instructables

Mechanical 7 Segment Display

by indoorgeek

I am currently in the nal year of electrical engineering and was working on my nal year project model. As a part
of the project, I had modi ed a ceiling fan to work as a generator. I had replaced the original thin gauge winding
with a thicker one to suit the power requirement. But due to lockdown, I was forced to scrap the model and
continue just with the theory part. A lot of enameled copper wire was going to be wasted and so I decided to reuse
it.

As I always do, I started going through projects on the internet. I came across the 'Mechanical 7 Segment Display'
which used servo motors to move the segments. Those are fun to watch but I didn't like the sound they made. So, I
decided to choose another way to move the segments.

In this Instructable, I will be showing you how I made a mechanical 7 segment display using electromagnets to
move the segments. Before starting, I want to let you know that this is not an e cient design. I have used whatever
I had already laying around. I will try to improve it in the future maybe but for now, I am having fun!

Let's get started!

Supplies:

1x Arduino Nano
7x IRF540N N-Channel MOSFET
7x 1N5408 Diode
7x Magnets
7x 10k Resistor
7x 100-ohm Resistor
Perfboard
Enameled copper wire

https://youtu.be/3phLYcJFsy8

Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 1

Step 1: The Plan
The plan is to move the segments back and forth
using electromagnets. The segments will normally sit
ush with the surface of the display. Each segment
will have a small magnet behind them.
The electromagnet is energized such that the magnet
is repelled and hence the segment will be pushed
outward above the surface. When the electromagnet
is de-energized, the magnet gets attracted to the iron
core of the electromagnet and the segment is pulled
Step 2: Making Electromagnets
Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 2
in back to its original position. The movement of the
segment should be within the limits.
The segments will be connected in co m m o n a no de
con guration and controlled using an Arduino in the
same way as the normal LED 7 segment display. The
only di erence is that Arduino cannot supply the
current required by the electromagnets. Hence, the
switching will be done by MOSFETs.
I am using a 24 gauge enameled copper wire which
can carry approximately 2A maximum current. You
can use an online tool to nd out the parameters for
your electromagnet. Again, I made mine without
much thought and calculations. The magnetic eld
strength depends upon three factors viz. curre nt ,
length of wire (or t urns ), and co re material.
The core must a ferromagnetic material i.e a material
that can be magnetized. For example, soft iron, steel,
nickel alloys, etc. I will be using steel screws which I
had or can be easily found. Magnetic eld strength is
magnetic eld strength just enough to push the
magnet along with the segment. You might need to
experiment a little bit here.
I 3D printed a small bobbin onto which the wire will
be wound. The STL les have been attached. You can
even wound it directly on the screw but I found this
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F5D/40X1/KCNDO0NZ/F5D40X1KCNDO0NZ.stl
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Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 3
directly proportional to the current (I) and the
number of turns (N). You can either increase current
or increase the number of turns. Since I was using a
relatively thicker gauge wire than you would normally
use, the size of the electromagnet was getting too
large. To reduce the turns I had to increase the
current. I decided to allow a maximum of 1.5A for
which the resistance of the coil must be
approximately 3.3 ohms (5V/1.5A). I measured the
resistance of 1m wire and then calculated how much
wire I would need to get a total of 3.3 ohms. This
turned out to be approximately 16m. You need
convenient. I used a drill to wind the electromagnet to
speed up the process. Finally, insert the screw and
glue it. Your electromagnet is ready.
Repeat the process 7 times.
View in 3D Download
 https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FTC/XY03/KCNDO0O0/FTCXY03KCNDO0O0.stl
… View in 3D Download

Step 3: Assembling the Display

Download the attached STL les and 3D print them. You might need to use supports for the segment.

Face (x1)
Segment (x7)
Limiter (x14)
Clamp (x7)

The segments might require some sanding depending on your 3D printer. Make sure that the segments move
smoothly in their slots.

Insert the 'limiters' (I couldn't come up with a better name) as shown in the picture. These limit the motion of the
segments within a speci ed range.

