1.

Product Development Stage

Pre-requirements to start an order /program

 ZXY merchandiser must receive following requirements from the buyer.

A. Approved major material samples

I. Leather
II. Coated fabric/Synthetic
III. Fabric
B. Approved other material swatches ( Insole , top ups, synthetic sole, heel counter)
C. Specification sheet.

 In general 3 major components are used in shoe manufacturing

A. Upper & lining material

I. Coated fabric / Synthetic
II. Fabric
III. Leather
B. Bottom material
I. Synthetic sole
C. Inner material
I. In sole
II. Top ups

A.1. Coated fabric / Synthetic

 In general coated fabric could have thickness variations. So it’s must check for
consistence in thickness and color.
 As coated fabric comes as rolls, must do shade separation and store shade wise.
 No need relaxation for long time relax fabric after layering on cutting table for 20
minutes.
 Basically coated fabric stretch 15-20% across & 6-7% in length wise. So need to
consider this in pattern making.
 Laminating done if required, which will reduce strechability.
 Skiving is avoided for coated fabric as it could damage fabric.
 When use coated fabric for following points always use re-enforcements.
I. Top lines
II. Seams
III. throat covers
IV. perforated flexing area
 As re-enforcements – only Self-adhesive tapes can used in coated fabrics.
 Coating addition must be tested. If buyer request tear strength & tensile strength
will test.
 In cutting maximum 4-8 layers allowed. (One layer is 0.5 mm to 1mm thick).

A.2 Fabric

 Fabric is test for

I. Color fastness to rubbing (Wet & dry)
II. Color fastness to precipitation
III. Color fastness to water
IV. Color fastness to artificial light
V. Color fastness to water spotting

A.3 Leather

 Measure length & width with leather measurement machine and sorted to minimize
wastage
 After size wise sorting, shade separation done through visual inspection.
 Collect samples (3*1 inch) for testing from each leather sheet
I. Butt – Toe cap / vamps & component could subject to high
stretch
II. Shank - decorative & small components
III. Belly- Inside quarter , straps, back counter, lounge
IV. Shoulder –quarter , back stripe
V. Neck- decorative parts & small pieces
 Test for
I. Tensile strength
II. Tear strength
III. Basic testing
 Leather must be stored under special conditions/ specialized room RH level between
60-70% to avoid mold issues.
B. Inner material
B.1. Insole

 Must pass flexibility test

 Cracks should be 100% avoided
 Must have a clear cut shape
 Must be heat resistance
 B.2 Top ups
 Skiving must be 30-50 of material original thickness
 Mainly goes through bonding process. If buyer didn’t provided specification it should
come from factory production development/technical team.
C. Bottom Material
C.1 Synthetic sole

 Sole material if in house (if no buyer approved material) it must be 100% align with
buyer approved swatch.
I. No air bubble
II. No color shading
III. No burn marks
IV. No twisting
V. Must be 100% flat / no rocking
VI. Shape outs are not allowed
VII. Cutting raw edges are not allowed
 Sole output is must checked by a QC for above quality points.
 Especially sole pairs test check for shading and bundle together with a rubber band
to avoid mixing.
 No testing for synthetic sole along, only test after completing full shoe.

Common testing for all materials (Coated fabric / Leather / Leather)

Chemical testing Physical testing

Color fastness Tensile strength
Harmful substances Tear strength
Banned azo coloration Color fastness to rubbing
Antibacterial test Upper material flexibility test
Antimicrobial test Abrasion test
Anti-yellow test

Common testing for a complete shoe

I. Sole bonding
II. Flexibility test
III. Color fastness
IV. Pull test
V. Color shading
VI. Fastener, fatigue & accessory quality
VII. Size fitting test
 VIII. Weight test
IX. Bar code scanning test
X. Test for metal
XI. Adhesive test
XII. Water proof test
XIII. Burn test
XIV. Slip resistance
XV. Stitching reinforcement strength
XVI. Lace strength & durability
XVII. Complete shoe flexing
XVIII. Lace strength & durability
XIX. Pulling test for eyelets

Material inspection for leather, coated fabric and synthetic materials

 Visual inspection
I. Coated fabric & fabric materials – Color shading
II. Leather – Brand mark , Flay cuts, growth mark, Scratches , vein marks,
loose grain , color shading
 Thickness difference is measured by venire scale . Maximum 0.5 mm variance is
allowed.

