sume Current Trends in [Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering SSN: 2577-2929 “Study of Abrasion Resistance of Denim Fabric by Changing Shedding Mechanism, Fabric Construction & Finishing Process (Singeing, De-Sizing)” Ayub Nabi Khan”, Sababul Islam, Samee Shakir, Rahmat Ullah and Azizul Haque {DCMEA Unversity of Farhion& Technolog, Dengiadess ‘Submission| ams 14.2010 Published: Mor 0H 2018 *Cocresponding author Ayub Nabikhae,SGMEA University ef Fadtion Technology Bary Ema indsababall320gmaont Suu af Abrasan Resctance Properties af oni Woven Fabric by Changing of Shoding Medhaniy, Fable Construct & Finishing Process Singeing DeSiingInhisexerental work the experiment was carried out cnsiering three eli cases: (ase 1 Abrasion resistance properties of enim abies using cm sedng ar by sheng keeping eric cansruction. yarn cent (az¢12°+107 10°70" eotn +spanéer same, hee sume sing recpe was used inboch te ses (ble 1 ase 2: abrasion ressance properties of comin fabrics fri using éiferontfabne constructon 3/1 Twi, 2/2 Twi, cam shed, mechan, se yancoun [12°+ 12°» 10) 10°70" (con spandes) and sme aug relpe were used (Table2), Case’: Abrasirredstance properties of deri arcs where denim ari ofsameparareters butane sgrey 8 anotber fs alshed where (ratte ‘These fnbics were tied witha Martindle Abrasion Teter te determine fre abrasion rexslance property The abso resslance of ‘the fibre was evalsted according te thirmazsloarrato t 4 diferent cos (000, 7500 10000 and 15,10) Acardingte dats obtained ‘rom the tot rss af thor thro cater we aber! hat cargo! sing mechani, the bic eonstmacan and nitingprvese Mat Saniticat feet on the abrasion ressanceproperyet woven drim ats, ‘Keywors: Woven denim abi Sizing Shedding mechanism: Abrasion resistance Denim fabric mas Ws: Rubbing Table 1: Parametors for Ca80 1 se | Sampliscote aoe aa 1 | nooteset ample saan) 30,83 2 | om wontine ain) enn 3 | fc onsmeana om om 7 theder tote Taner ve © | Waprmeon ei etait 7 | wernc ome Drecvaryne — 3 wre eter aed coven rae 7 | Waren come ata pa) 7 Geter peel Sees aon Taal Tse ig 99) TTTENS I BO)Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering tice feta Group) | _7a00% [mie baepemsand Gum) | ra0om Tail (Cel asin) 15.00% | elnl P((RefetResin) [15005 tansze ons ouesiand Geum) | sure | enezs cms o(emsianacrwun) | suv 0 Sizing Recipe i a i a a efel PADD 200% ofa FAD 0H Gist tra Sor 100% Tso Bata Son m7 ramet for Case 2 No Samplés Code Sample sample H Wo oftted sammie M6 30.0.0), z Benin waren ve Zw e) il Geer) Tele Toten ye Cron 5 wapyan 10 ation Nw eaReR 7 Warirepromes Diet Ties ° ‘Wek yar Ean esa Gove lerabewd o Wotyam cot 10570" (tien pando) TOR ote ade) oom _| tse 20 (ensandGeup) | TaD Taba (Rel Res) 350% | Reel (RnR) | 00% wo Seite sie ONS 60 (Estnd Gro] | S006 _| Ene S60 Eran Gwin) |S. a Refnol PA500 9.00% Refirol PASO0 9.00% Gis ra 100% Gis Batra Son 05 Tae 3 Pararvers tor Case 3 een |] SERED Same Sampio 1 | Neettertat ample 3G EE) HEF 2 Pesimwanen ae zi zi 7 Te hor Caton, oer Cevon igera * wwe yam ston yee He Caen yer ee 7 | Wegner TO (atin sap) TO (tien rapa) Ww [ stengiecne | _tmnet-20 emnand Gram) | Youur | ene E20 femsland rum) Toa Tetae ser nest) | ase | _netol sewed en) 500% Tree cH 60 Enalnd Grog) | E00) [Eves GEG (ld Gram) | a0 Reta PR SDD 50095 Tethol PAOD 30% Cisne 005 ise Eat a0 How oc this nt: NK Sat, Sams Shale Ratt Ace. ‘Sin fran Raia of Dani Fie y Garang Shutting Mcharar, Fare Carat 8 Fasting Praens (Sgong, Deu Curr Tene Fanhon Tel Teste Eng 2018 3 5tbheCurrent Trends in Fashion Technology & Testile Engineering Watt ngagent-tgn/L sak p/tive gel 4 gm ‘cH COOK +05 sm/t Wattingagent-Agn/L ak A gm/tiee Mgcle-+ gm (CHS COOH + 5 gm. Sans sine Emyne~ 6gav/Ltre mye ~ Gyn (Lire 12 | ratriccontmation onan onan Introduction 4 function of woave type. Seven woven fabrice with diferent ‘Alasion resistance isa major