Aquarium Snail Facts

Snails eat algae and organic debris, and they are beneficial to the overall
health and balance of an aquarium. Some species are attractive and
interesting to observe, and many hobbyists value them as pets just like fish.
But some species reproduce rapidly, and a sudden population explosion can
be a surprise, especially if you do not know where they came from. An
unplanned snail outbreak can be an indicator of less than ideal conditions and
the need to do some tank maintenance.

Here are some interesting points to consider about snails:

 Snails enter an aquarium one of two ways: either they are purchased
and introduced intentionally, or they sneak in on live plants, rocks,
driftwood, decorations or in gravel cultures.
 Snails that sneak in are usually the types that multiply rapidly and are
considered by some aquarists as “bad” or nuisance snails. They include
Ramshorns, Malaysian Trumpets and pond snails.
 Ramshorn, Trumpet and pond snails make great scavengers for shrimp
tanks and fry-rearing tanks.
 Sometimes Ramshorn snails will eat live plants when there is no other
source of food. Most other snails will leave your plants alone.
 Malaysian Trumpet snails live in the gravel by day and come out at
night. They help keep the gravel clean and aerated. Trumpet snail
outbreaks are usually an indication that the aquarium needs to be
cleaned more regularly.
 “Good snails” like Mystery, Inca, Nerite, Assassin and Rabbit snails
make attractive and interesting aquarium pets. All except Nerite snails
can reproduce in your aquarium, but usually at a very slow rate.
 Nerite snails need brackish or saltwater to reproduce, so they are
unlikely to multiply in your aquarium.
 Mystery and Inca snails lay their eggs above the water, usually on the
underside of the aquarium cover, so if you want to breed them, leave an
air space for them between the water surface and tank lid.
 Snail outbreaks are usually a response to available food such as
uneaten fish food, dead plant matter and other organic debris. If you
have a snail outbreak, reduce feeding, do more frequent water changes,
vacuum the substrate and clean your filter more often.
  Nuisance snails can be removed manually by placing Aqueon Algae
Rounds or Bottom Feeder Tablets in the aquarium overnight and
removing them with the attached snails in the morning.
 To reduce the number of nuisance snails in your aquarium, try squishing
a few at a time and watch your fish gobble them up!
 Assassin snails eat nuisance snails and they will not overrun your
aquarium. They are cool-looking too!
 Certain species of loaches, puffer fish, cichlids and catfish are known to
eat nuisance snails, but these fish are not suitable for every aquarium.
Always research new fish before purchasing!
 Use chemicals designed to eliminate snails with caution. They are
harmful to plants, shrimp and even sensitive fish. In addition, a mass
die-off of snails can cause ammonia and nitrite to rise to dangerous
levels.

Next time you see some cool-looking snails at your local fish store, why not
consider adding a few to your aquarium?

Articles

Types of Aquarium Snails

Anyone who has been involved with aquarium keeping is probably familiar
with snails at one level or another. To some aquarists, they are valued algae
eaters and scavengers that help clean the tank and keep things in balance. To
others, they are a loathed scourge that quickly overrun the tank and are close
to impossible to get rid of, and to some, they are beautiful creatures that make
colorful, interesting pets.
For the most part, freshwater aquatic snails are hardy creatures that thrive in
the same water parameters as most aquarium fish, making them easy to keep
and compatible with a wide variety of fish and invertebrate species. They
come in a variety of sizes and colors, and despite popular belief, not all snails
are prolific breeders that will overpopulate your aquarium, although a few
types can and do. Always research any new additions before introducing them
to your tank. In this article, we will look at the different types of freshwater
snails and how to properly care for or avoid them.

Good Vs. Bad Snails 

There is a tendency to categorize aquarium snails as “good” or “bad”. Truth is,
all snails are good for our aquariums in one way or another, it’s just that
sometimes they do things we do not like or are unprepared for, like eating our
plants or overpopulating the tank. Virtually all problems with snails can be
avoided by understanding them, knowing how to avoid accidentally
introducing them to your tank and doing adequate research to make sure you
buy the right snails for your aquarium. 
 

