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Carrer Toysa PDF
Carrer Toysa PDF
INSTINCTS
USER MANUAL
2014
Revision 1
13 owners manual GENERIC A5 aw 05/05/14 10:25 Page 3
Contents
GENERAL WARNING p. 3
A special note for parents p. 3
1. First
A. Bike Fit p. 4
B. Safety First p. 4
C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 5
D. First Ride p. 7
2. Safety
A. The Basics p. 8
B. Riding Safety p. 9
C. Off Road Safety p. 10
D. Wet Weather Riding p. 10
E. Night Riding p. 11
F. Extreme, Stunt Or Competition Riding p. 12
G. Changing Components Or Adding Accessories p. 13
3. Fit
A. Standover Height p. 14
B. Saddle Position p. 15
C. Handlebar Height And Angle p. 17
D. Control Position Adjustments p. 18
E. Brake Reach p. 18
4. Technical
A. Wheels p. 19
1. Wheel Quick Release p. 19
2. Removing And Installing Quick Release Wheels p. 20
3. Removing And Installing Bolt-On Wheels p. 23
B. Seatpost Quick Release p. 24
C. Brakes p. 25
D. Shifting Gears p. 27
E. Pedals p. 29
F. Bicycle Suspension p. 30
G. Tyres and Tubes p. 31
5. Servicing
A. Service Intervals p. 33
B. If Your Bicycle Sustains An Impact p. 34
A. Special Instructions
Appendix A:
Life Expectancy Of Your Bike And Its Components p. 35
NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance
manual. Please see your local 13 dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance.
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IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and service
information. Read it before you take the first ride on your new
bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Suitable terrain
Rigid steel frames 15 years
City and Trekking bikes are designed only for use on
Full suspension frames and all roads, cycle paths and smooth trail paths.
other materials 2 years
All Terrain (ATB) and Jump style bikes are designed for
All other components 1 year
on road and moderate off road use only. They are not
intended for extreme off road conditions, severe
Providing that the cycle:
downhill riding or for jumping and stunt riding.
• Has been properly cared for, regularly
serviced and maintained.
Racing bikes are designed for use on roads and other
• Has only been fitted with parts
smooth tarmac surfaces only.
recommended by Savvy Bikes Ltd.
• Has not been modified or altered in any way.
Hazard of misuse
• Has not been damaged by accident or misuse.
The misuse of any bike will subject both the frame and
components to excessive loading; this will greatly
Any failure caused by normal wear and tear or a lack of
accelerate wear and ultimately cause failure. Any such
servicing and maintenance is excluded.
failure of the frame or components could result in
serious injury. (see section 2F and Appendix A).
Under the terms of this guarantee Savvy Bikes Ltd will
bear the cost of the replacement parts and labour to Maximum weights
carry out the repair. Unless otherwise stated, adult bicycles are designed to
carry a rider of up to 120 Kg and up to 20 Kg of
Important: This guarantee applies only to cycles used
luggage. All luggage carried must be securely mounted
under normal riding conditions.
on the frame, uniformly distributed and fitted as low as
possible, to minimize any adverse effect upon stability.
The components specified on all terrain cycles are The maximum total weight of the cycle, rider and
guaranteed for normal off road use. However, no cycles luggage should never exceed 160 Kg.
sold by Savvy Bikes Ltd are guaranteed to withstand
stunt riding, jumping, trials riding, misuse, accidents, Unless otherwise stated, children’s bicycles are
lack of maintenance, abuse, use in competition or designed to carry a rider of up to 45 Kg and no luggage.
commercial use (e.g. hire). The maximum total weight of the cycle and rider should
never exceed 60 Kg.
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and • The word CAUTION used without the safety
damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not
assume the responsibility for that risk, so you avoided, could result in serious damage to the
need to know – and to practice – the rules of bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
safe and responsible riding and of proper use
and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may
of your bicycle reduces risk of injury. lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result
in serious injury or even death, we do not always
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and repeat the warning of possible injury or death.
“Cautions” concerning the consequences of
failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of Because it is impossible to anticipate every
failure to follow safe cycling practices. situation or condition, which can occur while
riding, this Manual makes no representation about
the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions.
• The combination of the safety alert There are risks associated with the use of any
symbol and the word WARNING indicates a bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided,
potentially hazardous situation which, if not and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet
when riding; but also make sure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is
for bicycling only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while
playing, in play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while
not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.
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1. First
NOTE:"We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety
before your first ride. At the very least, read and make sure that
you understand each point in this section, and refer to the cited
sections on any issue which you don’t completely understand.
Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described
in this Manual. Ask your local 13 dealer to point out the features
of your bicycle.
A. Bike Fit
1 Is your bike the right size? To check, see 4 Are the stem and handlebars at the right height
Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too for you? If not, see Section 3.C.
small for you, you may lose control and fall. If
your new bike is not the right size for you, do 5 Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If
not ride it. Ask your local 13 dealer to not, you may be able to adjust their angle and
exchange it before you ride it. reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
2 Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see 6 Do you fully understand how to operate your
Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, new bicycle? If not, before your first
follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in ride, have your local 13 dealer explain
Section 3.B. any functions or features which you do
not understand.