 In shoe manufacturing prior to pp meeting bulk two types of samples are produced.

I. Development Sample
II. Production Samples

I. Development Sample
 In general buyer provide following items prior to development sample production.
I. CFM Sample
II. Approved trims
III. Approved specification sheet
IV. Approved raw materials
 ZXY merchandiser receive above items from buyer and will be hand over to factory
through a standard style hand over meeting.
 But if buyer only provided CFM sample merchant should hand over it to factory in
advance.
 Factory Technical and sample room will responsible to produce
1. Specification sheet
2. Material specification sheet
3. Pattern
4. Development sample
 After developing above criteria’s factory is responsible to forward development
sample, material specification sheet and pattern to zxy merchant.
 ZXY merchant send same information to buyer and take approval.
 Factory PDS team and ZXY representatives have an internal meeting before start
sample process.
 Based on meeting ZXY merchant should create a micro T & A for the style.
 First PD samples create with available materials until pattern is approved.
 After pattern approved produce one pair from each size with original materials and
send it for testing.
 Testing must do in a buyer approved lab.
 If testing pass send both DS and CFM sample to buyer for final approval.
 Buyer will send back the approved DS sample with CFM sample.

B. Production Sample Room

 Following CFM sample produce 3 pairs from each 8, 9, 10 sizes with original
materials (Sample shoe sizes could vary according to buyer requirement)
 Factory production sample room technician, quality, production, IE team & ZXY
representative arrange a production sample meeting after production sample
completion to decide,
I. Machine layout
II. Number of operators
III. Construction methods
IV. Critical points
V. Folders and attachments
 Production sample meeting objectives :
I. To avoid any discrepancies between product development sample
room and production sample room.
II. To check the bulk production capability of particular style
 One pair from this send to buyer with CFM sample by ZXY merchant for approval.
 Factory & zxy merchant & QA team will communicate with buyer for any method or
construction change.
 If any issue with material first discuss among factory sample room team members
how they have done it in DS. If can’t solve by either party go to buyer through zxy
merchant.
 PP meeting

 Pp meeting is done prior to pp sample production.

 Meeting should arrange by factory QA and ZXY merchant as per micro T & A.
 Before PP ZXY QAM, QA, QC must make sure following requirements are fulfil.
I. Approved CFM sample & CFM sample comments
II. For coated fabric and fabric color continuity card or shade
separation approval
III. All material testing reports
IV. Development sample and comments
V. Production sample and comments
VI. Approved spec
VII. Approved material swatch board / trim card
VIII. Approved specification file / tech pack
IX. Factory T & A and production plan
X. Sample requirements
XI. Any buyer specified lab testing requirements
XII. Critical technical issues
XIII. Final layout
 In pp discuss any difficulty in any critical operations highlighted in DS & PS stages to
clarify best and most efficient method for bulk.
 PS room will prepare sewing layout and it will discuss in PP meeting to finalize.
 Discuss Assembly layout, methods and finalize.

Cutting
 Receive material from stores, and check it against approved swatch before send to
cutting mini store.
 Cutting raw material handling
I. Leather handling
II. Coated fabric handling
III. Fabric handling
I. Leather
I. Cut by using press clicking machine.
II. Use die cutting :
a) Must check for evenness on a glass plate
b) Templates and die must 100% check again
pattern
c) Die shapes must check against templates.
d) Die cutting edge must sharp, neat and not
damaged.
 e) Die must store on racks, style wise & free from
rust.
f) Never store one over each other to avoid
cutting edge damage.
g) If die cutting edge damaged must repair or
replaced.
h) Die height should be 90 mm foe leather

 One time only one die can be used for cutting. If used several dies it will cause
pressure spreading un-even and cutting defects will arise.
 Cutting pressure is decide by technician.
 Leather check for stretch direction before cutting. Always cut against stretch
direction.
Ex: If stretch width wise cutting is done on length wise

 Quality check for die cut components

a) Check against pattern
b) Check for defects :
I. Cutting defects- cutting edge damage at central marks
it will replaced, Cutting edge should always slope, and
Size marks must be very clear and precise, if cut part
not separated by die cutter have to manually separate
it.

II. Cutting component check: Flayers, Looseness, stretch

marks, holes, stick marks, pair shading , vain marks
 Die cut components bundle as pairs and add number sticker. Same number goes for
each piece of a pair.
 Store in 30-40 pairs in poly bags place on cutting storage racks as per style, PO, job
number.

II. Coated Fabric / Synthetic

 Cutting is done layer wise.

 Always same layer fold over each other (Face to Face)
 In order to avoid displacement must punch around layer and tightly knot.
 Minimum 2 operators need to feed layer in cutting machine.
 Maximum number of layers depend on thickness of coated fabric,
A. If thickness > 1mm – only 4 layers allowed
 Ex; Merry mesh coated fabric
B. If thickness <1mm – 4- 6 layers is allowed
 Cut using 32mm die with travelling head clicking machine.
 Only one die use for one time.
 Follow same process as leather for numbering and bundling.
 Poly bag has a tag with all style and cutting details (Style, Po, color, Cut number, size,
pcs)
 Poly bagged panels inspect as pairs.

III. Fabric
 Fabric shading must be separated prior to cutting
 Layering is done same as coated fabric. And maximum 8 layers allowed.
 It could be auto cut or die cut.
 Cut panels must specially check for short cuts which could happen due to non-
uniformity of layering.
 After cutting follow same process as coated fabric.

Clicking machine Cutting block/board quality criteria’s

 Cutter must use full cutting board for cutting. Every 2-3 hours board should rotate
and use opposite side for cutting.
 Cutting board thickness must be minimum 20mm thick, must change to a new
cutting board.
 Maximum after 8 hours work cutting board surface must be level by using cutting
board leveling machine.
 Only use polyethylene as board materials, and PVC materials are totally prohibited.

 Depending on style and buyer requirement material thickness control can be done in
two ways

I. 100% flat surface – done by splitting machine

II. Only edge thickness control – Skiving machine
(Note- Edge thickness reduce is a must in any style)

I. 100% flat surface- Splitting process

 Used to make material surface 100% uniform.

 Only used if received material thickness is out of buyer requirement.
 Splitting machine band knife must be sharp and neat.
 II. Edge thickness control - Skiving process

 Skiving is used only on leather upper components, top-ups and counter pocket
chemical sheet.
 There are three major skiving practices used in shoe manufacturing,

Type Depth & width of Use Notes

skiving
Fold skiving Depth- Half of Whenever folding Suitable for heavy
material thickness is needed leather
Width- twice the
folding margin /
10mm
Open raw edge Depth- 1/3 of When upper Make sure sewing
material thicknesssection left with allowance can’t
Width- 1.5-2mm raw edges after affect by process
cutting, to remove
it and give a neat
appearance
Under lay skiving Depth- Taper Done on bottom Must add stich
down gradually to component to marking before
zero avoid any bumping process
Width – 2 or 3mm
behind under lay
margin (underlay
margin generally
= 8mm)

Embellishments
I. Embroidery
II. Embossing
III. Printing
A. Heat seal
B. Screen printing
C. Foil print
I- Embroidery

 If buyer didn’t provide embroidery pattern, factory is responsible to develop

and get the approval from buyer through ZXY merchant.
 All threads and shades must approved by buyer.
 Size wise embroidery placement is included in the approved pattern, and
prior to bulk ZXY QAM must check and approve.
 Embroidery stabilizer is non-removable and fabric.
 Embroidery first bulk must check against approved sample by ZXY
QC/QA/QAM and approve.
 Factory must obtain color wise, size wise approval for placement,
measurement, quality & hand feel from ZXY QAM, merchant or TL/DM.
 Factory must follow all lab test requirements by ZXY or buyer.
 Factory must make sure to follow buyer /ZXY approved standard in bulk.

II. Embossing
 Before bulk embossing mold must approved by buyer.
 Embossing mold could produce by
I. Factory
II. Buyer nominated supplier
 Both cases after plate completion have to send a embossed swatch to buyer
for approval.
 Embossing quality depends on 4 parameters,
I. Pressure
II. Time
III. Temperature
IV. Nature of material (Soft or hard)
 In general embossing pressure is 300Kg and around 40-90 0C and from 2-30
sec.
 Embossed mark must appear on back side of component for better quality.
 After embossing must check for cracking around embossed mark. If crack
must be rejected. And if temperature is not right burning mark could happen.
 Embossing machine board must arranged with a pattern template for
respectable size and placement. So the operator directly place panel over
template.

III. Printing

 ZXY merchant must provide placement, size wise, color, print type and testing
requirements to the factory.
 All printing, is inspected by respectable QC against approved swatch.
 Only required part is send to printing in poly bags with all details.
 Printing QC will check for quality of printing.
A. No blurring
B. Placement & angles must be as per specification
C. Should not crack, peel off, wash, and rub off with finger.
 Must check against approved swatch for color and quality.
 After embellishment components counted and bundle properly and send
back to receiving delivery section to make cut kit.
 Factory should provide swatches from all colors and sizes for ZXY approval.
 If printing is done outside, factory must nominate a QC from their end, and
ZXY QAM will provide him with all relevant details (Approved swatch,
standards etc.).

Sewing section
Line feeding

 Line issuer receive materials form cutting and trims from stores.
 Technician collecting pattern (from pattern section), sample (from sample
responsible person) and approved spec (from quality).
 Technician, production in charge, quality in charge, ZXY QAM/QA/QC and
mechanic must involve.
 Technician feed line, each operator has to stitch 5 pcs and if quality ok,
everyone agreed and move to next operation.
 Feeding time
Basic style – 4-5 hrs
Critical style – 7-8 hrs
 Mockups are put while feeding with quality details. (Stitching allowance, stich
quality, seam quality etc.)
 From first 10 pairs one pair is send to buyer/ ZXY GM/QAM for reference. If
any comments from buyer/ZXY GM/QAM implement in bulk.
 The same buyer approved first bulk sample have to display in front of line
with comments in local language for sewing line reference.

In-line quality process

 Each 3 lines have a QC supervisor.
 Each line critical operations are demarcated by a yellow flag in front of
operator.
 QC supervisor must check all critical quality points every 2 hours by
inspecting 10 pcs from each critical operation. (Or what if factory have any
standard quality control process such as 7/0, traffic light/ SPC we will follow
the same)
 Folding and setting must done by using a template which provided by factory
technical team. So folding and setting will be neat and precise.
 If found more than 2 defects inform technical team and correct it.
 QC check for
I. Stitch tension
II. Stitch length
III. Zig zag stich
IV. Edge distance of stitching
V. Double row of stitching
VI. Back stitching/locking of thread
VII. Webbing lace loop stitching
VIII. Attaching counter
IX. Position of lining at lasting margin
X. Eyelet /hook attachment
XI. Toe puff attachment
XII. Setting allowance & folding allowance
XIII. Upper wrinkling
 QC supervisor must maintain an inline report with all records on it.
 All pattern boards and measurement boards given to line must sign by
respective QA or technical person.
 Label – Issue only one label size per time and operator not allowed to have
few sizes at once. And operator can keep only required number of labels.
 Needle
A. Needle must replace depending on material and sewing time.
This will decide and inform at PP meeting by factory technical
person and ZXY QAM/QA/QC.
B. If needle broken, all pieces must collect and returned to
needle issuer. Needle issuer check & if all components are ok
issue a new needle.
C. If needle broken and pieces missing all shoe components on
front and back machine must send through needle detector.
D. Line supervisor must maintain a needle log
Sewing End line quality process

 First check both uppers of pair is same height

 End line checker is 100% check critical measurements.
I. Back loop measurement
II. Front loop measurement
III. Back height measurement
IV. Back counter height
V. Tongue measurement
VI. Tongue loop measurement

 Each line one end line QC checker. Check shoe in 5 different parameters.
I. Upper Bottom
II. Upper Front
III. Upper Back
 IV. Upper Out side
V. Upper Inside

Upper Bottom
1. Label checking for size, barcode, style, color, production date,
Composition, place of origin, placement, stitching, secure or not,
check as pairs.
2. Tongue – check for length, alignment should be straight, seam should
be secured, dirt/glue/oil marks,
3. Counter sheet –
I. Sports shoes: chemical sheet lining should be open.
Checked for hand feel. If soft ok. If hard sheet is not
there.
II. Leather shoe: paper or PVC mold check for hardness. If
soft sheet is there and ok. But if hard sheet is not
there.

Upper Front
1. Toe puff – Press and check for hardness. If hard toe puff is ok.
2. Toe cap & Vamp – check for shape, Seam, stitching, pair color
shading, visual size balance, quarter attachment point to vamp
should not be up down
3. Inter-tech stitch /Box stitch – inside and outside seam should
be same, no skip
4. Eyelets – checked for broken or damaged eyelets, insecure,
missing alignment , balance, manual test for shoe lace
threading

Upper Back
1. Heel cap / counter pocket- heel cap height must be same
in pair, Top high low should avoided, Top line to heel cap
measurement should be as per CFM sample.
2. Back strap- check for straight and centered, stitch quality,
seam
3. Top line – Check for folding thickness and shape
 4. Collar – Collar folding should be as per CFM and folding
should be same in both pairs.

Upper inside & outside

1. If Label available – check position, measurement, secure or
not, color, content, alignment
2. Decorative stiches – check for balance in pair, seam
quality, stiches, dirt/oil marks, measurements check by
using a gauge

End line defect separation and repairing

 End line check table should have three spate bins for checked shoe
segregation.
Green bin – good shoes
Yellow bin – repairable shoes
Red bin- rejects
 Daily rejection must count and sealed by QC and keep under QA department
until shipment goes.
 Defects must repair on time
 End line defect marking report and defect repair report must update and
maintain.
End line audit

 End line Audit team check 20 pairs in each line twice a day (Morning &
evening).
 Follow internal AQL.
 If audit fail has to recheck by line and re-offer.

 After end line audit shoes will pack in to a poly bag (30-40 pairs) with style
detail tag and forward to assembly section.

Assembly Section
 Issuer bring poly bagged upper and other trims.
 In assembly generally three basic components are combining together to
make the complete shoe (Basic components - Sole, insole and upper)
 2 major construction in assembly section
 I. Stroble
II. Flat lasting
 Whatever the style use same machine settings except
I. Flat lasting
II. Butte upper

 All process in assembly section are almost similar to in all styles with only
minor differences. Below table shows the basic steps of most common
strobe construction.

No Process Quality control

1. Back part molding
Heating- Interface temperature
must be 80-90 0C
Chilling -Interface temperature
must be below 4 0C
Mold must be same as correct as
back part mold
2. Upper storage after back part To maintain shape
molding 1.immediately after chilling store in
a clamp
2. Upper must not stack on each
other
3. Stroble stitching SPI 6-8
Seam width 3-4mm
Insole notch and upper notch 100%
match
Maximum 1mm gap allowed under
tension between stroble and upper

