasthan. “Engages
with its local community on
powerful levels. Their campaign to
protect historic buildings in
Shekhawat wiill help to keep arts
vibrant and relevant in people’s
daily lives.” —p.r.
130 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Runner Up Sampran
Riverside, Thailand  Winner Frangipani Langkawi
(sampranriverside.com; doubles
from Bt2,900 per night), offers a
window into local Thai life,
exploring both the rich history
and current culture.
Best in Protection of Natural
Areas and/or Wildlife
Conservation
Winner Ranweli Holiday
Village, Sri Lanka  (ranweli.
com; doubles from US$205), is an
eco-friendly resort on nearly 9
hectares of land, rich with
mangrove forests and rivers
teeming with life. “Tangible
examples include contributions,
conservation, eduction, carbon
offsetting, sewage treatment,
green purchasing and mangrove
rehabilitation.”— amy
mcloughlin
Runner Up
Scuba Junkie, Malaysia
(scuba-junkie.com; doubles from
RM215), runs dive trips to 25
islands in the Celebes Sea in
Sabah, exposing visitors to some
of the world’s most biodiverse
dives.
Best in Resource Efficiency
Resport and Spa, Malaysia  overnight wildlife safari RM1,138
(frangipanilangkawi.com; doubles
from RM580, with breakfast), is
an eco-friendly beach resort on
Pantai Tengah. “Very innovative
when it comes to recycling. The
owner builds his own systems,
and is open about transferring
knowledge and helping other
hotels adopt his innovations.”
—jens thraenhart
Runner Up Heritance
Kandalama, Sri Lanka
(heritancehotels. com; doubles
from US$165), designed by Sri
Lanka’s most famous architect,
Geoffrey Bawa, overlooks the
rock fortress of Sigiriya.
Most Inspiring Responsible
Tourism Accommodation
Provider
Winner Soneva Resorts,
Thailand & Maldives (soneva.
com; Crusoe villas from
US$1,145) pushes the envelope
when it comes to combining
luxury with conservation.
“Innovation, quantifiable action
and creativity with impacts at
scale, on issues like climate
change, access to water, recycling
and hiring local people.” —p.r.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B A L I C O B TA ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A M P R A N R I V E R S I D E ; C O U R T E S Y O F F R A N G I P A N I L A N G K A W I R E S O R T A N D S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F S U K A U R A I N F O R E S T L O D G E ; G U N T H E R I Z E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ;
C O U R T E S Y O F V I A V I A T O U R S ; C O U R T E S Y O F S O N E V A ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F S C U B A J U N K I E ; C O U R T E S Y O F A P A N I D H A N I ; C O U R T E S Y O F L I S U L O D G E ; C O U R T E S Y O F R A N W E L I H O L I D AY V I L L A G E ; C O U R T E S Y O F H E R I TA N C E K A N D A L A M A
Runner Up Sukau Rainforest
Lodge, Malaysia (sukau.com;
per person) protects Borneo’s
wildlife and waterways, while
providing superlative comfort.
Most Inspiring Responsible
Tour Operator
Winner Papua Expeditions,
Indonesia (papuaexpeditions.
com; ascent of Mount Nok, six
nights, from €1,164), has hiking
birding, wildlife and trekking
expeditions on the lesser-known
western half of New Guinea.
“Within a remarkable and largely
undiscovered destination, they
provide inspiring management
and contribute to community
engagement, especially with
indigenous groups, and wildlife
conservation.”—a.m.
Runner Up ViaVia Tours,
Indonesia (viaviajogja.com;
four-hour bicycle-trip to a
Javanese village; Rp135,000 per
person for groups of two or more),
gives part of all profits from its
adventure, gastronomy, arts and
culture tours to supporting
educational, social and cultural
projects around Yogyakarta.
SUBSCRIBE NOW
TO OUR DIGITAL EDITION
Available at www.zinio.com
1 year / 12 issues for US$29.99.
 Pacific Spirits
The romance of Vanuatu isn’t found merely in its upscale resorts and
deep-blue seas, but also its dark and abiding Melanesian history. Island-hop
