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ROME GUIDE

APRIL 2018 // £4.20 UK EDITION // NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK

�eturn to the
GREEK ISLANDS
SANTORINI // MYKONOS // NAXOS // SIFNOS // MILOS

VODKA ON
THE VOLGA
TAKE TO THE
WATERS OF RUSSIA

MEET THE MĀORI IN

COMEDY
CENTRAL
MONTREAL’S
New Zealand
JUST FOR LAUGHS

Plus
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018 WINNERS

ALSO: TUNISIA // LISBON // ISTANBUL // MIAMI // BORDEAUX // MUMBAI // SOUTH KOREA

 FREE INSIDE
WESTERN AUSTRALIA GUIDE

MAY 2018 // £4.20 UK EDITION // NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK

RETURN OF THE

THE
GREAT
BRITISH

italian
SEASIDE

JOB
A NEW TAKE
ON AN OLD
FAVOURITE

THAILAND

MEET THE HILL TRIBES

OF THE REMOTE NORTH
PLUS
MELBOURNE BRAZIL
COPENHAGEN ON THE ROAD TO
PHILADELPHIA BOHEMIAN BAHIA

ALSO: MADEIRA // BERLIN // SEYCHELLES // SRI LANKA // ST HELENA

 A N E N T I R E LY N E W C L A S S O F YA C H T

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10.09.2018
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 May
2018

Contents

98

FEATURES

76 Italy 110 Thailand 134 Copenhagen

Acquaintances made, it’s time
to discover a new side to this
perennial favourite of travellers
98 Brazil
Getting to Brazil’s most secluded
coastal town is no easy feat, but
that’s all part of the experience
In the thick greenery of the
Golden Triangle, the spirits of
the past are as alive as the locals
122 Seychelles
As vibrant as it’s idyllic, the
paradise isle of La Digue is best
explored on two wheels
Beyond its chic stylings, this
Scandi capital is one of the
world’s happiest cities
144 Philadelphia
The ‘birthplace’ of the USA is
undergoing another revolution,
and this time it’s hedonistic
Issue 65
A Naples busker plays
music to passers by
IMAGE: Joseph Hobbs/
Picfair

May 2018 5
 May
2018

Contents

26 56 63

SMART TRAVELLER 37 Top 5 TRAVEL GEEKS

A foodie foray in Palma
15 Snapshot 154 Travel Geeks
Veil Murugan in Penang, Malaysia 39 Stay at home The experts’ travel manual
The wild and wonderful West Highlands
17 Editors’ picks 166 Report: St Helena
These are a few of our favourite things 41 The word Getting closer to the remote island
Jonathan Drori’s Around the World in 80 Trees
18 Big picture 172 Report: Great British seaside
Rooms with a view in Innerdalen, Norway 47 Author series A coastal renaissance is happening at home
Nina Caplan on Rome
20 What’s new GET IN TOUCH
Sydney chic and Kew Gardens 48 View from the USA
Aaron Millar on Detroit 184 Subscriptions
25 Literary locations Great offers and discounts
New museums, tours and hotels 50 Online
Weekly highlights from natgeotraveller.co.uk 185 Inbox
26 Do it now Your letters, emails and tweets
Taking the plunge with where to go diving INSIDER
186 Your pictures
29 Food 52 Weekender: Madeira This month’s best travel photos
The plates of Paris get international Exploring Portugal’s lush little isle

31 On the trail 56 Eat: Sri Lanka DON’T MISS

Tucking in to Jaipur’s street food From curry leaves to coconut cream
44 Travel Writing Competition
32 Rooms 63 Neighbourhood: Melbourne Do you have what it takes to write for
Pillow talk in Johannesburg Beating the streets of a cultural melting pot National Geographic Traveller (UK)?

34 Family 68 Sleep: Berlin 45 Events

Making a splash on canal boats Nodding off in the eclectic German capital Travel Geeks: Japan and more

Competition turn to p.43 for a chance to win a luxury three-night getaway to Corsica

6 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 Contributors
National Geographic Traveller (UK) APL Media

Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editorial Manager:

Julia Buckley
I’m always thrilled by how Italy balances
preserving its heritage with looking to the
future. But to see it all coming together with
a new generation of Italians reinventing the
wheel is incredibly exciting for everyone
who loves the country. ITALY P.76
Lydia Bell
Bahia, Brazil’s ‘land of happiness’, has had
many a visitor returning waxing lyrical. To
call this unspoiled coast blessed would be
an understatement: you fall asleep to the
thunder of the surf and wake to blue skies.
Go and be lulled. BRAZIL P.98
Editor: Pat Riddell
Deputy Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro
Executive Editor: Glen Mutel
Associate Editors:
Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup
Assistant Editors:
Tamsin Wressell, Connor McGovern
Project Editor: Zane Henry
Online Editor: Josephine Price
Content Editor:
Charlotte Wigram-Evans
Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben
Murray, Nick Rutherford
Operations Manager:
Seamus McDermott
Events Manager: Natalie Jackson
Art Director: Chris Hudson
Art Editor: Lauren Atkinson-Smith
(maternity leave)
Acting Senior Designer: Philip Lay
Designers: James Ladbury,
Kelly McKenna
Production Manager:
Daniel Gregory
Special Projects Consultant:
Matthew Midworth
Business Development Team:
William Allen, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen,
Lianna Mazure, Glyn Morgan,
Adam Phillips, Mark Salmon,
John Stergides
Head of National Geographic
Traveller — The Collection:
Danny Pegg
Jo Fletcher-Cross
Contributing Editors:
Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova
Editorial Assistant: Paige Apetino
Designers: Lauren Gamp,
Becky Redman, Danielle Humphrey
Production Controllers:
Karl Martins, Joaquim Pereira,
Lisa Poston, Joanne Roberts,
Anthony Wright
APL Business Development Team:
Neil Bhullar, Chris Dalton, Adam Fox,
Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus
Chief Executive:
Anthony Leyens
Managing Director:
Matthew Jackson
Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Sales Administrators:
Melissa Jurado, Hayley Rabin
Executive Assistant: Taylah Brooke
Financial Controller: Ryan McShaw
Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Accounts Assistants:
Jana Abraham, Stefano Pica

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,

Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
natgeotraveller.co.uk
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk

James Draven
Mine was a somnambulant schlep through
the forests of Northern Thailand. Having
lost sleep to the loud livestock of the Lahu
people, the following night I was kept awake
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National
Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire
contents are protected by copyright 2018 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without
prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine,
but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are
advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in
the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any
liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.

by a Karen family’s departed ancestors

going bump in the night. THAILAND P.110 National Geographic Traveler (US) National Geographic Society

Editor-in-Chief: George W. Stone Interim President & CEO:

Ben Lerwill
There’s so much about Copenhagen that’s
impressive— the architecture, the food,
the pace of life — although it can make our
own cities feel cluttered by comparison. It’s
stylish, spacious and just about the perfect
size for a mini-break. COPENHAGEN P.134
Stephanie Cavagnaro
It’s not easy measuring up to powerhouse
cousins like New York and Washington DC.
But Philadelphia is doing just that — with
new museums, innovative restaurants, a
BYOB scene and pop-up parks, don’t miss
the cultural renaissance. PHILADELPHIA P.144
Director of Photography:
Anne Farrar
Editorial Projects Director:
Andrew Nelson
Senior Editor: Amy Alipio
Associate Editor: Brooke Sabin
Deputy Art Director:
Leigh V. Borghesani
Research Editor: Alexandra E. Petri
Copy Editors: Preeti Aroon, Cindy
Leitner, Mary Beth Oelkers-Keegan
Communications Vice President:
Heather Wyatt
Communications Director:
Meg Calnan
Publisher & Vice President,
Global Media: Kimberly Connaghan
Senior Vice President, Global
Media & Experiences: Yulia P. Boyle
Senior Manager, International
Publishing: Rossana Stella
Editorial Specialist, International
Editions: Leigh Mitnick
Copyright © 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
National Geographic Traveler: Registered Trademark. Printed in the UK.
Michael L. Ulica
Board of Trustees Chairman:
Jean M. Case
Vice Chairman: Tracy R. Wolstencroft
Explorers-in-Residence: Sylvia Earle,
Enric Sala
Explorers-at-Large: Robert Ballard,
Lee R. Berger, James Cameron,
J. Michael Fay, Beverly Joubert,
Dereck Joubert, Louise Leakey,
Meave Leakey
National Geographic Partners
CEO: Gary Knell
Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg
Chief Financial Officer:
Marcela Martin
Chief Communications Officer:
Laura Nichols
Chief Marketing Officer: Jill Cress
Consumer Products & Experiences:
Rosa Zeegers
Digital Product: Rachel Webber
Global Networks CEO:
Courteney Monroe
Legal & Business Affairs:
Jeff Schneider
Sales & Partnerships: Brendan Ripp

8 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 HIGHLIGHTS

Editor’s
letter Western Australia guide
Our free, 20-page guide to this wild and

F
wondrous landscape will give you plenty of
or many of us, there’s a country that calls us back, tips on where to go and how to do it.
time and time again. For me, it’s Italy — it could be a
city break, a country retreat or a week with the
family by the coast. Before Christmas, I got my Italy fix
here in the UK, at a little place in Marylebone that sources
its burrata from Puglia. Last month, it was a short trip to
the Dolomites, where the skiing is as appealing as
wandering the local vineyards (try the Trentodoc or The Masterclasses
For the first time ever, we’re hosting a full
Teroldego Rotaliano). In the summer... well, I haven’t got day of travel writing and photography
that far yet, but a couple of weeks roaming will do me, masterclasses, packed with top tips (p.12).
pretty much anywhere, from the lakes in the north to the
shores of the south.
Italy can sometimes seem like a country resting on its
laurels — and not just the Roman wreaths — which is why
we’ve highlighted the people, projects and places
breathing fresh life into la dolce vita. A new generation is
hard at work reviving, even reimagining, elements of Italy’s Travel Writing Competition
Calling all budding travel writers — our
forgotten or abandoned heritage.
annual competition is still open for a chance
There’s the tour guide in Bologna offering a novel twist to see your work in print (p.44).
on an ancient drinking game, the Venetian artisans
preserving time-honoured traditions with a loyalty card,
the fruit-obsessed chef in Emilia-Romagna with a daring
take on pasta classics, the former monastery offering a
digital detox, and much, much more. We’ve mapped it all
out to ensure you get the best Italian fix this year. Prego.
Nat Geo Traveller Food
PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR Subscribers will receive the quarterly
National Geographic Traveller Food in print
@patriddell from September. For your free digital copy of
@patriddell issue one visit: natgeotraveller.co.uk/freefood

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

NATJA Travel Media Awards 2017: Photography: Overall Excellence — Print Publication • British Travel Awards 2017: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Guild of
Travel Writers Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • ATTA Media Awards 2017: Best Cultural Article on an African Destination, Best Blogger on Africa & Best Online Coverage
on Africa • British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Travel Awards 2014:
Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2013: Best Overseas Feature • British Travel Press Awards 2012: Young Travel Writer of the Year

SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK ON FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+ TUMBLR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM

10 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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All rights reserved - PONANT. Documents and photos for illustrative

purposes only. Photo credit : © PONANT / Nathalie Michel / François
Lefebvre.
SMART TRAVELLER // EVENTS

B o o k n ow
ONLY £ 40
O FOR £70
OR T W

Masterclasses The
AN EXPERT-LED DAY OF TRAVEL WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY

If you want to enhance your skills by learning from the experts,

then read on — we have just the thing for you

12 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SMART TRAVELLER // EVENTS

From brooding landscapes cloaked in mist to the wry smile of a MEET SOME OF

1 wizened local, the world of travel photography lurches from the

magnificent to the mysterious. But above all, it has to inspire. So,
THE SPEAKERS

J U LY for the first time ever, we’re bringing together a whole day full of
photography workshops and masterclasses, led by award-winning
photographers, to arm budding photographers with all the expert
advice they need to take their skills to the next level.

CHRIS HUDSON //
ART DIRECTOR

HARRY SKEGGS //
WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER

ALECSANDRA RALUCA
DRAGOI // TRAVEL
PHOTOGRAPHER

SESSIONS INCLUDE: ONE-ON-ONES

• Pitching and publication In partnership with the
• Wildlife Nikon School, we’ve KIRAN COX // STREET AND
• Landscape got a limited number of URBAN PHOTOGRAPHER

• Portraiture one-on-one photography tutorials

• Street with a leading travel photographer on
• Kitting up offer — perfect for some individual
• Instagram feedback. Find out more online.

