SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

ASSIGNMENT
TOPIC: DRY WASH EFFECTS ON DENIM FABRIC.

SUBMITTED BY: SUBMITTED TO:

1) NAME: MD. SHAMIM HOSSAIN MINHAZ AHMED
ID: 2017000400065 LECTURER
2) NAME: REYAD AHAMED RAKIB
ID: 2017000400068
3) NAME: MD. SHAKURUL ISLAM
ID: 2017000400120
4) NAME: MD. MOHI UDDIN
ID: 2017000400122

BATCH: 34th
SUBJECT: GARMENTS MFG. TECHNOLOGY
 DRY WASH EFFECTS ON DENIM FABRIC

Denim:
Denim is a sturdy cotton twill textile in
which the weft passes under two or
more warp threads. This twill weaving
produces the familiar diagonal ribbing
of the denim that distinguishes it from
cotton duck. It is a characteristic of any
indigo denim that only the warp
threads are dyed, whereas the weft
threads remain plain white. As a result
of the warp-faced twill weaving, one
side of the textile then shows the blue
warp threads and the other side shows
the white weft threads. This is why blue
jeans are white on the inside. This type of dyeing also creates denim's fading
characteristics, which are unique compared to every other textile.

Types of denim:
1. Bubble gum denim

2. Colored denim

3. Crushed denim

4. Denim from fox fiber

5. Marble denim

6. Ecru denim

7. Reverse denim

8. Vintage denim

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Characteristics of Denim Fabric:
1. Warp yarns are colored (usually with indigo, vat, blue or sulphur black).

2. Structure: right hand or left hand twill, i.e. z/s-twill of 2/1 or 3/1
construction.

3. Usually made of cotton yarns of coarser count (7s, 10s, 14s, 16s, etc).

4. Coarser cloth (weight lies between 6-14 oz/sq. yds) and used for pant and
warm jackets.

5. It is for long wearing.

6. It is very strong and durable.

Denim washing:
Denim garment (Jeans) washing or denim washing is one of the most widely
used finishing treatments that have vast usage, due to its effects on
appearance and comfort. Without washing, the denim garment is
uncomfortable to wear, due to its weaving and dyeing effects. It essentially
needs a finishing treatment to make it softer, suppler and smooth which
enhance wearer’s comfort.

In denims, garment washing is done to produce effects like color fading with
or without patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling,
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softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc. Denim washing is known as
one of the finishing treatment that has vast usage because of creating special
appearance and updating clothes.

Objects:
 Gives aesthetic finish

 Enhances the appeal

 Provides strength

 With time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which

artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate.

 With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the

person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life.

 This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than

pre-distressed denim.

Types of machine used in washing plant:

1. Sample washing Machine (Horizontal / Vertical Type)

2. Washing Machine (Side loading)

3. Washing Machine (Front loading)

4. Hydro extractor Machine

5. Dryer Machine (Steam)

6. Dryer Machine (Gas)

7. Chemical Mixture Machine

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8. Industrial Oven (Gas/Electric)

9. Boiler

10. Submersible Pump

11. Grinding Machine

12. Tagging Machine

13. Steam chamber for crinkle

14. E.T.P (Effluent Treatment Plant)

15. Generator

16. Sand Blasting Gun

17. Sand Blasting chamber

18. Spray gun and dummy

19. Screw compressor

20. Laser draw

Types of finishing/wash process:

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Dry wash process:
Garment finishing is one the process applied on garment in order to get a
desired look or appearance of the garment, with the introduction of new
technologies and equipment it has been fairly easy to obtain desired shades
and results. For finishing of denim fabrics, a range of techniques are used.
They all are projected at new possible effects of fabric appearance, namely
mill wash or rinse wash, moon wash, over dyed-look, stone wash, sand wash
bleach, damaged-look, scrubbed look , sand-blast, PP spray , whisker Effect ,
3D effects and etc. Especially, the dry finishing creates many effects on denim
fabric, it stimulates the customers to buy and also enhances the market
potential of the denim market. We can say that dry finishing has taken denim
to the next level, the next generation denim.

The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety
of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims
is as much an art as it is a technique. The direction in fashion is varied across
all areas particularly in denim dry process, whether worn or torn to
wrinkled or pressed; these trends can appeal to a wide range of consumers.
These can be achieved by variety of denim dry processing techniques which
are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface
dye there by producing different wash-down looks to the denim fabrics.

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Types of dry wash process:
1. Hand Scraping.

2. Sand Blast.

3. Whisker.

4. Stone wash

5. Laser Whisker.

6. Destroy.

7. PP Spray

8. Tagging.

9. Grinding.

10. Crinkle.

11. 3-D Crinkle.

12. PP Rubbing.

13. Resin spray.

14. Heat Pressing.

15. Pocket Marking.

16. Seam Marking.

17. Center Crease.

18. Crease Mark over all.

19. Bleach Spot/PP Spot.

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Now we are describing some of them:

Hand scraping:
Material: Emery paper

Instrument: Rubber balloon, dummy.

Method:

Hand scraping is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments
to get distress look. Location can be front thigh & back seat or it can be
overall / global application as per standard. Emery paper (silicon) is being
used to scrap the garments in particular placement. Emery paper comes in
different number generally starts from 40 till 600 and above, higher the
number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment
industry from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely
used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the
garments. The most important factor is to select right number of paper
according to the fabric strength & intensity need. Feathering /merging white
sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look natural & not
artificial. Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect
(horizontal or vertical it’s up to operator’s convenience), even it can be done
on plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform
in order to get better results.

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SAND BLASTING:
Material: Aluminum sand or silicon sand.

Method:

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high
speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and
most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the
garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the
effect is appeared very similar to the worn out jeans. Different types of dry
washing process on denim.

