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Chapter 23 - Cakes, Pastries, and

Desserts
877

Cakes, Pastries, and Desserts


Cakes, pastries, and desserts come in many different varieties. These sweet
treats can be some of the most difficult and elaborate preparations to
execute in the professional kitchen. Dessert comes from the French
word desservir, which means "to clear the table." Dessert is the last
course of a meal, and customers often relish the array of delights that
await them at the end of a good meal. It is important for a chef to be
knowledgeable about the preparation techniques involved in making
cakes, pastries, and desserts. A pastry chef specializes in these skills
and turns food into art.

Chapter Objectives:

1.   Identify common cake ingredients.

2.   Demonstrate three methods for mixing cake batter.

3.   Describe factors to consider when baking cakes.

4.   Describe common types of icings.

5.   Demonstrate the procedure for forming a paper pastry bag.

6.   Describe how to use pastry tips, fill pastry bags, and pipe icing.

7.   Describe six methods for preparing cookies.

8.   Contrast the two major types of pie dough.

9.   Use the formulas for determining baker’s percentages. Demonstrate how


to mix and handle pie dough prior to baking.

10.    Demonstrate the procedure for blind baking a pie shell.

11.    Demonstrate how to prepare a fruit filling, a cream filling, and a chiffon


filling.
12.    Describe three common types of meringue.

13.    Contrast common types of pastry.

14.    Demonstrate how to make éclair paste.

15.    Describe popular specialty desserts.

16.    Demonstrate how to prepare individual soufflés, pastry cream, and


sabayon.

Key Terms

cake flour

genoise

icing

fondant

soft cookies

crisp cookies

mealy pie dough

flaky pie dough

blind baking

meringue

phyllo dough

overrun

mouth feel

granité

parfait

bombe

coupe
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CAKES
Cakes of many different varieties can be baked using basic cake recipes and
many different variations.  Although cake mixes are available, the best
cakes are still made from scratch. A good cake recipe has a proper
balance of ingredients and has been previously tested. Most bakers have
a file of tested recipes obtained from trade publications, other bakers,
and from baking-product companies. Most cakes are easy to prepare in
quantity and can be stored successfully for fairly long periods of time.

Cake Ingredients
Common ingredients used in cakes include fat, cake flour, eggs, sugar,
baking powder, liquid (milk or water), salt, and flavorings. Quality
ingredients should be used to produce the proper taste, texture, and
volume expected of the finished product. Ingredients may have only one
function or may act in conjunction with other ingredients in the recipe to
produce the desired results.

Fat.
 Types of fat used in cake making include butter, margarine, and shortening.
When using shortening, a hydrogenated or emulsified shortening
produces the most tender baked products.Hydrogenated shortening is a
solid fat made from vegetable oils that have been hydrogenated.
Hydrogenated shortening traps and holds a greater amount of air than
other types of fat, which improves creaming qualities and tenderizes the
baked product. 879Emulsified shortening is a commercial shortening that
is made from hydrogenated vegetable oils and is used in high-ratio cakes
(cakes that contain more sugar than flour). Emulsified shortening can be
used to produce products with a long shelf life.

Cake flour.
 Cake flour is a type of flour milled from a low-protein (6% to 8%), fine-
textured wheat that is high in starch and contains very little gluten. Cake
flour produces a less dense texture than other flours and a more tender,
fine crumb. A good-quality cake flour is pure white with uniform granules
and a high absorption rate. Cake flour is bleached with chlorine gas
during processing, which results in flour that is more acidic. Acidic
environments discourage the formation of gluten, which is important
when making delicate baked goods. The acidity of the cake flour causes
cakes to set faster because the starches begin to gelatinize in the oven.
This in turn reduces baking time and results in a moister cake.

Eggs.
 Eggs are one of the most important ingredients used in making a cake, as
they add moisture and nutritive value. Both fresh and frozen eggs can be
used with good results. Frozen eggs are common in most bakeshops
because of the convenience.

Sugar.
 Sugar is best known for its use as a sweetener. It also adds tenderness and
color to baked goods through caramelization. Types of sugar commonly
used in cake production include granulated, confectioners’, and brown
sugar. Superfine sugar is a type of granulated sugar with a very fine
grain, which allows for quick dissolving and creaming.

Baking Powder.
 Baking powder is a common leavening agent used in baked goods. Double-
acting baking powder is the most common type used in the professional
kitchen. It releases leavening gases on contact with moisture and again
during the baking process.

Milk.
 Milk used in cakes may be in dry or liquid form. Dry milk should blend
quickly when mixed with water. Both types add moisture and tenderness
to the cake.

Flavorings.
 Flavorings are very important to the taste of the cake. Quality flavorings are
more expensive than imitations, but a pure flavoring yields a more
pleasing flavor than an imitation flavoring. For example, pure vanilla
extract produces a much better-tasting product than imitation vanilla.

Mixing Methods
Before mixing a cake, all of the ingredients should be at room temperature.
Each ingredient should always be weighed on a baker’s scale for
maximum accuracy.  It is important to weigh each ingredient separately
before adding it to the batter. Each step of the mixing must carefully
follow the recipe directions. The three methods of mixing cake batters are
the two-stage (blending) method, the creaming method, and the sponge
(whipping) method.

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Two-Stage Method.
 The two-stage (blending) method is the most basic mixing method and is the
simplest to execute. After being carefully weighed, the dry ingredients are
sifted together and blended with the fat and part of the liquid. In a
separate bowl, the rest of the liquid and eggs are combined. The two
mixtures are then mixed together until evenly distributed. Note:  At
intervals throughout the mixing process, the bowl must be scraped down
so all ingredients are blended and a smooth batter is obtained.

To mix cake batter using the two-stage method, apply the following
procedure:

1.   Weigh all ingredients carefully.

2.   Place all dry ingredients, fat, and part of the milk in the mixing bowl. Blend
at slow speed for the required period.

3.   In a separate bowl, blend eggs and the remaining milk.

4.   Add egg mixture to batter in thirds, mixing well after each addition to
ensure a smooth, uniform batter.

Creaming Method.
 The creaming method involves mixing the fat, sugar, salt, and spices
together to a creamy consistency before any other ingredients are added.
Then the eggs are added and blended well, before the wet ingredients
are added. The flavorings are added last. There are some variations to
this method of mixing, and it is important to follow the mixing instructions
of each recipe carefully. Note:  At intervals throughout the mixing process,
the bowl must be scraped down so all ingredients are blended and a
smooth batter is obtained.
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When folding in whipped products such as egg whites, meringues, or


whipped cream, it is important to first "temper" the mixture with a small
amount of the whipped ingredient. This is done by completely folding in
1/3 of the whipped component into the base to start. After it is completely
incorporated, fold in another third of the whipped component, taking care
to not overwork or deflate the air that has been incorporated. After the
second portion is incorporated, the final third can be added. Using a
circular folding motion, gently incorporate the third portion.

To mix cake batter using the creaming method, apply the following
procedure:

1.   In a stainless-steel mixing bowl, cream the sugar, fat, salt, and spices. 
During the mixing, small air cells are formed and incorporated into the
mix. The volume increases and the mix becomes softer in consistency.

2.   Add the eggs one at a time while continuing to mix at slow speed. At this
stage, the eggs coat the air cells formed during the creaming stage and
allow the air cells to expand and hold the liquid (when it is added) without
curdling.

3.   Add the liquid alternately with the sifted dry ingredients. Mix until a smooth
batter is formed. During this stage, the liquid and dry ingredients are
added alternately so the batter does not curdle. If all the liquid is added at
one time, the cells coated by the eggs cannot hold all the moisture and
curdling will occur.

4.   Add the flavoring and blend thoroughly.

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Sponge Method.
 The sponge (whipping) method of cake mixing produces a light, fluffy batter.
Although there are many variations of the sponge method, the most
common is referred to as a genoise. In the genoise sponge method, the
eggs and sugar are warmed and whipped to create volume and
incorporate air before any other ingredients are added. This airy whipped
yolk and sugar mixture is referred to as a foam. There are variations to
this method of mixing, so it is important to follow the recipe instructions
carefully.
To mix a cake batter using the sponge method, apply the following
procedure:

1.   Warm the eggs (whites, yolks, or whole eggs, as specified) and sugar to
between 100°F and 105°F over a hot water bath while whisking
continually.  This softens the eggs and dissolves the sugar, allowing for
quicker whipping while adding volume.

2.   Remove the mixture from the water bath and place on the mixer.

3.   Whip on medium to high speed until the mixture appears to have peaked
in volume (is no longer increasing in volume) and has developed a thick
foam. Check to ensure that the mixture is thick enough to form a ribbon
as it runs off the whip.

4.   Slowly add any liquid and flavoring required by the recipe.

5.   Gently fold in the sifted dry ingredients to ensure a smooth and uniform
batter. Care should be taken to not overmix while folding, as doing so will
deflate the batter and cause the resulting cake to be dense. Note:  If fat is
to be added, it should be done after the dry ingredients have been
properly folded in. This will maximize the volume of the final product.

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Baking Cakes
The amount of cake batter required for a cake varies depending on the type
and size of the cake. Most cake batters can be used to produce cakes in
a variety of shapes and sizes. Baking time and temperature can vary
depending on the size of the pan.

Preparing Cake Pans.


 Many cake pans are prepared by covering the bottom of the pan with
parchment paper and greasing the sides lightly with shortening or pan
grease (a mixture of one part flour to two parts shortening). A mixture of
equal parts shortening and butter can be used in the preparation of pans
to improve the flavor of the cake crust. Butter alone is not recommended
for greasing cake pans, as the butter is prone to burning and might
produce a bitter, burnt-tasting crust.
Whenever possible, cakes should be placed in the center of the oven where
the heat is evenly distributed. If a number of cakes are being baked at
one time, the pans should be placed so they do not touch one another or
any part of the oven wall. Leaving a space of approximately 2" to 3"
around each of the pans and between the pans and oven walls allows the
heat to circulate freely around each pan. The oven must be preheated to
the required temperature and checked periodically with an oven
thermometer.

