CONCISE HISTORY OF KAYALPATNAM

By Dr.R.S.Abdul Latiff, M.A.D.Litt.

Kayalpatnam is an ancient historical city of India. It lies in the southeast part of Indian
peninsula, on the shore of the Bay of Bengal. It is a Muslim dominant town situated in
Thoottukudi district and formally it was in Tirunelveli district. It is about 400 miles from Madras
and 100 miles from Tiruvandrum and Madurai.

Kayalpatnam was chief trade emporium even before the advent of Islam and it was chief port of
Malabar to which Arabs and Greeks were frequent visitors. During the lifetime of our beloved
holy prophet Muhammad (Sal.) Islamic missionaries were sent to Malabar to preach the peace
mission of Islam.

The First settlement in Kayalpatnam occurred in 633 A.D. (Hijiri 12). The first settlers were
from Mecca and Medina and landed here during the reign of the first caliph, the successor of our
prophet Muhammad (Sal), Ameerul momeneen Hazarat seyedna Abubakar Siddeeq (Rali).

From 1980 onwards I closely inspected the archaeological remains of Kayalpatnam as well
studied the available oldest documents in papers, leaves, and metals. I have seriously studied the
various rare inscriptions found in Kayalpatnam and consulted some expert archaeologists with
the contents of inscriptions and obtained their opinions. According to the eminent Historians,
Greeks, Romans and Arabs visited Kayal even before the advent of Muslim missionaries of
Arabia.

Through our ancient saintly scholar's records, we made out the first Muslim settlement in
Kayalpatnam happened during the lifetime of Hazarath Abu Bakar Siddeeq (Rali). In 1998,
Abdur Rahman Walliyullah of Cumbum, a close associate of Kayalpatnam Omar Walliyullah
and Peria Muthu Wappa Waliyullah, while discussing about the early history of Kayalpatnam,
confirmed Islam entered Kayalpatnam through Arab traders and Muslim missionaries during the
reign of the first Caliph Hazarth Abu Bakar Siddeeq (Rali). Further he said that Sea Shore
Masjid (Kadal Karai Palli) was the first mosque and added saints who ever visited Kayalpatnam
never missed to pray at this mosque.

The Second settlement took place in 842 A.D. (Hijiri 227). They came from Cairo in Egypt
during the tyrannical rule of Abbasi caliph Al-Multhazim (841 A.D.) and the beginning of caliph
Al-Wadiq's rule, (842 A.D.), under the leadership of Muhammad Khalji (Rah). Big Jamiah
mosque (Kuthba Periya Palli) was built by Muhammad Khalji in 843 A.D. (Hijiri 228). Kayal
was the name of the place till the advent of Muhammad Khalji. After his arrival, the southern
part of Kayal is named as Kahirfathan after the name of his own town "Kahira" in Egypt.
Kahirfathan in Arabic is slowly changed into Kayalpatnam in Tamil. The northern part of Kayal
is called Old Kayal (Palaiya Kayal and Punna Kayal).

The Third batch of Arabs (third settlement) came from Arabia in 1284 A.D under the leadership
of Sultan Jamaluddin, who was a descendant of holy prophet Muhammad (Sal.), a business
magnate, a statesman and a famous ruler of Pandiyan kingdom. His descendants are still living in
Kayalpatnam and they have their genealogical table from Sultan Jamaluddin.

Indian historians and many famous foreign travelers and historians of the west perfectly made
known that Kayalpatnam is situated near the Tamira Parani river about a mile from its mouth in
Tirunelvelli district presently Tuticorin district and Kayalpatnam is also distinctly identified with
Islam from 8th century.

Kail, was long a famous port on the coast of what is now the Tirunelveli district of the Madras
presidency. It is mentioned as part of Malabar by Polo's contemporary Rashiduddin. Kail is
definitely the one situated on the Tamraparani River about 1 & half miles from its mouth.
(Travels of Marco polo translated by Sir Henry Yule). Famous travelers and historians like
Abdullah Wasaf, Rasheeduddin, Ibn Batuta and Marco Polo gave some information about
Kayalpatnam in their books. The works of Dr. Rev. Bishop Caldwell, Sir Elliot, Col-Henry Yule,
Sir John Emerson Tennant, Sir Simon Casio Chitty and Sir Ponnambalam Ramanathan,
incidentally, the latter mentioned six writers, substantiate, the view that the Arabs had settled
first at Kayalpatnam and there from spread to the other parts of eastern coast of India and
Ceylon.

