PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION The importance of quality assurance has remained equal if not increased till date despite the overall improvement in the quality of yarns and fabrics which has taken place over the years. To control the quality of the products one need to assess them objectively. The book “Textile Testing - Fibre, Yarn and Fabric” was published in 2001 to cater the need of textile industry towards quality assurance. Though the title says “Testing’ the book contain information on the influence of various raw material and process parameters on quality of products such as yarns and fabrics, how to control the same and interpretation of test data based on SITRAS rich experience. In this edition the ‘Norms’ mentioned in various chapters have been updated and information on control measures have been updated based on last five years research and consultancy experiences. A detail write-up on yarn imperfections have been added. Few key instruments have been upgraded by the manufacturers during last five years, information on most of them have been added in this edition. I hope that this book will be useful to the management and technical staff of textile units, researchers as well as students like the earlier edition. SITRA Dr. Arindam Basu Coimbatore - 641 014 Director August 20061. 2. wn CONTENTS Sampling & Interpretation of Test results .... Fibre Length... Introduction .... Stapling Method . Comb Sorter 23 Optical Scanning Method 29 Digital Fibrograph....... High Volume Instrument Advanced Fibre Instrument System Relation between Different Measures ..... Tensile Properties Introduction Terms related to Tensile Properties Pressley Fibre Strength Tester High Volume Instrument .. Single Fibre Strength Testing Fibre Fineness Gravimetric Method Microscopic Method Air Flow Method... Opto Electrical Method Direct Methods ... Indirect Methods .. Fineness of Yarn . . Yarn Friction & Abrasion Moisture Testing Direct Methods . Indirect Methods Correction of Invoice Weight Trash Content Gravimetric Methods .. Opto Electrical Methods 135 Sampling and Interpretation of Test Results .... Indirect System Direct System ... Measurement of Yarn Count . 146 . Tensile Properties of Yarn. 149 Skein Test Method .. 149 Single Yarn Strength 152 Influence of Fibre Properties and Yarn Twist 161 Influence of Testing Parameters .. 162 Tensile Testing at High Speed ...... 168 . Yarn Hairiness ..... 179 Factors Affecting Hairiness Instruments .. Comparison of Different Testing Methods Influence of Testing Speed 181 189 194. 197 198 204 205 209 Friction between Yarns Friction between Yarn and Hot Pin . Principle of Testing Abrasion Method Testing of Abrasiveness ....16. 18. . Unevenness and Imperfections . Infrequent Yarn Faults & Appearance . Testing of Fabric Specifications Principle of Measurement .. Short, Medium & Long Term Variation . Meaning of U% or CV%... Steps for Controlling Irregularity Frequency of Testing Imperfections ....... Principle of Testing Factors Influencing Classimat Faults Methods to Reduce Classimat Fault ASTM Method of Yarn Appearance ...... Yarn Appearance by Electronic Instrument Measurement of Twist Twist Direction Direct Counting Method...... Multiple Untwist-twist Method . Sampling of Fabric Length of Woven Fabric . Width of Woven Fabric Mass per Unit Area . Thread Count .... Yarn Crimp or Take-Up in Woven Fabrics Objective Measurement of Fabric Handle. Kawabata Instrument .. FAST System . Fabric Stiffnes: Drape of Fabrics ... Crease Recovery ..19. Tensile Properties... Sampling Method 307 Grab Tests... 309 Bursting Strength 312 Tear Strength 20. Comfort Properties of Fabric a: 31D Air Permeability .. 319 Measurement of air Permeability 320 Water Repellency and Absorption 323 Thermal Insulation.. 329 Thermal Conductivity Flammabilty ...... Flammability Testers . 21. Abrasion Resistance & Pilling . 341 Flat Abrasion Teste - 343 Flex Abrasion Tester . . 344 Inflated Diaphragm Method . 346 Pilling..... . 349 Martindale Abrasion Tester Method . ICI Pilling Box 22. Interpretation and Application of Test Results ........... 357 References 361 List of Tables 377 List of Figures IndexLN * a Lay i Ny 01 Peay stat rn e ia Te root io ~ f - cette atore a - Pr i e, %, se ' fate! tou