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The Edible Asian Garden - Rosalind Creasy PDF
The Edible Asian Garden - Rosalind Creasy PDF
The Edible Asian Garden - Rosalind Creasy PDF
Rosalind Creasy
PERIPLUS
First published in 2000 by
PERIPLUS EDITIONS (HK) LTD.,
with editorial offices at 364 Innovation Drive,
North Clarendon, VT 05759 U.S.A. and
61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12 Singapore 534167.
ISBN: 962-593-300-X
Distributed by
First edition
05 04 03 02 01 00
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
PRINTED IN SINGAPORE
contents
The Edible Asian Garden page 1
How to Grow an Asian Garden 4 The Pleasures of a Stirfry Garden 11
Creasy Asian Gardens 6 The Creasy Summer Asian Garden 14
The Creasy Cool-Season Vegetable Garden9 The Cunningham Garden 16
embarrass myself. I practiced by using could have only one type of food for
them to pick up dry macaroni until I the rest of my life, this is what it would
thought I had acquired some skill. For be-not my own native fare, not even
our first dinner in Hong Kong, my French cuisine, but the food of the
starving. To begin the meal, the waiter In fact, although we shopped, visited
placed a bowl of shiny, round Spanish museums, and wandered around the
peanuts in the middle of the table. Ah, "spronged" it against the wall! So waterfront, food in all its forms
food! I glanced around and discovered much for saving face! became our main interest in Hong
that the other diners were eating these Chopsticks aside, we had a wonder Kong. We spent hours selecting restau
nuts with their smooth, tapered chop ful time eating our way through Hong rants from among the Japanese,
sticks. Gamely, I plunged in-and onto Kong. We dined on familiar stir-fries Korean, and Chinese choices, and
the table went my peanut. Discreetly, I made with baby corn and pac choi, more hours choosing our food. We
tried again and again in vain. Finally, I eggplants with garlic sauce, and made numerous visits to the old part of
snared a nut-but squeezed too hard asparagus with shrimp. But we also the city, where herb stores abound and
and, just as the waiter looked our way, tried the unfamiliar-eels, sea cucum produce markets line the sidewalk.
bers, and all sorts of vegetables, mush T here we saw people walking down
Asia. were always fresh and the preparation shoots and unusual mushrooms. And
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
we saw all sorts of fresh greens-! of vegetables and cooking. It became A typical vegetable garden in Japan is plant
ed with onions, chives, and many different
couldn't get over the variety. obvious to me that the main focus of
greens. As in much of Asia, the beds are in
Everywhere I looked were green, leafy Chinese cuisine was on vegetables and straight rows and raised above grade.
vegetables I'd never seen before. Much that the varieties far exceeded my lim-
ably because we looked so puzzled as that the Chinese food I had eaten in
we hovered over the bins), we'd buy all restaurants at home only hinted at the
sorts of unfamiliar fruits and vegeta heart of that cuisine. Because fresh Southeast Asian neighborhoods and
bles and bring them back to our hotel Asian vegetables are the cornerstone of began to frequent Japanese and Thai
to taste and photograph them. After Chinese cooking, because restaurants restaurants to learn about tempura and
laying out a towel to provide a neutral in the United States generally can't curries. I sought out Chinese restau-
background, I'd set down a spoon to obtain them, and, further, because the rants that prepared pea shoots and gai
give the picture scale, lay out the edi American audience is fixated on meat, !on and a Japanese market that fea-
bles, and then photograph them one by what I had come across in the States tured a whole section of Asian pickles
one. Then, with the produce well doc was only a limited sample of Chinese with a tasting bar. As the years went
umented, we'd taste everything and cooking as a whole. by, accumulating information became
make notes. Once home, I began to research much easier as northern California
That long-ago trip to Hong Kong Asian cooking in earnest. I visited the evolved into America's newest cultural
opened my eyes to a whole new world community gardens of nearby melting pot, one brimming with folks
2
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
from the Pacific Rim. Now I had North America with home gardeners styles, that of the Chinese is most
Asian neighbors to share food and gar and cooks interested in Asian vegeta- accessible to Western cooks and uses
den information with, huge new local bles. One gardener in particular, David the fewest unfamiliar techniques.
grocery stores catering to a Japanese Cunningham, who was staff horticul- Before you lies a whole new range
and Chinese clientele, and neighbor turist at the Vermont Bean Seed of vegetables and herbs: Shanghai flat
hood markets devoted to East Indians Company, even grew an Asian demon- cabbages, Chinese chives, Japanese
and Southeast Asians-and mine to stration garden for me to share with mitsuba, and Thai basil. As a gardener
By now I've not only identified all Throughout this book, I give infor- ing on a lifetime of exploration, and it's
the produce I collected in Hong Kong, mation on the vegetables and herbs of none too soon to start!
I've grown and cooked with nearly all Japan, India, Korea, Southeast Asia,
of the vegetables and herbs Asia has to and the Philippines. You will soon see,
and Asian vegetables and food is a vast the vegetables and cooking methods of
Farmer's markets around the country are
subject. I needed many other views. the Chinese, as they cook with the often great places to purchase and learn
Fortunately, I have been able to spend greatest variety of vegetables and the more about Asian vegetables. Here at the
company trial plots, and work all over obtain. Further, of all Oriental cooking eggplants.
3
how to grow
any of the vegetables and niques, and by the late 1970s I was a
I
M herbs used in Asia are famil
aware that they come from Japanese 1980s I visited with Peter Chan, who
ples. When you peruse seed catalogs nent of an intensive style of vegetable
looking for varieties, keep an eye out gardening, which he covered in detail
for sweet, "burpless" cucumbers such in his book Better Vegetable Gardens the
as 'Suyo Long' and 'Orient Express' Chinese Way. Raised in China a11d
'Sweet Dumpling,' 'Red Kuri,' and China for centuries, including the
also breed and grow such familiar veg drainage, supplementing soil with
are unfamiliar to Western cooks and The gardens described in this book,
gardeners and it is on these that I con and many of the gardening techniques
In much of Asia, land for cultiva marily grown in the Chinese manner
tion is scarce and highly revered. methods now accepted by many mod
matter from the soil and then rely on greens in what is called the cut-and
ents for eons. In fact, they are responsi for details.) While not widely practiced
ble for developing some of the tech in Asia, this method fits right in, as it
1960s, sterile, flat soils supplemented Chinese varieties and cooking meth
Peter Chan's garden (opposite) is filled with with chemical fertilizers and broad ods, and I still find them a great place
Asian vegetables like pac choi and Asian
spectrum pesticides were de rigueur. to start for beginners and for gardeners
squash, which in this case, because of cool
Oregon summers, was planted in a tall Trained as an environmentalist and a in cooler climates. But in the last
planter box for extra warmth. horticulturist, I questioned these tech- decade the gardens and cooking of
4
h 0 w t 0 g r o w a n a s i a n g a r d e n
and I now also experiment with Thai a colder climate. In "The Encyclopedia
lemon grass, and cilantro, among oth information on growing all the vegeta
ers. Most of these plants are perennials, bles in the coldest climates as well as in
and while finally becoming more avail the semitropical regions, where some
able in nurseries, as they are native to of the specialties of Southeast Asia will
warm climates they are less hardy; do especially well. For detailed soil
bring them in over the winter. While starting from seeds, transplanting,
they can be a challenge, they are well maintenance, and pest-control infor
5
Creasy I
live in an unusually good climate and tomatoes, but I became inspired to
for growing cool-season (fall, win grow a whole garden of Asian vegeta
ter, and spring) vegetables, but it is bles over a twelve-month period, all
as1an
I
only so-so for warm-season ones. My done specifically for this book.
garden is in USDA Zone 9, about To give the gardens the feel of Asia,
gardens
twenty-five miles from the Pacific I used bamboo for fencing and trellises
Ocean-even less from the San and selected rice straw for the paths.
Francisco Bay. The marine influence The plants were grown in straight
sink into the low twenties, with day gardens, and the beds were raised and
mer, often the fog doesn't burn off moved my decades-old Japanese maple
until midmorning, daytime tempera into the garden for a focal point, and
most nights are in the high fifties. The ceramist, provided some of her Asian
moderate winter temperatures are per style pottery for decorative touches
fect for peas, carrots, root vegetables, here and there. The process was great
greens, and all members of the cabbage fun and it entirely transformed my
yard-long beans, and some semitropi course I should. After twenty years of
with hundreds of Asian varieties of the beds, planting cover crops, and
6
c r e a sy a s a n ga rde n s
7
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
8
c r e a sy a s i a n ga rde n s
to 23°F. Now that's real cold for us the pac choi were played out and the enjoyed the daikon pickles made with
Californians and the fava beans burned bunching onions were gone by mid carrots as well. Helen also showed me
back to the ground and some of the March. Baby turnips, different greens, how to cook fava beans in the Chinese
half-grown pea plants were so weak and new onions were planted to fill in manner by stir-frying them with garlic
ened we took them out. The cold the beds before the summer crops and letting visitors peel their own beans
weather continued into April (March could be planted. as a snack, making them easy to pre
was the coldest on record, with few Stir-fries with gai ion, snow peas, pare. The shungiku greens were lovely
days climbing out of the forties) and and carrots, and dumpling soups with made with a sesame dressing and their
the whole garden was almost a month pac choi and mustards were favorite flowers created a smoky, mild tea. The
behind. But it's amazing how resilient dishes in my house. I had never made burdock was great in a beef roll; I plan
cool-season plants are. The fava beans them with pea shoots or with gai ion to grow it again next year to explore
completely recovered and, in fact, pro before, and they are great. New to me more recipes that feature it. In all, the
duced six or seven stalks instead of the were the daikons, shungiku greens, and garden expanded my Asian repertoire.
usual three; by early March, the mus burdock. As I don't especially enjoy Next winter, I am sure to plant more
tards, carrots, onions, daikons, and radishes, I was pleasantly surprised to daikons and fava beans. This garden
many greens had revived from their experience their mild, almost sweet almost made winter so great I will look
sad-looking state and were producing taste in a pork soup my neighbor, Helen forward to the cool temperatures. Well,
beautifully. Most of the mustards and Chang, taught me to make, and I maybe that's an overstatement.
Another Creasy cool-season Asian gardenis shown opposite, above. In November, the beds in my
USDA Zone 9 garden are filled with seedlings of mustards, daikons, pac chois, and Japanese car
rots ready for thinning. A few months later (opposite, below), the beds are ready for harvesting.
The cool-season garden in May is pictured on this page. The lava beans on the left are starting to
produce, the snow peas and spinach are in full production, the mizuna is in full bloom and
attracting beneficial insects by the drove; and a second planting of greens is ready for harvest.
9
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
10
c r e a sy a s a n ga rde n s
The Pleasures of a Many years later, after having Chinese cabbages, however; mine
Stir-fry Garden moved to California, the impetus for always become infested with army
n the early 1960s, if you were inter creating a specific stir-fry garden was worms and root maggots.
I ested in cooking, Cambridge, set in motion. I shared a small, sunny We started seeds of broccoli and pac
Massachusetts was a great place to be. part of my garden with a young neigh choi in August in a flat and direct
Two of this country's doyennes of cui bor, Sandra Chang. As fall approached, seeded the peas in the garden in
sine held court there: Julia Child and it occurred to us, as her mother, Helen, September. My garden beds are rich
Joyce Chen. Both were filming televi and I used much of my harvest for stir with organic matter, so all we added
sion shows, and Joyce, author of The frying, and so many Asian vegetables was blood meal before planting. We
Joyce Chen Cook Book, was teaching grow best in cool weather, that a garden had extra seeds of many of the greens,
Chinese cooking classes at her restau of all stir-fry vegetables would be fun. so we planted them in containers and
rant. Living there, I caught the bug Together we chose 'Joi Choi,' a full grew them on my back retaining wall
and I learned everything-from fold size, vigorous pac choi; 'Dwarf Gray' to see how well they would do. (They
ing wontons to making bearnaise snow peas and 'Sugar Snap' peas; grew very well-we fertilized them
sauce. From Joyce, I learned one of the spinach; tatsoi and 'Mei Qing' dwarf with fish emulsion every four weeks.)
most valuable cooking skills you can pac choi; onions; carrots; cilantro; The Shepherd stir-fry mix we planted
became especially pertinent years later, fry mix from Shepherd's Garden Seeds
when I became a demon vegetable gar containing many different mustards A close up (opposite) of one of the cool-sea
and pac choi. (Winters here seldom go son beds with gobo and Shanghai pac choi to
dener. Vegetables are the stars of most
the left of the bird bath and mustard greens
stir-fries. As a bonus, the recipes are below 28°F; gardeners in cold winter
and cilantro on the right. A cut-and-come
easily varied; one tablespoon of peas or areas would do best to plant these veg again bed of stir-fry greens (below) is almost
11
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
season gardens.
12
c re a sy a s i a n ga rde n s
13
t h e e d i b I e a s i a n ga rde n
above 55'F.
my eggplants started to show signs of lost, by September the baby corn was The squash themselves were rich and
fusarium wilt (leaves randomly turning ready-delicious-the hot peppers sweet.
brown and the stems showing brown were in full production-spicy-and All in all, the garden was a success
rings inside when cut.) They were in the cucumbers-over productive-and but more stressful than most with all
full production and it was painful but we were giving them away to all the the cold weather. When I plant these
one by one we needed to pull them out. neighbors. The 'Siam Queen' basil, hot-weather-loving vegetables again, I
The yard-long beans, malabar spinach, bunching onions, amaranth, and the will start them under plastic hoops so
and bitter melons, which all need hot shisho all did well. And the winter they get more heat and I'll plant my
weather, were still only three feet tall squash 'Autumn Cup' was extremely eggplants in containers. As always, the
and never did produce. But all was not productive and ran all over the garden. gardening adventure continues.
14
c r e a sy a s i a n ga rde n s
Express,' 'Suhyo'
Yard-long beans: 'Red Seeded,'
Tong'
Winter squash: 'Autumn Cup'
15
n t e r v e w
avid Cunningham lives in Vermont on a manifest. The soil was beautiful-crumbly and
that he was clearly destined to go into horticulture. been clay based but that in the early 1950s it started
We sat down to plan the Asian garden together as receiving care as a vegetable garden. In winter, the
soon as I arrived. Though I didn't pay much atten area is planted with winter rye, which in spring is
tion to the information at the time, David men grazed by sheep, and over the years the soil has
tioned that his mother was a wolf preservation been amended with mulches and compost. A few
ist-and that the garden was encircled by a wolf years earlier, David had incorporated twenty-five
yard, then surrounded by a field of sheep. bales of peat moss into the plot. Always careful
I returned in midsummer to see the garden, and about keeping the soil healthy, the Cunninghams
at that time the wolves were much more in evi have kept planks on the paths to avoid packing
dence. In fact, to visit the garden we had to down the soil because they plan to use it for beds
exchange places with them; the two wolves went in the future.
into the house while we went to the garden. The overall vegetable garden is about thirty by
Though the idea of being in close proximity to forty feet in size, and David had planted a little
abundantly 'Mammoth
16
Melting,' and 'Oregon tender and uniform with
describe the six varieties of David Cunningham harvests cabbage from his
'Taisai' plus shungiku
rows. 'Pac Choy' has white stems, an open form, I asked David about pest problems, and he told
and doesn't make heads. 'Tyfon,' a cross between me he had had flea beetles on some of the daikon
Chinese cabbage and turnips, has a mild mustard plants and greens and an occasional problem with
like flavor that, according to David, is good in sal moles. He remarked that at one time the family
ads. 'Spring A-1' is a cabbage with a medium-tight had had problems with occasional rabbits, deer,
head and 'WR 90' an upright cabbage with a very and woodchucks and a serious struggle with rac
tight head. 'Winter Queen' is a cabbage good for coons whenever corn was growing. "But," he
fall harvest, and 'Tat Tsai' is a dark green non added, in what I considered a masterful under
heading plant with spoon-shaped leaves growing statement, "since the wolves have been here, things
In the next rows, David had planted the I left this Vermont pastoral scene with my con
Japanese herb mitsuba, an aromatic parsleylike cern about the adaptability of at least some Asian
herb, and 'Green Lance,' a Chinese type of broccoli plants put to rest. Many of these wonderful vegeta
that David likes using in stir-fries. The head of bles could be well adapted to a non-Asian kitchen,
this broccoli is open and the plant's stem is mainly and David was obviously enjoying both growing
what is eaten. He had also planted two types of and cooking with them. In fact, as far as I was
mustard: 'Red Giant,' a striking, somewhat spicy concerned, a fair number of these vegetables had
vegetable, and 'Savanna' mustard spinach, a mild passed the true cooking gardener's test, as David
flavored green. The variety of daikon in the gar was interested enough to try even more varieties
den was 'April Cross.' David described it as very the next season.
17
the en eye oped a
of asian
vegetab es
mates, from northern China to etable is listed under its most common
herbs are an extremely varied lot. For Latin name, and the Asian name(s),
trated here on the vegetables and herbs spelling of Chinese names there is great
Asia. The majority of species covered English words are transliterated from
Asian, but I certainly could not discuss Shanghai flat cabbage, and an ama diversity of spellings approximating the
Asia without mentioning vegetable ranth called Chinese spinach. To enjoy original sounds. Pac choi, for example,
favorites from India, Korea, and the these vegetables and herbs, they usually might also be spelled pak choy, bok choy,
Philippines. need to grow their own. bok choi, and baak choi. I have chosen to
Japanese cooks long for mitsuba and Owing to space limitations, numer use the North American spellings.
green daikon. Thai gardeners, to have ous vegetables such as celtuce, taro, and A number of seed companies
a taste of home, must cultivate their cucuzzi (a type of squash) are not cov carry Asian varieties of vegetables
own coriander for its roots. Chinese ered here but are well worth exploring, and herbs; these are listed on page
cooks seek out blanched Asian chives, as are other seasonings such as turmer 102. The largest offerings are
which are not reliably available com Enterprises and Kitazawa Seed
An Asian harvest includes: 'Japanese Giant
flowers, and snow and 'Sugar Snap' peas. The format of the entries calls for a Asian vegetables.
19
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
'Merah' amaranth
(A. gangeticus, A. mangostanus) a cut-and-come-again crop, harvested 'Puteh': 80 days, mild, light green
Hindi: chaulai; Mandarin: xian cai; when only a few inches tall (see "T he leaves
Cantonese: yin choz�· Japanese: hi-yu-na Pleasures of a Stir-fry Garden" for White Leaf Amaranth: light green
information on page 11) or thin the leaves; dwarf plants popular in
20
a m a r a nth b a m b o o
BAMBOO how to contain running bamboo. The bamboo litter sometimes prevents
clumping type stays confined, sending water from penetrating the root area
Bambusa spp. (clumping up only basal stems. during rain. Thin out three-year-old
bamboo) and Phyllostachys canes and use them for trellises, stak
spp . (running bamboo) ing, and fencing. Bamboo has no major
How to grow: Bamboos are peren
pests or diseases. To prevent bamboo
Chinese: mo sun (spring shoots),jook nial grasses. Most are semihardy, but a
itself from becoming a pest, make sure
sun (summer shoots), doeng sun (win few are hardy in the 0°F range. All
the roots of the running types are con
ter shoots); Japanese: takenoko; species prefer well-drained, rich loam
tained within a concrete or metal bar
Indonesian: rebung; Malaysian: rebung; with a high organic content. In hot
rier at least 2 feet deep, or plant it in
Tagalog: labong; T hai: normaz�· summer areas, bamboo needs some
containers.
