Unit of Competency: Raise Organic Chicken Module Title: Raising Organic Chicken Module Description

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN
MODULE TITLE : RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN

MODULE DESCRIPTION : This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes
required to raise organic chicken efficiently and effectively.
It includes selecting healthy stocks, determine suitable
chicken house requirements, install cage equipment, feed
chicken, manage health and growth of chicken and
harvesting activities.
SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the students/trainees will be able to:
LO1. Select healthy stocks
LO2. Determine suitable chicken house requirements
LO3. Install cage/housing equipment
LO4. Feed chicken
LO5. Grow and harvest chicken
1|Page O r g a n i c A g r i c u l t u r e P r o d u c ti o n N C I I
INTRODUCTION
Poultry- a collective term for all domestic birds rendering economic service to man.
Domesticated animals are those that can live and multiply freely under the care of man. This is
also the term for the meat of poultry species.
Advantages of poultry raising

1. High feed efficiency
2. Fast and high return on investment
3. Spreading income throughout the year
4. Low land requirements
5. Adaptability to both small part-time enterprises and large commercial enterprises
Disadvantages of poultry raising

1. Serious problems with diseases and parasites
2. Need for a high level of management ability, especially for large commercial flocks
3. Need a large amount of capital for large operations
4. Limitations of zoning on the location of the flocks
5. Death losses maybe high due to the predators and stampeding
6. Careful marketing is required
7. High volume is needed for an economical enterprise
8. Problems on waste disposal and odor
LO1. SELECT HEALTHY STOCKS AND SUITABLE HOUSING
Breeds of Chicken
Generally, the types of chicken are classified as follows:
Commercial broilers
Commercial layers
Free range poultry
Philippine native chicken
Chicken Breeds in the Philippines

Meat Type (Broiler) Company
Arbor Acres San Miguel Foods Inc.
Cobb Cobb-Vantress Philippines, Inc.
Hubbard Tyson Agro Ventures
Ross Aviagen
Shaver Starbro Universal Robina Farms
Lohmann Console Farms
Egg Type (Layer)
Avian Swift
Babcock White Sarmiento Agricultural Development Corp.
Dekalb White General Milling Corp.
Hisex ISA
Lohmann Console Farms
Free Range
Cornish
Hubbard
Sasso
Philippine Native Chicken
Paraoakan
Darag
Banaba
Bolinao
Camarines
Joloanan
What are the most suitable breeds for organic farms?
The ideal organic poultry should:
 Be feeding on kitchen wastes and farm by-products
 Have satisfactory egg production
 Be useful as source of meat
 Have good resistance against diseases
 Have good health
Signs of healthy stocks:

 Chicken eyes should be clear and shiny. Its eyelids should not be showing. There should
not be any discharge or swelling around the eyes.
 Both nostrils should be clear and open, with no discharge from the nostrils.
 The chicken should have a good beak.
 The chicken should breathe with the mouth closed, except in very hot conditions. If
cooling the bird does not make it breathe with its mouth closed, it is ill.
 The wings of chickens should be carried close to the body in most breeds. The wings
should not droop or look twisted.
 A healthy bird has its feathers smoothed down when it is active. A bird with its feathers
fluffed out that is not sleeping or taking a dust bath is probably ill.
 The three front toes of chickens should point straight ahead, and the feet should not turn
outward. There should be no any swellings on the legs or toes.
 The feathers under the tail of the chicken around the vent should not be matted with
feces, and no any sores or wounds around it.
 The chicken should appear alert and avoid strangers if it is in a lighted area. Birds that are
inactive and allow easy handling are probably ill.
 The chicken is active during the daylight hours.
CHARACTER GOOD LAYER POOR LAYER

Comb and wattles Fully developed, bright, red, Small, pale, shriveled, dry
warm and wavy. and hard
Pubic bones Spread apart, thin and pliable Close together, thick and
hard.
Vent Large, moist, dilated Small, wrinkled
Abdomen Soft with thin skin, expanded Hard with thick skin,
contracted
Span (distance between the About 3-4 fingers in width Contracted, about 2-3 fingers
end of the keel bone to the in width.
end of the pubic bones)
Pigmentation: yellow beaks Bleached or white after Remains yellow even after
and shanks several months of production. several months in laying pen.
Guide in Selecting Stocks to Raise:

 Purchase stock from reliable hatchery or franchised dealer where parent stocks are well-
housed and well-managed.
 The kind of stock to buy depends upon the purpose for which it is going to be raised.
 Chicks should be free from diseases and deformities.
 Broiler chicks should not be less than 33 grams a day-old and they should be of uniform
in size and color.
 A popular strain raised in the community can be selected as it is an indication of good
performance under existing farm conditions.
 For broilers, choose those that have high livability and are fast growers.
 For layers, choose those that have good egg size, high egg production, and long
productive life.
Culling parameters
Housing and Equipment
Poultry housing and equipment are needed for the comfort, protection, and efficient production
of eggs and meat.
1. Location
a. Water supply. Good quality must be available and plentiful.
b. Roads. It is preferable that the poultry buildings are located near an all-weather
road or a highway that is well maintained. This ensures a better access to electric
and telephone line.
c. Topography. It should be high and level with no abrupt slopes. A level area
requires less preparation hence less building cost.
d. Lay-out operation
2. Essentials of good poultry house.
a. Comfort of the birds
b. Convenience of the caretaker
c. Dryness of the floor
d. Durability of the roof and other parts
e. Proper ventilation and other parts
f. Economy of construction
g. Size
h. Easy to clean
Equipment for Poultry:

1. Feeding troughs or feeders. Feeders can be places inside or along the front of the cages.
When making feeders, consider the ease and cleaning and avoidance of feed spillage. Feed
spillage may be avoided by placing a metal or wooden strip along the inner mouth of the feeding
trough.
2. Waterers. The shape and size of the waterers should be semi-circular, fairly wide and
supported by an adjustable bracket to permit easier adjustment. It may have a removal stopper at
the drainage end to allow easier cleaning. For chicks, the waterers are usually one-gallon plastic
jars. The most common waterers are the plastic waterers because they do not rust and last longer.
Backyard poultry raisers usually use bamboo waterers.
3. Portable catching panels. These are usually made of either bamboo, wood or wire frames.
The device comes in handy during vaccination.
4. Feed carts. The feed cart is a handy piece of equipment which can reduce the number of hours
spent in feeding the chickens. It makes the feeding less laborious and tiresome. In the absence of
a feed cart, a wheelbarrow will do.
5. Lamps/bulbs.
LO2. SET-UP CAGE EQUIPMENT
Location Requirements for Poultry Farms:
- A poultry farm must be located outside urban areas.
- It must be located in 25m radius from sources of ground and surface drinking water.
- Medium and large poultry farms must be at least 1000m away from residential,
commercial, institutional and industrial areas.
- Small scale must be at least 500m away from these areas.
Recommended Layout for Poultry Farms:

 If possible, the length of the broiler house should run from east to west. This prevents
direct sunlight from penetrating the side walls of the house, which could cause heat build-
up inside.
 Allocate at least 1 square foot of floor space per bird for proper ventilation.
 If open-sided type of housing, elevate the house about 1.5m from the ground. This
ensures proper circulation of air and easier collection of fecal matter underneath the
house after each harvest.
 The building should be a rat proof, bird proof, cat proof.
 Trees may be planted on the sides of the house to provide shade during hot season and
protection from storms or weather disturbances.
 The roofing should be monitor-type and high enough to provide better air circulation
inside the broiler house.
Bedding Materials:
Typical bedding materials in a chicken house may include: rice hulls, rice straws, wood chips
and peanut shells.
These dry, absorbent materials help keep the ground dry and soft for the chickens.
Rearing of DOCs:
Brooding is the process of supplying artificial heat to the chicks from the time they are taken out
from the incubators up to the time their bodies can control their heat requirements and they are
covered with feathers.
Basic Requirements for Successful Brooding:

a. Good Quality Chicks – quality chicks look active and have dry and fluffy feathers, bright
eyes and well healed navels.
b. Proper Temperature- maintain proper temperature inside the brooding house to make the
chicks more comfortable. Avoid abrupt changes in brooder temperature during the first-
two weeks of life.
Ideal Brooding Temperature Under Philippine Conditions
Age of chicks (weeks) Brooding temperature (Celsius)
0-1 32.2-35.0
1-2 29.4-32.2
2-4 26.7-29.4
 The chicks’ physiological reaction to existing environmental temperature will indicate
whether temperature is right, too low or too high.
- When the temperature is hot, the chicks will pant, spread out their wings, eat less and
remain inactive, move away from the source of heat and stay close to the edges of the
brooder.
- When temperature is low, the chicks will crowd under the leather, pile up and make
known their comfort loud chirping.
c. Good ventilation- good air movement without draft is necessary inside the brooder
house. The chicks need a fresh supply of oxygen, while CO 2, ammonia, and excess
moisture that have accumulated inside the brooder have to be removed.
d. Adequate floor, feeding and drinking spaces
 Floor space requirement – at the beginning of the brooding period, the chicks
need very little space but as the chicks grow older they must be provided much
wider area.
Egg type chickens Meat type/broiler

1day-3 weeks 0.3 sq.ft/bird 1 day-2 weeks 0.3 sq.ft/bird
3-8 weeks 0.5sq.ft/bird 2 weeks/market age 1.0 sq.ft/bird
8-12 weeks 1.0 sq.ft/bird
 After 12 weeks, the floor space requirement of growing pullet varies according to the
systems of housing used.
Litter floor – 2.0-2.5 sq.ft/bird
Slat floor - 1.5-2.0 sq.ft/bird
Cages - 0.75-1.0 sq.ft/bird
 Adequate feeder and watering space should be provided to the birds. The
following allowances are considered minimum per bird:
Feeder Waterer
Day old- 2 weeks 2.5 cm 0.5 cm
2-6 weeks 4.5 cm 1.0 cm
6-10 weeks 7.5 cm 2.0 cm
e. Proper sanitation- brooding pens need to be kept clean and dry at all times to minimize
or prevent contamination and growth of parasites and other disease-causing organisms.
f. Adequate lighting facilities
During the first few days of brooding, lighting the chicks throughout the night (24 hours) is
favorable for growth because there is more eating time. The light in the brooder will
encourage the birds to keep close to the source of heat, feed and water.
If the source of heat is incandescent bulb, then the lighting of the brooder pen is
accomplished at the same time. However, if other sources of heat are used, light from 5 to
10-watt bulb would be needed to enable the broiler chicks to locate the feed and water. If
natural light is sufficient during daytime, artificial light may only be provided at night.
g. Protection from predators- the brooder must be constructed to provide sufficient
protection from rats, dogs, cats, snakes and other animals that could disturb or kill young
chicks.
h. Proper feeds, feeding and watering system.
As soon as the chicks are settled in the brooder compartment, it is best if water is made available
to them immediately. Feed must be provided about 2-3 hours when chicks have learned to drink.
Chicks starter mash ration must be provided. This may be placed on paper mattings or chick
feeder designed for the purpose.
The addition of 5-10% sugar in the drinking water can be done for the first 6-8 hours during the
arrival of the DOC’s. Supplementation of water-soluble vitamin-mineral anitibiotic preparation
can give the chicks a good start, too.
LO3. FEED CHICKEN
Allowed Proportion of Feed Ration (Based on the DM Requirement)
Year Ratio (%w/w)
Year 1 50% non-organic feed, 50% organic feed
Year 4, onwards 100% organic feed
Feeding ration and Management:

 To maintain healthy birds, keep fresh feeds available at all times.
 Limit the amount of feed in feeders to the extent necessary to avoid waste.
 Feed the birds with sufficient food no more no less to ensure profitability.
 Keep the feeds in a closed plastic container away from rats, birds and other animals.
 Always record activities.
 Keep a close watch on bird’s weight and their feed consumption. A drop in food intake is
usually the first indication of trouble.
In the formulation of organic feed, the following ingredients/ raw materials are not allowed:
 synthetic growth promoters or stimulants;
 synthetic appetizers;
 preservatives, except when used as a processing aid;
 artificial coloring agent;
 urea and other synthetic nitrogen compounds;
 slaughter waste and other deceased animal parts;
 droppings, dung, or other manure;
 feed ingredients subjected to solvent extraction (e.g.with petroleum products);
 synthetic and/or chemically isolated amino acids;
 genetically engineered microorganisms or products thereof;
 synthetic antibiotics; and
 synthetic and/or chemically isolated vitamins and minerals.
FEED FROMULATION FOR ORGANIC CHICKEN (GROWERS)

COMPONEN SOURCE PERCE WEIGHT
T NT (%) (KG, GM)
Protein Fish (whole internal organ, gills), shells, soybeans, 18 .9kgs
Mung bean, Madre de agua (dried or not high protein
plants)
Lipids/Fats Coconut meat 7 .35kgs
Carbohydrates Rice bran (30%) .975 3.25kgs
Corn bran (70%) 2.275
Vitamins FFJ, FPJ, OHN, LABS 5 0.15kgs
Minerals Salt, Carbonized rice hull 5 0.15 kgs
(Dried soil)
100 5kgs
FEED FORMULATION FOR CHICKEN (GROWER)
Items Materials Description QTY(kgs) Cost (PhP) % of mixture
1 Rice Bran (D1) Fine 100 960 52.5
2 Hammered corn (corn grits) 50 700 25.34
3 Soya meal 15 126 7.50
4 Fish meal 5 63.8
5 Copra Meal 20 180 10
6 ACES-FS Protein meal (Fish & soya) – 10 310 6.14
optional
Total weight 200 2339.8 100 %
7 Additives 200g 50.00
-ACES Nutri-balancer - optional 1kg 6.00
-Salt
8 Concoctions 10 liters 200
- FPJ (10%)
- FFJ (10%)
- FAA (70%)
- OHN (10%)
- Total Volume
9 Labor 2 Man 500
Days
Total Cost 3,095.80(1 25 kg/bag
5.48/kg)
FCR=2.5 8 bags
337.25/ba
g
RECCOMMENDED FEEDING RATION

DAYS OF KIND OF FEEDS FEED VOLUME PER DAY FEED VOLUME PER
CULTURE PER CHICK WEEK PER CHICK
01-07 Chick booster 5.57 gms, 7am 78 gms
5.57 gms, 4pm
08-14 -do- 8.35 gms, 7am 117 gms
8.35 gms, 4pm
15-21 Chick booster/starter 12.57 gms, 7am 176 gms
12.57 gms, 4pm
22-28 Chick Starter 18.85 gms, 7am 264 gms
18.85 gms, 4pm
29-35 Grower mash 28.28 gms, 7am 396 gms
28.28 gms, 4pm
36-42 -do- 35.35 gms, 7am 495 gms
35.35 gms, 4pm
43-49 Grower/Finisher mash 38.85 gms, 7am 544 gms
38.85 gms, 4pm
50-56 Finisher mash 42.85 gms, 7am 600 gms
42.85 gms, 4pm
DIGESTIBLE CRUDE PROTEIN CALCULATION
Total crude protein of combined ingredients divided by the total of amount or kilograms of
whole mixture multiplied by 100.
Combined Ingredients
total amount or Kg of whole mixture x 100 = _______
Organic Feed Preparation

Organic feed is prepared from locally available fodder materials, and composed of the following
formulation:
Ingredient Amount
Rice bran 20 kgs
Ground corn 10 kgs
Banana trunk 10 kgs
Camote (Sweet potato) leaves 20 kgs
Rice wash 10 liters
Muscovado (Brown cane sugar) 2 kgs
Fermented Fruit Juice 2 cups
Fermented fish amino acids 2 cups
ORGANIC POULTRY FEED MIX (By: Jonathan Makin)
CRUDE PROTEIN 19.76%
Materials: Amount (kg)
-trichanthera (madre de agua) 2 kg
-crack corn 2 kg
-rice bran D1 2 kg
-soybean meal or duck weed 2 kg
-salt 10 g
-calcium (egg shell pan fried to golden
Brown and pulverized) 10 g
TOTAL: 8.02 KG
PROCEDURE:
Mix all the materials in a container and feed directly to chicken and duck. For chicken serve it
dry and for duck mix FFJ or FPJ before serving.
CRUDE PROTEIN CALCULATION

• Trichantera (Madre de Agua) 2kg x 18% ÷ 100 = 36%
• Crack Corn 2kg x 7% ÷ 100 = 0.14%
• Rice bran DI 2kg x 11%÷ 100 = 0.22%
• Soybean meal or duck weed 2kg x 45%÷ 100 =0.9%
• Salt 10 g x 0% ÷ 100 = 0%
• Calcium 10g x 0% ÷ 100%= 0%
total: 1.62 %
CP % = total crude protein of all the combined ingredients divided by total amount of the feed
mix multiplied by one hundred
Example: 1.62÷ 8.02kg x 100= 20.2%
Correct Feeding.
- Provide the chicks with good quality feeds.
- Feed the chicks intermittently rather than continuously. Research studies have shown that
when using intermittent feeding chicks utilize nutrients better.
- Do not allow feed troughs to go empty longer than one to two hours.
10 | P a g e O r g a n i c A g r i c u l t u r e P r o d u c ti o n N C I I
LO4. GROW AND HARVEST CHICKEN
PNS
ANIMAL WELFARE ACT
• Republic Act No. 8485: known as the Animal Welfare Act of 1998
• Republic Act No. 10068: An Act Providing for the Development and Promotion of
Organic Agriculture in the Philippines and for Other Purposes, known as the "Organic
Agriculture Act of 2010"
• PNS/BAFS 60 - Code of Good Animal Husbandry Practices (GAHP)
• PNS/BAFS 163 - Animal Feed Ingredients
• PNS/BAFS 168 - Code of Hygienic Practice (COHP) for Meat
• PNS/BAFS 07:2016 – Organic Agriculture
Health Management
• The most economical and ideal method to control disease is through prevention, which
could be achieved by proper management, good sanitation and having an effective
vaccination program.
• Vaccination is allowed under the direct supervision of a duly licensed veterinarian only
when an endemic is known or expected to be a problem in the region where the farm is
located and where the disease cannot be controlled by other management techniques; or if
a vaccination is legally required.
Marketing of Broilers:
For Contract Growers
 Birds that have attained the marketable weight should be sold. Birds should be harvested
as scheduled. When harvest schedule approaches, the company’s representative should be
reminded of the exact date that birds are to be harvested and the assurance that his
company trucks should come on time. This is to ensure that the birds will not consume
extra feeds due to longer stay in the farm without any beneficial effect to the grower.
 The birds should be harvested within the shortest possible time. There are companies that
sell to viajeros. The middlemen tend to select the bigger and healthier birds of relatively
uniform sizes. This practice should not be allowed since this will disturb the other birds
resulting to weight losses and also delays the harvesting.
For Independent Growers

 Alternative market outlets should be surveyed even before deciding to broilers to be
assured of a ready market at the time of harvest. Marketing arrangements with local
hotels, restaurants, cafeterias, institutional buyers and grocery stores with freezers should
be made.
 Producers should form associations or market cooperatives so that they could agree on a
common prize. Organized producers have some bargaining power with regard to their
selling prices.
 Producers will be best advised to compute which is more profitable to sell, the birds
dressed or live, and whether to sell at the farm or bring them to the market.
 The broilers should be sold at optimum weight (1.5-2.5kg). more profits can be derived if
broilers are sold between.
Marketing of Eggs:
 Survey market outlets to ensure regular orders for the eggs. Marketing arrangements must
be made with local bakeries, local hotels, restaurants, cafeterias, groceries, or sari-sari
stores, higher income families and other regular users.
 Sell graded or classified eggs. Proper grading or classification can attract all kinds of
consumers. This will also enable the consumers to make purchasing decisions on the egg
size.
 Sell only clean eggs since everybody wants clean eggs. Dry or wet cleaning of eggs
should be a standard practice on the farm.
 Reduce breakage and spoilage of eggs to the minimum. Broken eggs constitute losses and
render the container unsightly.
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE ORGANIC VEGETABLES
MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING ORGANIC VEGETABLES
required to establish nursery, plant seedlings, perform plant
care activities and perform harvest and post-harvest
activities.
SUMMARY OF LEARNING ACTIVITIES

LO1. Establish nursery
LO2. Plant seedlings
LO3. Perform plant care activities and management
LO4. Perform harvest and post-harvest activities
LO1. ESTABLISH NURSERY
Seed Types
ORGANIC HEIRLOOM SEEDS (OPEN POLLINATED SEEDS) – produce

crops that yield seeds that will reproduce the same plant year after year; support
biodiversity; never came in contact with chemicals; produce better tasting crops
with higher nutritional value
HYBRID SEEDS (‘man-made seeds’) – good for only one planting; yield seeds
X that are unpredictable (can bear
much, little or none)
Seed Selection
 Know your source
 Know which of your crops are susceptible to diseases transmitted
through seeds/stock
 Do not collect seeds from plants with diseases
Seed harvesting
 Use the best looking, strongest and most productive plants to
harvest for seeds
 Look for: early bearing fruit; size; flavor; disease resistance
 Save seeds from at least 3 different plants of the same variety (to
provide good pollination)
 Allow seeds to fully ripen to achieve best germination yield; give
time to store enough nourishment
Drying seeds
 Dry seeds before storing (5-13% moisture content)
 Separate seeds from one another
 Larger seeds require more time to air dry
 Do not dry seeds too quickly (shrink, crack)
 Indoor air drying or in the sun (usually 2-3 days)
Storing seeds
 Small paper envelope, paper bag or cloth bag in a dry, dark,
cool area
 Do not allow seeds to come into direct contact with the air;
but do allow minimal amount of air (do not vacuum seal)
 Label packets (include variety)
Life expectancy of vegetable seeds