3 Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A
correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle
movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
B. Safety First
1 Always wear an approved helmet when riding 4 If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless
your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s (SPD type) pedals, make sure you know how
instructions for fit, use and care. they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals
require special techniques and skills. Follow
2 Do you have all the other required and the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use,
recommended safety equipment? See Section adjustment and care.
2. It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself
with the laws of the areas where you ride, and 5 Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed
to comply with all applicable laws. bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to
contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the
3 Do you know how to correctly operate your way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
wheel quick releases? Check Section 4.A.1 to Section 4.E. to check whether you have
make sure. Riding with an improperly adjusted toe overlap.
wheel quick release can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and 6 Does your bike have suspension? If so, check
cause serious injury or death. Section 4.F. Suspension can change the way a
bicycle performs. Follow the suspension
manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
C. Mechanical
Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of
materials, often differing by model and
your bicycle before every ride. component, it is not possible for this Manual to
specify the correct torque (tightening force) for all
of the fasteners on your bicycle. Unless a
Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: component is specifically marked, the tightening
Because manufacturers use a wide variety of torques for the key safety parts are listed below:
If you choose to carry out further work on your WARNING: Correct tightening force
own bicycle you must get the correct tightening on fasteners – nuts, bolts, screws – on
torque specifications from the bicycle or your bicycle is important. Too little force, and
component manufacturer or from your local 13 the fastener may not hold securely. Too much
dealer. If you need to make an adjustment at force, and the fastener can strip threads,
home or on a ride, we urge you to exercise care, stretch, deform or break. Either way,
and to have the fasteners you worked on incorrect tightening force can result in
checked by your local 13 dealer as soon as component failure, which can cause you to
possible. lose control and fall.
1 Everything Secure?
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel
off the ground by 50 to 75 mm (2 to 3”), then let
it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or
look loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of
the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories?
If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask
someone with experience to check.
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D. First Ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your If your bike has suspension, familiarise yourself
first familiarisation ride on your new bicycle, be with how the suspension responds to brake
sure to pick a controlled environment, away from application and rider weight shifts (see paragraph
cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. B.6 above and Section 4.F).
Ride to become familiar with the controls,
features and performance of your Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D).
new bike. Remember never move the shifter whilst
stationary, whilst pedalling backwards, or pedal
Familiarise yourself with the braking action of the backwards immediately after having moved the
bike (see Section 4.C). The right hand brake shifter. This could jam the chain and cause
lever operates the front brake and the left, the serious damage to the bicycle.
rear. Test the brakes at slow speed, putting your
weight toward the rear and gently applying the Check out the handling and response of the bike;
brakes, rear brake first. Sudden or excessive and check the comfort.
application of the front brake could pitch you over
the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can If you have any questions, or if you feel
lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose anything about the bike is not as it should be,
control and fall. Skidding is an example of what consult your local 13 dealer before your next
can happen when a wheel locks up. ride.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals,
practice getting in and out of the pedals (see
paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4).
Stem Fig. 1
Headset
Seat post Top tube
Head tube
Freewheel/
cassette Seat stay
sprocket Down
cluster tube
Seat
tube
Chain
rings
Front gear
mechanism Crank
Rear gear
mechanism
Chain stay
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2. Safety
A. The Basics
WARNING: Observe all local bicycle 6 Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike,
laws and regulations. Observe particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can be
regulations about bicycle lighting, riding on fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable
pavements, laws regulating bike path and stress on the bicycle and its components.
trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk
special bicycle traffic laws. It’s your serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to
responsibility to know and obey the laws. themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do
stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
1 Always wear a cycling helmet which meets understand Section 2.F.
the latest certification standards and is
appropriate for the type of riding you do. 7 Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions.
Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s Increased speed means higher risk.
instructions for fit, use and care of your
helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve
head injuries, which might have been avoided
if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet. A
cycle ridden on public roads during daylight
hours should be fitted with reflectors (front,
rear, pedals and wheels) and have a bell.
5 Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip
the pedals. Make sure that shoe laces cannot
get into moving parts, and never ride
barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose
that it can be tangled in the bicycle or
snagged by objects at the side of the road
or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against
airborne dirt, dust and bugs – tinted when the
sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
B. Riding Safety
1 You are sharing the road or the path with 9 Never carry anything which obstructs your
others – motorists, pedestrians and other vision or your complete control of the bicycle,
cyclists. Respect their rights. or which could become entangled in the
moving parts of the bicycle.
2 Ride defensively. Always assume that others
do not see you. 10 Never hitch a ride by holding on to
another vehicle.
3 Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the 11Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you
road or your lane ahead of you, or coming intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go
up behind you. racing with your bike read Section 2.F,
• Parked car doors opening. Downhill, Stunt or Competition Riding, now.
• Pedestrians stepping out. Think carefully about your skills before
• Children or pets playing near the road. deciding to take the significant risks that go
• Pot holes, drain gratings, tram tracks, with this kind of riding.
expansion joints, road or pavement
construction, debris and other obstructions 12 Don’t weave through traffic or make any
that could cause you to swerve into traffic, moves that may surprise the people with
catch your wheel or cause you to have whom you are sharing the road.
an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions 13 Observe and yield the right of way.
which can occur on a bicycle ride.