THE DETAILS
WHEN: Sunday 1 July 2018,
10am-6pm
WHERE: University of
Westminster, Marylebone Road,
London NW1 5LS
TICKETS: £40, or two for £70.
One-on-one tutorials £25.
Book online.
MATT INWOOD //
ARE YOU A BUDDING ART DIRECTOR AND
PHOTOGRAPHER
WRITER, TOO?
It’s not just photography — we’ve got
a whole day’s worth of travel writing
masterclasses, too. Whether you
want to know how to pitch, or are
just itching for expert tips to perfect
your prose, our sessions with award-
winning travel writers have got you NORI JEMIL //
sorted. More info on the website. TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHER

MORE INFORMATION ON SESSIONS, SPEAKERS AND

TICKETS AT NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/EVENTS

May 2018 13
The C60 Trident Pro 600 isn’t a bestseller for
nothing. Water-resistant to a depth of 600m,
it’s the perfect diving watch. But with its
scratch-resistant ceramic bezel and elegant
stainless steel case, it’ll look great just about
anywhere. The 38mm and 43mm case sizes
also ensure there’s a C60 for every wrist size.

christopherward.co.uk
SMART TRAVELLER
What’s new // Do it now // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Penang, Malaysia
Every year in January or February, depending
on the moon, millions of Tamil Hindus in
Malaysia (and other countries where there are
large Tamil communities) gather to celebrate
the colourful festival of Thaipusam, where
devotees pierce their cheeks with long metal
needles and hang small pails of milk from
hooks in their skin. As part of a project to
capture the participants’ portraits, I visited the
Nattukottai Chettiar Temple in Penang ahead
of the festivities. Here I met the enigmatic stare
of Veil Murugan, one of the temple’s priests.
His name comes from both the very needles
the devotees drive through their cheeks and
Murugan, the Hindu god of war.
MATT BRANDON // PHOTOGRAPHER

thedigitaltrekker.com
thedigitaltrekker
@mattbrandon

May 2018 15
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white-sanded beach overlooking an endless turquoise sea. This all-villa resort is ideal for both
couples and families and celebrates the charismatic way of genuine Maldivian island life.

Opening in April 2018, book your stress-free stay under:

sirrufenfushi.com
 EDS’ PICKS// SMART TRAVELLER

TOP 3

ining in Refshaleøen
A former industrial island is reinventing itself by bringing back
Copenhagen’s favourite places to eat

1 NOMA 2.0: Guess who’s back. Back again. Noma’s back. Tell
a friend. (René Redzepi returns after a year away.) noma.dk
2 REFFEN: Copenhagen Street Food hasn’t just got a new
name, it’s now three times the size. Reffen, the all-new street
food hub, opens in May with up to 50 food stalls. reffen.dk
3 ALCHEMIST: Offering a new 45-course immersive tasting
menu experience in the Danish Royal Theatre’s former set
workshop. restaurant-alchemist.dk JOSEPHINE PRICE

Editos' icks
We’ve been here and we’ve been there, and our team
have found a few things we thought we’d share
FAMOUS HIKES BY
NUMBER OF STEPS
7,000
STEP UP

to the top of Table Mountain, Cape

Town, South Africa

68,000
from the USA to Canada, via the
National Geographic THE GIGS WE’RE GOING TO THIS 33-mile Chilkoot Trail that takes in
Expeditions MONTH IN LONDON Alaska and Yukon

If you’ve long fancied yourself as
a bit of an explorer, then listen up.
National Geographic Expeditions
has just launched in the UK,
bringing far-flung destinations
closer to budding adventurers
to offer true trips of a lifetime.
nationalgeographicexpeditions.
co.uk CONNOR MCGOVERN
168,000
Max Richter, 11 May, Barbican
Hall // SARAH BARRELL
Russian Circles, 16 May, Oval along the whole of Hadrian’s Wall Path,
Space // ZANE HENRY from coast to coast, England
Les Amazones d’Afrique, 27
May, Southbank Centre //
JOSEPHINE PRICE
210,000
on the Tour du Mont Blanc crossing
Femi Kuti, 30 May, Islington France, Italy and Switzerland
Source: flashpack.com/how-many-steps
Assembly Hall // TAMSIN WRESSELL
MARIA PIERI

WORLD’S
LONGEST ZIP-LINE
Jebel Jais Mountain in
Ras Al Khaimah is the world’s
longest (1.75 miles) and fastest
(93mph) zip-line. Participants
IMAGES: JASON LOUCAS; GETTY; OLLIE HARROP

lie face down while dangling a

mile above sea level. Do you
dare to look down?
ZANE HENRY
Mural-by-the-Sea
WHAT: A 12-month programme of large-scale billboard
murals. The current mural draws attention to how we
dispose of plastic and is on display until 21 May.
WHERE: Dreamland Margate amusement park.
TELL ME MORE: Daniel Webb, the artist behind Everyday
Plastic, didn’t throw away any plastic for a year to
create his mural, which aims to raise awareness of
pollution problems. dreamland.co.uk TAMSIN WRESSELL

May 2018 17
SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Innerdalen, Norway
A few hours’ drive from Trondheim is the little-known
valley of Innerdalen. The valley is known by many as
Norway’s most beautiful, with the pyramidal peak of
Innerdalstårnet towering over a glacial lake. The nearest
car park is about an hour’s walk away, so the valley has
remained relatively unchanged from its rural past. At its
heart is the farm of Renndølestr: although still a working
farm, its friendly owner Eystein Opdøl has grass-roofed
bunkhouses and a picturesque campsite, both of which
open their doors to weary hikers during the summer
months. Eystein’s family has lived and farmed here for
generations — his grandfather was among the first to
recognise the importance of preserving the surroundings
as well as the traditional way of life on the farm.
DANIEL ALFORD // PHOTOGRAPHER

danielalford.co.uk
@danielalford_

18 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SMART TRAVELLER

May 2018 19
SMART TRAVELLER // WHAT’S NEW

SYDNEY OPENINGS

Neighbourhood
digs Paramount House Hotel
has put former rag trade
hood Surry Hills firmly
into the spotlight

HAPPENING SURRY HILLS

A once gritty industrial hood, Surry Hills has been
determinedly making its way into the Sydney spotlight EAT: CHIN CHIN DO: PRINCE ALFRED
over the past decade. With the arrival of Paramount Still riding the wave of PARK POOL
House Hotel, it’s fi nally ready for its close-up. This new energy from its opening at This 165ft outdoor pool
boutique opening, by Melbourne architects Breathe, the end of 2017, be prepared is heated for those chilly
sits proudly astride two newly connected buildings, for the inevitable queues, winter mornings and has
its lobby set inside the former Australian HQ for and explosive Thai flavours. plenty of green space to
Paramount Picture Studios. The fi rst accommodation chinchinrestaurant.com.au/ lounge around post-swim.
offering by the team behind such Surry Hills hot sydney princealfred.org
hangouts as Reuben Hills micro roastery and
Paramount Coffee Project, the hotel will rank as a must- WATCH: GOLDEN AGE DRINK: TOKYO BIRD
visit for locals and tourists alike. CINEMA AND BAR Tokyo Bird nods to
Set on the upper floors of the functionalist Head downstairs at Japanese bar culture and
Paramount House, the 29-room hotel comes with a Paramount House for an offers an impressive whisky
lively lobby cafe where fresh farm produce can be excellent range of films, plus collection — and seasonal
picked up as part of The Locals Market initiative on live music in the cosy bar, cocktail list. Wolf some
Saturday mornings. Paramount Recreation and cocktails inspired by yakitori, wash it down with
Club’s fitness classes are held on the roof, the programme of movies. a sake, and watch the world
and Poly — a new dining experience SEMI-PERMANENT:
ourgoldenage.com.au go by. tokyobird.com.au
from the team behind feted Sydney 24–26 MAY
restaurant Ester — opens this As part of the Vivid Ideas
year. Most rooms have a terrace programme, this creative festival
overlooking the leafy streets below, explores visual innovation. Highlights
once a den of rag trade iniquity, now include panel discussions on the
future of culture, and talks from
somewhere that designer rags are de
leading design figures at
rigueur for the denizens of Surry’s
Pentagram and Airbnb.
design shops and buzzing wine bars. semipermanent.com
paramounthousehotel.com
EMMA HOLLAND
IMAGES: PIERRE TOUSSAINT; STEVE WOODBURN; CLAVELL LEE

NEW SYDNEY HOTELS

MRS BANKS: Staying here in Paddington is like taking a step
back in time. The 1914 former bank has held on to its striking art
deco-style facade and original brickwork. mrsbankshotel.com

SPICERS POTTS POINT: This 20-room hotel in the inner-city

suburb of Potts Point serves up complimentary cocktails and
canapes each evening. spicersretreats.com/spicers-potts-point

SOFITEL DARLING HARBOUR: When it opened late last year,

it was the first new-build five-star hotel to open in almost 20
years. There’s an infinity pool with cracking views across the
city skyline, too. sofitelsydneydarlingharbour.com.au

20 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Leipzig
creative hotspot
More than 25 years after the German Reunification, Leipzig is one of the most dynamic cities
in Europe, with the fastest-growing population in Germany. According to Mashable, the world‘s
largest independent news website for the connected generation, Leipzig is the no. 1 global
© Nils Petersen
destination for yuccies – short for: young urban creatives. The former industrial district
Plagwitz has become the main headquarters for innovative start-ups and designers, packed
with galleries and quirky cultural spaces like Spinnerei, Kunstkraftwerk or Tapetenwerk.
© europafoto Klinger

© Nils Petersen

Schneider
© Wolfgang

Kunstkraftwerk Spinnerei Tapetenwerk

www.leipzig.travel
 WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

Kew Gardens
RAISE A GLASS
Kew Gardens’ largest ever restoration IN NUMBERS A BOTANIC BET
project comes to its five-year RESTORATION It’s become the done
conclusion this month thing for botanical

Kew’s heart of glass has been under wraps for five years.
69,000 gardens to augment
their natural beauty with
monumental works of
individual elements removed from
Tent structures large enough to cover three Boeing 747s, Temperate House to be cleaned, architecture, sculpture
and enough scaffolding to run the length of the M25 were repaired or replaced and art. Here are three to
employed to carry out the intricate all-weather work see this summer
to breathe new life into the vast Victorian greenhouse
centrepiece of London’s Royal Botanic Gardens. 15,000
panes of glass replaced
SEATTLE — CHIHULY
During the restoration, over 500 plants were taken out GARDENS AND GLASS
of Temperate House, installed in a temporary nursery Dale Chihuly’s garden
behind the scenes at Kew’s sprawling Thames-side
gardens. The mammoth job of replanting started in 1,731
days to complete the restoration
home in Seattle is
a great place to see
September last year and will continue up to the last- this esteemed glass
minute on 5 May when the greenhouse opens again, now sculptor’s work, which
home to some 10,000 of the rarest plants from temperate
regions in Africa, Australia, New Zealand, the Americas, £15m
funding from the National Lottery
has graced gardens
around the world.
Asia and the Pacific Islands. kew.org SARAH BARRELL chihulygardenandglass.
com

NEW YORK — GEORGIA

O’KEEFFE: VISIONS OF
HAWAI’I
An exhibition of the
American artist’s little-
known depictions of
the Hawaiian Islands.
19 May — 28 October.
nybg.org
BOOK IT NOW
Can’t make it to Kew? You
MONTREAL — FRANCIS
can learn about some of its
HALLÉ: A BOTANIST’S
most treasured flora in a new book
IMAGES: ALAMY; KEW GARDENS

by Kew’s ‘plant hunter’ — The Plant JOURNAL

Messiah: Adventures in Search Follow an art trail
of the World’s Rarest Species uncovering the world
by Carlos Magdalena. RRP: wanderings and
£16.99 (Viking Press) botanical drawings of
botanist Francis Hallé.
24 June — 20 October.
espacepourlavie.ca

May 2018 23
 Enjoy summer
a bit closer
to the sky
This is THE OMNIA

THE OMNIA, Zermatt – Switzerland, Phone +41 27 966 71 71, www.the-omnia.com

 WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

Literary locations
BY THE BOOK
From spending the night in an icon’s
home to rare first editions on display,
there’s a slew of new inspiration for
literature lovers

DES RES?
221B Baker Street’s not
a bad address to have, but
Byron in Greece, Hemingway in Spain, Gauguin in Tahiti — it the secretaries of a building
seems some of the greatest creative minds had wanderlust, society (that occupied the plot for
too. As did literary legend F Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, 70 years) who answered all the
Zelda, who spent much of the Jazz Age jetting around the letters to Sherlock Holmes
might have said
world. But where many of their former abodes have remained
otherwise
private homes, one of their ‘stops’ bucked the trend. In a
leafy suburb of Montgomery, Alabama, 919 Felder Avenue
became The Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald Museum, the world’s
only museum dedicated to the couple. Packed with personal
paraphernalia, their former (and final) home recounts their
lives and legacy. From June this year, you’ll be able to bed
down in the very house where Fitzgerald wrote parts of
Tender is the Night. Check in — you might check out inspired.
thefitzgeraldmuseum.org CONNOR MCGOVERN

THREE MORE

For further reading...