the happy-go-lucky archipelago of coconut crabs, klevers and the cult of
Prince Philip. Story and photos by Ian Lloyd Neubauer
 Blazing saddle-free in
Mele Bay. Opposite top:
A cultural performer at
Vanuatu Secret Garden.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 133
Chilling on Lelepa.
Opposite: Spearfishing
in crystal-clear seas.
 ith its candy-colored buildings,
bustling farmers’ market and sultry
seaside location, Port Vila, the capital
of Vanuatu, has the look and feel of a
reggae video. The city, if one can call it that,
was established in the late 19th century as the
administrative center of an Anglo-French
venture known as the New Hebrides. At first a bastion of
law and order, Port Vila descended into a veritable pirate’s
den during World War I, when the then-superpowers
turned their attention to the Western Front. Impromptu
horse races tore down the main drag and drunks fired
pistols at random targets and into the sky, while slaves were
traded with the throw of a hand of cards at the notorious
Bloodhouse Bar. Yet even these antics were eclipsed by the
depravities of the outer islands, where human sacrifice and
cannibalism were rife. A number of high-profile
Europeans, particularly missionaries, were roasted on the
spit—even though they weren’t especially savored by the
connoisseurs of human flesh. “The natives allege that this
is because the whites taste bad,” wrote Swiss
anthropologist Felix Speiser in 1923. “He stinks of gin. He
eats too much salt.”
Who would’ve guessed that such a debauched near-
caricature of old Oceania would, 80-odd years later, be the
paradisiacal, warm and inviting society topping the 178
contenders in 2006’s inaugural Happy Planet Index? (The
study assesses a country’s environmental footprint, and its
residents’ life expectancy and wellbeing .) “People are
happy here because they are very satisfied with very little,”
Mark Lowen, an Australian journalist based in Vanuatu
said. “This is not consumer-driven society. Life here is
about community and family and goodwill to other people.”
The gross domestic happiness of its people—and, as I
experienced, their genuine embrace of foreigners—remains
unchanged. “Our salaries are very low,” says bus driver
David Carcasses, “but we have everything we need.”
Despite the fact that they pay no income taxes—something
surely high on many people’s happiness meters—“you will
never see a person go hungry or begging in Vanautu.” Adds
yam farmer Heston Bebe: “Life here is timeless.”
That means subsistence agriculture and fisheries for the
vast majority of its 250,000 people, who are scattered about
83 velvet-green islands ringed in coral reefs. A patchwork
of tropical forests edged by beaches and translucent seas
home to more than 4,000 species of marine mollusks, 450
kinds of reef fish and 300 species of coral, this South Seas
archipelago is a virtual Garden of Eden. It’s an opinion
shared by the few thousand cruise passengers and
honeymooners who visit Vanuatu every week to shop in
Port Vila and to ensconce themselves in full-service
resorts elsewhere on the main island of Efate. “Vanuatu
used to sell itself exclusively as a honeymoon destination,”
says Troy Spain, a retired postal officer from Sydney who
operates an abseiling business at Mele Waterfall. “But
they were selling the country short of everything else it has
to offer.” Indeed, beyond this tiny Pacific nation’s well-
traveled confines lies a rich Melanesian culture steeped
both in religion and magic with a dark but fascinating
colonial history.
Cannibalism in the New Hebrides was stamped
out by missionaries in the 1920’s, but sorcery remains
ingrained in the national psyche. Witchdoctors, known as
klevers, are often contracted by Vanuatuans to protect
them against the spirits of the recently deceased, to deliver
bumper crops and to concoct love spells. Malicious klevers
can also be called upon to rain misfortune or bad health
upon one’s foes using small stones baring the likeness of
human faces called nakaemas.