14 Never ride your bicycle while under the
4 Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated influence of alcohol or drugs.
bike paths or as close to the edge of the road
as possible, in the direction of traffic flow or 15 If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when
as directed by local laws. visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the
dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these
5 Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow conditions increases the risk of accident.
down and look both ways at road junctions.
Remember that a bicycle always loses in a
collision with a motor vehicle; so be prepared
to yield even if you have the right of way.
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E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more • Purchase and install battery powered front and
dangerous than riding during the day. A cyclist is rear lights, which meet all regulatory
very difficult for motorists and pedestrians to see. requirements and provide adequate visibility.
Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at
dusk or at night. In the UK white front and red rear lights must
be fitted, which either comply with BS 6102 - 3
Adults who choose to accept the greatly or are flashing LED lights with a light output of
increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at more than 4 candela and a flashing rate of
night need to take extra care both riding and between 1 and 4 times per second. It is
choosing specialised equipment, which helps recommended that flashing LED lights are
reduce that risk. Consult your local 13 dealer used in conjunction with a steady light, when
about night riding safety equipment. riding on unlit roads.
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F. Extreme, Stunt Or
Competition Riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Freeride, North Shore, We strongly recommend against this type of
Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing or riding because of the increased risks; but if you
something else; by engaging in this sort of choose to take the risk, at least:
extreme, aggressive riding you are accepting an
increased risk of injury or death. Not all bicycles • Take lessons from a competent instructor first
are designed for these types of riding, and those • Start with easy learning exercises and slowly
that are may not be suitable for all types of develop your skills before trying more difficult or
aggressive riding. Check with your local 13 dangerous riding
dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer about the • Do stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill
suitability of your bicycle before engaging in any riding only in areas designated for this type
type of extreme riding. of riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds safety gear
seen on motorcycles, and therefore face similar • Understand and recognize that the stresses
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and imposed on your bike by this kind of activity
equipment carefully inspected by a qualified may break or damage parts of the bicycle and
mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. void the warranty
Consult with expert riders and race officials on • Take your bicycle to your local 13 dealer
conditions and equipment advisable at the site if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your
where you plan to ride. bicycle when any part is damaged.
Wear appropriate safety gear, including an If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or
approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and ride in competition, know the limits of your skill
body armour. Ultimately, it is your responsibility and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is
to have proper equipment and to be familiar with your responsibility.
course conditions.
G. Changing Components
Or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories
available to enhance the comfort, performance
and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you
change components or add accessories, you do
so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer
may not have tested that component or
accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on
your bicycle. Almost every component used on a
cycle has safety related features; always only
use genuine replacement parts. This is
particularly important for the safety critical areas
of braking, steering, wheels and tyres. The
addition of any aerodynamic extensions may
adversely affect the cycle’s response to steering
and braking.
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3. Fit
NOTE:"Correct fit is an essential element for safety, performance
and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle, which result
in correct fit for your body and riding conditions requires
experience, skill and special tools. Always have your local 13
dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have the
experience, skill and tools, have your local 13 dealer check your
work before riding.
WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control and fall. If your
new bike doesn’t fit, ask your local 13 dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
A. Standover Height
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit
(see fig. 2). It is the distance from the ground to
the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where Fig. 2
your crotch is when straddling the bike.
To check for correct standover height, straddle
the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which
you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your
heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike
is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike
around the corner. A bike should give you a
minimum standover height clearance of two
inches (50 mm).
B. Saddle Position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor
in getting the most performance and comfort
from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not
comfortable for you, see your local 13 dealer.
Fig. 3
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C. Handlebar Height
And Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” WARNING: An insufficiently tightened
stem, which clamps on to the outside of the stem binder bolt, handlebar binder
steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt may
inside the steerer tube by way of an expanding compromise the steering action, which could
binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which cause you to lose control and fall. Place the
type of stem your bike has, ask your local 13 front wheel of the bicycle between your legs
dealer. and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem
assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig. 6), your to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in
local 13 dealer may be able to change relation to the stem, or turn the bar end
handlebar height by moving height adjustment extensions in relation to the handlebar, the
spacers from below the stem to above the stem, bolts are insufficiently tightened.
or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a
stem of different length or rise. Consult your
local 13 dealer. Do not attempt to do this
yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
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D. Control Position
Adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers
and their position on the handlebars can be
changed. Ask your local 13 dealer to make the
adjustments for you.
E. Brake Reach
Many bikes have brake levers, which can be
adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or
find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your
local 13 dealer can either adjust the reach or fit
shorter reach brake levers.
4. Technical
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to
understand how things work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask
your local 13 dealer how to do the things described in this section
before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your local 13
dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even
the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this
section of the Manual, talk to your local 13 dealer (See also
Appendix A p. 35).
A. Wheels
NOTE: If you have a bike equipped with quick 2 Understand and apply the correct
release axles on the front or rear wheels, technique for clamping your wheel in place
make sure that your local 13 dealer has given with a quick release.
you the manufacturer’s instructions, and
follow those when installing or removing a 3 Each time, before you ride the bike, check
quick release axle wheel. If you don’t know that the wheel is securely clamped
what a quick release axle is, ask your local 13 (see fig. 8).
dealer.