1 Year – Onion, parsley, parsnip, salsify
2 Years – Sweet corn, leeks, okra, pepper;
3 Years – Asparagus, beans, broccoli, carrots, celeria, celery, Chinese cabbage, Kohlabi, spinach,
peas;
4 Years – Beets, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard, chicory, eggplant, fennel,
kale, mustard, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash, tomato, turnip, watermelon;
5 Years – Collards, cucumber, endive, muskmelon, radish
6 Years – Lettuce
Nursery Management
Nursery management is crucial in the
success of organic vegetable production
Nursery plants require due care after having
emerged from the seeds
Nursery plants should be provided with
suitable conditions before facing the local
environment
Activities in the Nursery

1.) Potting mix preparation - potting mixture – loamy soil, sand, compost (1:1:1)
2.) Seedling pots/tray preparation – Plastic trays or paper/cardboard made by hand
3.) Sowing
4.) Thinning
5.) Pricking
6.) Weeding
Pest and Disease Management in the Nursery

1.) Raised platform
a. Protection from soil-borne pests and diseases
b. Easier and more comfortable posture during weeding, sowing, pricking
2.) Monitor regularly the occurrence of pests and diseases
*Application of mukosako (wood juice) \
Irrigation/Watering in the Nursery

1. Do not soak the ground/ soil – avoid heavy irrigation
2. Do not allow ground/ soil to dry
3. Hand watering (pots) or low pressure hose (beds)
4. Sizes of trays/cups should be enough to sustain seedlings’ nutritional need until
transplanting
5. Observe good sanitation; avoid contaminants
6. Provide ample sunlight but protect from direct, strong sun, rain and wind (use of netting
or greenhouse structure)
LO2. PLANT SEEDLINGS
TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS (from nursery to grow out area)
TRANSPLANTING
- indirect seeding
- process of growing seedlings in a greenhouse or other controlled environment before
placing plants outdoors; plants are grown in a protected environment until they are the
right size or weather is optimal and ready to be planted in the field
PREPARE THE PLANTING BED
- Transplant on a cloudy or drizzly day
- Transplant in early evening to spare transplants from the heat of the sun
- Water the plants before you start
- Dig a hole in the planting bed slightly wider than and of the same depth as the container
(except for tomato plants which have to be buried deeper than when grown in the
container)
HANDLING TRANSPLANTS
- Get the seedlings out of their growing containers; work from bottom and sides to loosen
and separate plant from the container
- Handle seedlings by the leaves or by the root ball; grasping by the plant stem will crush
the plant
- Prick them out with as much soil and root system as possible
WATERING TRANSPLANTS
- Place back half of the soil into the hole, stop and water the plant before finally filling the
hole and lightly tamping (supply moisture to the root zone rather than the surface)
- Wilting is a sign of transplant shock (using liquid seaweed in watering the plants provides
nutrients and reduces transplanting stress
HARDENING OFF PLANTS FOR LIFE IN THE GARDEN/ FIELD
- 1 to 2 weeks before planting out in the field: stop feeding fertilizers and gradually slow
down on watering
- Expose outdoors in a protected area, away from direct sunlight (4 days:1 hour; 2 hours;
full morning; then 1 day)
Advantages of using transplants
 Seeds are not wasted – higher germination rate; low survival rate in the field)
 More uniform growth – start off in the field at the same growing stage; ripen at same
time
 Longer harvesting season – transplants yield earlier harvests
 Plants get a head start
Disadvantages of using transplants

 Additional expenses– greenhouses/ rain shelters
 Additional expertise and time– needed to coordinate sowing dates and planting dates in
the field
 More work – transporting bulky flats or cell packs between the greenhouse and field
Factors affecting transplant success

1. Root regeneration – plants are able to form new roots and absorb water quickly (e.g.
tomato, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage)
2. Transplant age – 4 to 6 weeks growth in the greenhouse; depends on vegetable type and
variety
3. Container size – knowing when roots become restricted can help the farmer know how
long to keep the transplants in a specific size of container
LO3. PERFORM PLANT CARE AND MANAGEMENT

AIM OF PLANT MANAGEMENT
Although in organic farming, the main focus is the improvement and the environment of the soil,
an amount of attention is much needed in managing the plants.
Aim: improve and maintain the quality, size and nutritional value of the plants and
eventually the crop products at its highest possible level and in return derive more profit
and income
Main factors that determine productivity of crops and plants:

a) Variety – size, maturity, pest and disease resistance
b) Growing conditions
i. natural and biological – (e.g. live organic matter; type of soil)
ii. Cultural practices/techniques – (e.g. crop rotation)
Plant Management – sees to it that conditions are favorable to plant growth and development
Nutritional requirements in different growth stages
N - vegetative stage
P - flowering and fruit bearing stages
K–
*compost and fermentations
*micro elements (e.g. zinc, iron, boron, calcium)
Plant Nutrients
Only 17 of elements in the soil are thought to be essential for plant growth
Plants require both macronutrients and micronutrients at some point for healthy growth
Some nutrients are more essential in some plants but not in others
C – carbon used by plants in large amounts; can be safely ignored by
H – hydrogen growers as they are available from air and water and never
O – oxygen present any problem of deficiency
MACRONUTRIENTS:
 primary nutrients
 absorbed from the soil in large amounts
 common causes of nutrient deficiency
N – nitrogen
P – phosphorus
K – potassium
NITROGEN
Stored in the soil in organic matter
Component of chlorophyll; essential for leaf and overall plant growth; respiration and
regulation of potassium and phosphorus use
Best source of N is organic matter in the form of compost
Also by using green manures (nitrogen-fixing plants) incorporated into the soil
EXCESS: abundant succulent dark leaves; tall weak stems; flowering and fruit delay due to leaf
production
Heavily manured or chemically fertilized soil can make plants mildly toxic especially to babies
DEFICIENCY: severe chlorosis (yellow leaves; die back from the tip); younger leaves not as
green; older leaves and stems are reddish, orange or purplish; less functioning leaf area leading
to slow, stunted growth
PHOSPHORUS
Stored in the soil in organic matter
Essential for photosynthesis; produce strong roots; increase resistance to disease; needed
for respiration
Common source: rock phosphate or colloidal phosphate
Keep soil pH close to neutral for maximum phosphorus availability; too much zinc can
prevent the root absorption of phosphorus
EXCESS: not found in the soil in high concentration; an excess is not a concern
DEFICIENCY: not very readily noticeable; slow, stunted growth; undersides of older leaves are
purplish/bluish; poor fruit set
Problems more obvious with seedlings, as plants need phosphorus especially when
young/seedlings
POTASSIUM
Occurs naturally in most soils; becomes available thru chemical weathering and
biological activity
Essential for photosynthesis, protein synthesis, enzyme activity; opening and closing of
stomata; promotes good root growth; especially recommended for root crops
Helps form strong stems; improve storage life; aid in assimilating N and P; increases
resistance to drought and cold
Seedlings need a lot of potassium
EXCESS: similar to nitrogen; prone to disease and insect attack; can make other nutrients
(phosphorus and magnesium) less available
DEFICIENCY: appear mostly in older leaves; lesions, yellowing or scorching of leaf tips; slow
growth; reduced vigor; poor root growth (even rotting); weak stems (falling over)
MACRONUTRIENTS
- secondary
- absorbed from the soil in considerable quantities
- plants use more magnesium and calcium than phosphorus
Ca – calcium
Mg – magnesium
S – sulfur
CALCIUM
- Needed for nitrogen absorption, protein synthesis, enzyme activity, healthy cell walls
- Improve storage life of crops
- Added to soil to raise pH
- Deficiency: slow growth, leaf tip burn, stunted and short
- Source: milk or eggshell tea; gypsum
MAGNESIUM
- Central component of chlorophyll
- Used for phosphorus metabolism and enzyme activity
- Deficiency: reduced yields; yellow older leaves, curling
SULFUR
-
Needed for the manufacture of chlorophyll, vitamins, enzymes, hormones, amino acids;
protein synthesis and root growth
- Rarely deficient as it is found in most soils
- Easily leached by rainfall
- Compost (organic matter) contains 80-90% sulfur
- Deficiency causes stunted growth, delay maturation of fruit and seeds
MACRONUTRIENTS
NUTRIENT pH LEVEL
N 5.5 up
P 5.5 to 6.5
K 6.0 up
Ca 6.0 to 8.5
Mg 6.0 to 8.5
S Above 5.5
Liming is Important
- To raise pH
- Reduce existing/potential toxicities
- Increases P availability
- Ph range 5.5-7.0
- Liming can be expensive because soils are buffered (clay content and OM)
- To supply Ca
- Highly weathered soils are almost deficient in Ca
Nutrient content of selected organic fertilizers
Material N P2 O5 K Other nutrients Relative availability of
nutrients
Rock phosphate 0% 25% 0% 25% Ca Slow
Greensand 0% 0% 9% Slow
Alfalfa pellets 3% 0.5% 3% Slow
Bone meal (raw) 2% 15% 0% 20% Slow
Fish emulsion 4% 2% 2% 1% Ca Fast
Blood meal 13% 0% 0% Slow
Wood ashes 0% 2% 5% 20 % Ca Fast
Soybean meal 7% 2% 2% Medium
Cottonseed meal 7% 2% 2% Slow
Compost 1.5 % 1% 1.5% 2% Ca Slow
Epsom salts 0% 0% 0% 10% Mg Fast
Gypsum 0% 0% 0% 22% Ca; 16% S Medium
Corn gluten 9.5 % 0.5% 0.5% Medium
Adopted from : Ferro, D. N., 1998 to 1999 New England Management Guide, University of
Connecticut, University of New Hampshire , Unniversity of Maine, University of Rhode
Island, University of Massachusetts and University of Vermont
SEED TIME TO HARVEST
Starts from seeds seedlings growing area harvest
Seeds – of highest quality from matured and fully developed parent plants
Seedlings -robust and healthy
-potting mix not contaminated;must be rich or fertile
-hardened before transplanting
Grow out area
-thoroughly cleaned and prepared
-adequate supply of compost
-adequate protection
-right amount of water
Harvest
- prevent damage and bruises (start of decay or rot; will not be wanted by customers)
PLANT MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES
 Crop Rotation
 Tunneling
 Multi-cropping
 Greenhouse/Rain Shelter
 Terracing
PEST AND DISEASE MANAGEMENT IN ORGANIC FARMING
RECOGNIZING SOME COMMON PESTS

