UNDERSTANDING

APPAREL QUALITY
ASSIGNMENT-II
SUBMITTED BY:
POOJA KUMARI
BFT/18/1347
SUBMITTED TO:
MR. JAYANT KUMAR
IN
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
NIFT, PATNA

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to thank National Institute of Fashion Technology for giving us the
opportunity to take up the project.

Foremost we are sincerely thankful to our subject faculty Mr. Jayant Kumar for
giving us feedbacks and continuous guidance throughout the semester. This could
not have been achieved without his support.

We also acknowledge a deep sense of gratitude, the encouragement and

inspiration received from our faculty members.

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 INTRODUCTION
A garment piece that does not meet the customer requirement is a defective garment. A
defective garment can be defined another way that a garment which has unacceptable defects
or flaws is a defective piece. A defect might be related to specs (variation of measurement),
related to raw material quality (fabric and trims used in the garment), shade variation or
stitching defects, construction defects or performance defects.
Buyers (brands) point view, even if a wrong label (size label, content label, main label) is found
in a garment, garment is considered as a defective piece. Buyers want all garments to be made
following their specification and instructions. Variation of specification is a defective piece,
whatever it is. Manufacturers need to correct such defects before final inspection to eliminate
defective pieces from the shipment.

WHAT IS DEFECT ZONE IN GARMENT?

Generally defects are classified into three categories in the eye of buyer’s inspection. These are
Critical, Major, and Minor defects. In some cases, a major defect can be considered as minor
defect based on the location of the defect in a garment. This location is called as zone.
Garments zoning is done for get a right evaluation of the garment during visual inspection in
the apparel industry. Location of defects zone of garments is not only helpful for the garments
factory inspection, but it also helpful for a consumer who will try to purchase any types of
ready-made garments on the basis of visual inspection.

Defect Zone Classification of Garments during Visual Inspection :

In order to conduct inspection, garments are divided into a number of zones. A garment is
divided into three zones. They are:

 Zone-A : Most noticeable

 Zone-B : Average noticeable
 Zone-C : Least noticeable

 Zone-A is the most important part of the garment, zone-B is the next most important
area and zone-C is the least important zone. For instance, a seam puckering or shading
in Zone-A makes a garment totally reject while the same defect in Zone-B impairs
functional quality to a lesser extent and in Zone-C to the least extent. In the 3rd case,
the garment is nearly perfect and sale-able. 

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For a shirt (Sample):
At the front sleeves and upper front is considered as zone ‘A’ and lower front considered as
zone ‘B’. On the back of the garment, under arms and back bottom is considered as zone ‘C’.

Figure: Different zones of shirt

ZONE A

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 ZONE B

ZONE C

A ZONE DEFECTS:
1. Collar

Defects Causes Remedies

Uneven Seam allowance Operator’s fault Stitch should be done very
carefully.

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 Strips mismatching Improper marking
Uneven Stitching Operator’s fault
Bubbles formation May be result of a poor
bonding of the interface
material during
manufacturing.
Improper Marking
Unequal dimensions
Overstretched fabric
Uneven (edges of collar) Improper marking
Operator’s fault
Cutting faults
Marking should be done
accurately.
Stitch should be done
accurately.
Fusing should be fused
properly before stitching.
Proper marking with skilled
stitching.
Accurate tension over fabric.
Marking should be accurate
with proper techniques of
stitching.
Appropriate Equipments

2. Front Placket

Defects Causes Remedies

Shade Variation
Baggy (fullness) at collar
Wavy/ staggered stitching
Mismatch of shades in
garment parts.
Improper marking
Operator’s fault
Button holes are not
according to button
placement.
Stitches are not straight.
Batches of different shades
should be handle carefully.
Marking should be accurate
(in terms of measurement
& relative positioning of
button & buttonholes) with
proper techniques of
stitching.
Feed mechanism should be
change.
Operator training.

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3. Labels

Defects Causes Remedies

Not placed at (with the Improper marking Marking should be
reference of centre back) Operator’s fault accurate(in terms of
measurement & relative
positioning of labels & tags)
with proper techniques of
stitching

4. Buttonhole

Defects Causes Remedies

Extra thread Improper inspection Inspection should be
proper.
Floated on the seam Appropriate equipments
should be used to avoid
this.
Improper Stitch Inaccurate setting of Machine setting should be
machine accurate.
Wrong type of thread Thread should be inspected
in terms of tenacity, count,

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 ply, twist etc.

B ZONE DEFECTS:

1. Armhole

Defects Causes Remedies

Untrimmed thread Operator’s fault Shirt should well trim after
packing.

