The mailanchi ceremony, during which the bride’s hands and feet are

adorned with henna, is an important pre-wedding Mappila ritual.

English Language
Classic Malabar Recipes
Cookbook
by Faiza Moosa

Text © Faiza Moosa

Photographs© DC Books acknowledges that Stark World Publishing Pvt. Ltd.
owns the copyright for 74 of a total of 103 photographs published in this book. The remaining 29
photographs were sourced by Mr. C.P. Moosa and DC Books

Design and Layout©

This book is published in arrangement with Stark World Publishing Pvt. Ltd.

First Published December 2012

E-book Edition May 2015

Cover Design
DC Books

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Kerala State, India
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Although utmost care has been taken in the preparation of this book, neither the publishers nor the editors/
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To my mother, from whom I discovered
the joy of cooking. Without her none of
this would have been possible.
Contents
Foreword
Introduction
Snacks & Starters
Puttu & Pathiri
Biriyani & Pulao
Egg & Chicken
Lamb & Beef
Fish & Shellfish
Greens & Vegetables

Pachadis, Pickles & Chutneys
Sweets & Desser ts
Beverages
Resources
Sug gested Menus
Kerala Tourist Map
Travel Resources
Where to Eat
Recipe Index
Photograph Sources
Acknowledgements
Foreword
T ellicherry. I knew it was in Kerala, on the
Malabar Coast. I had heard the name
associated with pepper. But it wasn’t until I
was despatched there on an assignment for
Gourmet Traveller, a magazine for which I am
loftily designated as Editor at Large, that I
discovered not only the charm of the place,
but also Ayisha Manzil, a beautiful Malabari
bungalow, perched high on a cliff overlooking
the Arabian Sea. It had all the memorabilia of
a multi-layered colonial past: wide verandas,
vast rooms, antique carved four-posters hung
with mosquito-nets, teak furniture with a
patina that only age and persistent polishing
can provide, old terracotta-tiled floors polished
like glass, faded pictures, clocks, blue-and-
white china and curious glassware. All this plus
an established garden with lanky, undulating
coconut palms, cool canopies of vermilion-
flowered gulmohar, an aquamarine swimming
pool and a terrace with a view to die for.
But the other, more important discoveries
were the owners Chowakkaran Pazhukkatha
Moosa and his wife Faiza, each the embodiment
of hospitality. Moosa is the perfect host,
ebullient, open, generous while Faiza is a
tad more self-effacing, preferring to let her
Leo Schofield
husband deal with the guests’ needs and
demands while she prepares some of the most
exotic, mouth-watering food you could hope to
encounter.
The cuisine of this particular corner of Kerala
is dubbed Mappila, for the Mappila or Muslims
of northern Kerala, and it is this tradition that
Faiza Moosa teaches guests in the kitchen of
her home. As a teacher she is in the very front
rank, calm, brilliantly organised, patient. It
would be difficult for any student to leave one
of her classes without a clear understanding of
the preparation method.
One day she may demonstrate a fish biriyani,
using fillets of a delicious local fish called seer. The
process is relatively simple but the brilliance of the
finished dish lies in the alchemical combination
of a slew of spices – coriander powder, chilli
powder, fresh green chillies, turmeric, cardamom,
clove, garam masala, lime, fresh coriander and
mint leaves, garlic, ginger and saffron. With such
an array of seasonings one could be forgiven for
thinking that the finished dish might end up
tasting either intolerably hot, or that the flavour of
half the spices would neutralise the other half.
No way. Mappila curries are delicate, and the
flavours are simultaneously many and one.
I recall a dinner under a sky of spangled blue
velour. We were served a mild potato and
veal curry, sampled chemmeen varattiyathu
(tamarind prawns with a kicky-spiced gravy) and
vaattilappam, a kind of Indian crème caramel
made with egg, palm sugar, coconut milk and
cashews and steamed rather than baked.
The kitchen in which these remarkable
dishes are prepared is at the heart of the house,
a vast space with fluorescent lights, shiny
stainless steel benches and fittings which
contrast dramatically with the fragile, cool, dark
colonial ambience of the rest of the place. In
her pale sari, Faiza moves elegantly around her
domain. Her preparation is meticulous. Each
spice is measured in precise quantity, placed
in a shallow white china dish and laid out in
the order in which it will be used. Those like
mustard seeds and cardamom pods that need
heat to pop and release their heady flavours are
closest to the iron pan; powdered and chopped
flavourings further away.
I am not the only person to have fallen in love
with this food, the place where it is prepared and
served and the two beautiful human beings who
animate it. My good friend Christine Manfield is
another disciple. Manfield, who runs the starry
Universal Restaurant in Sydney, named in 2008
by Food & Wine magazine as one of the ten best
new restaurants in the world, is a fiend for spices.
She’s written a book on the subject and confesses
freely to having been influenced by Ayisha Manzil.
Indeed, a whole chapter is dedicated to this
magical place.
‘Faiza’s use of spices is so subtle, so nuanced,’ says
Manfield. ‘I have learned so much from her.’
So have some of the keen cooks Manfield
has brought here on tours she has led to India.
And so will readers of this book. What, alas,
readers will not experience is the paradisiacal
beauty of the place, the sunrise visit to the local
market, the warmth of Moosa and Faiza and
the definitive versions of the dishes contained
between these covers.
For that you must, and should, visit
Tellicherry.
Leo Schofield is a well-known restaurant critic,
advertising professional and arts festival
director in Australia. Based in Sydney, he
contributes to numerous publications: The
Australian, Vogue, Gourmet Traveller and The
Sydney Morning Herald.
Theyyam, a ritual dance native to north Kerala, is performed in temples to evoke the
local deities and ancestral spirit. The word ‘theyyam’ is a corruption of ‘daivam’, God. It
is said that while performing the dance, the dancer enters into a trance and becomes a
manifestation of the deity or spirit.
Introduction

F
or the gourmet, a journey through Kerala This book presents the regional cuisine of
provides some food for thought. Regarded as Malabar – its origin, evolution and many of its
a tropical paradise, this coastal state lying in unique recipes.
the extreme south of India is all of 39,863 square
kilometres. Minuscule on the map yet it presents
an astonishing array of foods, astonishing because
when you look at the countryside all you see is
the green of rice paddies, banana plantations and
coconut trees, and the blue of rivers, lagoons and
teeming seas. Notwithstanding the axiom that
the landscape usually lands up on your dinner-
plate, a food odyssey through Kerala is a revelatory
experience. You may travel for weeks and not
eat exactly the same thing twice. While rice and
coconut are de rigueur on the Malayali menu, there
are so many unusual ways of preparing them that
your palate is constantly pleasured.
Rice and coconut provide body to the Malayali
cuisine, but its character comes from many
different sources. For the local people what you
cook and eat depends largely on your provenance.
Who you are by birth and ancestral occupation,
which faith – Hindu, Christianity or Islam – you
follow, where your forefathers originally came
from, and in which part of Kerala you now live. The
resulting disparity in food tastes, preferences and
cooking styles makes for a rich smorgasbord of For Malayalis, rice is a food that nourishes in a way no other can.
sub-cuisines. It is the kernel around which all of Kerala’s culinary traditions are
built.
Ancient Aromas
Where is Malabar? Once, the entire 580 kilometre
coastline of Kerala was known by this name. Today
the region stretches from the district of Palakkad in
the south to the district of Kasaragod in the north.
The big city here is Kozhikode. It was known as
Calicut when the Portuguese navigator Vasco da
Gama landed here in 1498. There are other historic
ports in the region: Kannur, Beypore, Thalassery
and Panthalayini Kollam. Right from 1000 BC,
when King Solomon’s fleet came to this coast, all
The lure of spices drew foreign traders to Malabar. This, in turn,
influenced the region’s cuisine.
manner of seafaring vessels – Roman mercantile
ships, lateen-rigged Arab dhows, Chinese junks,
Portuguese caravels and British East Indiamen
– have touched these shores. Malabar, lying
between latitudes 8º and 12º N, longitude 74º E,
was once the hub of world trade. Though gold,
ivory, peacocks and cotton cloth were among the
exports, spices were numero uno. With its unique
wealth of cinnamon, cardamom, cassia, ginger,
turmeric and pepper, Kerala was the spice garden
of the ancient world.
In those days, spices were objects of desire.
They were rare, coming from places that weren’t
even on the map. Their heady fragrances added
to the mystique. Spices were sacred; in the time
of Moses, the Hebrew lawgiver, cinnamon and
cassia were burnt in Jewish temple ceremonies.
By and by their role became more hedonic. While
it was believed that spices stimulated appetite
and aided digestion, they were valued because
their tantalising flavours spelt salvation for
the bland European palates. The Romans were
the first major users of Kerala’s pepper. They
developed an absolute passion for it. Almost
85% of the recipes in a fourth century cookbook
by the Roman gourmet Apicius list pepper as
an ingredient. Dishes such as curried crane and
peppered partridge set the gold standard for fine
dining. If that wasn’t enough to impress dinner
guests, a Roman matron could always serve wines
spiked with ginger and chilled cinnamon-flavoured
fruit juice. Spices gratified the tastes of the rich
and famous in other ways – they were used in
luxury goods like cosmetics, perfumes, ointments,
aphrodisiacs and air fresheners.
In the journey from their sources to the
Mediterranean ports, and onwards to the markets
of Europe, spices travelled through long and
circuitous routes via a complex network of sailing
ships and desert caravans. The Arabs were the
greatest beneficiaries of the trade. It was the
Arab sailors who obtained the spices, and Arab
lands that the precious cargoes passed through;
changing hands several times, gaining value with
each transaction. This carried on for centuries.
Called ‘kaithachakka’ in Malayalam, the sweet and succulent pineapple is a native of South America. The Portuguese introduced it to
India, along with other foreign produce – papaya, guava, sapodilla, tomato and chilli.

On a Wind and a Prayer begun to flourish like the proverbial bay tree.
That this happened simultaneously with the
rise of Islam was no coincidence. Spice trading
In the first century, Hippalos, a Greek navigator
played a significant role in the diffusion of
who is regarded as the Columbus of his times,
the faith. It is well known that
caught on to the secret which Arab sailors had
Prophet Muhammad had links
guarded all this while: that the monsoon winds
with the trade. His first
of the Arabian Sea followed a pattern. In summer,
wife Khadija was the
they would propel a ship sailing from Egypt’s Red
widow of a spice trader.
Sea directly to the Malabar Coast. In winter, they
Many of those who
would reverse direction and propel it back again.
embraced the new faith
The journey, one way, took about a month. It could
were in the business.
be attempted by anyone with access to the Red
From the seventh to the
Sea. Over the next 200 years, Rome, the largest
tenth century, as Islam
consumer of spices, developed extensive trade links
expanded its power
with Malabar. Gold aurei and silver denarii dating
base, the Arabs gained
back to the period have been found at several
a monopoly of the
locations in Kerala.
spice trade. It remained
Fast forward to the seventh century. The
unchallenged till
Roman Empire is long gone. The Arabs are
da Gama’s arrival in
once again driving the spice trade and it has
Calicut.

An uru, a sail ship made of wood, under construction. The uru is
entirely handmade and is native to Beypore near Kozhikode.
The Mappila of Malabar
It is said that within a generation of the Prophet’s
death, Islam had reached Malabar. Arab merchants
from Aden and Hadramawt in Yemen, and Dhofar
in Oman, were the early conduits through which
the faith crossed the Arabian Sea. They were no
strangers; their ancestors had been coming to
the region for generations. Thus, Islam got a good
reception in Malabar. Its teachings were called
the fourth Vedam (Vedam refers to revelation
or knowledge, the other three being Hinduism,
Christianity and Judaism).
The Samoothiri Rajas, Zamorins of Calicut,
patronised the new faith. They gave privileges to
Muslims, such as land to build their mosques.
One of the earliest mosques in India was built
in Kodungallur, probably in the twelfth century.
Many of the local fishermen converted to Islam,
thus creating a new community called Puthu-
Islam, ‘New Islam’. As Islam is a casteless creed,
the conversions raised the social standing of
the converts. Furthermore, the taboos that
prevented many Hindus from crossing the seas
were removed, giving the Zamorins a seafaring
mercantile community that they needed in order
to boost trade.
By the time the incurably peripatetic Ibn Batuta
came by in 1342, Calicut was a boom town. This is
what he had to say,
‘Qaliqut is one of the chief ports in Mulaibar.
It is visited by men from China, Jawah, Ceylon,
the Maldives, al-Yaman and Fars, and in it gathers
merchants from all quarters. Its harbour is the
largest in the world. We entered it in great pomp,
the like of which I have never seen in those lands.’
There was even a flourishing diaspora. An Arab
businessman, Nakhuda Mishkal, built a mosque
in 1300 in the part of Calicut known as Kuttichira,
that later became the heart of the Muslim
settlement.
As mentioned earlier, Arab merchant traffic to
Malabar depended on the monsoon winds. In the
four-month period between the southwest and
the northeast monsoons, the traders remained
in Malabar, conducting their business. They also
made temporary alliances with local women
through a form of marriage, which involved
the paying of mahr, bride price.
These alliances were facilitated
by the matrilineal system, a
longstanding Kerala tradition.
In this system, the woman
did not have to give up her
share in ancestral property;
nor did she leave home after
marriage. Furthermore, the
woman retained custody
of any children born of
the union. Thus an
indigenous Muslim
community, made
up of those with Arab blood,
took root in Kerala. They were
called Mappila. The word could
have come from Maha Pillai,
meaning someone ‘held in high esteem’; Mapillai
also means ‘bridegroom’. The local converts, too,
were identified by this name.
With sea blood in their veins, it was only natural
that the Mappila manned the Zamorin’s navy. The
boat-building trade, too, was largely their domain.
Even today, Beypore’s shipbuilders are mostly from
the Mappila community. When a ship is ready the
services of a khalasi are employed to launch it.
The word is derived from the Arabic root, khalaas,
meaning ‘to release’.
Today, roughly 20% of Kerala’s population
comprises of Muslims. Mappila form the majority.
They live mostly in Malabar, and belong to the
Shafi’i school of jurisprudence within Sunni Islam.
Their language is a mix of Malayalam and Arabic.
Bearing little resemblance to their co-religionists
in other parts of India, in language, appearance
and custom, the Mappila subscribe to the larger
Malayali identity that they share with Kerala’s
Hindus and Christians. When it comes to food,
however, the story takes an interesting turn.

A Symphony of Flavours reflects the way we live. Mappila cuisine embodies

this. It owes its uniqueness to certain foods and
certain attitudes towards food. Paramount among
Malabar’s cuisine is the synthesis of two different
the latter is the belief that food is one of life’s
culinary traditions. As in the case of a newborn,
greatest pleasures. The Qur’an praises it as God’s
where relatives of the parents lay claim to this or
gift to humanity. Food, it says, should be eaten
that family likeness, it is tempting to carry out a
sparingly; it should also be shared. In Malabar,
culinary DNA matching with recipes as the genetic
fasting and feasting are taken seriously.
code. For example, the abundant use of coconut –
clearly a Malayali trait. But ghee? In a land where
coconut oil reigns supreme, how did ghee, clarified
butter, inveigle its way into the Mappila kitchen?
Some might say that the nomadic Bedouins of
Arabia use it, they call it samn. They might add that
the Mappila predilection for mutton, manifesting
itself in varied avatars, such as sheep’s head, served
at weddings, is also an Arab legacy. The argument
could be stretched to cooking techniques. The
belief that food must ‘surprise’ the eater is the
raison d’être for many stuffed dishes in the Middle
East. One Mappila recipe has hard-boiled egg
buried in a whole chicken, which is encased in a
‘pillow’ of dough. The love of layering – think of the
Turkish baklava and the Yemeni bint-al-sahn – is
mirrored in the Mappila dessert, chatti pathiri.
Yes, when you look at Malabar’s recipes, there are
overlaps from cultures and kitchens beyond these
shores. But they only account for the corpus and
contours of the cuisine. Where does its soul come
from? Malik ibn Dinar, the Arab who is credited with bringing Islam to
Malabar, built nine mosques. The mosque at Kasaragod is named
after him. The only surviving one, it is a mix of local Kerala and
Food is never only about food. The way we eat Islamic architecture.