“At first I didn’t believe, but there have been many cases
with people killed by witchcraft in Vanuatu,” says Benna
Vores, a law student I meet in Port Vila. “When the doctors
performed the autopsies, they saw that internal organs had
been replaced by leaves.”
Vores helped me set up a meeting with a klever but when
we rendezvous, he informs me without irony that the klever
can’t see me because he’s sick with a cold. This being a
Sunday, Vores offers to take me instead to a mass held by a
chapter of The Revival Fellowship on the outskirts of town.
The service is held in Bislama—a comical creole of
English, French and Spanish (the term for brasserie is
basket blong titi; french fries are chipypotato)—but sees
churchgoers enter a kind of spasm and spew prayers in an
unintelligible gobbledegook: “The Bible says he who speaks
in an unknown tongue speaks not to man but to God,” says
Jimmy Langa, a parishioner I meet. “When I speak in
tongues, my mind is not there. I cannot understand but the
Devil can’t understand it either. It’s the language of the
Holy Spirit. It comes from the heart.”
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 135
 My soul now nourished, I return to the waterfront to do
the same for my body at one of Port Vila’s 50-some
restaurants, cafés and bars. Grass-fed antibiotic-free beef
from the island of Espiritu Santo is a favorite among
tourists, though the locals prefer wild pigeon or flying fox.
These gamey dishes are marinated in red wine at
L’Houstalet, Port Vila’s most talked-about French-
Melanesian restaurant. When I go there I opt instead for
the deliciously sweet meat of coconut crab. With fist-size
pincers used to crack open, as you might have guessed,
coconuts, these shellfish are hazardous to hunt. these
crabs can be dangerous and can easily cut off your finger if
provoked, warns a sign posted on a cage housing a coconut
crab at the Secret Garden, a family friendly cultural
attraction on Efate’s south coast.
After a few days in Port Vila, I head to Havannah Bay, a
sheltered strait encircled by islets on Efate’s north coast.
There, I check-in to The Havannah, a chic boutique resort
that would look right at home in Seminyak. It features 16
luxuriously appointed bungalows, a two-tiered infinity
pool and open-air restaurant with oversize red sofas.
Hardwood table settings freckle the garden and private
beach, though the best spot in the house is on a glass-
bottom pavilion set into the jetty. The Havannah’s
contingent of complimentary activities boggles the mind:
sunset catamaran cruises in waters bubbling with
bottlenose dolphins; guided treks through coast-hugging
jungle; and transfers to secluded beaches on Tranquillity
Island on the other side of the bay.
136 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
Tranquillity has a small bungalow complex, a dive
center, and the longest-running Hawksbill turtle-breeding
program in the South Pacific. Devoid of development,
roads and electricity, the island a great place to disconnect.
“If you think Tranquillity is laid-back, then you’ve got to
get yourself the outer islands,” says Victoria Maclean, The
Havannah’s assistant manager. “There are villages there
that have laws against modern inventions and people who
live 100 percent traditional lives. The men still wear penis
sheaths and women wear grass skirts. I can’t imagine there
are many places outside Papua New Guinea or the depths of
the Amazon Jungle like that.”
I take Maclean’s advice and book an overnight
trip to Tanna Island in Vanuatu’s south where I walk
around the crater of Mount Yasur, one of the world’s most
accessible active stratovolcanoes. Tanna is also home to the
Prince Philip cult that recognizes the husband of Queen
Elizabeth II as the living incarnation of the son of a
mountain-dwelling spirit and worships him as a god.
I also visit Pentecost Island, an hour’s flight to the
north, where I see men throw themselves off a 30-meter-
high bamboo tower with vines tied to their feet in a