A historical Atlas of South Asia edited by J.E. Schwartzberg, University of Chicago press,
Chicago, printed in 1928, shows that famous Korkai and Kayal were situated on the delta of the
Tamira Parani. Bishop R. Caldwell writes in his book "History of Tirunelvelli" that both places
are situated on the delta of Tamira Parani. Korkai within five miles, Kayal within two miles on
the sea but each was originally on the seacoast. A well known Indian historian K.A. Nilakanda
Sastri narrates in his book "History of south India" that once the wealthy commercial cities of
Korkai and Kayal on the Tirunelvelli coast, which were flourishing in thirteenth century are now
buried under sand dunes miles from the sea. According to Vascodagama, Kayal was on the
Tirunelvelli coast where pearls were found. It was under Mussalman King. (His book'Reteriro)
Travelers like Masudi and Ibn Batuata testify to the presence of Muslims and mosques all along
the west coast. There were Muslim settlements on the east coast of which Kayalpatnam and
Nagore were the most important. (History of India' Nilakanda Sastri)

Maps showing Religious movements on the 8th to 12th centuries in India published by Menesto
University in U.S.A., in which Kayalpatnam and Nagore are identified with Islam. According to
Abdullah Wassaf, a Persian historian, a contemporary of Marco polo Kayal was the port of
Malabar. During the reign of Malabar king Sultan Shaik Malabar, his administrative office was
at Kayalpatnam. He died on Hijiri 628 (1231 A.D) and buried here. His tomb is near panchayat
board very close to the house of Sahib Thambi Alim, former principal of Mahalara Arabic
College on the way to Koman Street. Descriptions were given in Arabic on the tomb.

Kayal was very ancient place. Five thousand years ago it was the capital of second Tamil
Sangam, called Kapadapuram. According to historians Kapadapuram was very close to
Tiruchendur. Once Kapadapuram was called as Alaiwaiport. Abraham Pandithar says that
Greeks in those days named it as Periplus port. Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister
of India, in his book "Discovery of India" mentioned Madurai was the capital of Pandiyan
Kingdom and Kayal was its port during the reign of Pandiyan Kings.
A great Tamil Scholar Mr. S.M.L. Lakshman Chettiar (Alias Samala) wrote in his book
"Tirunelvelli District" that Kayalpatnam was a very famous port in Pandiyan kingdom during
12th and 13th centuries. Thousand years ago Muslims from Arab countries arrived by ships and
settled here. Kayalpatnam was also called as Sonoharpattinam. Kayalpatnam port was closed on
1937.

First mosque in Kayalpatnam: Sea Shore (Kadal Karai) Masjid

Sea Shore Masjid (Kadal karai Palli) was the first mosque which was built by the Arab traders
and missionaries (mostly sahabas), who landed at Kayalpatnam in Hijiri 12 A.H (633 A.D)
during the lifetime of Hazarat Abu Bakar Siddeeq (Rali). According to professor Dr. Kabeer of
Calicut University a mosque was built in Kayalpatnam during the reign of the second Caliph the
great ruler of the Arabs and the aliens, Ameerul Momeneen Hazarat Seyedna Umar Farooq
(Rali.), (13 A.H & 23 A.H). No doubt that Sea Shore (Kadal karai) mosque was the first mosque
in Kayalpatnam, which was situated near the present Kosmarai Dargha. I assume that this Sea
Shore (Kadal karai) mosque was built between 633 A.D to 640 A.D. This mosque was on the
south side of Kosmarai Dargha, which was ruined hundred years ago. But two precious
inscriptions were found near the Sea Shore (Kadal karai) mosque. One inscription describes
about the land and subsidies were given by the Pandiyan king to this sea Shore (Kadal karai)
mosque. Through this inscription we learn that Pavithra Manikka Pattinam and Kayal Thurai
were the other names for Kayalpatnam. Another inscription is a tombstone of Sayyid Ahamed
Bin Shaheed Ibnu Muhammad Kareem Madani. He died in Hijiri 430 (1038 A.D). He was a
great scholar and a famous saint. His contemporary was saint Nathar Wali of Tiruchi.

