Lesson 2 : Taking Client’s Body Measurement

What is this lesson about?

The lesson deals with the preparation of measuring tools and taking body measurement accurately
and recording them based on job the requirements.

What will you learn?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

prepare measuring tools in accordance with the job requirements;

take body measurements of client in sequence according to standard procedure; and

record the body measurements in line with job requirements.

Taking Body Measurements

Measurements are the foundation of pattern drafting. They establish basic
axes which are natural to the body. These axes are then used to
reconstruct the shape of the body onto the paper. They must take with
complete accuracy.

Measurements can be taken without assistance, but the task is easier

when you have someone to help you.

Rules in Taking Body Measurement

 Wear undergarments or bodysuit when measuring.

 Use tape measure that does not stretch.
 Tie a string around your natural waistline.
 Pull the tape snug, but not too tight.
 Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor.
 Take girth measurements, then length
measurements.
 Ask the subject to stand in a relaxed, upright
position in stocking feet.
 Insert two fingers in taking girth measurements.
 Record all measurements on a chart accurately.
How to Measure

Measuring Tools

 Tape measure
 Pencil
 Notebook
 Hem gauge
 Hem Marker

Procedure in Taking Body Measurements

There are several parts of the body to be measured. These are taken in:

 Horizontal measurement
 Vertical measurement
 Circumferential measurement

The horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the figure to the right.

shoulder
Shoulder. Measurement is taken from the tip of the left shoulder to the tip
of the right shoulder, arching slightly to cover the cervical prominence of
the neck bone.

bust point
Bust point width. Measurement is taken across from the tip of the left bust
point to the tip of the right bust point.

1. The circumferential measurement is taken around

the body.

bust

Bust. Measurement is taken around the bust with the tape measure running on the same level in front, at
the back and on the sides.

waist
Waist. Measurement taken around the smallest part of the torso.

hip
First hip. Measurement is taken around the hip level where the stomach is fullest.

Second hip.  Measurement is taken around the hip level where the buttocks are fullest.
 armhole
Armhole. Measurement is taken around the armhole.

arm girth
Arm girth. Measurement is taken around the arm.

The vertical measurement is taken from the top of the body figure to its

base.

figure back

Figure back. Measurement is taken from the center of the back shoulder over the shoulder blade down to
the waistline level.

figure front
Figure front. Measurement taken from the neck point passing over the bust down to the waistline level.
 bust point height
Bust point height. Measurement is taken from the neck point down to the highest point of the bust.

sleeve
Length of sleeve. Measurement is taken from the shoulder point down to the desired length in the arms.

skirt
Length of skirt. Measurement is taken from the waist down to the desired length.

Lesson 2 Activity
How much have you learned?

1. What tools are needed in taking body

measurements?
2. What body measurements should be taken in
drafting a bodice and skirt pattern?
3. How are body measurements taken?
4. Why is accurate body measurement important?
Let us apply what you have learned!

 Task 1

Identify the body measurements referred to in the statement below.

Write your answer in your quiz notebook.

1. Taken from the tip of the left and right shoulder.

2. Taken around the hip level where the stomach is
fullest.
3. Taken from the center of the back shoulder down
to the waistline level.
4. Taken along the whole circumference of the body
at the level of the waistline.
5. Taken around the circumference of the armhole.

Task 2

Get your partner and prepare a measuring tools and let’s find out if you can
follow the three (3) kinds of body measurement; horizontal, vertical and
circumferential. Remember that the accuracy of measurement is very
important.

To evaluate your task:

Exchange with your partner to evaluate your work based on the following
data and to convert your measurements to centimeters.

Horizontal measurement Inches Centimeters

Shoulder
Front chest
Bust distance
Back width

 
 Circumferential measurement Inches Centimeters

Bust
Waist
First hip
Second hip
Armhole
Arm girth

Vertical measurement Inches Centimeters

Figure back
Figure front
Bust height
Blouse length
Length of sleeve
Length of skirt

Checked by: __________________

Not sure on how to go about the activity? Review Lesson 2.

Lesson 3: Drafting Basic / Block Pattern

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What is this lesson about?

The lesson deals with the drafting tools, drafting basic/block pattern and
checking of pattern in accordance with the job requirements and
customer’s specification.
What will you learn?