Fast Food
Ramadan, the ninth month of the lunar
calendar, is dedicated to fasting and prayers.
During the 29 or 30 days, from one new moon
to the next, the devout avoid eating or drinking
between sunrise and sunset. At the appointed
hour, the fast is broken with a few dates and a
light beverage. Tea and snacks follow communal
prayers.
This is the time of the year when Mappila
women turn their hand to snack-making in a big
way. Alisa, a wheat-and-meat potage, also eaten
in Syria, Lebanon and Iraq, is a Ramadan special.
Among the popular snacks are ripe Malabar
bananas sautéed in ghee; meat and egg stuffed
into wheat flour poori; jalebi made from egg;
samosas filled with roasted semolina, sugar and
Kozhikode is famous for the Kerala halwa made from rice flour,
coconut milk and jaggery.
cashew nut; dry
dates, stuffed
with cashew
nuts, dipped
in an egg-rich
batter flavoured
with cardamom,
and fried.
One recipe has
rice flour, coconut milk
and egg kneaded into dough, of which tiny balls
are deep-fried and mixed with morsels of crisp-
fried mutton. Another requires a bread loaf
to be hollowed, stuffed with scrambled eggs,
nuts and raisins, sealed, dipped in egg batter
and cooked in sugar syrup. If all this leaves
you dumbfounded, listen to this: a batter of
rice and egg is whipped to a huge froth, which
is ladled into boiling hot oil. Up comes this
white fluffy mountain that is drained, broken,
sprinkled with sugar and eaten with mashed
bananas.
Dinner is meant to fortify the eater for the
next day’s fasting. Ergo, it is a spread. This is
when the pathiri rules. Pathiri is a uniquely
Mappila creation. The simplest one, podi
pathiri, is made from rice flour. It resembles
the north Indian chapatti, in that it is thin,
griddle-roasted, unleavened circular bread.
But pathiri, as a genre, displays a complexity
and diversity not seen in other Indian breads.
Besides rice flour, pathiri can be made from rice
batter. It may be deep-fried like poori, it can
also be steamed. It can be eaten with curry and
can also be a stand-alone dish. One version of
pathiri has steamed balls of rice batter, soaked
in stewed meat, while another has meat or
fish sandwiched between two layers of rice
batter and steamed. Most kinds of pathiri are
made from rice, but there are also others that
are made with wheat and bran. Pathiris are
of both types, savoury and sweet. Stacked in
layers interspersed with dry fruits, they become
elaborate desserts. An orotti is a thicker form of
pathiri. All in all, there are at least 50 different
types of pathiri.

A Mappila bride (centre) is being accompanied by two older
Mappila women to the maniyara, the newly furnished bedroom,
for the garland-exchanging ceremony.
The World of the Kitchen
This gave her the leisure to master the culinary
skills. She could also afford to hire kitchen help for
all the laborious tasks such as grating, grinding
and pounding. All this has contributed to the
extraordinary flowering of the cuisine.
Cooking was a woman’s art. Recipes were
heirlooms passed from mother to daughter
through the listen-watch-learn method. The
tharavad kitchen was big. In those that have
survived, several kitchens running cheek-by-jowl
now share the space. Though modern technology,
in the form of the gas stove, pressure cooker, food
processor and refrigerator, has been introduced
into the kitchen, the leaning towards traditional
practices remains. Meat, fowl and fish have to
be fresh. Vegetables and herbs are garden-fresh.
Need coconut milk? Start by grating the coconut.
When biriyani is made for a festive meal, the exact
number of coconut husks, used as fuel for the
hearth, is specified so that the rice and meat are
cooked just so.

Who has the time, energy and wherewithal

to prepare this kind of food? The truth is that
though life in Malabar is changing, the matrilineal
tradition endures, especially in north Malabar.
The tharavad, Malayali ancestral home, was its
bedrock. A tharavad was designed for a clan. In
Malabar, traditional family businesses included
dhow-building and trading in spices, food grain
and timber. Till a few decades ago, the tharavad
was built with anything between 30–40 rooms,
and were known to accommodate as many as 200
people at a time. After the wedding, the woman
continued to live there with her husband and
children. Assured of a roof and financial security
The traditional attire of the Mappila women bears vestiges of the
she did not have to go out to work for a living. Middle Eastern provenance.
Festive Food
Conviviality is a trademark of the Mappila. What
better reason for festivity than a wedding?
Marriages are arranged in Malabar. The feasting
begins several days before the nuptials, and
continues for weeks afterwards. During this time
the traditional cuisine is showcased in all its glory.
For these feasts, the Mappila follow a communal
eating pattern that requires the placing of a
circular palm leaf mat called supra, around which
10 people can sit and eat off a large common
plate. It is hard to say when precisely the main
meal begins. The appetisers are numerous and
elaborate. At some point breads make their entry for it, as soon as he wakes up, with a customary
in a procession of pathiri, flaky wheat parotta and dish of sautéed bananas and half-boiled eggs. A
soft, lacy appam, along with a flotilla of meat and bounteous buffet follows. It includes brain masala,
chicken dishes. Then follows biriyani accompanied fried liver, spicy prawns, mutton and chicken curry,
by date pickle, coconut chutney and raita, a yogurt- accompanied by the choicest breads of Malabar,
based relish. not to forget loads of snacks. For the next 40 days
After the wedding, the bridegroom moves in with he is treated to this rich fare. Some families even
his wife. In his new home, he is referred to as get professional women cooks to stay with them
puthiyapilla, ‘new boy’, for the rest of his life. for the entire period so that the bridegroom is
His first breakfast is a big event. He is prepared served nothing but the best.

Communal eating is a part of the Muslim tradition. Here, Mappila men sit down for a wedding feast.
Malabar is justly famous for its biriyanis. The mutton biriyani is the highlight of a wedding meal.
The Biriyanis of Malabar
Certain dishes are connected only with weddings.
For instance, nei choru (ghee rice) and the
legendary egg-yolk sweet, mutta maala. On the
wedding day, it has to be mutton biriyani. It is said
that the biriyani, a layered meat and rice dish, was
invented in the kitchens of the Mughals. It proved
to be surprisingly amenable to local adaptation.
Today, wherever there is a
Muslim community in
India there is a biriyani,
sometimes as many
as six. Even in this
crowd, the Malabar
biriyani stands out.
It is fluffy, fragrant
and altogether
less greasy and
spicy than the rest
of its ilk. Unlike
the Mughal biriyani, meat is not marinated in a
mixture of curds and spices. The delicate, finely
balanced flavours come from the special eight-
spice powder that is the Mappila garam masala. In
composition it differs from all other types of Indian
garam masala. For one, pepper is not an ingredient.
It is considered too strong, killing all other flavours.
In fact, it doesn’t figure in Mappila food at all. For
their biriyanis, the Mappila prefer the short-grained
variety of rice, jeerige shala.
Besides mutton and chicken biriyani, Malabar
has unusual seafood biriyanis. The fish biriyani,
in particular, is stupendous. A tinge of rosewater
takes away the fishiness so that what you get
smells good and tastes like ambrosia. Interestingly,
Arab cuisine, too, has seafood and rice combos.
Given the fact that it was not the Mughals, but
the monsoon winds that introduced the faith to
Malabar, one wonders if the Malabar biriyani was
not a product of the same process of synthesis –
foreign cooking styles married to local ingredients
– that created the Mappila cuisine?
Seafood, though everyday fare, is not just fish curry and rice. Mussels, squid and crustaceans are transformed into simple, yet
delectable dishes.

Fish: the Constant Love many different ways. A specialty of Malabar

is kallumakkai, the green-lipped mussel found
along the coast, that is eaten curried, stuffed or
Everyday Mappila food is not rich. Nor has it
fried.
been subjected to much experimentation.
In the cooking of fish, coconut oil is used.
Vegetable dishes, though few in number, are
The curries are hot, but not overly so. Besides
simple and tasty. Lentils don’t figure on the
tamarind and tomato, there are some unusual
menu. Breakfast is the steamed puttu, eaten
souring agents, such as dried gooseberries
everywhere in Kerala. In Malabar, it may
and unripe mango. Again, the emphasis is on a
incorporate meat or fish. Dinner, too, is light,
composite dish: smell, texture and flavour are
often just pathiri and kanji, rice gruel. While this
just right.
may seem a trifle lacklustre for a community
As everywhere in Kerala, religion and history
that loves to eat well, the truth is that seafood
serve at the Malabar table, too. But its character
provides daily eating pleasure. Lunch is usually
comes from the extraordinary generosity of the
fish curry and rice. Though there are special
Mappila spirit. Ingredients, recipes, dishes –
celebratory dishes like whole stuffed pomfret,
finally, how does it matter what was one’s own
what is eaten day in and day out is the ‘catch
and what was adopted. What is common and
of the day’. Squid, prawn, crab, mussels,
what is foreign. Kerala has never thought in
oysters, sardines, mackerel, tuna, mullet,
those terms. That is the beauty of it.
pomfret, kingfish and whitebait are cooked in
The wood-embellished interior of a north Kerala Muslim ancestral
home exudes an old world charm.

Classic Malabar Recipes 23

Snacks & Starters

In Malabar, snacks range from

teatime morsels, like banana
fritters and rice froth pancakes,
to bread stuffed with shredded
meat and hard-boiled egg.
Steamed rice paste dumplings,
filled with prawn or mussel, are
a local delicacy.

Alisa; Kiskiya
Appam Nirachathu
Petti Pathiri; Omana Pola
Chemmeen Ada
Kallumakkai Unda
Ari Kadukka
Unnakkai
Kelanji
Classic Malabar Recipes 25
 Alisa
Wheat grain and meat potage
This porridge-like preparation is popular
during Ramadan. Prepared alisa wheat can
be bought in grocery stores. If that is not
available, any white wheat can be used.

Ingredients Method
200 gms boneless mutton/ Dice the mutton/chicken. Cook it with the next seven ingredients
chicken
and sufficient water on low heat. Stir the contents frequently till the
250 gms white wheat
water is absorbed and the grains are soft. Depending on the quality
1 onion, sliced
¼ tsp crushed ginger of the wheat, this can take up to an hour. Remove the pan from the
¼ tsp crushed garlic heat. Mash the contents with a wooden spoon to get a porridge-like
2½ in cinnamon sticks consistency. Heat 2½ tbsp ghee. Fry the shallots till brown. Garnish
3 cloves the potage with fried shallots. To finish, drizzle the remaining ghee
5 tbsp ghee over the dish. Serve alisa hot, with a sprinkling of sugar.
4–5 shallots, chopped
Salt VARIATIONS
Sugar Kiskiya
This is a vegetarian dish, so omit the meat. Besides the rest of the
Serves
listed ingredients, you will need 200 ml thick milk and 400 ml thin
milk extracted from half a coconut.
Cook the wheat in water with all the listed ingredients (except
the last three), till the grains are half-cooked. Add the thin coconut
milk and cook till the wheat is soft. Then add the thick milk. Allow the
potage to simmer for a few minutes. Garnish with ghee and shallots.
Classic Malabar Recipes 27
Ingredients
4 loaves of bread (4 in square)
For the stuffing
350 gms boneless lamb/beef
Salt
1 tsp red chilli powder
2 tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp sunflower oil
250 gms onions, chopped
6 green chillies, chopped
½ tsp ginger paste
½ tsp garlic paste
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
1 sprig curry leaves
¼ tsp garam masala
4 hard-boiled eggs
For the batter
2 eggs Appam Nirachathu
2 tbsp milk
4 tbsp ghee Bread stuffed with shredded meat
Salt
Appam nirachathu requires a special size
Serves of white bread. It can be substituted with a
plain bun of 4 in diameter, in which case take
half a hard-boiled egg for the filling.

Method
Lightly scrape the hard crust of the loaf. At one end, cut out a disc of
1 in diameter. Keep it aside. Scoop out a little portion of the bread
and make a hollow in the loaf.
Cook the meat in a pan with sufficient water, salt and the spice
powders. When the water has dried up and the meat is tender,
remove from the heat. Cool and shred the meat. Heat oil in a pan. Fry
the chopped onions, green chillies, ginger and garlic pastes, green
coriander and curry leaves till the mixture turns a light brown. Add
the shredded meat and garam masala. Stir for a few minutes and
remove from the heat.
Stuff some meat filling into the loaf. Insert a hard-boiled egg,
followed by more of the filling. Close the end of the loaf with the
disc that was cut out earlier. Repeat the process with the remaining
loaves.
Beat together eggs, milk and salt. Brush the loaf with this. Heat
ghee in a skillet and shallow-fry the loaf. For serving slice the loaf
vertically.
Petti Pathiri
Fried squares stuffed with shredded meat
Petti pathiri gets its name from petti, ‘box’. A popular Ramadan snack,
it also doubles up as a starter in a festive menu.

Method Ingredients
Dice the beef/lamb. Cook it with spice powders, salt and sufficient For the filling
water till it is tender and completely dry. Cool and shred it. Heat oil 250 gms boneless beef/lamb
in a skillet. Fry onions, green chillies, curry leaves, coriander leaves, Salt
ginger and garlic till the onions turn soft. Add the cooked shredded 1 tsp red chilli powder
meat and sauté for a few more minutes. Add garam masala. Remove 2 tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
from the heat and keep aside.
2 tbsp sunflower oil
Knead together the two types of flour with a pinch of salt and
250 gms onions, finely chopped
sufficient water into soft dough. Pinch off 10 lemon-sized balls. Roll 5 green chillies, chopped
out each ball into a disc of 5 in diameter. Cut the edges to make a 1 sprig curry leaves
square. Repeat the process to get a second square. Spread 2 tbsp 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
meat filling on one square; place an egg-half in the centre. Place the ½ tsp crushed ginger
second square on top and pinch the edges to seal the petti tightly. ½ tsp crushed garlic
Heat oil in a wok and deep-fry to a golden brown. ¼ tsp garam masala
2 hard-boiled eggs, halved
lengthwise
For the pathiri
200 gms wheat flour
200 gms refined flour
Salt
Oil for frying

Serves

For the pancake

VARIATIONS
2 eggs
Omana Pola (Stuffed pancakes) 250 gms refined flour
Salt
Prepare the filling as in the above recipe.
Oil for frying
For the pancakes: Beat the eggs. Add flour, a pinch of salt and enough
water to make a thin batter. Prepare pancakes of 6 in diameter. Place
Makes 10 omana polas
2 tbsp filling in the centre of the pancake. Fold the sides to get a
rectangle. Deep-fry the stuffed pancake to a light brown.

Ingredients
200 gms parboiled rice
Salt
½ coconut, grated
250 gms prawns
2 tsp red chilli powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
4 tbsp sunflower oil
200 gms onions, chopped
3 green chillies, chopped
1 sprig curry leaves
1 tsp crushed ginger
3 flakes garlic, crushed
1 tomato, chopped
2 tsp coriander powder
200 ml water
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
¼ tsp garam masala
Makes 5–8 adas
Chemmeen Ada
Steamed prawn dumplings
Prawns, cooked in a spicy masala, form
the filling for these crescent-shaped rice
dumplings.
Method
Soak the rice in an open pan of hot water for 4–5 hours. Wash and
drain the rice. Add salt and half of the grated coconut. Mix well and
grind to a smooth thick paste.
Marinate the prawns in salt, 1 tsp chilli powder and a pinch
of turmeric powder for 10 minutes. Heat 2 tbsp oil and sauté the
prawns till they change colour to light brown. Keep aside.
In the remaining oil, sauté onions, green chillies and curry leaves
till the onions are soft. Add ginger, garlic and tomato. When the
tomato is soft, add the remaining chilli and turmeric powders,
and the coriander powder. Stir for a minute. Add water and salt.
While the sauce simmers, extract half cup (100 ml) thick milk from
the remaining grated coconut. Add the coconut milk, coriander
leaves and garam masala to the sauce. Bring it to the boil. Add the
fried prawns. Allow the sauce to simmer for a few minutes before
removing. It should be thick at this stage.
Oil your palm. Make 6–8 balls from the dough. Take a square
piece of banana leaf or a bit of kitchen foil. Place the ball on it and
flatten it into a disc of 5 mm thickness. Spread 1 tbsp of the prawn
masala along one half of the disc. Fold the other half over it to form
a crescent. Press the edges gently with your fingers. Steam the
crescents for 15–20 minutes. Cool and serve.
Kallumakkai Unda Ingredients
For the dumplings
Steamed mussel dumplings 400 gms parboiled rice
Salt
Mussels, fried with onions and grated For the filling
coconut, make an exotic filling for steamed 25 mussels
rice dumplings. 1 tsp red chilli powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
¼ coconut, freshly grated
2 tbsp sunflower oil
Method ½ tsp mustard seeds
Soak the rice in hot water for 4–5 hours. Wash, drain, add salt and 1 sprig curry leaves
grind the rice with a little water to a smooth thick paste. Keep aside. 250 gms onions, finely chopped
Scrape, debeard and wash the mussels. Steam them for 5 green chillies, chopped
40 minutes. Cool and remove the flesh from the shells. Wash them 1 tsp ginger paste
clean. Chop roughly; keep aside. Add chilli and turmeric powders 1 tsp garlic paste
to the grated coconut; mix well. Heat oil in a pan. Crackle mustard 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
Salt
seeds and add curry leaves. Put in the chopped onion, green chillies,
Garam masala, a pinch
ginger and garlic pastes and coriander leaves. Sauté till the onions
begin to brown, put in the mussels and salt. Stir well. Add the grated
coconut and garam masala. Stir for a few minutes. Remove and cool. Makes 15–18 kallumakkai
Make lemon-sized balls from the rice dough. (If it is not thick undas
enough, add rice powder to get the right consistency.) Grease your
palm with a little oil. Flatten the ball to form a disc of 3 in diameter.
Place 1 tbsp of the filling in it. Shape this into a dumpling. Place all
the dumplings into a steamer and steam for about
45 minutes. Remove and cool before serving.
Ingredients
For the rice paste filling
450 gms parboiled rice
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp aniseed
2 pods green cardamom
½ coconut, grated
50 gms shallots, chopped
Salt
25 mussels, scraped, debearded,
washed
For the masala
3 tbsp red chilli powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp aniseed powder
2 cloves
2 pods green cardamom
1 small stick cinnamon
½ in piece ginger
2 flakes garlic
½ tbsp chopped coriander leaves
1 sprig curry leaves
Salt
Oil for frying
Makes 25 ari kadukkas
Ari Kadukka
Fried stuffed mussels
Fresh mussels, stuffed with rice paste, are
gently steamed, marinated in spices and
deep-fried to make this appetiser.
Method
Soak parboiled rice in an open pan of hot water for 4–5 hours. Drain
the rice.
Powder together cumin seeds, aniseed and green cardamom
pods. Mix the rice with grated coconut, chopped shallots, powdered
spices, salt and a little water. Grind to a smooth thick paste. Keep
aside.
With a knife, carefully open each mussel halfway but do not
separate the sides. Drain the water. Stuff the mussels with the rice
paste. Steam till done (about 45 minutes). When the mussels are
cool, remove the shell. The flesh inside should stick to the steamed
rice dough.
Grind the ingredients for the masala with a little water. Marinate
the stuffed mussels in the ground masala for 30 minutes. Heat oil in
a wok and fry the mussels to brown. Remove and serve.
Classic Malabar Recipes 33
Ingredients Unnakkai
3 semi-ripe Malabar bananas
3 eggs
3 tbsp sugar
Banana cotton buds
3 pods green cardamom, Unnakkai gets its name from the pod of the
powdered
1 tbsp ghee cotton tree. It is made from steamed ripe
1 tbsp chopped cashew nuts plantain paste.
1 tbsp raisins
Oil for frying