4 Last management Remove dirt or cement

. Last inventory must be sort by style
and size

5. Toe steaming Minimum surface temperature

must be 70 0C
6. Stoble sit lasting Insole must be flat with last , no
wrinkle
Heels must place in sit lasting
machine for minimum 4 seconds
Check heel height on a measuring
flat foam
Heel must be centered and fit back
height pin
7. Lacing of shoes for lasting Holding pin must use for lasting
Use correct lasing hook for tighten
Tung must be under lace and
 straight
Eyelet must parallel

8. Heat setting Mesh- Temperature must be 70-80

0
C at top of shoe
Leather – temperature must be
110-120 0C
9. Marking upper Match sole and upper number
before marking
Marking length maximum 1mm
thick
Pressure - Maximum 2.5 Kg / m2

10. Priming Change priming textile very 30 min

Apply maximum 1mm above the
upper

11 Cementing upper and sole First coat of cement must dry

before applying second coat.
12. Re-activation of upper and Upper & rubber sole- must treat
rubber sole minimum 5-6 min on 55-65 0C
before attach.

Phylone sole– 50-55 0C , 5-6 min

treat before attach & upper – 60-
650C , 5-6 min
13. Fitting of sole and upper Spotting/fitting sequence
1. Toe
2. Heel
3. Waist

Fitting tools must use avoid wrinkle

and smooth sole edge
14 Pressing the sole Maximum within 30 sec after
spotting send to pressing 30 sec
25-45 Kg/cm2 , 12sec minimum
15. Chilling 4-5 min , 0-5 0C temperature
16. De-lasting If manual – lace should be loose
enough
If machine- position must be
correct

Assembly inline quality process

 3 Qc ‘s allocated per line
I. QC 1- after toe and sit lasting
II. QC 2 –after sole bonding
III. QC 3 –End line QC
 Quality check points for stroble construction and flat lasting.

QC Stroble Flat lasting

QC1 1. Lasting margin – measurement 1.Upper of pair must match
(after toe
2. Height of the heel 2. Top line tight and balance
and sit
lasting) 3. Wrinkle in toe area 3. Lasting allowance of
4. Upper is straight / cant twist lasted upper evenly bonded
5. Confirm last and upper is same to the insole
size and style 4. Feather edge free from
creases.
5. waist of the shoe must
hold tight to the last
6. Correct back height &
back seam must be straight
7. Upper placement on last
must be 100% correct and
tight. Otherwise shape
disorientation could
happen.
8. Pleats around lasted
margin shouldn’t extent
above feather line edge.
9. Wrinkles on upper is not
allowed.
10. Roughing must not
exceed up to feather edge
line.
QC2 1. Bonding gap should be zero / no 1. Roughing for sole
(After bonding must not exceed
open areas
sole sole bonding marking.
bonding) 2. Sole and upper toe center and
Other check points are
back should be 100% aligned
same as strobe check points
3. Sole must be straight / avoid
sole twisting

QC 3- Complete shoe checking guideline

 Complete shoe checking done focusing following areas

I. Tongue size label matching to upper size and pair is same

II. Tongue lining should check for wrinkles
III. Hand feeling of inside and check for wrinkles
IV. Both front and back of sole and upper of tip/toe caps must 100%
aligned.
V. Toe cap/tip shape must same in pair.
VI. Vamp shape in pair must be same
VII. Vamp area no wrinkle or staining/dirt
VIII. Eye-stay must be balanced and centered.
IX. Eyelet check –center, not damaged
X. Back side – pair back height must be same (sole height, back counter
height , total height)
XI. Shoe length must be same in pair
XII. Internal/Medial height must be same in pair
XIII. Inside seams, stiches check
XIV. Inside logo placement and balance
XV. Lateral height check
XVI. Sole must clean, no air bubbles, no burn marks, shape distortions, sole
must be straight
XVII. Rocking must avoid
XVIII. Inside volume checking
XIX. All outside decorative parts and stiches

Packing
 After final check all good shoes will go through needle detector.

 Two packing methods

I. Ratio pack
II. Solid packing sample
 Before start packing of a new style factory must pack one shoe as per buyer
requirement and send it to ZXY merchant. ZXY merchant will forward
sample /photo to buyer for packing approval.