10 Things Beginning CNC Milling Machine Users Need To Succeed - CNCCookbook - Be A Better CNC'er

6/25/2020 10 Things Beginning CNC Milling Machine Users Need to Succeed - CNCCookbook: Be A Better CNC'er
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10 Things Beginning CNC Milling Machine

Users Need to Succeed
by Bob War eld | Blog, CNC Basics, CNC Products, DIY CNC, Machining Techniques | 17
comments
Let’s assume you have a working CNC machine that you’ve just acquired, but
that you know very little about CNC. Let’s further assume it is a mill and that
you will be focused on cutting metal. You’re ready to start milling custom
chopper parts, build a tool changer, or scratch build a Colt 1911 handgun. With
CNC, you can build almost anything and you’re chomping at the bit to get
started on your pet projects.
Not so fast! Remember, you just got the machine and you’re a beginner.
You’re not ready for those projects yet.
If you have some idea how to make your rst CNC parts, charge ahead with
these 10 suggestions. Otherwise, you need to see the whole process of making
a part mapped out in detail.

Take a break and go read our Beginner’s Step-By-Step Guide to Making CNC
Parts. It will ll in those hazy details you’ve been wondering about, then, you’re
ready for this article.
https://www.cnccookbook.com/10-things-beginning-cnc-milling-machine-users-need-to-succeed/ 1/25
After that, here are 10 things you should focus on to maximize your chances of
becoming quickly successful: x
1. Buy Some Decent Cutters

Don’t get the

package of
assorted sizes of cheezy imported cutters. You also don’t need the solid green
unobtanium aerospace cutters from Men-In-Black-Cutter-Supply. Get some
decent cutters from a reliable source that has reasonable prices. I like
Lakeshore Carbide for example. Try for a name brand, one that’s on sale.
If you don’t know what the good brands are, check out our End Mill survey. It’ll
show you which brands are most popular and have the highest customer
satisfaction.
Having a decent quality cutter eliminates a whole bunch of problems right up

front. I would also go with HSS when you’re just starting out. You’ll eventually
want carbide for a lot of uses, but HSS is cheaper and more forgiving.

The exception is high speed spindles such as CNC Routers commonly have.
They need carbide to stand up to the higher speeds.
Get yourself a few sizes:
– 1/2″
– 1/4″
– 3/16″
x
Nothing smaller at this stage until you’ve learned on less delicate cutters. Buy 2
or 3 utes for aluminum and some 4 utes for everything else. I’d get 3 of each
in each size to start. You are going to break some cutters, so get over it and
accept the idea. It’s a good thing at this stage to remind you to wear your
safety glasses because you will break some cutters!
While you’re at it, buy a full twist drill assortment. HSS from a decent brand on
sale will work ne. I like the idea of replacing the ones I break with cobalt over
time. That way my most-used sizes wind up higher quality. And one more
twist drill tip–buy screw machine length, not the usual jobber length bits.
The screw machine length bits are more rigid and you will seldom drill super
deep holes anyway.
2. Get a Decent Vise, a Clamping Kit, and a set of Parallels
Yeah, I know, vises are expensive, but workholding is very important.
Get a decent Kurt-style vise for your mill. It’ll be money well spent on a
valuable piece of tooling that will last for years. In my shop I have used Kurts
purchased from eBay and a couple of brand spankin’ new Glacern vises. There
is sneaky stu that goes on when you clamp a workpiece into the vise. If you
don’t have a good one, the workpiece will shift and you’ll be wondering what
happened.
You’ll need a way to mount your vise to the T-slots of your table, so you may as
well get a clamping kit too. Any old kit will do. Buy the one that is on sale at
your favorite supplier.
Lastly, you’ll need a set of parallels, at least until you get pro cient at making
step jaws.
CNC Routers are a di erent story. You’ll mostly be clamping things to your
spoilboard. Do yourself a favor and go read up on how that’s done so you can
get a lot of good ideas before it’s your turn to start clamping.
3. Get yourself a misting setup for coolant and use it while being
paranoid about chip buildup
If your machine didn’t come with ood coolant, and isn’t set up for it (i.e. you
don’t have an enclosure to keep the wet inside), get yourself a misting setup. I
got mine o eBay for about $100. It’s a Noga. There are a lot of di erent
brands. Get a jug of coolant to go with it. I use KoolMist, but again, there are a
lot of brands.
Now train yourself to be paranoid about chip buildup.
Recutting chips is bad for cutters and in the worst case leads to breakage.
Being paranoid means you’re watching the cut like a hawk and you ddle with
your mister’s nozzle until you gure out how to position it right the rst time
and every time thereafter to blow away the chips from the cut. Learn more
about the di erent CNC Coolant options.
If you’re a CNC Router user, the story is di erent, unless you plan to cut a lot of
aluminum. If you’re cutting aluminum, you still need a misting system.
Otherwise, a ShopVac or even just blowing the chips out of the way with
compressed air will serve as you cut wood or plastics.
4. Learn how to use MDI