IMAGES: GETTY; THE FITZGERALD MUSEUM

DUBLIN KEY WEST OXFORD

The Irish capital is adding
another string to its cultural
bow in 2019. The Museum of
Literature Ireland will showcase
a diverse range of exhibitions
and artefacts that pay homage
to the country’s illustrious library
of literary works. moli.ie
Head south for the newly
opened Tennessee Williams
Museum — the writer lived here
for almost 40 years. The museum
houses the world’s largest
collection of Williams-related
memorabilia, from photos to
original scripts. kwahs.org
Weave your way around the
City of Dreaming Spires on
a Lyra-themed tour, based
on Philip Pullman’s His Dark
Materials trilogy. You’ll admire
timeless, honey-hued colleges
and the Botanic Garden.
experienceoxfordshire.org

May 2018 25
SMART TRAVELLER // DO IT NOW

DIVE & CRUISE

Under
the sea
Grab your snorkel and fins; whether EYE SPY...
you want to dive with a shark or
a celebrity, make this the year HAWKSBILL SEA TURTLES, WHALE
SHARKS AND WRECKS:
to hop on a liveaboard boat St Helena in the South Atlantic
from December and March
HAMMERHEAD, TIGER AND
For die-hard divers looking to explore WHITETIP SHARKS:
remote destinations or take in as many The Bahamas in May
dive sites as possible, the best option is WHALE SHARKS AND MANTA RAYS:
a liveaboard where you can dive from The Galápagos from August and
the deck three or four times a day. October
This year’s most talked about WRECKS AND SHARKS:
destination, according to Dive Worldwide Palau, Indonesia, in November
and Original Diving, is Socorro, an ocean diveworldwide.com
region near the southwestern coast of Mexico,
accessible only by boat. Designated the
largest marine reserve in North America late
last year, it’s the place to spot whale sharks,
humpback whales, manta rays, bottlenose
dolphins and up to 10 species of shark. SOME LIKE IT COLD... SOME LIKE IT HOT...
IMAGES: ANDREY ARMYAGOV / PICFAIR; ALAMY; AURORAEXPEDITIONS

Other operators, such as Steppes, are -2C to 2C 27C-28C

offering liveaboards with experts onboard. Watch penguins and walrus, and Whale sharks and manta rays can be
In November/December, its guests can sail see kelp forests, crustaceans and seen all year round in the warm waters
around Indonesia’s Raja Ampat Islands and starfish by polar diving in the Arctic surrounding the Maldives. Carpe
dive up to four times a day in the company of and Antarctic waters. Divers have Diem has three liveaboards plus a
Doug Allan — the cameraman behind David to complete the PADI Polar Diver new beach resort and spa due to open
Attenborough’s Blue Planet and Planet Earth. Specialty Course or can simply choose summer 2018 in the Raa Atoll.
Allan will help divers hone their underwater to snorkel. auroraexpeditions.co.uk carpediembeachresort.com
photography skills, swim alongside whale
sharks and explore Second World War wrecks.
And while many liveaboards are
basic, there’s a growing choice of luxury
liveaboards offering other activities, too. In
the Maldives, Scubaspa’s luxurious yachts
Ying and Yang dedicate the top two decks to
a spa with treatment rooms and yoga classes,
while Carpe Diem’s liveaboards also offer
surfing and paddleboarding. SAM LEWIS

26 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Discover and enjoy the ultimate
Maldives beach holiday experience
with the new all-inclusive
White Platinum Plan

Haa Alifu Atoll, Maldives

Tel: (+960) 650 1515
Fax: (+960) 650 1616
info@hideawaybeachmaldives.com
www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
 FOOD // SMART TRAVELLER

CLASSIC CUISINE

For Burgundy snails, steak frites

 taste of
and other French classics, try these
Parisian bonnes addresses.
LE TRAIN BLEU: Opulent Gare de Lyon
must-dine. le-train-bleu.com

PARIS
LA FONTAINE DE MARS: Trusted bistro
just a stroll from the Eiffel Tower.
fontainedemars.com
CAFÉ TRAMA: The Left Bank locals’
top spot for croque monsieur.
83 rue du Cherche-Midi

Out with fussy dining,

in with flavour: from
Israeli cuisine to
reimagined French
classics, Paris is now a
go-to for the adventurous
foodie traveller

NEW WORLD ORDERS

SPOON 2: Alain Ducasse takes his inspiration
from all over the world with dishes from
Brazil to Indonesia and numerous places in
between, all keenly priced for the less affluent
globetrotter (mains from €22/£20).
spoon-restaurant.com
BALAGAN: This Israeli restaurant is currently
the hottest table in town, with a great team led
by chefs Assaf Granit and Dan Yosha, offering a
decadent mix of small dishes (from €13/£12) in
which fresh vegetables, tahini and spices take
centre stage. The staff ’s energy is infectious
lain ucasse
and a seat at the counter table offers as much For all his multiple Michelin-
entertainment as it does flavour. star accolades, the Ducasse
balagan-paris.com
empire also includes more
IMAGES: PMONETTA; KAREL BALAS

GRANDS BOULEVARDS: Rome-born chef Giovanni

Passerini remains a little closer to home with
his Italian-French menu celebrating country
cooking, peppered with fresh, exciting flavours.
This new hotel and restaurant is also the latest
Parisian outpost for London’s Experimental
Cocktail Club, and comes with an opulent
bar and suitably inventive cocktail menu.
grandsboulevardshotel.com CAROLYN BOYD
CAROLYN BOYD
is a food & travel writer affordable options: try Le Jules
specialising in France and Verne, on the Eiffel Tower,
is author of France: From the
Source (RRP: £19.99, Lonely Restaurant Champeaux at
Planet), which features
recipes and travel
Les Halles, or Aux Lyonnais, a
stories. Parisian version of the historic
Bouchon restaurants of Lyon

May 2018 29
ADUL T S O N LY P A R A D ISE
www.hurawalhi.com

O PEN IN G M ID 2 018
www.kudadoo.com
 ON THE TRAIL // SMART TRAVELLER

STREET
FOOD
WALK Jaipur
The rose-hued city is best known for its romantic
architecture and buzzing markets, but don’t miss
out on the streetside walas selling swathes of
snacks. Words: Josephine Price

1 PANDIT KULFI
Kulfi is to India what gelato is to Italy.
Swing by the longest-running seller
in town to try the famed sweet treat
speckled with pistachio and rose
petals, and infused with saffron and
cardamom. They’re served on sticks
like nostalgia-inducing Mini Milks.

2 JAGANNATH SHARMA PAKODI WALE

At this roadside stall in the city
centre, vegetables, chillies, onions
and potatoes are cloaked in chickpea
powder and flung into the bubbling
pan. The deep-fried snacks are piled
at the feet of a cross-legged vendor
— get them when they’re hot.

3 LASSI WALA
A lassi works as a perfect
breakfast or simply an antidote
to a misjudged spice overload. Go
for the sweet lassi here, served in
kulhars (biodegradable ceramic
pots) made by rural villagers.
There’s not a plastic cup in sight.

4 SHARMA CHAT CORNER

Join the crowds here, where
chickpea curry is piled upon a
potato patty, doused in tamarind
sauce and served in a banana leaf
bowl. This spicy, fragrant hot mess
is the most popular snack in India
— it’s utterly addictive.

5 NARAYAN GAJAK WALE

This stall is so popular that the
family behind it only need to work
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE

for six months of the year. Stop

by for dried fruits, nuts, sweets
or chikki — an addictive peanut
brittle glued together with super-
sweet jaggery.

eatwith.com/events/4614

May 2018 31
SMART TRAVELLER // ROOMS
WHERE TO STAY
Johannesburg
Sometimes overlooked in favour of its
supermodel sister Cape Town, Jo’burg is the
cosmopolitan heart of South Africa
1 HALLMARK HOUSE
Opened late last year, Hallmark House is a
game-changer for Johannesburg on several
levels. The concept, first of all — it’s a
mixed-use development, with hotel rooms
scattered amid apartments, a coffee shop and
restaurant, and more outlets are set to open on
the ground floor. Then, its credentials — the
building was designed by renowned Ghanaian-
British architect Sir David Adjaye OBE,
who’s even bought an apartment here. Most
important is the location — on the far edge of
Maboneng, the blossoming hipster enclave
in the formerly gritty city centre, far from the
modern suburbs where most smart hotels are
located. This is the new Johannesburg. Rooms
are beautifully put together, with traditionally
patterned wallpaper, wraparound floor-to-
ceiling windows and balconies overlooking
landmarks such as the Ponte City skyscraper
and the Emirates Airline Park stadium. There’s
also a jazz bar next door and a handy daytime
shuttle bus runs to central Maboneng. Doubles
from £51, room only. hallmarkhouse.co.za
JULIA BUCKLEY
32 natgeotraveller.co.uk
2 THE PEECH
An idyllic hotel with a small pool,
quiet gardens and resident cat. Three
two-storey blocks line the one-acre
garden of a 1950s house (now the main
building and restaurant). An extension
on a neighbouring plot of land will add
14 rooms by December. Doubles from
£137, room only. thepeech.co.za
3 HOUSE HIGGO
This self-styled ‘boutique guesthouse’
is a conversion of a grand former
residence, with an open-plan dining-
living room, terrace and seven rooms.
There’s a hot tub, pool and cooked
breakfast each morning. It’s slightly out
of the way, so budget for taxis. Doubles
from £85, B&B. househiggo.co.za
4 SATYAGRAHA HOUSE
This is where Mahatma Gandhi lived
during his stay in Johannesburg, from
1908-1909. Today, it’s a museum with
lodgings on the side. Seven rooms are
split between the house, a later cottage
and a modern wing. Doubles from £168,
B&B. satyagrahahouse.com
SMART TRAVELLER // FAMILY

380,000
The average
amount of
people who go
boating each
year in the UK,
with numbers
on the up, and
doubling since
2005 (source:
CANAL ADVENTURES British Marine)

�n the waterways
Looking for a different family adventure this
year? Here are our top 10 reasons why canal boat
cruising ticks all the boxes

1. Scene by scene 7. There’s options

Making eye contact with swans, bouncing
echoes against tunnel walls, watching the
water slosh through locks, discovering new
places every day, having a go at steering the
boat — canal boats are just plain fun.
2. All access
There’s no lower age limit. It’s probably a
good idea, however, to have an extra adult
onboard to take care of a very young child if
two people are working the locks.
There are routes that pass through major
cities like Birmingham, Leeds or Manchester,
but if you prefer peaceful surroundings,
there’s a huge choice of rural waterways.
8. Banks don’t break
A family of four can expect a short break to
cost between £500-£700 and for a week-
long cruise, between £700-£1,000. During
the summer holidays, a family of four are
looking at a cost of £1,200-£1,800. NARROWBOAT KNOW-HOW

3. Daytripping 9. Hustle & bustle DO I NEED PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE?

You can try it for just a day to see how you
like it before committing to a longer trip.
Many boat companies offer day hire.
4. Change of scenery
Your view changes moment to moment. You
could be admiring a picture-perfect pastoral
view one minute, and a bustling town and
marina the next.
The Oxford Canal is the Canal Nope — full training is given upon
Trust’s busiest canal. Built more arrival, before departure
than 200 years ago, it winds
peacefully through the HOW MANY PEOPLE CAN A
Oxfordshire countryside BOAT ACCOMMODATE?
from the centre of Oxford Narrowboats sleep up to 12 people
to the three spires of
Coventry (UK Capital of WHAT ABOUT THE FACILITIES?
Culture 2021). Bathrooms on-board will contain
a toilet, shower and sink
IMAGES: WATERWAYS HOLIDAYS; ALAMY; GETTY