Makes 8 unnakkais Method

Steam the bananas till the skin splits. Cool and peel. Put the bananas
in a blender and make a smooth paste without any water. Beat eggs
with sugar and powdered cardamom. Heat ghee in a frying pan. Fry
the nuts and raisins. Add the beaten eggs and stir well. Remove and
cool.
Make 7–8 balls from the mashed banana paste. Oil your palm well.
Place a ball in the centre. Flatten it slightly to get a 3 in diameter circle.
Put 1 tbsp scrambled eggs in the centre. Fold the edges neatly. Shape
into an oblong and taper off the two ends. Heat oil in a wok and deep-
fry the ‘cotton buds’ to a golden brown. Drain and serve warm.
Kelanji
Rice froth crêpes with sweet coconut filling
These crêpes have a delicate appearance and a light texture. The sweet
coconut filling makes them a teatime snack as well as a dessert.

Method Ingredients
Soak the rice in water for 2–3 hours. 200 gms basmati rice/kaima rice
1 tbsp sugar
In a pan, mix sugar, cardamom powder and grated coconut with
2 pods green cardamom,
a little water. Cook on low heat till the water is absorbed. Put in
powdered
chopped nuts and raisins. Beat 1 egg and add it to the mix. Add 1 ½ coconut, grated
tbsp ghee. Stir well. Remove and keep aside for later use. 1 tbsp chopped cashew nuts
Wash and drain the rice. Grind it with the remaining 2 eggs to 1 tbsp raisins
a very fine batter. Add enough water to make a thin batter (as for 3 eggs
pancakes). With the help of an electric blender, beat this batter for at 1 tbsp ghee
least 5 minutes. At this stage, thick froth forms at the top. Remove
the froth into a small bowl. Makes 6 kelanjis
Grease a non-stick tava (griddle) lightly. Ladle enough of the froth
to make a disc of 4 in diameter. When the crêpe is ready, gently lift it
onto a plate. Put 2 tbsp of the sweet egg-coconut filling in the middle
and roll the crêpe lengthwise. Continue to make crêpes till the batter
and the filling are over.
Tip: This recipe needs two people, one to beat the froth, the other to
make the crêpes.
Puttu & Pathiri

In Kerala, rice provides the daily

bread. For this purpose it is
pounded into flour or ground
into batter. The breads include
the famed appam, the steamed
puttu and the tava-roasted
pathiri, popular in Malabar.

Puttu; Erachi Puttu

Adukkorotti
Erachi Adukkorotti
Mutta Sirka
Appam
Kameer
Nei Pathiri
Kannan Pathiri
Vatti Pathiri
Meen Pathiri
Classic Malabar Recipes 37
Ingredients Puttu
200 gms rice flour, coarsely
ground and roasted
Salt
Steamed rice bread
½ coconut, grated Puttu is made in a special vessel, the puttukutti.
Serves
It is eaten for breakfast with a spicy Bengal
gram curry or with ripe bananas and sugar.

Method
Combine rice flour with salt. Sprinkle just enough water to moisten
the mixture. Rub the flour between your fingers to get a breadcrumbs-
like texture.
Fill three-quarter of the pot with water and boil it. Sprinkle 1 tbsp
grated coconut on the perforated disc of the puttukutti, a cylindrical
mould. Empty a handful of rice flour over the coconut layer. Repeat the
alternating coconut and rice flour layers till you reach the top of the
mould. Cover the mould with the lid and place it on the mouth of the
pot. When steam begins to emerge through the holes in the lid, the
puttu is ready. Steam for another 5 minutes, then lift the mould off the
pot. Gently push the puttu out on to a serving dish.

Ingredients Erachi Puttu

For the mince
250 gms minced meat Steamed mince and rice bread
Salt
1 tsp red chilli powder In Malabar, the plain puttu gets meaty with the
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
addition of cooked lamb or beef. Erachi puttu
2 tbsp oil can be eaten alone, or with erachi aanam.
250 gms onions, sliced
6 green chillies, chopped
½ tsp ginger paste Method
½ tsp garlic paste Cook the minced meat with salt, chilli, coriander and turmeric powders
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves and sufficient water till the meat is tender and dry. Keep aside. Fry onions,
¼ tsp garam masala
green chillies, ginger and garlic pastes and coriander leaves in oil. When the
2 tbsp oil
onions turn brown, add the cooked mince. Next, add garam masala. Stir
For the puttu
well and remove from the heat.
1 grated coconut
Combine coconut with rice flour. Sprinkle salt water and work the
500 gms rice flour
mixture with your fingers till it has a grainy, but not lumpy, texture. Layer
Salt
the puttukutti with the mince, followed by rice flour. Continue in this order
till the mould is full. Cover it with the lid and place it over the pot of boiling
Serves
water. After the steam emerges, leave it on for another 5 minutes. Remove
the puttukutti. Gently push the prepared puttu onto a dish. Slice and serve.
 Erachi Puttu

Classic Malabar Recipes 39

Ingredients Adukkorotti
250 gms raw rice
250 gms jeera/kaima rice
1 grated coconut
Layered rice bread
1 tbsp chopped shallots Adukku means ‘to stack’, orotti is bread. Layers
8 pods green cardamom,
powdered of rice batter are steamed to get this tasty
1 egg bread which is eaten with erachi aanam.
4 tbsp ghee

Serves Method
Soak the two types of rice in water for 3–4 hours. Drain the rice. From
the coconut, extract 400 ml thick coconut milk and 200 ml thin milk.
Grind the rice with shallots, cardamom and thick coconut milk. Beat
the egg and mix it with the rice batter. If the batter is too thick, add
enough thin coconut milk to get a pouring consistency.
Take a wide dish (6 in diameter). Grease the inside with ghee.
Place the dish in a steamer. Spread 4 tbsp of batter evenly. Cover and
steam till done. Spread a spoonful of ghee on the cooked layer. Stir
the batter well before pouring another layer. Steam again. Repeat
the process till all the batter is used up. Steam it for another 15–20
minutes to ensure that all the layers are cooked.
Remove the dish from the steamer and tilt it slightly to drain the
excess ghee. Cool the adukkorotti before overturning it on a plate.
Cut it into wedges or diamond shapes. Serve it with erachi aanam or
kozhi aanam.
Note: If raw rice and kaima/jeerige are not available, 500 gms
basmati can be used instead.
Erachi Adukkorotti
Layered mince and rice bread
Plain adukkorotti is transformed into a filling one-dish meal by the
addition of cooked lamb or beef.

Method Ingredients
Prepare the batter as given in the recipe for adukkorotti. Cook meat For the mince
with salt, chilli, coriander and turmeric powders and sufficient water, 400 gms minced meat
till dry. Heat 2 tbsp oil; add sliced onion, green chillies, ginger and 2 tsp red chilli powder
garlic pastes and coriander leaves. Sauté till the onions are soft and 2 tsp coriander powder
light brown. Add the minced meat, garam masala and salt. Fry for a ¼ tsp turmeric powder
Oil
few minutes. Remove from the heat and keep aside.
300 gms onions, sliced
Take a round dish (8 in diameter, 2 in depth). Grease the inside
5 green chillies, chopped
with ghee. Pour 2 ladles of the batter into the dish. Place it in the ½ tsp ginger paste
steamer to cook for about 5 minutes. Lift the lid and apply 1 tsp ½ tsp garlic paste
ghee over the cooked layer. Stir the batter and pour a ladle of it over 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
the cooked layer. Sprinkle with minced meat. Steam for another 5 ¼ tsp garam masala
minutes. Continue this process till the batter and the minced meat Salt
are used up. To make sure all the layers are cooked, steam for another
20 minutes. Remove the dish from the steamer. Allow it to cool. Serves
Overturn onto a plate. Cut into wedges and serve.
Ingredients Mutta Sirka
200 gms parboiled rice
2 eggs
Salt
Rice and egg fritters
125 ml refined oil for frying These fritters are eaten with meat stew or, for
Makes 12 mutta sirkas
breakfast, with sugar syrup.

Method
Soak the rice in water for 5–6 hours. Wash, drain and grind it with
the raw eggs to a very smooth paste, using just enough water to give
a batter of pouring consistency. Add salt to taste.
Heat oil in a deep wok. Pour ¼ cup batter into the oil. When the
fritter puffs up, turn it over. Remove with a slotted spoon.
Appam Ingredients
600 gms raw rice
Rice pancakes ½ coconut, grated
Instant yeast, a pinch
Appam is made in a special pan, the appa 1 cup cooked rice
Salt
chatti. It goes well with meat stew or fish 1 tsp sugar
molly. It is eaten for breakfast with sweetened ½ tsp baking soda
coconut milk.
Makes 15 appams

Method
Soak the rice in water for 4–5 hours. Wash and drain. Grind the rice
with grated coconut, yeast and cooked rice to form a fine batter. Add
salt, sugar and baking soda. Leave the batter to ferment for about
8–10 hours. Place the appa chatti on the stove. Grease it lightly with
oil. Pour in a ladle of batter. Tilt and rotate the pan to spread the
batter evenly. The edges of the appam are lacy and the batter settles
in the middle. Place the pan back on the stove. Cover it with the lid.
The appam is cooked when the edges are slightly crisp.

Classic Malabar Recipes 43

Ingredients
1 tsp instant yeast
500 gms refined flour
1 tsp sugar
1 egg
1 tsp salt
1 tsp poppy seeds
1 tsp black sesame seeds
Oil for frying
Makes 15 kameers
Ingredients
500 gms parboiled rice
½ coconut, grated
½ tsp aniseed, powdered
½ tsp cumin seeds, powdered
2 pods green cardamom,
powdered
2 tbsp chopped shallots
Oil for frying
Makes 15 nei pathiris
Kameer
Leavened bread
Like ‘alchemy’ and ‘chemistry’, kameer
originates from the Arabic alkimiya, meaning
transmutation. This bread goes with chicken
or mutton curry.
Method
Combine yeast with flour, sugar and warm water in a small bowl.
Separate the egg. Add egg yolk, half of the egg white and a pinch of
salt to the mixture. Using just enough water, knead the mix into a
pliant dough. Pinch off medium-sized balls. On a banana leaf square
or a piece of aluminium foil, roll out each ball into a circle of 1 cm
thickness and 3 in diameter. Brush egg white on top, sprinkle poppy
and sesame seeds. Leave aside for 1½ to 2 hours. Heat oil in a wok.
Slip the disc along with the banana leaf into the oil. When the leaf
separates, remove it. Fry the bread to a golden brown.
Nei Pathiri
Rice poori
Ground rice, flavoured with spices, shallots
and coconut, gives these breads a slightly
coarse texture. They go well with coconut
milk based curries of beef or lamb.
Method
Soak rice in hot water for 2–3 hours. Wash, drain and grind it with
grated coconut, powdered spices, shallots and salt to a smooth thick
batter, adding very little water.
Oil your palms and make small balls from the batter. Place the ball on a
piece of banana leaf and flatten it to get a disc of 3 in diameter and
5 mm thickness. Heat oil in a wok. Remove the disc from the leaf and slip
it into the hot oil. Fry to a golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon.
 Nei Pathiri

Classic Malabar Recipes 45

 Kannan Pathiri
Eyelash bread
This deep-fried wheat bread gets its name
from kannu, ‘eye’, because the folds are
patterned to look like an open eye. It is eaten
with mutton, chicken or fish curry.

Ingredients Method
200 gms wheat flour In a bowl, mix the two flours and salt. Knead into a stiff dough using
200 gms refined flour a little water. Spread the dough on a clean surface and continue to
Salt knead till it is smooth and pliant. Make small balls from this dough.
Oil for frying Lightly flour the rolling board; roll out each ball into a thin disc
(6 in diameter). Brush the top with oil. Fold the two opposite sides
Makes 6–8 kannan pathiris towards the centre so that they touch. Then, fold the other two sides
in a similar fashion. What you get is a square. Take each corner and
fold it towards the centre, making an even smaller square. Press with
the heel of your palm. Turn the square over so that the folded side
faces down; roll it out to form a 4 in square.
Heat oil in a wok. Fry one pathiri at a time. The fold of the pathiri
should open out slightly.
Vatti Pathiri
Unleavened rice bread
Made on a tava, like the north Indian chapatti,
vatti pathiri is eaten with meat or fish curry.

Method Ingredients
Boil water in a large pan. Add the rice flour and salt; reduce the heat. 250 ml water
Make a hole in the centre of the flour with a long-handled spoon. 230 gms rice flour
Cover the vessel for a minute. Lift the lid and stir the flour well. Salt
Remove from the heat. Cool the mix and knead the dough. It should 50 ml thick coconut milk
1 tbsp ghee
be moist but not sticky. Pinch off small lime-sized balls. Coat each
ball with dry flour and roll it out into a very thin chapatti. Heat a tava
and place the pathiri on it. After a few seconds, turn it over. When the Makes 15–20 vatti pathiris
pathiri puffs up, remove it from the tava. Just before serving brush
the top surface of the pathiri with coconut milk mixed with ghee.
48 Classic Malabar Recipes
Meen Pathiri
Rice bread stuffed with fish
This steamed rice pathiri, with a tangy fish filling, is a wholesome
snack.

Ingredients
For the pathiri
Method
400 gms parboiled rice
Soak the rice in an open pan of hot water for 3–4 hours. Wash and ½ coconut, grated
drain. Add the next 5 ingredients to the rice. Grind to a very thick 1 tsp aniseed powder
paste. 1 tsp cumin powder
Marinate the fish for 15 minutes in a paste of turmeric and chilli ½ tsp cardamom powder
powders and salt. Heat oil in a frying pan and deep-fry the fillets. 50 gms shallots, sliced
Grind the coconut with all the listed ingredients. Dilute the For the fish fry
coconut paste with 100 ml of water. 500 gms seer fish fillets
For the masala: Heat 2 tbsp oil. Add chopped onions, green chillies, Salt
½ tsp turmeric powder
curry leaves and chopped coriander. Sauté for a few minutes till
1 tbsp red chilli powder
the onions turn transparent. Add minced ginger and garlic, and the
Oil for frying
chopped tomato. When the tomato pieces soften, add the next 3
For the coconut paste
spice powders and stir. Add 200 ml water. When the gravy begins to
1 cup grated coconut
simmer, add the coconut paste. Cook the sauce for 5–10 minutes to
2 cloves
reduce it. Slip in the fried fish and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from
2 pods green cardamom
the heat. ½ tsp aniseed
To assemble the pathiri: Start by oiling your palm. Shape the rice ¼ tsp cumin seeds
paste into an orange-sized ball. Place the ball on a banana leaf or For the masala
a square of aluminium foil. Flatten it to get a disc (5 in diameter, 3 tbsp oil
¼ in thickness). Spread some of the cooked masala on it and top this 300 gms onions, chopped
with a fish fillet. Using another banana leaf square, make a second, 1 green chilli, chopped
slightly smaller, disc. Place this on top of the first one. Seal the edges 12–15 curry leaves
by pressing with your fingertips. Repeat the process till the dough 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
is used up. Steam the pathiri for 40–45 minutes. Cool, remove the ½ in piece ginger, minced
leaves and serve. 4–5 flakes garlic, minced
1 tomato, chopped
1 tbsp coriander powder
1½ tbsp red chilli powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder

Makes 4–5 meen pathiris

Biriyani & Pulao

Mutton biriyani is the pièce de

résistance at weddings, but there are
other equally delicious biriyanis that
use fish and prawns. The preferred
rice for these preparations is the
fine, small-grained, non-aromatic
variety, jeerige shala.