At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:

1. Prepare and select drafting tools in accordance

with job requirements;
2. Draft basic/block pattern with appropriate tools;
and
3. Check basic pattern based on customer’s
specifications.

Salient Measures in Drafting Patterns

Basic pattern is the “starting point” for Flat-Pattern Designing. It is a simple
pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for freedom of movement.
The basic pattern has five pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt
back and sleeve.

The basic pattern is sometimes called a master or foundation pattern. The

drafted pattern is referred to as the block.

Salient Measures to Observe in Drafting Patterns

1. Be sure to have an accurate division of the

measurement. Use L-square.
2. Use the aid of a hip curve if necessary.
3. Always use the L-square or ruler in making lines.
4. French curve is necessary in shaping the neckline
as well as that of the armhole to produce a perfect
curve.
5. Use weights or dressmaker’s pins so that the
pattern will be moved

Kinds of Pattern
1. Block Pattern – made by drafting from the
measurements which have been carefully taken
from an individual or from a model.
2. Construction pattern – the intervening step
between the block and the final pattern. Designs
 are complicated, construction patterns are
sectioned.
3. Final pattern – provided with the necessary
symbols that will guide the cutter on how to lay out
the pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts, seam
allowances, grain line, center fold, and notches and
other markers are used.

Drafting the Basic Pattern

Drafting Tools:

 Tape measure
 L-square
 Hip curve
 French curve
 Transparent ruler
 Pencil
 Eraser
 Scissor
 Sharpener

Drafting the Back and Front Basic Pattern

Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back and front bodice
pattern.

Draw perpendicular line T

basic bodice pattern

 1-2 =3/4 inch (2cm) down

 1-3 = 4 inches (10 cm)
  1-4 = 5 ½ inches (14 cm)
 2-5 = bust point height measure
 1-6 = back figure
 2-7 = front figure
 8 is the middle of 2 and 7
 Square out 2, 4, 8, 5 and 7 to the right

Back Bodice

back bodice pattern

 1-8B ½ back neck or 2 ½ inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9

inches (7.5 cm). Connect 8B to 2 with a French
curve
 1-9B = ½ shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Square
down 9B
 9B – 10B – 1 3/8 inches (3.5 cm). Connect 8B to
10B
 4-11B = ½ shoulder minus 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
 8-12B = ¼ bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 10B,
11B and 12B with a French curve
 8-13B = ½ bust point width
 6-14B = ½ bust point width. Connect 13B to 14B
 6-15B = ¼ waist + 1 1/8 inches (3 cm). connect
12B to 15B
 14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B
and 17B-18B.
 14B – 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B
and 17B-18B.
  13B – 18B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B
and 17B-18B.
 19 = is the middle of 8B and 10B. Square down 19
 20 = 3 inches (7.5 cm). 21-19, 22-19 = ¼ inch (0.5
cm). Connect 22 to 20 and 21 to 20.
 Fold 16B over 17B
 Connect 6 to 15B
 Fold 22 over 21
 Connect 8B to 10B
 Measure 12B and 15B (side length)
 Side length of back and front bodice should be
equal.

Front Bodice

front bodice pattern

 2-8F = ½ back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm

 2-9F = ½ shoulder. Square down 9F
 9F – 10F = 4.5 cm. connect 8F to 10F
 4-11F = ½ shoulder minus ¾ inch (2 cm).
 8 – 12F = ¼ bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm). Connect 10F,
11F, and 12F with a French curve
 5-13F = ½ bust point width
 7-14F = ½ bust point width. Connect 13F to 14F
 7-15F = ¼ waist + 4cm. Connect 12F to 15F with
dotted line.
 14F – 16F = ¾ inch (2cm).
14F – 17F = ¾ inch (2cm).

 13F – 18F =5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16F-18F,

17F to 18F
 12F – 19F = 3 1/5 inches (8 cm).
 19 F – 20F = difference of 6 and 7
 21 – middle of 19F and 20 F. Connect 21F and 13F
 13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 19F to 20F
to 22F (side dart)
 Fold 20F over 19F
 Connect 12F and 15F with a straight line
 Fold 16F over 17F
 Connect 7F to 15F
 12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back
bodice (side length)

Drafting the Back and Front Skirt Basic

Pattern
Get one-half sheet of pattern paper. Construct a back skirt basic pattern.

Draw perpendicular line T.

basic skirt pattern

 1-2 = 3/8 inch (1 cm).