Vietnamese: mang shade, in cool coastal areas, full sun.
New shoots of the clumping bam
During the first few years, fertilize
boos usually appear in summer or fall,
BAMBOO IS ONE OF THE MOST with a balanced organic fertilizer in
the running types in spring. Harvest
useful and beloved plants in Asia. The spring and midsummer. Thereafter,
the large shoots just as they emerge by
young shoots are cooked and included the dropped leaves and a yearly appli
freeing them from soil and, with a
in many dishes. The familiar canned cation usually suffice. Most bamboos
sturdy, sharp knife, cut off the top 6 to
product is tinny tasting and flaccid are drought tolerant but produce the
8 inches. (If you make 6-inch mounds
when compared to fresh shoots. tenderest shoots when watered well.
of soil around the base of the plant
For the gardener, there are two Newly established plants must not be
before the shoots emerge, they will be
types of bamboo: clumping and run- allowed to dry out. To protect new
ning. Running bamboo does run-it can shoots in winter, mulch well or, if bam-
even come up through asphalt. See the boo is in a container, bring it into a Grove of giant bamboo (below left), and narrow bam
following growing instructions for well-lit room. Check occasionally, as boo shoots, ready for harvest (below right)
21
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
Upper Bank Nurseries and Bamboo outer layer between each joint, one
Sourcery offer many types, including joint at a time. Slice the shoots in rings
below. Bamboos are often available If the shoots are sweet (which is the
Bambusa beecheyana (Beecheyana tough and have a bitter taste that must
USDA Zone 9; graceful form 10 minutes and drain the shoots when
Bambusa glaucescens (Hedge Bamboo): you are done parboiling. Tast the
clumping type; 20 feet tall; 1 I/2 shoots and, if they are still bitter, repeat
inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 8 the process. After parboiling, the slices
Phyllostachys aurea (Golden Bamboo): can be used in any recipe calling for
30 feet tall; stems 2 lh inches wide; tender. The most popular use of bam-
1
hardy to USDA Zone 8; considered boo is in stir-fried dishes. Bamboo
P. nuda: running type; 35 feet tall; China, where they are used in soups,
USDA Zone 5, among the hardiest dishes, meat and vegetable stir-fries,
Giant bamboo shoots, peeled (above), and how
to cut the small-diameter shoots (below)
types and, often, with mushrooms or pick
P. heterocycla pubescens (P. edulis) led mustard (see recipe, page 65). For
(Moso ): running type; 50 feet tall; example, bamboo is used in gai ion
easier to harvest and the shoots will be
stems 6 inches wide; hardy to with barbecued pork (see recipe, page
longer.) The more slender species, gen
USDA Zone 7 72), spring rolls with Chinese chives
erally referred to as summer bamboos,
and shredded pork, and Thai beef
produce shoots 1-2 inches wide. These
How to prepare: For the large, thick with bamboo shoots. In Japan, fresh
can be allowed to grow to a height of
bamboo shoots, cut a ring around the bamboo shoots are occasionally grilled
12 inches before being harvested at
outside of the bottom of the shoot with on skewers and glazed with soy sauce
ground level. In all cases, do not har
a knife and peel the first outer layer to or miso, or used in braised vegetable
vest all the shoots; the plants need to
expose the white flesh; repeat this pro- dishes. Of course, they can be used in
renew themselves.
cedure for a dozen or so layers until all any recipe calling for canned shoots.
22
ba m b o o ba s i I s
BASILS
THAI BASIL
Ocimum basilicum
Thai: bai horapa; Vietnamese: rau que
LEMON BASIL
0. citriodorum
Thai: bai manglak
HOLY BASIL
0. sanctum
Hindi: tulsi; Thai: bai gaprow
How to grow: Basils are annuals from sowing by picking or cutting. and mixed with coconut milk to make
that glory in hot weather and wither in Keep the flower heads continually cut a dessert. Soaked in drinks, these seeds
the frost. Gardeners in cool-summer back or the plant will go to seed. become slippery, yet crunchy. In
areas struggle to keep them going. Vietnam and Thailand, lemon and
Choose a well-drained area of the gar- Varieties Thai basils are combined on a platter
den in full sun or light shade, and with Seeds of Thai, lemon, and holy basil with fresh mints, Vietnamese corian
fertile organic soil. can be purchased from the herb cata- der or cilantro, and lettuce to put in
You can start basil seeds inside a logs listed in Resources. 'Siam Queen' spring rolls, which are served with a
month before planting them out, or is a new variety of Thai basil that is spicy dip (see recipe, page 78.)
purchase them as transplants from spe- compact and tasty. Holy basil is almost alway s used
cialty nurseries in the spring. Basil put in noodle dishes paired with chicken
out in the garden before the weather is How to prepare: Thai basil is excel or shellfish. Use this basil according to
warm suffers badly. Space seedlings 1 lent in Southeast Asian curries of veg taste, for its flavor intensifies in
foot apart. Keep the plants fairly moist etables, chicken, and game (see recipe, cooking.
23
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s a n v egetable s
BEANS
ADZUKI (RED BEAN)
Vigna angularis
Mandarin: hong xiao dou, chi dou;
Japanese: azuki
A DZUKI BEANS ARE POPULAR in A layout of green mung, white soy, and red adzuki beans.
4 inches, contain reddish seeds; the seedlings to 4 inches apart. (Wider Varieties
flowers are rose colored. Mung beans spacing is needed for soybeans in
Mung and Adzuki Varieties
have purplish yellow flowers, hairy southern areas.) Once established,
Mung and adzuki beans are usually not
pods that grow to about 4 inches, and water deeply and infrequently. If the
available as named varieties. Vermont
green seeds. Both are bushy plants that plants look pale at midseason, fertilize
Bean Seed Company and Evergreen Y.
reach about 3 feet tall. Soybeans are a with fish emulsion.
H. Enterprises carry them.
powerhouse of nutrition and the major The Mexican bean beetle can be a
Adzuki: 60 days pods, 90 days mature
source of protein for many Asians. The pest in certain areas. Phytophthora can
seeds; high yields; pods contain 7-10
white- and black-seeded ones are gen be a problem for soybeans, especially in
beans
erally used as dry beans, the green overly moist soil.
Mung: 90 days mature; pods contain
seeded ones for fresh eating. Soybean You can eat the immature pods of
7-9 beans; use for plants or sprout
plants have fuzzy leaves, stems, and both adzuki and mung beans or let
ing if not treated with fungicides
pods and grow to about 2 feet. The them mature and use the beans fresh
tiny flowers are white or lilac. shelled or dried. Harvest soybeans for Soybean Varieties
fresh shelling when the pods are Johnny's Select Seeds, Evergreen Y. H.
How to grow: Soy, adzuki, and plump but still green or let them dry Enterprises, and Kitazawa Seed
mung beans are all annuals, grown before harvesting. If letting the beans Company carry a few varieties.
much as you would regular bush dry on the plant, harvest after the plant 'Butterbeans': 90 days, fresh; green
beans. Plant after all danger of frost is turns brown. Pull up the whole plant beans, buttery flavor; high yields,
past and the soil has warmed to at least and hang to dry completely in a warm, good fresh
60°F. Plant in full sun in a well dry place. Shell the beans and store 'Envy': 75 days, fresh; very early, short
drained garden loam. Sow seeds 1 inch them in airtight containers in a cool, season favorite; green beans good
24
b e a n s
cold soils.
string. Soak the bean seeds in water overnight and drain them the next
morning. Put the jar in a cool, dark place, like a closet, to sprout. Rinse the
seeds with cold water 2 to 3 times a day to cool the growing sprouts and
provide moisture (more often in warm weather). Drain them well each
time. Repeat the process for 4 or 5 days or until the seeds have sprouted
and are about 1 1/z inches long. Once the sprouts are ready, rinse them well
to remove most of the hulls and refrigerate them. The sprouts deteriorate
quickly and are best used within a day. Your mung and soy sprouts will be
curlier and a little smaller than those grown commercially, but they taste
the same. One word of caution: Soybean sprouts need to be cooked before
use is particularly prevalent in recipe, page 82). In Japan, the beans are
Soy, Verde: 98 days; not for northern Cantonese dishes, where they are stir sometimes shelled and added raw to
climates; very nutty flavor; 3-foot fried or used in soups. In Korea, the rice before it is cooked (see recipe, page
bushes with pea-sized green beans sprouts are used for salads (see recipe, 66).
page 78), and in a stew with pork. Adzuki are widely used in Asia for
How to prepare: Green soybeans (Caution: Soy sprouts are not edible in soups, but especially in desserts, and in
can be cooked in numerous ways when their raw state and are always eaten a sweet paste for dumplings. The
fresh or allowed to mature and used as cooked.) The Japanese enjoy the fresh young pods are eaten like snow peas.
dry beans. Add raw fresh beans to raw green soybeans in a traditional fall Mung bean sprouts are one of the
rice and cook them together, as they snack (edamame) consumed with beer. most widely used vegetables in stir
cook up at the same rate. The beans, pod and all (sometimes still fries in general, in various classic Asian
The great majority of white soy on the stalk), are boiled in salted water stir-fries with pork, and in sweet-and
beans in Asia are made into soy prod- and drained; then snackers shell their sour soup.
25
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
BEANS, FAVA
(BROAD BEANS)
Viciafaba
Chinese: tsaam dou; Hindi: bakla;
Japanese: sora mame
BEANS, YARD-LONG
(AS PARAG U S BEAN ;
CHINESE PEA)
Vigna unguiculata spp.
Sesquipedalis
Cantonese: cheung kong tau; Mandarin:
chang dou; Japanese: sasage
good for cool climates. On the other them with sprays of water. Slugs can
hand, yard-long beans and pigeon peas destroy seedling beds. For young, ten
are best grown in warm climates. der fava beans whose skins do not need
Yard-long beans produce very long, to be removed, harvest them when
thin pods. These vining plants, which they first start to fill out the pods.
are related to black-eyed peas, grow to Alternately, let the fava beans mature
10 feet. The young pods, seeds, and and use them fresh or dried.
leaves are edible. The pod and foliage Yard-long beans are hot-weather
flavor is mild and sweet. There are annuals that produce poorly in cool
three types of yard-long beans: the dark, summer areas. Plant them in full sun
thin pods with black seeds; the larger, at least 2 weeks after your last expected
light green one with spongy pods and frost, sowing the seeds 1 inch deep and
red seeds; and a white-seeded type. fava beans in the fall. They need about 4 inches apart. Thin the seedlings to 8
Pigeon peas are shrubby perennials 90 days of cool weather and tolerate inches. Make successive plantings 3
from Asia and Africa that are popular repeated frosts. In cold-winter areas, weeks apart. Yard-long beans need
in east Indian cuisine. The quick plant favas when you plant peas. To trellising and produce best if kept fairly
growing plants can be 9 feet tall and 6 plant, prepare the soil well and plant moist. Fertilize sparingly-too much
feet wide. seeds 2 inches deep and about 3 inches nitrogen results in few beans. Pest and
apart. The plants grow quickly to 5 disease problems are minimal. Harvest
How to grow: In areas where win feet in height. Support the tall plants when pods reach 12 to 18 inches,
ters don't dip below the teens, plant with stakes and strings surrounding before the seeds fill out the pods.
26
b e a n s
Pigeon peas are tender tropical How to prepare: Young fava beans
shrubs that need a very long, warm have a special sweetness. These tasty
growing season. They tolerate poor beans are shelled when the seeds start
soils. Plant 1/2 inch deep and 5 feet to fill out the pods. Then the bean
apart. The plants may need support. In skins must be peeled before prepara
years if there are no freezes. Harvest love. In northern China, the beans are
pods while young or let them mature paired with ham or sprouted and
and harvest the seeds for drying. cooked. In parts of China and Japan,
costs.
Yard-Long Beans
Yard-long beans are actually tastiest
Redwood City Seed and Evergreen Y.
when 12-18 inches long. In a popular
H. Enterprises both carry yard-long
Szechwan dish called dry-fried beans,
beans.
the red-seeded yard-long beans are
Red Seeded: 75 days; heirloom; light
deep-fried, drained, and then put in a
green pods; maroon brown seeds;
wok and stir-fried with spicy season
trouble-free variety
ings. The dark green variety is best in
Black Seeded: the most widely grown
a simple stir-fry with a bit of ginger.
yard-long; dark green pods
Try them in rolls of marinated beef or
Black Stripe Seed: new variety from
pork (see recipe, page 81) or add them
Taiwan; high yields; pods are crisp
to soups. These beans are pencil-thin
'Kaohsiung': dark green, thick, meaty
and a bit like French haricots verts;
pods and black seeds
they can be used in place of string
'Sabah Snake': 80 days; very long pods;
beans in most recipes.
pods are light green and wrinkled;
The young pods of pigeon peas are
white seeds; heirloom; popular in
eaten cooked, or the fresh or dried seed
Malaysia
is cooked and eaten, often with rice. In
Yard-long beans (above), pigeon peas (below)
the Philippines, pigeon peas are often
Pigeon Peas
used in soups (see recipe, page 74.)
ECHO and The Banana Tree carry
27
e n cyclop e dia o I a s ia n v egetable s
t h e
Bitter melon plants are handsome smooth skin; spindle shaped; more
I
vines that bear yellow flowers and may bitter and flavorful than most;
climb more than 12 feet. The unique Cantonese use this for stuffing
fruits may be light or dark green, or 'Karela': 55 days; dark green, to 7 l/2
white when young; they mature to red inches long; very productive; from
Company
grown as annuals. They need long, fruits, green skin and white flesh;
seeds for 24 hours before planting to 'Thailand': small fruits with blistered,
help germination. Start bitter melons deep green skin; productiV� e; popu
full sun and a fertile, organic soil. How to prepare: In much of Asia,
Space or thin plants to 2 feet apart. Put bitter melon is considered to have cool
a trellis in place for them to grow on ing or medicinal properties, and the
when you plant them. Bitter melons young tendrils are considered a delicacy
apply fish emulsion. If the plants are the last minute into simple egg dishes.
Bitter melon not setting fruit, you need to hand pol The tendrils have some bitterness but
linate the flowers. Slugs and snails can possess a distinctive, quite pleasant
be a problem for young plants. vegetable taste. The taste of the fruits
ELON
BITTER M Harvest bitter melons while they varies in flavor and bitterness depend
GOURD; are young and still firm, in the white ing on maturity. Most fruits begin deep
(BITTER
UCUMBER; or green stage. They grow more bitter green and mild and grow increasingly
BITTER C
EAR) as they mature. Harvest regularly and yellow and bitter with age. Try young
BALSAM P
do not let them ripen on the vine; they melons in soups and mature ones in
ntza
Momordica chara
ndarin: k u gwa; will continue to ripen after harvesting. stir-fries (see the recipe on page 70) or
Ca ntonese: fiu kUJa. Ma •
Harvest leaves and shoots for cooking stuffed with meat. In China, bitter
II' di·. karela
Japanese: mga un; ill
.
·
.
. rather than by variety names. Before cooking with bitter melon, to
lippmes, the
. ted In the Phi
a ppreoa ·
.
elon IS sometnnes 'High Moon': 90 days; pale green to remove much of the water and some of
.
a b.
Jtt er m
juice from
ustom chit white; to 10 inches long. Available the bitterness, slice, salt, and then
1 t o acc
. , l'ps
rubbed on b abJes
e im mature from Territorial Seed Company squeeze the juice out.
. er tast es. Th
dren to b1tt
are edible,
too. 'Hong Kong': dark green, rather
leaves and shoots
28
b t t e r m e I o n b u n c h n g o nio n s
BUNCHING
ONIONS
(GREEN ONIONS,
SCALLIONS, MULTI
PLIER ONIONS,
WELSH ONIONS)
Allium fistulosum
Cantonese: ts'ungfa; Mandarin: cong
(onion), quing cong; Japanese: negi
onions from seed in the spring for days; very popular; grows in clus are used as garnishes or added to rice,
summer use or in the fall to overwin ters; most cold hardy of the bunch- noodle, and fish dishes as well as soups
ter. Sow l/4 inch apart and lh inch mg omons and stir-fries. Historically, the nomadic
deep. Keep weeded. Give consistent 'Kujo' ('Kujo Green Multistalk'): a tribes of Mongolia gathered the wild
moisture. The clustering types should multiplier onion; grows in clusters green onions that grew profusely in
reach a good size the first year, with of 3 or 4 stalks; tender white stalks that region. They then quickly fried
some division at the base; they can be are about 10 inches long; light green thin strips of beef and added handfuls
divided the second summer. To pro leaves to 18 inches of the onions at the last minute, the
duce whiter stalks, mound the soil to 'Ishikura No.2': a popular single object being to cook the green onions
blanch the stems. The long, single stalked variety; very uniform lightly while still keeping the life in
stalked types are particularly well 'White Lisbon': 60 days; an Allium cepa them. In Japanese cooking, these
suited for blanching and are sometimes developed for use as a scallion; ten onion-family vegetables are widely
called Chinese leeks. Bunching onions der green tops and long white used for pickling, in soups and gar
are fairly resistant to pests and disease. stems; does well in a variety of soils nishes, and are popular in sukiyaki.
29
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
expose the majority of the root before How to grow: Plant carrots in early
you pull it out; otherwise the root spring, as soon as your soil has
'Takinogawa': 120 days; the standard soils need stubby varieties. Sow seeds
Japanese variety; has well-formed roots 1h inch apart in rows or wide beds and
with a mild, bittersweet flavor keep the seed bed evenly moist. Thin
How to prepare: The primary edi try, once sprouted, carrots are easy to
Burdock
ble part of burdock is the root, but grow. When the plants are about 3
young, tender shoots are sometimes inches tall, mulch with compost and
BURDOCK used too. The roots are sometimes side dress with fish emulsion.
used in stir-fries and soups in China. Once the seedlings are up, protect
Arctium lappa
In Japan, they are pickled or cooked in them from snails and slugs. In the
Cantonese: ngao pong; Mandarin: niu
soups, tempura, and stir-fries with upper Midwest, the carrot rust fly
pang; Japanese: gobo
slivered carrots. Try them rolled in maggot tunnels its way through car
thin strips of beef or pork mixed with rots. Floating row covers and crop
THIS PLANT'S ROOTS, WHICH can other vegetables (see recipe, page 81). rotation help. Alternaria blight and
grow to 4 feet long and 1 inch wide, Roots are harvested and scraped cercospora blight are possible diseases.
and its young shoots are prized in before cooking; stronger-tasting roots Carrot varieties are ready for har
Japan. The roots are usually brown are thinly sliced and soaked in water vesting when they are at least lh inch
skinned with white flesh. The plant for several hours to remove bitterness. across and start to color. The optimal
grows to about 3 feet tall. Keep cut roots in water to prevent time to harvest carrots is within a
How to grow: Burdock is a biennial warm weather. Harvest when the soil
30
b u rdo ck c a r rots
cold climates, mulch plants well with 1 'Kuroda': 90 days; heat tolerant; tender to kim chee and, traditionally, daikon
foot of dry straw and cover with plas- and sweet; 6 to 8 inches long; stores pickles (see recipe, page 63). In much
tic that's weighted down with some- well of Southeast Asia, carrots are carved
thing heavy. 'Tokita's Scarlet': 100 days; very sweet; and used for a garnish.