Strip Mismatching Improper marking Mark.ing should be accurate

Misaligned seam Improper pattern making & Pattern should be accurately
marking developed with accurate
marking.
Operators fault Should be aligned with skilled
stitching
Improper stitch (not Operators fault Should be done with proper
uniformly distant with workmanship.
armhole seam

2. Yoke

Defects Causes Remedies

Mitering defect Improper marking Marking should be accurate
Seam Puckering Improper thread tension. Bobbin and thread tension
should be checked before
stitching.

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 3. Side Seam Defect
Defects Causes
Misaligned seam Improper pattern making &
operator’s fault
Mitering defect Improper marking
ZONE C DEFECTS:-
1. Armhole seam
Defects Causes
Raw edge Operator’s fault.
Roping (puckering) Stitching defect (operator’s
fault-applying too much
tension)
Pattern-making & marking
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Remedies
Pattern should be accurate
with accurate marking, should
be aligned with skilled
stitching.
Marking should be accurate.
Remedies
Stitching should be proper
Folders/templates may be
used.
Should be done with proper
skill & workman ship
Patterns should be accurately
 defect developed with proper
marking.
Machine fault Properly check the settings of
machine & its components.

2. Side seam slit

Defects Causes Remedies

Raw edge Operator’s fault Stitching should be proper.
Broken Stitch Appears due to improper Proper machine usage.
trimming or machine usage.

3. Sleeve placket

Defects Causes Remedies

Raw edge Operator’s fault Stitching should be proper.

4. Cuff seam

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Defects Causes Remedies
Top stitch not covering the Operator’s fault Stitching should be proper
back fabric of cuff seam Slippage of fabric during top Folders/templates may be
stitch. used

4. Back & front( lower area)

Defect Causes Remedies

Stain Due to dirt around by the
time of packaging.
Drop Stitch (in hem) Due to improper functioning
of machine.
Raw edge Operator’s fault
Crease marks Due to high speed of machine
running .
Improper ironing
Make sure fabric should not
have a stain before packaging
and pack in clean area.
Needle plate, presser foot and
feed dog should be check
periodically for damages.
Stitching should be proper.
Reducing the machine load.
Proper ironing on fabric.

TRIM DEFECTS:

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Trims and accessories are extra components used to make a garment except fabric. To achieve
desired quality apparel or clothing, proper trimmings and accessories inspection process have
to follow.

Defects are given below:

1. Unmatched color of thread

2. Broken button
3. Wrong labels
4. Improper size of the labels
5. Printing mistake of labels and cartons
6. Broken poly bag
7. Wrong hanger

Remedy:-

This type of defects occurred due to unawareness. That is why during production the
garments should be checked properly (in line inspection) and the booking of trims and
accessories must be given as like as artwork.

Trims used in shirt:

 Threads
 Buttons
 Interlining
 Labels

Critical:

 Missing care label

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 (Wash care instructions)
 Measurement error on main label
(Very big error as customers buys the cloth which not fit to them)

Major:

 Broken button
 Shade variation(in button)
 Missed button
 Lining too long

Minor:

 Main label insecurely stitched

IN LINE INSPECTION:-
In-line Quality Inspection means inspecting goods at the time of production, so that any defect
occurring at this time may be located at the earliest stage or as is called at needle point and
may be easily repaired. This process is done instead of checking at the end of the process. Thus
repair becomes easy and cost remains lower. Thus garments defects rate remains at minimal.

IDENTIFICATION OF INLINE QUALITY CHECKPOINTS:

S.N Location Inspect for

o
1. Collar Both points are same or not, check is match accurately or
not, stitch, collar flat or not.
2. Size Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is correct
or not.
3. Button & button hole Placed in right place or not, evenness of gap between one
button to other, stitch is done correctly, are there any
broken button or not
4. Pocket(not in my shirt) Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket position,
size, stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitches.
5. Hem Stitch, are there any puckering or not, edge free from
stitch.
6. Yoke & shoulder Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch.
7. Side Seam Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge.
8. Cuffs Attachment Strips or check matching, top stitch, flat or not.
9. Finished appearance Threads edge comes out or not, are there any oil spot or
not, fabric fault, color matching, strip matching.

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Measurement Checking:

Size(Medium) Measurement +/- Minor Major Critical

Chest 18 ½ Ok
Length 27 Ok
Waist 17 ½ +½ X
Sleeves 22 ½ Ok
Shoulder 16 ½ +¼ X

References:-

https://garmentsmerchandising.com/trimmings-accessories-inspection-process/

https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2015/11/what-is-defective-garment-explained.html?
m=1

https://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/01/defects-zone-apparel-inspection.html?m=1

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