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May God Bless You and Keep You Safe.: Wayne
May God Bless You and Keep You Safe.: Wayne
Now, due to
the worldwide economic collapse, they are my Gift to you.
My hope is that you will enjoy these great little airplanes as
much as I have enjoyed designing them for you.
If you enjoy these planes, please help to ensure this site stays
on-line and these airplane manuals remain available for all to
enjoy. Any amount you donate is greatly appreciated.
Piper Cherokee
FROM CANS !
Wingspan: 17”
Length: 14”
Height: 4 1/2” PA-28-140
T
Can be made from most
RE
12 or 16 oz Beverage Cans.
C
SE
TOP www.bcair.com
Copyright © 2013 B. C. Air Originals
Welcome to the B. C. Air Originals Squadron.
This booklet contains complete step by step instructions for building the B. C. Air
Originals - Piper Cherokee. Before you start building your first plane it is sug-
gested that you review the entire set of plan directions. Once you have previewed
the construction steps you should start collecting the cans that you want to use to
make your first plane. These plans are designed to be used with most any 12 or 16
oz. beverage can. Always use clean, unscratched and undented cans for the best
looking planes.
Since the building of these planes requires the cutting of cans and the use of sharp
tools, CHILDREN SHOULD NEVER ATTEMPT THE CONSTRUCTION OF
THESE PLANES WITHOUT ADULT SUPERVISION AND GUIDANCE.
CONSUMER ACCEPTS ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURY IN-
CURRED IN THE BUILDING OF THESE PLANES.
It is not necessary to follow all the building steps in the order presented. Such as, if
you want to make the Wings, or the Tail Section first, you can do that and then set
them aside until you need them. However, until you understand the construction of
these planes, it may be easier to follow the steps in the order listed. Your very first
step should be to make a copy of all the templates. All templates are drawn to
scale. Using a sheet of mylar (Clear Plastic) will enable you to re-use your tem-
plates again and again. There is no limit to the number of planes you can build with
these plans.
We, at B. C. Air Originals, will make every effort to assist you in answering any
questions you may have about the construction of these planes. Please feel free to
contact us ANY TIME at command@bcairoriginals.com.
Thank you for your interest in the B. C. Air Originals and have FUN!
D. P. (Wayne) Mathis
When you print your manuals be sure that your printer is set on it’s MAX
printing area to ensure that all the templates print out to the correct size.
The standard 12 oz Can, here in the US, measures 2 1/2" in diameter. If the
Cans you’re using to make your plane are smaller or larger, then here’s
what you do..... Measure the diameter of your Can and find what percent-
age of 2 1/2" it is.... I.e. If your Can measures only 2 1/4" (in diameter)
then 2 1/4" is = to 90% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all the templates
at 90% instead of at 100%. If your Can measures 3" (in diameter) then 3"
is = to 120% of 2 1/2" so you would print out all of the templates at 120%.
etc.
Some of these models were originally designed in 1984. Since then the
building techniques of these planes has changed over time. I.e. many of the
planes no longer require the use of the wooden former “F-1 & F-2”. We
simply glue the “B-2’s” onto the BACK (BOTTOM) of the Can “B-1” or
use corrugated cardboard in place of the wood. (See http://
www.bcair.com/BT/nwf1.htm and http://www.bcair.com/BT/nf1.htm )
Once you’ve reviewed your manual and you’re ready to start your first
plane, go here > http://www.bcair.com/BT/ < and look over the Builder’s
Tips. These are building tips sent in from builders all over the world. They
will help you to make these planes easier and faster. Bookmark this page as
it is NOT accessible from the main web site.
You can obtain the plastic props used on these planes from your
local Hobby Shop or here’s where I get my props on-line > http://
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=QBC&V=MAS <.
Here’s where I get my Wooden Propellers on-line > http://
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/
wt0
i097p?FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submti=Submti+AdvancedSearch
FVSEARCH=PROPELLERS+++&CATEGORY=QB&MANUFACTURER=TOP&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch
<
Any 5-7" prop, with any pitch, will work on these planes.
The following is a list of tools and materials I use to build these planes.
You may find that you do not need all of the tools that I use.
Use whatever works best for you.
Push Pin.
Hot glue gun.
Awl (old screw driver sharpened to a point).
Wire cutter. Rat-Tail-File
X-acto knife (hobby knife) (box opener).
Scissors
Small Paper Cutter, Ruler (straight edge).
Felt tip pen (any color).
Needle nose pliers.