Varieties Japanese
'Dragon': 75 days; red to purplish exte including many curries, and they are
rior, yellow to orange interior; made into pickles and sweetmeats. The
sweet, spicy flavor.; the purplish red varieties are more favored in China
available from Garden City the Chinese New Year. Grated carrots
inches long, sweet Japanese carrot; salad dressing that includes lemon
best harvested young juice and fish sauce. Koreans add them
Japanese carrots
31
t h e e n cyclop e dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
cabbage-family problems.
CHINESE CHINESE
Varieties
BROCCOLI 'Blue Star': popular in U.S. CABBAGE
( C H I N E S E KA L E ) Chinatowns; the large stems and
Brassica rapa var. pekinensis
flower buds are crisp and tender
Brassica oleracea var.
Mandarin: da bai cai; Cantonese: bok
'Green Delight': slightly smaller than choi; Japanese: nappa
alboglabra
'Blue Star'; grows well in mild or
Cantonese: kaai laan tsoi;
warm climates
Mandarin: gai lan CHINESE CABBAGES HAVE milder
'Green Lance': 50 days; disease resis
flavor and tenderer leaves than their
tant
cousins, the Western cabbages (which
CONSIDERED BY MANY TO BE one
are sometimes grown in the Orient).
of the choicest cabbage-family greens, How to prepare: To prepare the
There are three major types of Chinese
Chinese broccoli, also sold as gai Ion, stalks for cooking, first peel the stems
cabbages: one is barrel-shaped, light
grows rapidly to 18 inches and has blue as you would asparagus, removing any
green, and often referred to as napa
green leaves, thick stems, and white tough skin. Large leaves are tough
cabbage; another is tall and cylindrical,
flowers. While not really a broccoli (it's also; remove these, leaving succulent
with lacy Savoy-type leaves, sometimes
a kale), the plant is allowed to form stems with a small flowering top. Cut
referred to as Michihili cabbage; the
buds before it's eaten, so cooks treat it these into pieces about 2 to 3 inches
third is an attractive, loose-headed cab
as a broccoli. long, ready for cooking. While Chinese
bage.
broccoli is enjoyed in soups with noo
How to grow: Chinese broccoli is dles, mushrooms, and pork, squid, or How to grow: Chinese cabbages can
easier to grow than most of the cab chicken, stir-frying is the most popular be fussy. They don't transplant well
bage family. Sow seed outside in full way to prepare it. Try it with barbe and tend to bolt if disturbed or if sub
sun in spring and again in late sum cued pork (see recipe, page 72). jected to cold temperatures while
mer. In cool summer areas, it will pro- young. Growing them for fall harvest
32
chin e s e br o c c oli c h n e s e c a b b a g e
33
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s a n v egetable s
'Chinese Golden' celery tinue to form. Alternately, harvest the herb, for all parts of the plant are used.
whole head by cutting the plant off at T he common names are rather confus
'Chinese Golden': yellowish green parsley. No matter what you call it, this
CHINESE CELERY IS A CLOSE rela- stems and leaves; small leaves; resis- herb is among the most popular on the
tive of the celery commonly enjoyed in tant to cold temperatures planet. Its aroma and rather soapy taste
the West. It has thin, hollow stems and 'Green Queen': deep green stems and cause people to either relish it or dis
is a smaller, hardier plant than the leaves; tender and flavorful like it intensely.
How to prepare: Chinese celery is a in Asian cuisines: rau ram (most often
How to grow: Like its Western rel staple in many Asian soups and stews. known in the nursery trade by this
ative, Chinese celery is a biennial It is stronger in flavor than American name, but also called Vietnamese
grown as a cool-season annual. Chinese celery types and is used in lesser coriander), and culantro, also known
celery grows best as a spring or fall amounts. Both stems and leaves keep in Asian markets as saw-leaf herb,
crop. It needs full sun (or partial shade their flavor well when dried. which perfectly describes the shape of
in hot areas) and a highly organic, fer- its long, incised leaves.
34
chin e s e ce I e r y c o ria n de r
How to grow: The standard corian When possible, start coriander from
annual herb. It bolts to seed readily planting poorly. Plant seeds I/4 inch
when the days start to lengthen and in deep in rich, light soil and in full sun.
planted in the fall. In cold-winter keep moist. The varieties most com
areas, the seeds sprout the next spring monly available in nurseries, while
after the ground thaws, and in mild adequate, are bred to quickly bolt and
winter areas, the plants grow lush and produce seeds for the world seed trade.
tall. (Coriander tolerates light frosts.) If you choose varieties bred for leaf
are more successful than late. One Standing' and 'Slo-Bolt,' available
guaranteed way to grow under these from mail-order seed companies, you'll
conditions is to treat the plant as a cut harvest leaves for a longer time.
and-come-again crop; plant seeds an Fertilize if plants get pale. Except for
inch apart and snip seedlings at ground slugs, coriander has few pests and dis-
replant every 2 weeks until the weather Harvest sprigs once plants are 6 Rau Ram, Vietnamese coriander (above); 'Sio
gets too warm. inches tall. When the roots are needed Bolt' coriander (below)
35
t h e e n cyclop e dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
seeds indoors in early win when dried, but for the best flavor it
ter and set seedlings out still needs to be added at the end of
when the soil has warmed. cooking. Culantro is most often used
moderately fertile, fast curries and rice dishes. The seeds are
sun. In warm climates, dry frying pan for a few minutes before
Coriander root tainers and wintered over soning in Thai cookery. The roots are
for a recipe, harvest whole, vigorous feet tall with a rosette of sharply savory mixture in curries, particularly
plants using a spading fork. (Plants toothed oblong basal leaves (growing in red and green curry pastes (see
that have started to bolt are not suit from the crown at the base of the plant) recipe, page 86.) In recipes that call for
able, as they are fibrous.) Before dig about 4 inches long and 1 inch wide. coriander root, you can substitute
ging them up, loosen the soil well Flowering stems grow to about 18 coriander stems.
around the roots so they won't break. inches. Keep flowering stems cut back Rau ram is used fresh in soups,
The coriander mimics, rau ram and in order for a continual harvest of the green and chicken salads, and as a
culantro, are tender perennials avail basal leaves. Control slugs and snails. fresh garnish. See the recipe for salad
able from a few specialty herb nurs rolls on page 78 and for Henry's salad
eries. Rau ram is offered in plant form Varieties on page 77. In Singapore and Malaysia,
from herb specialists but will root in When choosing coriander (cilantro) the Chinese population adds rau ram
water from bunches available in Asian varieties for leaf production, chose to a spicy noodle dish. Rau ram is gen
markets. Rau ram is a spreading plant those designated as slow-bolting, avail erally used fresh, for it is quite odifer
about 1 l/2 feet tall, grown in filtered able from Shepherds, Nichols, and ous when cooked. For this reason, it is
sun. It likes fertile, moist soil. It is con Johnny's. See the specialty herb cata best added just before serving it in hot
sidered invasive in areas where it logs listed in the Resources section for foods and soups.
thrives, but its shallow roots makes it culantro and Vietnamese coriander.
36
c o ria n de r c o r n
CORN BABY
Zea mays
den in organic, fertile soil. Choose vated for baby corn, not sweet corn;
from the varieties listed below. Plant offered by Nichols Garden Nursery
seeds 1 inch deep and 3 inches apart. and Evergreen Y. H. Enterprises.
Thin to 6 inches. Side dress with a 'Japanese Hulless': 100 days to pop
high-nitrogen fertilizer when plants corn, much less for baby corn;
are about 6 inches tall. Mulch with an plants short, to 5 feet
organic mulch to control weeds and 'Jubilee': 85 days to mature corn; a
conserve moisture. Birds steal the midseason hybrid; if allowed to
seeds out of the ground, so cover the mature, produces sweet yellow kernels
beds. Fertilize again when about 2 feet
tall. Water regularly. Keep an eye on How to prepare: Remove the husks
your plants, as baby corn is ready early and silks and trim the stem. Fresh
in the season. The object is to harvest baby corn needs a few more minutes of
the cobs when they are young and cooking then the conventional canned
tender, before they start to develop, product.
usually within 4 days of the appear Baby corn is most associated with
ance of silks. China and, to a lesser degree, Japan.
multiple shoots per plant, as they give whole baby bak choy and mushrooms
'Baby Corn': about 65 days for imma for fancy presentations, sometimes
ture ears; a variety especially culti- with baby pac choi and a gravy.
37
t h e e n cyclope di. a 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
filled soil, and ample water during the 'Japanese Long Pickling': 60 days; dark
'
growing season. Work bone and blood green, crisp fruits to 1 foot
meal into the soil before planting. 'Orient Express': 60 days; hybrid; slim,
When soil and weather are warm, dark green fruits; disease tolerant
plant the seeds about 1 inch deep and 6 'Suyo Cross': 61 days; hybrid with
inches apart. Thin later to 2 feet apart. northern China origins; large vines;
Put a trellis in place at the time of fruits ribbed, dark green to 1 foot;
summer areas provides cucumbers into 'Sweet Success': 58 days; hybrid; foot
the fall. If plants are pale, apply fish long fruits with sweet flavor; good
adult beetles can destroy young cucum pickled in most of Asia and used as a
ber vines and carry diseases. Floating condiment. Asian cooks often sprinkle
row covers keep beetles away but need sliced cucumbers with salt to draw out
to be removed when the plants flower some of the liquid before using them
problem, particularly late in the sea chiles, lemon juice, and fish sauce for a
son. More serious diseases affect salad. In India, cucumbers are consid
scab, and anthracnose. Scab attacks the grated and combined with yogurt and
corky patches with a velvety olive etable. In Sri Lanka, cucumbers are
'Suyo Cross' cucumber as moldy fruit and brown patches on chiles to accompany a curry; in Korea,
the leaves. Pull up affected plants, as cucumber slices are sometimes stir-
no cure is known for any of these con fried with beef. Japanese cooks make a
CUCUMBERS ditions. When possible, plant resistant soup with chicken, ginger, and cucum
frost. They need full sun, rich, humus- and often classified as "burpless."
38
c u c u m be r s daiko n
gent. Radish roots are served either raw soil should be light and well drained,
DAIKON
or cooked. With some varieties, the with a generous amount of compost.
Raphanus sativus leaves, seed pods, and seeds are also Radishes are light feeders, however, so
Cantonese: lo bok; Mandarin: lao bo; used. Certain varieties store well and they need little fertilizer. Keep radishes
Japanese: daikon; Hindi: muli are used as a winter staple. Varieties of consistently moist to avoid cracking
strong-flavored Korean radishes are and too hot a taste, though you should
used in kim chee. High-quality daikons take care not to overwater. Keep beds
TWO TYPES OF RADISHES ARE
are fine-textured, nonfibrous radishes weeded.
used in Asia: the small spring
with juicy flesh. In some areas of the country, radish
European-style radishes and the very
Radish seeds are easily sprouted, es are bothered by root maggots that
large radishes generally called Chinese
producing highly nutritious seedlings. are best controlled by rotating crops.
radishes or by their Japanese name,
Radishes belong to the same family as
daikon. The large Asian radishes are
cabbages and other brassicas, so they
the subject here., They vary in size and How to grow: Most varieties of
should not follow each other. Flea bee
shape from round globes about 6 inches Asian radishes are planted in fall and
tles can also be a problem. Alternaria,
in diameter to long roots of up to 2 mature in cool weather, but a few can
clubroot, and certain viruses are poten
feet. Japanese daikons are usually be planted in the spring. Sow radish
tial diseases. When possible, purchase
white, while the Chinese radishes may seeds directly in the garden. Plant
resistant varieties.
be white, red, or green. seeds 1h inch deep; thin to 4 inches
Asian radishes are juicy and flavor apart for smaller varieties and up to 16
ful, ranging in taste from mild and inches apart for the largest. They can
sweet Chinese to the strong and pun- be planted in rows or wide beds. The
'Mino Early' and 'Red Meat' radishes
39
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
Y white sprouts in the same way you do mung and soy closet. Keep the seeds moist but not wet. They will germi
beans are sprouted (see page 25). Or, for tastier sprouts, you nate in 3 to 5 days and grow into white, thin seedlings.
can produce little green plants in a shallow container such When they are about 2 inches tall, bring them out into a
as a paper milk carton, one side removed, laid horizontally. well-lit but not sunny area to turn green. In a day or so, the
For drainage, punch 6 or 8 holes in the bottom. Add an young plants will be green, have a few leaves, and be ready
inch or so of damp sand, sprinkle a few tablespoons of for harvesting. To harvest, cut across the plants above the
untreated daikon or pea seeds over it, and add a thin layer soil line with scissors.
Generally speaking, these large, turnip-shaped roots about 4 inches sometimes contain grated radishes.
long-season radishes can be harvested across; tender and sweet; used fresh According to Elizabeth Andoh,
at any stage. After reaching maturity, and pickled; not for spring planting author of Japanese cookbooks, in
they can be left in the ground for 1 to 2 'Miyashige': 60 days; a white-fleshed, Japan, daikon is "the all-impressive,
months but may become tough if left green-necked fall radish with crisp all-purpose, absolutely everything kind
much longer. They keep well if stored flesh; popular for pickling of vegetable. When it's in season, it
in a cool place. In Japan, they are 'Shinrimei' ('Red Meat'): Chinese would be hard to find anybody in
sometimes left in the garden, covered "beauty heart" radish with white Japan who hadn't eaten a daikon with
with snow. For radish leaves, harvest skin, green shoulders, and red flesh; in three days." Daikon is usually finely
the tender young leaves of varieties good raw or cooked grated and often mixed with soy sauce
being grown for roots, or grow special to make a dipping sauce served with
varieties bred just for the leaves and How to prepare: Throughout Asia, tempura and other dishes. Chunks of
harvest at any stage as needed. the young, tender green tops of Asian daikon can be steamed and sauced
radishes are braised or added to soups, with miso. A traditional New Year
Varieties and radish roots are washed, scraped, dish is julienned strips of daikon, car
'Mino Early': 40 days; long white roots and cut up or grated for addition to rots, and dried apricots served with a
to 24 inches; crisp, mild; Japanese soups and other dishes. sweet-and-sour sauce. Daikons are
type; vigorous plants for spring and The Chinese use cooked radishes in pickled in rice vinegar or rice wine and
fall many ways but rarely use the root raw. soy sauce or prepared as salt pickles,
'Misato Green': 60 days; long roots; They often stir-fry radishes after salt which are used as an accompaniment
Chinese radish with high-quality ing and draining them. The stir-fries to the meal or added to dishes as a fla
green, juicy, sweet flesh include pork, shrimp, or shellfish. voring. They are also braised or used
'Misato Rose': 60 days; rose-colored Also, radishes are made into hearty in fish stew, soups, and salads.
flesh, light green and white skin; winter soups and stews. Chinese sauces
40
d a k o n eggpla nts
ate watering and should never be methods for eggplants include braising
Flea beetles, spider mites, and plant is served cold with a sesame
mites can be a nuisance in warm, dry fried and served in a spicy sauce. In
problem in the South. Verticillium wilt baked and served with a variety of
and phomopsis blight are common dis sauces, including a dipping sauce of
ease problems in humid climates. grated ginger and soy sauce, braised in
41
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
Asia, with two notable exceptions. T he steamed prawns calls for great
ing odor and the Brahmans in India do favorite in Korea where, along with
because they believe it stirs the baser chiles, it is an integral to the national
passions. On the other hand, in much dish, kim chee, and popular in many
l
of Asia, people value its medicinal cooked dishes. In India and Southeast
Although easily grown, garlic per Garlic is ready for harvest when the In addition, whole garlic cloves are
forms best in mild, dry climates. It's plant tops turn brown (the ideal pickled and enjoyed in most of Asia.
best planted in the fall or early spring. moment is when about half of the
Garlic prefers full sun and a well leaves are still green). Dig the heads
drained, loose soil rich in organic mat and allow them to dry on a screen in
Divide the heads into individual prevent rotting and to allow braiding,
cloves and plant them about 1 'h inches retain several inches of dried stalk on
deep and 4 inches apart. In cold-winter each head. Store garlic in a cool, dry
areas, mulch with straw to protect fall area with good air circulation.
growth produce the best bulbs. 'Gilroy California Late': good flavor,
Decrease your watering once the leaves juicy cloves, long keeping; ideal for
flowering stalks. Garlic greens are also good flavor, keeps well
sometimes lightly harvested and used 'Romanian Red': cloves streaked with
in cooking as you would scallions, pro red; hot and pungent; stores very
42
g a r I i c chin e s e I e e k
Allium tuberosum
Varieties
Cantonese:gau tsoi; Japanese: nira;
Garlic chives can be obtained as divi
Mandarin:jiu cai; Thai: kui chaai;
sions, transplants, and seeds. Chinese
Vietnamese: he
leeks are seldom available, and then
Enterprises.
(CHINESE LEEK
FLOWER)
How to prepare: These Asian alii
Allium ramos'um (A. odorum) urns have a strong taste, more like gar
Cantonese: gau choi fa lic than onion, and tend to get stringy
How to grow: These alliums are and renew the plants. Remove the seed Yellow chives are the blanched
leaves of garlic chives. Blanching ren
best planted in spring. They need at heads on garlic chives, as they reseed
ders them softer, with a sweet and mel
least 6 hours of sun daily and average readily and can become a nuisance.
low onion flavor. They require only
to rich, well-drained, moist soil. Divide all plants every 3 or 4 years.
brief cooking and are usually added to
Seedlings grow slowly and, in short cli In Asia, mature chive plants are
a dish at the last minute. They are stir
mates, usually take the entire season to sometimes blanched in the garden to
fried with noodles, pork, and poultry
mature from seeds, so they are not har produce yellow, tender leaves and
as well as used in soups and steamed
vested the first year. stalks. This is done by completely
dishes. See the pea shoots with crab
Once established, garlic chives excluding light. Plants at least a year
sauce recipe on page 71.
bloom but once, in early fall. Chinese old are first cut to the ground and a In Japan, chive lea�es are cut in
leeks, on the other hand, bloom at least solid container 10 or so inches deep is lengths and added to soups and sukiya
twice throughout the spring and sum inverted over the crowns to exclude the ki or used whole as a garnish.
mer and produce multiple stems with light. Within 10 days to 3 weeks, long,
43
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
How to grow: Gingers are tender, ginger root, are available at produce
warm, humid summers. They are worth rhizomes that show good growth buds
trying in cooler or drier climates but (like eyes on a potato). True ginger is
considered an experiment. Gingers pre The Banana Tree. Mioga ginger is ,rare
fer bright light to hot sun, so plant in a but sometimes available from nurseries
warm, fairly shady spot. They also need that cater to a Japanese clientele. I pur
rich, moist soil with good drainage, as chased mine from a vendor at my local
they will rot in cold, wet soil. Keep well farmers' market.
is planted in early spring and the rhi How to prepare: Mature ginger is
zomes harvested 9 months later, in late stronger in flavor than freshly dug,
the house, planting outside when the root is peeled and sliced in a dish then
weather warms up. Ginger can also be removed, or very finely minced and
True ginger can be harvested after 5 vor to soups, stews, dressings, and stir
months when it has plenty of full fries. See the many stir-fries in the
grown leaves, but for the biggest har recipe section to get a feel for how to
vest, wait for 8 or 9 months. If the use ginger. Mioga ginger flowers and
Ginger sprouts (above); ginger plant (center);
weather becomes too cold, either har leaves are used for flavoring in stir
and Mioga ginger flower buds, ready for
vest the rhizomes or bring the entire harvest (below) fries (see recipe, page 68) and soups.