centuries-old coming-of-age ceremony. The land divers of
Pentecost inspired the modern-day extreme sportsmen
who invented bungee jumping but, done Vanuatu-style, the
stakes are markedly higher. Fatalities may be rare (the last
was reported in 2006), but ruptured spleens, concussions
and dislocated bones are par for the course. In my heart of
 Outrigger kayaking on
Lelepa. Opposite from
left: Sailing Havannah
Bay; be wary of the
coconut crab’s pincers.
Set for a swim at The
Havannah. Opposite:
Land divers of Pentacost
prep for the plunge.
hearts, I know I would never have the balls to do this, let
alone walk around all day in a penis sheath.
On my last day, I take a speedboat to Lelepa Island where
I spend the day snorkeling over Technicolor reefs, stuffing
myself on barbecued fish and sunbaking on secluded, sun- +
T L Guide
kissed, sugar-white beaches. As I lie there, palm trees Getting there
EAT AND DRINK
behind me, warm water rushing between my toes, a Élan Stylish waterfront eatery in
Vanuatu Air (678/23-848;
Port Vila. Try the Vanuatuan
cloudless blue sky reflected on the swell, I think there is airvanuatu.com) flies from
aged organic eye fillet, lobster
nowhere left to travel after this, nothing to say, nothing to Sydney to Port Vila, Efate
stack or clam chowder. Wharf
do but sit back and soak it in, one soft, glassy wave at a time. Island, daily. Melanesian
Rd.; 678/25-526; dinner for two
Tours (678/26-847;
Like so many of Vanuatu’s islands, Lelepa is more than melanesiantours.com) offer
from A$60.
just pretty face. My guide Albert Solomon shows me a plant L’Houstalet Restaurant Iconic
airport transfers and ground
with anesthetic properties used to soothe toothaches and a 40-year old French restaurant
transport elsewhere on Efate.
on Route de Lagon, Port Vila.
tree used to make outrigger canoes. He takes me deep into
678/22-303; house specialties:
the jungle to see the twisted remains of a Scout Bomber flying fox in red wine A$25,
Douglas—one of 300 U.S. Air Force planes that crash- coconut crab in garlic sauce
landed in the New Hebrides during World War II. He leads STAY A$35.
me into a 100-meter-deep cave used as a leper colony in the The Havannah A boutique
resort on Efate’s northwest Do
early 20th century following an outbreak attributed to coast. 678/551-8060; Coongoola Day Cruise
European missionaries. And he tells me how Lelepa’s 500 thehavannah.com; villas from 678/25-020; southpacdive
residents bathed in the international spotlight when the A$420; dinner for two from cruise.com.vu; day trips to
American and Australian versions of the TV series A$24. secluded coves on Tranquillity
Survivor were filmed here in 2004 and 2006 respectively. Iririki Island Resort On a Island aboard a 23-meter sailing
private island on Port Vila ketch with barbecue lunch and
“When we saw them trying to open a coconut, some people
Harbour. 61-3/9326-6579; snorkeling gear A$120.
laughed so hard they could not breathe,” Solomon says. iririki.com; waterfront bungalows Mele Cascades Thirty-meter
“They still make jokes and laugh about it today.” from A$318; candlelit balcony waterfall with bright-blue natural
Most Vanuatuans are softly spoken and reserved, three-course dinners for two swimming pools set in tropical
though there is a small, highly vocal minority that takes A$100. gardens a 15-minute drive north
pleasure in rocking the boat. Solomon fits into the latter Tranquillity Dive Resort Eco- of Port Vila. Entry A$25.
property on Tranquillity Island. Evergreen Tours 678/23-050;
archetype and is non-stop with the jokes, especially when
678/25-020; tranquillitydive. evergreenvanuatu.com; half-day
the subject of cannibalism is broached. “You’re a com; palm-thatch bungalows tours around Efate with pick-up
journalist?” he enthuses. “Fantastic! Please send more with meals A$120 per person; from Port Vila A$40.
tourists to come and visit Lelepa Island. The last group that introductory dive A$60.
came here was delicious.” ✚