x
Your next step is to learn to run your CNC as though it was a manual mill with
power feeds and DRO’s on every axis. In the process you’ll learn some basic g-
codes so that you have some idea what your program is doing the rst time
you run a real g-code program (that’s a little ways away yet!). It’s very
convenient to be able to do this trick, and you can learn all about it through our
article on this topic:
[ 9 Easy G-Codes Every Machinist Must Learn ]
Don’t stop there. When you’ve got a grip on MDI, start on the CNCCookbook G-
Code Tutorial.
Start out with the cutter way high and don’t try make any moves in the Z-axis
so you won’t crash the cutter into anything. Practice making moves in X and Y.
Until the cutter goes where you want it to and you’re not making mistakes.
One more trick: don’t use G00 in MDI–that makes the machine move in rapids
mode which is as fast as it can go. Use G01 and set a slow feedrate. “G01 F20”
will make the machine move at 20 inches per minute (or metric units if you’re
in metric). You’ll have a lot more time to react this way if it starts heading into
trouble. Visualize pressing the red E-Stop many times so it’ll be almost
automatic when you need it.
5. Get yourself a feeds and speeds calculator and use it
You’re getting close to making your rst

cuts.
Do yourself a favor and get a feeds and speeds calculator. Trying to gure out
feeds and speeds as a beginner or asking people on forums is a recipe for
frustration and faillure. And it is such a false economy to try to save a few
bucks by skipping the calculator or using a cheezy free online calculator. Stu x
will go wrong that you’re just not equipped to understand. So, get a decent
feeds and
TAKE speeds
ME TO calculator
SECRET PRICESso your
>> spindle speeds and feedrate are perfect
for that rst cut.
We recommend our own CNCCookbook G-Wizard feeds and speeds

calculator (natch!). It doesn’t cost much more than 1 single cutter to get
started, and you can use it for 30-days completely free.
Best of all, there’s a great deal just for beginners and hobbyists that we call “G-
Wizard Lite”:
When you subscribe for 1 year of G-Wizard, you get Lifetime use of the
product for up to 1 horsepower. You can do a lot with 1 HP, especially if
you’re a student or hobbyist. In fact, it may be all the power you ever need!
So check it out, your cutters will thank you and your projects will go by faster
and easier.
6. Get yourself a Z-height measuring gizmo and learn to use it to touch o

your tool lengths. While you’re at it, get an Edge Finder and use it to
touch o your Part Zeros.
Your machine needs to know where the tip of the tool is or terrible things can
happen.
As a beginner, you tell it by using a Z-height measuring gizmo of some kind.