"Good" Aquarium Snails

Most aquatic snails are great at getting rid of algae and consuming uneaten
food, dead plant matter and other detritus that accumulates in the aquarium.
One type, the Malaysian Trumpet Snail (MTS), burrows in the sand or gravel
looking for food, and in doing so, they keep the substrate clean and prevent it
from compacting and becoming anaerobic. Sadly, they are also the primary
culprit for overpopulating an aquarium.
More recently, aquarists seek snails as unique pets. Their bright colors,
intricate patterns and unusual shapes make several snail species ideal
candidates for aquariums of all types and sizes.
 

"Bad" Aquarium Snails 

There really are no “bad” snails, but a few species can multiply unchecked
and overrun an aquarium. Seeing hundreds, if not thousands of these little
beasts taking over your tank can be unnerving, and they can place a burden
on biological filtration as well as clog filter intake tubes. Malaysian Trumpet
Snails (MTS) and ramshorn snails are prone to doing this. To add to the
problem, nuisance snails are virtually impossible to eradicate once they are in
your aquarium. Ironically, one way of dealing with unwanted snail outbreaks is
to introduce a species of snail that eats other snails! This article will touch
more on this below.
               Some species of apple snails (Pomacea) are voracious herbivores
that will decimate a planted aquarium in short order. Apple snails have also
caused damage to crops in certain parts of the world after being inadvertently
introduced into the wild. However, the majority of apple snails in the aquarium
industry make great aquarium scavengers and usually leave plants alone.
 

How Do I Get Snails In My Aquarium?

There is only one way snails get into our aquariums – we put them there. But,
you might say, I’ve never purchased a snail in my life and suddenly they are
showing up! The most common ways unwanted snails enter our aquariums
accidentally are via eggs or juveniles hitchhiking on plants or decorations, or
in gravel cultures transferred from one tank to another.
Many snail eggs are transparent and are often attached to the undersides of
plant leaves, making them difficult to see. Juveniles of red ramshorns and
pond snails can be very tiny and hide easily, especially in fine-leaved plants.
There are ways of eliminating snails and their eggs which will also be
discussed below.
Malaysian Trumpet snails are often transferred in used gravel intended to help
start the biological cycle in a new aquarium, but they can come in on rocks,
plants, driftwood and decorations, as well. MTS are known to live in buckets of
used gravel for over a year! Even after rinsing the gravel thoroughly, they can
still be alive and well, ready to start reproducing in their new home.
 

Types of Snails 
Mystery Snails 
Sometimes called Inca snails, Mystery snails (Pomacea spp.) are a type of
apple snail and are among the most popular in the aquarium hobby. These
peaceful snails live 3 to 4 years, grow to a little over 1½ inch in diameter and
are valued for their bright colors and algae eating ability. Bodies are usually
black or pinkish-orange with neon orange spots around the head area. Shells
can be tan or olive with dark stripes, maroon, white, golden yellow or blue.
They eat soft algae, dead plant matter and make great scavengers in peaceful
community tanks.
There are several theories about how Mystery snails got their name, but a
popular one is that when they were first introduced into the hobby, no one
knew what kind of snail they were; it was a mystery. Scientists have described
two species popular in the aquarium industry – Pomacea
bridgesii and Pomacea diffusa, with P. diffusa thought to be the most common
one.
Mystery snails have gills as well as a lung, with a sort of siphon tube that
allows them to breathe air by coming to the surface. A secure lid should be
used to prevent them from climbing out of the tank. Breeding is not difficult;
mystery snails are gonochoristic, meaning you need a boy and a girl for it to
happen. In addition, the female must be able to leave the water to deposit her
eggs, which appear as a honeycomb-like cluster on the tank wall above the
water line or attached to the underside of the lid. Babies hatch out in 2 to 3
weeks, depending on temperature, and drop into the water.
 
Nerite Snails 
Nerites (Neritina spp.) are fantastic algae eaters that also eat leftover fish
food, dead plant matter and other “stuff” that ends up on the bottom. They
come in different colors and patterns, including one with horns! They are
among the most beautiful of all aquarium snails. They are relatively small,
they don’t eat plants and their waste contains bacteria that is beneficial to the
digestive tracts of shrimp, making them perfect for planted aquariums and
shrimp tanks.
              Nerite snails are not difficult to breed, but the larvae require brackish
or saltwater to develop, so there is little risk of them overrunning an aquarium.
They are thought to live at least 3 years, but there are reports of 5 years from
hobbyists. They love to crawl out of the water, so make sure you have a
secure lid on your tank!
Rabbit Snails 