Malabar Chemmeen Biriyani

Meen Biriyani
Mutton/Kozhi Biriyani
Erachi Choru
Semiya Biriyani
Pachakkari Biriyani
Thenga Choru
Nei Choru
Classic Malabar Recipes 51
52 Classic Malabar Recipes
Malabar Chemmeen Biriyani Ingredients
For the prawn masala
Malabar prawn biriyani 500 gms prawns
2 tsp red chilli powder
Cooked prawns are layered with fried onions ½ tsp turmeric powder
and cooked rice. This biriyani is best eaten Salt
3 tbsp sunflower oil
piping hot with date pickle, coconut chutney 3 tbsp ghee
and raita. 500 gms onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp crushed green chillies
1 tbsp crushed ginger
1 tbsp crushed garlic
Method 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
2 tbsp chopped mint leaves
Shell, devein and wash the prawns. Rub them with a paste of 1 tsp 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
chilli powder, ¼ tsp turmeric, salt and a little water. Keep aside for 15 1 tsp coriander powder
minutes. Heat 2 tbsp oil. Fry the prawns to a light brown. 2 tsp garam masala
2 tbsp lemon juice
For the masala: Heat 2 tbsp ghee and sauté 250 gms onions. Add
For the rice
green chillies, ginger, garlic, mint and coriander leaves and tomatoes.
When the tomatoes are soft, add the remaining chilli and turmeric 100 gms ghee
powders and 1 tsp coriander powder. Stir well. Add 500 ml water and 100 ml sunflower oil
3 cloves
salt. Allow the gravy to simmer for a few minutes. Add 1 tsp garam
3 pods green cardamom
masala and lime juice. Now, add fried prawns. Cook till the sauce
1 stick cinnamon
reduces. Remove from the heat. 1 tsp crushed green chillies
Heat the remaining ghee and oil together. Brown the remaining 1 tsp crushed ginger
onions to a crisp. Drain and keep aside. Add the remaining garam 1 tsp crushed garlic
masala to fried onions. Sprinkle half of the fried onions over the 1 tbsp coriander leaves
cooked prawns. Divide the prawns mix in two equal portions. 1 tbsp mint leaves
For the rice: Heat ghee and oil together. Crackle cloves, cardamom 500 gms basmati rice, washed
and cinnamon. Add ginger and garlic pastes, green chillies, coriander and drained
Salt
and mint. Stir well. Add the washed and drained rice. Fry for about 5
minutes. Add salt to taste and sufficient hot water to cook the rice
till nearly done.
Serves
To assemble the biriyani: In a large casserole, arrange a layer of the
cooked prawns. Follow this with a layer of cooked rice. Sprinkle fried
onions over the rice. Repeat these three steps. Cover with a tight lid.
Cook on low heat for 10 minutes. Remove and mix the rice gently
before serving.

Ingredients
500 gms fish (seer/surmai)
1 ½ tbsp red chilli powder
¾ tsp turmeric powder
Salt
Oil for frying fish
200 gms ghee
500 gms onions, finely sliced
2 tsp garam masala
5 pods green cardamom
5 cloves
2 sticks cinnamon
25 gms ginger, crushed
2 pods garlic, crushed
12 green chillies, chopped
1 bunch coriander leaves,
chopped
1 bunch mint leaves, chopped
2 big tomatoes, chopped
1 tbsp coriander powder
500 gms basmati rice, washed
and drained
A pinch of saffron soaked in
1 tbsp rosewater
Serves
Meen Biriyani
Fish biriyani
The fragrance of ghee, saffron and rosewater,
and the flavours of spice and fresh herbs
mingle with the robust taste of fish and rice
in this unusual biriyani.
Method
Cut fish into ½ in thick pieces. Marinate the fish in a paste of
1 tbsp chilli powder, ¼ tsp turmeric powder, salt and a little water for
15 minutes. Heat oil and shallow-fry the fish. Drain excess oil and
keep aside. Heat ghee and fry a third of the sliced onions to a crisp.
Mix 1 tsp garam masala with the fried onions; keep aside. Drain the
ghee and use 2 tbsp of it for the fish masala.
For the fish masala: Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a pan. Add 2 cardamom pods,
2 cloves, 1 stick cinnamon and the rest of the sliced onions. Sauté
till the onions are soft. Add two-thirds each of crushed garlic, ginger,
green chillies, mint and coriander leaves. Add the chopped tomatoes.
Next, add coriander powder and the remaining chilli and turmeric
powders. Stir well. Add 250 ml water. Allow the gravy to simmer for
5–7 minutes. Add 1 tsp garam masala and lime juice. Stir and add the
fried fish. Cook on low heat till the fish is done.
For the rice: Heat ghee, crackle the remaining cloves and cinnamon.
Add the remaining ginger, garlic, green chillies, salt, coriander and
mint leaves. Add the washed and drained rice and fry for 5 minutes.
Add sufficient hot water to cook the rice till done.
To assemble the biriyani: In a large casserole, arrange a layer of the
fish masala. Spread a quarter of the fried onions. For the next layer,
use half of the cooked rice; sprinkle rosewater; garnish with fried
onions. Now, spread the remaining rice. Finish with a sprinkle of
rosewater and a garnish of fried onions. Cover with a lid and place
on low heat for 10 minutes. Serve hot, accompanied by raita, mint-
coconut chutney, date pickle and crisp papad.
Classic Malabar Recipes 55
56 Classic Malabar Recipes
Mutton/Kozhi Biriyani
Mutton/Chicken biriyani
While mutton biriyani is considered the
apotheosis, the chicken version is almost as
sublime. This recipe is used to make both.
Date pickle, coconut chutney and raita
complete the meal.

Method Ingredients
Heat the ghee. Fry a third of the sliced onions to a crisp. Add cashew ¾ cup ghee
nuts and raisins to the frying onions. Remove with a slotted spoon, 600 gms onions, sliced
25 gms cashew nuts
drain and keep aside. Add 1 tsp garam masala to the fried onions.
25 gms raisins
Use the remaining ghee for the meat and rice.
2 tsp garam masala
For the meat masala: In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat half of the 6 pods green cardamom
ghee. Crackle 3 cardamom pods, 3 cloves and 1 stick cinnamon. Add 6 cloves
1 tbsp sliced onions and fry till almost brown. Add the remaining 2 sticks cinnamon
onions and sauté till transparent. Add the chopped tomatoes, three- 200 gms tomatoes, chopped
fourths each of ginger and garlic paste, green chillies, chopped mint 50 gms ginger paste
and coriander leaves. Stir well. Add the mutton/chicken pieces and 50 gms garlic paste
fry for a few minutes. Add 2 cups of warm water and salt. Cook till 12 green chillies, chopped
3 tbsp chopped mint leaves
the meat is tender and the water is absorbed. Add lime juice and 1
3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
tsp garam masala. After a few minutes, remove the meat masala.
750 gms mutton/chicken, cut
Keep aside. into 6–8 pieces
For the rice: Heat the remaining ghee. Crackle the remaining cloves, Salt, to taste
cinnamon and cardamom. Add the remaining ginger, garlic, crushed Juice of 1 lime
chillies, mint and coriander leaves. Stir for a minute. Add rice and fry 500 gms basmati rice, washed
for 5 minutes. Add sufficient hot water to cook the rice till done. and drained
A pinch of saffron dissolved in
To assemble the biriyani: In a casserole, spread all the meat masala.
2 tbsp rosewater
Sprinkle a quarter of the fried onions. Spread half the cooked
rice. Sprinkle 1 tbsp rosewater and half the remaining fried onion
Serves
mixture. Next, spread the remaining rice, followed by a sprinkle of
rosewater, and a garnish of fried onions. Cover the casserole and
place it on a low heat till rice is done.
Tip: If using mutton, increase the cooking time accordingly.
Ingredients
500 gms mutton, cubed
450 gms onions, finely sliced
2 tomatoes, chopped
6 green chillies, minced
1 tbsp coriander powder
½ tbsp red chilli powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
2 pods green cardamom
2 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
1 tsp garam masala
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
1 tbsp chopped mint leaves
1 tsp crushed ginger
1 tsp crushed garlic
Salt
3 tbsp ghee
3 tbsp vegetable oil
500 gms basmati rice, washed
and soaked for 20 minutes
Oil for frying onions
Serves
Erachi Choru
Mutton pulao
Mutton stock is used to cook the rice for this
delicious pulao that is served with coconut-
mint and tamarind chutneys.
Method
Cook mutton with 250 gms onions and the next 14 ingredients
(except garam masala) in sufficient water till done. Strain the stock.
Pick out the mutton pieces and keep aside.
For the rice: Heat ghee and oil together. Brown 100 gms onions. Add
the washed and drained rice, fry for 4–5 minutes. Add the mutton
stock and sufficient hot water to cook the rice. Add salt to taste,
reduce the heat and cook till the rice is almost done. Mix the mutton
pieces with the rice. Sprinkle lime juice and garam masala. Cover
the casserole and keep on a low flame till the rice is fully cooked. For
garnishing, fry the remaining sliced onions to a crisp. Spread this over
the rice before serving.
Semiya Biriyani Ingredients
250 gms lamb/beef
Vermicelli biriyani Salt
1 tsp red chilli powder
Cooked, shredded meat is combined with 1 tsp coriander powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
vermicelli to give this quick and easy teatime 3 tbsp ghee
snack. 3 onions, finely sliced
4 green chillies, chopped
½ tsp crushed ginger
½ tsp crushed garlic
Method ½ tsp garam masala
Cook the meat with salt, chilli, coriander and turmeric powders and 1 tbsp cashew nuts
just enough water till it is tender and dry. Cool, shred and keep aside. 1 tbsp raisins
Heat 1½ tbsp of the ghee. Fry onions, green chillies, ginger and 200 gms vermicelli
garlic till soft. Add the shredded meat and mix well. Add ¼ tsp garam
masala and salt; stir well. Remove from the heat after 4–5 minutes Serves
and keep aside.
Heat the remaining ghee. Fry cashew nuts and raisins to a golden
brown. Add vermicelli and roast it, stirring constantly, till it is light
brown. Add 800 ml hot water and salt, and leave it on low heat.
When all the water is absorbed and the vermicelli is ready, add the
shredded meat to it. Sprinkle a pinch of garam masala. Stir well
before taking it off the heat. Serve hot.

Ingredients
75 gms beetroot, cubed
50 gms peas, shelled
150 gms carrots, cubed
150 gms potatoes, cubed
75 gms French beans (1 in pieces)
50 gms cabbage (1 in shreds)
Salt
200 gms ghee
600 gms onions, sliced
25 gms cashew nuts
25 gms raisins
6 pods green cardamom
6 cloves
2 sticks cinnamon
50 gms ginger, crushed
50 gms garlic, crushed
75 gms green chillies, chopped
3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
2 tomatoes, chopped
Juice of 1 lime
2 tsp garam masala
500 gms basmati rice, washed
and drained
A pinch of saffron soaked in
2 tbsp rosewater
12–15 bread croutons
Serves
Pachakkari Biriyani
Mixed vegetable biriyani
A vegetarian dish that combines beetroot,
carrots, peas and beans with ghee rice.
Method
Boil beetroot and peas, separately, in salt water. Keep aside. Boil
carrots, potatoes and beans together in salt water. When the
vegetables are three-fourths cooked, add shredded cabbage and cook
till the water is absorbed. Keep aside.
Heat ghee; fry half the sliced onions to a golden brown. Strain
and remove. Fry cashew nuts and raisins. Remove from the heat.
Reuse the ghee for the following steps.
In a separate pan, heat 3 tbsp ghee. Crackle 3 cardamom pods,
3 cloves and 1 stick cinnamon. Fry the remaining onions till soft
and transparent. Add three-fourths of crushed ginger, garlic, green
chillies, mint and coriander leaves. Sauté for a few minutes. Add the
chopped tomatoes. When they turn soft, add 400 ml water. Add salt,
lime juice and 1 tsp garam masala. When the contents come to a
boil, add all the cooked vegetables, except beetroot. Cook on low heat
for 5 minutes.
To cook rice, heat the remaining ghee in a wide pan. Crackle the
remaining cardamom pods, cinnamon and cloves. Fry the remaining
ginger, garlic and green chillies. Next, add the remaining mint and
coriander leaves. Stir for a minute. Add rice, salt and enough hot
water to cook the rice.
Keep aside 1 tbsp fried onions and some nuts and raisins for
garnishing. Mix 1 tsp garam masala with the remaining fried onions,
nuts and raisins. Add the beetroot to the cooked vegetables.
In a casserole, spread half the vegetables as the first layer;
sprinkle some of the fried onions, nuts and raisins. Spread half the
cooked rice; sprinkle rosewater.
Add another layer of fried onions, followed by the remaining
vegetables. Spread the remaining rice and sprinkle rosewater. Spread
fried onions, nuts and raisins again. Cover with a tight lid and cook
on low heat for 10 minutes.
Garnish with fried onions, raisins, cashew nuts and bread
croutons.
Classic Malabar Recipes 61
Ingredients Thenga Choru
500 gms parboiled rice
1 medium-sized coconut, grated
1 tsp aniseed
Rice cooked in coconut milk
4 pods green cardamom The subtle flavours of spices permeate this
2 sticks cinnamon
4 cloves dish of rice, steamed in fresh coconut milk.
2 tsp coriander seeds (optional)
3 tbsp ghee
25 gms shallots, sliced Method
1 tsp turmeric powder
Salt Wash and drain the rice. Extract 750 ml of coconut milk. Grind the
whole spices to a fine powder.
Serves Heat ghee in a pot. Add shallots. When they brown, pour in
coconut milk. Add turmeric and the ground spice powders. When the
milk starts to boil, add rice and salt to taste. Stir well. Add more hot
water, if necessary. Cook till the liquid is fully absorbed and the rice is
fluffy but firm.
Nei Choru
Ghee rice
The long-grained basmati is used to make
nei choru. It goes well with erachi aanam,
coconut chutney, raita and date pickle.

Method
Wash and drain the rice. In a heavy pan with a tight-fitting lid, heat
ghee. Crackle the spices; add onions, crushed ginger and garlic. Next,
put in the rice. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add sufficient hot water to cook Ingredients
the rice. Add salt to taste. Bring to a boil. Stir, cover and reduce the 500 gms basmati rice
heat. Cook till the rice is done (about 25 minutes). Remove from the 50 gms ghee
heat. Allow the rice to sit for another 15 minutes. Garnish it with 3 pods cardamom, crushed
raisins and cashew nuts sautéed in ghee. Serve warm. 1 stick cinnamon
3 cloves
1 medium-sized onion, thinly
sliced
½ in piece ginger, crushed
4 flakes garlic, crushed
Salt
For the garnish
Cashew nuts and raisins
Ghee

Serves
 Egg & Chicken

Malabar cuisine offers an

interesting, albeit, limited
repertoire of chicken dishes.
Party fare includes elaborate
dishes like kozhi thalayana,
‘chicken pillow’. But there
are also simpler recipes for
fried and curried chicken.
Eggs, too, find interesting
curry makeovers.

Kozhi Thalayana
Kozhi Nirachathu
Kozhi Kurma
Kozhi Varuthathu
Kozhi Porichathu
Mutta Chaar
Mutta Kakkathil
Classic Malabar Recipes 65
66 Classic Malabar Recipes
Kozhi Thalayana
Chicken pillow
Whole stuffed chicken, in a thin covering or ‘pillow’. This is a good
festive dish that goes well with kannan pathiri or vatti pathiri.