Second mosque in Kayalpatnam: Big Jamiah (Kutba Periya) Masjid

Big Jamiah mosque (Kutba Periya Palli) was built by Muhammad Khalji and his friends in 843
A.D (Hijiri 228). He was one of the 13th descendants of the first Caliph, Hazarat Sayedna Abu
Bakar Siddeeq (Rali) and he is a saintly person. His tomb is in the graveyard of big Jamiah
mosque. His pedigree (family tree) was mentioned on the tomb stone. Some of his important
descendants were Shaik Ali Nusky Wali (Buried at Magudoom Mosque), Omar Wali (Buried at
Thaika Saahib Thaika), Muttu Wappa Wali alias Syed Ahamed Sahib wali (Buried at Periya
Muttu Wappa Thaika) and Periya Shaikuna Miskeen Sahib Alim. Still many of his descendants
are living in Kayalpatnam. Sultan Sayyid Jamaluddin a descendant of our holy prophet
Muhammad (Sal.) who lived in Kayalpatnam between 1284 to 1320 rebuilt big Jamiah mosque
into a huge mosque and it was completed by his son in 1329 A.D. It is in Nainar Street, the first
street of Kayalpatnam. It is one of the most significant Islamic monuments in south India.
Inscriptions inside the mosque denote the year of construction by Muhammad Khalji and
reconstruction by Sultan Sayyid Jamaluddin. Sultan Sayyid Jamaluddin ruled Pandiyan kingdom
for a short period immediately after the death of Sundra Pandiyan in 1293 A.D. It was once said
by a great person that more than 25000 saints were buried in the two graveyards of Jamiah
mosque. In few of the old tombstones the name of the town was mentioned as Vaguthai and
Pavithra Manikka Pattinam.

Third mosque in Kayalpatnam: Black (Karup-Udaiyar) Masjid

Mosque is a place for prayers (Salat), remembrance of Allah (Dhikr), recitation of the Quran,
seclusion(Itikaf) and for many other good functions. Needless to say as a hadith states "The
places on the earth which are dearest to Allah are the mosques". The pious Muslims who used to
wear long black dresses at that time mostly practiced seclusion (Itikaf) in this mosque. Therefore
this mosque was called as Black (Karup-udaiyar) Masjid (based on their black dress). The exact
date of the construction of this mosque was unknown. According to the inscription in the
mosque, a Pandiyan King named Veera Pandiyan gave land and paddy fields for the maintenance
of this mosque. This King ruled Pandiyan Kingdom approximately on 946 A.D. Hence we
assume that this mosque was built 1050 years ago. Pavithira Manikkaa Pattinam, Kayal karai and
Kahirur were the other names for Kayalpatnam as per inscriptions. This mosque is near
Muhyideen Matriculation Higher Secondary School.

Fourth mosque in Kayalpatnam: Kattu Mogudoom (Kattu Mogudoom) Masjid

It is in the southern end of Kayalpatnam touching Veerapandipattinam. Sayyid Mogudoom
Walliyullah was born in Madina in 446 A.H. and his parents named him as Muhammad. He was
one of the seventeenth descendants of our beloved Holy prophet Muhammad (sal). His father
Sayyid Muhammad (Rah) a great scholar, was greatly respected by the people of Madina. His
mother was Mogudoom Fathima alias Sayyid Ali Fathima was a holy lady. The Mosque and
Dargha were called Mogudoom Palli and Mogudoom Dargha after her name Mogudoom
Fathima. It was told that Mogudoom Waliyullah came here after getting instructions and
blessings in a dream from our Noble prophet Muhammad (Sal). The exact date of his arrival was
unknown. He built the mosque during his stay (500-539 A.H). He spread Islam in Pandiyan
kingdom and helped Pandiyan kings whenever they approached him. He was killed in a war
(shaheed) and buried here around 539 A.H. His father and Erwadi Sayyid Ibrahim Waliyullah's
grandfather were brothers.

The celebrated Islamic scholars and saints like Hujjuthul Islam Imam Gazzalee (Rah) (450-505
A.H), Ghouthul Alam Muhyiddeen Abdul Khadir Jailani (Rah) (470-560 A.H), and Mogudoom
Wali (Rah) (446-539 A.H) were all lived in the same period. Two inscriptions were found at
Mogudoom Mosque, one near the pond and the other in between the Mosque and the Dargha.
The inscription found near the pond is very important in history because it clearly indicated the
boundaries of Kayalpatnam and other ancient names for Kayalpatnam. Inscriptions strongly
confirmed Kayalpatnam was called as "Vaguthai" and "Pavithira Manikka Pattinam". As per
inscription, Korkai was on the north side and Veerapandian Pattinam was on the south side of
Kayalpatnam. The inscription found near the pond belonged to the period of first Maravarman
Sundra Pandiyan. According to Mr.N.Sethu Raman's book of Imperial Pandiyan, the king ruled
Pandiyan Kingdom between 1216 to 1240 A.D. According to the inscription Kayalpatnam was
called "Pavithira Manikka Pattinam" and "Kayal Thurai". Kattu Mogudoom Palli was called
"Sonavapil-lar Palli".