44
ginge r I i m e I e a f
A CITRUS-SCENTED GRASS-FAMILY
Southeast Asia. This tropical perennial citrus-a small tree with rounded
grows to 3 feet in temperate climates. with knobby fruit. Its fragrant leaves
'
The lemon-scented oils are in the and thick green rind are used in cook
grown outdoors in climates where the How to grow: Lime leaf is grown
temperature stays above the mid-twen outside where there is no frost; in other
if brought inside in winter. Plant divi bring it indoors in winter. Plant the
sions in good, fast-draining soil in par tree in a large pot in fast-draining soil.
tial shade. Fertilize the plants a few Maintain a regular watering schedule;
times during the growing season and through the summer, fertilize once a
Lemon grass plant (above), and how to mince month with citrus fertilizer.
keep the soil moist. Lemon grass has
(below)
few disease and pest problems.
companies. If a few roots are attached, coarsely chopped. Usually the stalks
sometimes a stalk from the market will are removed from a dish before serv-
How to prepare: Harvest the white pounded together with other herbs to
leafstalks by cutting them at the base of form a paste for adding to a dish (see
the plant once it's established. Use the Thai curry recipe on page 88). To
45
t h e e n cyclop e dia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
peeling necessary
Luffa acutangula
Hindi: kali tori; Mandarin: si gua;
How to prepare: Luffa fruits are
Cantonese: sze kwa
edible only when immature. Cook
l
Outside, grow lime leaf in well
L. cylindrica can be stuffed with ground pork and
drained organic soil. Add a citrus fer
Hindi: ghiya tori; Mandarin: si gua; braised. A traditional Chinese soup is
tilizer according to the directions on
Cantonese: see kwa; Japanese: hechima made with pork or chicken broth and
th e p ackage. Grow lime leaf in full
bean curd cubes. Just before serving
ning in the spring, feed with
sun. Begin
T HE TWO TYPES OF LUFFA ARE the soup, thinly sliced luffa is added
in late
citrus fertilizer, tapering off
both annual vining plants in the and briefly cooked.
new growth
sum m er to discourage
cucumber family. Their fruits, associat Do not eat the mature fruits; they
to frost.
susceptible
ed with Chinese cooking, are eaten as a are extremely bitter and are a strong
How to prepare: Kaffir lime leaves L. cylindrica has more cylindrical fruits
tree is with smoother skin.
m ay be harvested when the
are at least 3
estab lished and its leaves
fragrant leaves func
How to grow: The cultivation of
in ches long. The
both luffas is the same. They need a
ing like bay leaves, slowly
tio n in cook
long, warm growing season. Grow and
citrus flavor in long
relea sing their
maintain them as you would cucum
soups, and curries.
simmered dishes,
bers (see the entry for Cucumbers).
They are excellent in fish dishes and
chicken, and other meat dishes. The Many catalogs list luffa simply under
tightly in
fr esh leaves may be wrapped the common names. While unstated in
plastic wrap and frozen for future use. the catalog, some varieties are short
be
Finely shredded, the rind may day plants and don't flower in north
and added to
sprink led over salads ern latitudes.
curries during the last few moments of 'Edible Ace': smooth, green fruits; 8 to
cooking. 15 inches long, 3 inches across; use Luffa sponge gourd (top) and luff flowerabove)
46
I u f f a m u sta rd
MITSUBA MIBUNA
(JAPANESE PARSLEY; (MIBU GREENS)
TREFOIL)
Brassica spp.
Cryptotaenia japonica ·
tastes a bit like Italian parsley, with Mandarin: shui cai; Japanese: kyona,
dark green, trifoliate leaves and long, mzzuna
pale stems. In Japanese cuisine, every
feet tall and is usually treated as an and as a garnish. When used in soups Brassica juncea
annual, although it's a perennial. Start or as a garnish, the leaves and stems Mandarin: bao xin da jie cai; Cantonese:
mitsuba from seed, sow I/4 inch deep, are generally chopped and added in yeh choi; Japanese: kekkyu takana
and thin to 1 foot apart. Mitsuba is a the last minute of cooking.
is established and the young stems as business contract-several stalks of Brassica juncea var. rugosa
you need them once they are a foot tall. mitsuba are tied together in a knot and
When the older stems become tough, added to a dish for decoration. In
IN GENERAL, ASIAN MUSTARDS
they can be used in longer-cooking Japan, the knot is considered an auspi
are mild to pungent loose-leafed veg
dishes. Let a few plants go to seed for cious symbol.
etables that grow from one to several
the next year's planting.
feet in height. Most prefer cool grow
In Japan, mitsuba is sometimes gar
ing conditions. Headed mustards form
den blanched in the same manner as
heads of pale green, thin-textured
celery.
leaves that curl inward and are grown
How to prepare: Mitsuba leaves and vored Japanese green with a pleasant
stems are boiled for a minute or two mustardy taste. Mibuna plants, which
and eaten as a green, raw in salads, can grow up to 2 feet, have multiple
47
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
Varieties
Pickling Mustards
'Nan-fong': Chinese mustard; heat tol
orous
�
leaves purple with white v ins;
while growing or they may become too strong-flavored mustards are often
spicy to eat. Mustards are relatively dis combined with ginger and used in
ease free, although, as members of the soups, blanched and served with oil or
cabbage family, they are occasionally oyster sauce, or stir-fried with meat
plagued by pests that bother that group and bean sauce. In Japan, the mustards
(see the entry for Chinese Cabb�ge). are sometimes braised, used as salt
they are needed. For Japanese red mus- fries. Some mustards are mainly grown
'Giant Red Mustard' cut-and-come-again tard, the younger the leaf, the milder. for pickling (see recipe, on page 65),
(above); 'Giant Red Mustard' with mizuna in Mizuna tends to tolerate both heat and though they are also eaten fresh.
bloom in back; 'Osaka Purple' with peas;
cold, so it can be harvested over a long Pickled and cut, they add a real flavor
Shirona mustard showing slug and army worm
damage time. Harvest headed mustards mature boost to soups and stir-fries (see recipe,
48
m u sta rd p a c
PAC CHOI
Brassica rapa var. chinensis
Mandarin: bai caz�· Japanese: chingensai
TATSOI
(ROSETTE PAK CHOI,
FLAT CABBAGE)
attractive plant with deep green leaves Clockwise from above left: Tatsoi; Pack choi
How to grow: Pac choi is grown as Shanghai pac choi; bolt resistant;
half-strength feeding of fish emulsion Tatsoi (Tah T sai): 45 days; deep green,
Varieties spoon-shaped leaves form a tight
when planting, a supplemental feeding
rosette
about a month after planting, and again Green-Leafed, White-Stemmed
How to prepare: In China, pac choi
at the beginning of head development. Pac Choi
'Joi Choi' and the Shanghai pac choi is most commonly used in stir-fries and
'Joi Choi': 45 days; hybrid; vigorous;
can be grown as cut-and-come-again soups (see recipe, page 66) with meat
productive white stalks with deep
baby greens. See "The Pleasures of a and seasonings, and braised and served
green leaves
Stir-fry Garden" on page 11 for more with a sauce. In Canton, it is served
information.
Green-Stemmed Pac Choi with roast pork or a black bean sauce.
'Chinese Pac Choi': 65 days; fast-grow Often, whole baby pac choi are
Harvest shoots, individual leaves, or
ing, cold-resistant, compact plant; blanched and arranged on a platter
the whole plant, or use the cut-and
glossy leaves with cooked mushrooms or seafood
come-again method with the tall pac
'Mei Qing Choi': 45 days; a baby and glazed with a flavorful sauce.
choi. As a rule, the younger the plant,
49
t h e e n cyclope dia 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
Varieties
Mandarin: dou miao; Cantonese: dau peas; purple flowers; tall ines; vig
delicacies.
How to prepare: Succulent, sweet
How to grow: Pea plants are either 'Sapporo Express' snow peas; 'Oregon Giant' pea pods are popular in Chinese cook
snow peas ing. They are usually stir-fried until
short bushes or long climbing vines that
require well-drained organic soil, full just cooked through, only a minute or
sun, and cool weather. They tolerate two, and can easily be made mushy by
mildew are problems under some con
some frost but do poorly in hot weather. overcooking. They go well with
ditions.
Seeds should be planted 1 inch deep shrimp and poultry. In China, pea
Pick snow peas when the pods are
and 4 inches apart. Most varieties need shoots are braised and served with fish
still soft and pliable and the seeds
some form of support, which should be balls or stir-fried and served with crab
inside are still small. For pea leaves
placed in the ground at planting time. (see recipe, page 71). Pea sprouts are a
and shoots, snip off the top of the
. Peas need only a light fertilizing at luxury dish that is usually simply stir
shoots, including the top few leaves
midseason but profit from regular and fried with little seasoning except oil
and tendrils, starting when the plants
deep watering. If growing just for pea and garlic.
are about a foot high.
shoots, pinch back the growing points
when the plants are about 4 inches high How to grow sprouts: See the infor
to encourage the plant to be bushier and mation on growing daikon and pea
produce more shoots. shoots on page 40.
Pea seedlings are ambrosia to slugs,
50
pe a s peppe r s
PEPPERS
Capsicum annuum
Cantonese: laat jiu; Hindi: mirch;
Japanese: togarashi; Thai: prik chee faa;
Vietnamese: at
Varieties
Hot Peppers
'Chi-chien': very hot, medium-sized
Sweet Peppers chopped. Hot oils, made by simmering Southeast Asia take some working
'Shishito': 4-inch green to red wrinkled peanut oil with hot pepper flakes, are up to.
fruits; popular in Japan used to flavor stir-fries, as are pastes
51
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s i a n v egetable s
garden. If seed heads are not removed, Red and green perilla (left); 'Bronze' perilla
PERILLA (right)
however, perilla can self-seed and
(BEEFSTEAK PLANT) become a nuisance.
Perilla frutescens
v a r ie ties to add color to pickled ginger (see
Japanese: shiso (green perilla or red
Red and green perilla are available as recipe, page 64). Occasionally, they are
perilla, P. frutescens 'Atropurpurea' );
seeds from Richters. Look for 'Bronze' dried and sprinkled over rice.
Mandarin: zi su; Vietnamese: tia to
perilla in specialty herb nurseries and Chinese cooks generally prefer pur-
in local Asian markets. pie perilla to green; they use it for fla
IN J APAN, AROMATIC PERILLA is voring seafood and in pickling. In
popular and comes in two forms: green How to prepare: The young leaves Vietnam, perilla leaves are wrapped
and purple (red). The flat-leafed green and seeds are used in different ways in around grilled meats or served raw in
variety is spicier than the more crin Japan. The flower stalks of the green salads; in Korea, the seeds are added to
kled purple perilla. A cultivar of perilla perilla are sometimes arranged on a marinades or ground and added to
with two-tone leaves-green on top sashimi platter; the diner takes the soups.
and purple underneath, sold as chopsticks and rubs the flowers off into
'Bronze' perilla-is the perilla of the dipping sauce and the flowers cling
choice in Vietnam. to the fish as it is eaten. Green perilla
has a somewhat cinnamon flavor and,
How to grow: Both the green and in Japan, it is wrapped around sushi
purple varieties of perilla are large and its leaves are made into a tempura.
annual plants grown in the same man Purple perilla leaves taste a little of
ner as basil (see page 23). Perilla grows anise; Japanese cooks used them to fla-
to about 3 feet and is handsome in the vor tofu, as a garnish for tempura, and
52
p e r I I a shu n giku
Chinese: chih ma, zhi ma; mates. Fertilize with fish meal or
white, or orange single petals are dried and used for a refreshing tea (see
of bean sprouts with sesame seeds on
recipe, page 65).
page 84. Ground sesame seeds are pop enjoyed as well.
53
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
Mandarin: luo kuz�· Cantonese: san choi; mild-winter areas. Plant seeds lh inch Varieties
Japanese: tsuru-murasaki deep and about 1 inch apart in full sun
areas. Red Malabar spinach has green Malabar spinach needs warm grow
How to grow: If the weather is cool that can grow to 20 feet in tropical
Asian spinach varieties: 'lamina' and 'Tyee' on
and the soil is rich and filled with regions, but it is grown as an annual, left and American varieties on the right
54
spin a ch tu r nips
Varieties
sweet flesh
'Tyee': 53 days; fairly smooth leaves;
TURNIPS How to prepare: In Asia, young
tolerates downy mildew; slow to turnips are enjoyed pickled, sliced and
bolt Brassica rapa var. rapifera served raw with a dressing, or lightly
Mandarin: wujing; Cantonese: mo
sauteed in oil. They are also added to
Malabar Spinach ching; Japanese: kabu
stews and curries. The Japanese enjoy
Evergreen Y. H. Enterprises and
turnips carved in the shape of chrysan
Nichols Garden Nursery carry
ASIAN TURNIPS ARE USUALLY themums and pickled and used as a
Malabar spinach.
eaten when quite young and are garnish, boiled with a miso sauce; they
55
t h e e n cyclopedia 0 f a s ia n v egetable s
Water chestnuts
56
w a te r che stn uts w n te r s q u a sh
WINTER MELON
(WAX GOURD)
Benincasa hispida
Cantonese: tung kwa; Mandarin: dong
gwa; Japanese: tougan
WINTER SCU)ASH
(JAPANESE PUMPKIN)
Cantonese: nam kwa; Japanese: kabocha
the same manner as winter melon, steamed whole. The top is cut off,
Varieties
except it is harvested when immature. seeds are removed, and stock is poured
Winter melon is carried by Stokes,
Winter squash is similar to Western into the cavity. The melon is set in a
Nichols, Kitazawa, and Evergreen,
winter squash; in fact, many popular pan and steamed for hours. Cooks then
and Johnny's carries a large selection of
varieties of the latter are bred in Japan. add mushrooms, vegetables, and sea
Japanese winter squash.
sonings to the soup. To serve, you
How to grow: Winter melons and Winter Squash reach into the melon and carve off a bit
winter squash are grown in a similar The following were all bred in Japan of the side with each serving.
manner and under the same conditions and have dense, sweet flesh. The flavor of fuzzy melon is similar
as cucumbers (see above). Hot-weather 'Red Kuri' (Orange Hokkaido, Baby to that of a mild zucchini and it's mostly
annuals, they mature in about 150 Red Hubbard): 92 days; orange, used in soups and pork and chicken
days. Both are large plants that usually teardrop-shaped squash stir-fries. Before using, peel off the
ramble over the ground and are planted 'Sweet Mama': 85 days; green; squat fuzz.
about 8 feet apart. They are heavy shape; 2 to 3 pounds; dense; one of Winter squash, a native of North
feeders and prone to a number of the the best America, is gaining in popularity in
same pests as cucumbers. 'Sweet Dumpling': 100 days; green and Asia-especially in Japan, where it is
Winter melons may be harvested at white stripes; squat shape; small (4 most commonly braised in a dashi
any stage-from very immature to inches) stock (see recipe, page 73) or added to
mature. Mature winter melons can be soups. In China, it is stir-fried with
stored in a cool area for 3 months. How to prepare: In China, the pork and mushrooms or made into a
Fuzzy melon is primarily eaten in its white-fleshed winter melon is usually savory soup with pork or fish. In
immature stage, at about 6 inches long. served as a soup. It can be cut up, but Thailand, cooks braise winter squash
Winter squash must be allowed to fully for festive occasions, it is usually in coconut milk with lots of seasonings.
57
cooking from the I
as 1 an
gar en
pantry are a cast-iron frying learn that these "Asian foods" were
blackened with use. When I set up discovered that even the Asian food we
housekeeping in the early 1960s, I had eat in restaurants distorts our view, as
never seen a wok, but once I became these dishes are first, tailored to
familiar with it, I made it one of my American tastes, and second, represent
best-used tools. Other Asian influences Asian restaurant rather than home
kitchen as well. Stir-frying ranks with The fact is, well-meaning Chinese
soup at the top of my list of ways to chefs, wanting to please their guests,
prepare garden vegetables. Japanese often use more meat and oil in the
noodles fried with cabbage, and carrots In introducing Asian cooking, it is United States than they would in
and chicken soup with chive important to point out that its day-to China. And because Asian vegetables
dumplings and pac choi, are family day style differs quite sharply from often are either unavailable or unfa
favorites. In recent years, my constant what Americans generally think of as miliar to Americans, many Chinese
exposure to Asian vegetables has led Asian fare. Consider that Asians rarely chefs limit their use to just a few dishes,
me to consider pac choi, bunching know how Americans really eat at incorporating only some of their cab
onions, fresh ginger, pea pods, and home-they think we live on ham bage-family greens and none of the
fresh coriander as reliable staples. burgers and French fries and remain fresh ginger shoots or Chinese chives
unaware of the corn on the cob and enjoyed in China. Japanese chefs here,
zucchini bread that enrich our lives who are usually unable to obtain a full
and you start to sense how bound we array of Japanese herbs and, again, are
Tempura vegetables and a lovely Thai squid
are to stereotypes. I myself, who was catering to American tastes, tend to
salad, filled with fresh herbs, are two great
Asian dishes. raised on chop suey and bottled curry avoid using seaweed and daikon. Even
59
c o oking f r o m t h e a s i a n ga rde n
Asian Cuisines
recipes in most Asian cookbooks aimed when possible, all edible parts of both
at American cooks reflect this bias not plants and animals are used. Until
only by including few vegetable dishes recently, the lack of refrigeration, too,
A
s Asia is so large and the cultures
but by routinely substituting American forced a reliance on pickled and dried so varied, it helps to concentrate on
vegetables for Asian ones in recipes. foods. Foods are pickled either by salt a few of the cuisines in detail.
Significantly, gardeners can view curing or in vinegar. At first taste, these
the food of Asia differently. We need vegetables can be too strong for Chinese Cooking
not be limited by the supermarket or Western palates, but within the context
by the restaurateur's hopes of pleasing of Chinese cooking in general and, in Chinese cooking is a rich cuisine for
a timid, habit-bound clientele. Rather, particular, along with the often neutral the gardener-cook because many of the
we have the luxury of exploring Asian components of a Japanese meal, they Chinese cooking techniques treat veg
cuisines by growing the vegetables and can provide an enjoyable tang. etables beautifully. Be warned, however:
herbs native to them. Of course, a thor Also common in much of Asia but the range of ingredients and s yle in
ough summary of Asian vegetable foreign to most Westerners are dried Chinese cooking is enormous. Cooks in
cookery in the few pages available here foods such as shrimp and pac choi. northern China make dishes and use
is impossible. The subject is enormous, These flavors might be compared to vegetables that their neighbors to the
not only because of the many nationali that of raisins in contrast to the flavor south have never heard of, and the
ties involved but also owing to the of fresh grapes; the original taste is opposite is true as well.
vastly different climates, from the trop intensified and altered in subtle ways. In China, food is one of the major
ics to the mountains, encompassed by When you open a package of dried components of the culture. In fact, dis
the continent. Here, I focus on Chinese shrimp, the strong smell could discour cussing China's cooking without con
and Southeast Asian cooking. You will age you but, once cooked and com sidering the philosophical and medici
find some information on Japan, bined with other ingredients, the nal aspects of the food is something
Korea, and India and summaries of shrimp has quite a subtle taste. (For like taking a diamond out of its setting:
their cooking styles, but Chinese, Thai, comparison's sake, think of the strong the stone is wonderful to look at, but
and Vietnamese food dominate flavor of dried Parmesan cheese when its true potential is hard to experience.
because, of all Asian food cultures, they tasted alone.) For thousands of years, Chinese poets
incorporate the greatest array of veg A discussion of Asian foods would and philosophers have expounded on
etables and herbs gardeners can grow be incomplete without coverage of their foods and food preparation. Each holi
and enjoy. healthfulness. You are surely aware by day, each event in a person's life, is
Though Asia has long supported now of the campaign against saturated associated with specific foods. But the
vast populations, only a small part of fat and for fiber in the diet. In this cultural significance of food in China
the land supports agriculture. Out of regard, Asian cooking ranks high has long been matched by the minute
necessity, then, Asian cooks have had to among cooking styles. The cooking oils attention paid to its nutritional proper
maximize the use of their food, energy, are predominantly vegetable based, ties. Food itself has always been treated
and water, and this need has led to myriad vegetables make up a large part as an integral part of personal health
many similarities among cuisines. For of most meals, and protein sources are care. In fact, during some of the
instance, oven cooking, which is fuel lean, as in the case of tofu. So, unlike ancient dynasties, physicians who spe
intensive, is found in none of these far too marw of life's pleasures, authen cialized in nutrition were among the
countries. Grazing land is limited, so tic Asian food is good for you. highest-ranking doctors, and foods we
the flesh of large grazing animals is now describe as high in vitamins and
rarely used. Food itself is dear, so, minerals were often prescribed for spe-
60
a si a n c uisin e s
cific conditions-iron-rich foods fol teins are some form of soybean and butter, consider potatoes cooked with
lowing childbirth, for example. seafood. As to vegetables, a somewhat mustard seeds, ground cumin seeds,
Daily fare in China consists of rice limited range is widely used in numer coriander, freshly grated ginger, red
served with vegetable-based dishes in ous variations. Most often, vegetables chilies, peanuts, and lemon juice
which meat or seafood is used primarily appear in braised dishes, served cold wonderful! Served with chapatis, an
as a seasoning. Thus, stir-fries of with a dressing of some sort, or as unleavened whole-wheat bread, and
greens or beans might contain pork, pickles, which in some of their many raita, a yogurt dish made with shred
chicken, or shrimp, but only in small forms are served with practically every ded cucumbers, this dish is close to
amounts. There might be meat in the meal. Rice and noodles are the primary heaven.
stock base of a braised vegetable dish starches; seasonings include ginger and In many parts of India, the people
or in a stew with vegetables. onion plus numerous herbs, some of are vegetarian; in others, they eat some
Throughout most of China, the which are native to Japan. meats and seafoods. Dahl-a loose
myriad member� of the cabbage family In Japan, as perhaps no other coun term covering various legumes such as
are the primary vegetables. Also com try, the visual presentation of the meal dried split peas and lentils-and milk
mon is a wide variety of squash and has the aesthetic value of high art. A products, including yogurt, are prima
beans. Ginger, garlic, and onions are simple, clear soup might be garnished ry protein sources, particularly for the
the basic seasonings. The use of herbs with chrysanthemum petals or a per vegetarian segment of the population.
is unusual, as these are considered fect leaf of mitsuba. The love of nature Vegetables common in India include
medicinal, not culinary. But Chinese is often expressed in this medium eggplants, potatoes, beans, carrots,
food draws intense flavors from dried with daikon carved in the shape of a cauliflower, okra, peas, and many
mushrooms, seafood, and fruits; sauces crane, for example, or layers of onion kinds of dried legumes. The pancake
made from seafood, beans, and fruits; shaped into a calla lily. Table settings, like chapati is served with most stewed
pickled vegetables; and soy sauce. too, are carefully thought out. For dishes and soups. Rice, often mixed
Many wheat breads and noodles are instance, a simple plate might contain with spices and vegetables, is common
consumed in China, especially in nothing but a few slices of crab-stuffed throughout most of the country.
northern areas, but rice is the predomi cucumber and a sprig of red perilla.
Southeast Asian Cook1ng
nant grain, and in much of China it is Appreciating the appearance of the
one-pot dishes, sea vegetables, a dis Indian Cooking India, most cultures use coconut milk
tinct scarcity of fats, and elegant pre in sauces, curries, and/or desserts,
sentation. While the Japanese enjoy Indian cooks are the world's "fla- peanuts are often part of a flavoring
many meat dishes, the primary pro- vorists." Instead of boiled potatoes with paste, and fish sauces are a common
61
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s i a n ga rde n
Ingredients�
urchase most of your ingredients in
Cooking Oils
Dried Ingredients
basils, and mints. Spicy dishes filled plex curries, and Indonesians enjoy Pickled Foods
with chilies are not unusual. many sambals (fiery pastes and condi
Of course, there are differences ments with seasonings unique to some Pickled foods are highly appreciated in
among the cuisines. For example, in areas). all of Asia. In Japan, in particular,
Vietnam, once a French colony, some meals are simply not complete
on pages 63-65.
62
c o n dim e nts
Sauces and Condiments "regular" is available in most American 1 pound white daikon radish, (12 to
fish sauces; and rice vinegar, sake, frozen tofu-which is chewier and 1/2 cup sugar
miso, and dashi for Japanese cooking. more porous than fresh-because it
Peel the daikon and carrots and cut
In The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking, soaks up flavor and marinades and
them into l/4" X 3" julienne strips. Put
Barbara Tropp gives detailed informa gives a meatier texture in the final
the vegetables in a medium bowl and
tion on how to select and use the best dish. Standard procedure for fresh tofu
sprinkle the salt over them. Crush the
of many kinds of Asian seasonings. She is to drain it, sliced, in a colander or on
ginger slice with the back of a cleaver
recommends both specific brands of paper towels for half an hour prior to
.
and add it to the vegetables. Stir the
these products and local sources all cooking. Simply cut the drained tofu
daikon and carrots with your hands to
over the country. into bite-size pieces or strips and toss it
disperse the salt evenly. Set the bowl
into a soup, stir-fry, or egg dish.
aside and let it sit at room temperature
Soy Sauce
for one hour.
Soy sauce is a pungent, salty brown liq Drain the vegetables and then,
uid made from fermented soybeans, Condiments using your hands, gently squeeze them
wheat, yeast, and salt. As a rule, to remove more of the liquid. Add the
Pickled Daikon and Carrots
Chinese cooks use the dark types for vinegar and sugar to the vegetables
color and the lighter ones for salting and stir until thoroughly mixed. Set
Both Helen Chang and Mai Truong
dishes. Japanese cooks-who will aside to marinate at room temperature
have helped me make these pickles.
alternately refer to this sauce as tamari for 2 hours. Drain the mixture and
Pickling daikon in this manner is tradi
or shoyu-generally use light to medi remove the ginger and discard it. Put
tional in,many parts of Asia. In China,
um strengths of soy sauce. A good the pickled vegetables in a tight-sealing
these pickles might be part of a
brand, available in most areas of this container and refrigerate until use.
farmer's lunch, served with rice and a
country, is the familiar Kikkoman, a T hese pickles keep refrigerated for up
vegetable stir-fry. In Vietnam, showing
medium-strength soy sauce. to 2 weeks.
the influence of the French, the slices
Makes about 2 cups.
Tofu might be used in a sandwich with liver
Tofu, also called bean curd, is a neu served with noodles and fragrant herbs.
tral-tasting, custardlike substance In Japan, they would be part of a selec This Japanese relish is a great accom
made from the curds of soybean milk. tion of pickles offered as condiments at paniment to grilled fish or marinated
T he greatest virtues of tofu are its a meal. firm tofu. A little goes a long way, as it
nutritional richness and its ability to If you prefer a crisp pickle, parboil is spicy. Because you'll be stuffing the
absorb flavors. Tofu comes in a range the daikon and carrots in a quart of daikon, straight (rather than curved)
of textures, from silken to extra-firm. boiling water into which l/2 teaspoon chile peppers are easiest to use.
Silken tofu is wonderful whipped into of alum has been added. See the recipe 5 thin, dried red chile peppers
desserts such as puddings and pies. for pickled mustard on page 65 for 1 piece white daikon radish, about
63
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s i a n g a rde n
Clockwise from top left: pickled daikon and carrots; daikon spicy relish; picked mustard, before and after; and slices of fresh Red Meat daikon with
sugar.
Remove the stems and tops from the inches of daikon can be sliced and 1/4 pound young ginger root
stick or an ice pick puncture the sliced cloth. Serve the relish at once in an
,
end of the daikon about 2 inches deep individual serving dish so each diner In a small saucepan, bring the rice
in 5 places. Force a pepper into each can season his or her own meal. vinegar, mirin, sake, and sugar to a
hole. (If the peppers are hard to get in, Makes 1/z cup, serves 4 to 6. gentle boil. Stir until the sugar dis
slice them in half and use the chop solves. Cool the liquid.
stick to work a half in each hole.) Bring a small pot of water to a boil.
Pickled G1nger (Gari)
Let the stuffed daikon rest for 5 Brush the ginger under running water,
minutes to soften the chiles. Grate 2 slice thinly, and then blanch slices for
Pickled ginger is most popular in Japan
inches of the stuffed daikon over a one minute. Drain the ginger and then
invariably accompanying sushi and
bamboo rolling mat or cheesecloth. transfer it into a sterilized half-pint
sashimi. The commercially prepared
(You need the daikon to be at least 5 pickles often have added red food col canning jar, layering it evenly with the
inches long to protect your knuckles oring but traditionally it is colored with whole shiso leaves. Pour the cooled liq
from the grater.) The remaining 3 red shiso leaves (perilla) as it is here. uid over the ginger. Cover and let
64
t e a
marry for 3 days in the refrigerator Place the lemon grass and the palm
before serving. The ginger will keep in sugar in the bottom of a teapot. Bring
the refrigerator for up to 1 month. the water to a boil and pour it into the
Makes 1/2 pint. teapot over the lemon grass. Let the tea
her. Small amounts of the mustard are This tea is famous in China and often
Amsoi)
65
c o oking f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
Steamed
Rice
S
teamed white rice is basic to all of
nee.
Shanghai
2 cups water Pour the oil into a wok. Heat over
Optional: 1 cup shelled green soy high heat until very hot. Add the gin
Pac Choi
beans
ger and stir-fry quickly until lightly
Rinse the rice under running water, brown. Add the white stems from the
then drain and place in a pot with a Stir- fry pac choi and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
tight-fitting lid. (If using, add the Add the greens and continue to stir-fry
optional green soybeans to the rice at for 2 or 3 minutes more until the pac
this point.) Cover and bring to a boil. choi is tender but still slightly crunchy.
his recipe is a variation on one
Reduce the heat to low and simmer for
diced
greens
66
r e cipe s
Serve at once.
1 I 4 teaspoon salt
Stir- fry 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh
Serves 3 to 4 as a side dish.
coriander leaves
T
his popular vegetable stir-fry con
trasts sweet and hot. Its richness high heat until very hot. Add the car
combines well with other dishes con rots and stir-fry for 3 or 4 minutes, add
taining the cool flavors of pac choi, the garlic and green onions and stir to
cabbage, or spinach. ·
mix. Continue to stir-fry until the car
into coins (about 3 cups) coriander and mix. Taste and adjust
67
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
Shishito Pepper For the stir-fry: dissolved. Add the beef strips, toss,
'
2 tablespoons peanut oil and set aside.
Stir-fry with into small strips Over high heat in a nonstick wok, heat
1 medium onion, chopped
the peanut oil until it is very hot. Add
red Italian frying pepper cut into blossoms; stir-fry 2 more minutes. Toss
learned about cooking baby Japanese
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger root fry the marinated beef for 1 minute or
on page 66) for a complete meal.
2 tablespoons oyster sauce until medium rare. Return the vegeta
For the marinade: 1/2 to 3/4 cups chicken broth bles to the wok, and then stir in the
1 tablespoon dry sherry 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
oyster sauce, the chicken broth, and the
2 tablespoons soy sauce
To make the marinade: red pepper flakes. Heat together for
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/2 pound beef filet strips soy sauce, cornstarch, and the sugar. stir-fry at once over rice.
68
r 8 c p 8 s
M
recipe on page 65)
Serves 4.
Vietnam, shared with me her 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
in this case with pork. I've also enjoyed Fresh green onions, chopped
pods, and carrots to this recipe. Serve Sprinkle the pork strips with the salt
this dish with rice and soy sauce. For a and half the minced garlic. Marinate
complete meal accompany it with the mixture for about 1 hour. Drain
another stir-fry and a light soup. If you the pickled mustard and chop it into 1-
can't make your own, pickled mustard inch pieces. In a hot wok heat the oil.
69
c o oking f r o m t h e a s i a n ga rde n
1/2 teaspoon salt water. Cut the red pepper in thin slices.
Bitter Melon 1 red bell pepper In a hot wok, heat one tablespoon of
2 tablespoons peanut oil, divided
with Beef 2 garlic cloves, minced
the oil. Add the bitter melon, garlic,
itter flavors are an acquired taste, fresh coriander leaves the wok, heat and then add the beef
radicchio you'll probably delight in this starts to brown but is still pink inside.
starch in a small bowl. Add the beef
rich and complex dish. Serve it with Add the marinating juices, bean sauce,
strips, coat thoroughly and set aside.
steamed rice. 1 cup water, and the sugar. Cook for
Cut the bitter melon lengthwise;
one more minute, but do not overcook.
1 tablespoon dry sherry remove inside pulp and seeds. Slice
Arrange the beef strips over the veg
1 tablespoon soy sauce thinly. Put into a bowl and sprinkle
1 tablespoon cornstarch etables on the platter. Garnish with
with salt. Let the melon sit for 20 min
112 pound beef tenderloin, cut in chopped coriander.
utes to remove some of the bitterness.
thin strips across the grain Serves 4.
After 20 minutes, squeeze out the
1 pound bitter melon
70
r e cipe s
For the pea shoots: or until just tender. Lightly toss them
Crab Sauce 1 tablespoon sesame oil with the sauce and serve them over
1 quart coarsely chopped fresh pea
steamed rice.
shoots
Serves 4.
ea shoots are a special vegetable
71
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
thinly
1 tablespoon cornstarch Heat all together while stirring, for Cut the widest stems lengthwise, so
1 tablespoon soy sauce another minute. they cook in the same amount of time
2 tablespoons vinegar Serves 6 to 8. as the smaller pieces.
2 tablespoons water
Bring a large pot of water to a boil;
1/2 teaspoon Chinese mustard
add 1/2 teaspoon of salt and then the
1 1/2 pounds raw shrimp, shelled,
cleaned, and deveined Gai Lon gai Ion and parboil for 1 1/z minutes.
H
stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the
2 large heads pac choi, stems
this recipe. She showed me how to drained gai ion and the bamboo shoots
sliced diagonally in 2-inch
prepare the gai ion by leaving only the and stir. Then, add the barbecued pork
pieces
rich tasting stalks and young buds. and the oyster sauce. Stir and cook
4 green onions, sliced diagonally
1 quart tatsoi leaves Purchase barbecued pork at gourmet until the gai ion is tender, about 2
and Asian markets. Accompany the more minutes. Transfer the mixture to
To make the marinade: Mix the mari stir-fry with rice, a light soup such as a warm plate and serve with rice.
nade ingredients together, add the chive dumpling soup (see recipe on Serves 2 as a single entree with a
shrimp, and refrigerate for 3 hours. page 76), or other stir-fried dishes. soup. Serves 4 as part of a traditional
Drain and reserve both the liquid and 1 pound of gai ion (about 5 cups Chinese meal combined with other
72
r e cipe s
M
get acquainted with this lovely soup.
1/4 cup miso paste (more or less to
soup, eaten most often at break After you have made it a few times try taste)
fast. Miso paste is made from fermented adding some kombu and/or dashi to 2 scallions, minced
73
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
2
Thai Chicken
medium carrots, chopped Optional: 1 tablespoon Thai fish
seeds
from the pan and add the onions.
Chinese stir-fry. Some folks enjoy the Salt and freshly ground black Saute until translucent, about 7 min
fish sauce that gives an authentic Thai pepper utes. Add the onions to the chicken
taste; others prefer to leave it out. 2 cups shelled fresh pigeon peas or along with 2 quarts of water. Add the
green peas (preferably fresh)
celery, carrots, lemon grass, ginger,
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 small green onions sliced thinly,
1 frying chicken (3 to 3 1/2 pounds), garlic, lime leaf, chiles, and ground
including 1-inch of the greens
cut in 6 or 7 pieces coriander and bring to the boil. Skim
1/3 cup chopped fresh coriander
1 large onion, chopped off and discard any foam, reduce the
leaves
3 ribs celery, chopped
1 tablespoon lime juice heat, then simmer for 45 minutes.
74
r e cipe s
through a colander. Pour the stock brane and extraneous fat from the back
rise to the top. Skim off and discard each rib to create pork rib sections
most of the fat on the surface. Soup about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
Meanwhile, cool and separate the Fill a medium saucepan with about
chicken meat from the bones and skin, 2 inches of water and bring it to a boil.
and add the meat back to the stock. Add a l-inch piece of the ginger and
his recipe was given to me by
You should have about 3 cups of chick-
en meat.
T Helen Chang. Growing up in
1/2 teaspoon of salt to the water and
3/4 pound pork spareribs, cut cross to 45 minutes longer, or until the car
wise rots are tender and the daikon has
1 112-inch piece fresh ginger root,
turned translucent.
divided
Once the vegetables are done,
3/4 teaspoon salt, divided
remove the pan from the heat and add
1 medium white daikon radish
the pepper and adjust the seasonings.
(about 16 inches long)
1/8 cup dried scallops, in 1/2-inch and either serve immediately or refrig
cubes erate and reheat before serving.
1/4 cup Virginia ham, in 1/4-inch
Serves 4 to 6.
cubes
75
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s a n ga rde n
frozen
with greens.
T
his recipe was created by Helen
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh reserved for another use
Chang of Los Altos, California. A
Oriental chive leaves Hot pepper sauce (optional)
native of Taiwan, her version of this 4 tablespoons finely grated peeled Garnish: 3 teaspoons chopped
classic soup is light and savory and a fresh ginger root, divided coriander leaves
Oriental chives. T he dough for the leaves To make the dumplings: In a medium
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black
dumplings can be purchased already bowl, place the pork, cabbage, carrots,
pepper
prepared, in the produce or frozen chives, 2 tablespoons grated ginger,
1 teaspoon salt
food section of your supermarket, or in coriander leaves, pepper, salt, sugar,
1 teaspoon sugar
Asian markets. Sometimes they are 3 teaspoons cornstarch
and cornstarch. Add the egg and stir to
called wonton skins, other times pasta 1 egg, lightly beaten combine the ingredients.
76
r e cipe s
immediately.
Henry's Salad
Pinch of salt
pot of water to boil and add the 118 teaspoon finely chopped fresh
utes, or until they become translucent. 6 cups butter lettuce, washed and
Coriander
Remove them from the water with a dried
H
bowl. Add the sugar and stir until it
soup pot. Add the remaining 2 table
landscaping contractor with has dissolved. Separate the onions into
spoons of ginger. Bring to a simmer
whom I work. He has helped me iden rings and add them to the bowl. Allow
and add the mushrooms. Simmer over
tify a number of Vietnamese greens the mixture to sit for 30 minutes.
low to medium heat for one minute.
and herbs over the years and generous In a small mixing bowl, combine
Add the pac choi leaves and chives to
ly shared the traditional ways they are the rice vinegar, soy sauce, Vietnamese
the simmering broth. Add hot sauce to
used in Vietnam. T he following is one coriander, mint, chile flakes, salt, and
taste, if using.
of his salad suggestions. the ginger, if being used, to make the
To serve: Fill the bowls with broth and 2 teaspoons sugar dressing.
pac choi. Garnish each bowl of 1 small Vidalia, Maui, or other sweet In a large bowl, toss the lettuce with
white onion, sliced paper thin
dumplings with chopped coriander. the dressing, coating the leaves well.
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
Serves 6. Divide the lettuce among four plates.
2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
Drain the onions. Divide and place
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh
them atop each serving. Garnish each
Vietnamese coriander
spearmint coriander.
77
c o o king f r o m t h e a s a n g a r d e n
Vietnamese .
Salad Rolls
(Goi Cuon)
M
any Asian cultures enjoy bean 1 12-ounce package of 11-inch egg
sprout salads. T his is a spicy and cook them for 1 minute. Do not roll wrappers (made with wheat
1/4 cup soy sauce cups of water to a boil, add the shrimp
78
r e cip e s
Before assembling the rolls, cut the not wet. Let the wrapper soften a few chive leaves on the top of the first roll
pork into thin slices. Peel and devein seconds. (The thickness of the salad of the wrapper, letting the chives stick
the shrimp and slice each in half rolls can vary-it depends on how out on one side. Finish rolling the
lengthwise. Wash and drain the lettuce much filling you put in. After you fill wrapper up until it forms a cylinder.
and herbs. Place the pork, shrimp, ver and roll a few you will determine the The shrimp will be visible from the
micelli, lettuce leaves, herb leaves, and final size you prefer.) outside through the wrapper. Repeat
bean sprouts in bowls near a clean To fill the first wrapper, spread sev assembly for each roll.
work surface. eral strands of noodles on it, 2 inches Place the finished rolls on a serving
Fill a large bowl with warm water from the bottom. Cover with part of a platter and garnish, or make up indi
and keep it at your work table. lettuce leaf, a selection of 3 or 4 differ vidual plates of 2 or 3 rolls each.
Dampen one egg roll wrapper at a ent herb leaves, a small amount of bean Accompany the rolls with a small bowl
time by dipping the edges into the sprouts, and three slices of the pork on of hoisin dipping sauce, another small
warm water; place it on your work top of each other. Fold the bottom part bowl of fish dipping sauce, and a bowl
surface and dampen the middle by of the wrapper over the ingredients of the hot chile paste.
sprinkling it with water. Spread the and fold in both sides of the wrapper, Makes 10 to 12 rolls, serves 4 to 6.
moisture around with your fingers so as you would to make a burrito. Place
the wrapper becomes evenly moist, but 3 shrimp halves and 3 whole garlic
79
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
(Above, left) To roll the salad rolls, first place the ingredients on the damp wrapper a few inches from the bottom. (Above, right) Fold the bottom part
of the wrapper over the ingredients, then bring over the sides. Place 3 shrimp in front of the rolled part and roll a half turn. (Below, left) Place a few
chive leaves on the wrapper then roll another turn until the roll is finished (below, right).
For the hoisin dipping sauce: add the garlic-pepper paste, fish sauce, kept in a jar in the refrigerator for sev
1/2 cup hoisin sauce sugar, and 3/4 cup warm water. Stir to eral weeks.
2 tablespoons water
combine. This dipping sauce can be Makes 1 lh cups.
1 tablespoon unsalted, dry-roasted
and minced
(nuoc nam)
80
r e cip e s
1 tablespoon mirin
6 green onions
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon vegetable oil sauce, the carrots, and the burdock To serve: In a nonstick frying pan, heat
root. Simmer the vegetables for 5 min the vegetable oil and brown the rolls
To make the sauce: Combine the water
utes, drain them, and set aside. Parboil evenly on all sides. You may have to do
with the sugar, mirin, and soy sauce
the beans in 2 cups of water for 3 min this in 2 batches. Return all the rolls to
and set aside.
utes, cool them quickly under running the pan and pour the sauce over the
cold water, drain them, and set them rolls and simmer them for another 5
To make the rolls: Cut the carrots
aside. minutes, turning them in the sauce so
lengthwise into strips about 5 inches
Spread the beef or pork slices on a they are evenly glazed. Serve on indi
long and 1/4 inch square. Peel the skin
cutting board and sprinkle them lightly vidual plates while still warm.
off the burdock root and cut it into the
with cornstarch. Serves 4.
same size strips as the carrots. To pre
81
c o okin g f r o m t h e a s i a n ga rde n
Spinach
Puree
prisingly light.
divided
membranes removed
drained
3 tablespoons butter
Edamame
beans in a colander. Put the beans in a
In a large pot, bring 1 cup of water to a
bowl and serve. Have snackers peel
boil. Slice off 2 inches of the ginger
their own beans and provide them
and add to the water. Shred the
with an extra bowl for the empty pods.
remaining ginger for the garnish.
his recipe was suggested to me by
T
Serves 2 as a snack.
Chop the green chiles and add to the
June Tachibana, who sells fresh
pot. Add the fresh spinach and cook
soybeans at the Palo Alto farmer's
for about 3 minutes. Drain the liquid
market. She says this traditional
and puree the mixture in a blender,
Japanese snack is often enjoyed with
and set aside.
beer. Salt helps keep the soybeans
In a pan, melt the butter and saute
bright green.
the onion until it is soft. Add the
2 tablespoons salt
pureed spinach to the onion and stir to
1/2 pound fresh green soybeans,
combine. Season with salt, nutmeg,
pods on
and cayenne pepper. Serve hot, gar
Pour 2 quarts of water in a large nished with shredded ginger.
saucepan and bring it to a boil. Add Serves 4.
the salt and stir to dissolve. Add the
82
r e cipe s
1h teaspoon sugar
Japanese
satisfying dish than the dried commer
1/2 teaspoon salt
cial version and contains a lot more
Garnish: 1 sliced green onion
Noodles nutrition.
In a wok heat the corn oil over high
'
2 tablespoons corn oil
N
oodles of many types are popular Stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the shallot
1/2 cup chopped pickled mustard
in Japan. I am most fond of the (see the recipe on page 65, or and the chopped leaves of the Chinese
fresh noodles available in Asian gro buy it in an Asian market)
cabbage and stir-fry 1 minute more.
cery stores and usually keep some on 1 cup Chinese cabbage ribs, sliced
Toss in the noodles and cook for 2
1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
hand. They are found in the refrigera more minutes. Add the chicken stock,
1 large shallot or small onion, diced
tor section and are sealed in plastic; Worcestershire sauce, chili powder,
4 cups Chinese cabbage leaves,
they usually keep for a few months. sugar, and salt. Cook 1 minute more to
chopped
Americans are mbst familiar with combine the flavors. Serve in a bowl
1/2 cup chicken stock
these ramen noodles in their dried 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce garnished with sliced green onion.
form. The following is a much more 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Serves 2.
83
c o oking f r o m t h 8 a s ia n ga rde n
B
there to give the surface a mottled look his is a lovely side dish to accompa
favorite Japanese way to cook
1 pound winter squash, Japanese squash just as it softens. Serve hot or at 1/2 cup sesame paste
Kabocha or 'Red Kuri' room temperature. 1/2 cup basic dashi (made following
84
r e cipe s
water until just tender. Drain and cool flat bread or pita bread, and Raita. 2 or 3 green chiles, seeded and
dressing and garnish with the shred 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg Preheat a gas, electric, or charcoal grill.
ded nori. Dash of ground cloves Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise
Serves 4 as a side dish. Dash of ground cardamom
and cut scores into the flesh, without
ture.
Serves 4.
85
c o oking f r o m t h e a s ia n ga rde n
C
hef Areeawn Fasudhani, of the
(about 1 cup)
grass
boil. Add the greens and cook for 1 1 teaspoon chopped green onions
C
ooked greens with a sesame dress water. Press the water from the Lettuce or cabbage leaves
1/3 cup soy sauce decorate with the mint and coriander
86
r e cip e s
T
his is a classic Indonesian dish and 2 cups fresh bean sprouts
cabbage, and bean sprouts for 30 sec
has many variations. I like this one 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 to 5 chiles, minced soy sauce, sugar, salt, lime leaves, and 2 onions to the same pan and fry over
2-inch piece fresh ginger root, grated 1/2 cups water. Bring the mixture to a medium heat until golden. Drain them
1/3 cup soy sauce boil and simmer, stirring often, for 30 on a paper towel and reserve. Quarter
1 teaspoon sugar
minutes. Cool the sauce, stir in the the hard-boiled eggs. Slice the tofu 1/4
1 teaspoon salt
fresh lime juice, and reserve. inch thick. In a serving bowl, toss the
2 Kaffir lime leaves (fresh or dried)
vegetables with the peanut sauce.
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
To make the vegetables: In a large pot,
Garnish with the sliced tofu, the quar
For the vegetables: bring 2 quarts of salted water to a roll
tered eggs and the fried onions.
3 cups yard-long beans, cut in 2- ing boil. Add the long beans and carrots
Serves 4 to 6.
inch lengths
and cook them for 2 minutes. Remove
87
c o oking f r o m t h 8 a s ia n ga rde n
Yields 1 cup.
2 cups snow peas, strings and pot, bring 2 quarts of salted water to a
1 cup chopped pac choi water to a boil again and blanch the
1 cup chopped mustard greens greens briefly. Drain and rinse them
For the red curry paste:
1/4 cup red curry paste (see above) with cold water and set them aside
5 to 1 0 dried red chile peppers
1 can (1 3.5 ounces) unsweetened
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
with the other vegetables.
coconut milk
1 teaspoon caraway seeds In a large pan, over low heat, saute
2 teaspoons salt
20 whole black peppercorns the curry paste for 3 minutes. Stir in
1 tablespoon palm sugar or
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds the coconut milk, salt, palm sugar, and
granulated sugar
4 Kaffir lime leaves (fresh or dried)
1/4 cup fresh lime juice fresh lime juice. Heat the sauce but do
3 shallots, minced
not boil or it will curdle. Add the veg
6 garlic cloves, minced
To make the red curry paste: Remove etables to the pan, toss together till well
1 2 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger root,
grated
the stems and seeds from the chiles. combined and adjust the seasoning.
2 stalks lemon grass, finely minced Soak them in hot water for 15 min Serve over steamed rice.
(white part only) utes. Set them aside. In a dry cast-iron Serves 4 to 6.
1/4 cup vegetable oil pan, toast the cumin seeds, caraway
88
r e cip e s
Tempura 73)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
Drain the vegetables on the paper tow
bles for tempura. Other vegetables, To serve the tempura: Make the sauce
To make the batter: With a fork, com
such as broccoli, yard-long beans, bell by heating the dashi, add then stirring
bine the egg yolk with the ice water in
peppers, bamboo shoots, daikon radish, in the soy sauce, mirin, and salt. As is
a small bowl. The batter should be the
and snow peas can also be used. traditionally done in Japan, provide
texture of heavy cream; just thick
You will need a heavy deep pot for each diner with a shallow bowl of the
enough to coat the vegetables. Just
frying; a slotted spoon for lifting the warm dipping sauce, to which they can
before frying the vegetables, stir in the
fried foods out of the oil; a platter lined add grated daikon and ginger to taste.
flour and the baking soda, beating just
with paper towels to drain the fried Serve the tempura accompanied by the
long enough to combine without over
vegetables; and a pair of long, wooden lemon wedges.
working the batter.
chopsticks (called cooking chopsticks) Serves 4.
to dip the vegetables in the batter. To make the tempura: The key to
1 zucchini, sliced 1/4 inch thick on pot; for best results less than half the
Shungiku leaves piece with the batter and fry for one
89
his section covers the basics of plan adding lime, and arid climates have fairly
planting and
irrigation, watering, weeding, crop rotation, going to plant, it's time to choose your veg
and using floating row covers. etables. Your major consideration is, of
course, what flavors you enjoy using in the
kitchen. With this in mind, look for species
90
plantin g an d m ainte nan c e
91
a p p e n d X A
Pat down the seeds and water carefully to side. A cold frame is perfect for hardening such as wood and bark chips and shredded
j
make the seed bed moist but not soggy. off plants. bark, do not work well as mulches in veg-
Mark the name of the plant and variety etable gardens, as they break down slowly
and the date of seeding on a plastic or Transplanting and take nitrogen from the soil. However,
wooden label and place it at the head of the they do make good mulches for pathways
row. When starting seeds outside, protect Before setting transplants out in the garden, and other areas of a more permanent
the seed bed with either floating row covers check to see if a mat of roots has formed at nature.
or bird netting to keep out critters. If slugs the bottom of the root ball. Open it up so Among the many benefits of mulching is
and snails are a problem, circle the area the roots won't continue to grow in a tan the moderation of soil temperatures. A
with hardwood ashes or diatomaceous gled mass. I set the plant in the ground at thick organic mulch helps keep roots from
earth to keep them away and go out at the same height as it was in the container, getting too hot in hot summer regions and a
night with a flashlight to catch any that pat the plant in place gently by hand, and black plastic mulch warms soil in cool
cross the barrier. If you start seeds in con water in each plant well to remove air bub regions in preparation for spring transplant
tainers, put the seedling tray in a warm, bles. I space plants so that they won't be ing. A variation on black plastic, in red and
but not hot, place to help seeds germinate crowded once they mature; when vegetables green, called IRT (Infra-Red Transmitting)
more quickly. grow too close together, they become prone is on the market. It has the heat-trans 1 it
When starting seeds inside, once they to rot diseases and mildew. If I'm planting ting qualities of clear plastic-in other
have germinated, it's imperative that they on a very hot day or the transplants have words, it warms soil even more than regu
immediately be given a high-quality source been in a protected greenhouse, I shade lar black plastic and also discourages weed
of light; otherwise, the new seedlings will them by placing a shingle or such on the growth (which clear plastic does not). The
be spindly and pale. A greenhouse, sun sunny side of the plants. I then install my red and green IRT is available from garden
porch, or south-facing window with no irrigation ooze tubing (see Watering and supply stores and mail-order garden-suppli
overhang will suffice, provided it is warm. Irrigation Systems, page 93) and mulch ers. When you remove the plastic mulches,
If such a place is not available, use f1uores with a few inches of organic matter. I keep dispose of them. These plastics don't
cent lights, which are available from home the transplants moist but not soggy for the decompose, although there are some brands
supply stores and specialty mail-order hous first few weeks. that claim to; it is more likely that they
es. The lights are hung just above the plants degrade into small pieces.
for maximum light (no farther than 3 or 4 Mulch1ng
inches away, at most) and moved up as the
plants get taller. Another option I use if the
Mulching reduces moisture loss, prevents Com posting
erosion, controls weeds, and minimizes soil
weather is above 60°F is to put my seedling Compost is the humus-rich result of the
compaction. When the mulch is an organic
trays outside on a table in the sun and pro decomposition of organic matter, such as
material, it adds nutrients and organic mat
tect them with bird netting during the day, leaves and garden trimmings. The objective
ter to the soil as it decomposes, making
bringing them in at night. of maintaining a composting system is to
heavy clay more porous and helping sandy
Once seedlings are up, keep them moist speed up decomposition and centralize the
soil retain moisture. Organic mulches
and, if you seeded thickly and have crowd material so you can gather it up and spread
include finished compost from your com
ed plants, thin some out. It's less damaging it where it will do the most good. Compost's
post pile, grass clippings, pine needles, com
to do so with small scissors. Cut the little benefits include providing nutrients to
posted sawdust, straw, and the many agri
plants out, leaving the remaining seedlings plants in a slow-release, balanced fashion;
cultural byproducts like rice hulls and apple
an inch or so apart. Do not transplant your helping break up clay soil; aiding sandy soil
and grape pomace. Layers of black-and
seedlings until they have their second set of to retain moisture; and correcting pH prob
white newspaper are particularly good at
true leaves (the first leaves that sprout from lems. On top of that, compost is free, it can
deterring weeds. Coarse, woody mulches,
a seed are called seed leaves and usually be made at home, and it is an excellent way
look different from the later true leaves). If to recycle yard and kitchen wastes. Compost
the seedlings are tender, wait until all dan can be used as a soil additive or a mulch.
ger of frost is past before you set them out. There need be no great mystique about
In fact, don't put out heat-loving melons composting. To create the environment
and peppers until the weather is thorough needed by the decay-causing microorgan
ly warmed up and stable. Young plants isms that do all the work, just include the
started indoors should be hardened off following four ingredients, mixed well: 3 or
before they are planted in the garden-that 4 parts brown material high in carbon, such
is, they should be put outside in a sheltered as dry leaves, dry grass, and even shredded
place for a few days in their containers to black-and-white newspaper; one part green
let them get used to the differences in tern material high in nitrogen, such as fresh
perature, humidity, and air movement out- Mulch using black plastic grass clippings, fresh garden trimmings,
92
p I ant n g an d m ainte n an c e
93
appe ndix A
shrubs and trees planted in a row, and '/, weeds. Finally, they have the potential to knowledgeable gardeners not only rotate
!
inch tubing that can be snaked around beds waste a lot less water. their beds with vegetables from different
of small plants. Neither are pressure com families, they also include an occasional
pensated, which means the plants nearest
Weeding cover crop of clover or alfalfa (or other
the source of water get more water than legume) and other soil benefactors, such as
those at the end of the line. It also means Weeding is needed to make sure unwanted buckwheat. After growing for a few
they do not work well if there is any slope. plants don't compete with and overpower months, these crops are turned under, pro
All types of drip emitter and ooze sys your vegetables and herbs. A small triangu viding organic matter and many nutrients.
tems are installed after the plants or seeds lar hoe will help you weed a small garden Some cover crops (like rye) are grown over
are in the ground and are held in place with if you start when the weeds are young and the winter to control soil erosion. The
ground staples. To install any such system, easily hoed. If you allow the weeds to get seeds of all sorts of cover crops are avail
you must also install an antisiphon valve at large, a session of hand pulling is needed. able from farm suppliers and specialty seed
the water source to prevent dirty garden Be cautious, as many plants are shallow compames.
water from being drawn up into the house's rooted. Applying a mulch is a great way to The following is a short list of related
drinking water. Further, a filter is needed to cut down on weeds; however, if you have a vegetables and herbs. The plants listed for
prevent debris from clogging the emitters. big problem with slugs in your garden, the each family are not comprehensive; they re r
To set up the system, l-inch distribution mulch gives them more places to hide. examples of the plants in that family.
tubing is connected to the water source and Another means of controlling weeds, espe
laid out around the perimeter of the garden. cially annual weeds like crabgrass and pig Apiaceae (parsley and carrot family)
Then smaller-diameter drip and ooze lines weed, is a new organic preemergence her includes carrots, celeriac, celery, chervil,
are connected to this. As you can see, bicide made from corn gluten called coriander (cilantro), dill, fennel, lovage,
installing these systems requires some Concern Weed Prevention Plus. This parsley, parsnips
thought and time. gluten meal inhibits the tiny feeder roots of
Asteraceae (sunflower and daisy family,
You can order these systems from spe germinating weed seeds so they wither and
also called composites)-includes arti
cialty mail-order garden and irrigation die. It does not kill existing weeds.
chokes, calendulas, celtuce, chicories, dande
sources or by visiting your local plumbing Obviously, if you use it among new
lions, endives, lettuces, marigolds, tarragon
supply store. I find the latter to be the best seedlings or in seed beds, it kills the vegeta
solution for all my irr igat ion problems. bles too, so it is only useful in areas away Brassicaceae (mustard and cabbage fami
Over the years, I've found that plumbing from very young plants. ly)-includes arugula, broccoli, cabbages,
supply stores offer professional-quality sup cauliflower, collards, cresses, kale, kohlrabi,
plies, usually for less money than the so komatsuna, mizuna, mustards, radishes,
called inexpensive kits available in home
Crop Rotation turnips
supply stores and some nurseries. In addi Rotating crops in an edible garden has been
Chenopodiaceae (goosefoot family)
tion to excellent materials, the professionals practiced for centuries. The object is to
includes beets, chard, orach, spinach
there help you to lay out an irrigation avoid growing members of the same family
design tailored to your garden. Whether in the same spot year after year, as plants in Cucurbitaceae (cucumber or gourd
you choose an emitter or an ooze system, the same family are often prone to the same family)-includes cucumbers, gourds,
when you go to buy your tubing, be pre diseases and pests and deplete the same melons, summer squash, winter squash,
pared by bringing a rough drawing of the nutrients. For example, peppers should not pumpkins
area to be irrigated-with dimensions, the follow eggplants or tomatoes, as all are
Fabaceae (pea family, also called
location of the water source and any slopes, Solanaceae-family plants and all are prone
legumes)-includes beans, cowpeas, fava
and, if possible, the water pressure at your to fusarium wilt. On the other hand, in
beans, lima beans, peanuts, peas, runner
water source. Let the professionals walk southeastern gardens, quick-growing cab
beans, soybeans, sugar peas
you through the steps and help pick out bage-family plants, such as mustard, make
supplies that best fit your site. a great crop to rotate with peppers as they Lamiaceae (mint family)-includes basil,
Problems aside, all forms of drip and discourage the root knot nematodes to mints, oregano, rosemary, sages, summer
ooze irrigation are more efficient than fur which many peppers are susceptible. savory, thymes
row or standard overhead watering with Crop rotation is also practiced to help
Liliaceae (lily family)-includes aspara
respect to delivering water to its precise des maintain the soil nutrient level. The pea
gus, chives, garlic, leeks, onions, Oriental
tination; they are well worth considering. family (legumes), which includes not only
chives, shallots
They deliver water slowly, so it doesn't run peas and beans but also clovers and alfalfa,
off. They also water deeply, which encour adds nitrogen to the soil. In contrast, most Solanaceae (nightshade and tomato fam
ages deep rooting. They also eliminate members of the cabbage, cucumber, and ily)-includes eggplants, peppers, potatoes,
many disease problems, and because so little tomato families deplete the soil of nitrogen. tomatillos, tomatoes
of the soil surface is moist, there are fewer Because most vegetables deplete the soil,
94
plantin g an d m aintan e n c e
mates. They cut down on I 0 percent of the needed to produce squash and cucumbers.
7°F, which can help to protect plants from row covers are apt to be blown away or
95
he following sections cover a large
Beneficial Insects
appendix B T number of pests and diseases. An indi
vidual gardener, however, will In a nutshell, few insects are potential
problems; most are either neutral or benefi
encounter few such problems in a lifetime
pest and
of gardening. Good garden planning, good cial to the gardener. Given the chance, the
hygiene, and an awareness of major symp beneficial insects do much of your insect
toms will keep problems to a minimum and control for you, provided that you don't use
give you many hours to enjoy your garden pesticides, which are apt to kill them as
control
list of critters and diseases, followed by the eat aphids that might be attracted to your
newest and best chemical to control them. Chinese cabbage. Or say a mini-wasp para
But times have changed, and we now know sitoid lays eggs in the aphids. If you spray
that chasing the latest chemical to fortify those aphids, even with a so-called benign
pesticide such as insecticidal soap or
our arsenal is a bit like chasing our tail. 1
That's because most pesticides, both insecti pyrethrum, you'll kill off those ladybugs
cides and fungicides, kill beneficial insects and lacewings and that baby parasitoid
as well as the pests; therefore, the more we wasp too. Most insecticides are broad spec
spray, the more we are forced to spray. trum, which means that they kill insects
Nowadays, we've learned that successful indiscriminately, not just the pests. In my
pest control focuses on prevention, plus opinion, organic gardeners who regularly
beefing up the natural ecosystem so benefi use organic broad-spectrum insecticides
cial insects are on pest patrol. How does have missed this point. While it is true they
that translate to pest control for the veg are using an "organic" pesticide, they may
etable garden directly? actually be eliminating a truly organic
means of control, the beneficial insects.
l. When possible, seek varieties resistant to
Unfortunately, many gardeners are not
pests and diseases.
aware of the benefits of the predator-prey
relationship and are not able to recognize
2. Use mechanical means to prevent insect
beneficial insects. The following sections
pests from damaging plants. For example,
will help you to identify both helpful and
cover young cabbage-family plants with
pest organisms. A more detailed aid for
floating row covers to keep away flea bee
identifying insects is Rodale's Color
tles and imported cabbageworm; sprinkle
wood ashes around plants to prevent cab Handbook of Garden Insects, by Anna Carr.
A hand lens is an invaluable and inexpen
bage root maggot and slug damage; and put
sive tool that will also help you to identify
cardboard collars around young pepper,
the insects in your garden.
cabbage, and cucumber seedlings to prevent
cutworms from destroying them.
96
p e s t a n d dis e a s e c o ntr ol
kill an entire caterpillar. Though nearly pollen. Nectar is the primary food of the are fierce predators of aphids, mites, and
invisible to most gardeners, parasitoids are adult stage and some larval stages of many whiteflies-all occasional pests that suck
the most specific and effective means of beneficial insects. Interplanting your vegeta plant sap. If you are having problems with
insect control. bles with flowers and numerous herbs helps sucking insects in your garden, consider
The predator-prey relationship can be a to attract them. Ornamentals, like species purchasing lacewing eggs or larvae by mail
fairly stable situation; when the natural sys zinnias, marigolds, alyssum, and yarrow, order to jump-start your lacewing popula
tem is working properly, pest insects inhab provide many flowers over a long season tion. Remember to plant lots of nectar
iting the garden along with the predators and are shallow enough for insects to reach plants to keep the population going from
and parasitoids seldom become a problem. the nectar. Large, dense flowers like tea year to year.
Sometimes, though, the system breaks roses and dahlias are useless, as their nectar Lady beetles (ladybugs) are the best
down. For example, a number of imported is out of reach. A number of the herbs are known of the beneficial garden insects.
pests have taken hold in this country and rich nectar sources, including fennel, dill, Actually, there are about
unfortunately, when they were brought anise, chervil, oregano, thyme, and parsley. 400 species of lady
here, their natural predators did not Allowing a few of your vegetables, like car beetles in North
accompany them. Four pesky examples are rots, coriander, and mustards, go to flower America alone.
Japanese beetles, the European brown snail, is helpful because their tiny flowers, full of They come in a
the white cabbage butterfly, and flea bee nectar and pollen, are just what many of the variety of colors
tles. None of thesi: organisms has natural beneficial insects need. and markings in
enemies in this country that provide suffi Following are a few of the predatory addition to the famil
cient controls. Where they occur, it is some and parasitoid insects helpful in·the garden. iar red with black
times necessary to use physical means or Their preservation and protection should be spots, but they are never
selective pesticides that kill only the prob a major goal of your pest-control strategy. green. Lady beetles and their
lem insect. Ground beetles and their larvae are all fierce-looking alligator-shaped larvae eat
Weather extremes sometime produce predators. Most adult copious amounts of aphids and other small
imbalances as well. For example, long ground beetles are fairly insects.
stretches of hot, dry weather favor large black beetles that Spiders are close relatives of insects.
grasshoppers that invade vegetable gardens, scurry out from There are hundreds of species, and they are
because the diseases that keep them in under plants and some of the most effective predators of a
check are more prevalent under moist con containers when great range of pest insects.
ditions. Predator-prey relationships also get you disturb Syrphid flies (also called flowerflies and
out of balance because gardening practices them. Their hover flies) look like very small
often inadvertently work in favor of the favorite foods are bees hovering over flowers,
pests. When gardeners spray with broad soft-bodied larvae but they have only two
spectrum pesticides regularly, for example, like cutworms and wings. Many have yel
not all the insects in the garden are root maggots (root maggots low and black stripes
killed-and as predators and parasitoids eat cabbage-family plants); some ground on their body. Their
generally reproduce more slowly than do beetles even eat snails and slugs. If supplied larvae are small green
the pests, regular spraying usually tips the with an undisturbed place to live, like your maggots that inhabit
balance in favor of the pests. Further, all compost area or groupings of perennial leaves and eat
too often the average yard has few plants plantings, ground beetles will be consistent aphids, other small
that produce nectar for beneficial insects; residents of your garden. sucking insects, and mites.
instead it is filled with grass and shrubs, so Lacewings are one of the most effective Wasps comprise a large family of insects
that when a few vegetables are put in, the insect predators in the home garden. They with transparent wings. Unfortunately, the
new plants attract the aphids but not the are small green or brown gos few large wasps that sting have given wasps
beneficials. Being aware of the effect of samer-winged insects a bad name. In fact, all wasps are either
these practices will help you to create a veg that, in their insect predators or parasitoids. The mini
etable garden that is relatively free of many adult stage, eat wasps are usually parasitoids, and the adult
pest problems. flower nectar, female lays her eggs in such insects as
pollen, aphid hon aphids, whitefly larvae, and caterpillars
eydew, and some and the developing wasp larvae devour the
Attracting Beneficial Insects times aphids and host. These miniature wasps are also avail
Besides reducing your use of pesticides, the mealybugs. In the able for purchase from insectaries and are
key to keeping a healthy balance in your larval stage, they look especially effective when released in green
garden is providing a diversity of plants, like little tan alligators. houses.
including plenty that produce nectar and Called aphid lions, the larvae
97
appe n dix B
bles. The adults devour members of the pest beetles if applied during the beetles'
Pests
cucumber family, corn tassels, beans, and soil-dwelling larval stage. Colorado potatb
The following pests are sometimes a prob some salad greens. Flea beetles are minus beetles can also be controlled, when very
lem in the vegetable garden. cule black-and-white striped beetles hardly young, by applications of Bacillus
Aphids are soft-bodied, small green, big enough to be seen. The grubs feed on thuringiensis var. san diego, a beetle Bt that
black, pink, or gray insects that produce the roots and lower leaves of many vegeta has proven effective for flea beetles, as
many generations in one season. They suck bles, and the adults chew on the leaves of well. Azadirachtin (the active ingredient in
plant juices and exude honeydew. eggplants, radishes, peppers, and other some formulations of neem) is also effec
Sometimes leaves under plants, causing the leaves to look shot full of tive against the immature stage of most
the aphids turn black tiny holes. The adult click beetle is rarely beetles and can act as a feeding deterrent
from a mold grow seen, and its young, brown, l'h-inch-long for adults. Japanese beetle populations can
ing on the nutri shiny larva called a wireworm, works also be reduced by applications of milky
ent-rich honey- underground and damages tubers, seeds, spore, a naturally occurring soil-borne dis
dew. Aphids are and roots. Colorado potato beetles are larger ease that infects the beetle in its grub
..;:-; ·<'· ·"!
particularly and rounder than lady beetles and have red stage-though the disease is slow to work.
attracted to cab
0!!#/i)/);i brown heads and black and yellow striped The grubs primarily feed in lawns; the 1
bage-family backs. Adults and larvae eat the leaves of application of lime, if your lawn is acidi�, is
plants, beans, and eggplants and peppers as well as other reported to help control grubs, too.
peas. Aphid populations can build up, espe plants in the Solanaceae family, so crop Caterpillars (sometimes called loopers
cially in the spring, before beneficial insects rotation with another plant family is essen and worms) are the immature stage of
are present in large numbers and when tial if these beetles are a problem in your moths and butterflies. Most pose no prob
plants are covered by row covers or are area. Japanese beetles are fairly large metal lem in our gardens and we encourage them
growing in cold frames. The presence of lic blue or green beetles with coppery to visit, but a few are a problem in the veg
aphids sometimes indicates that the plant is wings. The larval stage (a white grub) lives etable garden. Among the most notorious
under stress-perhaps the cabbage isn't on the roots of grasses, and the adult skele are the beanloopers, cutworms, and the
getting enough water and sunlight. Check tonizes leaves and chews flowers and buds numerous cabbage worms and loopers that
first to see if stress is a problem and then of beans and many other plants. chew ragged holes in leaves. Natural con
try to correct it. Look also for aphid mum The larger beetles, if not in great num trols include birds, wasps, and disease.
mies and other natural enemies mentioned bers, can be controlled by hand picking-in Encourage birds by providing a birdbath,
previously. Mummies are swollen brown or the morning is best, when the beetles are shelter, and berry-producing shrubs.
metallic-looking aphids. Inside the slower. Knock them into a bowl or bucket Tolerate wasp nests, if they're not a threat,
mummy, a wasp parasitoid is growing. of soapy water. Flea beetles are too small to and provide nectar plants for the mini
They are valuable, so keep them. To gather by hand; try a handheld vacuum wasps. Hand picking is very effective as
remove aphids generally, wash the foliage instead. Insecticidal soap on the underside well. The disease Bacillus thuringiensis var.
with a strong blast of water and cut back of the leaves is also effective on flea beetles. kurstaki is available as a spray in a number
the foliage if the aphids persist. Fertilize Wireworms can be trapped by putting cut of formulations. Brands include Bt kursta
and water the plant and check on it in a pieces of potato or carrot every 5 feet or so ki, Dipel, and Thuricide. It is a bacteria
few days. Repeat with the water spray a in the soil and then digging them up after a that, if applied when the caterpillar is fairly
few more times. In extreme situations, few days. Destroy the worms. young, causes it to starve to death. Bt-k Bait
spray with insecticidal soap or a neem Because many beetle species winter over contains the disease and lures budworms
product. in the soil, crop rotation and fall cleanup is away from vegetables and to it. I seldom use
A number of beetles are garden pests. vital. Polyester row covers securely fastened Bt in any form, as it also kills all butterfly
They include Mexican bean beetles, cucum to the ground can provide excellent control and harmless moth larvae.
ber beetles, flea beetles, and wireworms (the for most beetles, if used in combination Cutworms are the caterpillar stage of
larvae of click beetles). All are a problem with crop rotation. Obviously, row covers various moth species. They are usually
throughout most of North America. are of no use if the beetles are in a larval found in the soil and curl up into a ball
Colorado potato beetles and Japanese bee stage and ready to emerge from the soil when disturbed. Cutworms are a particular
tles are primarily a problem in the eastern under the row cover or if the adults are problem on annual vegetables when the
United States. Mexican bean beetles look already established on the plant. Row covers seedlings first appear and when young
like brown lady beetles with oval black also have limited use on plants (such as transplants are set out. The cutworm often
spots; as their name implies, they feed on cucumbers and winter melons) that need chews off the stem right at the soil line,
beans. Cucumber beetles are ladybuglike bees to pollinate the blooms, as bees also are killing the plant. Control cutworms by
green or yellow green beetles with either excluded. using cardboard collars or bottomless tin
black stripes or black spots. Their larvae New evidence indicates that beneficial cans around the plant stem; be sure to sink
feed on the roots of corn and other vegeta- nematodes are effective in controlling most these collars I inch into the ground. Bacillus
98
p e s t a n d dis e a s e c o ntr ol
thuringiensis gives limited control. small swellings or lesions on the roots. limited. In the garden, Encarsia wasps and
Trichogramma mini-wasps and black Rotate annual vegetables with less sus other parasitoids usually provide adequate
ground beetles are among cutworms' natural ceptible varieties; plant contaminated beds whitefly control. Occasionally, especially in
enemies, but they are often not present in a with a blanket of marigolds for a whole sea cool weather or in greenhouses, whitefly
new garden. son; keep your soil high in organic matter populations may begin to cause serious
Leaf miners tunnel through leaves, dis (to encourage fungi and predatory nema plant damage (wilting and slowed growth
figuring them by causing patches of dead todes, both of which act as biological con or flowering). Look under the leaves to
tissue where they feed; they do not burrow trols); or, if all else fails, grow edibles in determine whether the scalelike immobile
into the roots. Leaf miners are the larvae of containers with sterilized soil. larvae, the young crawling stage, or the
a small fly and can be controlled somewhat Snails and slugs are not insects, of pupae are present in large numbers. If so,
by neem or by applying beneficial nema course, but mollusks. They are especially wash them off with water from your hose.
todes. fond of greens and seedlings of most veg Repeat the washing 3 days in a row. In
Mites are among the few arachnids (spi etables. They feed at night and can go dor addition, try vacuuming the adults with a
ders and their kin) that pose a problem. mant for months in times of stress. In the handheld vacuum early in the day while the
Mites are so small that absence of effective natural enemies (a few weather is still cool and they are less active.
a hand lens is usu- snail eggs are consumed by predatory bee Insecticidal soap sprays can be quite effec
ally needed to see tles and earwigs), several snail-control tive as well.
them. They strategies can be recommended. As snails
become a prob and slugs are most active after rain or irri
lem when they gation, go out and destroy them on such
Wildlife Problems
reproduce in nights. Only repeated forays provide ade
great numbers. quate control. Hardwood ashes dusted Rabbits and mice can cause problems for
A symptom of around susceptible plants gives some con gardeners. To keep them out, use fine
serious mite trol. Planter boxes with a strip of copper weave fencing around the vegetable garden.
damage is stippling on applied along the top perimeter boards If gophers or moles are a problem, plant
the leaves in the form of tiny white or yel effectively keep slugs and snails out; they large vegetables such as peppers in chicken
low spots, sometimes accompanied by tiny won't cross the barrier. A word of warning: wire baskets in the ground. Make the wire
webs. The major natural predators of pest Overhanging leaves that can provide a stick up I foot from the ground so the crit
mites are predatory mites, mite-eating bridge into the bed will defeat the barrier. ters can't reach inside. In severe situations,
thrips, and syrphid flies. Two new organic slug and snail baits, you might have to line whole beds with
Mites are most likely to thrive on dusty Sluggo and Escar-Go!, show promise. They chicken wire. Gophers usually need to be
leaves and in warm weather. A routine are chelated iron in bait form, which cause trapped. Trapping for moles is less success
foliage wash and misting of sensitive veg the snails and slugs that consume the bait to ful, but repellents like MoleMed sometimes
etables helps control mites. Mites are sel stop eating and eventually die. There is help. Cats help with all rodent problems but
dom a serious problem unless heavy-duty some question as to whether the iron will seldom provide adequate control. Small,
pesticides that kill off predatory mites are build up in the soil and be a problem. As portable electric fences help keep raccoons,
used or plants are grown in the house. Cut with any bait or pesticide, it is best not to squirrels, and woodchucks out of the gac
back the plants and, if you're using heavy use these regularly or as your only control. den. Small-diameter wire mesh, bent into
duty pesticides, stop the applications, and Thrips are tiny, hard-to-see, torpedo boxes and anchored with ground staples,
the balance could return. If all else fails, use shaped insects that can be a problem on protects seedlings from squirrels and chip
the neem derivative Green Light Fruit, many plants, including peas and onions. munks.
Nut, and Vegetable Spray or dispose of the The damage they do can be quite notice Deer are a serious problem-they love
plant. able. Leaf-feeding thrips leave a silvery vegetables. I've tried myriad repellents, but
Nematodes are microscopic round sheen and flecks of discoloration on the leaf they gave only short-term control. In some
worms that inhabit the soil in most of the surface. To control, keep plants adequately areas, deer cause such severe problems that
United States, particularly in the Southeast. watered, as the predators of thrips live in edible plants can't be grown without tall
Most nematode species live on decaying the moist soil around the plants. If neces electric or 9-foot fences and an aggressive
matter or are predatory on other nema sary, spot-treat infected plants with insecti dog. The exception is herbs; deer don't feed
todes, insects, or bacteria. A few types are cidal soap. on most culinary herbs.
parasitic, attaching themselves to the roots Whiteflies are sometimes a problem in Songbirds, starlings, and crows can be
of plants. Edible plants particularly suscep mild-winter areas of the country as well as major pests of young seedlings, particularly
tible to nematode damage include beans, in greenhouses nationwide, especially on corn and peas. Cover the emerging plants
melons, peppers, eggplants, and some eggplants and cucumbers. Whiteflies can be with bird netting and firmly anchor it to
perennial herbs. The symptoms of nema a persistent problem if plants are against a the ground so birds can't get under it and
tode damage are stunted-looking plants and building or fence, where air circulation is feast.
99
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100
p e s t a n d d s e a s e c o n t r o I
Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus plants but is not a problem because they are a problem in the Northeast. Root and
most prevalent in the warm parts of the usually through producing. crown rots are most often caused by poor
country. It causes an overall wilting of the Lightweight summer horticultural oil drainage. There is no cure for root and
plant visible as the leaves from the base of combined with baking soda has proved crown rots once they involve the whole
the plant upward yellow and die. The effective against powdery mildew on some plant. Remove and destroy the plants and
plants most susceptible to strains of the dis plants in research at Cornell University. correct the drainage problem.
ease include peppers, cucumber, squash, Combine 1 tablespoon of baking soda and Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungus
melons, peas, and basil. While a serious 2'h teaspoons of summer oil with 1 gallon of that can be a problem in most of North
problem in some areas, this disease can be water. Spray weekly. Test on a small part of America, especially the cooler sections.
controlled by planting only resistant vari the plant first. Don't use horticultural oil on The symptom of this disease is a sudden
eties. Crop rotation is also helpful. very hot days or on plants that are moisture wilting of one part or all of the plant. If
Mildews are fungal diseases that affect stressed; after applying the oil, wait at least you continually lose tomatoes or eggplants,
some vegetables-particularly peas, 1 month before using any sulfur sprays on this, or one of the other wilts, could be the
spinach, and squash-under certain condi the same plant. problem. There is no cure, so plant resis
tions. There are two types of mildews: A tea for combating powdery mildew tant species or varieties if this disease is in
powdery and downy. Powdery mildew and, possibly, other disease-causing fungi your soil.
appears as a white powdery dust on the can be made by wrapping 1 gallon of well Viruses attack a number of plants.
surface; downy mifdew makes velvety or aged, manure-based compost in burlap and Symptoms are stunted growth and
fuzzy white, yellow, or purple patches on steeping it in a 5-gallon bucket of water for deformed or mottled leaves. The mosaic
leaves, buds, and tender stems. The poorer about 3 days in a warm place. Spray every 3 viruses destroy chlorophyll in the leaves,
the air circulation and more humid the to 4 days, in the evening if possible, until causing them to become yellow and
weather, the more apt your plants are to symptoms disappear. blotched in a mosaic pattern. There is no
have downy mildew. Root rots and crown rots are caused by a cure for viral conditions, so the affected
For both mildews, make sure the plants number of fungi. The classic symptom of plants must be destroyed. Cucumbers and
have plenty of sun and are not crowded by root rot is wilting-even when a plant is beans are particularly susceptible. In the
other vegetation. If you must use overhead well watered. Sometimes one side of the Northwest, pea enation mosiac virus is a
watering, do it in the morning. In some plant wilts, but more often the whole plant problem. Viral diseases can be transmitted
cases, powdery mildew can be washed off wilts. Affected plants are often stunted and by aphids and leaf hoppers, and by seeds, so
the plant. Do so early in the day, so that the yellow as well. The diagnosis is complete seed savers should be extra careful to learn
plant has time to dry before evening. when the dead plant is pulled up to reveal the symptoms in individual plant species.
Powdery mildew is almost always present at rotten, black roots. Crown rot is a fungus When available, use resistant varieties.
the end of the season on squash and pea that kills plants at the crown and is primarily
101
Seeds and Plants Johnny's Selected Seeds
Evergreen Y. H. Enterprises
Richters Herbs
P.O. Box 17538
357 Highway 47
Anaheim, CA 92817
Goodwood, Ontario
$2.00 for catalog in USA, $2.50 in Canada; Canada LOC lAO
most extensive mail-order selection of Asian
Extensive selection of herb seeds and plants
vegetables and herbs
including most of the unusual Southeast Asian
ones
Garden City Seeds
778 Highway 93 North
Pacific Tree Farms
Hamilton, MT 59840
4301 Lynwood Drive
Carries varieties for short seasons and cold eli
Chula Vista, CA 91910
mates.
$2.00 for catalog; ships live trees and other
plants, including Kaffir lime and beecheyana
J. L. Hudson, Seedsman
bamboo
Star Route 2, Box 337
La Honda, CA 94020
Seeds of Change
For catalog: P.O. Box 1058, Redwood City,
P.O. Box 15700
CA 94064
Santa Fe, NM 87506-5700
$1.00 for catalog; wide selection of seeds,
Organically grown vegetable and herb seeds
including many hard-to-find varieties
102
r e s o u r c e s
Seeds Trust High Altitude Gardens Willhite Seed Company Inc. T he Oriental Pantry
P.O. 1048 P.O. Box 23 423 Great Road
Hailey, ID 83333 Poolville, TX 76487 Acton, MA 01720
Specializes in open-pollinated, short-season Specialzzes in warm weather crops, including www.orientalpantry.com
vegetables and native wildflowers East Indian vegetables Asian groceries and cooking supplies
Stokes Seeds, Inc. one near you, Anzen Importers will most
Buffalo, NY 14240
Vegetable, herb, and flower seeds, including a Anzen Importers
very good offering of Asian vegetables 736 Martin Luther King Boulevard
Portland, OR 97232
Territorial Seed Company Many Japanese, Chinese, and Thai dried and
P.O. Box 157 canned ingredients
Cottage Grove, OR 97424-0061
Good selection of open-pollinated varieties Gardener's Supply Company
128 Intervale Road
2460 North Euclid Avenue Large selection of all sorts of dried herbs and
Upland, CA 91874 spices, including many Asian varieties
Water gardening supplies; carries water chest
nut plants; ships in spring and summer only Sur Ia Table
Catalog Division
103
r e s o u r c e s
Annotated Bibliography Dahlen, Martha. ACook's Guide toChinese Konishi, Kiyoko. JapaneseCooking for
1
Vegetables. Hong Kong: Guidebook Health and Fitness. Tokyo: Gakken
Alford, Jeffrey, and Naomi Duguid.
Company Ltd, 1995. Company Ltd., 1983.
Seductions of Rice: ACookbook. New
This little boofv with its watercolor A valuable primer on Japanese cooking;
York: Artisan, 1998.
illustrations, is invaluable for sorting includes many recipes for vegetables.
An Incredibly good book on rice, filled
out Asian vegetables. Kushi, Aveline.Complete Guide to
with history and great recipes.
Emmons, Didi. Vegetarian Planet. Boston: Macrobiotic Cooking. New York:
Andoh, Elizabeth. At Home with Japanese
Harvard Common Press, 1997. Warner Books, 1985.
Cooking. New York: Knopf, 1980.
A basic vegetarian cookbook with a A primer for vegetarian cooking using
This detailed primer on Japanese cook
number of healthy Asian dishes. on many Japanese foods.
ing contains numerous recipes, both
Farrelly, David. The Book of Bamboo. San Larkcom, Joy. Oriental Vegetables: The
simple and complex.
Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1984. Complete Guide for Garden and
Brennan, Jennifer. The Original Thai
All you could ever want to know about Kitchen. Tokyo: Kodansha
Cookbook. New York: Berkeley
bamboo. International, 1991.
Publishing Group, 1981.
Gilkeson, Linda, Pam Peirce, and Miranda The definitive book on growing Asian
Authentic Thai recipes.
I
Smith. Rodale's Pest and Disease vegetables, a must-have.
Bubel, Nancy. The New Seed-Starters
Problem Solver: AChemical-Free Liley, Vicki. Wok. Singapore: Periplus
Handbook. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale
Guide to Keeping Your Garden Editions, 1998.
Press, I 988.
Healthy. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, Lots of ideas for cooking stir-fi'ies.
A must for gardeners Interested in start
1996. Nix, Janeth Johnson. Adventures In Oriental
Ing their own seeds.
Good color photographs of beneficial Cooking. San Francisco: Ortho Books,
Carr, Anna. Rodale'sColor Handbook of
and pest insects along with lots of sensi 1976.
Garden Insects. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale
ble advice. Here's a fine how-to book for beginners
Press, I 979.
Harrington, Geri. Grow Your OwnChinese and experienced cooks alike on using
A valuable resource with color pho
Vegetables. Pownal, Vt.: Garden Way Asian vegetables.
tographs to help gardeners identify ben
Publishing, 1984. Olkowski, William, Sheila Daar, and Helga
eficial and pest Insects.
Great information on thirty-eight Asian Olkowski.
The Gardener's Guide to
Chan, Peter. Better Vegetable Gardens the
vegetables. Common-Sense PestControl.
Chinese Way: PeterChan's Raised-Bed
Hom, Ken, and Harvey Steiman.Chinese Newtown, Conn.: Taunton Press,
System. Rev. ed. Pownal, Vt.: Garden
Technique: An Illustrated Guide to the 1995.
Way Publishing, 1985.
Fundamental Techniques ofChinese Thoroughly researched information on
This charming book outlines In detail
Cooking. New York: Simon & pest control for the home gardener.
PeterChan's productive and sod-enrich
Schuster, 1981. Passmore, Jacki. Asia: The Beautiful
ing garden techniques.
If you want to carve vegetables or make Cookbook. Los Angeles: Knapp Press,
Chen, Joyce. The JoyceChenCook Book.
wantons or dozens of otherChinese 1987.
Boston: Joyce Chen Specialty Foods
dishes, here Is the place to look for Lots of recipes and cultural informa
Co., 1983.
detailed instruction. tion.
Choi, Trieu T hi. The Food of VIetnam.
Hutton, Wendy. The Food of India. ---. TheCompleteChineseCookbook.
Singapore: Periplus, 1997.
Singapore: Periplus Editions, 1998. Boston: Charles E. Tuttle Company,
Many recipes fi"om VIetnam.
Many recipes fi"om India. 1998.
Choudhury, B. Dr. Vegetables. New Delhi:
. The Food of Indonesia. Singapore: A great overview ofChinese cooking
National Book Trust, India, 1979.
---
104
r e s o u r c e s
Many healthy and interesting salad recipes, both authentic and adapted to
ideas. Western ingredients.
Solomon, Charmaine. Charmaine Solomon's T suji, Shizuo. Practical Japanese Cooking.
Encyclopedia of Asian Foods. Boston: Tokyo: Kodansha International,
Periplus Editions Ltd., 1996. 1986.
A must-have for Asian cooking. Many basic Japanese recipes.
--- . The Complete Asian Cookbook. Van, Paulette Do. Vietnamese Cooking.
Rutland, Vt: Charles E. Tuttle Secaucus, N.J.: Chartwell Books,
Company, 1995. 1993.
A helpful compendium of Asian recipes. A good overall look at Vietnamese cook
Takahashi, Kuwako. The Joy of Japanese ing, though short on vegetables and
Cooking. Tokyo: Shufunotomo Co., herbs.
Ltd., 1986. Yamagushi, Eri. The Well-Flavored
Lots of basic information on ingredients Vegetable. Tokyo: Kodansha
and Japanese specialties. International, 1988.
Tindall, H. D. Vegetables in the Tropics. Traditional and new vegetable recipes
London: MacMillan Press Ltd., 1983. from Japan.
How to grow many vegetables under
warm conditions.
Other Resources
spices, including many Asian varieties
Tropp, Barbara. The Modern Art of Chinese American Horticulture Society. "T he Heat
Cooking. New York: Morrow, 1982. Map." 1-800-777-7931, Extension 45.
This boof?c a compendium of informa Cost: $15.00.
tion on Chinese food, is most valuable
for Western cooks. Numerous reliable
105
acknow edgments
joins me on our constant search for the ful to Arvind and Bhadra Fancy, Helen
M
y garden is the foundation for
my books, photography, and most effective organic pest controls, and Ramsay Chang, and Henry Tran
recipes. For nearly twelve superior vegetable varieties, and the and Mai Truong. Many of their favorite
months of the year we toil to keep it best sources for plants. recipes are included in the book. Ellen
beautiful and bountiful. Unlike most Gardeners are by nature most gener Brandon, an Asian scholar and devotee
gardens, as it is a photo studio and trial ous. I want to thank Carole Saville, of Japanese cooking, has bee most gen
plot, it must look glorious, be healthy, who guides me through the maze of erous with information and has shared
and produce for the kitchen all year. To Asian herbs and gives trusted input on her library.
complicate the maintenance, all the recipes. Many seeds people help me Interviews with gardener Peter
beds are changed every spring and fall. amass variety and growing information Chan and chef Ken Hom were of great
Needless to say, this is a large undertak from all over the county. I particularly value, as were conversations and a tour
ing. For two decades, a quartet of tal want to thank Renee Shepherd of of Chinese markets with chef Barbara
ented organic gardener-cooks have not Shepherd's Garden Seeds and Rose Tropp. Being able to share garden expe
only given it hundreds of hours of lov Marie Nichols McGee of Nichols riences with David Cunningham in his
ing attention but also been generous Garden Nursery. Vermont garden gave me confidence
with their vast knowledge of plants. Over the last three decades, my that Asian vegetables are oh so adapt
Together we have forged our concept of Asian education has been greatly aided able. T hese people's vast view of Asian
gardening and cooking, much of which by many friends, neighbors, and profes vegetables enriches the information
I share with you in this series of garden sionals. I fortunately live in a part of the throughout the book.
cookbooks. world richly populated with people I would also like to thank my hus
I wish to thank Wendy Krupnick for either native to Asia or who are Asian band, Robert, who gives such high-qual
giving the garden such a strong founda scholars. For years, my daily walks ity technical advice and loving support.
tion and Joe Queirolo for maintaining it were filled with stories of India and Many people were instrumental in
so beautifully for many years. For the neighbors answering questions like, bringing this book project to fruition.
last decade, Jody Main and Duncan "What's available in Taiwan?" and T hey include Jane Whitfield, Linda
Minalga have helped me expand my "Does your mother make this in Gunnarson, and David Humphrey,
garden horizons. No matter how com Vietnam?" And Asian cookbooks and who were integral to the initial vision of
plex the project, they enthusiastically rise equipment are willingly loaned. this book; Kathryn Sky-Peck, who pro
to the occasion. In the kitchen, I am Further, I get to tag along with these vided the style and quality of the layout,
most fortunate to have Gudi Ritter, a patient folks to every sort of Asian gro and Marcy Hawthorne, who made the
talented cook who sees all new recipes as cery store, with guides who not only lovely drawings. Heartfelt thanks to
a welcome challenge. I thank her for the grew up with most of the vegetables in Eric Oey and to the entire Periplus
help she provides as we create recipes question but can translate food labels staff, especially Deane Norton and Jan
and present them in all their glory. and ask detailed questions of the clerks. Johnson, for their help. Finally, I would
I thank Dayna Lane for her steady My neighbor Cheryl Chang sends seeds like to thank my editor, Jeanine Caunt,
hand and editorial assistance. In addi from Asia and reports on what's in the for her strong presence, many talents,
tion to day-to-day compilations, she markets. In particular, I am most grate- and dedication to quality.
106