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Fig: Various Garment Defects
Fig: Various Garment Defects
Garment defects is very important issue for the buyers. Generally defects signify lack of quality.
During apparel manufacturing process various types of defects occur in garments like faulty
zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts,
inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colours.
Spirality:
Causes:
Yarn twist too high.
Yarn quality is very poor.
Bad combination between yarn twist & machine rotation direction.
Remedies:
Control of yarn twist (yarn twist should never be above 700 try/m).
Reduction of feeder number.
Appropriate finishing reduces fabric spirality.
Causes:
After cutting the garment parts must be kept in proper bundle with number.
One batch fabric shade is used for same garment in every part.
Shade is marking each part due to fabric cutting.
Hole:
Broken holes in the fabric where you are able to see through the fabric to the other side.
Fig: Hole in garment
Causes:
Holes can come from fabric or it could be caused by the production side, either by
improper trimming or broken needle puncturing the fabric.
Very stiff & dry yarn
Fluff
Improper cleaning
Remedies:
Stain:
Causes:
INK, Food and drinks that are spilled on the garment stain. are one of the most common
ways clothing becomes stained.
Remedies:
Seam Puckering:
Seam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering
causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
Fig: Seam puckering
Causes:
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing , improper
thread tension , wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability of the plies of fabric etc.
Remedies:
Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should be checked periodically for damages
Machine feed mechanism must be better quality
Operator training
Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much
UBT/trimmer should be used instead of pulling and breaking thread
Needle-thread-fabric combination should be well judged
Sewing thread must be selected properly
This happens due to improper handling of the parts of garments, improper setting and
timing between needle and looper or hook etc.
Remedies:
Pattern needs to be correct
Clear markings for stitch line
Good quality or D-core thread should be used
Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.
Worker training
Threading, SPI and backtack settings should be checked oftenly
Proper handling of the parts of garments
Tension should be quantifiable
Feed dog and hook set timing should be checked periodically
Broken Stitch:
Non-continuous sewing thread.
Causes:
Causes:
Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped.
Placing of needle properly.
The tension of thread should be adjusted.
Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately.
Wavy/staggered stitching:
Stitches are not straight.
Causes:
It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces , faulty feed mechanism , needle
deflection or wrong needle.
Remedies:
Shrinkage should be taken into account beforehand and suitable thread should be used
Needle to be changed
Needle size and thread size should be changed
Operator training
Guides should be provided
Feed mechanism to be changed
Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with much
Feed dog should be checked periodically
Causes:
Causes:
Defects generally come about either from improper handling of the cut piece.
Remedies:
When these defects starts to appear at close to 2% or 5 pieces, the production must be
informed and the operator must re-trained in the proper usage of the machine.
Distorted knitting:
Causes:
These defects can be identified by looking at the surface area, they usually appear as
irregular on the fabric.
Remedies:
Better inspection of fabric and cut piece. Ensure that fabric and cut pieces that are not
up to standard are not put into line and production is wasted. Replace not standard cut pieces
with usable ones before input.
Sizing defects: Difference in measurement of various parts of garments, wrong placement of
pocket, buttonhole, embroidery and prints, measurement discrepancy- all these problems come
from pattern section.
Poor ironing: If not sufficient, there might be creases and crinkles on garment surface and if
ironing is too heavy, there might be shining mark on garment.