5. Active for everyone 10. Good times

Many canals offer opportunities for Pocklington Canal in Yorkshire HOW FAST DOES A BOAT GO?
activities such as canoeing, paddleboarding, is celebrating its 200th Top speed is 4mph, but it’s polite
self-guided walks, cycle hire, and exploring anniversary with events to slow down a bit when passing
waterside inns, restaurants and cafes. and activities throughout moored boats
the summer. Artworks,
6. All together now literature, music and DO WE NEED INSURANCE?
You can take the extended family along on performance will Boats are always covered
your watery adventure. Even the dog. Travel spring up across 21 for accidental damage
with all your essentials, stay switched on miles of waterway. and full public and
with wi-fi and enjoy a comfortable, multi- canalrivertrust.org.uk third-party liability.
gen adventure all in one. MARIA PIERI waterwaysholidays.com

34 natgeotraveller.co.uk

Designed by Silversea destination experts,
these exclusive, bespoke land experiences
grant unprecedented access to the world’s
most remote destinations in luxury before
or after your cruise.
DEEPER ON L AND
TSEDENG, TIBET / PHOTO: ANDREA FRAZZETTA FOR SILVERSEA
Discover our cruises and collection of UNPRECEDENTED land experiences.
For more information please call 0207 340 0700,
visit: silverseacouture.com or contact your travel agent.
 TOP 5 // SMART TRAVELLER

FIVE TO TRY

y Palma
Let the Majorcan capital’s most lauded chef
take you on a tasty tour of the city — from
MARC FOSH
is one of Europe’s most
exciting culinary talents,
and became the only British
chef to win a Michelin star
in Spain, where he’s worked
since 1991. His eponymous
restaurant is in Hotel
Convent de la Missió in the
freshly baked cakes to wine with the locals heart of Palma. marcfosh.com

LA ROSA VERMUTERÍA
This spot is exactly what you want from a
tapas bar. It’s always noisy, packed to the
rafters, and has a great atmosphere. The food
is simple, classic tapas. Go for the made-to-
order tortilla Española, the Galician-style
octopus or Iberian ham with a glass of
Albariño wine and you can’t go wrong.
facebook.com/larosavermuteria

ROSEVELVET BAKERY XURRERIA ROSALEDA MERCAT DE L’OLIVAR SA ROQUETA

When it comes to breakfast, Dunking churros into delicious, I feel blessed that the amazing If you’re looking to splash out
I love the Rosevelvet Bakery. thick hot chocolate has become Mercat de l’Olivar is just around on some seriously good seafood,
It’s run by a young couple who part of Spain’s social fabric over the corner from us. The market head to Sa Roqueta, a simple
IMAGES: LA ROSA VERMUTERÍA

are passionate about serving
the best coffee in town, and
the tempting aromas of their
homemade pastries and cakes
always manage to drag me
in when I’m walking past on
my way to do some shopping.
facebook.com/rosevelvetbakery
the years. If you want to see a
true cross section of Spanish
society, spend a few hours here.
During public holidays, the
queue stretches around the
corner. Go between 5pm and
6pm for a typical Spanish treat.
T: 00 34 971 710 326.
is always worth a visit to see all
the wonderful, fresh produce.
The fish section never ceases to
amaze me — there’s also an oyster
bar where you can enjoy a glass of
Champagne and sample some of
the incredibly fresh seafood on
offer. mercatolivar.com
Spanish restaurant tucked away
on a quiet little street next to
Portixol harbour. It’s famous for
its fresh fish, lobster and prawns,
all of which are caught locally
and treated with the utmost
respect — simply grilled.
restaurantesaroqueta.com

May 2018 37
Immerse yourself in the beauty of
The Islands of The Seychelles

Seychelles Tourist Office - UK & Ireland · Ground Floor, 130-132 Buckingham Palace Road SW1W 9SA
Tel: +44 (0) 207 730 0700 · seychelles@uksto.co.uk · www.seychelles.travel
Image: © Torsten Dickmann

STAY AT HOME
West Highlands
Life around the lochs in this remote corner of Scotland
involves soul-stirring landscapes, fresh produce and
some of the finest cockle-warming whisky around
We like
A dram of Scotch, sipped at the
source. Oban Distillery, which
is one of Scotland’s oldest and
smallest, has been making the
caramel-coloured elixir since
1794. Book a tour to learn about
whisky making and Oban’s
unique terroir, which imparts
salt, orange peel, honey and a
peaty smokiness to its 14-year-
old single malt; I tasted it with
crystallised ginger — a winning
combination. malts.com
What to do
Skim the surface of the lochs
for a new perspective on this
watery wonderland. Under
the tutelage of Tony from
IMAGES: AIRDS; DENNIS HARDLEY; TONY HAMMOCK
Seafreedom Kayak, try a
six-mile loop of Loch Creran,
crowned by snow-covered
peaks. As you cut across the
expansive waters, curious
seals will often follow in your
wake. Other routes include
one around the castaway 13th-
century Castle Stalker — you
may recognise it from Monty
Python and the Holy Grail.
seafreedomkayak.co.uk
Why go
To seek the sublime
— mountains rise above
fjord-like lochs that carve
out emerald islands. This
top-notch topography
influences everything
here from the activities
(mountain climbing, scuba
diving) to the kitchen table
(local langoustines, Highland
beef, foraged ’shrooms).
Even the whisky has notes
of sea salt. visitscotland.com
UK // SMART TRAVELLER
DON’T MISS
The limestone Isle of Lismore
— hop in a rugged 4x4 with
Robert from Explore Lismore for
a whistle-stop tour of the island’s
brochs (fortified farms), rare
plants, castles and parish church,
once a major monastic centre. A
sweet stop involves coffee with
raspberry and almond cakes from
The Dutch Bakery on Lismore,
run by Robert’s partner Iris out of
a red telephone box. Blockbuster
views, meanwhile, stretch to Ben
Nevis. “That’s what’s special,”
Robert says. “When you’re on
Lismore, you’re looking out at
Scotland.” explorelismore.co.uk
WHERE TO EAT
Pull up a pew at Michelin-recommended Aird’s
restaurant for dishes like Inverawe smoked
salmon with crispy avocado. Chef Chris Stanley
focuses on fresh ingredients and plenty of plates
to amuse your bouche. “It should be something
that you can’t do at home,” Chris tells me. The
Creagan Inn is another good option, dishing up
hearty pub grub, local brews and stunning loch
views. airds-hotel.com creaganinn.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
Checking in to Airds Hotel feels like attending a
shindig at a well-to-do pal’s country house. My
first port of call was a glass of red in the lounge: a
cosy corner with stacks of books, a popping fire
and mounted stag head. There are 11 rooms and
suites; mine had a marble-backed tub, a decanter
of whisky mac and Loch Linnhe views. But the
piece de resistance was the restaurant’s inventive
dishes. airds-hotel.com STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO
May 2018 39
IN THE CENTER OF LAKE COMO
AMONG VILLAS AND GARDENS

THE BLOSSOMING GARDENS THE VILLA ON THE LAKE TWO RESTAURANTS

The hotel is surrounded by a 20000 square A fascinating hotel on the shore of the lake. One Michelin star for the elegant Mistral.
meters’ flower garden. Private pier. Fitness center and SPA. Italian gourmet cuisine at La Goletta.

B ellagio, the pearl of Lake Como. Here, on the lakeshore, stands the great nineteenth century villa of the
Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. Beach and private pier, open-air and indoor swimming pools, two world
class restaurants and a luxurious SPA and Fitness Center, the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is an oasis of beauty
dedicated to the quality of life among the most beautiful gardens of Lake Como.

OUR FIRST 100 YEARS

In 2018 the Bucher Familiy
is celebrating 100 years
at Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni Owned by the Bucher family
22021 Bellagio - Lake Como - Italy - Phone +39.031.950.216
www.villaserbelloni.com - inforequest@villaserbelloni.com

AROUND
THE WORLD
IN 80 TREES
From India’s sacred banyan to the
perfumed cedars of Lebanon, take an
illustrated tour of the world, with trees
that define each destination’s history,
spiritual life and folklore legend
ILLUSTRATIONS: LUCILLE CLERC TAKEN FROM AROUND
Printed on FSC-approved,
sustainably sourced paper, this is
THE WORLD IN 80 TREES BY JONATHAN DRORI
the latest labour of leafy love from
Jonathan Drori CBE (Eden Project
trustee, WWF ambassador and
former commissioner of countless
BBC TV series on science and
nature). It’s an erudite read that
employs plant science to illuminate
how trees play a key role in every
part of human life; as a provider of
food, a source of poison, a maker of
medicines and building materials.
With at least 60,000 distinct species,
Drori has done a monumental job
of pruning to focus mainly
on those trees that tell a
story about each
of the 180
BOOKSHELF // SMART TRAVELLER
WATER WORDS
GALÁPAGOS
This extensive
study of the
Galápagos is a
work of self-
publishing art by
photographer
Josef Litt. RRP £29.90
(mostlyunderwaterbooks.com)
LAKES: A
VERY SHORT
destinations featured, INTRODUCTION
augmented by luscious A fast-track insight
botanical illustrations by French into lakes, from
illustrator Lucille Clerc. how they’re formed
It makes for colourful to a hit list of
armchair travelling, too. In ‘extreme lakes’ in unusual places.
Egypt, for example, we learn Packed with facts but not (ahem) a
that the date palm, subject dry read. RRP: £7.99 (OUP)
of 3,000-year-old Hebrew
literature, Assyrian bas-reliefs
and Egyptian papyri, is also a OVER THE TOP
time traveller. Date stones found Author-yachtsman
at a ruined Dead Sea fortress, Adrian Flanagan
carbon-dated as around 2,000 years old, recounts his solo
have been successfully germinated. round-the-world
Meanwhile, in Ghana, we follow the kola sailing trip — he’s
nut’s journey from its slave trade origins to the only person
its export to the USA, where it became a key to have managed such a journey
ingredient in Coca-Cola. vertically, rather than horizontally.
In Iran, the much-eulogised pomegranate RRP: £10.99 (Adlard Coles)
is more than just another superfood. It
truly shapes the landscape; from groves of
its scarlet and crimson-flowered trees, to CATCHING
markets nationwide stacked with the rosy THUNDER
fruits. Its gem-like seeds are scattered on The gripping story
everything from ice cream to rice, or reduced of the 1,000-mile,
to a dark-brown molasses and added to 100-day race
savoury dishes. And as for the most widely by Norwegian
travelled tree? Perhaps it’s the jacaranda, investigative
a purple-flowering species so pretty it’s journalists to catch the illegal
migrated from its native home in Argentina fishing ship, Thunder. A clarion call
to decorate the streets of temperate-climate for those who want to save our
destinations worldwide. SARAH BARRELL seas. RRP: £12.99 (Zed Books)
May 2018 41
 in
SPECIAL PROMOTION

WIN A THREE-
NIGHT BREAK
TO CORSICA
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has partnered
The prize
with Air Corsica to offer a three-night break for One winner and a guest will receive return tickets from
two at eco-luxury retreat Hotel Misincu London Stansted to Bastia with Air Corsica and three
nights at the eco-luxury retreat, Hotel Misincu. Staying
in a classic room with sea view and breakfast included,
Flying high Where to stay guests can set out on the hiking paths that snake around
For the first time, Air Corsica Within 70 acres of rugged the hotel’s grounds, bask in the turquoise waters off
will operate flights from the UK landscape on the enchanting Cap Misincu beach, or get active with wakeboarding and
to the French island this year, Corse peninsula stands Hotel glass-bottom kayaking — both included in the stay.
with nine flights a week from Misincu — a 29-bedroom eco-
London Stansted to Ajaccio, luxury retreat. Two restaurants
Bastia and Figari. Flights begin offer a taste of authentic TO ENTER
on 3 May, starting at less than Corsican fare, while the garden
£50 each way. With a generous spa’s four treatment rooms, and Answer the following question online at
23kg hold baggage allowance, seat outdoor yoga are perfect for natgeotraveller.co.uk/competitions
allocation, refreshments and an unwinding. Activities include
easy booking policy (bookings hiking on the surrounding trails WHAT’S THE NAME OF THE PENINSULA ON WHICH HOTEL
can be changed for the same type or setting out on the hotel’s own MISINCU IS LOCATED?
of reservation), there’s no easier boat to explore the hidden coves Competition closes 31 May 2018 at 23.59 (GMT). The winner must be
way to reach this beautiful island. dotted along Cap Corse. aged 18 or over and the trip is subject to availability. Full T&Cs
aircorsica.com hotel-misincu.com available at natgeotraveller.co.uk