Have a look at our article on the subject to see what’s available. Don’t get
wrapped up in the fancier stu in that article. The rst few options will get your
going.
Learn how to use these to tell the machine what your tool length is. This
process tells your machine where the tip is in Z. To establish the position of X
and Y you’ll need and Edge Finder. The rst thing you’ll do after sticking a piece
of material in your vise and inserting a tool in the spindle is to set these zeros.
You can learn more about touching o and setting part zero from our G-Code
Tutorial. x
Also take a look at our 2-part series on Tool Data Management for information
on Z-Height Gizmos (more properly called touch setters) and tool lengths. Use
your newfound MDI skills from #4 to start using your Edge Finder and Z-Height
Touch Setter.
7. Learn to Tram your Mill and Vise
How to Square and Indicate a Vise on Your…

Your…
How to square and tram your vise on your CNC mill…
Tramming is what machinists call getting things square by sweeping an

indicator around. It’s a basic skill everyone needs to learn.
When you rst start machining, get into the habit of checking your mill’s tram
every time you walk out into the shop. You’ll know later on whether you need
to do it every time, but for now, you could use the practice. While you’re at it,
be sure you know how to tram your vise so the jaws are aligned properly with
one axis or the other. Let’s don’t try to square you mill just yet, but tramming
the mill and vise are a good step at this stage.
For details on how to do this, refer to our Mill Tips and Techniques page.
8. Start out with wood, aluminum, brass, and plastic. Avoid stainless.
Okay, the very next step involves making some cuts. Sorry if it seems like you
had to do a lot before getting there, but I did say I wanted to tell you some x
things that will help you succeed and there’s quite a few things in that category!
One more is to avoid di cult materials for your rst cuts. Stick with aluminum,
brass, or non-metals like plastics and wood.
BTW, nothing wrong with sticking a piece of 2×4 in the machine to learn on,
even if the eventual part is going to be made of metal. I often use wood to
prototype what I’m doing until I get everything right. It’s a lot cheaper than
metal!
When you’re doing okay with softer materials, graduate to mild steel. Only
after you feel like you’ve pretty well mastered cuts in these materials can you
try tougher materials. Master means you’re not breaking or wearing cutters
out too quickly, and your surface nishes no longer look like the material was
attacked by a pack of rabies-infected beavers.
One more thing. It’ll be tempting to try some “mystery metal.” This is metal
you think you know what is, that you got essentially for free, and that is
therefore expendable. Trouble is, a lot of mystery metal is hard to cut. It’s
nasty cheap stu that will break cutters and generally confound you. Not
worth it!
9. For your rst project, learn how to square a block of material and
make yourself a few sets of step jaws in aluminum
Let’s quit procrastinating and make some chips!
For this step, you’re going to start by learning how to square a block of
material. Get your saw and cut out some pieces of material that are slightly x
oversized to serve as vise jaws. Google “Kurt Vise Jaw Dimensions” to nd
drawings
TAKE MEofTOjaws if you PRICES
SECRET need some.
>> As mentioned, cut the stock slightly
oversized from aluminum. Now you need to square those blocks. Squaring
means you will make a series of milling cuts until all sides are properly parallel
or perpendicular to one another, at which point the workpiece is “square”.
The proper steps for squaring a block of material are described on my Turner’s
Cube page. The recipe described there is one I got from the great book,
“Machine Shop Trade Secrets.” Pick up a copy to continue your learning
process.
One thing about the Turner’s Cube material squaring: I use a Face Mill, but you
should start out doing it with multiple passes and a 1/2″ endmill. Why?
Because Face Mills generate a lot of force. You can stall the spindle, yank the
work out of the vise and throw it across the room, and other shenanigans a
beginner could do without.
Leave the face mill in a drawer if you have one already and do it with a 1/2″
endmill the rst time until you know a little more what you’re doing. Same
goes for y cutters, and for the CNC Router crowd, those big cutters you use to
surface spoilboards. You’re not ready for them yet.
Having squared the material, your next task is to cut it to size by continuing to
mill it until it is a perfect t for your vise jaws (you’ll need 2 square pieces, one
for each jaw). The last step is to drill and countersink the mounting holes.
Actually, I wasn’t completely truthful. Once you have mounting holes, the last
step is to mill a step along each jaw, maybe 1/8″ square. Now you can use that
step instead of parallels when you drop material into the vise. Over time, you’ll
learn a lot more tricks with aluminum jaws, but remember: it all started here
with your rst set.
10. Graduate to CAD/CAM
Friend, you’re now able to do the basics. Sure, there’s a lot more learning to
do, but you’re in a position to have a leg up on the manual machinist down the
street who has a Bridgeport and no CNC. Your next step is to start pumping
out the g-code. To do that, you’ll need to be pro cient with CAD/CAM. This is
going to be your biggest step yet. Neither CAD nor CAM is very easy to learn. x
I give myself 2 weeks to feel comfortable with a new program, and I’ve had the
luxury of learning quite a few so far. If this is your rst time, get ready to drink
from the rehose.
I have put together a bunch of pointers to make it as easy as possible for you to
choose the best CAD CAM software for your needs. Check out our Best
CADCAM Software for Beginners article. It is chock full of buying guides,
evaluation tips, how to learn ideas, and best of all, it has a guide to the secret
deals on the most popular packages that can save you money. These are deals
most people have no idea exist, including one from CNCCookbook.
Bonus: Delay the need for CAD/CAM a little while with Conversational
CNC
Many talented manual machinists run afoul of CADCAM and it stalls their ability
to be productive on CNC machines quickly. Even after they’ve learned
CADCAM, they’re still left with the feeling that manual machining can make
simple parts faster than CNC, because they don’t have to stop to make a CAD
drawing and run it through the CAM package to get g-code.
Instead, they can just make a simple bracket with 4 holes shooting from the
hip.
Conversational CNC makes it possible to do that with a CNC machine. Imagine