1. APHIDS or BLACK or GREEN FLIES (Aphidoidea)
- A minute soft-bodied bug that feeds by sucking sap from plants.
- It reproduces rapidly, often producing live young without mating
- May live in large colonies that cause extensive damage to crops.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Physical removal
- Water pressure
- Soap and water
- Neem oil
- Essential oils
- Beneficial insects
- Bug-eating birds
- Watch out for ants
- Natural repellents
- Natural attractants
2. BORERS
- a worm, mollusk, insect or insect larva that digs holes in
the woody parts of plants.
- found worldwide across several unrelated groups of
insects and reflects their boring larval stage that affects buds, shoots, bark, trunks of trees,
shrubs and other plants
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Spray possible egg-laying sites with horticultural or dormant oil sprays
- Beneficial nematodes
- Introduce Trichogramma wasp egg parasites
- Sticky traps and pheromone traps
3. CATERPILLARS
- the elongated worm-like larvae of moths and butterflies
- insects life stage between an egg and a pupa
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Handpick
- Use a butterfly net to catch adult moths
- Use of sticky yellow traps
- Large pieces of eggshell can be scattered amongst cabbages to confuse the Cabbage
white butterfly. The theory goes that it will mistake the eggshells for other butterflies and
leave the area looking for less populated plants to lay its eggs on.
- Companion planting
4. CUTWORM
- a smooth-bodied chiefly nocturnal noctuid moth
caterpillars
- eggs are laid singly or a few together on leaves or
stems of weeds, crop residues, or bordering fields
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Make plant collars.
- Hand pick.
- Sprinkle used coffee grounds or egg shells around your plants.
- Circle stems with diatomaceous earth
- Use Bacillus thuringiensis
5. NEMATODES
- small, slender worms: typically about 5 to
100 µm thick, and 0.1 to 2.5 mm long. The
smallest nematodes are microscopic, while free-
living species can reach as much as 5 cm (2 in).
They are classified as unsegmented worms.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Avoid moving plants and soil from infested
parts of the garden. Don't allow irrigation water
from around infested plants to run off, as this also spreads nematodes.
- Use resistant plants and rotation crops
- Tillage and the practice of fallowing fields may
appear as alternatives to cover crops for nematode
management
- Solarization- covering of the soil with clear plastic
6. LEAF MINERS
- the larva of an insect that lives in and eats the leaf
tissue of plants. The vast majority of leaf-mining
insects are moths, sawflies and flies, though some
beetles also exhibit this behavior
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Monitor plant leaves closely. At the first sign of tunneling, squeeze the leaf at the tunnel
between two fingers to crush any larvae.
- Maintain plant health with organic fertilizers and proper watering to allow plants to
outgrow and tolerate pest damage. Keep your soil alive by using compost and other soil
amendments.
- Cover plants with floating row covers
- Parasitic wasps such as Diglyphus begini and Chrysocharis parksi
- Planting trap crops (lamb’s-quarter, columbine and velvetleaf)
- Spray infected plants with Spinosad
- Spray Neem oil
- Use sticky yellow traps
- Use plastic mulch
- Use floating row covers
- Parasitic wasp (Diglyphus isaea)
- Use yellow or blue sticky traps
- Cover soil under infested plants with plastic
mulches
7. MEALY BUGS
- tiny insects, about 1/8 inch in length, but their
color and clustering habit make mealy bugs easy
to find on garden plants.
- white, and have waxy looking filaments covering
their bodies, giving them a fuzzy or hairy
appearance
- look like little fluffy cotton balls with legs
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Wipe with a damp cloth
- Spray water with force
- Insect soap sprays
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Use predators like the ladybugs, lace wing, spider
- Apply a little oil
- Cryptolaemus montrouzieri (Mealybug Ladybird or Mealybug Destroyer)
8. ROOT MAGGOT FLIES

- Adults (1/5 inch long) are dark gray flies that
look like the common housefly, only smaller.
Maggots (1/3 – 1/4 inch long) are small,
yellowish white, legless larvae with tapered or
pointed heads and a rear end that is blunt.
- The maggots are generally fat, whitish grubs
growing to 1/3" long and tapering to a pointy
head.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Garden fabric (row cover or floating row
cover)
- Yellow sticky traps
- Rototiller
- Heavy paper collars or other sturdy material may be placed around
the base of transplants to prevent egg laying around stems.
- Mounding wood ashes, hot pepper, or diatomaceous earth
9. SQUASH BUGS
- adults (5/8 inch long) are dark brown or gray in color which keeps
them well camouflaged around plants
- has a flat back
- have a hard shell with a long shield-like shape, two pairs of wings,
and sucking mouthparts that originate from the tips of their head
- the edges and undersides of the abdomen have orange stripes.
- they are able to fly, but they often simply walk around on plants.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Avoid deep, cool mulches like straw or hay
- Practice crop rotation.
- Consider keeping vines covered until blossoming begins.
- Companion planting can be useful in repelling squash bugs.
- Try planting nasturtium and tansy around the plants that are commonly affected
10. WHITE FLIES
- tiny insects that coat their bodies with a white
substance
- adults (1/16 inch long) are moth-like insects with
powdery white wings and short antenna. They are
easily recognized and often found near the tops of
plants or on stem ends.
- wingless nymphs are flattened, oval and almost
scale-like in appearance
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Plant marigolds, calendula and nasturtiums
- Vacuum the flies.
- Use insecticidal soap
- Yellow sticky traps
- Natural predators: ladybugs and lacewing larvae
- Organic neem oil
- Horticultural oils
11. FLEA BEETLE

- Adults are small (1/10 inch long), shiny, dark brown or bl ack beetles with large hind
legs that allow them to jump when disturbed. Some species
may have white or yellow stripes on their wing cases.
- Larvae are small, cream-colored worms (1/8 – 1/3 inch
long).
- They live underground and feed on the roots and tubers of
young plants as well as on germinating seeds.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Remove garden trash and plow or rototill under weeds to
reduce overwintering sites.
- Place yellow sticky traps throughout garden rows every 15 to
30 feet to capture adults.
- 70% Neem Oil
- Diatomaceous Earth
12. DIAMOND BACK MOTH (DBM)

- a moth, having brownish wings marked with
diamond -shaped, yellow spots in the male, the
larvae of which feed on the leaves of cabbages
and other cruciferous plants
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Large larvae, prepupae, and pupae are often
killed by the parasitoids Microplitis plutellae, Diadegma insulare, and Diadromus
subtilicornis.
- Heavy rainfalls and irrigation can drown many small larvae (first or second instar).
Humid conditions associated with rainfall or irrigation can favor the development of
lethal fungal diseases, such as Entomophthorales.
- Cool, windy weather reduces adult activity and females often die before they lay all of
their eggs.
RECOGNIZING SOME COMMON DISEASES

1. BLIGHT
A. COMMON BACTERIAL BLIGHT
CAUSAL AGENT: Xanthomonas axonopodis pv.
phaseoli (also known as Xanthomonas campestris pv.
phaseoli) and it’s variant;Xanthomonas axonopodis
pv. Phaseoli var.fuscans
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Plant certified seed of recommended varieties
less susceptible to common bacterial blight.
- Avoid overhead irrigation and reuse of irrigation water where possible.
- Avoid working in fields when plants are wet.
- Promptly and thoroughly incorporate infested bean debris into the soil after harvest, and
rotate beans with non-host crops such as
small grains for at least two years.
- Practice strict sanitation of weeds
B. EARLY BLIGHT
CAUSAL AGENT: Alternaria solani
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Prune or stake plants
- Disinfect your pruning shears
- Keep the soil under plants clean and free of
garden debris.
- Drip irrigation and soaker hoses can be used to help keep the foliage dry.
- Remove and destroy all garden debris after harvest and practice crop rotation the
following year.
- Burn or bag infected plant parts. Do NOT compost.
C. FIRE BLIGHT
CAUSAL AGENT: Erwinia amylovora
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Select resistant varieties whenever possible.
- Avoid heavy pruning or excess applications of
nitrogen fertilizer, both of which encourage
new growth.
- Prune off infected branches 1 foot below the
diseased sections and burn them to prevent
further infection.
- Streptomyces lydicus
2. RUST
CAUSAL AGENT:Puccinia sorghi
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Select rust-resistant plant varieties when available.
- Pick off and destroy infected leaves and frequently
rake under plants to remove all fallen debris.
- Water in the early morning hours
- Use a slow-release, organic fertilizer
- Apply copper sprays or sulfur powders
- Prune or stake plants and remove weeds
- Use a thick layer of mulch or organic compost
- Burn or bag infected plants after the growing season Do NOT compost.
3. POWDERY MILDEW
CAUSAL AGENT: Podosphaera xanthii
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Choose plants that are resistant or tolerant to
powdery mildew.
- Avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity.
- Prune overcrowded areas to increase air circulation;
this also helps reduce humidity for your plants.
- Spray plants with a solution of 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1 quart of water. Remember to
spray your plants thoroughly.
4. LEAF SPOT
CAUSAL AGENT: Xanthomonas axonopodis (syn. campestris)
pv. vesicatoria, Xanthomonas vesicatoria, and Xanthomonas
gardneri
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Live with the disease.
- Remove infected leaves and dead twigs.
- Keep foliage dry. Avoid overhead watering.
- Keep plants healthy.
- Replace the plant.
- Select resistant varieties.
- Treat seeds by soaking them for 2 minutes in a 10%
chlorine bleach solution
- Mulch plants deeply with a thick organic material
5. HEAD ROT
CAUSAL AGENT: Sclerotinia sclerotiom
NATURAL CONTROL:
- avoid planting cabbage in fields that are surrounded
by dense woods
- rows should be planted in the direction of the prevailing winds
- plow crop debris deep into soil
6. SOFT ROT
CAUSAL AGENT: Erwinia carotovora
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Rotate crops
- Plant cabbage in well-draining soils
- Only harvest heads when they are dry
- Use soft rot-resistant vegetables
- Avoid damaging vegetables
- Harvest only during dry conditions.
- Remove any infested plant debris
7. ROOT KNOT NEMATODE