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 139
 Our Definitive Guide to

Edgy boutiques.
Independent galleries.
Forward-thinking
restaurants, each more
innovative than the
last. There’s never been
a better time to visit
the South African city.
Will Hide surveys the
scene. Photographed
by Dook
 Artists Mbongeni Dlamini (left) and
Morné Visagie at Whatiftheworld
Gallery, in Woodstock, just southeast
of Cape Town. Opposite: A giant
disco ball at Grand Café & Beach,
on the V&A Waterfront.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 141
CAPE TOWN

SOU TH
A F RICA ROBBE N
ISLAND
CA PE TOW N V& A
WAT E RF RON T
From left:
The lounge
at One&Only
C IT Y BOW L Cape Town;
WOODSTOC K a room
C LI F TON at Villa Zest.

CA M PS
BAY
TA BLE
MOU N TA I N

N
0 2.4 K M CONSTA NTIA

Lay of
the Land
City Bowl
Cape Town’s commercial

Stay
heart is home to trendy
neighborhoods such as
Gardens, De Waterkant
and Bo-Kaap, filled with
stylish cafés and colorful
cottages.

Clifton/Camps Bay
Seven hotels that top our list, from the
White-sand beaches latest openings to the classics.
border the city’s ritziest
area, where cocktail bars CAPE GRACE KENSINGTON tours bring guests to meets new: elegant
spill out onto the shore. Located on a private PLACE the coastline to forage Heritage rooms—tufted
quay, Cape Grace is In-the-know travelers for the night’s dinner. headboards; original
Constantia a magnet for Hollywood love this eight-room mountnelson.co.za; mullioned windows—in
Known for its rolling royalty (Ryan Reynolds town house in the R4,570. two restored landmark
vineyards, Constantia is and Beyoncé have been foothills of Table buildings offset the
just a 20-minute drive spotted here). Rooms Mountain. The interiors ONE&ONLY more modern Tower
south from downtown. come with whimsical are ultracontemporary CAPE TOWN wing, with floor-to-
chandeliers made from (white-on-white The postcard-perfect ceiling windows and
V&A Waterfront dangling delft saucers, bedding; slick leather views of Table Mountain private balconies.
Fashion boutiques and botanical prints and couches; hot-pink and Adam Tihany– tajcapetown.co.za;
live-​music venues line forged iron lamps. pillows), with tasteful designed rooms (bright R2,475.
this historic landmark, capegrace.com; R5,313. accents such as original geometric textiles;
also a gateway to nearby South African artwork. parquet flooring; VILLA ZEST
Robben Island. ELLERMAN kensingtonplace.co.za; freestanding soaking BOUTIQUE HOTEL
HOUSE R3,553. tubs) have made It’s all about the 1970’s
Woodstock You’ll find plenty of this V&A Waterfront at this new Bauhaus-
Design shops and galleries discreet charm MOUNT NELSON hotel a new favorite. inspired building in
make up the artsy suburb at this Edwardian, HOTEL oneandonlycapetown. leafy and trendy Green
of Woodstock, a hub for mountainside retreat The 1899 colonial-style com; R5,985. Point: vintage Polaroid
Cape Town’s creative set. overlooking the structure is showing cameras and Panasonic
Atlantic. The main its age, but a recent TAJ CAPE TOWN Toot-a-Loop radios line
Getting Around mansion has stark- renovation has given You can’t get more the hallways, while
Taxis are easy to hail. Rent white balustrades and the storied hotel new central than the Taj, just rooms are decorated in
a car (drivesouthafrica.co.za) sweeping patios. Tour life: updated Oasis steps from Parliament mod egg chairs and
to reach the Winelands; the terraced gardens, wing rooms are decked and St. George’s shag rugs. villazest.co.
many wineries are and the art gallery, built out in plush red sofas Cathedral. Inside, old za; R1,590.
accessible off Route 62. into the bluff. ellerman. and paintings by local
co.za; R8,000. artists, while chef-led Hotel prices are starting rates for double occupancy.
Shop Our favorite one-of-a-kind
boutiques across Cape Town.
HEATH NASH
The 35-year-old owner of this
open studio in Woodstock is
a champion of sustainability,
repurposing items such as milk
cartons and galvanized wire
into decorative art. We love the
colorful lampshades, made from
hundreds of hand-cut plastic
flowers. heathnash.com.
HOUSE OF MACHINES
Equal parts men’s outfitter,
motorcycle shop, café and bar,
House of Machines caters to
various whims (and tastes). Try
one of the small-batch
bourbons, then shop for a pair
of house-brand jeans and
watch the mechanic at work.
thehouseofmachines.com.
MUNGO & JEMIMA
Come here for a carefully
chosen selection of feminine-
yet-sophisticated women’s wear
and accessories—bold pleated
skirts; patent-leather brogues—
by emerging South Africa–based
designers including Coppelia,
Margot Molyneux and Selfi.
mungoandjemima.com.
O.LIVE
Rupert Smith and Warren
Matthee’s rustic-chic local
housewares shop is an aspiring
decorator’s dream. You can find
District Six Museum.
everything from textured
ceramics to ribbons, natural
soaps and vintage porcelain tea
sets. olivestudio.co.za.
OLIVE GREEN CAT
You’re unlikely to leave this
jewelry boutique empty-handed.
Philippa Green and Ida Elsje
turn out avant-garde treasures—
embellished cuffs; rings with
diamonds suspended in
resin—that make a statement.
olivegreencat.com.
See+Do
1 Whatiftheworld
Gallery
Woodstock’s first art space,
which participates in
major fairs like Frieze New
York and Volta, in Basel,
Switzerland, showcases the
city’s newest generation of
contemporary artists. The
highlights: exhibitions by
local painters such as John
Murray and international
multimedia talents including
renowned illustrator Olaf
Hajek. whatiftheworld.com.
From left: Home décor
on display at O.live, in
Woodstock; outside Mungo
& Jemima, in City Bowl.
Three ways to get your culture fix.
2 District Six Museum
This former Methodist
church was a shelter for
anti-apartheid protesters
during the Sixth Municipal
District’s 1960’s fallout.
Today the museum
hosts a diverse range of
works, from South African
photography and fine
art to living documents
(street signs; books; audio
recordings) that are a
chilling narrative of the
city’s past. districtsix.co.za.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
3 Table Mountain
A 10-minute ride from
downtown brings you to the
base of Cape Town’s landmark
Table Mountain, named
for its distinctive flat top.
An aerial cableway whisks
sightseers to unbeatable
views of Cape Peninsula and
beyond; more-​adventurous
types can reach the summit
via a three-hour hike from
the base up Platteklip Gorge
with outfitter Abseil Africa.
abseilafrica.co.za.
D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 143
CAPE TOWN