A relatively recent addition to the hobby, Rabbit snails (Tylomelania spp.), are

rapidly becoming an aquarium favorite due to their larger size, interesting
colors and “rabbit-like” faces. Native to Sulawesi, Indonesia, some species
can grow up to 4 inches in length, and they are thought to live up to 3 years.
They do best in aquariums of 20 gallons or larger and prefer warmer
temperatures (76° - 84°F) and slightly alkaline water with pH 7.8 – 8.4. Some
aquarists mix crushed coral into the gravel or place coral in their filters to
achieve the correct water chemistry.
              Rabbit snails feed on soft algae, dead plant matter and other detritus,
but they will also eat sinking pellets, algae wafers and other fish foods that fall
to the bottom. They do not bother plants, however, there are anecdotal reports
of them nibbling on Java Fern.
              Rabbit snails are gonochoristic and give birth to live, fully developed
young, that are enclosed in a milky white egg pod. Babies are usually born
one at a time, although occasionally two or even three are encased. Egg pods
are produced once every 4 to 6 weeks, so their reproductive rate is very slow,
even if you have several of them.
Assassin Snails 

Assassin snails (Clea helena) are native to southeast Asia. They have

become popular in the
aquarium because they eat other snails, making them a natural method for
reducing nuisance snail populations. They grow to about 1 inch in length and
have alternating yellow and dark brown “bumble bee” stripes. They like to
burrow in the substrate but quickly come out for food.
              Unlike most aquarium snails, which are largely herbivorous or at least
omnivorous, Assassin snails are carnivores, feeding largely on other snails or
carrion. However, they will not eat their own kind even when other food is in
short supply. A few shrimp breeders have reported seeing Assassin snails
eating their valuable shrimp, but experts believe that this happens very rarely,
and the victims are most likely weak or sickly.
              Assassin snails are known to breed in captivity. They are
gonochoristic, so if you want to breed them, you should start with at least 5 or
6 to make sure you have males and females. Reproduction is slow because
females only lay 1 to 4 eggs at a time. Eggs are transparent and difficult to
see, hatching out in 8 to 9 weeks, depending on temperature.
Ramshorn Snails 
Ramshorn snails have been in the aquarium hobby longer than almost any
other type of snail. Some aquarists use them to help keep fry-rearing or
shrimp tanks clean, while others consider them a pest that should be
eliminated at any cost. They are great at eating soft algae, dead plant matter
and leftover food, but they can multiply quickly, especially in aquariums that
have a lot of organic debris. They are also known to eat soft-leafed plants
when food is scarce.
              The two most common species in the aquarium trade are Planorbella
duryi, the Red Ramshorn and Planorbarius corneus, a larger species known
as the Great Ramshorn. Red Ramshorns are red, as their name suggests,
while Great Ramshorns are typically olive-yellow to brown, with stripes on the
shell. Other variants, such as pink, yellow or blue are also available.
Ramshorns are air-breathers, making it necessary for them to come to the
surface to breathe.
              Great Ramshorn snails are usually introduced intentionally into
aquariums to control algae and help keep the tank clean, but Red Ramshorns
often appear spontaneously. More often than not, tiny individuals or eggs
sneak in on live plants, rocks, driftwood, ornaments and even gravel
transferred from one aquarium to another. A sudden population explosion is
often a result of detritus and organic waste building up in the aquarium.
Malaysian Trumpet Snails 
When it comes to multiplying, the Malaysian Trumpet Snail
(MTS), Melanoides tuburculata, has few rivals. Depending on your outlook,
these small, cone-shaped snails can be the best scavenger known to
aquarium keeping or the most despised creature on earth. To be sure, they
are prolific. They are parthenogenetic – not hermaphroditic – meaning
females can give birth to more females without requiring contact with a male.
In short, one tiny hitch-hiking female is all it takes to get things going, and they
are virtually impossible to get rid of once they enter your aquarium.
              On the positive side, MTS forage in the substrate by day, keeping it
aerated and breaking down any organic debris and waste that accumulates
there, preventing anaerobic conditions which can release deadly hydrogen
sulfide gas from developing. Plus, they won’t eat your plants. For these
reasons, they make excellent scavengers for planted aquariums, shrimp tanks
and aquariums that are heavily stocked or fed generously. That is comforting
if you like natural methods, but for some folks, seeing that many snails in a
tank or watching your gravel actually “move” is, well……. a little creepy.
It is pretty much impossible to eradicate MTS entirely once they are in your
aquarium but cutting back on feeding and vacuuming the substrate regularly
will deprive these snails of their food source and keep their numbers down.
Pond Snails 
Several species fall under the term “pond snails”. To some hobbyists they are
a valued scavenger, while others consider them a pest. Most grow to an inch
or less and are olive-green to speckled brown in color. They are omnivores,
feeding on algae, dead plant material, detritus and uneaten fish food. They
usually do not bother live plants, but they are known to reproduce rapidly
when an ample food supply is present.
              Pond snails can be kept with peaceful community fish and make
great scavengers in shrimp tanks. To prevent populations from getting out of
control, keep organic debris to a minimum by doing regular water changes,
vacuuming debris and feeding sparingly.

Water Quality Requirements

Snails are not very fussy when it comes to their water parameters, but it is
important to maintain healthy conditions in their aquarium by feeding
sparingly, doing regular water changes and maintaining good filtration. Test
water chemistry regularly to make sure you are providing the right conditions
for all your aquatic pets. 

How and What To Feed Snails 

Snails naturally feed on algae, dead plant matter and bits of fish food that fall
to the bottom, but they can also be fed Aqueon Algae Rounds and Bottom
Feeder Tablets. Snails – and shrimp – need an ample supply of calcium for
healthy shell growth, so if you use reverse osmosis or deionized water,
add Aqueon Water Renewal to replenish essential minerals and trace
elements. You can also place a little crushed coral in your filter, add liquid
calcium to the aquarium, or even feed your snails Zilla Aquatic Turtle Food to
make sure they’re getting enough calcium. If you are more of a “naturalist”,
feed your snails blanched kale, spinach, Chinese cabbage, green beans or
broccoli, as these vegetables are all rich in calcium. Feed sparingly and
remove uneaten food to avoid water quality problems.

Avoid Introducing Nuisance Snails to Your Aquarium

Nuisance snails have an uncanny knack for making their way into aquariums,
and once they are there, it can be extremely difficult to eliminate them. To
avoid this happening, take the following precautions:

 Soak décor items from other tanks in bleach water or scrub them
thoroughly before placing them in your aquarium.
 Inspect used gravel thoroughly before placing it in your tank. If you are
unsure of its origin or there are nuisance snails in the tank it came from,
do not put it in your aquarium!
 Soak live plants in a solution of 2 to 3 tablespoons of Alum powder per
gallon of water or quarantine them for at least 15 days in a separate
aquarium before introducing them to your display tank.

Getting Rid Of Nusiance Snails 

You cannot always eliminate nuisance snails completely, but you can
drastically reduce their numbers by doing the following:

 Vacuum gravel regularly and siphon out dead plant material and detritus
to eliminate their food supply.
 Feed your fish less to control the amount of food and waste available to
snails.
 Physically remove snails by picking them out by hand, using a snail trap
or baiting them. Place Aqueon Algae Rounds, Bottom Feeder Tablets or
lettuce leaves in the aquarium, leave them overnight and remove them
with the attached snails in the morning! Red Ramshorn snails can be
netted from the surface when they come up to breathe.
 Crush a few snails at a time and let your fish eat them!
 Introduce Assassin snails to eat your nuisance snails.
 Certain species of fish, including loaches, catfish, cichlids and puffers
eat snails, and they can be an effective way of lowering nuisance snail
populations. Always research fish before purchasing them to make sure
they are suitable for your tank size and compatible with its residents.
 Use snail-killing products. While chemicals should always be your last
resort and should be used with extreme caution, they can and do work.
 The problem with chemical treatments is that some are harmful, if not
lethal, to plants, shrimp, other invertebrates and certain sensitive fish,
so they will have to be removed if you choose this method. In addition, a
mass die-off of snails can over-burden your filter and cause ammonia
and nitrite levels to rise.

Can I use Medications And Other Additives with Snails?

Some medications contain copper sulfate and other chemicals that are
harmful to snails and other invertebrates. Most other water treatments are
safe to use in the presence of aquarium snails. Always read package
instructions and ingredient lists before using any treatment in your aquarium.
Snails are part of nature, and as such, they can be a valuable and interesting
addition to an aquarium.