Generally, the larger the cake being baked and the richer the cake batter, the
slower it should be heated. However, if the oven heat is set too low, the
cake will rise and then fall, producing in a dense, heavy texture. If the
oven heat is set too high, the outside of the cake will bake too rapidly and
form a crust, which can burst when heat reaches the center of the cake
and causes the cake to expand.

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Baking Time.
 The baking time of a cake is divided into the following four stages of
development:

Stage 1 — The cake is placed in the oven and starts to rise. At this stage,
the lowest oven temperature called for in the baking instructions should
be used to prevent overly quick browning and to keep a crust from
forming. Stage 2 — The cake continues to rise and the top surface
begins to brown. The oven door should not be opened at this stage. The
heat can be increased at this time if the recipe suggests it.

Stage 3 — The rising stops and the surface of the cake continues to
brown. The oven door can be opened if necessary, and the heat can be
reduced if the cake is browning too quickly.

Stage 4 — The cake starts to shrink, leaving the sides of the pan slightly.
At this stage, the oven door can be opened and the cake can be tested
for doneness.

Baking at High Altitudes.


 Most cake recipes are developed in low-altitude locations. The ingredients
are balanced to produce good results when the cake is baked at or near
sea level. If these recipes are used in high-altitude areas, adjustments to
the recipe are required, such as reducing the baking powder and sugar
and increasing the liquid. The exact amount of ingredients required can
be determined by experimenting with the recipe or by consulting with
baking-product manufacturers.

Testing for Doneness.


 Cakes are tested for doneness by inserting a wire tester or a toothpick into
the center of the cake. The cake is done when the tester is dry when
removed, with no batter adhering to it. Another method for testing
doneness, the touch method, is used for heavier cakes such as
fruitcakes. Using the touch method, the top surface of the cake is
pressed with a finger. If the surface feels firm and the impression of the
finger does not remain, the cake is done.

Cooling Cakes.
 When a cake is removed from the oven, it should be placed on a wire rack
or shelf so that air circulates around the pan. The cake should be allowed
to cool for a minimum of 5 min before it is removed from the pan. The
pan can then be flipped over and the cake removed from the pan. If wax
or parchment paper was used on the bottom of the pan, it is also
removed at this time. The cake is then placed back on the wire rack or
shelf and allowed to cool thoroughly.

Potential Defects. Defects that occur with baked cakes often involve the size,
color, texture, and flavor of the cake. Common defects include a cake
turning out uneven, undersized, too dark or too light in color, tough,
soggy, sticky, and too heavy or too light in texture. Many of these defects
can be easily avoided by taking steps during the preparation of the
recipe. Cakes prepared using either the two-stage or creaming methods
may require different solutions than cakes prepared using the sponge
method.

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886

ICINGS
Like cake recipes, variations of icing recipes are used to obtain different
flavors and textures. An icing  is a sugar-based coating often spread on
the outside or between layers of a baked good. Icings, also known as
frostings, have three main functions when applied to a baked product
such as a cake. They form a protective coating to seal in moisture and
flavor, they improve the taste, and 887 they add eye appeal.  There are
seven basic types of icing: buttercream, flat, foam, fudge, fondant, royal,
and glaze.

Buttercream
Buttercream is one of the most popular types of icing. It is simple to prepare,
easy to store, and adds flavor and eye appeal to a dish. Buttercream
icing is made by creaming together shortening or butter, powdered sugar,
and, in some cases, eggs. It is light and airy because lots of air cells are
trapped in the icing when mixing using the creaming method.
Buttercream icing should be stored in a cool place and covered with
plastic wrap or wax paper to avoid crusting. For best results, buttercream
icing should not be stored in the refrigerator, as refrigeration causes it to
harden. If the shortening hardens, considerable mixing is required to
return the icing to the appropriate consistency for spreading.

Flat Icing
Flat icing is the simplest icing to prepare. It is applied to sweet rolls,
doughnuts, Danish pastry, and other baked goods. Flat icing is usually
prepared by combining water, powdered sugar, corn syrup, and flavoring
and then heating the mixture to approximately 100°F. It should always be
heated in a double boiler because direct heat or overheating causes it to
lose its gloss when it cools. Flat icing should always be covered with a
damp cloth when not in use. To store, flat icing should be covered with a
thin coating of water, plastic wrap, or wax paper. Previously stored flat
icing must be heated to approximately 100°F over a water bath before
use.

Foam Icing
Foam (boiled) icing is prepared by combining sugar, glucose (sweetener),
and water, boiling the mixture to approximately 240°F, and adding the
resulting syrup to an egg white meringue while still hot. If heavy syrup is
added to the meringue, a heavy icing is produced. If thin syrup is added,
the result is a thin icing. Foam icing may be colored slightly, and must be
applied the same day it is prepared. Only the amount needed should be
prepared, as it breaks down if held overnight. This icing should be
applied in generous amounts and worked into peaks.

Fudge Icing
Fudge icing is a rich, heavy-bodied icing that is usually prepared by adding a
hot 888 liquid or syrup to the other ingredients called for in the recipe
while whipping to obtain smoothness. Fudge icing should be used warm;
if cool, it should be reheated in a double boiler before applying. Fudge
icing is generally used to ice layer cakes, loaf cakes, sheet cakes, and
cupcakes. It dries rapidly when stored. To store, fudge icing should be
covered with plastic wrap, stored in the refrigerator, and reheated over a
water bath before use.

Fondant
Fondant is a rich, white, cooked icing that hardens when exposed to the air.
It is used mainly on small cakes (petit fours) that are eaten with the
fingers. It is prepared by cooking sugar, glucose, and water to a
temperature of 240°F, letting it cool to 150°F, and then mixing it until it is
creamy and smooth. Fondant is the most difficult and time-consuming
icing to prepare; most bakers purchase a ready-made fondant or a
powdered product known as drifond®

 from a baker’s supply house. The ready-made product is usually purchased


in a 40-lb tin and stores well in a cool place covered with a damp cloth or
a small amount of water to keep it from drying out. Drifond®

 needs only water and a small amount of glucose added to produce an


excellent fondant. When using drifond®

, the amount needed can be prepared in a very short time.

When needed for use, fondant is heated to about 100°F in a double boiler
while stirring constantly. This thins the icing so that it flows freely over the
item to be covered. The secret to successfully covering an item with
fondant is the consistency of the icing. If the fondant is too heavy after it
is heated, it can be thinned down by using a glaze consisting of one part
glucose to two parts water or a regular simple syrup may be used. The
fondant can be colored and flavored as desired for use as a base for
other icings. Fondant icing, like flat icing, must be kept covered with a
very thin coating of water, plastic wrap, or wax paper in a cool place. It
can be refrigerated, but may lose some gloss when reheated in a double
boiler or over a hot water bath.

Royal Icing
Royal icing is similar to flat icing, but the addition of egg whites produces a
thicker icing that hardens to a brittle texture. Royal icing hardens when
exposed to air, so it must be kept covered with a damp towel when not in
use. It is used for making decorative flowers for cakes used in window
displays and for show work such as sugar sculptures.

Glaze
A glaze is a thin, transparent coating of icing that is usually poured over a
baked product. Most glazes are made by thinning down and heating 889
fruit purées, fruit juices, chocolate, or coffee. Apricot glaze is the most
common fruit glaze used in the professional bakeshop. It has a mild
flavor and a nice sheen. Glazes give shine to bakery products such as
coffee cakes and extend shelf life by sealing in moisture.

Icing Preparation
The best ingredients should be used when preparing icings. It is also
important to obtain the proper consistency before applying any icing. The
consistency needed depends on the intended use of the icing. In most
cases, the consistency can be controlled by adding or eliminating an
amount of powdered sugar.

Icing is often colored to attract the eye. Standard principles regarding color
used in icings include:

Colors in paste and powder forms produce better results than liquid food
colorings.

Certain colors can be blended to create other colors. For example, red
and blue create violet and blue and yellow create green.

Two or more colors can be used if desired by placing a layer of each


color of icing side by side in a pastry bag.

Pastel colors are pleasing to the eye.


Red and yellow colors create a hungry feeling.

Pastry Bags.
 A pastry bag is made of parchment paper, silicon, canvas, or plastic. Most
decorators prefer to make their own pastry bags from parchment paper.
Paper cones are simple to make, easier to handle, and a separate cone
can be made for each color of icing used. When finished decorating,
paper cones can be discarded, whereas other types of pastry bags must
be washed.

To form a paper cone pastry bag, apply the following procedure:

1.   Cut a square of parchment paper into a large triangle.

2.   With the long edge on top, start to roll the paper by turning one short edge
towards the centerline of the triangle.

3.   Continue rolling the paper into a cone shape across to the far short edge.

4.   Tuck the top corner of the far short edge into an overlapping edge of the
cone to secure. Cut off excess paper at the top of the cone.

5.   Cut off the bottom tip of the cone so a pastry tip can be inserted. Note:  If
too much paper is cut away, the resulting hole will be too large to hold the
pastry tip inside the cone.

890

Pastry Tips.
 In order to create decorative patterns and shapes with icing, a plastic or
metal pastry tip is inserted into the pastry bag before it is filled. Many
different pastry tips are used to make various designs.  For example, a
round pastry tip is used for writing.

Filling Pastry Bags.


 To fill a pastry bag with icing, hold the bag in the left hand (if right-handed)
at the middle using a very light grip. Fold the top half of the bag is back
(or cuff) over the left hand (if right-handed). Insert icing into the center of
the bag using a spatula. As the spatula is withdrawn, the hand holding
the bag can gently squeeze the icing off the spatula and into the bag. 
After the pastry bag is filled approximately halfway up, it is tightly twisted
just above the filling. The twisted portion of the bag is held in the hand as
a handle while piping out the icing. As the bag empties, the bag can
again be twisted to push the icing to the tip, similar to wringing out a wet
rag to expel the water.