 1-3 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
 1-4 = 7 inches (18 cm) to 8 ¾ inches (22 cm).
 1-5 = skirt length
 1-6 = middle of 1 and 4
 Square out 3, 6, 4, and 5 to the right
  Square out 2, 6, 4, and 5 to the left

Back Skirt

back skirt pattern

 1-7B = ¼ waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)

 4-8B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
 5-9B = ¼ second hip + 3/8 inch (1cm)
 1-10B = ½ bust point width. Square down 10B
 10B-11B = 5 ½ inches (14 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm)
 10B-12B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
 10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 12B and
13B to 11B
 Fold 12B over 13B and connect 2 to 7B with a hip
curve.
 Connect 7B to 8B with a hip curve
 Connect 8B to 9 B with a straight line

Front skirt
 front skirt pattern

 Front Skirt Square down 10B

 1-7F = ¼ waist + 1 ½ inches (4 cm).
 4-8F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
 5-9F = ¼ second hip + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
 1-10F = ½ bust point width. Square down 10F.
 10F-11F =5 ¼ inches (13 cm) to 5 ½ inches
(14cm).
 10F-12F= ¾ inch (2 cm).
 11F –13F = ¾ inch (2 cm). Connect 12F and 13F
to 11F
 Fold 12F over 13F and connect 3 to 7F with a hip
curve
 Connect 7F to 8F with a hip curve
 Connect 8F to 9 F with a straight line
 5 to 14 = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 14 to 9F with a
hip curve

Drafting the Sleeve Basic Pattern

Get one-fourth sheet of pattern paper. Construct a sleeve. Place the
centerline on a folded pattern paper.
 basic sleeve pattern

 1-2 = sleeve length 7 ½ inches (19 cm) to 7 ¾

inches (20cm)
 1-3 = 4 ½ inches (12 cm)
 Square points 3 and 2 to the right
 1-4 = 3/8 inch (1 cm)
 4-5 = ½ armhole measure
 2-6 = ½ lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
 Connect 5 to 6 and 4 to 5
 Divide line 4-5 into 4 equal parts and mark 7, 8, 9
 7-10 raise 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
 9-11 lower 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
 Connect 4, 10, 8 with a French curve
 Connect 5, 12, 8 with a French curve (for front
sleeve cap)
 8-12 =1/4 inch (0.5 cm).
 13 – center of 11 and 9
 Connect 10, 12, 13, and 5 for back sleeve capline
with a dotted line
 Cut off in the dotted line for back sleeve pattern
 Cut off 12 to 5 and 6 to 5
 Open the sleeve and cut 5, 11, 8 to 10 for front
sleeve pattern

After drafting the basic pattern check it correctly and accurately, especially
the: (1) Measurement and (2) Parts of pattern pieces; and then, cut the
basic pattern following the cutting lines smoothly.

Lesson 3 Activity
How much have you learned?
 1. What are the parts of the foundation pattern?
2. What parts of the body are measured before
drafting a pattern of the basic bodice skirt or
sleeve?
3. Explain the factors that determine a good
foundation pattern.

Let us apply what you have learned!

 This time, show how much you’ve learned from pattern drafting. Be ready
with your IMC, measuring tools or drafting tools and your procedure.

Note: Each one of you will perform basic pattern drafting based on your
IMC. Your drafted patterns should be based on the 5 Parts of Basic Pattern
namely:

1. Back bodice
2. Front bodice
3. Back skirt
4. Front skirt
5. Sleeves

Rubrics in Drafting the following pattern: Back bodice, front bodice,

back skirt, front skirt and sleeves.

Item 5 3 1 Score

Tools were Lack of one tool, Lack of two or  

complete, some were more tools,
appropriate and appropriate and some were
1. Use of Tools
correctly used. correctly used. appropriate and
not correctly
used.

2.Procedure Used  the correct Used the correct Failed to use the  
method. method. correct method.
Procedures Procedures Procedures not
correctly partly followed.
 followed. followed.

3. Pattern All pattern Some pattern All pattern  

details were details were details
correctly inaccurately were not drafted
measured and drafted. correctly and
accurately accurately.
drafted.

4. Speed Finished the Finished the Finished the  

pattern ahead of pattern on time. pattern more
time. than the allotted
time.
Not sure on how to go about the activity? Review Lesson 3.