A wheel quick release uses a cam action to
clamp the bike’s wheel in place (see fig. 8).
Because of its adjustable nature, it is critical
1 Wheel Quick that you understand how it works, how to use it
Release properly, and how much force you need to apply
to secure the wheel.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly
adjusted wheel quick release can
allow the wheel to wobble or fall off the WARNING: The full force of the cam
bicycle, which can cause serious injury or action is needed to clamp the wheel
death. Therefore, it is essential that you: securely. Holding the nut with one hand and
turning the lever like a wing nut with the
1 Ask your local 13 dealer to help you other hand until everything is as tight as you
make sure you know how to install and can get it will not clamp the wheel safely in
remove your wheels safely. the dropouts.
Fig. 8
turn to adjust
clamping force
open position
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a. Adjusting The Quick Release Ask your local 13 dealer to explain the
particular secondary retention device on
Mechanism your bike.
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force
of the quick release cam pushing against one WARNING: Do not remove or disable
dropout and pulling the tension-adjusting nut, by the secondary retention device. As its
way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The name implies, it serves as a back up for a
amount of clamping force is controlled by the critical adjustment. If the quick release is not
tension-adjusting nut. Turning the tension- adjusted correctly, the secondary retention
adjusting nut clockwise whilst keeping the cam device can reduce the risk of the wheel
lever from rotating increases clamping force; disengaging from the fork. Removing or
turning it anticlockwise whilst keeping the cam disabling the secondary retention device
lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less may also void the warranty.
than half a turn of the tension-adjusting nut can
make the difference between safe clamping force Secondary retention devices are not a
and unsafe clamping force. substitute for correct quick release
adjustment. Failure to properly adjust the
b. Front Wheel Secondary quick release mechanism can cause the
Retention Devices wheel to wobble or disengage, which could
Most bicycles have front forks, which utilize a cause you to loose control and fall, resulting
secondary wheel retention device to reduce the in serious injury or death.
risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the
quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary Fig. 9
retention devices are not a substitute for correct
quick release adjustment. Secondary retention
devices fall into two basic categories:
2 Removing And
Fig. 10a
Installing Quick
Release Wheels
a. Removing A Quick Release closed
Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc front
brake, exercise care in touching it.
Discs have sharp edges and can get very hot
during use. Fig. 10b
4 If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary 5 If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a
retention device, disengage it and go to step position parallel to the fork blade, return the
(5). If your front fork has an integral secondary lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the
retention device, loosen the tension-adjusting tension adjusting nut anticlockwise one-quarter
nut enough to allow removal of the wheel; then turn and try tightening the lever again.
go to the next step.
6 Re-engage the brake quick-release
5 Raise the front wheel a few inches off the mechanism to restore correct brake block-to-
ground and tap the top of the wheel with the rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
palm of your hand to release the wheel from that it is centered in the frame and clears the
the front fork. brake blocks; then squeeze the brake lever
and make sure that the brakes are operating
correctly.
b. Installing A Quick Release
Front Wheel
c. Removing A Quick Release
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped Rear Wheel
with disc brakes, be careful not to
damage the disc, caliper or brake pads when 1 Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the
re-inserting the disc into the caliper. Never smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
activate a disc brake’s control lever unless
the disc is correctly inserted in the caliper. 2 If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
See also Section 4.C. brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase
the clearance between the wheel rim and the
1 Move the quick-release lever so that it curves brake blocks (see Section 4.C, figs. 14 through
away from the wheel (fig. 10b). This is the to 18).
OPEN position.
3 Pull the derailleur body back with your
2 With the steering fork facing forward, insert the right hand.
wheel between the fork blades so that the axle
seats firmly at the top of the slots, which are at 4 Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN
the tips of the fork blades – the fork dropouts. position (fig. 10b).
The quick-release lever should be on the left
side of the bicycle (fig.10a & b). If your bike 5 Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches
has a clip-on type secondary retention device, and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push
engage it. the wheel forward and down until it comes out
of the rear dropouts.
3 Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN
position with your right hand, tighten the
tension adjusting nut with your left hand until it
is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8).
Fig. 11
4 While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of
the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same
time centering the wheel rim in the fork, move
the quick-release lever upwards and swing it
into the CLOSED position (fig. 8 & 10a). The
lever should now be parallel to the fork blade
and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough
clamping force, you should have to wrap your
fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and
the lever should leave a clear imprint in the
palm of your hand.
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1 Make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its The rear wheel must be secured to the
outermost, high gear, position bicycle frame with sufficient force so that it
cannot be pulled forward by the chain, even
2 Pull the derailleur body back with your under the greatest pedaling force. If the
right hand. wheel moves under pedaling force, the tyre
can touch the frame, which can cause you to
3 Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN loose control and fall.
position (see fig. 8). The lever should be on
the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur 6 If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a
and freewheel sprockets. position parallel to the chain stay or seat stay
tube, return the lever to the OPEN position.
4 Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel Then turn the adjusting nut anticlockwise one-
sprocket. Then, insert the wheel up and back quarter turn and try tightening again.
into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way
in to the dropouts. 7 Push the rear derailleur back into position.