CAUSAL AGENT: Meloidogyne spp.
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Plant resistant varieties
- Check roots of plants mid-season or sooner if
symptoms indicate nematodes
- Soil solarization
- Crop rotation and allowing a field to lay fallow
- Good sanitation practices
8. CLUB ROOT
CAUSAL AGENT:Plasmodiophora brassicae
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
- Keep clean garden
- Rotate crops.
- Allow field to lay fallow
- Solarize the soil
- Control susceptible weeds
- Remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools
- Raise soil’s pH
9. ANTHRACNOSE
CAUSAL AGENT: Colletotrichum
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Choose resistant plant varieties
- Do NOT save your own seed
- Keep out of gardens
- Do not compost infected leaves, fruit
or stems
- Liquid copper sprays and sulfur
powders
- Neem oil spray
10. WILT
CAUSAL AGENT: Erwinia tracheiphila
NATURAL CONTROL:
- Rogue
- Trap crops
- Bait formulations
THE NATURAL WAY OF CROP PROTECTION
Pest and Disease Control
Some points
 Pests and diseases are part of the natural environment
 Pests and diseases indicate an imbalance or problem in the garden/farm/plants
 Aim of natural control: restore balance between pest and predator---to keep pests and
diseases at an acceptable level; not eradicate them altogether
Pest control options
1. CULTURAL – good horticultural practices (proper site selection, resistant varieties,
sanitation, cultivation, etc.)
2. PHYSICAL – hand picking, barriers
3. BIOLOGICAL – use of predators
4. CHEMICAL – soap, plant sprays
CULTURAL
Timely sowing / time of planting
 Planting must be done when insect population is low in order to minimize possible severe
insect attack
 It is often the young of many pests (larvae, caterpillar), rather than the adults, that cause
damage to crops; delay sowing until the egg laying period of a pest is over, or by
protecting the plants during this period
 Know the life cycle of pests
A healthy soil
 A well managed soil will give plants a balanced food supply
 Plants which are well fed, like people, will be much more resistant to pests and diseases
 Should be managed in ways that develop and protect its structure, its fertility and the
millions of creatures for which it is a home
 Caring for the soil involves providing regular inputs of organic residues. The aim is to:
 Maintain levels of humus (organic material) that give structure to the soil
 Feed organisms which live in the soil
 Provide nutrients for crops
 ‘Clean culture’ – practice of removing plant refuse (especially if infected) from the field
to deprive insects of food
Crop Selection
 Resistant varieties and genetic diversity; some crops rarely affected or better able to resist
particular pests and diseases
 There is more variety in traditional crops grown by farmers over many centuries
 Modern breeding methods tend to be very similar and yield plants that are susceptible to
diseases
 Use of short maturing variety – lesser exposed to insect attacks than long maturing
varieties
 Crop Rotation - The practice of growing a series of dissimilar types of crops in the same
area in sequential seasons---to avoid depleting the soil and to control weeds, diseases and
pests
 Growing the same crops in the same site can encourage a build-up of pests and diseases
in the soil which will transfer from one crop to the next
 For vegetables, a 3 to 4 year rotation is usually recommended as a minimum
 Best achieved by a combination of botanically unrelated crops following one another or
by the choice of crops having fewest common pests
Good hygiene/ Sanitation

 If infected plant material, live or dead, are left lying around, pests and diseases can be
passed on to future crops. Debris should be cleared up and disposed of through proper
composting
 The composting process will kill some pests and diseases and produce compost which is
a good soil improver and fertilizer
 However, some diseases may survive even after composting. If in doubt, the infected
material should be burned
Land preparation and Soil tillage

 Many pests (especially soil insects like cutworm, mole crickets, grubs) spend part or
whole of their lives in the soil. Plowing or digging when the soil is dry can reveal the pest
(larvae, pupa) and they will dry out and die in the sun; or they can be picked off the
ground by hand, eaten by birds or other predators.
 Plowing can also push the pest deep down into the ground where they will not be able to
survive. Plowing and disturbing the soil should be carefully considered against the
harmful effects it may have such as destroying the structure of the soil and causing soil
erosion.
Soil pH
 The pH (acidity or alkalinity) of the soil can affect some diseases. Changing the pH can
reduce the problem
Examples:
Potato scab is less severe in more acid soils (pH below 7) A layer of grass mowings added to the
bottom of the potato trenches at planting time will make the soil more acid and reduce effects of
the disease.
Clubroot is less severe in alkaline conditions (pH above 7), therefore adding lime to the soil to
make it more alkaline can reduce the problem.
Weeding – weeds that serve as alternate host of insect pests must be removed to prevent pests
from increasing in number
Irrigation and water management – use of rain burst especially during noontime affects insect
movement (getting insects wet); time/ timing of watering
Fertilizer application – avoid use of too much nitrogen (nitrogen makes plant tissues more
succulent, thus, more susceptible to pest damage)
Companion planting - growing certain plants to protect other plants from pests or diseases. This
may be because the pest is deterred by the companion plant, or because it is attracted to the
companion plant rather than the crop.
Examples:
- Onions planted either side of a row of carrots help deter carrot flies. Sow 4 rows of
onions for 1 row of carrots. This effect will only last as long as the onions are growing
leaves.
- Many pests avoid garlic, so this can be used effectively as a companion plant with most
crops.
- Placing mint leaves near spinach will deter insect pests.
- Planting milkweed among vegetables effectively reduces the number of aphids devouring
the crop. Aphids are more attracted to the milkweed than to the vegetables.
- Plants to attract predators and parasites
- Similar to companion planting, seeks to deter pests from the main crop
- Attractant plants can be grown to attract predatory insects
Areas of natural habitat
- Bushes and trees are a home for many useful insects and birds; provide resting areas,
shelter and food
- Areas of natural habitat can be left around the edges of fields where crops are grown. If
these areas are destroyed, there is likely to be an imbalance b/n predator and pest
Specific plants to attract beneficial insects
- Plants that can be grown to attract natural predators and parasites
- Flowers such as marigold (Tagetes), mint (Mentha), sunflower (Helianthus annus),
sunhemp (Crotalaria juncea) as well as local legumes are useful attractant plants.
Hoverflies, whose larvae feed on greenfly are attracted to the flowers of herbs and
vegetables such as fennel, celery, dill, carrots and parsnips (Umbelliferae family). The
nectar and pollen that these flowers provide will help to increase the number of eggs that
these insects lay.
- Umbellifers will also provide food to various parasitic wasps whose young live on aphids
and some caterpillars
Planting insect repellants

Basil – repels DBM, cutworm, cabbageworm, and butterflies (moth), potato beetles; plant 1
meter apart either at the borders or within plots or both
Rosemary – repels cabbage-moth; also, repels potato beetles
Sage – insect repellant
Mint – insect repellant
Chives – insect repellant
Marigold – insect repellant
MECHANICAL & PHYSICAL

1. Barriers - physical structures put in place to prevent a pest from reaching a plant. They keep
pests away from a plant but do not kill them.
- Use of screens to protect plants from pests
- Use of light to attract insects. As insects are attracted, a basin of water should be placed right
under the light, so that insects bumping into the light bulb fall into the water and are drowned
- Use of traps. These may involve self-locking enclosures, sticky baits or poison baits
- Use of electricity to electrocute insects or other larger pests
- Use of heat: steam or hot water. This may be used in soil disinfection or sterilization of seed
containers and production tools
2. Hand picking and squashing
- Works well for slow moving insects/ pests (slugs, snails, caterpillars)
- Look for eggs, larvae and mature insects
- Examine the underside of leaves also
- Parts of plants that are diseased can be cut or broken off the plants to prevent the spread
of the disease.
3.Fencing
- Works for bigger animals (dogs, cats)
- However, it costs more to set up
4.Netting or row covers
- Effective barriers against birds and other pests
- Also cut down the wind and adds to warm temperature in cool weather
BIOLOGICAL
Predators
- Using one organism to control a pest. This often involves introducing a creature or
organism, which is known to be predatory, to an area with the aim that it will control the
population of the pest; organisms that kill or devour smaller organisms for survival
Examples:
Frogs, toads, hedgehogs, mice, moles, bats, birds, chamelions, lizards, spiders, ants, assasin bugs,
black-kneed capsids, bees, branchid wasps, parasitic wasps, dung beetles, ground beetles,
earthworms, hawk moths, dragon flies, hoverflies, lacewings and stick insects; cocinellid or lady
bug beetles preying on aphids
Parasitoids -derived from the term parasite. The term parasitoids has been suggested to avoid
confusion. It refers to the entomological (focuses on bugs) insect parasite
Pathogens - microorganisms that cause pathologies (diseases) to their host. Pathogens are termed
as entomogenous microorganisms (toxic to the host); e.g. Fungi like Beauvera bassiana;
bacteria like B. thurengiensis
NATURAL CHEMICAL CONTROL

Plant spray:
a. Garlic
1. Grind/pound 4 large bulbs of garlic or a large of onion. Add 4 tablespoons of ground
paminta in 16 liters of water, soak for 1 hour. Strain the liquid into a sprayer or watering
can
2. Effective on all kinds of chewing and sucking insects
3. Good to control mildew of solanaceous plants and other fungal diseases
4. Single solution in garlic spray (pound to extract juice, mix garlic with water. For the
preparation 1 part garlic juice + 100 parts of water ratio – 1:100)
b. Hot pepper - detergent
 Blend/pound 1 handful hot pepper and soak in 1 cup of hot water for half an hour; add 4
teaspoons of liquid dishwashing detergent and mix to 16 liters of water
c. Lagundi leaves
 Collect, wash and clean lagundi leaves (5 kilos)
 Blend lagundi leaves to extract the juice
 Mix the extracted juice with 16 liters of water
 Filter the solution
Target pest: Cercospora
Diseases controlled: leaf mold, leaf spot, frog-eye, and early blight
d. Tomato leaves crushed
 Collect 8 cups of tomato leaves; blend and add to 16 liters of water and 150 grams of
cornstarch, strain
 Good for leaf spot disease
e. Marigold plant
 Collect plant and cut into small pieces; pound to produce juice or liquid; filter the
juice and add an equal amount of water
 Bottled solution ready as botanical pesticide
2 teaspoons – 1 liter of water
f. Molasses spray
 Mix 16 tablespoons of molasses with 16 liters of water and add 8 tablespoons of
detergent; the detergent will help the molasses to stick to the leaves
 Controls cabbage moths and grubs on brassicas
MOKU-SAKO FERMENTATION
Shredded wild sunflowers and other nitrogen-rich plants
Banana plants juice
1,200kgs/ month
To control pests and diseases; make seedlings robust
PLANT DISEASES CONTROL/ MANAGEMENT

Types of Diseases
1.BACTERIA – enter a plant through wounds or natural openings; need moisture to survive;
prefer warm moist conditions
Fire blight, leaf spot, crown gall, bacterial wilt, soft rot
2.FUNGI – commonly called molds; highly infectious; need moisture and warmth, others prefer
cool conditions; most common in wet and humid conditions; enter plants thru wounds or natural
openings
Powdery mildew, rust, blight, fusarium wilt, damping off, wilt, clubroot
3. VIRUS – transmitted thru living insects, thru seeds or infected plants and things; very hard to
eliminate
 Mosaic, curly top
Disease Control Measures
 Prevention is always better than cure
 Ensure stability of plant species that will not compete with each other for light, nutrients,
water
 Reduce root competition
 Provide physical shelter
 Provide nutrients
 Assist pest and disease control – insectary plant, sacrificial plant, predator or pollinator
attractant plant, all season host, trap crop
1. Air circulation
 ensure there is always some air movement (prune and stake if necessary)
 Humid conditions allow for fungal diseases
2. Burning
 safest way to rid of diseased plant material
 However, lose all organic matter and nutrients
 Potassium and phosphorus remain in the ashes and should be returned to the soil
3. Plant nutrition– good plant nutrition prevents deficiency diseases
4. Resistant varieties – locally adapted varieties may be more resistant
5. Sanitation – keep farm free of possible sources of infection
6. .Healthy soil
7. Healthy seeds
Best defense: Best crops
 Crop which need little attention after planting
 Crop which is easy to harvest, store and use
 Crop which may form a staple in the diet
 Energy sources  High vitamin C
(carbohydrate) sources
 High protein sources  Iron, iodine rich crops
 Vitamin A sources
Profitability/Commercially in demand
1. Always consider----
2. High economic value
3. Hard to keep?
4. Rare but in wide demand
5. Plants that are suited to the area
LO4. PERFORM HARVEST AND POST HARVEST ACTIVITIES
HARVEST HANDLING
 Inherent quality of produce cannot be improved after harvest, only maintained for its
expected shelf life
Consider: production conditions; season; method of handling; distance to market; consumer
expectations
*More than 40% of perishable commodities are lost after production (Texas,US estimate)
When to Harvest
 Pick too early: inferior flavor; smaller harvest; not
store well
 Pick too late: inferior flavor; may lose crop
altogether; may bolt, turn bitter, woody, inedible
 Depending on crop, some crops quickly over-mature;
others must be harvested promptly and frequently
 PICK A CROP AT THE RIGHT STAGE OF
GROWTH
 The final stage in crop production
Good practices in harvest and postharvest must be implemented; includes:

1. Cutting 4. Sorting/ grading 7. Labeling/pricing
2. Cleaning 5. Weighing
3. Washing 6. Packing
How to harvest
1. Use sharp knife for harvesting; cut cleanly; faster work and leaves cut clean heals rapidly
2. Bruised and torn tissue invites rot
3. Vegetables deteriorate once harvested; best cooked within minutes of harvest
4. Leave air spaces around vegetables for fastest cooling – heat hastens decay
5. Avoid harvesting when plants are wet
6. Handle with care – slightest cut or bruise exudes sap that can invite decay causing
organisms
Practices to maintain quality of harvested produce

1. Harvest during the coolest time of day
2. Avoid unnecessary wounding, wounding, crushing or damage. Use baskets or crates to
minimize damage
3. Shade the harvested product in the field to keep it cool (minimize field heat)
4. Do not pack wet vegetables (dry off)
5. If possible, move the harvested product into a cold storage facility ASAP
6. Do not compromise high quality produce by mixing with damaged or decay-prone products in
a packed unit
7. Use clean packing and transport containers; food grade plastics, paper bags
Some tips to reduce harvest injury

1. Remove nails/staplers in field containers; clean out soil, debris from containers
2. Harvest workers should not have long fingernails
3. Use care in dumping products from one container to another
4. Do not overfill containers
FOOD SAFETY
 Observe cleanliness and sanitation
 Harvested products must not come into contact with contaminants and toxic elements
POINTS ON FOOD SAFETY

Water Quality Protect sources of water
Worker health and hygiene Provide training on hygiene practices
Sanitary facilties Toilets for worker; restroom distance to packing
facility; handwashing facility; cleanliness of facility
and management of wastes
Field stations Vegetable produce must not be contaminated by the
soil, compost, equipments, etc.
Packing shed Practice good sanitation; maintain cleanliness
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER
MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING ORGANIC FERTILIZER
required to prepare composting area, prepare raw materials,
carry out composting area, and harvest compost.

LO1. Prepare composting area and raw materials
LO2. Compost and harvest fertilizer
LO1. PREPARE COMPOSTING AREA AND MATERIALS
COMPOSTING– is the life of organic farming. It is the oldest and most natural form of
recycling organic material in which a high percentage of nutrients is captured and returned back
to the soil.
COMPOST – is the alternative fertilizer offered by organic farming. It is a mixture of

decomposed organic materials containing nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium
and lots of other minerals (copper, molybdenum, boron, iron, manganese, etc.) released into
readily available forms for plant use. Compost can improve soil fertility, widespread consistent
fertilizers, save water, suppress plant disease, and boost soil tilth.
IMPROVING SOIL FERTILITY through:
- compost application - green manuring

- mulching
COMPOST APPLICATION
- compost making is the activity of intervening in the natural process of degrading
organic materials to come up with safe & quality compost in a shorter time than the natural
process. Application is the activity of introducing or putting and or applying the compost to the
soil.
10 Benefits of Using Compost

1.Big Savings - Composting is economically sound as it cuts down expenses on synthetic
fertilizers. It contains valuable nutrients that could replace the use of commercial fertilizers.
2.Increases Yields - A fertile, vital soil will nurture the growth and health of plants due to the
increased number of elements made available to the plants.
3. Improves texture of any type of soil: sandy, clay, loose or hard.
4.Increases water-holding capacity of the soil and prevents soil erosion - Compost
encourages healthy root systems, which decreases run-off.
5. Improves structure and aeration - Compost loosens tightly bound particles so roots can
spread, water can drain and air can penetrate.
6. Provides organic matter and essential nutrients which are not supplied by chemical
fertilizers. Compost contains macro and micronutrients often absent in synthetic fertilizers
released slowly to plants.
7. Acts as buffer to changes in soil pH – Compost buffers the soil, neutralizing both acid and
alkaline soils, bringing pH levels to the optimum range for nutrient availability to plants.
8. Compost suppresses diseases and harmful pests and adds diverse living organisms in the
soil. Compost enriched soil have lots of beneficial insects, worms and other organisms (bacteria,
fungi, insects) that support healthy plant growth. When proper heating is observed, compost kills
bad bacteria and seeds of harmful weeds.
9. Mature compost can quickly be part of the soil – Compost is a mixture of decomposed
organic materials that easily dissolves and return important elements needed for the optimal
growth of plants to the soil.
10. Different materials can be blended or mixed which can increase the nutrient content of
the compost fertilizer.
TYPES OF COMPOST
1. Garden Compost – these are made from weeds, grasses and plants around us. These are best
for organic farming.
2. Kitchen compost – these are from the kitchen wastes generated from households/kitchens and
are best for ornamental plants.
3. Manure compost – compost produced from manure of animals and livestock.
Use of manure compost is discouraged because of the possibility of contaminants such as
colliform (pathogenic or bad bacteria)especially if the source of the manure comes from non-
organic poultry farms.
METHODS OF COMPOST MAKING

1. Rapid Method through Microbial Aide - done with the aid of compost activators or
microbes. Decomposition of materials is accelerated to just 2-4 weeks.
2. Traditional or Natural Method - is a slow process, requiring 3-4 months before the
materials are fully decomposed and ready for use as compost fertilizer. Uses animal
manure as aid.
3. Vermiculture/ Vermicomposting has also been
practiced recently by organic farmers. Composting in
this process is done with the aid of earthworms.
Guide to Compost Production: Key Considerations in

Producing Fertile Soil
A well managed compost material will produce a quality and safe

soil enriching amendment. To have quality compost, we must
provide the right environment.
CONSIDERATIONS:
1. COMPOST SITE
 The compost site should be near the source of raw materials and near the vegetable fields
where the compost is intended to be applied.
 It should have a shed and cemented floor if possible, to prevent run-off of valuable
minerals. Exposure to sunlight will cause nitrogen evaporation and exposure to rain will
wash away the nutrients.
2. COMPOST MATERIALS
 Do not be too selective in gathering materials needed for
composting. The compost should not be limited to certain
plants or weeds such as sunflower, and leguminous materials.
A mixture of plants will ensure complete nutrients and
minerals for the crops.
*Right Size – Shred or chop materials for easier and faster
decomposition. Shredding helps speed up decomposition by
increasing the surface area available for microbial action and for
better aeration.
3. COMPOST PILE
 The compost pile should have a correct mixture of Carbon to Nitrogen materials to ensure
proper decomposition.
 A good ratio of carbon to nitrogen is at 30:1 (30 parts carbon materials to 1 part nitrogen
materials).
 A compost pile rich in carbon materials results in slow decomposition while a compost
rich in nitrogen materials results in a smelly compost pile.
*Ensure proper aeration – beneficial microbes need oxygen to thrive and properly decompose
materials. More microbes means faster decomposition.
*Ensure enough moisture – microbes need moisture to breakdown the materials of the compost.
*A compost pile that is too dry will not heat up because microbes are not active. A compost pile
with too much moisture will clog-up air holes depriving microbes of oxygen.
*Proper Warmth/ heat – dictates the speed of decomposition of the compost pile. Heat
temperature of the compost pile should be at 50°C to 70°C. Heat will kill weed seeds and bad
bacteria.
*Right Volume - A compost pile should at least have a minimum width of 1 meter and minimum
height of 1 meter. A small volume of compost pile will not produce heat, while a too big pile will
result in an uneven decomposition
The following must not be included in the compost:

a. Manure from pet animals like dogs and cats –these are the source of harmful bacteria and
viruses
b. Human wastes (urine and feces)
c. Meat Scraps and bones – will attract animals and could result in the scattering of the
compost pile
d. Toxic Materials (batteries, colored inks, broken fluorescent bulbs, paints and solvents,
motor oil, etc)
e. Non-biodegradable materials like plastic, bottles, glass, tin cans
Making the Compost (Rapid Composting Technique)
1. Gather the needed materials. A mixture of grasses and weeds available in the farm (example:
napier grass and wild sunflower– stalks and leaves; garden cleanings; leftovers after harvest) will
be good materials for the compost.
2. Shred the gathered materials. Microbes can decompose smaller materials faster and easier.
3. Pile the shredded materials. A compost pile should at least have a minimum width of 1 meter
and a minimum height of 1 meter.
4. Spray the compost pile with compost activators. Compost activators enhance the rapid
decomposition of materials by increasing the multiplication of good bacteria or microbes.
5. Cover the compost heap. The compost heap is covered with plastic sheets, used sacks, banana
or coconut leaves- if placed outside. This will help increase the temperature and protect it from
rain that could leach the nutrients. However, if there is a compost shed, there is no need to cover
the compost pile.
6. Turn the compost heap daily. Turning the compost daily will help maintain heat which will
result in rapid and uniform decomposition.
7. In between turnings, check the moisture if it is too dry or too wet. The compost pile must have
proper moisture. To check it, you have to squeeze the material. If it spreads or cannot be
compacted, it lacks proper moisture. It should become whole or easily formed into a ball when
squeezed. If water drips, there is too much moisture.
8. Monitor the temperature. An ordinary thermometer can be used or you can improvise a metal
rod to monitor the temperature of the compost. Insert the metal rod in the compost pile. After 2
hours, pull it up. Try to hold the metal rod. If the part that is inserted is too hot to hold, the
desired temperature has been reached. But, if you can easily hold it, your compost lacks the
required temperature.
9. 14th day – Compost is ready for harvest. Compost is usually harvested around 2-4 weeks after
turning or rotation of the compost heap.
10. Compost application. Broadcast compost as basal fertilizer before final harrowing during
land preparation.
4 Reasons Why the Compost Pile Doesn’t Heat Up

1. The 30:1 carbon-nitrogen ratio is not properly followed.
2. Lack of moisture or too much moisture
3. The size is too small. The required size for the compost pile should be one meter both for its
height and width.
4. Lack of microbes – This implies that the compost pile lacks inoculants to enhance the
population of the microbes.
Materials with high nitrogen, phosphopus and potassium that a compost should contain:
For nitrogen
Japanese weed 4%
Sweet potato leaves and vines 3%
Young fern 2.1 %
Sunflower 2.4
Corn (5 weeks old) 2%
Plants rich in potassium
Sweet potato 2.1K %
Alnus 2.0K %
Fern 1.9 K %
Cogon 1.9 K %
Cabbage 1.8 K %
Rono 1.7 K %
Japanese weed 1.6 K %
Napier 1.5 K %
For Phosphorus
Bush beans 11.5 ppm
Garden pea 11 ppm
Cogon 11 ppm
Napier 9.9 ppm
Sunflower 8.8 ppm
Cabbage waste 8.1 ppm
Sweet potato 7.2 ppm
Alnus 9.1 ppm
PLANNING A COMPOST AREA

a. Consider proximity to planting area and source of materials.
b. Ideal if covered with cemented flooring
c. Protected from stray dogs and cats.
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE VARIOUS CONCOCTIONS AND
EXTRACTS
MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING VARIOUS CONCOCTIONS AND
EXTRACTS
required to prepare for the production, process and
packaging various concoctions.