factor in determining the life span of many texte products tis influenced by all pars of fabric'shierarchy by the fber.by the yarn structure, and by the ‘webbing construction type Abrasion is a wear process. Wear is erosion or movement that occurs om a solld surface when I comes Into contact with another surtce and inchides adhesive wear, abrasion, surlace fbtigue erosion and freting wear. Tribology isthe uinbrella term that describes wear fiction and the interaction of surface Abrasion occurs during all aspects uf a cexte’s fe-cyde ‘during manufacture, use, and during cleaning. It afects the appearance of a textile, but may also influence its strength land functionality, Abrasion testing must replicate the real: Lie conditions that a textile wil encounter during is Leespan, “There are many different options for abrasion testing though thay are all based on similar principles. Abrasion resistance te not described by the Textile Institute, but is defined by ASTM as the resistance Co abrasion, usually stared In terms of a number of abrasion cycles, Academics at Leede University have described abrasion as “the physical destruction of fibers, yarns, and fabrics, resulting from the eubbing ofa textile surface over another surface" (1) “This test usually used to simulate the wear performance of textile yatns, fabric or Denim fabric in use (2). Abrasion resistance Is meas ured by subjecting che specimen 10a rubbing, rmotion in the form of a geometric figure that is straight line Which becomes a gradually widening ellipse until it forme another straight line in the opposite diction and traces the same figure agata under known condivns of pressure and abrasive action [3] Literature Review Influence of fabric patern on the abrasion resistance property fof woven fabrics In this experimental worle they studied, the abrasion resistance properties of woven fabrics were investigated as weave derivatives werewovea with 100% cotton and 20‘ex (Ne 30/1) combed ring spun yarn for this investigation. These fabeics "wore tasted with a Martindale Abrasion Testor to determine tie abrasion resistance property. The abrasion resistance of the fabrics was evaluated according to their mass loss ratte after 4 “ierent cycles (5,000, 7500, 10000, 15,000) ofthe Martindale Abrasion testing device. According to data obtained from the test results of sample weave patterns, wa observed that the ‘eave pattern has asigaifcant effect on the abrasion resistance property of woven fabries (P<0o1). Furthermore, IC was also noted thatthe numberof rubbing cycles has 2 significant effect on the abrasion rasstance property of woven farce (Pe0.01) ‘Turley test results showed that weave types with ahigh number fof floats and low number of interlacing decrease the abrasion resiscance property (P<0.05) [3] Tensile and tearing properties of newly developed structural denim fabrics after abrasion In this experimental work they studied to cases the tensile and tearing properties of newly developed structural deaima labries after an abrasion Lond and to compare them with those ‘oftraditional denim fabric The farce developed were designed fas large and small strucral pattern and traditional denim fabric. Al the denim fables were first abraded, and Later tensile and tearing tests were performed on them separately. The tensile properties ofthe abraded large structural pattern denim fabrics were generally inferior to these ofthe small structural pattern and wadltional dent fabric, When the abrasion cycles |were Increased, the tensile properues of all the denim ‘aries ‘genorlly decressed. The weft directional tearing strength ofthe smal structural pattem denim fabric was significantly higher than that of the traditional and large structural pattern denim fabrics. When the abrasion odes were increased, the tearing propertceinthewott and warp ofall the denim