MONTANOV™ 202

Light and mattifying touch

EMULSIFIERS
• 100% vegetable origin
• Identity Card
• INCI name
• Aspect
• Function
• Non-ionic structure • Origin
• Process
compatible with all • Green labels
actives including cationics • Regulatory status
• pH range
• Recommended dose
Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside
Pearl
Glucolipidic O/W emulsifier
100% vegetable origin (fatty alcohol from rapeseed) & renewable materials
Green chemistry & free of solvent/ethylene oxide/preservative
Ecocert / Cosmos / NaTrue approved ingredient
Worldwide compliance for classical cosmetics* & Quasi Drug in Japan
3 - 10
1 – 3%

• Outstanding emulsifying properties

• Soft and light skin feel - Emulsifies all types of oils (esters, vegetable oils, silicone oils, mineral oils, etc.)
- Easily emulsifies up to 40% oily phase and up to 50-60% depending on the formulation
with a matte finish
• Proven mattifying effect
Shine measurement with gloss-meter SEPPIC method 57 CO 042

Glossy Glossy/matte appearance of the film Tested formula:

60
MONTANOV™ 202 3% /
• Ultra-white and glossy 50 56.4
LANOL™ 99 20% /
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 0.5% /
emulsions with fluid
40

30 Preservative 1% /
to cream textures 20
Water up to 100%
10
1.2
0
Matte Control without MONTANOV™ 202 MONTANOV™ 202

• High pigment compatibility

• Liquid crystal promotor • Non-coated • Silicone type coating

• Compatibility with H2O2

Excellent stability at RT and at 45°C in presence of 6% a.m. H2O2 – suitable for the oxidizing
base of hair color products.
• Active emulsifier with 30000 Stability of viscosity over time pH = 4 Tested formula:
long-lasting 25000
MONTANOV™ 202 5% /
Hydrogen Peroxide 6% a.m. /
Brookfield viscosity (mPa.s)

moisturization 20000
Glycerin 5% /
Paraffinum Liquidum 5% /
15000 Cetyl Alcohol 2% /
Preservative qs /
10000 Water up to 100% /
Lactic Acid up to pH 4
5000

0
D1 D7 M1 M3 Y1 D1 D7 M1 M3 Y1
• Excellent compatibility RT 45°C

with H2O2
• Liquid crystal/lamellar phase promotor
- Improves emulsion stability Tested formula: MONTANOV™ 202 3% / LANOL™ 99 10% /
SIMULGEL™ I-NS 100 1% / Preservative qs / Water up to 100%
- Forms water reservoirs
- Helps to vectorize actives Optical microscopic picture with polarized light
2 years after the production of the emulsion
• High pigment
compatibility • Dominant elastic network improved stability
- Lamellar phases encourage the formation of an elastic network which improves emulsion stability
- MONTANOV™ 202 forms the best dominant elastic network in comparison to the other tested
emulsifiers below (rheometer measurement with oscillation protocol)

Compared elastic properties of emulsifiers

• Worldwide compliance* 2500

2342
13.5
G’(Pa) 14 G’/G’’ Tested formula:
& QD Japan 2000 Increasing Increasing 12 Emulsifier 5% /
elasticity stability LANOL™ 99 20% /
10
1500 1148 SIMULGEL™ EG 0.5% /
5.1 8 Preservative qs /
1000 334 6 Water up to 100%
4.4 73 No
* for classical cosmetics and considering 500
2.7 elasticity 4

that the product is at least listed in SFDA 0.1 2

G’: elastic modulus
0
2007 or the published IECIC for China – 0 0
G’’: viscous modulus
details in RMID MONTANOV™ 202 MONTANOV™ 68 Steareth-2/ PEG-100 Stearate/ Sorbitan Stearate/
Steareth-21 Glyceryl Stearate Polysorbate 60
4.5/0.5% 2.5%/2.5% 1.9%/3.1%
 • Long-lasting moisturization
TEWL - In Vitro study Corneometry measurement - In Vivo study
strengthening of the skin’s lipid barrier long-lasting moisturization up to 5 hours