Next, glue the magnets in the center of each segment as shown. Make sure that all the magnets are
oriented/facing the same way. This will make things a lot easier later.

The clamps will hold the electromagnets in place. Add some tape around the electromagnet is the t is a bit loose
or use a cable-tie to tighten the grip.

Next, glue the clamp along with the electromagnet over each segment.

Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 4

 View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F44/XP6E/KCOT1LGA/F44XP6EKCOT1LGA.stl
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View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FXR/0EXG/KCOT1LGC/FXR0EXGKCOT1LGC.stl
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View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FMT/0WV9/KCOT1LGB/FMT0WV9KCOT1LGB.stl
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View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F51/V1T5/KCOT1XHG/F51V1T5KCOT1XHG.stl
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Step 4: Circuit and Its Working

Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 5

The circuit diagram has been attached. Make the
connections are per the diagram.
Energize one electromagnet in such a way that it
pushes the segment. Note the polarity of the supply.
Join '+' of all the electromagnets together and
connect them to +5V since it is a 'common anode'
display. Now if we connect the remaining end of each
electromagnet to GND, that particular electromagnet
will be energized. These ends are now connected to
the Drain (D) terminal of each MOSFET (IRF540N). A
positive voltage at the Gate (G) terminal turns ON the
MOSFET which closes the D-S path.
An electromagnet is an inductive load. When it is
operating, a magnetic eld is created around it. But
when it is switched OFF, the magnetic eld collapses
and creates a huge voltage spike which can damage
the MOSFET. To avoid this, an alternative path is
provided for the excess current to ow and die out by
using a f re e w he e ling dio de (1N5408). Normally,
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F7D/JM2W/KCP1WROZ/F7DJM2WKCP1WROZ.pdf
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Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 6
this diode should at least be rated to handle the
normal continuous current.
10k resistor is used as a pull-down resistor to avoid
false triggering of MOSFET.
Important: Total current can reach around 10.5A ( =
1.5 x 7). Make sure you use the appropriate gauge of
wire. Also, make thick solder traces for the GND
connection. I have used 3 strands of solid copper
strand to be extra safe.
All the above components are soldered on a
perfboard and attached on the backside of the case.
The connection to each Gate terminal is brought at
the male header terminals for applying pulses using
any type of control circuit. To turn ON one segment,
apply 5V logic at the male terminals. Here I have used
an Arduino in combination with a shift register to
provide the appropriate pulses to the display.
Download
Step 5: Time for Coding

The sketch le has been attached. Download and ABCDEFG

open it using Arduino IDE. There is nothing special in
the code.
The bytes are stored in an array (digit[]). The bits are
sent serially to a shift register which then 'shifts out'
the bits parallelly. The bits are arranged in the
following manner:
If you want to display number 1, then segments B and
C should be ON while the remaining should be OFF.
So, the byte to be sent to display number 1 is
'01100000'. The last bit should always be 0 since we
have 7 segments and a byte has 8 bits.

Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F1L/D06B/KCP1WZIP/F1LD06BKCP1WZIP.ino
…

Step 6: Enjoy!

Double-check all your connections. Finally, connect
the display to a 5V SMPS which can supply at least
10.5A. Connect the output of the shift register to the
display and upload the code to the Arduino.
I love watching it and hearing the clicking sound of
the segments moving in and out. I know this is not at
all useful but I learned a lot and had fun making it. I
might make it more e cient in the future.
Thank you for sticking to the end. I hope you all love
this project and learned something new today. Let me
know if you make one for yourself. Subscribe to my
YouTube channel for more such projects.

Step 7: Improvements

A single digit is not much of use. At least 4 digits would be required to display anything useful like time, subscriber
counter, etc. As stated earlier, I would like to make a less power-hungry version with some physical modi cations.
Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 7
Improving the design to reduce assembly required by printing as much as I can in one go.
Reduce the size of electromagnets by using thinner gauge wire and more turns.

Mechanical 7 Segment Display: Page 8