891

Air pockets within the icing or along the sides of the pastry bag can result in
bursts of air that can easily ruin a decorating job. To reduce the risk of air
pockets, the icing should be deposited down to the tip of the bag and
away from the top sides. Once the bag is filled, the icing should be
squeezed and compacted down to the tip to push out any remaining air
pockets. The pastry bag should always be tested for air pockets by piping
out a sample of icing before applying icing onto a baked good.

Piping Icing.
 When decorating, the bag is held with the right hand (if right-handed) at the
top of the bag and the left hand lightly gripping the lower half. The hand
at the top of the bag applies the pressure to cause the icing to flow. The
hand on the lower half is used as a guide. In all decorating tasks, the two
most important factors are holding the bag at the correct angle and
applying the correct pressure to obtain a smooth, even flow of icing.

892

COOKIES
Cookies are a popular dessert that can be served alone or with ice creams,
sherbets, puddings, or fruit. The ingredients used in cookies are similar to
the ingredients used in cakes, although cookie doughs and batters
generally have higher fat content and lower moisture content than cake
batters. In addition, cookies are usually baked at higher temperatures for
less time than cakes.

Cookies can be classified by texture as either soft or crisp. Soft cookies are


cookies prepared from dough that contains a great deal of
moisture. Crisp cookies  are cookies prepared from dough that contains a
high percentage of sugar. The following tips are helpful when preparing
cookies:
Follow mixing instructions carefully to avoid overmixing or undermixing.

Use recipes that specify measurements by weight rather than by volume.


Weights are more exact than volumes.

Weigh all ingredients carefully. Too much or too little of an ingredient can
result in a finished product of poor quality.

Form cookies in uniform size so they bake evenly.

Bake cookies on pans covered with parchment paper.

Bake according to recipe instructions. Check the baking progress


periodically for necessary adjustments. Baking time for cookies varies
depending on size, thickness of dough, and quality of ingredients.

Place an extra sheet pan underneath the pan that is holding the cookies
if they are getting too much bottom heat. This can be detected if the
edges of the cookies brown rapidly. Store cookies properly. Crisp cookies
should be stored in a tin container with a loose-fitting top and placed in a
dry location. Crisp cookies should be warmed in a 225°F oven for 5 min
just prior to serving. Soft cookies should be placed in an airtight tin
container. Adding a slice of fresh bread to the tin will help keep soft
cookies fresh.

Cookie Preparation Methods


Cookies are categorized by the method used in preparation. Six common
methods for preparing cookies include icebox, rolled, pressed, sheet, bar,
and drop methods.  The method to use is determined by the consistency
of the cookie dough or batter.

893

Sheet.
 The sheet method of cookie preparation involves a moist, soft batter that is
poured into a parchment-lined sheet pan, baked, and cut to size. The
baked cookies are typically cut into square or rectangular units.

Rolled.
 The rolled method of cookie preparation is most often used when a specific
shape of cookie is desired. The cookies are prepared from stiff, dry
dough. The dough is refrigerated until chilled thoroughly and then rolled
out on a floured piece of canvas to a thickness of approximately 1/8". 894
Cookies are cut into desired shapes and sizes with a cookie cutter or
knife, placed on sheet pans covered with parchment paper, and then
baked.

Icebox.
 The icebox method of cookie preparation involves refrigerating the dough
overnight and then cutting the cookies to desired size. The cookies are
prepared from stiff, fairly dry dough. The dough is scaled into units of 1 lb
to 11/2 lb, rolled into lengths of approximately 16", wrapped in parchment
paper, and refrigerated overnight. The next day, the dough is sliced into
units typically 1/4" thick (or as desired), placed on sheet pans covered
with parchment paper, and then baked. Thinner slices produce crispier
cookies.

Bar.
 In the bar method of cookie preparation, dough is formed into flat lengths,
baked, and then cut to size. The cookies are prepared from stiff, fairly dry
dough. The dough is scaled into 1-lb units, refrigerated until thoroughly
chilled, and rolled into round strips the length of a sheet pan. Three strips
are placed on each parchment-lined pan, leaving a space between each
strip. The strips are flattened by hand, brushed with egg wash, baked,
and cut into bars.

Pressed.
 In the pressed method of cookie preparation, dough is pressed through a die
or pastry tube tip to produce a cookie with a three-dimensional shape.
Traditional cookie press dies form cookies in the shape of a leaf,
snowflake, or tree depending on the die. The cookies are prepared from
moist, soft dough. The dough is placed in a cookie press or a pastry bag,
squeezed or piped onto sheet pans covered with parchment paper, and
then baked.

895

Drop.
 In the drop method of cookie preparation, dough is formed into consistent-
size balls with a spoon. The cookies are prepared from a moist, soft
batter. The batter should be at room temperature, and is dropped by
uniform spoonfuls onto parchment-covered sheet pans and then baked.

PIES
Pie is one of the most popular types of dessert. The two basic types of pies
are single-crust and double-crust. A single-crust pie consists of one crust
on the bottom and a filling. A double-crust pie consists of two crusts, one
on the bottom and one on the top, and a filling.

In both types of pies, the tenderness of the crust often determines how the
pie is received. The filling may be of excellent quality, but a tough crust
may cause a customer to reject the whole preparation. Different types of
pie dough vary in preparation techniques but have very similar
ingredients. The mixing processes for pie dough are critical procedures
that are learned with practice.

Types of Pie Doughs


Most pie doughs are made primarily of flour and fat, but can differ in how the
flour and fat are mixed together and in the amount of liquid added to the
dough. The best method of learning how pie dough is properly mixed 896
is by using the hands to rub the dough during the mixing process. The
ingredients of pie dough are rubbed (cut in) with the palm of the hands
until the proper consistency is obtained. Knowing the amount of rubbing
required for proper consistency is a skill acquired through experience. A
mixing machine is often used for large quantities of pie dough but can
easily overmix the dough. A mixing machine also creates more heat in
the dough as it mixes, which can cause the fat to break down.

Pie doughs are classified into two basic types: mealy pie dough and flaky pie
dough. Flaky pie dough can be made to produce a short- or long-flake
dough.  The basic difference between these two types of dough is how
the fat is combined with the flour. The type of filling to be added
determines which type of dough is the best choice.

Mealy Pie Dough.


 A mealy pie dough is a pie dough that absorbs the least amount of liquid
because the flour and fat are rubbed together until the flour is completely
covered with shortening and the mixture resembles fine cornmeal. The
flour is then unable to absorb a large amount of liquid or moisture from
the filling because the flour granules are coated in fat. Mealy pie dough is
used mostly for bottom-crust pies, especially fruit or custard pies,
because it has high resistance to moisture and is less likely to become
soggy.

Flaky Pie Dough.


 A flaky pie dough (commonly referred to as pâte brisée) is a pie dough
prepared by cutting fat into flour until pea- or hazelnut-size particles of fat
are formed. The flour in flaky pie dough is not completely mixed in or
blended with the fat as in a mealy dough. A short-flake crust is the most
common type of flaky pie dough. There are two types of flaky pie crust:
short-flake crust and long-flake crust.

897

A short-flake crust  is a pie crust that absorbs a slightly larger amount of liquid
than mealy pie dough because the flour and fat are rubbed only until no
flour spots are evident and the fat is in pea-size particles. The flour of a
short-flake crust is not coated with fat to the same degree as in a mealy
pie dough, so the flour is able to absorb slightly more liquid. Short-flake
crust is commonly used for lattice tops of pies and for the bottom crust of
a prebaked pie shell (commonly referred to as a blind-baked pie
shell)  that will be filled with a cooked, cooled filling.

A long-flake crust is a pie crust that absorbs the greatest amount of liquid
because the flour and fat are rubbed together less than in a mealy or
short-flake crust. In a long-flake crust, the flour and fat are rubbed
together very lightly, leaving the fat in chunks about the size of a walnut.
Long-flake pie crust is best used for pie top crusts as well as prebaked
pie shells. Short-flake and long-flake pie dough can be used
interchangeably depending on the preference of the pastry chef because
they are fairly similar.

Pie Dough Ingredients


The ingredients used in most pie dough recipes are flour, fat, liquid salt, and
sugar. Each ingredient plays an important part in creating the finished
product.
Flour.
 Pastry flour contains the ideal gluten content for pie dough and produces the
best results. Flour that contains too much or too little gluten results in
tough or sticky dough. If pastry flour is not available, a blend of 60% cake
flour and 40% bread flour can be used. Pastry flour has a tendency to
pack and form lumps, so it should be sifted before use. Lumps of flour do
not absorb liquid as readily as sifted flour and can 898 lead to
overmixing, resulting in a tough crust. Pastry flour is also used for dusting
the bench when the pie dough is rolled out. Some bakers and pastry
chefs chill the pastry flour in the refrigerator in order to keep the pie
dough below 70°F during the mixing period. This method is especially
useful if mixing is done in a hot kitchen environment.

Fat.
 The fat used in pie dough is usually hydrogenated shortening or butter.
Hydrogenated shortening is used often because it has no taste and has a
plastic consistency that is ideal when cutting flour into fat. If butter is
used, it should be blended with hydrogenated shortening using a 1/3:2/3
ratio of butter to shortening. This blend must be chilled in the refrigerator
and allowed to harden slightly before it is cut into the flour, as butter
tends to soften when mixed with shortening. The use of butter may not
pay off as the flavor of the butter may be overpowered by the pie filling. If
lard is used for pie dough, a high-quality lard is required. Most types of
lard add a flavor that can be objectionable if the filling does not
overpower it, so lard is seldom used.