% reduction in TEWL after 1 hour / untreated control Protocol % increase of corneometry measurement / untreated zone Protocol
• In vitro test 25 • 20 volunteers dry skin (<50 a.u)
70% • Gelatine cells * • Single application
20
50% +++ • SEPPIC method 57CO010 • Application zone: leg
1
Drying effect 2 3 15 4 1h30
• Corneometer CM825
*
30%
Add
Control MONTANOV™ 82
without Emulsify with a homogenizer: 10 to 50°C
Cool gradually and gently Finish the cooling with 3h
gentle
10% MONTANOV™ MONTANOV™
202phase
into the oily at 75°C 202 rotor-stator is Formula
recommended 5 * stirring
to moderate 5h Formula
(can also be added into the water phase MONTANOV™
(possible to use a lower shear stirrer 5%202 Possible to accelerate cooling MONTANOV™ 202 3%
-10% if the quantity of oil is low) if increasing LANOL™
thickener %)99 0 with a cold water bath
-7% 20% Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 20%
Restructuring -5 Control without MONTANOV™ 202
-30% SIMULGEL™ EG 0.5% MONTANOV™ 202 SIMULGEL™ EG 0.5%
75°C effect Preservative qs Preservative qs
-50%
+++ Aqua/Water up to 100% * Significant results (p<0.05) compared to untreated zone Aqua/Water up to 100%
-70% -63%

• Process MONTANOV™ 82

1 2 3 4
Add MONTANOV™ 202 Emulsify with a homogenizer: Cool gradually and gently to 50°C Finish the cooling with gentle
into the oily phase at 80-85°C rotor-stator is recommended to moderate stirring
(can also be added into the water phase (possible to use a lower shear stirrer Possible to accelerate cooling
if the quantity of oil is low) if increasing thickener %) with a cold water bath

80-85°C

Silverson™

MONTANOV™ 202

1 2 3 4

• Applications
Add SENSANOV™ WR
into the oily phase at 75°C
Emulsify with a homogenizer:
rotor-stator is recommended
Cool gradually and gently to 50°C Finish the cooling with gentle
to moderate stirring
and an alkaline agent to the water phase (possible to use a lower shear stirrer Possible to accelerate cooling
(SENSANOV™ can also be added into the if increasing thickener %) with a cold water bath
• Skin
water care • Hairof care
phase if the quantity oil is low) • Make-up
75°C

• Illustrative formulas
• Natural & Serene Fluid
SENSANOV™ WR Day Cream - EU07158D • A QD Whitening Revolution - EU07205A
Alkaline agent
for neutralization

A Aqua/Water Up to 100% A Aqua/Water Up to 100%

Xanthan Gum 0.60% Glycerin 2.00%
Sodium Hydroxide Up to pH 5 Xanthan Gum 0.20%
B LIPACIDE™ C8G 1.00% SEPIWHITE™ MSH QD 0.20%
Potassium Sorbate 0.20% Triethalonamine Up to pH = 7-7.2
C MONTANOV™ 202 3.00% B Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.00%
MONTANOV™ 14 1.50% Isopropyl Isostearate 3.00%
Behenyl Behenate 2.00% MONTANOV™ 202 3.00%
Butyrospermum Parkii 1.50% SIMULGEL™ EG 2.50%
Squalane 3.00% C Aqua/Water 5.00%
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil 3.00% Ascorbyl Glucoside 2.00%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00% Triethalonamine Up to pH = 5.5
Isopropyl Isostearate 3.00% D SEPICIDE™ HB 1.00%
Tocopherol 0.10%
D Water & Hordeum Vulgare Extract 11.00% • Appearance: White & smooth liquid
AQUAXYL™ 3.00% • pH: 6.8
• Viscosity M1 at RT: 32 800 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV4 sp6
• Appearance: White fluid cream • Stability: M3 at RT & 45°C
• pH: 5.3
• Viscosity M1 at RT: 10 440 mPa.s BROOKFIELD LV3 sp6
6468/GB/02/March 2014 - Design: Gris Souris - Photo: PhotoAlto

• Stability: M3 at RT & 45°C

SEPPIC S.A. Nota:

22 Terrasse Bellini The analytical specifications warranted are only those mentioned on the certificate of analysis supplied with each
Paris La Défense delivery of the product. Except as set forth above, SEPPIC makes no warranties, whether express, implied or statutory,
92806 PUTEAUX cedex - FRANCE as to the product which is the subject of this document. Without limiting the generality of the foregoing, SEPPICmakes
Tel. : + 33 (0) 1 42 91 40 00 no warranty of merchantability of the product or of the fitness of the product for any particular purpose. Buyer
info.seppic@airliquide.com assumes all risk and liability resulting from the use or sale of the product, whether singly or in combination with
other goods. The information set forth herein is furnished free of charge and is based on technical data that SEPPIC
© 2014 SEPPIC believes to be reliable. It is intended for use by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk.
MONTANOV™ is registered as a Trade Mark of SEPPIC
Since conditions of use are outside SEPPIC’s control, SEPPIC makes no warranties, express or implied, and assumes no
SEPPIC a Subsidiary of the Air Liquide group within liability in connection with any use of this information. Nothing herein is to be taken as a license to operate under or
the Healthcare activity a recommendation to infringe any patents.
Air Liquide Healthcare is a world leader in medical gases, home healthcare, hygiene products and healthcare specialty ingredients. It aims to provide customers
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