From left: Korean fried chicken

with pineapple cannelloni and
miso dressing at Pot Luck Club &
Gallery, in Woodstock; browsing
local produce at Neighbourgoods
Market, also in Woodstock.

Explore the

Eat
Here, six places to sample Cape Town’s
ever-evolving “rainbow cuisine.”
CARNE SA
Braaiing (grilling) is a
national pastime in
South Africa, and no
one does it better than
this locavore steak
house (the meats are
sourced largely from
owner Giorgio Nava’s
ranch in the Karoo).
You can’t go wrong with
the free-range lamb,
braaied over coal, or
the 24-month-aged,
grass-​fed sirloin.
carne-sa.com; R500.
GRAND CAFÉ
& BEACH
The ocean-facing
tables and outdoor
cabanas at this
beachside hangout are
perennially packed with
stylish Capetonians.
What to order: café
classics such as
smoked-trout salad
and flatbread pizzas.
grandafrica.com; R540.
NEIGHBOURGOODS
MARKET
On Saturday mornings,
the city’s hipster
bread makers and
charcutiers gather at
this collection of
high-end artisanal food
stalls in Woodstock.
Pick up pastries, coffee
and crêpes, then grab
a seat at one of the
communal wooden
tables. Or stock up for a
picnic. neighbourgoods
market.co.za.
POT LUCK CLUB
& GALLERY
Chef-owner Luke Dale-
Robert’s low-key tapas
spot is the coastal
port’s most buzzed-
Restaurant prices are approximate rates for dinner for two.
Winelands
Some of South Africa’s
best vineyards are a short
drive from the center
of Cape Town. These four
are worth the detour.
Twenty minutes south of
about restaurant. An carpaccio served with the city, the 182-hectare
airy, loftlike dining pickled eggplant and Groot Constantia (groot​
room decorated with shimeji mushrooms). constantia.co.za) is one
contemporary art theroundhouse of the country’s oldest
sets the backdrop for restaurant.com; R800. wine estates, known for its
his creative dishes, high-quality blends. • From
prepared in an open TEST KITCHEN there, make your way east
kitchen. Don’t miss Pot Luck Club & to Fairview (fairview.co.za),
the pork belly with red Gallery’s sophisticated just outside the historic
cabbage and apple older sister made its town of Paarl; book a
slaw. thepotluckclub. debut three years ago private tasting of the
co.za; R600. with an innovative winery’s single-vineyard
concept. Ingredients bottlings paired with
ROUNDHOUSE such as ginger and yuzu Fairview’s own goat-milk
When restaurant are pickled and poached cheeses. • In the nearby
designer—and jet-​ to intensify their Franschhoek valley,
setting foodie—Adam essence, while dishes Babylonstoren (babylon​
Tihany comes to town, are presented in storen.com) produces
he stops in at this unexpected ways: fruity Viogniers and
onetime Dutch East biltong (cured meat) is Chardonnays. • Moving
India Company topped with plum-cured north, rocky landscapes
guardhouse on Table foie gras; langoustines line the coast—don’t
Mountain. The draw? A come alongside smoked miss Tierhoek (tierhoek.
six-course tasting quail and a corn-and- com), whose high altitude
menu (rib eye with miso velouté. thetest​ and breezy conditions
onion petals; beet kitchen.co.za; R1,080. contribute to the intense
flavors in its Chenin Blancs.

