DEPARTMENT OF FDT

PROGRAM: BSC IN HON’S

COURSE CODE: TEX-308

COURSE TITLE: TESTING OF TEXTILE ( sessional)

TEACHER NAME: MD.ABUBAKKAR SIDDIK
LECTURER OF SONARGAON UNIVERSITY
AMT&FDT

DATE-24/06/2020

STUDENT NAME: GOLAPI AKTER

BATCH NAME : SATKANIA
STUDENT ID: FDT-1801012001

ANSWER TO THE QUESTION NO :- 01

The burn test
Burning a swatch is a simple way to test any fabric's fiber content. Here's how to burn and read the
ashes for 10 common fiber types. You can usually immediately detect the presence of a synthetic in the
ash of a fabric that appears to be all natural. Synthetic fibers, except rayon and Tencel (which are
derived from cellulose), react differently from natural fibers: They melt, most turning into a hard bead.
Natural fibers all leave a soft or crushable residue.

Reaction of Fibers to the Burn Test

Cotton
Is a cellulose fiber. It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it
continues to glow. It gives out a smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is
fine and soft and can be easily crumbled.

Hemp
A cellulose fiber, burns quickly with bright flame. It leaves no melted bead and after burning no sign of
flame is seen. It smells like burning leaves or wood. The ash is gray and smoke has no fume hazard.

Jute
Also a cellulose fiber, doesn’t shrink from flame. Other characteristics are similar to those of hemp fabric.

Linen (Flax)
A cellulose fiber, it takes longer to ignite. It is easily extinguished by blowing on it. Other properties are
similar to hemp and jute.

Rayon
Is a manufactured cellulose fiber. It burns without flame or melting and may flare up.
Unless there is a fabric finish, it doesn't leave any bead. After the flame is removed, it may glow a bit
longer than cotton. It smells like burning paper and leaves soft, gray ash. It's smoke is a little hazardous.
Silk
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly and curls away from the flame. It leaves a dark bead which can be
easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves ash that is a dark, gritty, fine powder. It smells like
burned hair or charred meat. It gives out little or no smoke and the fume has no hazard.

Wool
Is a protein fiber which burns slowly. It sizzles and curls away from flame and may curl back onto
fingernail. It leaves beads that are brittle, dark, and easily crushed. It is self-extinguishing and leaves
harsh ash from crushed bead. It gives out a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. It gives out dark
smoke and moderate fume.
Acetate, Triacetate
Is a protein fiber which burns quickly and can flare even after flame is removed. The bead is hard, brittle,
and can't be crushed. It melts into a very hot bead and drips very dangerously. No ash is left by it and the
smell is like hot vinegar or burning pepper. It gives out black smoke and the fume is hazardous.

Nylon, Polymide
Are made from petroleum. Due to their fabric finish, they quickly burn and shrink to flame. The beads are
hard, grayish and uncrushable. After flame, they burn slowly and melt. They are self-extinguishing but
drip dangerously. Their odor is like celery and they leave no ash but the fume is very hazardous.

Polyester
Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. It burns quickly and shrinks away
from flame, may also flare up. It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and
is not always self-extinguishing. It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke
and fume are hazardous.

Acrylic, Modacrylic, Polyacrylic

Made from natural gas and petroleum, they flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn rapidly with
hot sputtering flame and drip dangerously. Beads are hard, dark, and with irregular shapes. They continue
melting after flame is removed and are self-extinguishing. When burning, they give out a strong acrid,
fishy odor. Although no ash is left, their black smoke and fume are hazardous.

ANSWER TO THE QUESTION NO :- 02

 Fabric GSM:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile
engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that
is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit
area which is heavier and which is lighter.

GSM cutter
The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the ‘weight per unit area’ or the
‘weight per unit length’; the former is self explanatory but the latter requires a little explanation
because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be affected by its width. In woven
fabric, the weight per unit length is usually referred to as the ‘weight per running yard’. It is
necessary therefore to know the agreed standard width upon which the weight per running yard
is based. Usually this width depends upon the width of loom. Before coming the term ‘GSM’
there was another term called ‘lb/100 yards’. This expression is used by British Standard. For
measuring this there are a template and a quadrant balance. The template area is 1/100 square
yards of which each arm is 1/10 yards in length. For measuring GSM, a GSM cutter is used to
cut the fabric and weight is taken in balance. Both of these measurement and method is equally
used for both woven and knitted fabrics.

Apparatus:
1. GSM cutter
2. Electric balance.
Working Procedure of Measuring GSM of a Fabric:
1. For Measuring GSM, fabric sample is cut by GSM cutter.
2. Now weight is taken by electric balance.
3. By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric.
4. Here GSM of the fabrics by the GSM cutter is obtained by the multiplying the sample
weight with 100.

ANSWER TO THE QUESTION NO :- 03

Description Of Lea Tester
It is a motor driven, pendulum type lea tester. It consists of an upper jaw and a lower jaw. The
lower jaw can be engaged with a screw mechanism, which is driven at a constant speed by a
motor. Thus a constant rate of traverse of 12 inches/minute is given to the bottom jaw. The top
jaw is connected to a pendulum arm by means of a steel tape. A heavy bob is attached to the
pendulum arm and the arm moves over a serrated quadrant. A pawl is attached to the pendulum
arm to control the movement of the arm and helps the arm to stop when the lea breaks. There is a
dial, calibrated in pounds, over which a pointer moves through the geared movement of the
pendulum arm. The pointer indicates the lea strength in pounds on the dial.

Working Principle Of Lea Tester

Samples of lea are prepared from the ring bobbins or cones using wrap reel. The length of the lea
is 120 yards. The bobbins are reeled under the same tension and with a small traverse to separate
the layers. When the set length is wound, the reel automatically stops and the lea is transferred
from the wrap reel to the lea tester.
          
The lea is mounted over the jaws and when in doing so, care should be taken to avoid the
formation of any twist in the lea and the grapping of threads on the jaws.
          
Then the bottom jaw is engaged with the screw mechanism and the motor is switched on. As the
bottom jaw descends, a load is imposed on the loops of yarn constituting the lea.
          
Because of the pull on the upper jaw, the pendulum arm is pulled which moves the pointer over
the dial. At one point, one or two strands break and then many will slip and at the stage, there
will not be any further movement of the pendulum. The pendulum will be prevented in falling
back suddenly by the pawl which engages with the teeth over the serrated quadrant. At that
place, the pointer also stops moving and indicates the maximum load on the dial. This load is
called the strength of the lea. The lower jaw is then brought up and the lea is removed from the
jaws.

END