fabrics generally ecreased 5} Methodology Abrasion Resistance by the Martindale Method ASTM. 104966498 Standard Test Btethod for Abrasion Resistance of| ‘Textile Fabrice (Martindale Aarasion Tester Method) [6] How to ce this atic Ayub NK. Sabet SomseShatc Rett U Avene “Stoo aon Resists of Dain Fabre by Charana MEDI) Societe Pate Corarcien & ining rece (Smeg, Co-Serg| Car Tens Fshion Tso Tents Eng 2316 30) 5861sCurrent Trends in Fashion Technology & Testile Engineering Methods & Materials ASTM D 4966-98 Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (ASTM American Society for ‘Testlg and Matera). ‘AL first, we cut the @bric into 3 pleces for each cases according to the measuremeat of the instrument (Abrasion cuter). Weighted these all pieces of fabric samples. Placed 3 samples every times in the instrument under a certain load (SKN). On the machine and observed the unter of abrasion 10 Tester device, The abrasion resistance was determined by the macs lois as the diferance betwaan the masses beforeand ater abrasion cyeles of 5,000, 7,500, 10.000 ane 15,000. This values were expressed by the ratio of masses loss vs samples and again ratio of masses loss vs number of eyes (7). ‘Materials Procedure ‘Gur tested Sample fabrics were woven by a PICANOLOMNI plaeloom with an elactronie debby shedding mechanism and a ‘cam shedding mechanism where rapier weft insertion ata loom speed of 500 rpm. Warping process is done by direct warglng process system and sized with a sample siaing in slasher sing machine. Aer sizing, a straight draft was applied to the warp shoot manually. @ frames were used forall sample fbrice with 4 suraight drat. The only fishing treatment applied co the samples was de-szing. Thestzing and deesizing recipe are given in Table 4 Structural views ofthe 6 woven fabrics tasted inthis ‘experiaental study ategiven in igure 1 “Table 4: Prysical Propertes of Fapne. Results & Discussion Incase 1 “The average mass lose values of Aavigat different cycles is ‘Aavrg5000~0.5779, Aaveg7500-0835%, Aav7g10000-1.117%, ‘AavngL 5000=2.237% and theaveragemass loss values of BaveRat ‘aiferent cydes 1s Bavrg5000=0.936%, Bavrg7500=1.475%, Baurgl0000=1.824, Bavrg15000=3.120%, Al of results hove show that BA. So te fabric produced by Cam shedding mechanism), t's abrasion resistance property Is better than the brie produced by Dobby shedding mecharistm(B) (Figure 2. Te Fac i ron ATA smberof aes cull Figure 2 : Mas oss rao of diferent cases aie abrasion est olferert numberotoyces, am shedding mechanism is very simplest, It gives the best resultwtihin itscapaciylesswear and tar urs les tran upon the threads, Dwell period may beadjustable but the adjustment ‘of dwell is complicated for dobby and strain upon threads ie Figure 1: Structural vows af weave pus more. Yer,our used speed (S0Orpm) and Heald frames (8) ae ete a a suitable for Cam shealding mechanison (Table 5). BAA, 31a ll Can, Fnisied | Table 5: BEB, aia Teal Dols Fiat CGC, 3/2 Til ‘ny Somple | FabieWeigheg/m® LYoencrimp. 5 eave Typo | Same Weis DBD, Brat ny (ars) ‘Wan [ wen EEE, 3/2 Twi ‘ny ron | 3127 3 [is RE Bf al Fiishod rene | sar a [is mCase 2 The average mass lose values of CavrEAt diferent eycies 1s Czvrg5000-0.963%5, Cavrg7S00=2 148%), Caveg10000=2.0479) Cavrg15000~4.107%and the average mas loss values ofDavrgat diferent cycles is Davrg5000=0.256%, Darrg7500=1.153%, DavrgL0000=2.024%, BavrgiSO00=2.5708, All oF results here show that C>D. 3/1 2 Twill fibro's abrasion resistance property| iblessthan 2/2 Zewill fabric 2/27 twillfabrichas more contact How to ce this atic Ayub NK. Sabet SomseShatc Rett U Avene “Stoo aon Resists of Dain Fabre by Charana MELEE) Societe Pate Corarcien & ining Prces (Smeg, CoSerg| Car Tends Fashion Tso Tents Eng 2316 30) 5861sCurrent Trends in Fashion Technology & Testile Engineering polnts thar makes the fic dimensionally