Method Ingredients
In a large pan, heat ghee. Add onions, green chillies, ginger and garlic 1 whole chicken (600–700 gms)
pastes, coriander and mint leaves. Sauté till the onions are soft. Put in For the stuffing
the chopped tomato, turmeric, chilli and coriander powders, garam 3 tbsp ghee
masala and salt. Fry for a few minutes. Remove half of this masala 500 gms onions, sliced
to a plate and let it cool. Stuff this through the opening at the tail- 3 green chillies, chopped
2 tsp ginger paste
end of the chicken. Gently push in the boiled egg as well. Close the
1 tsp garlic paste
chicken by sewing with needle and thread.
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
To make the sauce: To the remaining masala in the pan, add chilli, ½ tbsp chopped mint leaves
coriander, turmeric and aniseed powders, garam masala, lime juice 1 tomato, chopped
and salt. Fry for a few minutes, then pour in 200 ml hot water. When ¼ tsp turmeric powder
the sauce boils, place the chicken carefully in the centre of the pan, 1 tsp red chilli powder
spoon some of the sauce on it. Cook on low heat. Turn it over gently. 1 tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp garam masala
When the chicken is almost cooked, remove it from the sauce.
Salt
Heat sufficient oil in a pan to deep-fry the chicken till it turns brown.
1 hard-boiled egg
Remove and drain the oil from the frying pan. Add 3 tbsp of this For the sauce
drained oil to the sauce in the pan and let it simmer till it reduces.
1 tsp red chilli powder
The masala should be really thick and have an oily sheen. Put the
1 tsp coriander powder
fried chicken back into the sauce and smear the sauce all over it. ¼ tsp turmeric powder
For the covering: Knead the flour with oil, salt and a little water. 1 tsp aniseed powder
When the dough is soft, roll out a large, thin disc that is big enough ¾ tsp garam masala
to cover the whole chicken. Take some of the masala and spread it Juice of 1 lime
evenly over the disc. Place the chicken in the centre. Fold the four Salt
200 ml hot water
sides neatly to cover the chicken. Seal the covering so that the oil
Sunflower oil for frying
does not go in while frying. In a large wok, heat enough oil to cover
For the covering
the whole chicken.
100 gms refined flour
Gently place the
2 tsp oil
chicken pillow in
Salt
the wok and fry on
medium heat until
Serves
the outer covering
turns a light
brown. Remove
and serve hot.
Kozhi Nirachathu
Whole stuffed chicken in spicy sauce
Chicken, stuffed with onion, lentil and spice mix, and cooked in a
thick sauce, makes an impressive addition to a party menu.

Ingredients
Method
1 whole chicken (600–700 gms)
For the stuffing: Cook the Bengal gram with salt and water till For the stuffing
soft. Heat ghee. Sauté onions, green chillies, crushed ginger 2 tbsp Bengal gram
and garlic till the onions are soft. Add the cooked Bengal gram, 2 tbsp ghee
coriander leaves, chilli, coriander and turmeric powders. Stir 2 onions, sliced
well. Next, add garam masala, chopped nuts, raisins, sugar and 4 green chillies, chopped
salt. Remove from the heat and allow this masala to cool. Stuff ½ in piece ginger, crushed
the chicken with this masala. Place the hard-boiled egg in the 3 flakes garlic, crushed
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
chicken. Secure the chicken by pushing the legs through the
1 tsp coriander powder
tail-end, or by sewing it with needle and thread. Keep aside.
½ tsp red chilli powder
For the sauce: Take a wide pan. Heat ghee and oil together. Fry Turmeric powder, a pinch
the onions. Add chopped green chillies, crushed ginger and ¼ tsp garam masala
garlic. Fry for a few minutes before adding the chopped tomato. 6 cashew nuts, chopped
When the tomato turns soft, add chilli, coriander, turmeric and 1 tbsp raisins
1 tsp sugar
aniseed powders. Sauté for a minute. Add lime juice, 500 ml
Salt
water and salt. Cook the sauce on moderate heat till it begins
1 hard-boiled egg
to boil. Place the stuffed chicken in it and cook on very low heat.
For the sauce
Add garam masala and coriander leaves. Turn the chicken over
2 tbsp ghee
once or twice. Cook till it is tender. Serve hot.
2 tbsp oil
4 onions, chopped
4 green chillies, chopped
1 tsp crushed ginger
1 tsp crushed garlic
1 big tomato, chopped
½ tbsp red chilli powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp aniseed powder
Juice of 1 lime
½ tsp garam masala
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

Serves
 Ingredients
20 gms unsalted cashew nuts
3 tbsp ghee
400 gms onions, sliced
2 tomatoes, chopped
4 green chillies, chopped
1 in piece ginger, crushed
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp chilli powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp aniseed powder
500 gms chicken (8 pieces)
Salt
1 bunch coriander leaves
¼ tsp garam masala
1 tsp sugar
For garnishing
1 tbsp fried onion
1 tbsp each, fried raisins and cashew nuts

Serves

Kozhi Kurma
Curried chicken
Chicken, cooked in cashew nut gravy, goes well with pathiri.

Method
Soak the cashew nuts in water for 30 minutes. Grind to a smooth
paste.
In a pan, melt 3 tbsp ghee. Sauté 1 tbsp onion till it turns brown.
Add the remaining onions and sauté till soft. Add tomatoes, green
chillies, ginger and garlic. Cook for 4–5 minutes. Add the spice powders.
Stir till you get the aroma. Next, put in the chicken, cashew nut paste,
salt and just enough water to cook the chicken. Cover and cook on low
heat till the sauce thickens. Add the coriander leaves, garam masala
and sugar. Garnish with fried onions, cashew nuts and raisins.
 Kozhi Varuthathu

70 Classic Malabar Recipes

Kozhi Varuthathu Ingredients
500 gms chicken
Fried chicken 1 tbsp chopped shallots
1 tsp crushed garlic
Marinated chicken pieces are fried in oil to 1 tsp crushed ginger
1 sprig curry leaves
make this quick and easy dish. 1 tbsp chopped coriander
1 tbsp red chilli powder
1 tsp aniseed powder
Method ¼ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp garam masala
Cut the chicken into 8–10 pieces. Grind the next eight ingredients. 1 tsp lime juice
Blend the ground paste with garam masala, lime juice and salt. Salt
Marinate the chicken in this paste for an hour. Heat oil in a wok 200 ml sunflower oil
and stir-fry the chicken pieces till they turn brown and tender.
Serves

Kozhi Porichathu Ingredients

500 gms chicken, cut into 8
Spicy fried chicken pieces
2 onions, thinly sliced
Chicken is first stewed with fresh herbs 3 green chillies, chopped
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
and whole spices, then deep-fried and 2 sprigs curry leaves
cooked in a thick spicy sauce. 1 tbsp red chilli powder
1 tsp aniseed powder
½ tsp garam masala
½ tsp turmeric powder
Salt
Method Oil for frying
In a pan, place the chicken pieces together with all the ingredients
listed (except oil). Cover with just enough water and cook Serves
the chicken on medium heat till tender. When the water has
evaporated, remove the chicken pieces and drain the liquid from
them. Keep aside the masala in the pan for later use.
Heat oil in a wok. Deep-fry the chicken pieces to a golden
brown. To the masala kept aside, add some of the oil used for
frying the chicken. Allow the masala to simmer on low heat till it
acquires an oily sheen. Now add the chicken pieces to this mixture.
Stir well and heat right through. Remove and serve hot.
Ingredients
½ coconut, grated
½ tsp turmeric powder
¼ tsp aniseed
1 sprig curry leaves
250 gms onions, sliced
4 green chillies, chopped
½ tsp crushed garlic
Mutta Chaar
1 tbsp red chilli powder
3 eggs
Curried eggs
Eggs, cooked in coconut gravy, go well with
Serves
either vatti pathiri or plain wheat chapatti.

Method
Grind coconut, turmeric, aniseed and a little water into a
smooth paste. Keep it aside. In a cooking pot, heat oil to medium
temperature. Add curry leaves, onions, green chillies and garlic.
Sauté the mix till the onions are soft. Now, add chilli powder and stir.
Add 300 ml water and salt. Let the gravy cook for about 5 minutes
on high heat. Lower the heat. Break one egg into a small bowl and
gently pour it into the simmering gravy. Allow it to cook for about 2
minutes. At this stage, when the egg is half-cooked, break the second
egg. Add it to the gravy. After 5 minutes, add the next egg.
When all the eggs are cooked, push them to the side of the pan
and add the ground coconut paste. Gently stir the gravy. If it is too
thick, add a little water. Let it simmer for a few minutes. Remove and
serve hot.
Ingredients
4 hard-boiled eggs
Salt
2 tsp red chilli powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp coriander powder
3 tbsp oil
250 gms onions, chopped
3 green chillies, chopped
½ tsp crushed ginger
½ tsp crushed garlic
1 sprig curry leaves, chopped
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
125 gms coconut, grated
Serves
Mutta Kakkathil
Egg roast
Hard-boiled eggs are fried and then dunked
in a spicy sauce flavoured with coconut milk.
Method
Shell the eggs and score them with a knife. Mix salt, chilli, turmeric
and coriander powders with a few drops of water. Rub this paste
on the eggs. In a small pan, heat oil. Fry the eggs till golden brown.
Remove with a slotted spoon and keep aside. To the remaining
oil, add onions, green chillies, crushed ginger and garlic, curry and
coriander leaves. Sauté till the onions are soft. When they start to
brown, add chilli, turmeric, coriander and aniseed powders. Fry for a
minute. Add 300 ml water and salt. Bring the sauce to a boil, reduce
the heat and allow it to cook for 5 minutes.
Extract 50 ml thick milk from the grated coconut. Add the milk to
the sauce and let it simmer till it is thick and has an oily glaze. Add
the eggs. Spoon the sauce over them. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove
and serve hot.
 Lamb & Beef

The preference for lamb in

Malabar may be attributed to
the Arab legacy, but the many
ways in which it is prepared
is pure local genius. Stewed,
curried, roasted or fried, mutton
is the basis for several delicious
dishes.

Channa Chuttathu
Erachi Ishtew
Erachi Porichathu
Erachi Aanam
Kakkarotti
Classic Malabar Recipes 75
Ingredients
1 leg of lamb, about 750 gms
4 tsp red chilli powder
1½ tsp turmeric powder
Salt
50 gms ghee
50 gms oil
25 gms cashew nuts
25 gms raisins
500 gms onions, sliced
1 sprig curry leaves
10 green chillies, chopped
1tbsp ginger paste
1 tbsp garlic paste
1 big tomato, chopped
3 tsp coriander powder
Salt
1tsp garam masala
Juice of 1 lime
Serves
Channa Chuttathu
Roasted leg of lamb
The leg of lamb is cooked in masala and
then slowly given ‘dum’ by placing live
coals over the lid.
Method
Wash the leg of lamb and score it all over with a knife. Make a paste
with 1 tsp chilli powder, ½ tsp turmeric, salt and water. Smear this
over the meat and marinate for 15–20 minutes.
In a large cooking pot with a lid, heat oil and ghee together. Fry
cashew nuts and raisins. Remove with a slotted spoon. In the same
oil, brown a quarter of the sliced onions to a crisp and keep aside.
Next, fry the curry leaves, the remaining onions, green chillies, ginger
and garlic pastes. Sauté for a while till the onions are soft. Add the
chopped tomato. When it softens, add the remaining chilli and
turmeric powders, and the coriander powder. Stir till the aroma rises.
Add 250 ml water and salt. Bring the sauce to the boil. Add garam
masala and lime juice. Stir well. Place the leg of lamb in the sauce.
Spoon some of the sauce over the sides and on top of the meat. Cook
on low heat. When the meat is nearly done, cover the pot with a
tight-fitting lid and place live coals on it. Cook till the meat is dry.
Alternately, transfer the leg of lamb into a baking dish and brown
it in the oven at moderate temperature.
Remove the leg of lamb onto the serving dish. Garnish with fried
onions, raisins and cashew nuts.
Ingredients
2 tbsp ghee
2 pods green cardamom
3 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
350 gms onions, sliced
10 green chillies, crushed
½ in piece ginger, crushed
4 pods garlic, crushed
500 gms beef/lamb
1 tomato, chopped
100 gms potatoes, peeled and
diced
Salt
1 coconut, grated
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
Serves
Erachi Ishtew
Beef stew
Ishtew gets its bite from green chillies. It
makes a delicious combination with nei choru
or ghee rice.
Method
In a heavy-based pan, heat ghee. Crackle cardamom pods, cloves and
cinnamon. Add the onions, green chillies, ginger and garlic. Fry till the
onions are soft. Put in the beef/lamb cubes and fry for a few minutes.
Add the tomatoes; when they soften, add the potatoes and salt.
Stir well. Add sufficient water to cook the meat. When the meat is
tender and almost dry, remove it from the heat. Extract 500 ml thick
milk from the grated coconut. Pour it into the pan. Sprinkle coriander
leaves. Let the stew simmer for a minute. Remove and serve hot.
Ingredients Erachi Porichathu
500 gms beef/lamb
1 tbsp red chilli powder
½ tbsp coriander powder
Fried beef
¼ tsp turmeric powder In Malayalam, erachi refers to both beef
½ tbsp aniseed powder
2 onions, sliced and lamb. This simple fry is eaten with
1 tsp ginger paste pathiri or rice and curry.
1 tsp garlic paste
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
1 sprig curry leaves
Method
3 pods green cardamom
1 stick cinnamon Chop the meat into bite-sized pieces. In a pan of water, cook the
3 cloves meat with all the other ingredients, except oil. When the water
Salt has evaporated and the meat is tender, remove from the heat. In a
Oil
frying pan, heat oil to medium temperature. Fry the meat till brown.
When the meat starts to ooze oil, remove from the heat and serve.
Serves

Ingredients Erachi Aanam

1 tbsp ghee
2 tbsp sunflower oil
1 sprig curry leaves
Curried beef/lamb
2 sticks cinnamon Beef or lamb is cooked with potatoes, in
4 pods green cardamom, crushed
4 cloves a curry that is finished with coconut milk.
350 gms onions, sliced This dish can be eaten with pathiri or rice.
4 green chillies, chopped
1 tsp crushed ginger
1 tsp crushed garlic
1 tomato, chopped
Method
2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tbsp red chilli powder Heat oil and ghee in a pan. Add curry leaves, cinnamon, cardamom,
½ tsp turmeric powder cloves and 1 tbsp sliced onions. Sauté till the onions turn golden
1 tsp aniseed powder brown. Now, add the remaining onions, green chillies, ginger, garlic
500 gms beef/lamb and tomatoes. When the tomatoes are soft, add the powdered
1 large potato, diced into 6 pieces spices. Stir well. Next, add the beef. Fry for a few minutes before
Salt adding potatoes, salt and sufficient water. Cook the beef till it is
½ cup coconut, grated tender. Extract 200 ml thick milk from the grated coconut. Add
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
the coconut milk to the pan. Allow the curry to simmer for a few
minutes. Garnish with the chopped coriander leaves.
Serves
 Erachi Porichathu

Classic Malabar Recipes 79

80 Classic Malabar Recipes
Kakkarotti Ingredients
For the rice dumplings
Stewed mutton with rice dumplings 500 gms parboiled rice
1 tsp aniseed
The dish gets its name from kakkam, meaning 1 tsp cumin seeds
sauce, and orotti, or bread. Coin-sized orotti, 2 pods green cardamom,
crushed
steamed rice paste dumplings, can be made a ½ coconut, grated
day in advance and stored in the fridge. 50 gms shallots
Salt
For the coconut paste
1 tbsp sunflower oil
Method ½ coconut, grated
1 sprig curry leaves
For the rice dumplings: Soak the rice in an open pan of hot water 2 tbsp shallots, chopped
for 3–4 hours. Wash and drain. Powder aniseed, cumin seeds and 1 tsp aniseed, powdered
cardamom together. Add this powder, grated coconut, chopped 1 tsp turmeric powder
shallots and salt into the rice. Grind to get a very thick paste. Oil the For the mutton gravy
palm of your hand. Pinch a small ball of 1 cm diameter from the 500 gms mutton
paste. Make a light depression with your finger in the centre. Leave 300 gms onions, finely sliced
the ball on a plate or a banana leaf. When the paste is used up, steam 5 green chillies, chopped
the balls for 45 minutes. Remove and cool. 1 tsp ginger paste
For the coconut paste: In a wok, heat 1 tbsp oil. Add grated coconut, 1 tsp garlic paste
curry leaves, shallots, aniseed and turmeric. Stir well and roast till 1 sprig curry leaves
the coconut is brown. Remove and cool. Grind to a fine paste using a 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
2 tomatoes, chopped
little water.
1 tbsp red chilli powder
For the mutton gravy: Stew the mutton with the remaining 1 tbsp coriander powder
ingredients and sufficient water. Cover the pan and cook on low heat ½ tsp turmeric powder
till the mutton is tender. 4 cloves
Add the coconut paste to this gravy and bring to the boil. Add the 4 pods green cardamom
rice dumplings and allow the gravy to simmer for 10 minutes. Heat 1 stick cinnamon
ghee and brown 1 tbsp chopped shallots. Put the shallots into the Salt
gravy and mix well. Remove from the heat and serve. For the garnish
1 tbsp ghee
1 tbsp chopped shallots

Serves
 Fish & Shellfish

In rural Malabar, the daily diet

revolves around seafood. Fish
curries are tangy. They are
eaten with plain steamed rice,
pathiri and parotta. The region
is known for some unusual
shellfish preparations.