Liquid.
 The liquid used in preparation of pie dough may be water or milk, depending
on the recipe being used. It is important that the liquid used is at a very
cold temperature (at least 40°F or below). This helps to keep the fat
particles hard, preventing the dough from becoming too soft. Milk
produces a richer dough and a better-colored crust. If dry milk is used, it
must be dissolved in water before being added to the flour mixture. The
amount of liquid required depends on the type of pie dough being
prepared.

Salt.
 Salt is used to enhance the flavor of the dough. The salt should be dissolved
in the liquid ingredients to ensure even distribution and prevent burnt
spots.

Sugar.
 Sugar adds sweetness and color to a baked crust. Several types of sugar
can be used, depending on the recipe. Like salt, sugar should be
dissolved in the liquid to ensure a complete and even distribution.

Thickening Agents.
 Starches and flours are used to thicken pie fillings. Starches are used more
often than flours because they produce a better sheen and do not
discolor or become heavy. Common types of starch include cornstarch,
tapioca starch, and rice starch. Products such as waxy maize starch
(ClearJel®

) or modified starch are blends of starch and vegetable gum that produce a
finished product with a high sheen. Blended starches that include
vegetable gum gelatinize quickly when cooked and offset the action of
fruit acids, whereas other starches, such as cornstarch, may give the
product a cloudy or milky appearance. These blended products maintain
fruit flavor and color, produce a smooth consistency, and do not cloud
when refrigerated.

899

Starch or flour is typically added to a cooked filling while boiling. Starch or


flour begins to swell at approximately 160°F to 170°F. The swelling is
complete when the temperature reaches 200°F to 205°F. The amount of
starch used in a recipe depends on both the gelling properties of the
starch and the acidity of the fruit and juice being thickened. Usually 3 oz
to 5 oz of starch is required for each quart of liquid. More thickener is
required for fruits and juices with high acidity, such as citrus fruits. Flour
or starch should be diluted in cold water or juice before being added to a
boiling filling. When the starch is added, the filling should be whipped
vigorously to ensure that the filling remains smooth and creamy.

A pregelatinized starch  is a starch that can thicken a liquid without additional


cooking. Pregelatinized starch is precooked and does not require heat to
absorb liquid and gelatinize. It thickens quickly when blended with sugar
and added to a liquid. When using pregelatinized starch, always follow
manufacturer recommendations.

Baker’s Percentages.
 The flakiness of pie dough depends on how much or how little the fat is
mixed into the flour. If the fat is left in larger-size chunks (pea to hazelnut
size), the dough will be much flakier than if the fat were mixed with the
flour to produce a cornmeal-size particle. Because the fat is combined
more completely in mealy dough, less water is absorbed. Because the
crust is less absorbent, occasionally a pastry chef will add a small
percentage less water and fat (up to 5% less than in a flaky dough) to a
mealy dough. This is optional and is a matter of preference. The higher
the percentage of fat to flour by weight, the more tender the resulting
crust.

Recommended baker’s percentages of ingredients for an average pie dough


recipe are the following:

Note:  Although the percentages are slightly different in the two examples,
many pastry chefs use the ratio for a flaky dough for both versions of
dough and simply change the way the fat is incorporated into the flour to
yield the different pie doughs.

900

Pastry flour is the main ingredient in pie dough and equals 100% in a baker’s
percentage. All other ingredient percentages are relative to the amount of
flour. To determine baker’s percentages of ingredients used in a pie
dough recipe, first, all weights must be reduced to the smallest common
units, such as ounces. Then the weight of each ingredient is divided by
the weight of flour. The baker’s percentages of a recipe are determined
by applying the following formulas:

 1. Reduce all weights to the smallest common units. Weight in pounds is
reduced to ounces by applying the following formula:

TW = (WL × 16) + WO

where

TW = total weight (in oz)


WL = weight of ingredient (in whole lb)

16 = constant

WO  = weight of ingredient (in oz)

 2. Divide the weight of each ingredient by the weight of flour. Baker’s
percentages are determined by applying the following formula

where

BP  = baker’s percentage

WI = weight of ingredient

WF = weight of flour

For example, what are the baker’s percentages for a pie dough recipe that
uses 10 lb flour, 7 lb 4 oz shortening, 3 lb 8 oz water, 4.8 oz salt, 2.4 oz
dry milk, and 2.4 oz sugar?

 1. Reduce the weight of each ingredient to ounces.

Flour

TW = (WL × 16) + WO

TW  = (10 × 16) + 0

TW  = 160 oz of flour

Shortening

TW = (WL  × 16) + WO

TW  = (7 × 16) + 4

TW = 112 + 4

TW  = 116 oz of shortening

Water

TW = (WL  × 16) + WO

TW  = (3 × 16) + 8
TW = 48 + 8

TW  = 56 oz of water

901

 2. Find the baker’s percentage of each ingredient.

Shortening

Water

Salt

Dry Milk

Sugar

Note:  The ingredients in the golden pie dough recipe are consistent with the
suggested baker’s percentages and should produce excellent pie dough.

902

Pie Dough Preparation


Pie dough must be mixed properly to achieve good results. The correct
amount and mixing of ingredients produces a good pie crust. The salt,
sugar, and cold liquid should be blended together until the salt and sugar
are thoroughly dissolved. The liquid mixture is then poured into the flour
mixture and mixed only until the flour absorbs the liquid.

Most faults develop as the pie dough is being mixed. First, the flour should
be sifted before the fat is rubbed or cut in. It is difficult to make pie dough
in a mixer because the flour usually becomes coated with fat too quickly.
Too much gluten can develop when mixing pie dough with a mixer,
resulting in dough that is not as tender as desired. Another mistake is
adding extra flour or water to pie dough, as doing so causes overmixing
and results in toughness.

903

Mealy and Flaky Crusts.


 A mealy crust and short-flake crust are handled the same way after mixing.
Once the dough is mixed, it is wrapped with plastic wrap and refrigerated
until it is firm enough to be rolled out (about 45 min to 1 hr). Long-flake
crust must be refrigerated for a longer period, usually several hours or
overnight. If the pie dough is not refrigerated long enough, it will be too
soft and difficult to roll out. When the pie dough is firm, it is removed it
from the refrigerator and divided into 8-oz units. Any unneeded 8-oz units
should be returned to the refrigerator to be kept firm until ready to be
rolled out.

Each 8-oz unit provides enough dough for one bottom or one top crust for an
8" or 9" pie. Only one unit of dough should be rolled out at a time. The
rolling should be done on a bench dusted with pastry flour. In some
cases, bakers roll pie dough on a floured piece of canvas to keep the
dough from sticking to the bench. After the dough is rolled and the bottom
or top crust is formed, any remaining scraps can be pressed together and
reused.

Crumb Crusts.
 A crumb crust  is a pie crust made with crumbled cookie or graham cracker
pieces that are pressed together with melted butter to form a solid shell.
Crumb crusts can be made from various ingredients including graham
cracker crumbs, wafer crumbs, ginger snaps, or vanilla and chocolate
crumbs. Ground nuts are sometimes added along with sugar. Crumb
crusts are often baked for a short amount of time to make the crust more
stable. Crumb crusts are most often used for unbaked pies such as
cream or chiffon pies and are also popular for cheesecakes.

Specialty Pie Crusts.


 Specialty pie crust may be prepared by adding cheese, spices, ground nuts,
or other products to the pie dough. The added ingredient usually replaces
up to 20% of the flour, except in the case of spices.

904

Baking Pie Crusts


Sometimes pie dough is baked for a short period before it is filled. Blind
baking  is a term for baking pie shells 10 min to 15 min before a filling is
added. Blind-baked crusts are often used for pies with unbaked fillings,
such as chiffon or cream.

To blind bake a pie shell, apply the following procedure:

1.    1. Roll dough out to desired size and thickness and place in the bottom of
pie pan.

2.    2. Dock the dough with a fork or dough docker by pricking small holes into
the pie dough to allow steam to escape. Docking prevents the dough
from rising in the oven.

3.    3. Cover the dough with parchment paper and press the paper down
against the edges and sides of the dough.

4.    4. Fill the pan with pie weights or dried beans to prevent the crust from
rising in the pan.

5.    5. Bake the crust at 350°F for 10 min to 15 min, or until light golden
brown.

6.    6. Cool and fill with desired filling.

905

PIE FILLINGS
For best results, pie fillings must meet the same high quality standards as pie
crusts. A pie filling must be thickened to the proper consistency and
flavored and seasoned appropriately. In addition to thickness and flavor,
the appearance of the filling is also important. Fillings for dessert pies are
commonly divided into four types: fruit, cream, chiffon, and soft fillings.
Other fillings, such as ice cream and nesselrode (custard and fruit filling
flavored with rum and chestnuts), are considered specialty fillings.

Filling the pie shell with a uniform amount of filling is an essential step to
produce a consistent product. To accomplish this, the proper amount of
filling required for each pie is determined by weight. The prepared pie
shell is placed on a baker’s scale and the scale is balanced. The baker’s
scale is then set for the required amount of filling. Filling is then added to
the pie shell until the scale balances a second time. This procedure is
repeated for each pie.
Fruit Fillings
The most popular type of pie filling is fruit filling.  Fruit used in fruit fillings can
be frozen, canned, fresh, or dried. Each form of fruit requires different
preparation for use in a pie filling. A fruit filling recipe used should state
whether the fruit is frozen, canned, dried, or fresh.

Frozen-Fruit Fillings.
 Frozen fruit is the most common type of fruit used in commercial pie fillings.
Frozen fruit will have the same flavor characteristics and appearance as
fresh fruit, with the major difference being that it is available year-round.
Frozen fruit is produced when fruit is at peak freshness and ripeness.
The fruit is cleaned, cut into the appropriate size, blanched, and frozen
immediately. Fruit is frozen either in raw form or parboiled (partly cooked)
as soon as possible after picking. The fruit is mixed with natural 906
juices and sugar, and in some cases additional color, and then packed in
plastic tubs, buckets, or vacuum-sealed plastic and flash frozen. Frozen
fruit is commonly available in 30-lb buckets, although smaller amounts (6
1/2-lb and 10-lb containers) are sometimes available.

