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Jonathan Shapiro Anjaria, Is There A Culture of The Indian Street
Jonathan Shapiro Anjaria, Is There A Culture of The Indian Street
This encounter took place two years before the first of thirty-two (and
counting) pedestrian skywalks were constructed in Mumbai.1 At that
time the idea of a pedestrian bridge sounded preposterous, thoroughly
out of touch with how the city’s streets function. Why was the solution
to congestion sought in the sky, when there was one so clearly on the
ground, we wondered? Was the skywalk meant to benefit pedestrians,
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or discipline them? It wasn’t quite clear. But these questions missed the
point. Literally and figuratively soaring above the city, projects like this
operate on a logic of urban fantasy and globally-scaled aspiration; the
dream to rise above the ‘mess’ of the street, as an official is quoted
saying (Siddhaye 2011), needs no technical justification.
It was 2006, no skywalk had been built, and yet, skywalks were
shaping the reality of the city. Their imminent arrival shaped how
people interpreted streets, their use, and the potential design
interventions that can transform them. This encounter can teach us
much about how the city works – about, for instance, the way local
authorities shape the built environment, the nature of bureaucratic rule
and transportation-related decision making processes – but more
importantly, it demonstrates how urban fantasies continue to animate
the reality of the street. It shows the presence of unactualized structures
in the tactile environment of the city. This presence is a constitutive
element of what might be called the ‘culture’ of the Indian street; the
experience, function and aesthetic form of the street are inseparable
from the spectre of dreams for what a modern, global or ‘world-class’
urban landscape should look like.
Writings on the street in India can be grouped into two categories. The
first sees the street as a space of difference. These are writings by non-
Indians and Indians alike that – whether as emblematic of the ‘exotic
Orient’ (Kidambi 2007: 35), ‘premature’ (Bose 1965), or
underdeveloped – see streets ‘seething with miscellaneous humanity’
(Low 1907: 23), as deviations from modern ideals. The second group
sees streets and urban space as manifestations of power, arenas on
which forces of global capital and ideologies of neo-liberalism unfold
(Rajagopal 2001, Whitehead and More 2007 and Arabindoo 2010).
And finally the third perspective, what might be called a ‘culturalist’
approach, frames Indian streetscapes in terms of their unique rhythms
and logic of practice (Appadurai 1987, Ahuja 1997, Edensor 1998 and
Mehta 2009).
Representations of the street: The Indian street has not fared well over
the past two centuries. From Naipaul’s street scenes consisting of
‘depressed-looking, dark people …eating, indifferent to everything but
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In much travel writing on India, the street offers a glimpse into another
world. ‘When we reached the native town how changed was the
scene… Europe was left behind and the East was realized – the narrow,
winding streets, the open shops, small but highly characteristic, where
the owner, Hindoo, Mahomedan, or Jew squatted among his wares’
(quoted in Kidambi 2007: 35). This chronicler of late 19th century
Bombay observed not just a broken world – a world of poverty, dirt and
despair – but an inverted one: a world, as an observer put it at the turn
of the century, in which people ‘do all sorts of things in public which to
our thinking should be transacted in privacy’ (Low 1907: 23-24).
Indeed, on most streets in urban India people are walking, but they are
also working, cooking, talking, eating, sleeping, reading or simply
hanging out. People brush their teeth, wash their face, chop vegetables
and clean dishes. On the quiet residential street in front of the
apartment where I stay in northwest Mumbai, the day begins with a
woman selling tea next to her husband, an occasional banana vendor.
Their grandchild plays on a scooter while his father washes his
autorickshaw. By the late afternoon, a cigarette and paan vendor
appears across the road. Around the corner, a vendor toasts sandwiches
opposite a man selling nimbus and leafy green vegetables from a small
pushcart. A raddiwala cycles by, collecting old newspapers. An
itinerant barber, his equipment stored in a small briefcase, sits in the
shade of a shoe repairman’s roadside stall. A block away, a cluster of
women sell vegetables perched against a fence, a man fries pakodas
from a small metal stand, others prepare chaat and vada pao. Beneath
an old tree, magazines are displayed next to two young men repairing
tires, stacks of which are used to support a table for their neighbours’
food preparation.
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again. We move through main lanes and streets every day, sometimes
negotiating the traffic, at other times, garbage, and often even the
marriage procession of a man we do not know but recognize’ (Mehta
2009: 4).