Aakoli Nirachathu
Meen Kakkathil
Meen Mulakittathu
Meen Aanam
Meen Chaaru
Meen Molly
Chemmeen Varattiyathu
Kallumakkai Porichathu
Koonthal Porichathu
Classic Malabar Recipes 83
84 Classic Malabar Recipes
Akoli Nirachathu Ingredients
750 gms whole pomfret
Stuffed pomfret 2 tsp red chilli powder
¾ tsp turmeric powder
Fresh pomfret, stuffed with herbs and Salt
For the stuffing
spices, is cooked in a tangy sauce to make 2 tbsp oil
this appetising dish that goes well with vatti 1 sprig curry leaves
pathiri. 250 gms onions, sliced
4 green chillies, minced
½ tsp ginger paste
½ tsp garlic paste
Method 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
Clean and prepare the pomfret. Rub the fish with a paste made of 1 1 tsp coriander powder
tsp red chilli powder, ½ tsp turmeric powder, salt and a little water. Garam masala, a pinch
Keep aside for 10 minutes. For the sauce
4 tbsp oil mixed with 2 tbsp
For the stuffing: Heat oil and fry curry leaves, sliced onions, green
ghee
chillies, ginger and garlic pastes, and coriander leaves. Sauté till
2 sprigs curry leaves
the onions are transparent. Add the remaining chilli and turmeric 500 gms onions, sliced
powders, 1 tsp coriander powder, salt and a pinch of garam masala. 6 green chillies, slit
Stir for a few minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Stuff the fish 1 tsp crushed ginger
with this filling through the cut at the mouth. Keep aside. 1 tsp crushed garlic
For the sauce: In a heavy-based pan, wide enough to accommodate 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
the whole fish, warm ghee and oil together. Fry curry leaves, sliced 100 gms tomatoes, chopped
onions, green chillies, ginger and garlic pastes. Sauté till the onions 1 tbsp red chilli powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
are soft. Add the tomatoes and sauté for a bit. Add chilli, turmeric,
1 tbsp coriander powder
coriander and aniseed powders. After a few seconds, pour 500 ml of
½ tsp aniseed powder
warm water and lime juice. Add garam masala and salt. Juice of 1 lime
When the sauce starts to bubble, gently place the fish in the ½ tsp garam masala
middle of the pan. Spoon some of the sauce on it. Cook on very low Salt
heat for 10 minutes till the fish is browned. Carefully turn the fish
over; cook till done. At this stage the top is browned and the sauce is Serves
thick.
To clean and prepare the pomfret: Clean and scale the fish. Remove
the fins, leaving head and tail intact. Make a cut at the mouth. Insert
a knife and loosen the flesh from the backbone up to midway. Bend
the bone at the neck. Without damaging the fish, remove it carefully
for about 3 to 4 in through the cut. Remove the innards. Wash
thoroughly.
Ingredients
250 gms fish fillets
2 tsp red chilli powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
Salt
100 ml oil
2 onions, sliced
4 green chillies, chopped
1 sprig curry leaves
1 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp garlic paste
1 tomato, chopped
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
Juice of 1 lime
¼ tsp garam masala
For the garnish
Fried curry leaves and chopped
coriander leaves
Serves
Meen Kakkathil
Fish roast
Fleshy fish like seer or pomfret is used for
this semi-dry fish preparation.
Method
Marinate the fish fillets for 10 minutes in 1 tsp chilli powder, half the
turmeric powder and a pinch of salt. Heat 50 ml oil in a wok. Fry the
fish to a golden brown. Remove, drain and keep aside.
In a fresh pan, heat the remaining oil. Fry onions, green chillies
and curry leaves. Sauté till the onions are soft. Add ginger and garlic
pastes. Stir for a few minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes. When the
tomatoes turn soft, add remaining chilli and turmeric powders. Stir
for a minute. Add coriander powder and salt. Stir again.
Pour 125 ml water and allow the sauce to simmer for a while.
Add coriander leaves, lime juice and garam masala. Put in the fried
fish and add some of the oil left over from the frying. Cook on low
heat till the water is absorbed. Garnish with fried curry leaves and
chopped coriander leaves.
Meen Mulakittathu
Fish in tamarind sauce
A delicious country style curry that
combines the sourness of tamarind with
the bite of chilli.

Method Ingredients
Heat oil in a shallow pan. Crackle mustard seeds. Add fenugreek; 3–4 tbsp oil
when the seeds turn light brown, put in the curry leaves, onions and ½ tsp mustard seeds
green chillies. Sauté till the onions are soft. Add the crushed ginger ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
and garlic. Stir well. Add the chopped tomatoes and sauté till they 2 sprigs curry leaves
are soft. Now, put in turmeric, red chilli and coriander powders. Soak 1 onion, sliced
4 green chillies, chopped
tamarind in 250 ml warm water for 10 minutes. Squeeze and strain.
1 tsp crushed ginger
When the aroma of spices rises from the pan, pour in the tamarind
1 tsp crushed garlic
water. Allow the sauce to boil for 5 minutes before adding the fish. 2 tomatoes, chopped
Cook on low heat till the sauce is thick. (This takes about 5 minutes.) 1 heaped tbsp red chilli powder
½ tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
1 lime-sized ball of tamarind
400 gms (seer/pomfret/surmai)

Serves
Meen Aanam Ingredients
3 tbsp oil
Fish in roasted coconut curry 2 sprigs curry leaves
3 tbsp shallots, chopped
Seer, pomfret or tuna can be used for this ½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp aniseed powder
curry, which gets a distinctive flavour from ½ coconut, grated
roasted coconut. 50 gms tamarind
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 big onion, sliced
4 green chillies, chopped
1 tsp crushed ginger
Method 1 tsp crushed garlic
Heat 1 tbsp oil. Fry 1 sprig curry leaves, 1 tbsp shallots, a pinch of 1 tomato, chopped
turmeric powder, aniseed powder and grated coconut. Roast the 1 tsp red chilli powder
coconut, stirring constantly to ensure that it browns evenly. Cool 1 tbsp coriander powder
and then grind this with a little water, to make a smooth paste. Soak 250 gms fish
tamarind for a few minutes in 200 ml warm water. Squeeze and 1 tbsp chopped coriander
strain. Keep the tamarind water aside.
In a shallow pan, heat 2 tbsp oil. Fry fenugreek, the remaining Serves
curry leaves and shallots. When the shallots brown, add sliced
onion, green chillies, ginger and garlic and sauté till the ingredients
turn soft. Add tomatoes and stir for a few minutes. Next, add chilli,
coriander and the remaining turmeric powder. Stir well; pour in the
tamarind water. Add another 250 ml of water. Let the curry boil for
5–7 minutes. Slip in the fish pieces. Cook on low heat till done (about
7 minutes). Add the ground coconut paste and chopped coriander.
Allow the gravy to simmer for 5 minutes.
Meen Chaaru Ingredients
½ coconut, grated
Country style fish curry ½ tsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp oil
The recipe given below tastes best with mackerel, ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
but can be used for other fishes as well. 5 shallots, sliced
1 onion, sliced
2 green chillies, chopped
Method 1 tomato, chopped
Grind coconut and turmeric to a fine paste. Heat oil and splutter 4 flakes garlic, crushed
fenugreek, curry leaves and shallots. When the shallots turn brown, 1 tbsp red chilli powder
1 lime-sized ball of tamarind
put in the sliced onion, green chillies, tomatoes and garlic. Sauté till
½ kg fish (mackerel/sardine)
the mix is soft. Add chilli powder and stir till you get the aroma. Soak
Salt
tamarind in 200 ml warm water for a few minutes. Squeeze and
strain to get tamarind water; pour this into the pan. Allow the gravy
to simmer for 5 minutes. Slip in the fish and add salt. After 5 minutes, Serves
add coconut paste. Leave the gravy to simmer for another 5 minutes. If
it is too thick, add a little warm water. Remove from the heat.

Meen Molly
Fish molly
This is one of Kerala’s famous fish curries.
‘Molly’, could have come from molho,
Portuguese for sauce.
Ingredients
250 gms fish (kingfish/
Method pomfret/tuna)
Marinate the fish in salt, chilli and turmeric powders for 10 minutes. Salt
Heat oil in a pan, fry the fish and keep aside. In a separate pan, heat 1 tsp red chilli powder
2 tbsp oil. Crackle fenugreek and add sliced onions, green chillies ¼ tsp turmeric powder
and curry leaves. Sauté till the onions are soft. Add ginger, garlic and 125 ml sunflower oil
tomatoes. Cook till the tomatoes are soft. Extract 200 ml each of ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
thick and thin coconut milk. Add the thin coconut milk first. Let it 2 onions, sliced
6 green chillies, chopped
boil for 5 minutes. Add the fried fish; reduce heat and let the gravy
1 sprig curry leaves
simmer for a few minutes. Now, pour the thick milk and sprinkle
½ in piece ginger, crushed
coriander leaves. Bring to the boil and remove immediately. 4–5 flakes garlic, crushed
1 tomato, chopped
½ coconut, grated
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

Serves
Chemmeen Varattiyathu Ingredients
250 gms prawns
Tamarind prawns Salt
½ tsp turmeric powder
Eaten with appam or pathiri, this Malabar 1½ tbsp red chilli powder
125 ml oil
specialty tastes even better if made a day ½ tsp mustard seeds
in advance. ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 onion, sliced
½ tsp crushed ginger
½ tsp crushed garlic
Method 1 sprig curry leaves
Shell, devein and wash the prawns. Rub them with salt, ¼ tsp 1 tomato, chopped
turmeric and ½ tbsp chilli powder. Keep aside for 10 minutes. Heat 1 tsp coriander powder
half the oil and fry the prawns until brown. 50 gms tamarind
In a clean pan, heat the remaining oil. Crackle mustard and 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
fenugreek. When the fenugreek turns light brown, add onions,
crushed ginger and garlic, curry leaves and tomatoes. Sauté till the Serves
tomatoes turn soft. Add the remaining chilli and turmeric powders
and 1 tsp coriander powder. Stir for a minute. Soak tamarind in
150 ml warm water for a few minutes; squeeze and strain. Pour the
tamarind water into the pan. Add salt to taste. When the contents
come to a boil, add the prawns. To enhance the taste of the dish, pour
a tablespoon of oil left over from the frying of prawns into the sauce.
Cook on medium heat till the sauce thickens. Garnish with chopped
coriander.
Kallumakkai Porichathu
Fried mussels
A quick and easy dry side dish to go with rice
and curry.

Method
Ingredients
Scrape, debeard and wash the mussels. Put them in a pan with 400 ml
25 mussels
water. Place on medium heat. Hold the pan and shake it a couple of
1 tbsp red chilli powder
times so that the heat is equally distributed. When all the mussels are
¼ tsp turmeric powder
fully open, remove the pan from the heat. Leave the mussels to cool. 2–3 flakes garlic, crushed
Scoop out the flesh from the shells; wash it thoroughly. Marinate Salt
the mussel flesh in a paste of chilli powder, turmeric, crushed garlic 100 ml sunflower oil
and salt for 15–20 minutes. Heat oil in a wok; fry the curry leaves. 2 sprigs curry leaves
Remove with a slotted spoon. Now, fry the marinated mussels to a
golden brown. Remove, drain, garnish with fried curry leaves and serve. Serves

Koonthal Porichathu Ingredients

250 gms squid
Fried squid 50 gms shallots, chopped
½ tsp garlic paste
Chilli, shallots and crushed garlic combine 1 sprig curry leaves
2 tsp red chilli powder
with the taste of squid to give a light and ¼ tsp turmeric powder
flavoursome dish. Salt
3 tbsp sunflower oil

Method Serves
In a pan, put in all the ingredients, except oil. Add a little water. Cook
the squid on medium heat till the water is absorbed. Heat oil in a
frying pan. Fry the cooked squid on low heat till it turns brown. Serve it
with any pathiri.
To clean the squid: Pull the head and innards from the sac. Cut off the
tentacles and reserve. Discard the head and innards. Remove the long
transparent cartilage from the sac. Peel the thin mottled skin. Chop
the tentacles and the sac for use.
 Greens & Vegetables

Malabar’s vegetarian dishes

are drawn from Kerala’s Hindu
cuisine. The ishtew is well
known; a theeyal combines
tamarind and chillies; a
kaalan has a coconut-yogurt
base. Dry preparations of
yam, cabbage or spinach are
popular as side dishes.

Chena Porichathu
Muttakoos Thoran
Vazhuthana Theeyal
Cheera Varavu
Kaippa Theeyal
Manga Kaalan
Pachakkari Ishtew
Classic Malabar Recipes 93

Ingredients
200 gms yam
¼ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp red chilli powder
Salt
Sunflower oil for frying
Serves
Ingredients
250 gms cabbage
1 tbsp oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
1 onion, chopped
3–4 green chillies, chopped
Salt
¼ tsp turmeric powder
½ cup grated coconut
Serves
Chena Porichathu
Fried yam
The elephant foot yam is made into a
simple crisp-fried preparation that goes
with steamed rice and any curry.
Method
Wash and slice the yam into 1½ in long sticks. Marinate the slices in
the next 3 ingredients for 5–10 minutes. In a wok, bring the oil to a
high temperature. Deep-fry the yam bits to a crisp. Remove with a
slotted spoon. Serve hot.
Muttakoos Thoran
Stir-fried cabbage
Cabbage, seasoned with mustard seeds,
curry leaves and shredded coconut, makes
a quick, easy and delicious side dish.
Method
Shred the cabbage finely. Heat oil in a pan; crackle mustard seeds
and curry leaves. Add cabbage, onion and green chillies. Pour 100 ml
water; add salt and half the turmeric powder. Cook the cabbage on
low heat, stirring occasionally. Mix the remaining turmeric with the
grated coconut. When the water dries up, add the grated coconut to
the cabbage. Stir well. After a minute of cooking on low heat, remove
and serve.
Vazhuthana Theeyal Ingredients
200 gms aubergines, small black
Aubergine in tamarind sauce variety
100 ml oil
Aubergine is the perfect ingredient to ½ tsp mustard seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
showcase the layered nature of a theeyal. 1 onion, finely sliced
This dish can be eaten with plain steamed 3 green chillies, chopped
1 tomato, sliced
rice or any type of pathiri. 1 tsp red chilli powder
½ tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
Method 1 lime-sized ball of tamarind
Salt
Chop the aubergines into ¾ in cubes. Heat oil in a pan and fry the
cubes to a golden brown. Remove, drain and keep aside. In the
Serves
remaining oil, crackle mustard seeds and curry leaves. Add onions,
green chillies and tomato. When the tomato is partially cooked,
add chilli, coriander and turmeric powders. Stir well. Soak tamarind
in warm water for 10 minutes. Squeeze and strain to get 200 ml
tamarind water. Pour this into the pan. Add another 100 ml of water.
When the sauce starts to boil, put in the fried aubergine. Add salt to
taste. Cook till the sauce is thick.