Frozen fruit must be completely defrosted before it is used in a pie filling. The
best method for defrosting frozen fruit is to place the unopened container
in the refrigerator. Defrosting usually takes about one day. To defrost
faster, an opened container of fruit can be set in a hot water bath and
stirred. When defrosting frozen fruit using a hot water bath, the fruit must
be constantly stirred to ensure the fruit is completely defrosted before
use. After defrosting, the fruit is strained to remove the juice. The strained
juice can be reserved and then thickened, with sugar added if desired,
and added back to the fruit. The fruit must be completely defrosted or it
bleeds (continues to release juice) and causes the filling to separate.
Thickening the juices and adding them back to the fruit prevents the fruit
from bleeding.

Canned-Fruit Fillings.
 Canned fruit is commonly used in pie fillings because it is available year-
round and the cans (No. 10) are easy to store. Canned fruit can be
purchased packed in water or syrup or in a solid pack. A solid pack is a
canned product, such as fruit, with little or no water added. A water or
syrup pack contains less fruit and a higher percentage of juice and sugar
than a solid pack. A solid pack is preferred for pie fillings because it has
more fruit and less sugar. This permits more sugar to be added after the
juice is thickened, which produces better results.

Dried-Fruit Fillings.
 Dried fruit, such as apricots, apples, and raisins, is occasionally used for pie
fillings. Dried fruit must be soaked in water to restore natural moisture
that was removed in the drying process. In some cases, the liquid and
fruit may be brought to a boil. Boiling restores moisture to the fruit,
making it soft and plump. The dried fruit is then soaked as it cools. After
soaking, the liquid is drained from the fruit, thickened, flavored, and
poured back over the fruit.

Fresh-Fruit Fillings.
 Fresh fruit is the best choice for achieving the best flavor. Nevertheless,
fresh fruit is used less often for pie fillings than frozen or canned fruit
because frozen or canned fruit is more convenient and often costs less.
Fresh fruit requires more preparation time than frozen or canned fruit.
However, when a fruit is in season, it may be just as economical to
purchase fresh as it is when frozen or canned.

The amount of water and sugar to use in a fresh fruit filling is based on the
amount of fresh fruit used, the type of fruit, and the natural sweetness of
the fruit. Usually, 65% to 70% water, based on the weight of the fresh
fruit being used, is sufficient. For example, if 10 lb of fruit is used, 61/2 lb
to 7 lb of water is needed.

Fresh-fruit fillings can be prepared using the cooked-fruit method or the


cooked-juice method. The cooked-fruit method is recommended when
firmer fruits require some cooking before being used as a filling. 907 Most
fresh-fruit fillings (except those made with fresh berries) are prepared
using the cooked-fruit method. Dried fruits, such as raisins, currents, or
figs used as a filling, are also prepared using the cooked-fruit method.
These fruits need to be softened by cooking before being baked in a pie
shell.

To prepare a fruit filling using the cooked-fruit method, apply the following
procedure:
1.   Place fruit, sugar, and a small amount of juice in saucepan with the
desired or required spices. Bring to a boil.

2.   Dissolve starch in cold water and pour slowly into the boiling fruit and juice
mixture while stirring constantly.

3.   Bring the mixture back to a boil and cook until clear.

4.   Add salt, and color (if desired), and stir until thoroughly blended.

5.   Cool slightly and pour the filling into unbaked pie shells.

The cooked-juice method is recommended when using fruit that is slightly


soft, such as frozen fruit and fresh ripe berries, as only the juice from the
fruit is cooked. Frozen fruit is slightly cooked prior to freezing, which
results in a slightly softer flesh. If it were cooked again, it would become
too soft and would smash or break apart easily. Fresh berry fillings
prepared using the cooked-juice method will usually have a small amount
of the berries cooked to soften, puréed, and then thickened with a starch.
The resulting gel is then added to the remainder of the fresh berries.

908

To prepare a berry fruit filling using the cooked-juice method for fresh
berries, apply the following procedure:

1.   Clean and remove leaves and stems from berries.

2.   Separate about 20% of the berries and purée until smooth.

3.   Place the puréed berries in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.

4.   Mix the starch, sugar, and salt with the appropriate amount of water to
result in the desired volume of filling. Slowly add the starch mixture to the
simmering fruit purée.

5.   Continue to simmer and stir until the mixture thickens.

6.   Carefully pour the thickened mixture over the remainder of the fresh
berries and stir gently to avoid crushing or breaking the fruit.

Cream Fillings
Cream fillings are simple to prepare, but care must be taken to achieve a
smooth, flavorful filling. The most popular cream pies are chocolate,
vanilla, coconut, butterscotch, and banana. After the filling is prepared, it
is placed in a prebaked pie shell and topped with meringue or a cream
topping.

909

To prepare a cream filling, apply the following procedure:

1.   Place milk in the top of a double boiler and heat.

2.   In a separate container, beat eggs and add sugar, salt, and starch or flour.
Add cold milk while stirring constantly until a thin paste forms.

3.   Add the scalding milk to the thin paste, whipping constantly until the
mixture thickens and becomes smooth. Note:  It is important to beat the
filling vigorously once the starch or flour starts to thicken. Not doing so
will cause the filling to become lumpy.

4.   Cook until starch or flour is completely incorporated. Remove from


heat. Note: Undercooking will cause a cream filling to have a floury or
starchy taste.

5.   Add flavoring and butter or shortening.

6.   Pour into prebaked pie shells and let cool.

7.   Top with meringue or whipped topping and serve.

Soft Fillings
A soft filling  is a pie filling that is uncooked and is baked in an unbaked pie
crust. Soft-filling pies are the most difficult pies to make. The difficulty lies
in baking the filling and crust to the proper temperature without
overbaking or underbaking either part. Common soft-filling pies include
910 pumpkin pie, custard pie, and pecan pie. Common mistakes made
when making soft-filling pies include the following:

The crust is soggy. Roll out the pie dough on graham cracker crumbs
instead of flour or sprinkle some crushed cake crumbs across the inside
bottom of the pie shell prior to filling.
The filling is runny or separates. Use precooked or pregelatinized starch
instead of cornstarch to bind the filling.

The filling is watery. Use an egg-white stabilizer (1/4 oz per quart of


filling) or tapioca flour (1 oz per quart of milk) to bind the filling and
improve the appearance of the finished product.

Generally, soft pies are baked at 400°F for the first 10 min to 15 min of the
baking time. The temperature can be reduced to 325°F or 350°F for the
remainder of the time. The pie is removed from the oven as soon as the
filling sets. This helps to set the bottom crust and cook the bottom of the
soft filling before it can make the bottom crust soggy. To check the filling
for doneness, use either of the following methods:

Insert a knife 1" from the center. If the knife comes out clean, the filling is
done.

Gently shake the pie. If the filling is no longer liquid, the pie is done. The
center may move slightly, but carryover heat continues to cook the filling
after the pie is removed from the oven.

Chiffon Fillings
A chiffon filling  is a light, fluffy filling prepared by folding (blending one
mixture over another) a meringue into a fruit or cream pie filling. In most
cases, a small amount of plain gelatin is added to the fruit- or custard-
based filling to help the chiffon filling set when cooled.

To prepare a chiffon filling, apply the following procedure:

1.   Prepare either a fruit or cream filling.

2.   Soak plain gelatin for 5 min in cold water. Add gelatin to the hot fruit or
cream filling, stirring until the gelatin is thoroughly dissolved.

3.   Place the filling in a fairly shallow pan and let cool. Refrigerate until the
filling begins to set. Note:  If the filling starts to set completely it will be
difficult to fold in the egg whites uniformly. Stir the filling occasionally
while cooling so it cools uniformly.

911
1.   Prepare a meringue by whipping egg whites and sugar together until the
mixture forms stiff peaks.

2.   Fold the meringue into the jellied fruit or cream mixture gently, preserving
as many of the air cells as possible. This step should be done quickly so
that the gelatin does not set before the folding is finished.

3.   Pour the chiffon filling into a baked pie shell and refrigerate until set.

4.   Top with whipped cream or whipped topping.

MERINGUES
Meringues are most often used to top pies. A meringue is a mixture of egg
whites and sugar. Meringues can be soft or hard, depending on the ratio
of sugar to egg whites. The greater the amount of sugar in proportion to
egg whites, the harder (more stable) the resulting meringue. A soft
meringue typically has a 1:1 ratio, one part sugar to one part egg whites,
while a hard meringue has a 2:1 ratio, two parts sugar to one part egg
whites. Soft meringues are often used as a dessert topping, such as
lemon meringue pie.

If a meringue-topped pie is to be held for some time prior to eating, a hard


meringue with a ratio of 1 1/2 :1 (1 1/2 parts sugar to 1 part egg white)
would work best as it will not weep. Hard meringues are used to make
912 crisp shells or disks, such as dacquoise disks, that hold soft
desserts. The following tips are helpful for making meringues:

Egg whites must be beaten in grease-free bowls. Fat of any kind,


especially egg yolk, prohibits egg whites from whipping and increasing in
volume. This occurs because fats coat the protein molecules in the egg
white and prevent them from taking on adequate air and forming stable
bubbles (foam). Instead of whipping properly, fat-coated protein
molecules expand slightly with air and then collapse immediately.
Because of this, it is important that all items (e.g., bowls, whisks) used in
making a meringue are clean and free of residue from fats, including oils
or egg yolks. Allow egg whites to stand at room temperature for at least
30 min before whipping. Egg whites at room temperature whip up faster.

Add cream of tartar at the beginning of the beating stage. The acid in
cream of tartar helps stabilize and add volume to egg whites.
Three common types of meringue are common (French) meringue, Swiss
meringue, and Italian meringue.  These three types of meringue are used
in a variety of desserts. A common (French) meringue is made simply by
whipping egg whites with a bit of acid (lemon juice or cream of tartar) and
gradually adding sugar until desired stiffness is achieved.

Swiss Meringue.
 A Swiss meringue is made by first gently warming the egg whites and sugar
over a hot water bath and then beating them until desired stiffness is
achieved. Swiss meringue is a more difficult meringue to make than
common meringue. After the whites and sugar have been heated in a
double boiler or bain marie to about 110°F, the sugar dissolves 913
thoroughly, making this meringue more stable and less prone to weeping.
However, if the egg white mixture becomes too hot, the egg whites will
not whip properly, resulting in a runny meringue.

Italian Meringue.
 An Italian meringue is made by heating a mixture of sugar, water, and a
touch of cream of tartar to a temperature of 242°F. This mixture is then
cooled to 220°F and poured in a slow, steady stream into egg whites
while beating continuously. Italian meringues are most commonly used in
making buttercream frosting. The cooking of the egg whites with the very
hot sugar mixture make this meringue the most stable. However, cooking
the whites also results in a taffy-like texture that is not as light and airy as
the texture of a common or Swiss meringue, making it less desirable on
its own.

PASTRIES
Pastries are commonly thought of as something sweet made with a light,
flaky bread or crust. However, pastries can also be savory dishes
depending on the ingredients used. Once a chef understands the
procedure for making pastry items, many different sweets, hors
d’oeuvres, and savory dishes can be prepared. The word pastry comes
from the word "paste," which means a mixture of flour, liquid, and fat, and
typically refers to different types of products made from pastes. The most
common types of pastries include basic puff pastry (pâte feuilletée), éclair
paste (pâte à choux), strudel, and phyllo.
914

Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée)


A puff pastry is a type of dough that does not contain sugar or a leavening
agent but increases greatly in size when heat is applied. The French term
for puff pastry is pâte feuilletée(pronounced paht foo-yee-TAY). Puff
pastry dough is made by rolling and folding alternate layers of fat and
dough, in the same manner as used to make Danish dough or croissant
dough. While Danish and croissant doughs use yeast to make the dough
rise, puff pastry does not contain a leavening agent. Instead, puff pastry
rises as a result of the steam created when moisture in the layers of
dough is released during baking.

Éclair Paste (Pâte à Choux)


Éclair paste is a dough made from beating eggs into a paste of boiled water,
butter, and flour. It is used to make cream puffs, éclairs, beignets, and
profiteroles. Éclair paste is also known as pâte à choux (pronounced paht
ah shoo). The high egg content in éclair paste makes the dough rise and
gives it a distinct character that makes it easily distinguishable from any
other type of pastry. Cream puffs are round pastries filled with sweetened
whipped cream.

To make éclair paste, apply the following procedure:

1.   Combine the liquid, fat, salt, and sugar (if desired) and bring to a
boil. Note: Ensure the liquid reaches a rapid boil in order for the fat to
disperse properly.

2.   Add flour and stir until the paste pulls away from the sides of the pan and
forms a ball.

3.   Allow the paste to rest and cool for a few minutes. This ensures the eggs
do not immediately cook when added to the paste.

4.   Add the eggs one at a time, vigorously beating after each addition. If the
eggs are added too quickly, the batter may not be as smooth as
desired. Note:  The eggs might not all be used, depending upon the
moisture content of the flour and the size of each egg. Stop adding eggs
when the dough begins to fall away from the beaters.
5.   Fill a pasty bag with paste and pipe the paste into desired shapes onto
parchment-lined pans.

6.   Bake the paste until completely dry. Note:  If it is not completely dry when
removed from the oven, the pastry may collapse.

7.   Fill with desired filling and serve as soon as possible. Note: Filled éclairs


should be eaten within a few hours or they become soggy.

 Éclairs are oblong pastries that are filled with pastry cream and topped with
a chocolate glaze. Beignets are strips of éclair paste that are sweetened
with sugar, deep-fried, and dusted with powdered sugar. Profiteroles are
round pastries filled with ice cream or other savory or sweet fillings.

915

Strudel and Phyllo Dough


Strudel dough  is a dough that is made from high-gluten flour and rolled paper
thin. The high gluten content of the flour results in an elastic dough with
many flaky layers. Strudel dough is rolled out, filled with a sweet or
savory filling, and then rolled up. Phyllo dough  is a dough consisting of
very thin sheets of unleavened dough. Each sheet is buttered and
layered to produce a pastry consisting of many thin, flaky, buttery layers.
Phyllo is a staple in Greek and Turkish cuisine. Many strudels are even
made with phyllo dough.

It takes an extremely skilled chef to make phyllo dough from scratch. It is


more common to purchase commercially made phyllo dough for use in
recipes calling for strudel or phyllo dough. Commercially made 916 phyllo
dough is available frozen and must be thawed before use. Phyllo dough
must be kept moist either by brushing each layer with butter or covering
the dough with a damp cloth. Working with one sheet at a time is best as
the dough dries out in minutes.

SPECIALTY DESSERTS
Custards, soufflés, and frozen desserts are all types of specialty desserts
that are not classified as cakes, pies, or cookies. Ice creams and
sherbets are very popular and can be made in a variety of flavors. They
can be served alone or with cake, cookies, or other dessert items.
Specialty desserts using ice cream combined with fruits, fruit sauces, and
liqueurs create eye-appealing parfaits and coupes. Flambés (flaming
desserts) are ignited tableside for the customer’s enjoyment.

Custards
A custard is a liquid that is thickened by cooking and coagulating egg
proteins that are part of the mixture. There are three varieties of cooked
custards: baked, souffléed, and stirred.

Baked Custards.
 Baked custards (also called baked puddings) are most often baked in a
water bath at a temperature of 275°F–300°F until the custard has set, but
not completely cooked. Custard continues to cook after it has been
removed from the oven. A water bath is used to prevent custard from
drying out during cooking. Baked custard is generally a solid form that
retains the shape of its container and is firm enough to slice. Another
method used to prepare baked custard is to cook it in a steamer. Baked
custards include desserts such as cheesecake, bread pudding, rice
pudding, crème brûlée, and crème caramel.

Cheesecake is a variety of baked custard that most commonly contains


cream cheese. Cheesecake is typically made with a graham cracker or
cookie crust in a springform pan. There are two common varieties of
cheesecake available. A creamy version known as Italian cheesecake is
light, fluffy, and creamy, while a drier, denser, and richer filling is common
for a New York cheesecake. Other varieties of cheesecake include
unbaked versions that are not custard-based desserts. Unbaked
cheesecakes rely on gelatin to set the ingredients and make the
cheesecake firm.

Bread pudding is a baked custard that is made by pouring a custard


mixture over bread chunks and baking it in the oven. Bread pudding can
be sweet, where pieces of day-old Danish or sweet rolls are used and the
custard is flavored with cinnamon, nutmeg, or other sweet spices and
baked. It can also be savory, where sugar is omitted from the custard and
savory ingredients such as herbs and meats are added to the bread
chunks and baked.

917
Rice pudding  is a baked custard made from cooked rice combined with a
sweet custard and often dried fruits such as raisins or currants.

Crème brûlée is a baked custard that still possesses the texture of a


spoonable stirred custard beneath the surface. Here a sweet custard is
poured into an oven-proof, individual-size casserole dish and baked in a
water bath. After it has set, it is removed and cooled completely. When
needed for service, crème brûlée is topped with granulated sugar, which is
caramelized with a pastry torch before serving. The caramelized sugar
produces a thin, glasslike candy covering over the surface of a creamy,
spoonable custard. A crème brûlée can be made savory with the addition
on spices, herbs, or other savory ingredients. Crème brûlée is served in
the dish (often a ramekin) in which it was prepared.

Crème caramel, also called flan, is a baked custard in which a small


amount of hot caramelized sugar is poured into a small serving dish. The
sweet, uncooked custard is poured into the dish on top of the caramelized
sugar. It is then baked in a water bath and removed when set. To serve,
the custard is unmolded and served upside down on a plate so that the
caramel sauce runs down over the baked custard.

Steamed Puddings.
 Steamed puddings are similar to baked custards except that they are
cooked using the steaming method. This moist-heat cooking method
keeps steamed puddings from drying out as happens occasionally with a
baked custard. Steamed puddings are typically made with fruit, suet
(animal fat), flour, eggs, bread crumbs, baking soda for leavening, and
brown sugar or molasses. The use of a dark-colored sweetener gives
these puddings a characteristic dark appearance. Steamed puddings are
highly flavored with such spices as ginger, mace, nutmeg, and allspice.
Rum, brandy, or both are used to provide aroma and flavor.

Steamed puddings can be prepared in large or individual metal containers


that are covered in foil and placed in a steamer or by baking in a water
bath in a 350°F oven covered with a damp cloth for approximately 2 hr to
3 hr. Another method of preparing steamed puddings is to place the
pudding in a damp muslin cloth dusted with flour, tie the ends of the cloth
loosely to allow for expansion, and suspend it just above hot water to
cook the pudding with steam. Steamed puddings have a heavy texture
and are commonly served hot with a warm sauce that complements the
pudding’s flavor and color.
Soufflés.
 Soufflé custards are commonly referred to as soufflés. Although soufflés are
baked in the oven, they are quite different from other baked custards.
Sweet soufflés are prepared by using a cooked custard base (pastry
cream) that is combined with different flavors such as chocolate, vanilla,
or fruit. This base is then lightened with egg whites that have been
whipped with a portion of sugar and carefully folded in. It is important that
the flavored custard base and the whipped egg whites both be at room
temperature before mixing. Egg whites whip better when not chilled, and
having them at the same temperature as the base allows the base and
the whites to mix more easily.

918

This light and fluffy soufflé base is then put into straight-side ramekins that
have been buttered and coated with granulated sugar all the way to the
rim. As they bake, soufflés grow tall from the air expansion in the egg
foam when heated, similar to cakes. However, soufflés are not stable like
cakes and easily collapse once removed from the oven. For this reason,
soufflés can only be made to order and served immediately.

When preparing a soufflé, the beaten egg whites must be folded into the
custard base gently and baked carefully to prevent the soufflé from
becoming heavy and soggy.

To prepare individual soufflés, apply the following procedure:

1.   Prepare ramekins in advance by buttering the interior and rim of each dish
completely and then thoroughly coating the buttered surface in
granulated sugar. Note: If there is any spot that is not completely buttered
and sugared, it will prevent the soufflé from rising. Mix desired flavoring
base into prepared pastry cream.

2.   Begin whipping egg whites. When soft peaks have formed, begin adding
sugar slowly while continually whipping until all the sugar has been
added and stiff peaks have formed.

3.   Carefully fold approximately 1/3 of the whipped egg whites into the soufflé
base and mix well to incorporate and lighten the base. Continue to fold in
the remaining whipped whites and mix gently to prevent a loss of volume.
4.   Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared ramekins, filling to about 1/4"
from the top and bake immediately.

5.   Remove soufflés when they have risen well above the surface of the
ramekin and turned a golden brown. Serve immediately.

A properly baked soufflé rises high above the rim of the ramekin and should
have a golden brown surface. If any part of the interior or rim of the
ramekin is not buttered and sugared, the soufflé sticks and does not rise
properly. To serve, sweet soufflés are commonly split open at the table
and served with a slightly beaten cream that is flavored with a liquor or
fruit purée.

Stirred Custards.
 Stirred custards can be creamy and thick but pourable, or they can be
thicker and heavier but still spoonable. Pourable stirred custards are
often served as a sauce for a dessert. Stirred custard that is thick and
spoonable may be referred to as pudding.

Stirred custards need to be cooked carefully to avoid unintentionally


scrambling the eggs from heating to too high a temperature. When
cooked 919 alone, egg whites begin to coagulate (become solid) at
145°F, and yolks coagulate at 155°F. When additional ingredients such
as sugar or starch are added to eggs, the temperature at which the eggs
coagulate increases. This means that an egg and sugar or starch mixture
can be heated to a temperature above 155°F before starting to
coagulate. Two stirred custards every chef should know how to prepare
are crème anglaise and pastry cream. Sabayon is another popular stirred
custard made using a slightly different procedure than the other two.

Crème Anglaise.
Crème anglaise is vanilla custard sauce that is made by whisking in sugar in
two stages, half into whisked egg yolks and the other half into scalded
milk or cream. Crème anglaise should be made in a nonreactive
saucepan or stainless steel double boiler to prevent the eggs from
scrambling or curdling. The scalded milk and sugar mixture is then
whisked rapidly in three intervals into the sugar and yolk mixture in order
to temper the yolks and prevent curdling.

To prepare crème anglaise, apply the following procedure:


1.   lace milk (and cream or half-and-half, if specified in recipe), half of the
required amount of granulated sugar, and salt in a nonreactive saucepan
and bring just to a scald to completely dissolve the sugar. Note: If a whole
vanilla bean is to be used, it can be split and scraped, and the seeds and
pod can be added to the milk in this step. If an extract is to be added, it
can be added just prior to straining.

2.   In a stainless steel mixing bowl, whisk egg yolks and remainder of
granulated sugar until light and airy.

3.   Temper the yolks by adding about 1/3 of the hot milk mixture to the yolk
and sugar mixture while whisking rapidly.

4.   When milk and yolks are mixed well, add another 1/3 of the hot milk
mixture to the yolks while whisking, and repeat with the remainder of the
milk.

5.   Pour the complete mixture back into the sauce pan and continue to cook
while whisking until the mixture reaches 175°F or coats the back of a
spoon.

6.   Add vanilla extract (or another type of extract for additional flavoring).

7.   Strain the sauce into a stainless steel bain marie to remove any lumps and
immediately place in an ice bath until cooled completely. Keep cold until
needed.

 The mixture is then put back on the stove and heated until thick and smooth.
Crème anglaise is fully cooked when it reaches 175°F and should be
nappe, or able to smoothly coat the back of a spoon. Crème anglaise is
well known for its use as a beautiful vanilla custard sauce served to
accompany many dessert dishes. Because this stirred custard sauce is
rich and silky smooth, it freezes well.

920

Pastry Cream.
Pastry cream is a custard sauce made with egg yolks, sugar, milk, and a
starch (usually cornstarch or flour). Unlike crème anglaise, pastry cream
can be brought to a boil and simmered because the starch protects the
egg yolks from curdling. Boiling allows the starch to fully gelatinize and
removes any raw starch taste from the finished product.
To prepare pastry cream, apply the following procedure:

1.   Place 3/4 of the required milk, half of the required sugar, and the salt in a
nonreactive saucepan and bring just to a scald in order to completely
dissolve the sugar. Note:  If a whole vanilla bean is to be used, it can be
split in half and scraped, and the seeds and pod can be added to the milk
in this step. If an extract is to be added, it can be added just prior to
straining.

2.   Place yolks and half of the required amount of sugar in mixer. Using the
whip attachment, whip on high speed until mixture turns pale yellow and
thick.

3.   Whisk flour or cornstarch into yolk mixture and mix well. Add remaining
1/4 of the required milk and mix well until smooth.

4.   Pour about 1/3 of the hot milk mixture into the yolk mixture while whisking
continuously to temper the yolks.

5.   Add the tempered yolk mixture back to the saucepan of milk while stirring
rapidly. Return to the heat while stirring constantly.

6.   Bring mixture to a boil while stirring vigorously. Note:  As the mixture


approaches boiling, it will begin to appear lumpy. Don’t be alarmed. As
soon as it reaches the boiling point, the continuous whisking will break
apart the lumps and the pastry cream will appear smooth. Continue to
whisk and boil for 1 min.

7.   Remove the cooked pastry cream from the heat and place in a stainless
steel bain marie or mixing bowl. Carefully fold in the softened butter,
using caution to not overmix the pastry cream as doing so would cause
thinning.

8.   Cover pastry cream immediately with plastic wrap and place in an ice bath
to cool completely. Keep cold until needed. Note: When covering pastry
cream with plastic wrap, the plastic should be pressed down to make
contact with the surface to prevent the pastry cream from forming a skin.

 A common use of pastry cream is to fill a tart shell and then top it with sliced
fresh fruit. It is also commonly used as a filling for napoleons, cream
puffs, and éclairs, as well as many other sweet pastries. When properly
prepared, it should have the consistency and appearance of a smooth
pudding.
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Sabayon.
 Sabayon is actually a foam, but is often grouped under stirred custards as it
is made in a similar manner. Sabayon is prepared by whisking the sugar
and yolks over a double boiler until they are whipped into a thin, silky
foam.

To prepare sabayon, apply the following procedure:

1.   Place sugar, yolks, salt, and champagne or Marsala wine in a mixer and
whisk until light colored and thick.

2.   Remove bowl from mixer and place over a pot of simmering water. Whisk
continuously until mixture is thick and much lighter colored and forms a
ribbon. At this stage, the mixture should have a temperature of
approximately 175°F.

3.   Serve immediately while warm, or return the bowl to the mixer and whip
until completely cooled.

4.   When cool, remove the sabayon and place in a nonreactive bowl covered
with plastic wrap pressed against the surface to prevent a skin from
forming.

Champagne or a high-quality sweet wine, such as Marsala, is commonly


added to increase the flavor of the sauce. Heating the eggs while
whisking cooks them and makes the resulting foam stable enough to
retain a shape. Sabayon is commonly served as a sauce and can be
served warm or cold. A classic use for sabayon is over a dish of fresh
berries, as the rich, sweet sauce is balanced by the acidic quality of the
berries.

Creams
Creams are light and airy desserts where whipped cream or whipped egg
whites have been folded in to increase volume. Some of these have
gelatin added to aid in retaining their shape. Cream desserts include
Bavarian creams, chiffons, and mousses.

Bavarian.
 A Bavarian (or Bavarian cream) is a flavored custard sauce that has been
stabilized with gelatin while still warm. After it has almost completely
cooled, whipped cream is folded in. The mixture is then placed in a mold
to set before being served. Too much gelatin in a Bavarian could make it
overly firm and rubbery, while too little gelatin could make it too soft and it
could lose its shape after being removed from the mold.

Once a Bavarian has set completely and is firm, the solid portion of the
Bavarian mold is dipped in warm water for a few seconds to loosen the
Bavarian from the mold. The mold can then be turned over onto a plate.
A Bavarian is commonly sliced to order. Caution should be taken with
highly acidic fruits such as pineapple because a high acid content
weakens the strength of gelatin. When a high-acid fruit is used, the recipe
may require more gelatin to set properly.

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Chiffon.
 A chiffon is similar to a Bavarian, but instead of folding in whipped cream,
whipped egg whites are folded into the cooled custard sauce. Chiffon can
be placed into a mold but is most often used as a pie filling, as in a lemon
chiffon pie, or folded into cakes such as an Italian cream cake.

Mousse.
 A mousse is similar to a chiffon and a Bavarian in the way that it is
produced. A mousse is lightened with whipped cream, whipped egg
whites, or both. The main difference is that a mousse contains only a
small amount of gelatin, if any at all. A mousse can be served as a
dessert on its own or can be used as a cake filling.

Frozen Desserts
Frozen desserts are a popular dessert choice. They may be served
alongside or on top of other dessert dishes or eaten as an individual dish.
Common frozen dessert items used in food service include ice creams,
gelati, sorbets and sherbets, parfaits, bombes, sundaes, and flambés.

Ice Cream.
 Ice cream can be the main attraction for a dessert course or can be a
wonderful dessert accompaniment, as with pie à la mode  (served with a
scoop of ice cream).  There are many different flavors of ice cream
available commercially, but the range of flavors that a chef can produce
is limited only by his or her imagination. Many chefs are combining
flavors such as pistachio and white chocolate, ginger and lemongrass, or
banana and coconut. Many ice creams also contain sweet or savory
additions such as chocolate chips, peanut butter, nuts, pretzels, or
caramel. Whatever the flavor, it is important that the chef has an
understanding of how the ingredients of an ice cream base interact with
each other.

