Let’s Knit a Cardigan

blog.tincanknits.com/2013/12/24/lets-knit-a-cardigan/

By alexaludeman December 24,

2013

This is it! It’s the final installment of our Simple Collection. If you’ve
been knitting along with us this is your last project before you go forth
and conquer the world of knitting.

If this is your very first garment there are two important things to
consider: gauge and fit. Review our tutorial on gauge to ensure your
sweater comes out to the dimensions you want, and learn about
choosing your size to ensure you get a sweater that fits the way you
want it to.

::: Get Started :::

Download a copy of the Harvest pattern (it’s free!) grab your yarn and needles, and let’s
get down to business. If you have been following along and knitting the other free
Simple Collection designs: Wheat Scarf, Malt Blanket, Oats Cowl, Barley Hat, Maize Mitts,
Rye Socks, and Flax Pullover you will already have learned almost all of the techniques
required to make the Harvest Cardigan. Believe it or not, there aren’t that many complex
techniques required to make a simple sweater!

::: Yoke :::

Using larger needles, CO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14,
16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts provisionally using the
crochet chain provisional cast-on method.

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 Setup row (WS – wrong side): p2, knit to end
Row 1 (RS – right side): knit
Row 2 (WS): p2, knit to end
Work rows 1-2 a total of 39 (46, 49, 52, 49, 49, 49, 59, 57,
62, 59, 60, 58, 58, 64, 66, 70) times; creating the same
number of garter ridges. This is a total of 79 (93, 99, 105,
99, 99, 99, 119, 115, 125, 119, 121, 117, 117, 129, 133,
141) rows worked, including the Setup row. Your final row
is a WS (wrong side) row.
Basically we are creating a strip of garter with a stockinette edge on one side. This will be
the back neck of the sweater.

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Ready to pick up stitches and place markers?

The next portion of the yoke involves picking up stitches along the stockinette edge,
placing markers to indicate the garter panels, and unzipping your provisional cast on to
give you live stitches.

Next row (RS): knit to last 2 sts, PM, k1, m1, k1 (this is the
end of the row), next, turn work 90 degrees, and pick up and
knit 52 (62, 66, 70, 66, 73, 73, 88, 85, 93, 89, 90, 97, 96,
107, 110, 117) sts along the edge of the collar (pick up at a
rate of 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) stitches in
every 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) rows).
When picking up stitches you will not be picking up 1 stitch in every single row, you need
to pick up at the rate indicated instead.

Eg. for the smallest size you will be picking up 2 sts for
every 3 rows. So you will pick up a stitch in each of the first
two rows, then skip the next one. Pick up 2 sts in the next
two rows, skip the next one. etc.
Finally, undo the provisional cast on (details here), put live sts onto LH needle, and work
across them as follows: k1, m1, k1, PM, knit to end.

When unzipping/undoing the provisional cast on I often find I am one stitch short. This is
because the edge stitches sometimes get lost when you undo the provisional cast on.
Not to worry. Simply increase 1 stitch on the next row (you can use a m1 or a kfb) to
make sure you have the same number of stitches in each garter panel and the correct
stitch count overall.

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 Stitches have been picked up and markers indicate the garter panel

Now it’s time to place markers (PM), setting up for the raglan increases.

Setup row (WS): knit to marker, p3, PM, p14 (17, 18, 19,
17, 18, 18, 23, 21, 23, 21, 21, 22, 20, 23, 23, 25) sts, PM,
p24 (28, 30, 32, 32, 37, 37, 42, 43, 47, 47, 48, 53, 56, 61,
64, 67) sts, PM, p14 (17, 18, 19, 17, 18, 18, 23, 21, 23, 21,
21, 22, 20, 23, 23, 25) sts, PM, p3 (this brings you to the
last marker), knit to end.
From now on you will be working paired increases at each of the 4 raglan markers every
2nd row, and increasing at the neckline every 4th row. Always slip your markers as you
come to them.

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As you work you will start to see the raglan lines forming where the markers are.