very scrong than 8/1 ‘Twill fabrie (Table), ‘Teble 6: Mass values of samples at arent rubolg oles So, ney fabrc's abrasion resstance property Is lower than Anlshed fabric During the finished operation, fibres onthe fabric surfoco will ling to it, hence the fabric will achieve a dosor state, and the movement of fibres withia the yarn willbe Limited (mgure 3), TS Ts a Of eee Cases TT aRTON TT ‘of ciiferent ruber of eyes gure 3 Mas oss rao of diferent cases afer abrasion est ofeliferert numberof eyes, ‘Massof | _MassotSamples after biferentcyaes, Samples (es) sample before sting | 5, 7500 | 10000 | 25,000 (ams) waver | a7or | esa | aose [aes | noe | am | a7 | ame [aos | aon siwar | a7 | avaa | ase | t58 | soon ca | aa [amo [az | ara | a7a6 | ae [ane [am | arm | ans come) | sara [ava | aves [ae | az Dtewra) | ava | came | azas | ace | aaa m case The average mass loss values of Eavrgat different cycles ts aurg5000-0.390%4, Eavrg7SO0=1.178%, EavegIO000-1, 753% Eavrg15000=2.6101 and the average mass loss values ofFavrgat ferent cyees is Favrg5000=0.333%, Favrg7500=1.144%, FavrgI0000=1.461%6, Farrg15000=2.682%. All of results here show that E> (Table 7) ‘Table 7: Mass losses Parcontage Calolaton . Mase Lore ereontge (0) aL arm | 1208 2108 Tass Kas peiceriaga=wagh ol sample before abrasion= ‘weight of sample fier abrasion * 100 weight of samplaeftar abrasion Conclusion ‘Abrasion resistance propertes of fabric fs very Imporcantin respect of end users. There is2 huge demand of denim fabrics in the wotld. The production and demand of denim are increasing day by day. Different types of effect on the surface of denim is done by abrasion. The denim fabric damaged by abrasion ‘theough ifs used. So abrasion resistance properties of denimn frie with diferent parametors should be laowa, In our study, sve cserved thot the result of abrasion resistance changes with the change of parameters of denim fbriclike fiber, yar, sting, ‘desiring shedding mechanism, finishing process ee Acknowledgement (ur spacial thank goes tour industry supervisor Md. Shah, Jahan sir (Se. Manager) of Snasha Denim LTD for teaching us| aboutallover Denim fabric production processes practically and also thank for providing us, experimental Denim fac camploe ‘with ou requirement for our project work. ‘We would like tocxpress talc to our lab instructor Mi HLM. Pbidu abirwho gave usa great effort and attempt during cis projec work. ‘We would als like to express aur thanks to the management of BUFT fortheir ancouragementin caring out the projact work, References 1. tp Ammitp cok lmowodge/ material uncionaliy/ shrasonesstance/ermesnd-defitone) 2 Tote Tens and Oetntins(21%ada) by he we nsuiate 2 (1095) ASTI D1966.98 Standard Test Method fer Abrasion Rasistance textile fries (Matinee Abra Tester Moto) Ana Bane ‘ASTM Stanlards, Tete, Pilacephia7 How to ce this atic Ayub NK. Sabet SomseShatc Rett U Avene “Stoo aon Resists of Dain Fabre by Charana MELA Societe Pate Corsten & ining rece (Smog, Coen Car Tens Fashion Tso Tents Eng 2316 30) 5861sCurrent Trends in Fashion Technology & Testile Engineering 4 lof 2 Aders)ne20es bab 20am Download/ FTES 6,54 vt 5 lef fversnei2 Oath 20s Dowload / FTES, 8,54 mt 4 mepar/appsnt capo 20F Lee /AbracorSh2OResitaneo20%20 Marundale pa 1. ASH pst -o9(2017) ‘Your nov subasion with juniper Pubcon wil reach youthe below assets + qualtyeatortal serie + Swit Per Review + Repemtsavaabity + maruserpereccastor convenertunderstancirg + Global aesirment or your research + Manuscript acess inc ren fomats (AL Epub, FullText. Audio) + Uneessingenstanersewice ‘Track thebelow URL for one-stop eubimision pe uniporpublishers.2m online submicion 9 How to ce this atic Ayub NK. Sabet SomseShatc Rett U Avene “Stoo aon Resists of Dain Fabre by Charana HEDGE) Societe Pate Corarcien& ining Prces (Smeg, Coen Car Tends Fashion Tso Tents Eng 2316 30) 5861s