D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :

Spiral Fold

The spiral fold occurs when fabric is wrapped around a tubular form and then compressed and/or
twisted. This creates a series of diagonal and curved lines that emulate a spiral. These folds will
radiate out and widen from their supports, usually at a bent joint like the elbow. This is a repetitive
fold that can create some very beautiful patterning. It is important to observe the way to folds will
spiral from one tension point to another. Look for the way the folds stiffly radiate out from the
shoulder joint, but twist and spiral away from the elbow, one twisting into the other.

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

- TIP -
In the case of a spiral fold, it can
help to think of it as a series of
grommets or bands wrapped
around a cylinder at varying angles.

- TIP -
It can also help to identify straights
along the parameter of the cylinder.
This will help to imply the underly-
ing form.

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

ASSIGNMENT 5: CONSTRUCTING A SPIRAL FOLD

Part 1: Watch the video demonstrating these principles. Then, refer to the handouts. This will
not be the most exciting exercise but pivotal to your ability to simplify complex forms.

Part 2: Using a piece of fabric set up a spiral fold in your studio, or use the photo provided on
page 4, and use this as reference to do a drawing. This should be a sustained effort, DO
NOT rush through this. I would set aside a full day or more to do this study.

Part 3: Once you feel you have developed a good understanding of this fold try setting up some
random drapery, and see if you can identify some of the seven basic folds. Do a drawing
study from these folds attempting to redesign them into a clearer, more aesthetically
pleasing pattern

Note: Refer to the supplemental book list on the materials page for further resources to study.
The object here is to give you a working understanding of these essential concepts. True mastery
of these concepts will come over weeks and months of study. A suggestion would be to start each
drawing session with a 20 minute warm up of drapery quick-sketches.

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

To best begin a spiral fold try to identify the pattern of the spiral. The cloth will generally be
pulled towards tension points (in this case the upper “corners” of the cylinder) and relax into a
more regular banding in between.

- TIP -
As much as is possible try to
create a continuous pattern
out of the spirals. Simultane-
ously try to avoid repetition.

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

When blocking in the shadows of a spiral fold start by identifying the foundational cylinder, and
use this as the basis for the shadow pattern as well. Then proceed to break up the shadow with the
spiralling “bands”

- TIP -
Endeavour to strike a balance
between the cylinder and the
folds that spiral around it.
Tighter fabrics will cause the
cylinder to be more dominant,
while loose fabric will be
dominated by the spirals.

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 D R A P E R Y F U N D A M E N TA L S :
Spiral Fold

In the final pass of your drawing try using highlights to create emphasis on the more dominant
bands, and lack of or softening of highlights to play down more submissive folds. A stronger
contrast of hard and soft edges can imply a sense of overlap in the most extreme folds.

- TI P -
Highlights and halftone can
also be used to create closer,
and imply continuation of a
fold as it passes into the light
side of the larger form.

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