LO1. Prepare for the production of various concoctions and extracts.
LO2. Process concoctions and extracts
LO3. Package concoctions and extracts.
LO1. PREPARE FOR THE PRODUCTION OF VARIOUS CONCOCTIONS AND
EXTRACTS
TYPES OF CONCOCTIONS
a. Indigenous Micro-Organisms (IMO)
b. Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ)
c. Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN)
d. Fermented Fruit Juice (FFJ)
e. Fish Amino Acid (FAA)
f. Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum (LABS)
USES/BENEFITS OF CONCOTIONS
TOOLS, MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT IN THE PREPARATION OF CONCOCTIONS
PROCEDURE
1. INDIGENOUS MICRO ORGANISMS (IMO)
- Revive soil nutrients. It speeds
growth of plants.
- Speed up composting works like
“vaccinating” against sickness,
illness and weeds.
- These are present in the soil but
have deteriorated due to many
factors.
How to make the concoction:

1. Put cooked/steamed rice in a wooden
box or perforated plastic tray that is 81/2” x 11” x 3” or a length of a bamboo pole
open or split open on one side. Make sure there Is enough moisture in the box. Fill
half of the container. Do not compress.
2. Cover the box, tray or bamboo with a clean sheet of paper and tie with a string. Label
the box indicating when concoction was prepared and the day it will be harvested.
3. Cover and wrap with plastic to keep out rainwater, protect from wild rats or small
rodents that may interfere, or destroy its contents.
4. Collect from forest floors, leaf molds, bamboo plantation, rice paddy or coconut husk.
5. In 3-5 days, take the rice along with the white molds that formed on top of it.
Disregard the black molds.
6. Place in a plastic container/jar the moldy rice and mix with 1 kilo of molasses or
crude sugar.
7. Cover the jar with a clean sheet of paper and tie with a string. |Place in a cool and
shaded place. After 7 days this will yield a mud like juice.
8. How to use concoction:
a. Mix 2 tablespoons of the juice to 1 liter of water.
b. Spray on soil and plants.
2. FERMENTED PLANT JUICE (FPJ)
- There are a lot of enzymes in leaves that enhances plant growth; and promote
photosynthesis

1. Use any green colored leaves such as
kangkong, kamote tops, kalabasa,
alugbati tops, bamboo shoots and other
fast growing plants. Fresh, juicy,
succulent leaves are best. Some
suggestions are banana stem, water
spinach, bamboo shoots, green grasses,
bamboo leaves and duck weed or azola.
Cut young banana trunk (cardava).
Collect before sunrise. Avoid collecting after excessive rain. Quickly snap the
growing points of the plants. Baby fruits can be used to promote growth.
2. Chop 2 kilo plants and mix 1 kilo of crude sugar in a large basin. Place in a clay jar or
plastic container. Put a rock on the top of a jar and wait for the ¾ of the contents to
settle at the bottom. After five hours and remove the rock and cover the jar with a
clean sheet of paper and tie with a string. Put the jar/plastic in a cool and shaded
place. Fermentation will be complete in seven days.
3. This will yield 2 ½ liters of juice when the banana trunk is used. Filter to separate
sludge.
APPLICATION:
- Apply using 2 tablespoon of FPJ/1.0 liter water.
- Apply directly to leaves of plants when sun is not hot. Before sunrise or 2 hours before
sunset.
- Plant material can be use as animal feed or compost. FPJ should have a pleasant smell
and sweet, tangy taste. Keep foe about one year.
POINTS TO REMEMBER:
Do not wash the material.
Seal the container with clean sheet of paper at room temperature. Avoid direct sunlight.
Solution is ready in seven days. Strain and transfer in a clean container.
Drain the liquid and place in plastic or glass bottles (always leave about 1/3 of bottle
empty so the IMO’s can breathe)
IMPORTANT: Do not tighten bottle lid for 2 weeks to allow gasses to escape and avoid a sticky
explosion!
Note: Wait till the tiny bubbles disappear then close the
container tightly. If you observed undissolved sugar at the
bottom, it means the fermentation did not take place. Extend
for another day and add a little water to reactivate.
3. ORIENTAL HERBAL NUTRIENT (OHN)
Natural pest repellant. It is used throughout the early, vegetative and change over period and
fruiting stages.
Is a very important input in natural farming.
Helps to develop the immune system of plants and animals.

Ingredients:
8 kilo crushed ginger for plants/garlic for animals
2 kilo moscuvado sugar
10 liters of gin or liquor 30-40 proof
Use ceramic or glass jar
1. Divide container into three parts. Mix ginger/garlic and

moscuvado sugar together preferably by hand and put inside jar. Cover and seal. Ferment for
seven days.
2. after seven days add 10 liters of gin. Cover and seal. Decant liquid after ten days. First
extraction is good for animals. Second extraction is good for plants. Just add gin same amount
taken from first extraction. You may add fresh or dry chili, neem fruit, curry fruit, makabuhay,
marigold for stronger potency and repeat same process the third time. And continue to ferment
for ten days.
3. Together with other mixtures spray on plants every week when they weaken or start to flower.
How to use concoction:

1. Mix the following
- 2 tablespoons of OHN to 1 liter of water.
2. Add to the IMO and FPJ mixture and spray together on the leaves and soil every week.
4. FERMENTED FRUIT JUICE (FFJ)

To sweeten the fruit (Potassium)
It increases plant nutrition through leaves and roots with potassium
factor.
HOW TO MAKE CONCOCTION:

1. Prepare 1 kilo sweet fruits to 1 kilo brown sugar; you may
use molasses. Suggested materials include banana, papaya,
pineapple, mango, jack fruit, star fruit, guava, pumpkin etc.
(citrus fruits are not recommended). Matured squash can also
be used. Recommended best mixture is banana 3kg, papaya
3kg, and pumpkin 3kg. rule of thumb-fermented fruit juice
from tomatoes fed to tomatoes is just like feeding breast milk
to the baby!
2. Ratio 1:1 Put 1 kilo sweet fruit inside the clay jar/plastic container & add 1 kilo of crude
sugar. Best prepared in the evening to prevent interference from flying insect.
3. Cover with a clean sheet of paper and tie with a string and label the jar indicating the date
it was prepared. Place in a cool and shaded place. Ferment for 7 days.
4. This will make approximately 1 ½ liters of juice. Drain the liquid and place in plastic
bottles (always leave about 1/3 of bottle empty so IMOs
can breathe).
How to use concoction:
For Plants:
Apply using 1 tablespoon of FFJ/1.0 liter of water. Apply directly
to leaves of plants when sun is not out. Ass to the IMO and FPJ
mixture and spray together with the leaves and soil of fruit bearing
trees or during vegetative and reproductive stages.
For Animals:
Mix 2 tablespoons of the juice to 1 liter of water. This is also good
for human consumption.
IMPORTANT: Do not tighten bottle lid for 2 weeks following bottling to allow gasses to escape
and avoid a sticky explosion! Solid material can be used as animal feed or compost. FFJ should
have a pleasant smell and sweet, tangy taste. Keeps for about a year.
Other:
Use FFJ to reduce latrine smell. Use 3 spoons/10 liters while cleaning. Pour 2-4 spoons directly
down toilet to help septic system.
POINT TO REMEMBER:
Chlorophyll in leaves does dissolve in oil or water. It can dissolve only with very weak alcohol.
There are lot of enzymes in leaves, when enzymes are mixed with brown sugar or molasses they
ferment through osmosis pressure and in the process we get the liquid or juice. Small fruits
fermented in brown sugar are used to promote growth. Get the little fruit and feed back to the
tree to make fruits a lot larger. You can also use the flowers or blooms of acacia and flowers that
bees loves.
It helps in the digestion of animal and plants nutrients. It resists plant diseases and protects plant
nutrients. It protects plants from insects. It speeds
harvesting. It is used as plant growth hormones. Spray to
leaves and soil.
5. FISH AMINO ACID (FAA)

Make nitrate from fish. It contains abundant amount of
nutrients and various types of amino acid.
1. Put whole fish or bones, gills and guts, scales, tails,

etc. in a glass/plastic container. Wash, crush live
snail or kuhol (eggs can also be used) and place in a
container. Pestle or crush materials. Don’t use
hands. Add the same amount of molasses or
Muscovado sugar. Mix sugar in ¾ container with
fish ingredients then remaining molasses. Prepare at night to prevent flies from breeding
in the concoction.
2. Cover and keep in a cool dry place or shaded area. Drain to extract liquid after 10 to 15
days. Transfer liquid into a clean plastic bottles. Wait till bubbles disappear before
sealing the cover and storing. Always leave about ¾ of bottle empty so IMO can breathe.
CALCIUM PHOSPHATE Ca-P (ANIMAL BONE)

Induces flowering, prevent overgrowth. For older plants, it increases calcium factor on roots and
leaves. Calcium Phosphate (Ca-P) is the product which according to plants’ lifecycle, can be
fast-effective. Ca-P is applied when the plants are about to flower. Feed to animals during
pregnancy or breeding time at 200 times dilution. Spray when the first flowers comes out. Ex:
tomato plant, cucumber, eggplant etc.
1. Boil or broil 2 kilos of animal bones to separate meat and fat until remaining meat to the
bone is charcoal black, scrape charred meat and let it cool. Do not burn the bone. Ratio
1:10
2. Place bone in a plastic container and pour 5 gallons of pure coconut or sugarcane vinegar.
Cover for 30 days. Filter and use. Cover container-air tight.
CALCIUM (EGGSHELL AND SHELLS)