5 Tighten the quick-release adjusting nut until it 8 Re-engage the brake quick-release
is finger tight against the frame dropout; then mechanism to restore correct brake block-to-
swing the lever toward the front of the bike rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
until it is parallel to the frame’s chain stay or that it is centered in the frame and clears the
seat stay and is curved toward the wheel (fig. brake blocks; then squeeze the brake lever
10a & fig. 11). To apply enough clamping and make sure that the brakes are operating
force, you should have to wrap your fingers correctly.
around a frame tube for leverage, and the
lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm
of your hand.
Fig. 12
3 Removing And
Installing Bolt-On
Wheels
a. Removing A Bolt-On Front Wheel
1 If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase open
the clearance between the tyre and the brake
blocks (see Section 4.C, figs. 14 through
to 18). c. Removing A Bolt-On Rear Wheel
2 Using a correct size spanner, loosen the two WARNING: If your bike is equipped
axle nuts. with an internal gear rear hub, do not
attempt to remove the rear wheel. The
3 If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary removal and re-installation of internal gear
retention device, disengage it and go to the hubs require special knowledge. Incorrect
next step. If your front fork has an integral removal or assembly can result in hub failure,
secondary retention device, loosen the axle which can cause you to lose control and fall.
nuts enough to allow wheel removal; then go
to the next step. 1 If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the
brake’s quick-release mechanism to open the
4 Raise the front wheel a few inches off the clearance between the tyre and the brake
ground and tap the top of the wheel with the blocks (see Section 4.C, figs. 14 through to 18).
palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of
the fork ends. 2 Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the
smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur
body back with your right hand.
b. Installing A Bolt-On Front Wheel
3 Using the correct size spanner, loosen the two
1 With the steering fork facing forward, insert axle nuts.
the wheel between the fork blades so that the
axle seats firmly at the top of the slots, which 4 Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches
are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push
washers should be on the outside, between the wheel forward and down until it comes out
the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike of the rear dropouts.
has a clip-on type tab washer secondary
retention device, engage it
(see Section 4.A 1b). d. Installing A Bolt-On Rear Wheel
2 While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the 1 Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost
slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same position and pull the derailleur body back with
time centering the wheel rim in the fork, use your right hand.
the correct size spanner to tighten the axle
nuts enough so that the wheel stays in place; 2 Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket.
then use a spanner on each nut Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
simultaneously to fully tighten the nuts. and pull it up and back completely in to the
dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on
3 Re-engage the brake quick-release the outside, between the frame and the
mechanism to restore correct brake block-to- axle nut.
rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the 3 Using the correct size spanner, tighten the axle
brake blocks; then squeeze the brake lever nuts enough so that the wheel stays in place;
and make sure that the brakes are operating then use a spanner on each nut
correctly. simultaneously to fully tighten the nuts.
3 Turn the cranks through at least one full 2 Turn the cranks through at least one full
revolution and check that eccentricity does revolution and check that eccentricity does
not cause the chain to become too taut at not cause the chain to become too taut at
any point. any point.
Fig. 13
2 Understand and apply the correct WARNING: The full force of the cam
technique for clamping your seat post action is needed to clamp the seat
quick release. post securely. Holding the nut with one hand
and turning the lever like a wing nut with the
3 Before you ride the bike, first check that other hand until everything is as tight as you
the seat post is securely clamped. can get it will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING: If you can fully close the clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the
quick release without wrapping your tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn
fingers around the seat post or a frame tube the tension-adjusting nut clockwise a quarter
for leverage, and the lever does not leave a turn; then try again.
C. Brakes
WARNING: understand the way the brake quick release
1 Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or works on your bike (see figs. 14 through to 18)
worn brake blocks is dangerous and can and check each time to make sure both brakes
result in serious injury or death. work correctly before you get on the bike.
1 Brake Control
And Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn If the rim has worn to the bottom of the wear
and remember which brake lever controls which Indicator groove or dimple, at any point on the
brake on your bike. The right hand lever controls braking surfaces, do not ride the cycle until the
the front brake and the left controls the rear. rim has been replaced.
Make sure that your hands can reach and
squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your Fig. 14
hands are too small to operate the levers
comfortably, consult your local 13 dealer before
riding the bike. The lever reach may be
adjustable; or you may need a different brake
lever design.
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D. Shifting Gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur shifting the chain in towards the centreline of the
drive train or an internal gear hub drive train. bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called
a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from
the centreline of the bike is for speed and is
called an upshift.
1 How a Derailleur
Drive Train Works Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive
If your bicycle has a derailleur drive train, the chain be moving forward and be under at least
gear-changing mechanism will have: some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster pedaling forward.
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters CAUTION: Never move the shifter
• one, two or three front sprockets called whilst stationary, whilst pedalling
chainrings backwards, or pedal backwards immediately
• a drive chain after having moved the shifter. This could
jam the chain and cause serious damage to
a. Shifting Gears the bicycle.
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E. Pedals
1 Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this
front wheel when you turn the handlebars to type of high-performance pedal, you must take
steer while a pedal is in the forward most extra care to avoid serious injury from the
position. This is possible if you fit larger / wider pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding
tyres or longer replacement cranks, and is style or skill level, you may prefer a less
avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with
outside pedal down when making sharp turns. shin pads. Your local 13 dealer can show you
On any bicycle, this turning technique will a number of options and make suitable
prevent the inside pedal from striking recommendations.
the ground.
3 Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause correctly positioned and engaged with the
you to lose control and fall. Ask your pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot
local 13 dealer to help you determine if the over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum
combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened,
pedal design and shoes you will use results keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation
in pedal overlap. cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps
give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they
Whether you have overlap or not, you must work most effectively with cycling shoes
keep the inside pedal up and the outside designed for use with toeclips. Your local 13
pedal down for maximum ground clearance dealer can explain how toeclips and straps
when making sharp turns. work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts,
which might make it more difficult for you to
2 Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that remove your foot, should not be used with
have sharp and potentially dangerous toeclips and straps.
surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add
safety by increasing grip between the rider’s
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WARNING: Getting into and out of engage or disengage the foot. Follow the
pedals with toeclips and straps pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask your
requires skill which can only be acquired with local 13 dealer to show you how to make this
practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until
technique requires concentration, which can engaging and disengaging becomes a reflex
distract your attention and cause you to lose action, but always make sure that there is
control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips sufficient tension to prevent unintended
and straps where there are no obstacles, release of your foot from the pedal.
hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and
don’t tighten them until your technique and
confidence in getting in and out of the pedals WARNING: Clipless pedals are
warrants it. Never ride in traffic with your toe intended for use with shoes
straps tight. specifically made to fit them and are
designed to firmly keep the foot engaged
4 Clipless pedals (sometimes called “SPD type with the pedal. Using shoes which do not
pedals”) are another means to keep feet engage the pedals correctly is dangerous.
securely in the correct position for maximum
pedaling efficiency. They have a plate, called a Practice is required to learn to engage and
“cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and
into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the
pedal. They only engage or disengage with a technique requires concentration which can
very specific motion, which must be practiced distract your attention and cause you to lose
until it becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals control and fall. Practice engaging and
require shoes and cleats, which are disengaging clipless pedals in a place where
compatible with the make and model of pedal there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be
being used. sure to follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup
and service instructions. If you do not have the
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the manufacturer’s instructions, see your local 13
rider to adjust the amount of force needed to dealer or contact the manufacturer.
F. Bicycle Suspension
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension WARNING: Failure to maintain, check
systems. There are many different types of and properly adjust the suspension
suspension systems – too many to deal with system may result in suspension malfunction,
individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a which may cause you to lose control and fall.
suspension system of any kind, be sure to read
and follow the suspension manufacturer’s setup If your bike has suspension, the increased speed
and service instructions. If you do not have the you may develop also increases your risk of
manufacturer’s instructions, see your local 13 injury. For example, when braking, the front of a
dealer or contact the manufacturer. suspended bike dips. You could lose control and
fall if you do not have experience with this
Winding a rear suspension spring tension nut system. Learn to handle your suspension system
anti-clockwise will increase the travel of the rear safely. See also Section 4.C.
suspension, for a given load. However, never
reduce this pre-tension to such an extent that the
spring becomes loose when you lift the bike off
the ground.
1 Tyres
Bicycle tyres are available in many designs
and specifications, ranging from general-purpose
designs to tyres designed to perform best under
very specific weather or terrain conditions. If,
once you’ve gained experience with your new
bike, you feel that a different tyre might better
suit your riding needs, your local 13 dealer can
help you select the most appropriate design.
The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tyre WARNING: There is a safety risk in
to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump, using petrol station air hoses or other
which has a built-in pressure gauge. air compressors. They are not made for
bicycle tyres. They move a large volume of air
very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in
your tyre very rapidly, which could cause the
tube to explode.
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2 Tyre Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube To inflate a Presta valve with a Schraeder pump
valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at
Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have your local 13 dealer) which screws on to the
the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The
your bicycle. adapter fits into the Schraeder pump fitting.
Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a
The Schraeder valve is like the valve on a car Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut
tyre. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove and depress the valve stem.
the valve cap and clamp the pump fitting onto
the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a
Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of WARNING: Patching a tube is an
the valve stem with the end of a key or other emergency repair. If you do not apply
appropriate object. the patch correctly or apply several patches,
the tube can fail, resulting in possible tube
The Presta valve (fig. 21) has a narrower failure, which could cause you to lose control
diameter and is only found on bicycle tyres. and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as
To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta possible.
headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap;
unscrew (anticlockwise) the valve stem lock nut;
and push down on the valve stem to free it up.
Then push the pump head on to the valve head,
and inflate.
5. Servicing
WARNING: Technological advances which can cause serious injury or death.
have made bicycles and bicycle If you want to learn to do major service and
components more complex, and the pace of repair work on your bike:
innovation is increasing. It is impossible for
this manual to provide all the information 1 Ask your local 13 dealer for copies of
required to properly repair and/or maintain the manufacturer’s installation and service
your bicycle. In order to help minimize the instructions for the components on your bike,
chances of an accident and possible injury, it or contact the component manufacturer.
is critical that you have any repair or
maintenance, which is not specifically 2 Ask your local 13 dealer to recommend a book
described in this manual, performed by your on bicycle repair.
local 13 dealer. Equally important is that your
individual maintenance requirements will be We recommend that you ask your local 13
determined by everything from your riding dealer to check the quality of your work the first
style to geographic location. Consult your time you work on something and before you
local 13 dealer for help in determining your ride the bike, just to make sure that you did
maintenance requirements. everything correctly. Since that will require the
time of a mechanic, there may be a modest
charge for this service.
WARNING: Many bicycle service and
repair tasks require special
knowledge and tools. Do not begin any
adjustments or service on your bicycle until
you have learned from your local 13 dealer
how to properly complete them. Improper
adjustment or service may result in damage
to the bicycle or in an accident,
A. Service Intervals
Some service and maintenance can and should Another way to judge when it’s time for the first
be performed by the owner, and requires no checkup is to bring the bike in after three to
special tools or knowledge beyond what is five hours of hard off-road use, or about 10 to
presented in this manual. 15 hours of on-road or more casual off-road
use. But if you think something is wrong with
The following are examples of the type of service the bike, take it to your local 13 dealer before
you should perform yourself. All other service, riding it again.
maintenance and repairs should be performed in
a properly equipped facility by a qualified bicycle 2 Before every ride: carry out the Mechanical
mechanic using the correct tools and procedures Safety Check (Section 1.C)
specified by the manufacturer.
3 After every long or hard ride: especially if the
1 Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at
work better if you break it in before riding it least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and
hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may lightly oil the chain. Wipe off any excess oil.
stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used Apply an aerosol spray lubricant to the brake
and may require readjustment by your local and gear control cables, to ensure that they
13 dealer. Your Mechanical Safety Check move freely.
(Section 1.C) will help you identify some
things that need readjustment. But even if The need for lubrication is affected by the
everything seems fine to you, it’s best to take climate in which you ride. Talk to your local
your bike back to the local 13 dealer for a 13 dealer about the best lubricants and the
checkup. We recommend that you bring the recommended lubrication frequency for your
bike in to store 6 weeks after purchase for our area.
free safety check.
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4 After every long or hard ride or after every 10 WARNING: Like any mechanical
to 20 hours of riding: device, a bicycle and its components
are subject to wear and stress. Different
• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike materials and mechanisms wear or fatigue
forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you from stress at different rates and have
feel a clunk with each forward or backward different life cycles. If a component’s life
movement of the bike, you probably have a cycle is exceeded, the component can
loose headset. Have your local 13 dealer suddenly and catastrophically fail, causing
check it. serious injury or death to the rider. Scratches,
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it cracks, fraying and discoloration are signs of
from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part
binding or roughness in the steering, you may is at the end of its useful life and needs to be
have a tight headset. Have your local 13 replaced. While the materials and
dealer check it. workmanship of your bicycle or of individual
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away components may be covered by a warranty
from the centreline of the bike; then do the for a specified period of time by the
same with the other pedal. Anything feel manufacturer, this is no guarantee that the
loose? If so, have your local 13 dealer check product will last the term of the warranty.
it. Product life is often related to the kind of
• Take a look at the brake blocks. Starting to riding you do and to the treatment to which
look worn or not hitting the wheel rim you submit the bicycle. The bicycle’s
squarely? Time to have the local 13 dealer warranty is not meant to suggest that the
adjust or replace them. bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever.
• Carefully check the control cables and cable It only means that the bicycle is covered
housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, subject to the terms of the warranty. Please
have your local 13 dealer replace them. be sure to read Appendix A, Life Expectancy
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on Of Your Bike And Its Components, starting on
either side of each wheel between your thumb page 35.
and index finger. Do they all feel about the
same? If any feel loose, have your local 13 5 If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety
dealer check the wheel for tension and Check (Section 1.C), don’t ride the bike. Have
trueness. your local 13 dealer check the brakes.
• Check to make sure that all parts and
accessories are still secure, and tighten any 6 If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly
that are not. from gear to gear, the derailleur is out of
• Check the frame, particularly in the area adjustment. See your local 13 dealer.
around all tube joints; the handlebars; the
stem; and the seat post for any deep
scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are
signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate
that a part is at the end of its useful life and
needs to be replaced. See Appendix A.
Appendix A
Life Expectancy Of Your Bike And Its Components
1 Nothing Lasts Forever,
Including Your Bike
When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is hazardous.
Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The length of that life will
vary with the construction and materials used in the frame and components; the maintenance
and care the frame and components receive over their life; and the type and amount of use to
which the frame and components are subjected.
Use in competitive events, trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe
terrain, riding in severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types
of non-standard use can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and components. Any one or
a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components will usually have a
shorter life than heavier bicycles and their components. In selecting a lightweight bicycle or
components you are making a tradeoff, favoring the higher performance that comes with lighter
weight over longevity. So, If you choose lightweight, high performance equipment, be sure to
have it inspected frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by your local 13 dealer
for indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint
peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse.
These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to
the rider and shortened product life.