May 2018 43
TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION 2018

Tael Witing Compeition 2018

DO YOU WANT TO WRITE FOR
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER?
If you think you’ve got what it takes, enter our annual Travel Writing
Competition. Your work could appear in National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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This two-week Thailand Hike, Bike include cycling around Bangkok, as
and Kayak Adventure will give you well as in and around the cities of
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on the destination. Join a small overnight stay in a raft house, and
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and transport taken care of, this trip
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44 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 EVENTS // SMART TRAVELLER

E e n ts
THE PANEL

8
2 0 1
PAUL CHRISTIE
CEO, Walk Japan

KYLIE CLARK
Japan House

24
APRIL

TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR

OLIVER HILTON-JOHNSON
Sake specialist

Japan
Whether you’re a Nippon novice or a fully fledged
TIME: 18:00-
19:00
WILLIAM MACKESY
Walkopedia

Japanophile, then we’ve got just the event for you WHERE: Wallacepsace
Covent Garden, 2 Dryden
From the snowscapes of Hokkaido in the north to its Street, London WC2E 9NA
southernmost tropical archipelagos, Japan’s islands TICKETS: £10 — includes a
Moderated by
reward the intrepid traveller. Ancient, intricate traditions free glass of wine or FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
soft drink, plus nibbles
hold up against relentless innovation; sacred, historic
forests foil the superlative skylines of Tokyo and Osaka. Don’t miss out!
It’s a land of old and new, urban and rural, faraway and If you’re ready to
familiar that’s long captured travellers’ imaginations. make travel writing
In this event, in association with Walk Japan, our panel or photographyyour
share their top tips and stories, and offer the answers to new career, we’ve got
all your Japan-related queries: from when to go, where to SPONSORED BY just the thing for you.
stay, and how to get the most out of this famously unique Find out about The
and fascinating culture. natgeotraveller.co.uk/events Masterclasses on p.12

TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR TRAVEL GEEKS: RUSH HOUR

5 JUNE 2018
Family adventures*
The thought of climbing anything with kids in tow
is stress-inducing — but that’s where our expert
panel comes in. They’ll be on hand to answer all
your family adventure queries, from where to find
the best hikes, to when and where to visit.
WHERE: Wallacespace Covent Garden, 2 Dryden
IMAGES: GETTY
12 SEPTEMBER 2018
Solo travel*
Daunted by the prospect of travelling alone? Or
are you a first-timer and don’t know where to
start? Come to our session on all things solo
— looking at where to go and how to meet
people once you’re there — and get planning.
WHERE: Wallacespace Covent Garden, 2 Dryden

Street, London WC2E 9NA Street, London WC2E 9NA

TIME: 18.00–19.00 TIME: 18.00–19.00
PRICE: £10 (includes nibbles and a drink) PRICE: £10 (includes nibbles and a drink)
*Topic subject to change *Topic subject to change

May 2018 45
GRAND HOTEL DE LA MINERVE
THE WELCOMING OF TIMELESS LUXURY
The Grand Hotel de la Minerve is located in the very heart of Rome: a few metres from the Pantheon and
walking distance to all important sights which ‘must be visited’ once in Rome such as Navona Square, Spanish
steps and to the most popular shopping areas and restaurants: the best location to experience a real Roman
stay! The 135 elegant rooms, many with wonderful views of Rome, have a size above the average city centre
standards. To top it all the hotel features a stunning roof top restaurant from which guests can enjoy one of the
best panoramic view of the eternal city while having breakfast, lunch or dinner all year round.

Piazza della Minerva, 69

00186 Roma

Tel. +39 06 695201 - Fax. +39 06 6794165

Email: info@grandhoteldelaminerve.com
www.grandhoteldelaminerve.com
www.minervaroofgarden.it

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // NINA CAPLAN
While the Italian capital may not be renowned for its wine, there are routes
connecting the city’s viticulture to its ancient heritage
N
obody comes to Rome for the wine.
They may have done, once: Vigna
Stelluti and Vigna Clara are northern
suburbs but their names sketch the shape
of ghostly grape clusters, although I have no
idea whether the vines that grew there made
anything worth drinking. Let’s hope not: that
soil is covered by apartment buildings and
office blocks now, and unlikely to be cleared
for vines again any time soon.
Nobody went to ancient Rome for the wine,
either, but they swarmed in for other reasons
and found plenty of wine when they got
there: you don’t get to be the hub of western
civilisation by leaving people thirsty.
I’ve come to Rome for the wine, even if the
ancient Romans’ great gift to wine drinkers
was actually the vines they embedded
everywhere else. I’ve tasted the distant
descendants of their plantings in Gaul
(France), in Tarraconensis and Baetica (both
Spain) and in Magna Graecia (southern Italy),
and I see a connection between the wine that
homesick soldiers carried into battle and the
monuments still rooted across Rome like
giant stone vines. So, I’ve come to the source.
The only problem with looking at Roman
monuments is that the whole city is a
monument — and trying to figure out
what to see, how to fit my head round the
might of Rome, is making me incredibly,
incurably thirsty.
So, I turn my back on the wonderful jagged
silhouette of the Colosseum, its ancient walls
pitted not with bullet holes, although that’s
what they look like, but with scars made
by medieval peasants excavating for the
bronze clamps they knew had been used to
build the structure. I walk down the Via dei
Serpenti which, despite its sinuous name, is
absolutely straight, turn in to Al Vino al Vino,
order a glass of decent, inexpensive Barbera
from Piedmont in northern Italy, and open a
book. I’m reading The Jewish War, the record
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
of a brave if ultimately foolhardy battle for
supremacy with the Romans, written 2,000
years ago by a Jew called Josephus. To add
insult to injury, the defeated, enslaved Jews
were forced to build the Colosseum. In
memory of those unlucky ancestors, I raise
my glass of Barbera, another immigrant
—no genetic link has been found with other
ROME
The only problem with
looking at Roman monuments
is that the whole city is a
monument — and trying to
figure out what to see, how
to fit my head round the
might of Rome, is making me
incredibly, incurably thirsty
SMART TRAVELLER
Piemontese varieties, which suggests, writes
Jancis Robinson in the Oxford Companion
to Wine, that it was imported into the region
relatively recently.
I pay up and leave, but don’t get far. Round
the next corner, almost hidden under a
waterfall of cascading ivy, is a cosy little bar,
Ai Tre Scalini, where wines by the glass (all, of
course, Italian) share space on a chalkboard
with gnocchi del giorno and lasagne al ragú.
“See how the sun’s heat, combined with the
moisture filtered through the vine, changes
to wine,” wrote Dante, and even though it’s
dark here, the Verdicchio di Matelica, a white
wine from Le Marche in eastern Italy, glows
in my glass like distilled sunlight.
I wander the city, imagining the taste
of the wines the Romans drank with such
enthusiasm, or the thoughts of a Jewish
slave waking to another day of sweating
and bleeding over the rough stones and
bronze clamps that will immortalise his
oppressor. The Roman victory parade that
followed the Siege of Jerusalem, soldiers
triumphantly holding aloft their spoils
from the Jews’ destroyed Temple, is carved
on the Arch of Titus, three minutes’ walk
from the Colosseum. Were the chained and
vanquished men depicted shuffling behind
their lost treasures forced to build this, too?
On my last day, I stop in Rome’s oldest
surviving bar, Trimani, to raise a farewell
glass: after a year of travelling and drinking,
it’s time to sit still in my own home and write.
You can’t separate travel and wine: as long
as people move, they’ll plant vines in new
places, driven by the desire to put down roots
and, maybe, produce something that truly
knows where it belongs. Without movement
propelled by the juice of sun-warmed,
fermented grapes, Rome’s soldiers might not
have conquered half the world; and I wouldn’t
be here, at the end of yet another journey,
sipping this, and thinking about that. Perhaps
after all, everyone comes to Rome for the
wine. They just don’t know it.
The Wandering Vine: Wine, The Romans and Me, by
Nina Caplan, is published by Bloomsbury. RRP: £16.99
ninacaplan.com
@ninacaplan
May 2018 47
SMART TRAVELLER
VIEW FROM THE USA // AARON MILLAR
BACK IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT
Having gone from boom town to ghost town, Detroit — Motor City — is
staging an astonishing comeback, testament to its never-say-die spirit
A
merica loves a comeback. I’m
thinking: Rocky IV (should’ve
toughed it out in the cold, Ivan
Drago, instead of your high-tech Russian
gym), The Karate Kid (the original,
obviously) and, my most embarrassing
public cry ever, Dodgeball: A True Underdog
Story (Yes, that’s right — I was on a plane,
I’d been awake for a very long time, but gosh
darn it, did that little bunch of misfits only
go and win the whole dang thing).
But perhaps the greatest American
comeback of all time is happening right now
— and Hollywood’s got nothing to do with
it. For years, Detroit was the butt of many a
joke: Why do ducks fly over Detroit upside
down? There's nothing worth crapping on.
What do you call an arsonist in Detroit? An
urban renewal specialist. And so on. Detroit
was Skegness and a Skoda rolled into one. It
was the Irishman walking into the bar.
Not any more. They have a saying here:
‘Nothing stops Detroit’. Bankrupt, beaten
down, crime on every corner, The D — as
they call it — is now on its way up. This
is America’s comeback city; the urban
equivalent of Muhammad Ali playing rope-
a-dope in the Rumble in the Jungle. You
think he’s out, you think his spirit’s broken,
but he’s just biding his time. Butterflies and
bees are on their way. Detroit is back and
there’s nothing stopping it now.
It had a long way to fall. At the dawn of
the 20th century, Detroit was the poster
child of the American dream. Home to the
largest car manufacturers on the planet,
people came from across the country on
the promise of good wages, a home and a
steady job. “We had more money than God,”
my guide, die-hard local Jeanette Pierce,
tells me as we stroll through downtown.
It’s obvious to see. Detroit is a masterpiece
of art deco design: The Guardian Building
— huge vaulted ceilings adorned in gold
leaf; The Fisher Building — wrapped head
to toe in 325,000sq ft of marble, like a
birthday present to capitalism. The barons
of industry pressed their opulence upon the
city like diamonds on a mistress.
But it wasn’t to last. As the car
manufacturers automated or moved out of
town, those former bastions of prosperity
turned to rot. We pass Michigan Central
48 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Station, the once great hub of civic pride
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
and grandeur, now stained in graffiti and
riddled with barbed wire; the Fisher Body
Plant 21, where shiny new Cadillacs were
made, now a ruin with broken windows
and crumbling walls. Skyscrapers hollowed
from within; derelict warehouses; empty
homes. A boom town and a ghost town,
simultaneously.
But in catastrophe, there’s opportunity,
and no one hustles harder than Detroit.
I browse shops that turn wood from
abandoned buildings into guitars, a jeweller
that transforms demolished graffiti walls
into art, and a florist that set up shop in a
deserted residential house — 4,000-odd
flowers surrounded by leaking pipes and
caved-in walls. There’s perhaps no better
metaphor for the city than the latter.
It’s buzzing too. A new restaurant, bar
or cafe has opened here, on average, every
week for the past three years. I eat one
of the best meals of my life gazing out at
ruined buildings, and sip craft cocktails
in a dark alleyway bar straight out of a
murder scene. A combination of low rent
and big opportunity has seen an influx
of creators of all kinds, from hip new
fashion brands to arts magazines and up-
and-coming musicians. And because it’s
home-grown, the city feels authentic and
unique — a menagerie of mixed treasures
rather than a homogenised mass of chains.
I came expecting despair but I discovered a
determination to prove the world wrong. It
was inspiring.
Perhaps that’s the point. Comebacks
matter because they’re catchy. When Ali
pulled himself off the ropes, he pulled us
with him. When Daniel-san crane kicked
Johnny from the Cobra Kai, we kicked too.
They give us hope. They give us strength.
They remind us that you have to get hit by
a few dodgeballs before you can make a
grown man cry. Detroit is coming back and
its people are taking us with them. Nothing
can stop them now.
British travel writer Aaron Millar ran away from London
in 2013 and has been hiding out in the Rocky
Mountains of Boulder, Colorado since.
@AaronMWriter
SMART TRAVELLER
The
Blog
Displays go through the
cat-and-mouse game the
South African government
played with the resistance,
using economic power
and military force to turn
potentially friendly host
countries against the
African National Congress
50 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SOUTH AFRICA
THE LILIESLEAF
FARM STORY
Nestled in a Johannesburg suburb, Liliesleaf Farm was
the secret hideout where South Africa’s future changed
H
istory is full of great what-ifs, and
one of the moments those great
counterfactuals swing on took
place at Liliesleaf Farm. Now consumed by
Johannesburg’s wealthy northern sprawl,
on 11 June 1963, it was a quiet countryside-
cusp farm run by department store designer
Arthur Goldreich.
Before the Goldreich family arrived to take
over the tenancy, things were kept ticking
over by David Motsamayi, who wore the
simple blue overalls of the black servant in
apartheid South Africa.
Montsamayi was a fake ID, and by 1963 it
had already been rumbled. Nelson Mandela
had recently been arrested for travelling
under a false passport and was due to stand
trial. Then, with the police raid on Liliesleaf
Farm, several of his co-conspirators joined
him in the dock.
The farm was where the resistance to
apartheid rule met. The South African
Communist Party provided the funds via
a front company, and key figures of the
African National Congress (ANC), which had
been banned in 1960, discussed strategy
there. There had recently been a shift from
non-violence, with Mandela heading up the
uMkhonto we Sizwe armed division and its
tactical campaign of bombings. The meeting
on 11 June was due to be the last held at
Liliesleaf — they feared the secret was out.
And they were right.
The Liliesleaf raid and subsequent Rivonia
Trial changed the story of the anti-apartheid
fight. The capture of so many key members
knocked the stuffi ng out of the ANC, and it
wasn’t until the 1976 Soweto uprising — led
by a new generation — that things properly
started to kick into gear again. How South
Africa’s story — and those of the major
players such as Mandela — would have
changed without that 13-year body blow is
open to debate.
Liliesleaf is now a museum, partly about
the events of 1963 but mainly about the
 SMART TRAVELLER

