Hybrid Roubo/Nicholson Workbench

Best Workbench Ever?

For this Project you will need.
6= 4x4 , 8ft untreated pine (one will be used for gap stop)

16= 2x6, 6ft untreated pine

1= 2x12 6ft untreated pine

2= 2x4 8ft untreated pine

2= 1x8 8ft untreated pine

The cutlist is as follows:

To get started
First joint one edge of all 2x6 material, then rip the other edge at the table saw
to ensure a flat, square board. Glue 8 of the 2x6s on edge together to create
one half of your bench top. The resulting half should be about 5” thick and
about 65” long You will want to leave extra length and thickness to be
trimmed . Allow the glue to cure overnight.
Clean up the two halves
There will almost certainly be movement in your glue up. This is why we left
that extra material so we can get the bench top half to our actual desired
finished size. Plane and cut the two halves to the final dimensions. Ensure that
both halves are identical.
Join the two Halves
Use the small 4x4 blocks cut at 5” (3) and drill 4 holes on each side for dowels.
Use doweling jig to mark the opposite hole to drill in the bench top half. Glue
all dowels into place and clamp. Allow to dry overnight.
Start on the base
Mill all your 4x4 material so there are no bows, cups or twists. In my process
this netted a final dimension of 3.25” for my lumber. Begin layout of the
mortise and tenon joints that will bring the base together. Cut all joints and
glue components together, allow glue to dry overnight. Make sure to leave the
tenons that will go through the top LONGER THAN NEEDED by about an inch
or so, so you can trim it flush once the two are joined.
Join the top to the base
I personally used the base itself on top of the assembled workbench top to
layout the through mortises that joint the top and base. If you are more
confident in your measurements and that your material has not moved at all
due to humidity you may use layout tools to find where to cut the large
mortise for the tenon on top of the leg. Proceed to cut the mortise and set the
top on the base. Unless you are superman, you WILL NEED HELP!
True up the workbench top
Cut the tops of the through tenons flush with the top of the workbench top.
Then proceed to make the gap stop from the last remaining 4x4. You will need
to align the gap stop with the smaller 4x4 blocks that are joining the two
halves and notch them out appropriately so that the gap stop sits flush with
the rest of the bench top. I chose to add a couple notches on either side of the
main dado so that i could shift the gap stop to one side or the other and it
would sit proud of the benchtop surface either a half inch or an inch and a
half to accommodate different stock thicknesses. What you’ve accomplished
by doing this is essentially a planing stop that is the length of your bench.
Plane and or sand the entire top flat again.
Build up Nicholson Apron
Now it is time to build up the Nicholson side of the hybrid. Add the 1, 1x12’
with the top edge flush with the bottom of the top and the edges of the top
and screw into place. Then add the 2x4s along the face of the legs and the
long stretcher in the base to create an even plane all along the Nicholson side
of the bench. Mark where you want the dog holes and drill halfway from the
face and halfway from the back to reduce tearout.
Add all Accesories
Now its time to add all vises and i added a sliding deadman as well. The
workbench casters are awesome in a small shop to make the bench mobile.
Add whatever you like and remember you don't have to do it all at once.
GO BUILD YOUR BENCH!!!
Now that you’ve seen my process get out and build your own! It can
incorporate some, all or none of the features i used. Find what works for you
in your shop and get to building! Thanks for checking out my Workbench
build and stay tuned for all the accessories i'll add in the future.