Materials -
Aluminum Cans (beer, pop, soda, juice, etc) any 12 oz. size will work.
Bottle caps.
Corrugated Cardboard.
Tape (any kind) & Glue (2-Part Epoxy works best).
Mylar (Clear plastic).
Copper Coated Welding Rod, Music Wire or any other straight wire .
(2 sizes - 1/16” & 3/32”)
Cutting Cans
The building of these planes requires that the Tops and/or Bottoms of beverage cans be
cut off. While you can decide for yourself which method you use to accomplish this,
most builders use a Dremal® Tool in a fashion similar to that shown below.
Again, you can use any other method at your disposal to remove the Tops and Bottoms
of the cans. Use whatever means you feel most comfortable with.
ALWAYS USE PROTECTIVE HAND & EYE GEAR WHEN CUTTING CANS!
Once you’ve selected which Cans your plane will be made out of, take one Can and hold it firmly at
it’s bottom. Using your wire snips, cut through the ring at the top of the Can.
Now grab the ring with your wire snips and PULL the top off the Can. The top will normally tare off
right where the Can begins to taper inward to the ring.
Continue PULLING until the top of the Can comes off. Then cut down the side of the Can with your
scissors. Next use a smaller scissor to cut the bottom off the Can.
6
SEE ALL THE BUILDERS TIPS ON-LINE AT > www.bcair.com/BT
This Plane takes a total
of 10-11 Cans to make.
STEP # 2
cut the Tops and Bottoms off All Cans and
open them up as shown here. (See Page 6)
STEP # 3
board.
rru
gat
ion
Ru
ns-
->
<--
Co
rru
gat
ion
Ru STEP # 4
ns-
->
Score CPF where indicated.
CPF
CPF
CPF
-->
Run ation
STEP # 5
g
s
orru
Cut TWO pieces of corrugated Cardboard 1 1/2” x 3 3/8”
<--C
and place them both in the bottom of the CPF.
NOTE that the corrugation of these two pieces
runs from Side to Side, NOT Front to Back.
STEP # 6
CPF
CPF
<--Corrugation Runs-->
WSF
Template # 2
EM
<--Corrugation Runs-->
Template # 3
STEP # 7 Cut Templates # 2 & 3 (Page 33) from corrugated cardboard as shown.
EM
STEP # 8
Glue EM inside
CPF
CPF as shown.
EM
(I used my Hot Glue Gun for this.)
STEP # 9
WSF
Glue WSF onto EM as shown.
EM
WSF
www.bcair.com
EM
EM
STEP # 10
2”
STEP # 11
Glue on INSIDE
Can
Cellophane Tape
Double-Sided Tape
STEP # 13
Template # 4
Cut Template # 4 (TC - page
34) from the Two Cans that you
married together in Step # 12.
<-
-C
TCF
or
ru
ga
tio
n Ru
ns
-->
<--Corrugation Runs-->
STEP # 15
Cut out Template # 5 (TCF), page 33, from
corrugated cardboard and put a “thin” beed
of hot glue around the edge. Insert the TCF
into the TC and glue it in place.
TCF
(I used my Hot Glue Gun for this.)
www.bcair.com
TC
Completed Tail Cone
CPF
CPF
STEP # 17
Use your BLACK Sharpie and blacken the front of the EM.
WSF
CPF
EM
STEP # 18
A B C Take any clear 1
liter plastic bottle
and remove the
label (A). Mark
the bottle as
shown (B). Cut
the bottom of the
bottle off (C), then
cut up the side of
the bottle (D) and
cut the top off (E).
D E
STEP # 20
Paint the INSIDE of the WS black.
STEP # 19
Trace Template # 6, page 36, onto the plastic
bottle as shown and cut out the WS.
Template # 6 WS
WS
Trim EM if necessary.
EM
EM
WS SLIT WS SLIT
CPF
WS
www.bcair.com
STEP # 23
STEP # 26
Cut out Template # 8, WS
EC (page 35), and glue
it into it’s shape as you
did with the TC. EC
Glue the EC onto the
CPC and WS as
shown. (I used Hot
Glue on the INSIDE for
this.) CPC
STEP # 27
Take seven (7) Pull Tabs and glue them into a
stack. Use a strip of tape to hold them in place
until the glue is dry. Make Two (2) stacks.
These will be the Engine Cylinders.
STEP # 28
Glue one Engine
Cylinder to either side
of the EM as shown.
EM
STEP # 29
EC
FEC
EC
FEC
www.bcair.com
EC
EC
FEC FEC
This is how I do it.
2
1
After tracing the
FEC onto the
INSIDE bottom of a
Can bottom that
I’ve cut off, (page
6), I “slowly” cut
away the Can.
I’ve taken an ordinary scissors
and rounded off the ends.
Then trim as
needed.
7
Once I have it
pretty much 8
the way I
want it, I use
a “rat-tail-
file” to
smooth out
the edges.
1/4”
STEP # 30
WCBAF
Cut Two Template # 10,
WCB, and Two Template Top Left Wing
# 11, (page 36), WCBAF,
from corrugated card-
WCB
board. <--Corrugation Runs-->
1/4”
Glue/Stick the WCBAF
onto the Top of the WCBAF
WCB, 1/4” back from the
leading edge.
STEP # 31
www.bcair.com
CPC
CPC
1 1/2” 1 1/2”
These holes should go through the Top and the Bottom pieces of cardboard in Step # 5
STEP # 34
Take TWO pieces of 3/32” Insert the Two Wing Spar
rod, 10” long, and bend as Rods through the holes
shown. you made in Step 32 and
3/4” glue them in place.
5” 5”
(I used 2-Part Epoxy for
this.)
Be sure
Wing
Spars are
parallel
with each
other.
STEP # 35
www.bcair.com
<-Corrugation Runs->
Cut Template # 12, VS, (page 34), and
VS Template # 13, HS, (page 35), from corru-
gated cardboard and cover with Cans as
you did the wings.
<--Corrugation Runs-->
HS STEP # 37
VS
VS
1/2” 1” 3/4”
HS
HS
HS
STEP # 38
VS Holes
1”
3/4”
1”
3/4”
1/2”
1/2”
HS Holes
STEP # 39
www.bcair.com
VS Holes
HS Hole HS Hole
STEP # 40
(I used 2-Part Epoxy for this.) Rod will go through the HS Holes
that you made in the Tail Cone.
HS
STEP # 41
VS
HS
STEP # 42 (OPTIONAL)
Right Wing
Nav Light
Left Wing
Nav Light
1 1/2”
5”
(2 1/2” either side of center line)
STEP # 43
(2) You can also use Rubber Model Plane Wheels like these.
On this plane I used “Sullivan Tailwheels”
from Tower Hobbies.
1” Stock # LXFU87 for the Main Gear
3/4” Stock # LXFU86 for Nose Gear
www.bcair.com
Take 2 pieces of 3/32” rod 2 3/4” long and bend as shown for the Main Wheels Landing
Gear (MWLG).
Take 1 pieces of 3/32” rod 3 1/2” long and bend it as shown for the Nose Wheel Land-
ing Gear (NWLG).
OPTIONAL: Use 1/2” pieces of 3/32” Tubing as shock absorbers.
NWLG
MWLG
1/2”
1/2” 1/2”
1/2” 1 3/4” 1/2”
1” 1/2”
1/2” 1”
1/2”
3/4” 3/4”
3/4”
STEP # 46
Insert MWLG into the holes in the bottom of the wings and
work them “through” the WCB into place. Glue in place.
123
Wheel123
123 12345678901234567890
123 12345678901234567890
123
MWLG 12345678901234567890
123 12345678901234567890
Wheel 123
123 12345678901234567890
123 MWLG
12345678901234567890
123
12345678901234567890
123
Bottom Can 12345678901234567890
123
12345678901234 12345678901234567890
123
12345678901234 12345678901234567890
WCB
12345678901234
WCB 12345678901234567890
Top Can
STEP # 47
Secure Wheels onto the Landing Gear.
Insert NWLG into the hole in the bottom of
EC and “INTO” the EM. Glue in place.
STEP # 48
Install prop onto PS and secure in place with a nut.
Cut off excess PS. Add a POINTED “GOB” of
Hot Glue to the front of the prop and paint it Black.
On this plane I used a prop from Tower Hobbies (www.towerhobbies.com). Prop # LXZ947
WSF
1 7/8”
Template # 1
CPF
3 1/2” Template # 5
TCF
1 3/4”
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Templates # 2
EM
33
Template # 9
FEC
TAB
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Template # 4
7 3/8” TC
Blue Lines are Score Lines
OVER TAB
Template # 12
VS
34
Leading Edge
Template # 13
HS
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TAB
TAB
Template # 7
CPC
OVER TAB
OVER TAB
35
Template # 11 WCBAF
3”
Template # 10
WCB
Flip to get Left and Right Wing.
A
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B
WS
Windshield
Template # 6
Match up A with B
36