Most �ead
VISIT US ONLINE AT From inspiring women to new-wave ninjas — here are our most
NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK popular online posts
With daily updates, including
a blog every Tuesday and our
Travel Video of the Week each
Friday, get your fix of National
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY
Geographic Traveller online Inspiring women in travel
Defying convention, challenging ideals,
adventuring further: here are some of
the women in travel that inspired us on
this year’s International Women’s Day
struggle against apartheid. And it’s here that
it takes unexpected turns, the first of which
is a whole room devoted to Sweden.
After the Liliesleaf raid, one of the key
elements in the ANC’s strategy was getting
international support. It was slow progress, GREECE
but Swedish Prime Minister Olof Palme was Five of the best
at the forefront of changing Greek islands
global opinion. Sweden We share our favourite
LIKE THIS? READ MORE instituted the first official trade lesser-visited haunts in the
STORIES FROM SOUTH boycott of South Africa, poured Cyclades, with dazzling seas,
AFRICA ONLINE in huge amounts of funding to whitewashed villages and
the ANC and granted asylum to blushing bougainvillea
THE LONG ROAD
TO FREEDOM
political refugees.
A self-drive trip from The operations within Africa JAPAN
Swaziland through the are just as absorbing. Displays The ninja
wild province of go through the cat-and-mouse new wave
KwaZulu-Natal reveals game the South African Long veiled in
what can be discovered government played with the intrigue, one of
when things don’t exactly
resistance, using economic Japan’s most
go to plan
power and military force to renowned
CITY LIFE: DURBAN
turn potentially friendly host cultural icons is
A beach resort, gritty countries against the ANC. undergoing a
metropolis and bastion of Tanzania eventually became renaissance
vibrant Zulu culture. the ANC’s main base, with
More than just a training camps in the USSR,
post-safari seaside but Dar es Salaam is a long way
stop-off, the South from Johannesburg.
African coastal gem of
But to me, the single most
Durban is on the rise
remarkable exhibit at Liliesleaf
SLEEP: CAPE TOWN
is a safari truck belonging to
From caravans on a Africa Hinterland, an overland
rooftop to restored travel company that ran long-
Dutch farmhouses, Cape distance pan-African trips.
Town’s hotels are as Several companies did this DARK TOURISM
majestic and varied as its then, and many still do this When tragedy meets
famous scenery
now. The difference is that tourism PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
Africa Hinterland was a front With the likes of Auschwitz, The winners
for an arms-smuggling operation. Paying Ground Zero and Chernobyl With submissions covering the
guests would be blissfully unaware as seeing increasing numbers of globe, we present the cream of
weaponry was loaded on board in Lusaka, visitors, we ask whether it’s the crop from this year’s ever-
then carried over the South African border. voyeuristic or educational popular competition
And the absurd thing was that it ran as a
proper business — taking in all the key
sights and trying to make sure customers
had as good an experience as possible.
Authenticity, it seems, was the best disguise.
And perhaps a bit more farming needed to go
on at Liliesleaf to stop the secret getting out.
Search for NatGeoTravelUK on...
liliesleaf.co.za DAVID WHITLEY
FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+
omegabreaks.com TUMBLR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM

May 2018 51
 Weekender
MADEIRA
Closer to Africa than Europe, these Portuguese islands
are reinventing themselves as a wild place for a long
weekend of action and adventure
WORDS: Emma Holland
M
adeira is a wild escape. Its mountain peaks
climb up to the clouds; black-sand beaches
formed by ancient volcanoes fringe its shores;
it’s blessed with subtropical climes, year-round.
Inland, ivy creeps from cracks and crevices along
cobbled city streets, and much of the rugged landscape
remains untamed.
This Portuguese archipelago sits on the same latitude
as Morocco — located closer to West Africa than
mainland Portugal, and the islands are blessed with
extremely fertile soil, allowing flora from all corners of
the world to thrive. Verdant parks are filled with towering
palm trees, massive ferns and exotic plants: Tahitian
frangipanis, Australian bottlebrush, South African birds
of paradise and Brazilian jacaranda trees, to name a few.
Local fruit tests the taste buds and vocabulary — the
peculiar monstera deliciosa looks similar to a pineapple
but tastes like a banana, and the tamarillo (‘English
tomato’) is almost like a hybrid tomato-passion fruit.
In its capital, Funchal, you’ll find a buzzing modern
vibe that belies Madeira’s rather fusty reputation; for
those seeking, there’s international hotels, contemporary
art spaces, and restaurants where traditional dishes are
52 natgeotraveller.co.uk
revamped with vibrant, experimental flavours. Its once-
derelict old town has been revitalised with lively cafes
and bars spilling onto narrow alleys, and a local initiative
has seen artists paint quirky designs on the doorways
flanking the central Rua de Santa Maria.
North of the city, hairpin roads venture through lush
valleys, past boutique wineries and tiny hilltop churches.
Hiking trails along vertiginous slopes offer dizzying
views. Out to sea, whales and dolphins can be spotted
in serene waters. But the most indulgent ocean views,
perhaps, are to be had at Porto Moniz, where natural
swimming pools have formed within volcanic rock, and
local restaurants serve the catch of the day.
Traditionally drawing older crowds, Madeira’s
shaking off its sleepy reputation. There’s no lack of
adventures for thrill-seekeers — from trail running along
mountainside tracks, to rock climbing on jagged cliff
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
faces. And just two hours away by boat from the main
A street in the capital,
island, Porto Santo’s idyllic white-sand beach stretches
Funchal; a cable car;
as far as the eye can see, with crystal-clear waters made seawater swimming pool
for diving and snorkelling, above which winding coastal at Reid’s Palace Hotel;
paths are waiting to be explored by bike. fruit and veg at Mercado
dos Lavradores
Take a view
Head to the skies in a cable THREE TO TRY
car for panoramic views over
Funchal, where terracotta
rooftops stand out among
�rink up
pockets of greenery, and the
azure ocean sparkles in the
background. Look out over
palms, wild eucalyptus and
abundant vegetable gardens,
plus clusters of banana trees
next to vineyards — one of the
few places in the world where MADEIRA WINE PONCHA BRISA
these grow together. From Monte This famous fortified wine is Also the drink of choice for Madeira’s own Coca-Cola, Brisa
created through the careful celebrations and raging parties, comes in a range of different
at the top, whizz back down the
application of heat, and has a locals swear by it as a bullet-proof flavours with a fizzy kick. Brisa
steep, shiny-smooth streets in a
unique sweet flavour antidote for the flu. Poncha is a Maracujá is the most popular,
wicker toboggan, steered by the — excellent as an aperitif or to tipple made from sugar-cane rum, made from the juice of purple
carreiros, for a thrilling ride. accompany dessert. It’s made honey, sugar and lemon juice. Be passion fruit. The addictive,
from one of four different warned: it’s incredibly easy to drink, tangy taste is ideal for quenching
A rosy retreat grape varieties. and highly potent. thirst in the islands’ humidity.
For a dose of old-school charm,
check in at Belmond Reid’s
Palace. It’s all baby-pink hues,
tucked-away billiards
rooms and indoor palms
— modern luxury paired
with the feel that you’ve
stepped back in time.
Get lost exploring the
hotel gardens, then
relax by the ocean-side
pool where succulent
plants adorn the cliff
face. As the sun sets,
take in the twilight-
pink skies at the balcony
bar — make sure to try the
Funchal tonic with fresh
fennel. belmond.com

MARKET DAY

Head to the buzzy, vibrant

worker’s market, Mercado
dos Lavradores, to get a
taste of Madeira. Around the
tiled courtyard, exotic fruit
is beautifully presented in
wicker baskets under hanging
strings of red chilli. Downstairs
there’s octopus, enormous
tuna and grotesque eel-like
black scabbardfish, draped
over long steel counters. These
are delicious paired with the
sweetness of fried bananas
— a Madeiran delicacy.

May 2018 53
WEEKENDER
EYEWITNESS
CLIP, CLIMB & CANYON
I’m standing at the top of a waterfall. Up here, right on the edge, the
rocks are slippery as water rushes past. One quick glance down,
and my confidence wanes. It’s my first time canyoning, and so far I
imagine it’ll be my last. Clipped in and harnessed up, I cautiously
lean back over the edge, keeping my body close to the rock face as I
take the first steps down.
“It’s easy, just straighten your legs out and you’ll feel stable,” yells
our guide, Nuno, from below.
I breathe in, and surprise myself by moving fast, coming to a halt
as my foot knocks a smooth, muddy jut. I wobble and scramble to
steady myself. Gripping my hands tighter on the rope, I continue to
rappel — another few shaky strides, and I’ve made it.
The bottom of the waterfall is right in the shadow of the rock
looming above. It’s chilly out of the direct sun, and to continue on,
we have to wade through a pool of water. I jump, tucking my legs
into a ball under my arms. I gasp for air — it’s bone-chillingly cold. I
paddle to the boulders at the edge, where sunlight trickles through
the treetops above. My wetsuit now heavy, I waddle a little further,
where the rocks stretch out bathed in a bright sunny glow. It’s a
good spot to watch the others in my group make their way down
— most are less hesitant than me, and a couple glide down almost
54 natgeotraveller.co.uk
DID YOU KNOW?
The archipelago of
Madeira is a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, and
includes no less than
five protected nature
reserves.
effortlessly. We’re up in the Madeiran mountains, where dry grass
and spiky shrubs cover a land peppered with skeletal charred trees
— recent wildfires devastated much of the area, I’m told. Muddy
banks line the stream’s trail, and tangled wild grass rests on the
slopes. Greenery pokes through the rocks with prickly vines, and
a fallen tree trunk acts as a slippery obstacle on our path. Further
along, there’s an opening where blackberry bushes line the water’s
edge — we pick some for a little snack.
Several waterfalls later, I’m exhilarated and ready for more.
We arrive at the final hurdle, where a long zip-line wire is set up,
leading out from the top of the ledge. I’m last this time, and as I
fly through the air, a loud whoosh and clangs of metal sound out
— plus a sharp squeal from me. Suddenly, I’m across the water on
another rocky plateau, looking back at the cascades as I catch
my breath.
British Airways and EasyJet fly direct to Madeira from various UK airports.
Double rooms at Belmond Reid’s Palace start from £370 a night, B&B, and double
rooms at Castanheiro Boutique Hotel start from £143 a night, B&B. ba.com
easyjet.com castanheiroboutqiuehotel.com. More info: madeiraallyear.com
Eat T
here are many smells of Sri Lanka:
cinnamon, pepper, cardamom,

SRI LANKA
Sri Lanka offers deeply fragrant interpretations of
southern Asian cuisine, with colours, tastes and
textures that feed all senses. Words: Audrey Gillan
coconut, papaya, mango, pineapple,
pungent dried maldive fish and tea. But if
there was one fragrance that was ubiquitous
across the island once known as Serendip,
it’s that of curry leaves. The aroma wafts at
you from a bush of it growing wild; erupts
from leaves popping and sputtering in hot
oil; rises from almost every savoury dish.
Each time I pass the plants growing in the
garden beside my large hut at The Mudhouse
in rural Anamaduwa, I dip down to rub the
glossy green leaves and then hold my fingers
to my nose.
At this sustainable settlement of mud huts
in the middle of the forest, I’m introduced
to rustic, rural Sri Lankan life and cooking
based around the fresh vegetables, fruit and
herbs grown here. My guide, 73-year-old
Douglas, comes by bicycle to collect me,
and we rattle around reddish paths before
he takes me on a tour of the organic farm.
Pointing out wild passion fruit, cashew
nut trees, wild aubergines and guava, the
voice of this spritely whippet of a man
is accompanied by the loud honking of
peacocks. He spots luffa (a long, ridged gourd)
and drumstick (a long bean). “Very important
vegetable for making curry. Very tasty and
we eat the leaves in salad,” Douglas says. In
a dark kitchen, chef Gunaratna shows me
the burners, constructed from mud and cow
dung, which use wood and coconut shells for
fuel, and clay pots for cooking everything,
but not for boiling water. “This is all from
the jungle. It’s all very healthy. We don’t use
aluminium which has cancerous properties,
or gas, which has chemicals,” he explains.
“When we’re cooking, we’re always thinking
of the health properties. For example, we
don’t peel pumpkin because the skin is
good for you.”
Days begin with traditional kola kanda
(herbal porridge) — which is a flavoursome
blend of jungle leaves, garlic, a scattering
of rice and coconut milk. Eating lunch and
IMAGES: OWEN RAGGETT; AUDREY GILLAN; MUDHOUSE

dinner here, I realise that Sri Lankan curries

are intensely fresh, cooked moments before
they arrive at the table, and are lighter than
their counterparts elsewhere on the Indian
subcontinent. They taste amazing and
feel full of vitality and goodness, with the
principles of Ayurveda, the holistic healing
system, always in mind.
From The Mudhouse, we drive for hours
across this country once riven apart by a
26-year civil war and still bearing scars of the
devastating 2004 Boxing Day tsunami. As the
gradient rises in the southeast, the landscape
and flora and fauna change, the temperature

56 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
The Mudhouse kitchen;
rice and curry spread;
fresh lime soda

May 2018 57
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Five Sri Lankan staples
HOPPERS
These come in two varieties: made
from fermented rice and coconut
batter, and fried into a frilly
pancake; or from rice flour and
water, and pressed into noodles.
TEA
Ceylon tea celebrated its 150th
anniversary in 2017 and some of
the world’s best brews are grown
in the Sri Lankan hill country. You
can see the whole process, from
plucking to drying, to refining and
grading, then take high tea.
RICE & CURRY
An array of curries and chutneys
accompany rice, eaten at least
once a day by most Sri Lankans
with their fingers.
SAMBOL
Sambol is a relish or chutney, made
to accompany rice and curry. The
most popular are pol (coconut) and
seeni (onion).
CINNAMON
The world’s best cinnamon grows
in Sri Lanka. The outer bark of
the tree is stripped and it’s the
inner bark that’s known as ‘true
cinnamon’, with its sweet aroma.
IMAGES: AUDREY GILLAN
becomes cooler and I notice that the small
vegetable stalls common by the side of the
road are now selling carrots, radishes and
cabbages. By the time I begin to see lush, green
tea bushes, the climate has changed entirely.
Our destination is Thotalagala, a ‘bungalow’
property in the midst of an estate on the edge
of the Haputale Escarpment, where I’m served
an exquisite high tea by the open fire. I sleep
in a room named after Sir Thomas Lipton,
born in my home city of Glasgow, a wee boy
from Govan who became the world’s biggest
tea baron. At the nearby Dambatenne tea
estate, the first bought by Lipton, the factory
he built in 1890 remains almost unchanged.
I’m mesmerised as I learn about tea picking
and watch as once-green leaves are dried and
graded using intricate machinery.
I visit the workers’ houses, where Tamil
tea-picking families lived in packed, damp,
EAT
small rooms in lined terraces. Things
have changed a little — asbestos has been
removed, the density of occupation is less
— but as I pick my way down slippery, muddy
steps in pouring rain, shivering with cold,
I can see that life is still not easy here. In
the home of Pakaywathi, who picked tea
for 38 years, I’m taken to her tiny kitchen
where a sooty, corner cooking fire is fuelled
by tea-bush wood. Tamils came here from
Southern India and remain wedded to their
own distinctive dishes — idli, a savoury rice
cake, and dahl vadi, fried yellow lentil patties
flavoured with onion, green chilli, dried
chilli and curry leaves, amongst others.
The vegetation changes completely
— coconut, bananas, bamboo, rice,
jackfruit — as we drive down the coast to
meet Manoj and Deevi Silva. In an outside
kitchen in the middle of a garden planted
with herbs and fruit trees, the couple
show me how to make rice and curry, the
backbone of Sri Lankan cuisine, eaten at
least once a day. Myriad curries are served
with rice and accompanied by sambols,
essentially chutneys and relishes: pol
(coconut) sambol made from freshly grated
coconut, seeni (onion) sambol and fiery red
lunumiris sambol (chilli).
Deevi grinds her spices in an enormous
pestle and mortar, then mixes these
through her various ingredients with her
fingers. She shows me how coconut flesh
is scraped from the hull, loosened with a
very small amount of water and squeezed
through her fingers to produce ‘first milk’,
a thicker cream — more water is added to
the remaining coconut pulp, to give ‘second
milk’. “It’s important to eat all the spices;
they’re good for digestion,” she explains as
she marinates tuna, bought from the fish
market earlier in the morning.
Along the coast, near Dalawella Beach,
is Why House, a boutique hotel run by
May 2018 59
EAT
the wonderfully eccentric Henrietta
(Hen) Cottam always accompanied by her
dachshund Nigella (Jelly). Here she has
created a magical ‘modern Sri Lankan menu’.
Hoppers are a traditional breakfast dish in
this country. These are thin, crispy pancakes
served most often with an egg in the
middle and sambols on the side, and string
hoppers are pancakes of handmade noodles,
accompanied by curries and sambols and
eaten with the hands. Hen’s string hoppers
are dehydrated, fried and served with curd,
tree tomato (bitter and small), chutney and
pomegranate. Chef Lal cooks kottu roti — a
Sri Lankan street food also known as chop
chop — to order on a flat grill at the side of
the restaurant, theatrically clack clacking
as he cuts roti into strips and mixes it with
chicken, vegetables, garlic and ginger and a
‘special gravy’.
In Colombo, at Maniumpathy, another
fabulous bungalow hotel, I’m introduced to
the pungent, darker flavours of Jaffna, in the
north. Sitting in an enclosed courtyard, by
the pool, away from the bustle of the city, I
have fresh, local crab, served in a spicy, rich
sauce served with a rice and curry feast.
At the Dutch Burgher Union, a relic of
yesteryear, I learn of the culinary influence
of the various colonisers of what was once
Ceylon — the Portuguese, the Dutch and the
British. I try lamprais, rice cooked in chicken
stock, served with chicken cutlet, seeni
sambol, deep-fried ash plantain and deep-
fried egg, all wrapped together in a banana
leaf and baked. My friend Thushni de Silva
tells me to eat this with my fingers, just like
EXPERIENCE TRAVEL GROUP’S Flavours of Sri Lanka costs from £2,795 per person including international
flights, transportation, chauffeur/guide and 10 nights at The Mudhouse, Thotalagala, Why House and
Maniumpathy, as well as a number of culinary experiences. experiencetravelgroup.com
60 natgeotraveller.co.uk
you would rice and curry. “When you mix it
with your fingers and all the juices combine,
it gives you a whole different taste,” she
says. “Food is the very essence of Sri Lankan
culture. It plays a big role in life, from birth
to death and there’s a sense of warmth to
our hospitality.” This hospitality and food
remains in my memory long after my visit to
the teardrop-shaped island. Along with my
new-found passion for fresh curry leaves.
PREVIOUS PAGE: Rice and curry; Manoj
and Deevi Silva
FROM ABOVE: Young girl enjoying food
at The Mudhouse; pumpkin curry
A TASTE OF
Sri Lanka
WHY HOUSE, TALPE
Manager Hen Cottam has curated
a unique menu at this small
hotel not far from the beach at
Dalawella. “We’ve taken the bits
of Sri Lankan food that I think are
most interesting, to offer ‘modern
Sri Lankan’. String hoppers are
dehydrated and fried with curd,
tree tomato, which is bitter and
small, and served with chutney
and pomegranate. Our dhal soup
is much lighter, blended in the
Thermomix, to make it extremely
smooth.” The meal includes kottu
roti, prawn fry, gotu kola (a local
green leaf) salad and coconut
creme caramel.
HOW MUCH: Around £18 without
wine. whyhousesrilanka.com
MANIUMPATHY, COLOMBO
Housed in a glorious old colonial
bungalow, Maniumpathy is a
boutique hotel paying homage
to the north of the island with a
Jaffna menu featuring Tamil dishes.
Rasam, a spicy tamarind soup,
begins the show alongside ulundu
vadai, a kind of doughnut-y bread.
Crab, mutton, aubergine and
chicken curries proliferate, served
with dhal, raw green mango salad,
curd and rice. Dessert is payasam,
a sweet vermicelli and coconut
pudding, scented with cinnamon
and cardamom.
HOW MUCH: The Jaffna menu is
around £24 without wine.
maniumpathy.com
MINISTRY OF CRAB, COLOMBO
Sri Lanka’s famous crabs are
the stars at this downtown
Colombo restaurant. Located
in the Old Dutch Hospital, it’s
owned by former cricketers
Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar
Sangakkara, and chef and
television personality Dharshan
Munidasa. Watch your crab being
cooked in an open kitchen at
the top of a big, bustling room
IMAGES: MUDHOUSE; AUDREY GILLAN
where guests don bibs and chow
down. They come in various
sizes, including £120 Crabzilla
at 2kg. King prawns from the
country’s rivers are also excellent,
particularly those salt-grilled in the
Japanese ebi shioyaki style.
HOW MUCH: Crabs begin at around
£18.50 for a small one (500-600g).
ministryofcrab.com
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 Neighbourhood
MELBOURNE
Famed for its food scene and creative spirit, Melbourne is not just Australia’s
coolest city, it’s also officially the most liveable. But to find its true heart,
visitors must venture beyond the centre. Words: Shaney Hudson

For many years, Melbourne has been ranked one of the world’s most liveable
cities. Not bad for a place that’s long played second fiddle to the glamour of
Sydney. Victoria’s state capital has earned itself a reputation as a laid-back,
ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

affordable metropolis with great food and a friendly, multicultural vibe.

Immigration has long been central to its appeal — it’s home to large Italian,
Greek and Vietnamese communities, among others — and the city is currently
growing faster than any other Australian state capital. But while most tourists
flock to the city-centre attractions, it’s the suburbs that showcase the best of
Melbourne: its people, their culture and the energy of a growing city.