Ingredients
200 gms spinach
¼ tsp turmeric powder
4 tbsp grated coconut
1 tbsp oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
2 dry red chillies, chopped
2 sprigs curry leaves
1 onion, chopped
4 green chillies, chopped
Serves
Cheera Varavu
Stir-fried spinach
A lashing of grated coconut makes spinach
the perfect side dish.
Method
Wash and drain the spinach; chop it fine. Add turmeric powder to
grated coconut. To this, add the chopped spinach. Keep aside.
Heat oil in a wok and crackle the mustard seeds. Add dry red
chillies and curry leaves. Next, add the onion and green chillies. Sauté
till the onion is soft. Now, put in the spinach-coconut mixture. Stir
well. Press the spinach gently with a spoon. Turn down the heat to
low. Let the spinach cook for 2–3 minutes, and then stir again. Cook
on low heat till done.
Kaippa Theeyal Ingredients
5 tbsp oil
Bitter gourd in tamarind sauce 2 sprigs curry leaves
1 cup grated coconut
Bitter gourd’s strong taste is balanced with ½ tsp aniseed powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
coconut, tamarind and spices that go into 1 lime-sized ball of tamarind
this dish. 1 large onion, chopped
3 green chillies, chopped
200 gms bitter gourd, sliced
½ tsp crushed garlic
Method ½ tsp crushed ginger
Heat 1 tbsp oil and fry a sprig of curry leaves. Add grated coconut, 1 tomato, chopped
aniseed and turmeric powders. Roast till the coconut turns golden ¼ tsp turmeric powder
brown. Remove, add a little water and grind to a smooth paste. Soak 1 tsp red chilli powder
2 tsp coriander powder
tamarind in 200 ml warm water for a few minutes. Squeeze, strain
Salt
and keep the tamarind water aside.
Heat 4 tbsp oil; add 4–5 curry leaves, onion, green chillies and
bitter gourd. Fry till the bitter gourd turns a light brown. Add crushed Serves
ginger and garlic. Sauté for a bit. Put in the tomatoes. When they
soften, add turmeric, chilli and coriander powders. Stir for a minute.
Pour in the tamarind water and leave the gravy to simmer. When the
bitter gourd is cooked, add salt. Now, add the ground coconut paste
and bring to a boil. If the sauce is too thick, add a little water. Garnish
and serve.
Ingredients Manga Kaalan
8 small ripe whole mangoes
Salt
1 tsp red chilli powder
Mangoes in yogurt-coconut sauce
¼ tsp turmeric powder Local Kerala mangoes are used to make
1 cup grated coconut
½ cup plain yogurt this finger-licking good curry that goes well
½ tsp cumin seeds with steamed rice.
1 tbsp ghee
¼ tsp mustard seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
4 dry red chillies Method
Wash and peel the mangoes. Cook them with salt, chilli and turmeric
Serves powders and just enough water to cover. Grind coconut, yogurt and
cumin seeds to a smooth paste. Pour this paste over the mangoes.
Cook the curry on moderate heat. When it comes to a boil, remove it
from the heat. Melt 1 tbsp ghee; crackle mustard seeds, curry leaves
and dry red chillies. Pour this into the mango curry. Stir well, remove
and serve hot.
Pachakkari Ishtew
Mixed vegetable stew
A blend of spices, green chillies, ginger and
garlic adds zest to the vegetables.
Ingredients
½ coconut, grated
Method 2 tbsp oil/ghee
Extract 200 ml thick milk and 250 ml thin milk from the coconut. 3 pods green cardamom
Heat oil in a pan and put in cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. 3 cloves
When they crackle, add the sliced onions and green chillies. Sauté 1 in piece cinnamon
till the onions are soft. Next, add crushed garlic and ginger. Sauté for 250 gms onions, sliced
a while. Add the vegetables and sauté for a few minutes. Add salt 1 green chilli, chopped
and enough water to cover the vegetables. When the vegetables are 4 flakes garlic, crushed
tender, pour in the thick coconut milk. Add chopped coriander leaves. 1 tsp crushed ginger
150 gms potatoes, peeled and
If the sauce is too thick add some of the thin milk to get the right
cubed
consistency. Cook it for a few minutes. Just as it begins to bubble,
150 gms carrots, peeled and
remove the ishtew from the heat. cubed
100 gms French beans, cut into
1 in long pieces
Salt
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves,
poached in coconut milk

Serves
Pachadis,
Pickles & Chutneys

Pachadis are light and cooling

yogurt-based relishes. Together with
tangy pickles and chutneys, they are
the standard accompaniments to
biriyani and pulao. While pachadi
and coconut chutney are best eaten
fresh, tamarind and date chutneys
can be prepared slightly in advance.

Venda Pachadi
Puli Chutney
Eenthappazham Pickle
Kaithachakka Pachadi
Thenga Chutney
Classic Malabar Recipes 101
Ingredients
100 gms okra
¼ tsp turmeric powder
4 green chillies, chopped
Salt
100 ml sunflower oil
¼ tsp mustard seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
3 dry red chillies
150 ml yogurt, lightly beaten
Serves
Venda Pachadi
Okra in yogurt
This dish may be served hot or cold. It goes
well with steamed rice.
Method
Wash, dry, trim and slice okra into roundels of ¼ in thickness. Add
turmeric powder, chopped green chillies and salt to the okra. Mix
well and keep aside.
Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan. Crackle mustard seeds, curry leaves and
dry chillies. Stir and add this seasoning to the beaten yogurt. Mix
well and keep aside. In a wok, heat the remaining oil and deep-fry the
sliced okra. When the okra changes colour and turns crisp, remove
with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel. Add the okra to the
yogurt, together with salt to taste. Stir well. Do not reheat.
Puli Chutney Ingredients
25 gms tamarind
Tamarind chutney ½ tsp red chilli powder
½ tsp chopped onion
This chutney involves no cooking. It is ½ tsp minced ginger
½ tsp minced garlic
always served at feasts. ½ tsp curry leaves, chopped
1 green chilli, chopped
5 tbsp jaggery/3 tbsp sugar
Method Salt

Soak the tamarind in 100 ml water for 10 minutes. Squeeze it well.

Serves
Strain the juice into a bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.

Eenthappazham Pickle Ingredients

200 gms dates, stoned
Date pickle 50 gms garlic
50 gms ginger
Date pickle is served with biriyani or ghee 3 tbsp red chilli powder
Salt
rice. 450 ml vinegar
1 tbsp mustard seeds

Method Serves
Slice the dates lengthwise, into 4 pieces. Slit the garlic cloves similarly.
Thinly slice the ginger.
Put all the dry ingredients (except mustard seeds) into a jar. Pour
vinegar on them. Keep aside for 3–4 days. Roast the mustard seeds in
a pan for 2 minutes. Powder the seeds coarsely. Add the powder to the
pickle. Mix well. The pickle is ready for use.
 Kaithachakka Pachadi

104 Classic Malabar Recipes

Kaithachakka Pachadi
Pineapple and coconut in yogurt
The sweet-sour taste of pineapple and the
kick of spices come together in this yogurt-
based relish.
Ingredients
2 ½ cup chopped pineapple
2 tsp red chilli powder
Method ½ tsp mustard seeds, crushed
Cook pineapple with chilli powder, ½ tsp crushed mustard, salt and 1 cup grated coconut
200 ml water. Grind the coconut with shallots, cumin seeds, turmeric ½ tbsp chopped shallots
and half cup of water into a coarse paste. Add the coconut paste to the ½ tsp cumin seeds
pineapple. When the mix comes to a boil, remove from the heat. Add ¼ tsp turmeric powder
lightly beaten yogurt to it. For the seasoning, heat oil. Pop mustard 250 ml yogurt
seeds, add dry chillies and curry leaves. Add this to the pachadi. Stir For seasoning
well. Do not reheat. 1 tbsp sunflower oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
3 dry red chillies, chopped
1 sprig curry leaves

Serves

Thenga Chutney Ingredients

½ coconut, grated
Green coconut chutney 1 tsp crushed ginger
1 tsp chopped green chillies
Coconut chutney is served with nei choru 1 sprig curry leaves, roughly torn
1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
or any biriyani. 1 tsp chopped mint leaves
1 tbsp lime juice/vinegar
Salt
Method
Serves
Combine all the ingredients in a blender. Without adding water,
blend them into a paste of a slightly coarse texture. Add lime juice or
vinegar to it. Blend it once more. The chutney is ready for use.
 Sweets & Desserts

Though rice, banana, jaggery and

coconut form the mainstay of
Kerala’s sweets, in Malabar the
surprise ingredient is egg. Egg yolk
strands are poached in sugar syrup;
and sweet scrambled eggs are
stuffed into bananas, or layered with
pathiri to make unusual desserts.

Pidi Kari
Pazham Nirachathu
Pazham Pandathil
Mutta Maala
Lakkottappam
Vaattilappam
Chatti Pathiri
Kasa Pathiri
 Mutta Maala

Classic Malabar Recipes 107

 Pidi Kari
Banana and coconut pudding
Pidi, steamed rice dumplings, and ripe
banana cooked in coconut milk is an
unusual dessert.

Ingredients Method
300 gms parboiled rice Soak two-thirds of the parboiled rice in hot water for 3 hours.
100 gms basmati rice/kaima rice In another bowl, soak together the remaining parboiled rice and
Salt the basmati rice in cold water for the same time.
2 coconuts, grated Wash and drain the parboiled rice. Add a pinch of salt and grind it
¾ kg ripe Malabar bananas to a smooth thick paste. Oil your hands. Take a little of the rice paste
250 gms sugar
and shape a pidi (small dumpling) of ½ in length and ¼ in thickness.
8 pods green cardamom,
Repeat the process till the paste is used up. Arrange the pidis on a
powdered
banana leaf. Steam for 30 minutes.
Using a little water, grind the second rice mixture to a fine batter.
Serves
Extract 500 ml thick milk from the coconut. Use the residue to get
750 ml thin milk.
Peel and cut the bananas into 2, lengthwise. Slice into 5 mm bits.
Cook the sliced bananas in 250 ml of thin coconut milk. Keep aside.
Mix the rice batter prepared earlier with the remaining thin
coconut milk. Cook the mixture on low flame, stirring continuously
to avoid forming lumps. When it thickens, add sugar and a little
salt. Bring the mixture to a boil. Add the cooked bananas and the
steamed pidis. Continue stirring on low heat for a few more minutes.
Add powdered cardamom to the thick coconut milk and pour it into
the cooking mixture. If the consistency is too thick, add some water.
Bring it to the boil and remove immediately from the heat. Serve
warm or chilled.
Classic Malabar Recipes 109
Pazham Nirachathu
Fried stuffed bananas
In Malabar, the nendran variety of bananas is used to prepare this
dish. But any large yellow banana can also be used.

Method
Steam the bananas till the skin splits. Cool, peel and keep aside.
Ingredients
Beat the eggs. Add 2 tbsp sugar and half the powdered
2 slightly overripe bananas cardamom and beat again. Melt ghee and fry the chopped nuts and
2 eggs
raisins to a light brown. Add the beaten eggs. Cook on low heat till
6 tbsp sugar
the eggs are done. Keep aside.
6 pods green cardamom,
powdered Heat the oil and fry the whole peeled bananas until brown.
1 tbsp ghee Remove and cool. Make 3 long slits on the sides of each banana,
1 tbsp chopped cashew nuts without separating the sections. Fill the bananas with the scrambled
1 tbsp raisins eggs. Press the banana lightly between your palms, to close it.
Sunflower oil for frying Make a thick syrup with the remaining sugar and 100 ml water.
100 ml water Add the powdered cardamom. Pour the syrup over the stuffed
bananas.
Serves This dessert can be prepared several hours in advance. It tastes
best at room temperature.
Pazham Pandathil
Scrambled bananas with sugar syrup
Ripe yellow bananas are sautéed in ghee
and then cooked with scrambled eggs. The
dish is served with a topping of sugar syrup.
Ingredients
3 ripe bananas (nendran)
Method 2 eggs
4 tbsp sugar
Cut the bananas into small bits. Beat the eggs with 1 tbsp sugar and
2 tsp ghee
keep aside.
5–6 cashew nuts, chopped
Heat the ghee and fry the banana pieces till they turn brown. 1 tbsp raisins
Add nuts and raisins to the frying bananas. Drain excess ghee from 50 ml water
the pan. Add the beaten eggs to the pan. Stir gently till the eggs are 4 pods green cardamom, powdered
done. Make a syrup by boiling 50 ml water and the remaining sugar.
Add the powdered cardamom to the syrup. Serves
To serve, put the scrambled bananas into a serving bowl. Pour the
sugar syrup on top.
 Mutta Maala
Sweet egg yolk strings
Mutta maala, meaning egg-garland, is
the best known of Mappila desserts. It
occupies pride of place in a festive meal,
particularly at weddings.
Ingredients
20 eggs
750 ml water Method
500 gms sugar Separate the egg yolks and egg whites. Keep the egg whites aside.
6 pods green cardamom, Strain the yolks through a muslin cloth into a clean dry bowl. Beat
powdered them lightly.
Salt Make a syrup with sugar and water. Bring it to the boil. Drop
a little egg white into it. When the scum rises, remove it. Do this
Serves several times till the syrup is clear and has a one-string consistency.
In Malabar, a jackfruit leaf cone or a coconut shell, with a very
tiny aperture pierced into its base, is used to trickle the egg yolk into
the sugar syrup. If neither of the above is available, take a plastic cup
and pierce a pen-nib-sized hole, about 2 mm, in the base. Fill egg yolk
in the cup, covering the hole with your finger. Hold the cup over the
boiling syrup, remove your finger and let the yolk drip into the syrup
in a circular motion to form long strands or ‘garland’. The yolk sets
very quickly (about 3 minutes). Lower the heat and sprinkle 1 tbsp
cold water over it.
With a long-handled spoon, carefully lift the yolk-strands without
breaking them. Spread them out in a shallow dish. The dish should
be placed at a slight tilt so that the excess syrup drains away.
Continue the process till all the yolk is used up.
Cool the sugar syrup. Whip the egg whites. Add the powdered
cardamom, a pinch of salt and the cooled sugar syrup to the egg
white. Pour the mix into a greased shallow dish and steam till done.
Remove and cool. Cut into diamond-shaped pieces and serve with
the egg yolk strings.
Classic Malabar Recipes 113
 Lakkottappam
Crêpe envelopes
A crêpe, wrapped around a sweet egg-
coconut filling, is wrapped in a larger crêpe
to give this moist, rich dessert.

Ingredients Method
4 eggs Beat 2 eggs with milk. Stir in the flour. Add salt and sufficient water
100 ml milk to make a thin pancake batter. Keep aside.
150 gms refined flour Cook together grated coconut, half the powdered cardamom and
Salt, a pinch 50 ml water, stirring frequently. When the mixture is dry, add 2 tsp
150 gms grated coconut ghee, 2 lightly beaten eggs, half the quantity of sugar, chopped nuts
8 pods green cardamom,
and raisins. Continue to stir till the mix reaches the consistency of
powdered
scrambled eggs.
2 tsp ghee
1 tbsp chopped cashew nuts Make a thin pancake of about 3 in diameter. Place 1 tbsp of egg
1 tbsp raisins filling in the centre; fold the edges to form a square envelope. Press
150 gms sugar the edges firmly to make them stick. Keep the envelope aside. Next,
make a pancake that is larger than the first one. Place a bit of the
Serves filling in the centre. Then, place the first envelope on top of this
filling. Fold the edges of the second pancake to cover the first one
completely. Keep it on a plate. Make similar double-layered envelopes
till the batter is used up. Add 1 cup of water to the remaining sugar
(75 gms) and heat it to make a thin sugar syrup. Add the remaining
powdered cardamom to it, stir well and remove from the heat. Place
the envelopes on a wide serving dish and pour the syrup over them,
before serving.
Ingredients Vaattilappam
125 ml water
250 gms jaggery
5 eggs
Coconut milk and jaggery pudding
250 ml thick coconut milk Palm jaggery is used in combination
25 gms cashew nuts, chopped
25 gms raisins with coconut milk and eggs to make this
1 tsp ghee delicious steamed pudding.
Serves
Method
Bring the water to a boil. Add the jaggery to it. When it has melted
completely, remove, strain and allow the syrup to cool. Beat the
eggs. Add coconut milk and jaggery syrup to the eggs. Mix well.
Grease a 5 to 6 in diameter round cake tin or mould. Place the
mould in a steamer. Pour in the coconut milk and jaggery mix.
Sprinkle nuts and raisins on top. Steam the mix on medium heat for
30–40 minutes. Remove, cool and turn it over into a dish. Cut the
cake into pieces and serve chilled.
Chatti Pathiri
Layered chapatti cake
Alternating layers of chapattis and sweet
egg filling are baked to make an exotic
layered cake.

Method Ingredients
Mix 1 tsp ghee and a pinch of salt with the flour. Make soft dough 100 gms ghee
using a little water. Roll out 6 thin chapattis of about 8 in diameter. Salt, a pinch
Heat a griddle and roast each chapatti for about 30 seconds. When it 150 gms refined flour
is half-done, remove and keep it in a covered dish. 10 eggs
100 gms sugar
Beat 4 eggs with 4 tbsp sugar and half the cardamom powder.
8 pods green cardamom,
Heat a frying pan. Melt 1 tbsp ghee. Scramble the beaten eggs. Beat
powdered
6 eggs with the remaining sugar, cardamom powder and milk. Keep 75 ml milk
the mixture aside. In a skillet, heat a little ghee. Deep-fry the chopped 75 gms cashew nuts, chopped
cashew nuts and raisins, and mix these with the scrambled eggs. 75 gms raisins
Dry-roast the poppy seeds separately. 2 tbsp poppy seeds
Take a round cake tin (8 in diameter). Grease the base with 1 tbsp
of ghee. Dip a chapatti in the milk-egg mix and place it in the tin. Serves
Spread a portion of the scrambled egg. Follow this up by sprinkling
¼ tsp roasted poppy seeds on it. Pour 4 tbsp of the milk-egg mix and
1 tbsp of melted ghee on it. Repeat the process with the remaining
chapattis. When you reach the last layer, spread the scrambled egg
and poppy seeds on it. Pour the remaining milk-egg mix all over it.
Cover the tin with a foil and place it in the oven. Bake till the top layer
turns golden brown. Remove, cool and turn the cake over on a flat
dish. Cut into wedges and serve.
Kasa Pathiri
Steamed rice cake
A lavish dessert that combines layers of
steamed rice batter with a filling of eggs,
raisins and nuts. Roasted poppy seeds give
it a special flavour.