2 Perspective
Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection and service. In this
Appendix we try to explain some underlying material science basics and how they relate to your
bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-offs made in designing your bicycle and what you can
expect from your bicycle; and we provide important, basic guidelines on how to maintain and
inspect it. We cannot teach you everything you need to know to properly inspect and service
your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle to your local 13 dealer
for professional care and attention.
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A. Understanding Metals
Steel is the traditional material for building bicycle frames. It has good characteristics, but in
high performance bicycles, steel has been largely replaced by aluminium and occasionally by
titanium. The main factor driving this change is interest by cycling enthusiasts in lighter bicycles.
Properties of Metals
Please understand that there is no simple statement that can be made that characterizes the
use of different metals for bicycles. What is true is how the metal chosen is applied is much
more important than the material alone. One must look at the way the bike is designed, tested,
manufactured, supported along with the characteristics of the metal rather than seeking a
simplistic answer.
Metals vary widely in their resistance to corrosion. Steel must be protected or rust will attack it.
Aluminium and titanium quickly develop an oxide film that protects the metal from further
corrosion. Both are therefore quite resistant to corrosion. Aluminium is not perfectly corrosion
resistant, and particular care must be used where it contacts other metals as galvanic corrosion
can occur.
Metals are comparatively ductile. Ductile means bending, buckling and stretching before
breaking. Generally speaking, of the common bicycle frame building materials steel is the most
ductile, titanium less ductile, followed by aluminium.
Metals vary in density. Density is weight per unit of material. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm3
(grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm3, aluminium 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast
these numbers with carbon fibre composite at 1.45 grams/cm3.
Metals are subject to fatigue. With enough cycles of use, at high enough loads, metals will
eventually develop cracks that lead to failure. It is very important that you read the basics of
metal fatigue below.
Let’s say you hit a kerb, ditch, rock, car, another cyclist or other object. At any speed above a
fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, momentum carrying you over the front of the
bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike, and what happens to the frame, fork and other
components is irrelevant to what happens to your body. What should you expect from your
metal frame? It depends on many complex factors, which is why we tell you that
crashworthiness cannot be a design criteria. With that important note, we can tell you that if the
impact is hard enough the fork or frame may be bent or buckled.
On a steel bike, the steel fork may be severely bent and the frame undamaged. Aluminium is
less ductile than steel, but you can expect the fork and frame to be bent or buckled. Hit harder
and the top tube may be broken in tension and the down tube buckled. Hit harder and the top
tube may be broken, the down tube buckled and broken, leaving the head tube and fork
separated from the main triangle. When a metal bike crashes, you will usually see some
evidence of this ductility in bent, buckled or folded metal.
It is now common for the main frame to be made of metal and the fork of carbon fibre (see
Section B, Understanding composites below). The relative ductility of metals and the lack of
ductility of carbon fibre, means that in a crash scenario, you can expect some bending or
bucking in the metal but none in the carbon. Below a given load the carbon fork may be intact
even though the frame is damaged. Above that load the carbon fork will be completely broken.
In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that the part has worn out; a sign the
part has reached the end of its useful life.
When your car tyres wear down to the point that the tread bars are contacting the road, those
tyres are not defective. Those tyres are worn out and the tread bar says “time for replacement.”
When a metal part shows a fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “time for replacement.”
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Factors that shorten product life: Factors that lengthen product life:
• Hard, harsh riding style • Smooth, fluid riding style
• ”Hits,” crashes, jumps, other shocks to bike • No “hits,” crashes, jumps, other shocks to bike
• High mileage • Low mileage
• Higher body weight • Lower body weight
• Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider • Less aggressive rider
• Corrosive environment (wet, salt air, winter • Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)
road salt, accumulated sweat)
• Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, • Clean riding environment
soil in the riding environment
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack, bulge or dent,
even a small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component could lead to
complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.
B. Understanding
Composites
All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite materials constructed
of carbon fibres are strong and light, but when crashed or overloaded, carbon fibres do not bend,
they break.
Carbon fibre composites are very corrosion resistant, much more so than most metals. Think
about carbon fibre or fibreglass boats.
Carbon fibre materials have a very high strength-to-weight ratio.
Delamination:
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are made from layers of fabric. Delamination
means that the layers of fabric are no longer bonded together. Do not ride any bicycle or
component that has any delamination.
These are some delamination clues:
• A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks different from the ordinary undamaged areas.
Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny, or “deep,” as if one was looking into a clear liquid.
Delaminated areas will look opaque and cloudy.
• Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs, the surface shape may change. The
surface may have a bump, a bulge, soft spot, or not be smooth and fair.
• A difference in sound when tapping the surface. If you gently tap the surface of an
undamaged composite you will hear a consistent sound, usually a hard, sharp sound. If you
then tap a delaminated area, you will hear a different sound, usually duller, less sharp.
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Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking noises while riding. Think about such a
noise as a serious warning signal. A well maintained bicycle will be very quiet and free of
creaks and squeaks. Investigate and find the source of any noise. It may not be a crack or
delamination, but whatever is causing the noise must be fixed before riding.
C. Understanding
Components
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order to properly and carefully
inspect them. This is a job for a professional bicycle mechanic with the special tools, skills and
experience to inspect and service today’s high-tech high-performance bicycles and their
components.
V2 11/09