changing the long essay test that is CADCAM to a quick multiple-choice quiz.
That’s what Conversational CNC is all about. Here’s the pictorial menu of
Conversational CNC operations that can be performed on a mill:
You pick the operation, a popup asks a few simple questions, you press the
Insert button, and you’ve got your g-code. We’ve built Conversational CNC right
into our G-Wizard Editor product so you won’t have to purchase an expensive
stand alone Conversational package.
You’ll still need to learn CADCAM, but with Conversational CNC you can be
making simple parts before nishing the CADCAM learning curve.
Congratulations, you’ve got some Basic CNC Skills!
Congratulations, you’ve learned enough to start doing some useful things with
a little con dence. If you can design and generate g-code for basic parts with
CAD/CAM software, you’re particularly pro cient. But stay tuned because
there’s a follow up on this article. It’s another installment of things you can do
to reach the next level of pro ciency. There’s always something more to learn–
it’s one of the things that makes CNC so interesting!

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6/25/2020 10 Things Beginning CNC Milling Machine Users Need to Succeed - CNCCookbook: Be A Better CNC'er

TAKE ME TO SECRET PRICES >>

10 Things Beginning CNC Milling Machine

1. Buy Some Decent Cutters

Don’t get the

Having a decent quality cutter eliminates a whole bunch of problems right up

2. Get a Decent Vise, a Clamping Kit, and a set of Parallels

Yeah, I know, vises are expensive, but workholding is very important.

TAKE ME TO SECRET PRICES >>

Now train yourself to be paranoid about chip buildup.

4. Learn how to use MDI

[ 9 Easy G-Codes Every Machinist Must Learn ]

5. Get yourself a feeds and speeds calculator and use it

You’re getting close to making your rst

We recommend our own CNCCookbook G-Wizard feeds and speeds

6. Get yourself a Z-height measuring gizmo and learn to use it to touch o

As a beginner, you tell it by using a Z-height measuring gizmo of some kind.

7. Learn to Tram your Mill and Vise

How to Square and Indicate a Vise on Your…

How to square and tram your vise on your CNC mill…

Tramming is what machinists call getting things square by sweeping an

Let’s quit procrastinating and make some chips!

10. Graduate to CAD/CAM

Conversational CNC makes it possible to do that with a CNC machine. Imagine

TAKE ME TO SECRET PRICES >>

Congratulations, you’ve got some Basic CNC Skills!

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