Whisker:
Material: Sand Paper

Instrument: Cutter Knife, Pattern Board, Rubber balloon etc.

Method:

Whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The
idea of whiskers is taken form the worn out lines and impression patterns
generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a
number of patterns can be finding consequential to fabric, body shape of
user or sitting posture. Various methods are designed to create this
impression on jeans. Mostly rubber balloons are available with different

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pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get
impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with
sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled
labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric
may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. But this method is more
successful in industries where the production is consistent to articles i.e
similar articles are produced in large quantities. This method is famous for
high quality and cost effectiveness.

Stone wash:
Material: Pumice stone.

Instrument: Washing machine.

Method:

In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large
washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand
and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and
porosity make these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive
and requires high capital investment. Pumice stones give the additional
effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like
sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

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Destroy:
Material: Emery Paper, Stone Tools

Instrument: Destroy Machine, Hacksaw Blade, Knife, Needle etc.

Method:

One of the most popular distressing effects currently, ‘Destruction’ is an art

which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of
stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can
also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn
as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp
yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique &
different than others.

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Potassium Permanganate (P.P) Spray:
Material: Emery Paper, KMnO4

Instrument: P.P Spray Gun, Rubber Balloon etc.

Method:

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on

sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray
is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast.
Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans
garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate
spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on
drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate
spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely
then it is considered to ready for next process. It is always followed by
neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used
neutralizer.

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Tagging:
Material: Plastic or Nylon Tag Pins.

Instrument: Tagging Machine

Method:

Tagging or more commonly tag pinning is a very popular in fashion style in

denim garment now a days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag
machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment
to get contrast. Tagging is done at unwashed condition of garments. It is done
by tag gun or plastic staple machine which binds or fold the edge of the
garments. Manually by needle and thread. After wash the effect is visible.
Sometimes it creates hole on the edge. Usually tag pin machines are used to
attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and proceeds as;
garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds. Number of
folds can be two to four or five in regular in tacking. These tag guns are not
especially designed for heavy folds like we do in tacking so durability of the
gun is a consistent problem.

Grinding:
Instrument: Pen type stone tools.

Method:

Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running
against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different

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make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which
runs with pneumatic system. Grinding is done of garments by pen type of
stone tools. It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it

tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are utilized to
work on garments with a few amendments to their design.

3D Crinkle:
Materials: Resins, softeners

Instrument: 3D crinkle machine, crushing machine.

Method:

It is one of the important finishing treatment on denim garment which is

applied after wet process. Bringing 3D CREASE effect permanently on denim
garments by treating with or without resins are called 3D crinkle. This
process is done manually or semi automatically using resins like low
formaldehyde type resins which make crosslinks between cellulosic bonds
and when the fabric deforms or folds or losses its normal orientation, those
chemicals prevents the transformation to normal position and that causes
wrinkles or creases. Various supporting auxiliaries are used for better
penetration of resins and softeners used for softness.

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 Latest technology on dry wash effect
Laser effect on denim:
Lasers have long been used in the
apparel industry for laser marking (for
surface fading), laser welding (for
joining two or more layers of fabric
through melting it), laser engraving
(controlled cutting to a depth), laser
cutting (for cutting through the fabric).
It is a device that generates an intense
beam of coherent monochromatic light
by stimulated emission of photons from
excited atoms and molecules. CO2 RF
discharge excited laser source is
commonly used in the textile industry
which has a wavelength of around 10.2-
10.8µm. With laser technology, the
traditional method of discoloration, abrasion, decoration, marking,
engraving, and cutting can be totally replaced. Modern laser machines are
equipped with z-axis automatic up & down motion to engraves various
shadowed and textured patterns with distinct layer and color transition.

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Denim laser finishing process:
The process of denim finishing
starts with the creation of a
digital file and illustrated in
such a way that the laser can
interpret. With this only, the
garment becomes ready for the
process. The garment can be
kept on a flat surface or
vertically stretched for the
laser to engrave over it. The
technology has been able to
replicate most of the wash
Fig: Laser machine

effects with the various shade like the stone wash, mill wash, moon wash,
bleach, PP spray, monkey wash, cat whiskers, snow wash, holing, tinting and
so on.

Laser effect on denim:

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Advantages of laser treatment on denim:
1. Novelties of this system are that:

2. It results in the water-free fading of denim.

3. It is an eco-friendly and economical process.

4. It can create local abrasion and fabric breaks, a used look and a moustache
with excellent reproducibility and high productivity.

5. Because it is an automatic system, the chances of human error are slim.

6. The design is electronically translated onto the fabric, which avoids the
need for photographic method of making screen for screen printing or
serigraphy. The machine is simple and compact, it requires low maintenance
and cleaning, and is extremely safe and reliable.

Disadvantages of laser fading on denim:

1. Primary investment is very high, that is a major problem for small and
medium size industries.

2. Skilful operator is needed, which might be a disadvantage in some

particular circumstances

3. Producing natural effect is difficult and often requires some manual touch
after the fading to give the product natural look.

4. The laser beam itself and the produced fumes are health hazardous.

5. Maintenance and servicing of the laser system may be troublesome in

some circumstances.

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Conclusion:
The scope of denim dry finishing is very broad. Only innovative products will
be able to open up new markets and new horizons for denim industry. To
achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development.
Globalization has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every
industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and
price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who
produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and
prosper.

The driving force for change in denim dry finishes is the need for a
competitive strategy by cost conscious finisher to add the value.
Compatibility is essential to provide short multifunctional finishes that can
be applied simultaneously. Innovative and enhanced results are possible
through application of various types of denim finishing, which in turn would
bring greater financial profits. To achieve this, the garment manufacturers
are required to develop a futuristic vision and take appropriate measures to
overcome the problems of denim processing.

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