Raglan close up

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Follow the raglan instructions for your size. The pattern includes the generic instruction
‘m1’ for increasing, but if you like, you can use mirrored increases at the raglan points:
work m1R first, then k1, slip marker, k1, then m1L on the opposite side of the marker.
You can learn more about increases in our tutorial here.

::: Separate Body and Sleeves :::

Now that your yoke is complete you will separate the body and sleeves. The sleeve
stitches are put on waste yarn, stitches are cast on for the underarm, and the rest are
left for the body. Remove raglan markers as you come to them.

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Knit 20 (20, 22, 22, 28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 45, 50,
53, 58, 61) sts (left front), place the next 26 (29, 30, 31, 33,
34, 38, 43, 45, 47, 49, 53, 58, 60, 67, 71, 77) sts on hold on
waste yarn (left sleeve), cast on 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8,
8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts using backward loop method (left
underarm), knit 36 (40, 42, 44, 48, 53, 57, 62, 67, 71, 75,
80, 89, 96, 105, 112, 119) sts (back), place stitches on hold
for right sleeve as at left, CO sts for right underarm as at
left, then knit to end (right front). The sleeves are on hold,
and there are 84 (88, 94, 100, 116, 121, 131, 140, 151, 159,
169, 180, 195, 216, 231, 252, 265) body sts on the needles.
The first and last markers indicating the garter edges remain
in place. Work one WS row: knit to marker, purl to marker,
knit to end.

Sleeves have been separated

7/15
 Sleeve stitches on hold – close up

It’s time for a lot of knitting! The sleeves are on hold, the body will be worked in rows
down to the hem, then the sleeves are each picked up and worked last.
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 ::: Body :::

The body is worked by continuing in pattern as set: garter panels at each side and
stockinette in the middle. You will continue to work increases at the neckline as indicated
for your size.

Then repeat rows 3-4 until body measures 4 (5, 5.5, 6.5, 8,
11, 13, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) inches from
underarm (or 2 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4)
inches short of desired length to hem). Work in garter
stitch (knit all rows) for 2 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4,
4, 4, 4, 4) inches, then bind off.

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The body is complete! Time for the sleeves.

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 ::: Sleeves :::

To work sleeves you will need to first put all the stitches from the waste yarn onto your
double pointed needles. If you don’t know how to knit in the round on double pointed
needles, check out this tutorial. Knit across these stitches. Then you will pick up stitches
from the body of the sweater at the underarm, place a marker as indicated, and you will
be ready to work the sleeves in the round.

Knit all rounds until length indicated has been achieved.

Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

Knit 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5, 5) rounds.
For child sizes: work one more decrease round.
For adult sizes: continue to decrease every 9th (9th, 9th,
9th, 8th, 7th, 7th, 6th, 6th, 6th) round 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 9, 10,
12, 14, 15) more times. [26 (29, 30, 33, 35, 36, 40, 41, 43,
43, 45, 45, 46, 48, 51, 53, 57) sts]
Continue working sleeve as instructed, you already have all the skills required!

Tip: Making 2 the same

The important thing about knitting sleeves is making 2 the same (sounds obvious right?).
So make sure to take notes on the number of rounds you work as you go.

how many rounds to the first decrease?

how many rounds after the last decrease but before the garter cuff?
how many rounds in the garter cuff?

::: Finishing :::

Finishing a sweater can be the most important part. Block your sweater and weave in
your ends. There will be a small hole at the underarm, use your tail to sew that up.

You have put a lot of work into your first sweater so don’t skip blocking, it’s an important
step. Blocking will make your stitches even out and lie flat and generally ‘smooth out’
your work. It’s easy to block a sweater out of proportion if you aren’t careful. Make sure
you have your measuring tape handy and that your chest measurements and length are
as desired.

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The Simple Collection is for Sharing ::: This tutorial is part
of The Simple Collection – our 100% free learn-to-knit series.
Check out the 8 fabulous free patterns sized from baby to
big, and get started making modern seamless knits for the
entire family! And be sure to share this and our other Simple
Collection patterns with your friend, fellow knitters, teachers,
and knit groups. If you appreciate this project, please take
a moment to help us to spread the word by clicking below to
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The Simple Collection free patterns:

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