This is a geography that challenges the pedestrian, drawing him into the
urban realm. ‘The body passing through the Indian street is continually
imposed upon and challenged by diverse activities, sensations and
sights which render a state at variance to the restrained and distanced
distraction of the western street’ (Edensor 1998: 213). Eschewing
earlier interpretations of dense streetscapes as signs of civilizational
inferiority (e.g. Low 1907) or infrastructural failure, Edensor sees them
as models for what has been lost in the West. To him, mixed use, the
blurring of boundaries between public and private, and the rich sensory
experience are signs of streets that are ‘less circumscribed and framed
by the power of capital and bureaucracy’ (Edensor 1998: 219).
reinterprets messy streetscapes as redemptive spaces. Jarring
streetscapes invigorate, they heighten the senses and invigorate social
engagement. Indeed, this is a street spectacle that challenges ‘the
passive’ ideal that, since the late 18th century, has dominated the
European urban experience (Sennett 1994: 16-21; cf. Edensor 1998:
214).
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‘The great novelty of urban life… does not consist in having thrown the
people into the street, but in having raked them up and shut them into
offices and houses’ (Moretti 1983: 127); and yet, it is precisely the vast
mix of people and activities in public that writers identify as a
characteristic feature of the Indian street. Is the answer to these
questions simply to say that the category of the modern is irrelevant?
Or, that the Eurocentricism of mainstream urban theory can only be
overcome by expanding the category to include radically different
urban forms and practices? Alternatively, I suggest that we might see
difference from the category of the modern (however much of a myth
that category is) as constituting a predicament that is an extricable part
of the experience of the urban Indian streetscape.
Any discussion of the culture of the Indian street has to take into
account the fact that today’s Indian streetscapes are an accumulation of
a century and a half of municipal, police and elite residents’ efforts to
transform them. This does not mean the street has been subsumed into a
logic of architectural modernism; but equally, nor does the street
represent a complete inversion of it. From the introduction of motorized
transport at the turn of the century, which authorities hoped would have
the effect of ‘teaching the native to look ahead and to perceive that the
middle of the road is not the place for an aimless saunter’ (quoted in
Hazareesingh 2007: 66); mid-century bureaucrats’ discussions of the
necessary sidewalk maintenance ‘if the pedestrian is to be kept off the
road’ (The Greater Bombay Scheme 1945: 25); and to more recent
efforts to discipline street users such as the erection of fences meant to
keep pedestrians separate from automotive traffic, efforts to reshape the
street practices in India have largely failed (cf. Chakrabarty 2002).
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What sets the street in Mumbai or New Delhi apart from streets in
North America and Europe is thus not a different ‘culture’ or street
practice (we can see bits of the Jane Jacobs’ ‘street ballet’, as well as
the drudgery of architectural modernism in New York City as much as
in Mumbai), but in the way fantasies of other cities haunt everyday life.
Read the New York Times and the countless urbanist blogs on New York
City, and you get the sense that the future of that city emanates from
within itself. By contrast, the model for the future Indian street is in
Singapore, Dubai and Shanghai; its potential to become a modern city
is presumed to be in its ability to emulate urban landscapes elsewhere.
Footnotes:
1. Mumbai’s skywalks were built by the MMRDA, a statewide agency responsible for
infrastructural development that is independent from the BMC. Nevertheless it is clear
from this encounter that BMC officials were aware of the MMRDA’s future plans.
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2. That is not to say that representations of the street in India as spaces of social
isolation and alienation are impossible. See, for instance, Karin Zitzewitz’s (2009)
readings of Sudhir Patwardhan’s Bombay paintings.
References:
Sarayu Ahuja, Where the Streets Lead. Penguin, New Delhi, 1997.
Arjun Appadurai, ‘Street Culture’, The India Magazine 8(1), December 1987, pp. 12-
22.
Marshall Berman, ‘Take it to the Streets: Conflict and Community in Public Space’,
Dissent, Fall 1986, pp. 476-85.
Marshall Berman, All That is Solid Melts Into Air: The Experience of Modernity. Simon
and Schuster, New York, 1982.
Dipesh Chakrabarty, ‘Of Garbage, Modernity, and the Citizen’s Gaze’, in Habitations of
Modernity: Essays in the Wake of Subaltern Studies. University of Chicago Press,
Chicago, 2002, pp. 65-79.
Partha Chatterjee, The Politics of the Governed: Reflections on Popular Politics in Most
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Tim Edensor, ‘The Culture of the Indian Street’, in Nicholas R. Fyfe (ed.), Images of the
Street: Planning, Identity and Control in Public Space. Routledge, London, 1998, pp.
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