Here we have to compare the contents of the Kattu Mogudoom Palli's inscriptions with that of
the inscription at Tiru Pullani Koil, which was mentioned by Dr.M.Uvais in his book "Islam
Valartha Tamil". Dr.Uvais noted that Tiru Pullani Koil's inscription mentioned about the land
and subsidy granted by the king first Maravarman Sundara Pandiyan to Sonava Samantha Palli
of Pavithira Manikka Pattinam. Dr.Uvais wondered where this famous Pavithira Manikka
Pattinam was?. The contents of Kattu Mogudoom Palli's inscriptions and Tiru Pullani Koil's
inscriptions were similar and also the name of the king and the name of the town were also alike.
It is a must to find out which town was called as Vaguthai and Pavithira Manikka Pattinam. Saint
Mappillai Lebbai Alim in his poem "Hadiya Malai" says that Saint Thaika Sahib Wali was born
in Vaguthai and died at Keela Karai. He also strongly confirmed that Vaguthai as Kayalpatnam.
He also born at Kayalpatnam, lived and died at Keela Karai.

Regarding Pavithira Manikka Pattinam and Vaguthai, we can gather some very important
information from two old tombstones found at graveyard of Periya Jumma Palli. The following
matters were inscribed on the tombstones.
1. PavithiraManikkaPattinam VaguthaiPuri Kayal Athipar Nila-Kilar Maraividam Koallam.
2. Vaguthaiyana ThenKayalpattinathu--Mannavaruku Marukar Kazi--SembiNattan--Yunbavar
Maraividam.
These two old tombs made stronger the opinion that Kayalpatnam was called as "Vaguthai",
"Pavithira Manikka Pattinam" and also "ThenKayal". The oldest Tamil literature now partly
available is Palchanda Malai. It contained eight poems, which dealt with a Muslim king who
ruled Vaguthai Puri. The people of that area were very pious Muslims and that was why the poet
called them as Anju Vannathar. (Prayed five times daily). The words frequently used in
Palchanda Malai poems like Vacchira Nadu, Vaguthai, Sonakar, Allah, Califa, Sonavapil-lar
Palli are commonly found in the inscriptions of Kayalpatnam.

Mr.Arunachalam a great scholar was of the opinion that Palchanda Malai was written in the
earliest part of fourteenth century and the king mentioned in the poems should be Muslim king
who ruled Pandiyan kingdom during the end of thirteenth century or earlier part of fourteenth
century. Dr.Caldwell confirmed in his book that Sulthan Jamaluddin ruled Pandiyan Kingdom
immediately after the death of Sundara Pandiyan in 1293 A.D. Professor Vaiya Puri Pillai; a
renowned Tamil scholar strongly said that Kayalpatnam was called as "Vaguthai Puri" and
"Vacchira Nadu" in ancient days. (Refer "KAYALPATNAM"- Book, chapters- Vaguthai,
Pavithira Manikka Pattinam and Kayalin kalvettu)

Another inscription of Kattu Mogudoom Palli was inscribed in 1387 A.D during the rule of
Uthaya Marthandam King. According to this inscription the Mogudoom Palli was called Uthaya
Marthandam Periya Palli and this area was named as Khonadu (Shonadu) Kondan Pattinam. The
king had given right to Kazi (administrator) to levy import duties on goods imported into this
port and to use for the maintenance of this mosque. This inscription was recorded by the
Department of Archaeology,Annual Report of Indian Epigraphy for 1949-50.

The other oldest mosques in Kayalpatnam are Small Jamiah (Kutba Siru) Masjid, Mogudoom
Masjid of Mogudoom street and Yusuf Appa Palli. According to available tombstones evidences
and inscriptions, those mosques were constructed during the thirteenth century. But it is very
difficult to predict which mosque was built first among the three. The best example of fifteenth
century mosque is Erattai Kulathu Palli alias Masjid Mikail. The brothers Ahmed Nainar and
Abdur Rasheed Wali built Ahmed Nainar Masjid and Kodi Mara Siru Nainar Masjid around
Hijiri 950 respectively. The constructions of following mosques were built after 1400 A.D. They
are Salahuddeen Masjid, Kadai Masjid, Kutty Appa Masjid, Koman Masjid, Maricar Masjid,
Hafil Ameer Masjid, Appa Masjid, Thayim Masjid and Aram Masjid.
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