144 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
 From left: Drinks
alfresco on Tjing
Tjing’s terrace; a
salad with orange,
feta, walnuts, dates
and pomegranate
at Hemelhuijs; Sea
Point, along Cape
Town’s waterfront.

Local Take
Get the scoop on the city from
these three Capetonians.

BRAD ARMITAGE ISHAY

Restaurant
entrepreneur and
co-owner of the
House of Machines
“On summer mornings you can
find me catching surf breaks at
Horse Trails, near Big Bay, before
returning to town for a bacon
croissant and fruit salad at Jason
Bakery (jasonbakery.com). My
family and I often pack up the car
and go swimming in the rock
pools at Bakeoven Beach, probably
Cape Town’s best-kept secret. I love
to watch the lights come up on
Table Mountain at dusk. For the
greatest view, head to Tjing Tjing
(tjingtjing.co.za), one of the city’s few
rooftop bars, and order a negroni.”
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y L A U R E N N A S S E F
GOVENDER-YPMA
Food blogger at
foodandthe
fabulous.com
“For a sneaky weekday brunch, I
go to Hemelhuijs (hemelhuijs.co.za;
R790 ), where chef Jacques Erasmus
combines seasonal and classic
ingredients like salmon with daikon
radish. The freshly squeezed fruit
juices served in tall jars are a must.
Kalk Bay is a wonderful place to bring
out-of-towners; be sure to have lunch
at Harbour House (harbour​house.
co.za; R740), which looks out
over the waterfront. The Orphanage
(theorphanage.co.za) cocktail
emporium is a favorite for late-night
drinks; the tapas are equally
outstanding.”
LUVO NTEZO
Head sommelier
at the One&Only
Cape Town hotel
“After an early run along the seafront,
I recharge with breakfast at
Giovanni’s Deliworld (103 Main Rd.;
27-21/434-6893); get the ham-and-
cheese ciabatta sandwich with a
cappuccino. On my days off, I’ll
put the top down on my convertible
and drive out toward Stellenbosch
to visit small, quality wineries such as
Bizoe Wines (bizoe.co.za),
Grangehurst Winery (grangehurst.
co.za) and Rainbow’s End
(rainbowsend.co.za). Along the way,
I stop for a bite at Terroir (kleinezalze.
com; R520 ) at Kleine Zalze farm,
known for its Shiraz.”

Beyond Cape Point

You’ll pass Boulders Beach,
the City home to a colony of African
penguins, before reaching
the Cape of Good Hope
nature reserve (capepoint.
co.za). The view from one
of the peninsula’s highest
points is unparalleled.
Hout Bay
A scenic, cliff-hugging drive
leads to this picturesque
harborside town. Stop
by the late-19th-century
Chapmans Peak Hotel
(chapmanspeakhotel.co.za)
for lunch and order the
fried calamari.
Scarborough
An hour outside central
Cape Town, this seaside
village draws urbanites
seeking a quiet weekend
escape. Stroll the boardwalk
that runs along the beach—​
if it’s windy, you’ll have
only kitesurfers for company.
Last Look Photographed by
Morgan Ommer

Vietnam

Just starting out

Newlyweds from Quy Nhon,
Lang and Hien run a restaurant
specializing in rice dishes. They rent
First portrait this building in the town of Sa Thay
from a local painter and muralist,
A motorbike tour from the northern- lending their café an artistic flair.
most town to the most southerly
brought Morgan Ommer to Nam Dan,
hometown of Ho Chi Minh, where
Mr. Duyen and his wife, ethnic Daos,
posed for their first formal portrait.

Pride of the family

Taylor Swift-fan and top student

An afternoon off
Kim Chi (in white shirt) is a spell Early motherhood offers a reprieve
scholar—the stay-in-school from field labor for these Jarai
program to which the photogapher women in the village Kleng. Perhaps
has dedicated his two-month charity their infants will one day join the
ride. The 15-year-old 10th-grader ranks of the now-4,000 spell
lives with her mom, grandmother scholars in the Central Highlands.
and two sisters in Hue.

146 D E C E M B E R 2 01 3 T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M