Strengthen flowers. Contributes to better utilization of carbohydrates and protein. It is also a
major element in forming a cell membrane and enables smooth cell division; makes fruit hard
and sweet. Spray CA on the leaves after the fruits have become large. The concoction helps
prevent overgrowth and promote the development of sweet hard fruits. Add seawater, calcium
phosphate or OHN for better taste and aroma of the fruits. It is applied when the plants’ supply
of nitrogen is excessive. It is the most important ingredients for flowering.
1. Wash and crush eggshell and take the inside filament or film. Pan fry 2 kilos eggshell
until brown, set aside and cool. Pour vinegar first then slowly pour the eggshell.
2. Wait till the tiny bubbles disappear. Use exact size of container just enough to fill the
contents. Cover and ferment for 20 days. Filter and use keep in airtight container.
APPLICATION: FAA/CALPHOS/CALCIUM
- Apply using 2 tablespoons/ 1 liter of water.
- Apply directly to the soil or to the ground, not to the leaves.
- Keep concoction from direct sunlight. Store in cool dry place.
6. LACTIC ACID BACTERIA SERUM (LABS)

It converts waste into organic matter and basic
materials.
LABS thrive and feed on the ammonia released in
the decomposition normally associated with the foul
odor.
1. First rice wash, about 7 inches in depth even in large container is good for aeration in the
liquid.
2. Cover with clean sheet of paper and put container in shaded area for seven days.
3. After seven days it will develop sour smell and will form three layers: 1) Floating
compound – rice bran, 2) Clear – LAS, 3) Starch. Extract the clear (middle) layer using
siphon.
4. Secondary culture: Mix 1-part clear liquid (LAS) to 10 part of fresh milk. Put rice bran
evenly on top of the milk to keep it in anaerobic stage. Do not stir.
5. In 5 to 7 days, carbohydrate, protein and fat will float leaving yellow liquid (serum) or
whey which contains lactic acid bacteria. Extract only the yellow liquid and add crude
sugar for preservation or same amount of LAS. Keep in clean cool dry place. Process
should take place in even temperature.
6. Mix 2 tablespoons of LABS to1 liter of water. Improve growth rate on plants and
improve digestive on animals. Prevent disease development and epidemics. Prevent foul
odor. Cheese filtrate can be used as fertilizer with IMO5. There is no waste in Natural
Farming. Keep the solution out of direct sunlight.
6. NATURAL ATTRACTANT FOR FLYING INSECTS AND BUTTERFLIES

Elimination of flying insects.
1. One gallon of coconut vinegar or coconut wine (tuba) and add ½ kilo of crude sugar
before boiling. Cool and add 1/3 liter of FPJ concentrate.
2. Put some of the mixture in containers and hang on fruit bearing trees.
3. Put some of the mixture and hang on vegetable trellises.
4. Put some of the mixture in a container and place near vegetable plots.
Insects are alcoholics put a little bar. The insects come by, have a drink, get drunk, fall and die!
Dead insect cannot multiply.
LO2. PROCESS CONCOCTIONS AND EXTRACTS

LO3. PACKAGE CONCOCTIONS AND EXTRACTS.
UNIT OF COMPETENCY : RAISE ORGANIC HOGS

MODULE TITLE : RAISING ORGANIC HOGS
required to raise organic hogs effectively and efficiently. It
includes selection of healthy domestic hogs, determination
of suitable hog house requirements, proper feeding and
managing health and growth of hogs, and finish hogs.
LO1: Select healthy domestic hog breeds and suitable housing
LO2. Feed hogs
LO3. Grow and finish hogs
LO1: SELECT HEALTHY DOMESTIC HOG BREEDS AND SUITABLE HOUSING
BREEDS OF SWINE
a. THE PHILIPPINE NATIVE SWINE
b. PUREBREEDS
a. Landrace
b. Yorkshire/large white
c. Duroc
d.
Pietrain
e.
Hampshire
f.
Berkshire
g.
Poland China
h.
Other Purebreeds
1. Spotted Poland China
2. Limousine
3. Chester white
4. Hereford
5. Tamworth
6. Large black
7. China Taihu pigs (Fengjing, Meishan, Jianxing black)
c. UPGRADES
a. Kaman
b. Diani
c. Berkjala
d. Miracle pig
d. SYNTHETIC BREEDS/HYBRIDS
a. Babcock
b. Camborough
c. Cotswold
d. Hypor
e. Segher
f. Minnesotta No. 1
g. Nieuw Dalland
h. JSR
Common established breeds of swine
BREED COUNTRY TYPE OF COLOR OBSERVATIONS
OF EAR PATTERN
ORIGIN
Berkshire England Standing Black with six Large body, very short snout,
white points small prick, stocky body and
high quality carcass
Duroc United States Drooping Red in color Large, black flecks may appear
in the skin
Hampshire England Standing Black with white Not so stocky and is black with
belt and white white saddle. High in muscle
front legs and low in fat
Landrace England Drooping White in color Strong head, broad snout,
slightly concave, very long
sides, short legs
Large England Standing White in color Extremely long and deep, ears
white are thin, legs are straight and
well set
Pietrain Belgium Standing White with black Medium size and is white and
spots black spots, white hair leaves
them with less than the most
attractive coats
Poland Ohio Drooping Black w 6 white Known for heavy carcass and
China points gainability
Spotted Indiana Drooping Black and white Only in the snout and the feet
Poland spotted is spotted
China
Philippine Philippines Standing Black with white Long snout, long canine,
Native Pig spots dwarf, with hanging belly
Traits/Types of Various Breeders

• Meat type
• Piglet production
• Meat & Piglet production
• Etc.
Characteristics of Healthy Piglet for Organic Hog Raising

• No deformities
• Alert
• Good body balance
• Good feeding habits
• Resistant to pests & diseases
Common Traits of a Hog for Organic Raising

• The same body size from front to rear
• Good legs and feet
• Skin & hair are straight & shiny
• Plump loin and hump, etc.
GOOD SWINE COMPOSITION
The toes – the foundation of the pig
Toes should be big, even and well-spaced to take the weight of the animal
Toes too close together Big well-spaced toes Toes splayed
•
•
Reject animals whose toes are different by 1cm or more

(adult animal)
Condition of the toes
The toes should have no visible cracks, swellings or injuries.
This needs to include the underneath surface (palmar –front
or plantar – hind feet).
The position and angle of the dew claws indicates the strength of the pasterns
Ideally the dew claws should only just contact the floor.
From the side
Weak or dropped pastern Good pastern position Bucked knees
position
•
•
From the front
Toes point inwards –varus Toes face forward Toes point outwards-valgus
“Bow legged” Good conformation “Knock kneed” – “splay
footed”
The elbow
Desirable conformation Poor conformation
Photographic examples: The front leg

Ideally the dew claws should only just contact the floor.
From the side
Weak or dropped pastern Good pastern position Bucked knees
position
From the front

Toes point inwards Toes face forward Toes point outwards -
“Bow legged” Good conformation “Knock kneed” – “splay footed”
The elbow
The hind leg

Ideally the dew claws should be just off the floor.
From the side
Sickled leg Weak or dropped pastern Good conformation Post-leg
Angle of the hock too position Angle of the
small hock too great
From the rear

Toes point inwards or are Toes face forward Toes point outwards -
narrow based Good conformation “Cow hocked”
The hock
Photographic examples: The hind leg

Ideally the dew claws should be just off the floor.
From the side
Sickled leg Weak or dropped Good conformation Post-leg
Angle of the hock too pastern position Angle of the hock
small too great
From the rear

Toes point inwards or is narrow Toes face forward Toes point outwards -
based Good conformation “Cow hocked”
The hock
Desirable conformation Poor conformation – leg under abdomen
Reproductive examination
Underlines
There should be a minimum of 7 nipples present on each side.
The nipples should be prominent, evenly spaced and straight
Prominent well-spaced even nipples in a gilt
In the boar have three nipples ahead (cranial) of the prepuce
Vulvas
Infantile Small Good Tipped up

Avoid any gilt with damage to her vulva and this may cause problems at farrowing
Scrotum and testicles
Select boars with good sized testes. There is a Avoid any abnormalities including
correlation between testicular size and semen difference in size between testes.
output Avoid loose testicals
Anus Any other defect
All gilts should be checked to ensure that an Avoid any animal with a visible defect – for
anus is present. Absence called atresia ani. example dipped shoulders
Boars born without an anus die shortly after birth
Pigs with abnormalities – particularly heritable and congenital abnormalities should not be selected.
This should include congenital tremor.
Pigs which are sick or have been sick during their growth period are difficult to evaluate properly and
therefore should also be avoided at selection.
Housing Requirements for Growing Organic Hog

• Good beddings
• Shaded (protection from extreme weather conditions)
• Complete watering & feeding troughs
• Good ventilation
• Good drainage system, etc.
Basic Materials for Hog House Beddings

• Rice hull
• Carbonized Rice Hull
• Sawdust
• Soil
• Salt
LO2. FEED HOGS

LO3. GROW AND FINISH HOGS

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Unit of Competency: Raise Organic Chicken Module Title: Raising Organic Chicken Module Description

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UNIT OF COMPETENCY : RAISE ORGANIC CHICKEN

MODULE TITLE : RAISING ORGANIC CHICKEN

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Advantages of poultry raising

Disadvantages of poultry raising

Chicken Breeds in the Philippines

Signs of healthy stocks:

CHARACTER GOOD LAYER POOR LAYER

Guide in Selecting Stocks to Raise:

Equipment for Poultry:

Recommended Layout for Poultry Farms:

Basic Requirements for Successful Brooding:

Egg type chickens Meat type/broiler

Feeding ration and Management:

FEED FROMULATION FOR ORGANIC CHICKEN (GROWERS)

RECCOMMENDED FEEDING RATION

Organic Feed Preparation

CRUDE PROTEIN CALCULATION

For Independent Growers

SUMMARY OF LEARNING ACTIVITIES

ORGANIC HEIRLOOM SEEDS (OPEN POLLINATED SEEDS) – produce

Life expectancy of vegetable seeds

Activities in the Nursery

Pest and Disease Management in the Nursery

Irrigation/Watering in the Nursery

Disadvantages of using transplants

Factors affecting transplant success

LO3. PERFORM PLANT CARE AND MANAGEMENT

Main factors that determine productivity of crops and plants:

RECOGNIZING SOME COMMON PESTS

8. ROOT MAGGOT FLIES

11. FLEA BEETLE

12. DIAMOND BACK MOTH (DBM)

RECOGNIZING SOME COMMON DISEASES

7. ROOT KNOT NEMATODE

Good hygiene/ Sanitation

Land preparation and Soil tillage

Planting insect repellants

MECHANICAL & PHYSICAL

NATURAL CHEMICAL CONTROL

PLANT DISEASES CONTROL/ MANAGEMENT

Good practices in harvest and postharvest must be implemented; includes:

Practices to maintain quality of harvested produce

Some tips to reduce harvest injury

POINTS ON FOOD SAFETY

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES:

COMPOST – is the alternative fertilizer offered by organic farming. It is a mixture of

IMPROVING SOIL FERTILITY through:

- compost application - green manuring

10 Benefits of Using Compost

METHODS OF COMPOST MAKING

Guide to Compost Production: Key Considerations in

A well managed compost material will produce a quality and safe

The following must not be included in the compost:

4 Reasons Why the Compost Pile Doesn’t Heat Up

PLANNING A COMPOST AREA

SUMMARY OF LEARNING OUTCOMES: