So Sew Easy – Custom Fit Leggings

This tutorial including the video on how and where to measure yourself, and these instructions with larger
pictures can also be found at So Sew Easy.

In many parts of the world Autumn or Fall is here and Winter is on the way. It’s time to think about wrapping up
warm and adding an extra layer. When I’m not in shorts, I’m in leggings. So enjoy this free tutorial for a
custom leggings pattern.

(There’s no sensible or glamorous way to model leggings on the internet, so I thought I might as well make a
complete fool of myself and have some fun. I can’t remember the number of times I fell off this log after setting the
timer and running ! These wobbly photos are the best of the lot.)
Taking your measurements reasons – comfort and movement, and design and
styling.
Equipment needed:

 Tape measure and note pad

 Paper to draw your pattern (I use this large roll
of paper for pattern drafting and tracing
too. Strong but see-thru.)
However in stretch garments, comfort and
movement are not as much of an issue because
the fabric stretches while you move. So ease is

 Ruler more about styling. For leggings, there would not

 Paper scissors normally be any ease – they fit your body. In fact, in
 Painters tape/masking tape a very stretchy fabric, you may even decide to add
 Close fitting clothing such as existing leggings,
‘negative ease’ where the fabric measurement is
tights or just in your undies
LESS than your body measurement. This is
particularly true of swimwear, maybe exercise wear
If you are lucky, you might have a helper to assist
and certainly shape-wear and underwear such as
with the measurements, but perhaps it’s just you, so
Spanx.
I’ve made a video to show you how and where to
take these measurements to get the best fit.
So you need to decide about ease. You can have no
The video cannot be embedded into this document, negative ease and make the leggings to fit you
so to watch how and where to measure yourself for according to your measurements, or you can add
this pattern, please follow this link  negative ease of up to 10% to make them fit you
skin tight with a little stretch – like the leggings in
the shops will usually do. The calculator spread-
MEASURING VIDEO
sheet allows you to use any number you like, but I
recommend 90 -100% with 90 giving the tight fit
All about ease and 100 giving the looser fit. Note – adding a
number greater than 100 won’t work with this
Now that you have your measurements recorded,
calculator.
before we start to draft the pattern, there’s one
important decision to make – ease. You may have
come across the term ease before in sewing. Most Using the easy spread-sheet
usually in woven garments that don’t stretch, the
Now that you have your measurements, you’ll want
ease is the difference in the measurement of the
to enter them into the spread-sheet in order to work
finished garment and your corresponding
out the length of the lines for drawing
body measurement. So a shirt may have a finished
your pattern. You can enter your measurements in
bust measurement of 38 and if your bust actually
centimetres or in inches (but not both) and the
measures 36 inches, then there are 2 inches of
results come out in both too.
‘positive ease’ in this pattern. Ease is there for two
 1. About 2 inches down from the top of your paper,
make a mark on the center line. Then measure
down this line towards the
bottom measurement A. This is the length of your
leggings. Make a mark.

2. Now take the ankle circumference B, and draw a

Remember to fill in the box for ease percentage, a
number in the range 90-100 is recommended. 90
for very stretchy fabrics and a tight fit, 100 for less
horizontal line where you have marked, centering it
on the middle line. So if your line B is 9 inches, draw
4.5 inches on one side of the center and 4.5 inches
on the other side.
3. From your ankle line, measure up C and make a

stretchy and a looser fit, and any number in mark. This is where your knee will hit.

between.

Craftsy don’t allow the upload of a spread-sheet

with the pattern .zip file, so you will need to visit
the site to download it. Find the link HERE.

How to draw your pattern

(Larger photos for these instructions can be
found at the tutorial on So Sew Easy.)

Start with a large piece of paper. This will need to be

the full length of your leggings from waist to ankle
plus about 4 inches. For the width, use your thigh
circumference plus about 4 inches. Tape together
smaller pieces of paper if you need to.

Now find the center of your paper and draw a long

straight line from the top to the bottom. This is your
‘center line’ and represents the line along the side of 4. Draw line D at the knee point, centering the knee
your leg where you measured earlier. There is no circumference over the center line, same on either
seam line here on leggings. side.
Follow along with these instructions as I draw my
5. Measure up from the knee line measurement E
own pattern. I’m working in a smaller scale to make
and mark. This is your thigh line. Draw on your
it easier to see and photograph.
thigh circumference F, centering it on the center
line.

9. Let’s repeat for the back. On the left hand side of

the thigh line, measure in and mark the back depth J
and mark. Draw a line up at right
angles, measurement K.

10. Now draw in the waist line at the top between

these two upright lines. Start out straight for a little
while at the right hand side (front) and curve the line
gently to meet the waist at the back. The back rise
will usually be higher.
6. Connect the ends of the lines down to make the
inseam of your pattern on either side. As our bodies
are curved not pointed, smooth out the transition at
the knee to make a gentle curve rather than a point.
7. Now it’s time to deal with the rise depth. On the
right hand side of the pattern, this will be the front
of your body. Write front there to remind
you. From the right hand end of the thigh line,
measure in and mark measurement G.

8. From this mark, draw a line straight up, at right

angles to the thigh line, your front rise height
11. Now take your ruler and draw in a line from the
measurement H.
top of the back waist to about halfway along that
little line that is sticking out at thigh level on the
left. This allows for some extra space in the back for
your behind.
12. Finally draw in curves using a plate or other Types of fabric to use
round object to fill in those lower corners. Your
If you already own leggings then you will be familiar
basic pattern is now drawn.
with the types of stretch fabrics they are usually
made from. When selecting fabrics, stretch and
recovery and most important. If the fabric is fairly
thick and only has ‘give’ rather than stretch then you
will find your leggings hard to get on, and stiff to
move around in. Look for fabric that contains
lycra/spandex at least 5%. 5-10% would be
better. Lycra/spandex allows the fabric to stretch,
but it also gives it rebound.

A 100% cotton jersey will certainly stretch, but test

some out in your local fabric shop or on a scrap you
own – give it a good stretch. When you let go, does
it look the same as before or does it still look a bit
stretched, a bit wrinkly? Without that lycra,
the fabric won’t rebound back into shape the same
way. That’s Ok for pj’s but you won’t want to go out

13. Decide on your seam allowances. For the waist, in leggings that don’t rebound because before you

add the width of your elastic – usually 3/4 inch or 1 know it, your leggings will be suffering from baggy

inch. For the ankle seam, you only need a small bum and loose knees.

amount – say an inch. For the side seams, it

depends on how you intend to sew. If you are using How to sew your leggings
a regular zig-zag or stretch stitch, then you might
Fold your fabric in half with the two selvedge edges
want to include a standard 5/8th inch seam
together, right side together. Place your pattern on
allowance and trim your seams later. I’ll be using an
the fabric with the center line parallel to the
overcasting stitch which sews close to the edge of
selvedge. Cut out two pieces of fabric using your
the fabric so I only need a small seam allowance –
new pattern so you get two mirror image pieces.
about 1/4 of an inch. Draw in your seam allowance
all the way round your pattern.

14. Cut it out and mark it up so you can save it to Keep these two pieces right sides together and pin

use over again. Add any notes you think will be along the front and back curve only.

useful.
Sew using a stretch stitch, narrow zig-zag stitch or
Try on your leggings for fit, adjust if
serger to allow the stitches to stretch with the fabric.
necessary. Check out the height of the waist front
and back and make any adjustment. Take your wide
elastic around your waist (or where you want the top
of the leggings to come on your body) until you get
a comfortable fit and mark it where it overlaps, but
don’t cut it just yet.

On the inside of the leggings, pin one end of the

elastic to the center back seam. Now mark half way
and quarter way around on both the leggings waist
seam and the elastic. Match up those marks and pin

Most knit fabrics don’t unravel but you might want in place so the elastic is evenly spaced. You may

to trim your edges down to about 1/4 of an inch have some excess fabric.

and then finish with a zig-zag or another row of

stretch stitches for strength.
Stitch the elastic to the waist of the leggings using a
triple stretch stitch if you have one, or a large zig-

Now pick up the pieces and put the front and back zag stitch. Slightly stretch the elastic if needed to

center seams together and now they look like match the fabric, but don't stretch the fabric at the

leggings. Match up the leg seams, pin and then waist as you sew.

stitch.
When you get to the overlap, cut the elastic flush Try on the leggings and check the length. Turn in
with the other end to reduce bulk. Secure the two the hemline and stitch using a twin needle or a
ends together with a few zig zag stitches. narrow zig-zag stitch.

Turn the elastic inwards, keeping a nice tight edge

And you are finished.
and then stitch again over the previous stitching to
hold it in place. Now use that same pattern to go and sew lots
more. They’re really quick to sew!
 Thank you for downloading this Custom Fit Leggings tutorial. I hope you enjoyed making the
leggings and remember that I love to share your creations at So Sew Easy so drop me an email
with a photo at

deby@so-sew-easy.com

You might enjoy my other tutorials and free sewing patterns at So Sew Easy, including:

Wrap Dress

Ruffle Clutch Bag

Twist Front Top

Easy Summer Dress

Summer Drape Top

Custom Fit Skirt

Sew A Skirt beginner tutorial series

Double Layer Chiffon/Lace Blouse

30 Minutes Easy Skirt

Cheeky Panties

For the latest list, pop on over to the Tutorials Page.

This pattern, the photos, the spread-sheet and the instructions are copy right Deby Coles at So Sew Easy. Please do not copy,

publish, sell or redistribute them in any way. Please don’t print and give to your friends, or send it to anyone by email. This is

intended for your personal use. If you would like to recommend these instructions, please pass on the original download link at So

Sew Easy. Thank you.