Method Ingredients
Clean and soak the raw rice for 3–4 hours. Grind it to a very smooth 150 gms raw rice/kaima rice
10 eggs
batter using a little water.
300 gms sugar
Beat 2 eggs with 6 tbsp sugar and add to the rice batter. Add half
8 pods green cardamom,
the cardamom powder and a pinch of salt. The mix should have a powdered
pouring consistency, so add more water if needed. Salt, a pinch
Beat 6 eggs with 6 tbsp sugar. Add milk and the remaining 125 ml milk
cardamom powder to this mixture. 1½ tbsp poppy seeds
Dry-roast the poppy seeds and remove from the heat. Melt 2 tsp 50 gms ghee
ghee. Fry the chopped cashew nuts and raisins and keep them aside. 50 gms cashew nuts, chopped
In the same ghee, scramble the remaining 2 eggs with the sugar. Add 50 gms raisins
the fried nuts and raisins to the egg-rice batter.
Grease a round pan of 8 in diameter with 1 tbsp ghee. Place it Serves
in the steamer. Pour in 5 tbsp of the rice batter and steam it. When
done, spread a little ghee over the cooked layer. Now, pour in 5 tbsp
of the milk-egg mix and spread some of the scrambled eggs. Sprinkle
this with roasted poppy seeds. Steam again till done. Repeat the
process, till all the rice batter and the milk-egg mix are used up.
When done, turn it over onto a flat dish. Cool and cut into small
pieces before serving.
Beverages

The custom of breaking the

Ramadan fast with a few dates and
a sweetened drink has led to the
creation of some typical
Mappila beverages.

Lime and Poppy Seeds Drink

Sulaimani
Almond-flavoured Milk
Thari Kaachiyathu
Classic Malabar Recipes 119
Ingredients Lime and Poppy Seeds Drink
¼ tsp poppy seeds
700 ml water This refreshing beverage is used to break
1 tbsp lime juice
Sugar, to taste
the fast during Ramadan.
Serves
Method
Soak the poppy seeds in 100 ml water for an hour.
To 600 ml water, add sugar, lime juice and the soaked
poppy seeds. Stir well. Chill. Before serving add a few ice
cubes.

Sulaimani
The delicate lime flavour of this tea makes
it the perfect beverage to end a hearty
biriyani meal. It is believed that this drink
Ingredients cleanses the stomach and aids digestion.
500 ml water
4 pods green cardamom
¼ tsp tea dust
1 tbsp lime juice Method
Sugar, to taste Heat water in a pan. Just as the first bubbles appear, add the
opened cardamom pods with the seeds. When the water is boiling,
Serves add the tea dust. Turn off the heat. Cover the pan with a lid. Let the
infusion stand for about 3 minutes. Remove the lid. Add lime juice
and sugar. Strain and serve immediately.
Almond-flavoured Milk Ingredients
This energising drink tastes best when 75 gms almonds
25 gms cashew nuts
served chilled. 500 ml milk
10 tbsp sugar
3 pods green cardamom,
Method powdered
800 ml water
Soak the almonds in hot water for an hour. Peel and grind the 6 drops almond essence
almonds and cashew nuts to a fine paste. Boil the milk and cool it Salt, a pinch
to room temperature. To the cooled milk, add the almond-cashew
nut paste, sugar, powdered cardamom, water, almond essence and Serves
a pinch of salt. Mix well in a blender.

Thari Kaachiyathu Ingredients

1 tbsp ghee
Made from semolina, this hot beverage ½ tsp shallots
400 ml water
is served when the fast is broken during 3 ½ tbsp semolina
Ramadan. 500 ml milk
½ cup sugar
Salt, a pinch
5 pods green cardamom,
Method powdered
Heat 1 tsp ghee and fry the shallots till light brown. Add 400 ml 6 cashew nuts
water and semolina, stirring well to avoid forming lumps. When ½ tbsp raisins
the liquid starts to boil, add milk. Cook on medium heat for about
5 minutes. Add sugar, salt and cardamom powder. When the Serves
semolina is well-cooked and blended, remove from the heat. Melt
the remaining ghee and fry the chopped nuts and raisins. Strain
and add them to the drink.
Resources
Basic Recipes
Mappila Garam Masala
Garam masala is used extensively in Mappila
cuisine. It is a highly individual eight-spice powder
that gives the food its distinctive flavour and
aroma. The Mappila garam masala powder is
noteworthy for the complete absence of pepper.
Housewives in Malabar always prefer to make the
powder at home after sun-drying the whole spices.
Interestingly, Arab cuisine also uses a spice powder
known as baharat, though that is somewhat
different in composition.

Mappila Garam Masala

Ingredients
1½ tbsp each:
cloves, green cardamom, cumin seeds, cinnamon,
mace, shahjeera (caraway seeds)
2 tbsp aniseed
1 large nutmeg
Method
Mix the ingredients and dry in the sun for 6–8
hours. Powder the spices together in a dry grinder.
Store the masala in an air-tight container.
Use of Coconut
Coconut is ubiquitous in Malayali cuisine. Fresh
mature coconut is preferred. A special kitchen
instrument, the coconut grater, is used to extract
fine gratings of the white coconut meat. In its
absence, the coconut meat can be cut into small
pieces and grated in an electric grinder.
To make coconut milk
Grate 1 coconut. Sprinkle 100 ml water over the
gratings. Squeeze out the thick first extract (first
milk). To the residual gratings, add 200 ml water
and squeeze to get the thinner second extract.
Tender green coconut is prized for its cool and
refreshing water.
If using canned milk, the undiluted milk is
the first extract. For the second extract, mix the
coconut milk and water in 1:1 proportion (1 cup
milk with 1 cup water).
Use of Tamarind
Tamarind is the preferred souring agent in Malabar.
It is used in many fish curries. The preferred form
is thick tamarind juice. To make tamarind juice,
soak tamarind (quantity as per recipe) in lukewarm
water for at least 10 minutes. Squeeze the
tamarind with your fingers to get a pulp. Strain and
use the thick, dark brown juice.
Suggested Menus
Breakfast
Puttu
Meen Mulakittathu
Mutta Sirka
Egg Roast

Lunch
Option 2
Option 1
Kallumakkai Unda
Appam Nirachathu
Vatti Pathiri
Kameer
Meen Molly
Kozhi Kurma
Channa Chuttathu
Erachi Ishtew
Kozhi Biriyani
Muttakoos Thoran
Thenga Chutney
Thenga Chutney
Eenthappazham Pickle
Eenthappazham Pickle
Pappad
Vaattilappam
Kelanji
Ghee

Dinner
Option 1 Option 2
Chemmeen Ada Meen Pathiri
Kakkarotti Nei Pathiri
Kannan Pathiri Erachi Aanam
Kozhi Kurma Mutton Biriyani
Kozhi Porichathu Thenga Chutney
Meen Biriyani Eenthappazham Pickle
Puli Chutney
Thenga Chutney
Pappad
Lakkottappam

Party Menu Dessert

Almond-flavoured Milk Nei Pathiri Mutta Maala
Alisa Chemmeen Varattiyathu Chatti Pathiri
Petti Pathiri Mutton Biriyani
Erachi Adukkorotti Eenthappazham Pickle
Vatti Pathiri Chutney
Aakoli Nirachathu Pappad
Kozhi Thalayana
Travel Resources
Airports and Airlines
CALICUT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT,
Karipur 0483–271 1314
Location: 26 km south of Kozhikode
Air India Express 0483–271 2401
Indian Airlines 0483–271 0100
Jet Airways 0483–271 2375
Sri Lankan Airlines 0483–271 7757
TOURIST INFORMATION
Thrissur
District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC),
Palace Road, Chembukkavu 0487–232 0800
Palakkad
District Tourism Promotion Council,
Near Children’s Park, Palakkad 0491–253 8996
Malappuram
District Tourism Promotion Council
0483–273 1504
Kozhikode
Kozhikode Railway Station 0495–270 2606
Karipur Airport 0483–271 2762
District Tourism Promotion Council 0495–272 0012
Wayanad
District Tourism Promotion Council, Kalpetta
04936–202 134 Pookot 04936–255 207
Kannur
District Tourism Promotion Council, Near Civil
Station, Kannur 0497–270 6336
Kasaragod
District Tourism Promotion Council
0499–425 6450
Bekal Resorts Development Corporation,
Bekal Fort 04997–227 2007
RAILWAYS
For long journeys, trains are best, for the panoramic
views and the relatively relaxed journeys that they
offer. You can choose from second class unreserved,
second class sleeper, first class and air-
conditioned travel. AC chair cars are available
for day journeys, while there are two-tier and
three-tier sleeper compartments for overnight
journeys. There are also compartments reserved
only for women. www.indianrail.gov.in
CURRENCY
Denominations available for currency notes
are `1000, `500, `100, `50, `20, `10 and
`5. Coins are available in `5, `2, `1 and 50 p
denominations. Keep small change with you if
you need to travel by auto rickshaw or bus as
recovering your balance can be a problem.
LANGUAGE
Malayalam is widely spoken in Kerala. The
employees in resorts and star hotels are well-
versed in English, but outside these confines,
using English might pose a problem. The locals
are most comfortable with Malayalam and rarely
speak in English though they are quite familiar
with the language. When going about without
a guide or interpreter, it is best to carry a basic
phrase book. In spite of the language barrier, you
will find people very helpful.
NEW NAMES
All cities and towns in Kerala are referred
to by their new names (actually old names
before they were anglicised by the British).
Old Name New Name
Badagara Vatakara
Calicut Kozhikode
Cannanore Kannur
Cranganore Kodungallur
Palghat Palakkad
Quilon Kollam
Sultan’s Battery Sulthan Bathery
Tellicherry Thalassery
Trichur Thrissur
Where to eat
Kozhikode Thalassery KR BISCUIT COMPANY
MG Road, Old Bus Stand
0490–232 2140 8 am to 10 pm
RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS
JAYABHARATHI SWEET STALL
ZAINS PARIS HOTEL MG Road
Convent Cross Road Logans Road 0490–232 2635 8:15 am to 7:45 pm
0495–236 6311 12 noon to 11 pm 0490–234 2666 6 am to 11 pm
BOMBAY RESTAURANT
Silk Street
RARA AVIS RESTAURANT Kannur
Majestic Complex, Narangapuram
0495–236 6730 0490–232 2043, 234 3942 RESTAURANTS
HOTEL SAGAR 7:30 am to 11 pm
Near KSRTC Bus Stand, HOTEL WESTEND HOTEL ODHEN’S
Mavoor Road 0495–272 0152 Near Government Hospital, Old Bus Stand Onden Road 98953 6115
0490–232 6265 7 am to 10 pm 7 am to 5 pm
PARAGON RESTAURANT
Kannur Road BAKERIES SONA MULTI CUISINE RESTAURANT
0495–276 7020/1020 Near Nikshan Electronics, Bank Road
MAMBALLY’S ROYALE BAKERS 0497–276 0046, 320 1177
BAKERIES No 45/1901/B 12, Harbor City, BAKERIES
REGAL BAKES Government Hospital Road
0490–234 4578, 98950 12578
REMA BAKERY
Gandhi Road-Kannur Road Junction MA Road
0495–236 1515 9 am to 9 pm 9:30 am to 9 pm 0497–276 3377 7 am to 10 pm

Ayisha Manzil
A 150-year-old house on a hilltop overlooking
the Arabian Sea, Ayisha Manzil seems to
straddle the time-space continuum with aplomb.
more laidback era.
But not for long. The tantalising aromas drifting
out of the kitchen in the back of the house make
Built by an estate manager named Murdoch sure of that. It is a heavy-duty kitchen, from where
Brown in 1862, it is a house with a history. For a emerges an array of delicious regional dishes. While
start, Brown is credited with having introduced the hands that create them are Faiza’s, it is her
the Christmas cake to Kerala. husband Moosa, who gently encourages you to
In 1900, the property was picked up by a gormandise. The couple has converted their home
local trader. A succession of judges lived in it into a highly successful home-stay. While one can
for the next five years and it was called Judge’s enjoy a restful holiday, an added incentive to visit
Bungalow. Then a traders’ family moved in and it the place is the six-day cookery course that Faiza
was renamed Ayisha Manzil after the lady of the conducts in the intricacies of Malabar cuisine.
house. It has remained in the family since then. Ayisha Manzil
The present owner C. P. Moosa is a hotelier; his Court Road, Thalassery
wife Faiza is a renowned cookery expert who has 0490 234 1590, 09847 002340
made the regional cuisine of Malabar her forte. ayishamanzil@rediffmail.com
Ayisha Manzil is a house with an atmosphere.
The high-ceilinged rooms are chock-a-block
with antiques from all over the world. The old-
worldly air comes alive in different ways. Wooden
floorboards creak under the weight of footfalls,
civets play noisy games on the roof and wind
sighs quietly through the tall trees that screen
the house from the world’s gaze. Stretched out
in a planter’s chair in the veranda, watching an
Arabian Sea sunset, one can easily return to a
Recipe Index
A K S
Adukkorotti 40 Kaippa Theeyal 97 Meen Aanam 88 Semiya Biriyani 59
Akoli Nirachathu 85 Kaithachakka Meen Biriyani 54 Sulaimani 120
Alisa 26 Pachadi 105 Meen Chaaru 89 T
Almond-flavoured Kakkarotti 81 Meen Kakkathil 86 Thari Kaachiyathu 121
Milk 121 Kallumakkai Meen Molly 89 Thenga Choru 62
Appam 43 Porichathu 91 Meen Mulakittathu 87 Thenga Chutney 105
Appam Nirachathu 28 Kameer 44 Meen Pathiri 49 U
Ari Kadukka 32 Kannan Pathiri 46 Mutta Chaar 72 Unnakkai 34
C Kasa Pathiri 117 Mutta Kakkathil 73 V
Channa Chuttathu 76 Kelanji 35 Muttakoos Thoran 94 Vaattilappam 115
Chatti Pathiri 116 Koonthal Porichathu 91 Mutta Maala 112 Vatti Pathiri 47
Cheera Varavu 96 Kozhi Biriyani 57 Mutta Sirka 42 Vazhuthana Theeyal 95
Chemmeen Ada 30 Kozhi Kurma 69 Mutton Biriyani 57 Venda Pachadi 102
Chemmeen Kozhi Nirachathu 68 N
Varattiyathu 90 Kozhi Porichathu 71 Nei Choru 63
Chena Porichathu 94 Kozhi Thalayana 67 Nei Pathiri 44
E Kozhi Varuthathu 71 P
Eenthappazham L Pachakkari Biriyani 60
Pickle 103 Lakkottappam 114 Pachakkari Ishtew 99
Erachi Aanam 78 Lime and Poppy Seeds Pazham Nirachathu 110
Erachi Adukkorotti 41 Drink 120 Pazham Pandathil 111
Erachi Choru 58 M Petti Pathiri 29
Erachi Ishtew 77 Malabar Chemmeen Pidi Kari 108
Erachi Porichathu 78 Biriyani 53 Puli Chutney 103
Erachi Puttu 38 Manga Kaalan 98 Puttu 38

Note: We have used both centimetres and inches for measurements so that the reader can get an
accurate idea of the size and shape of the dish.
Photograph Sources

DC Books sourced 19 photographs that appear on the following pages:

Pages 2 and 3, Page 10, Page 12, Page 13, Page 14, Page 15, Page 18, Page
22, Page 63, Pages 64 and 65, Pages 74 and 75, Pages 82 and 83, Page 91
(Image of fried squid), Pages 92 and 93, Page 94 (Image of fried yam), Pages
100 and 101, Page 103, Pages 118 and 119 and Page 122.

Mr. C. P. Moosa sourced the 10 photographs on the following pages:

Front cover, Page 16, Page 17, Page 19, Page 20, Page 23, Page 36, Page 44
and Page 126.

All the remaining photographs were obtained from Stark World Publishing
Pvt. Ltd.
Acknowledgements
I am deeply thankful to a lot of people who have helped me create this book.
My mother, from whom I learnt the essentials of cooking. For helping me
understand that being a good cook is about being a good human being too.
If it wasn’t for Mr. Mohammed Hanish IAS, who recommended my work to
Ravi Deecee who wholeheartedly agreed to publish it, my dream of this book
would not have come true.
Mr. George Dominic and Mr. Shailender, of the Casino Group of Hotels, for
their help and support.
Mr. P. N. Shanavas and his team at Stark World Publishing Pvt. Ltd. for helping
me with the creation of this book. My special thanks to Mr. Roy Mathew of
Stark World for his support in making this a reality.
Mr. Ravi Deecee, Managing Editor, DC Books, for his faith in my work and his
keenness to publish this book.
The editorial team at DC Books for their support in preparing my work for
publication.
And my husband, Mr. C. P. Moosa, for being with me all the time.