923

There are two general types of ice cream base. The first incorporates eggs to
make a crème anglaise ice cream base and produces a rich and creamy
dessert. The second variety is a simple mixture of milk, cream, sugar,
and flavorings that are heated to dissolve the sugar and then chilled prior
to churning. Whichever ice cream base is used, it is important to
refrigerate it for at least a few hours to allow excess moisture to be
absorbed and bound to the sugar. Doing so results in fewer ice crystals
being formed during the freezing process.

Ice cream increases in volume and becomes lighter in texture when air is
churned into it. Overrun is the increase in volume of ice cream or other
frozen products as a result of the incorporation of air during churning and
freezing. Overrun of 100% would mean that an ice cream doubled in size
during churning and freezing and contains 50% air by volume. The FDA
allows a maximum of 100% overrun, although better-quality ice cream
generally has less. Too much overrun makes ice cream feel frothy and
thin in the mouth, rather than creamy and smooth. Some premium ice
creams sold commercially have overrun of around 20%, meaning that
they contain 10% air. A lower overrun gives ice cream a richer mouth
feel.

Ice cream should be smooth, creamy, and rich, with enough of the main
flavoring ingredient to be flavorful but not overpowering. The proper
balance of ingredients works together to form the overall texture and
flavor that makes ice cream so popular. For example, eggs add richness
to ice cream but also act as emulsifiers in the base. Excess moisture is
bound by the lecithin in egg yolk, which helps to prevent ice crystals from
forming on the surface and throughout the ice cream. Fewer ice crystals
allow for a smoother and creamier mouth feel.Mouth feel is the sensation
a food or beverage creates in the mouth, other than that created by the
item’s flavor.

Texture, consistency, and temperature all affect mouth feel. Both the cream
and eggs allow for air to be whipped into the product during the churning
process, giving the end product a smoother, creamier mouth feel. If air
were not whipped into the mixture, it would freeze into a dense, hard ice
cube rather than smooth, creamy ice cream.

In addition to adding sweetness, sugar also helps to lower the freezing point
of an ice cream base, keeping it from freezing rock hard. However, too
much sugar can prevent an ice cream from freezing, and too little sugar
results in an icy, unpleasant mouth feel and a product that is difficult to
scoop.

Gelato.
Gelato is an Italian version of ice cream, with a creamier, denser texture than
that of typical American ice cream. Gelato is churned for a shorter period,
incorporating less air and leading to a denser product.

Sorbet. Sorbet  is a refreshing frozen dessert made of fresh fruit and simple


syrup. Sorbet is traditionally served before the main course at formal
dinners to cleanse the palate of flavors from prior courses. It is churned in
an ice cream maker in the same way as ice cream. Sorbet is naturally
924 lower in calories and fat than ice cream because of the absence of
dairy products, especially heavy cream and egg yolks. Many different
types of fruit may be used in the making of sorbets. Pears, watermelon,
blackberries, and raspberries are a few popular varieties. The fruit in a
sorbet is always puréed before being frozen in an ice cream maker.

Sherbet.
Sherbet is similar to sorbet — in fact the word "sherbet" is actually derived
from a poor translation of the French word "sorbet." Along with the slight
change in the name came a slight change to the recipe for sorbet.
Sherbet is a creamier version of traditional icy sorbet, with some milk
added to it during the churning process. It is lower in fat than ice cream
but, because of the presence of milk, it still has a slightly creamy texture
compared to the icy texture of sorbet. Some chefs add a small amount of
egg whites to sherbet as another way of giving sherbet a smoother
texture. If egg whites are to be used, only pasteurized whites are
acceptable, as they will not be cooked.

Granité.
Granité is a frozen dessert made by frequently stirring a mixture of water,
sugar, and flavorings, such as fruit juice or wine, as it is freezing. It has a
grainy texture, with ice crystals larger than those of a sorbet. Granité is a
popular dish that is often used to cleanse the palate between courses or
served as a refreshing dessert on a hot summer day.

Parfaits.
 A parfait is a dessert prepared by alternating layers of ice cream and
toppings, such as a sauce or fruit, and is topped with whipped cream. 
Parfaits are often served in a fairly narrow glass. Parfaits can be served
immediately or frozen and held for service at a later date. Preparing
parfaits in advance is helpful for large group service. The following are
preparation instructions for common types of parfaits:

Parfait Crème de Menthe— Alternate layers of crème de menthe and


vanilla ice cream. Garnish with whipped cream, chopped nuts, and a
maraschino cherry.

Rainbow Parfait— Alternate layers of strawberry sauce with vanilla,


strawberry, and chocolate ice cream. Garnish with fresh strawberries,
whipped cream, and chopped nuts.

Parfait Melba— Alternate layers of melba sauce with vanilla ice cream.
Garnish with fresh raspberries and whipped cream.

Pineapple Parfait— Alternate layers of crushed pineapple with vanilla ice


cream or lemon sherbet. Garnish with whipped cream, chopped nuts, and
a maraschino cherry.

Chocolate Parfait— Alternate layers of chocolate syrup with chocolate or


vanilla ice cream. Garnish with hot fudge, whipped cream, and a
maraschino cherry.

Strawberry Parfait— Alternate layers of strawberry sauce with vanilla ice


cream. Garnish with fresh strawberries, whipped cream, and chopped
nuts.
925

Butterscotch Parfait— Alternate layers of butterscotch sauce with vanilla


ice cream. Garnish with whipped cream, chopped nuts, and a
maraschino cherry.

Bombes.
 A bombe, or bombe glacée, is a French ice cream dessert where at least
two varieties of ice cream are layered inside a spherical mold, frozen,
and then unmolded and decorated for service. Some pastry chefs dip the
frozen unmolded bombe in tempered chocolate to create a shell over its
surface. When three ice cream varieties are layered in a rectangular
mold, the item is referred to as a Neapolitan. A Neapolitan is commonly
unmolded and sliced for service. The most common combination of ice
creams in a Neapolitan is strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla, although
any varieties may be used.

Sundaes.
Coupe is the French word for the dessert commonly known as a sundae.
A sundae is a dessert made with one or more scoops of ice cream or
sherbet, along with one or more liqueurs, sauces, or pieces of fruit.  They
are often topped with whipped cream, chopped nuts, and a maraschino
cherry. Sundaes can be topped with hot fudge, caramel, butterscotch, or
any sort of fruit sauce, and quickly made to order. Classic versions of the
sundae are as follows:

Coupe Melba— Vanilla ice cream covered with a peach half, topped with
melba sauce, and garnished with whipped cream and a sliced peach.

Coupe Helene— Vanilla ice cream covered with a Bartlett pear half,
topped with chocolate sauce, and garnished with whipped cream and a
maraschino cherry.

Coupe Savory— Mocha ice cream covered with assorted diced fresh
fruits flavored with anisette liqueur, and garnished with whipped cream
and chopped nuts.

Strawberry Coupe — Vanilla ice cream covered with fresh strawberries


that have been tossed in curaçao liqueur, and garnished with whipped
cream and a fresh strawberry.
Pineapple Coupe— Vanilla ice cream covered with diced pineapple
flavored with Kirschwasser, and garnished with whipped cream and a
maraschino cherry

Flambés.
 Flambé desserts are flaming desserts that are served tableside. Cherries
jubilee and crêpes Suzette are both showcase flambé desserts. These
special desserts are made in front of the customer by pouring a liqueur
over a fruit sauce that is layered over ice cream or crêpes and setting the
liqueur on fire. The flame is extinguished when all the alcohol has been
burned off. The flavor of the liqueur remains and blends with the ice
cream, which is only slightly melted on the surface. Note:  A liqueur burns
best if it is approximately 100 proof and slightly warm. Liqueur that is
labeled "100 proof" contains 50% alcohol by volume. Brandy, rum, and
cognac are the liqueurs used most often for flambé because of their high
alcohol content and flavor.

926

SUMMARY
Desserts are the last course of a meal and therefore leave the last
impression. A well-executed dessert can be the highlight of a meal.
Whether preparing cakes, pastries, or desserts, a pastry chef must have
a thorough understanding of the basic procedures involved. Mastering
the professional techniques involved in the preparation of cakes, pastries,
pies, cookies, and specialty desserts enables a chef to produce sweet
finales for wonderful meals and dazzle customers with his or her artistic
talents and skills.

Review Questions
1.   Identify the most common ingredients used in cakes.

2.   Describe the two-stage method of mixing cake batters.

3.   Describe the creaming method of mixing cake batters.

4.   Describe the sponge method of mixing cake batters.

5.   Describe how to test cakes for doneness.


6.   Identify seven types of icing.

7.   List common materials that a pastry bag can be made from.

8.   Describe the icebox method of cookie preparation.

9.   What are the disadvantages of using a mixing machine to mix pie doughs?

10.    Contrast the characteristics of mealy pie dough and flaky pie dough.

11.    Identify the main ingredients of pie dough.

12.    Name the main ingredient in pie dough that equals 100% in a baker’s
percentage.

13.    Explain the purpose of blind baking.

14.    List four categories of fruit fillings for pies.

15.    Describe the main characteristics of a chiffon filling.

16.    List three common problems to avoid when making soft-filling pies.

17.    How does the ratio of sugar to egg whites affect meringues?

18.    List four pastries made with éclair paste.

19.    Contrast strudel dough and phyllo dough.

927

1.   Describe the qualities of baked custard.

2.   Describe the six-step procedure for making individual soufflés.

3.   Describe the main steps for making crème anglaise.

4.   Describe two types of ice cream base.

5.   How does gelato differ from ice cream?

6.   Describe how parfaits are made and served.

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