May 2018 63
NEIGHBOURHOOD
Footscray
Separated from the CBD by miles of shipping
containers and warehouse distribution
centres, Footscray is like nowhere else in
Melbourne. While investment has poured
into other parts, it’s always been a bit scruffy
— but for generations of immigrants, it’s been
the first port of call.
“Footscray seems to be a place that’s
welcoming for anybody who’s starting
out,” says Tony Cavallaro, who grew up
here. Established 62 years ago, his family’s
business, T Cavallaro & Sons, is a local
institution, known across Melbourne for its
cannoli. On any given day, you’ll find three
generations of extended family baking in the
kitchen, laughter carrying out from the back.
“Footscray was mainly European — Greeks,
Italians, Yugoslavs, Poles,” says Tony, whose
father emigrated from Sicily to Australia in
the 1950s. “Because we had that European
background, it was like one big community.”
As I walk through the suburb, the
businesses tell the tale of the area’s shifting
demographics. Next door to Cavallaro’s
is a bakery selling Vietnamese bánh mì
sandwiches — a legacy of Southeast Asian
immigration since the 1970s — while down
on Nicholson Street, an Ethiopian shop
makes injera flatbread, evidence of the area’s
African community.
“It’s becoming more like I remember it in
the early days, because everyone is moving
in, rather than one ethnic group at a time,”
says Tony.
Unlike much of Melbourne, Footscray
hasn’t fully gentrified yet, but the creep
has begun, with numerous high-rise
apartment blocks shooting up. Meanwhile,
cheaper rents and a relatively unsaturated
market have made it an appealing place
for new ventures. Among the businesses
that have flocked to the area is an outpost
of Melbourne burger chain Huxtaburger,
and 8bit, a diner whose corner facade gets
covered afresh every few weeks with fly-
posters patterned with the brand’s retro
arcade game-style burger logo.
“We believed we had a chance to provide
something that was not being offered,” says
Caleb Baker, co-owner of Mr West, a bar that
opened last October in the rafters of a former
discount shop in Footscray’s mall.
“We always wanted it to be in the west
— and, in particular, in Footscray,” says
Caleb. “We thought it had such a unique and
Lune Croissanterie is a bakery ‘purpose-built for croissants’
— created in a temperature-controlled glass cube; Aunty Peg’s
coffee house makes the artistic choice to not offer milk. The
pretension is easily forgiven when you experience the product
64 natgeotraveller.co.uk
soulful vibe about it. Everyone who lives in or
has grown up in the west is very proud of it.”
Chapel Street
While Footscray is a place to start out, the
story of Melbourne’s once-bustling high
street is about starting again. Running from
South Yarra to St Kilda through Windsor
and Prahran, Melbourne’s Chapel Street
suffered the same fate as many of Britain’s
retail precincts in the past decade, yielding
to the pressure of mall culture and online
shopping. Yet, in recent years, the city’s
booming food scene has breathed new life
into the area around Chapel Street — or
parts of it, at least. Driven by Melbourne’s
rapid population growth, property prices
have soared and thirtysomethings with an
appetite for dining out have moved in.
While there are still rundown sections, the
Windsor end of the street is now home to one
of Melbourne’s premium inner-city dining
strips. During the day, cashed-up gourmands
head to Prahran Market — Australia’s oldest
food market — to snack on boutique bites,
sip designer coffee and fill their shopping
bags with organic, sustainable produce.
Low commercial rents have made this a
place where up-and-coming chefs open cool
restaurants, and foodies wait for hours in the
bitter cold for tables at local institutions like
Japanese fusion restaurant Mr Miyagi (think
salmon nori tacos) and Chin Chin (which has
just opened a branch in Sydney, ramping up
the interstate rivalry locals in both cities
seem to preoccupy themselves with).
The local bar scene has been subject
to the same social media-fuelled hype.
Walk through the industrial freezer door
at sandwich shop Boston Sub and you’ll
be able to order a cocktail from Chapel
Street’s worst-kept secret, the tiki bar-style
speakeasy Jungle Boy. Those after something
more sophisticated can peruse the moody-
interiors and whiskey-laden shelves of old-
school cocktail bar The Woods of Windsor.
On the indie shopping front, Greville
Street’s boutiques and record store are worth
a detour from the main drag, as is the chaos of
the Chapel Street Bazaar, which features retro
homewares, collectibles of questionable taste
and buried pop culture treasures.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Trams; Fitzroy, as seen
from Naked for Satan’s rooftop bar; Hawker Hall
restaurant; Prahran Market
When in Melbourne…
LIVE MUSIC
Back in 2010, over 10,000 people
marched through the CBD to
protest that the city’s licensing
laws were slowly strangling the
live music scene. People power
worked, and once-doomed
venues such as The Tote and
others along Collingwood’s Smith
Street continue to nurture up-
and-coming acts.
thetotehotel.com
TRAMS
The city’s trams cover 24 routes
across 155 miles of track. They’re
free in the Central CBD, where
the number 35 City Circle service
passes key tourist attractions and
includes commentary.
STREET ART
Street art is a big part of
Melbourne’s identity. The CBD
laneways are saturated with tags
and murals thrown up overnight
by visitors, but the best street art
is found in the precincts — often
in the most unexpected places.
PHILLIP ISLAND
Every city needs a quick getaway,
and for most Melburnians, that
place is Phillip Island, home
to penguins, seals, vineyards
and fine dining restaurants,
plus a Formula 1 racing circuit.
visitphillipisland.com
COFFEE
The fever-pitch obsession with
IMAGES: CHRIS VAN HOVE
coffee in Melbourne means
baristas now have the skills
of chemists. Owners import
and roast their own beans, and
customers travel from far afield to
try the latest hipster brew.
NEIGHBOURHOOD

May 2018 65
NEIGHBOURHOOD

Fitzroy & Collingwood
A bohemian enclave for artists and a hub
for hipsters, Fitzroy and sister suburb
Collingwood were once defined by their
blue-collar roots, shared student housing,
warehouses and industry. These days, the
area has found itself in fashion as people
have bought into the laid-back, creative vibe.
“It was very working class,” says Eliot
Morrissey, of Localing Private Tours
Melbourne. “My grandma’s generation think
it’s crazy that all the kids want to live down
here, because back then you’d get mugged”.
These two areas are known for their street
art, which ranges from the quirky to the
political. Highlights include a photorealistic
portrait of an Indigenous Australian child
Satanovich, who distilled vodka in the MORE INFO
basement during the Depression. “It would
T Cavallaro & Sons.
get so hot during the Melbourne summer tcavallaroandsons.com.au
that he’d take his clothes off and be left in his Mr West. mrwest.com.au
jocks stirring these big vats,” says Eliot. “So Chin Chin. chinchinrestaurant.com.au
the local saying became ‘let’s get naked for Prahran Market. prahranmarket.com.au
Satan’, which was code for ‘let’s get wasted on Naked for Satan. nakedforsatan.com.au
Satanovich’s bootleg vodka’.” Huxtaburger. huxtaburger.com.au
As is often the case in Melbourne, food 8bit. eat8bit.com.au
Lune Croissanterie.
here is taken a little too seriously. Lune
lunecroissanterie.com
Croissanterie is a bakery ‘purpose-built for
Aunty Peg’s. proudmarycoffee.com.au
croissants’ — lovingly prepared inside a Mr Miyagi. mrmiyagi.com.au
temperature-controlled glass cube called the Jungle Boy. jboy.com.au
Lune Lab; Aunty Peg’s cafe/coffee roasting The Woods of Windsor.
house has a coffee menu that changes every thewoodsofwindsor.com
two weeks (they also make the artistic Localing Private Tours Melbourne.
choice to not offer milk). The pretension is localing.com.au

by artist Adnate in Fitzroy, and a 34-year-old
mural by US artist Keith Haring on the walls
of the former Collingwood Technical College
that’s somehow survived the elements (and
repeated graffiti attacks).
Other installations have a more parochial
flavour. On Brunswick Street, well-known
local poet and performer Adrian ‘Mr Poetry’
Rawlins is immortalised in cast-iron by
slightly grating, but easily forgiven once you
visitvictoria.com.au
experience the quality of — and passion for
visitmelbourne.com
— the product. chapelstreet.com.au
While those in search of the hip life
drive prices up, local authority housing
keeps the area’s demographic balanced
— often visibly so. On a tower block in
Fitzroy is a blue neon art installation
created by kids living on the estate. It Emirates flies to Melbourne
IMAGES: CHRIS VAN HOVE

via Dubai from Heathrow, Gatwick,

Melbourne sculptor Peter Corlett. Another
urban landmark is Naked for Satan, a pintxos
joint with a rooftop bar. The story behind
the pub’s name exemplifies the creative
and slightly dodgy spirit of the area. It pays
tribute to Russian immigrant Leon ‘Satan’
flickers in the night with a simple, clear
reminder for those visiting: ‘Our Home’.
FROM LEFT: Aunty Peg’s cafe/coffee roasting house;
Builders Arms Hotel, Fitzroy
Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow
and Newcastle. Expedia offers
economy flights from Gatwick plus
a five-night stay at Coppersmith
Hotel from £1,229 per person.
emirates.com expedia.co.uk

66 natgeotraveller.co.uk
billingham.co.uk/NGT
made in england since 1973
PHOTO OP The Hadley One in Sage/Chocolate. Also available in Khaki/Chocolate & Black/Black.
 Sleep
BERLIN
The German capital’s penchant for hedonism and playfulness is evident in its
hotel scene — from a hippy happy pad to raunchy rooms with burlesque on
the event menu, these beds definitely aren’t boring. Words: David Whitley

Everywhere could benefit from some of what Berlin has. It more than
punches above its weight on the important museums front, but there’s
something much more exciting here than old master paintings.
The fall of the Wall in 1989 left a wealth of blank canvas. It’s a canvas that’s been
gleefully pounced upon, usually by people with plenty of ideas and not so much
money. It has ensured that a creative culture is pushed relentlessly to the forefront,
whether street art or tech start-ups. English is increasingly an equal lingua franca
to German, as twentysomethings from around the world flock for the magic
combination of hedonism, freedom of expression and relatively cheap rents.
All of this shines through in Berlin’s hotel scene. All manner of ideas are thrown
into the mix, while hoteliers seek to execute visions as much as provide somewhere
to stay. Price tags are steadily rising, but Berlin is also a surprisingly cheap place to
stay by international standards. So you can usually afford to be picky. But this is
Berlin: there’s a place for everyone to be who they want to be.
IMAGE: GETTY

F
68 natgeotraveller.co.uk
For wildlife
25HOURS BIKINI
As hotel gimmicks go, being able to look out of your
window towards monkeys and giraffes is a pretty excellent
one. It’s not quite the Serengeti, but the 25hours’ position
next to the zoo is pretty nifty. The hotel is wild inside, too,
with all manner of ideas thrown at the decor. This means
video art installations, bikes hanging from the ceiling and
hammocks next to the in-house bakery. But perhaps the
most useful asset is the position above the Bikini mall,
which herds together indie boutiques, shops and stalls.
ROOMS: From €148 (£131), room only. 25hours-hotels.com

May 2018 69
SLEEP

For decadence
THE PROVOCATEUR
A whirlwind of ideas — singer on the bar,
drag queen by the entrance, downstairs
cabarets and burlesque shows — has
gone into making the Provocateur a den
of decadence. The concept is 1920s Paris
meets modern Berlin, and that makes for a
high raunch factor with red-painted walls
and lashings of red velvet everywhere else.
Dimmer switches by the bed, cocktail sets
in the minibar and a ‘hangover breakfast’
option of a cigarette, coffee and vodka show
that the focus isn’t exactly on guests who
have come to spend their time sleeping.
ROOMS: From €135 (£119), room only.
provocateur-hotel.com

70 natgeotraveller.co.uk

For the swim
THE ODERBERGER
Back in 1902, when public baths were seen as
a symbol of cultural greatness rather than a
slightly grimy place to hold an aquaerobics
class, the Stadtbad Oderberger was like
a swimming pool inside a church. Alas,
time took its toll, and it’s only now that the
complex has been turned into a hotel — with
the 60ft pool preserved — that the glory days
have returned. The pool is the unquestioned
highlight, but there’s charm elsewhere, too.
The rooms have a slightly Scandi feel
— wooden floors, white walls, simple furniture
— but they’re given personality by how they’ve
been made to fit the original building.
ABOVE: The Oderberger ROOMS: From €121.50 (£107), B&B.
swimming pool hotel-oderbergerberlin.com
SLEEP
For dining
MANDALA
Potsdamer Platz is the prime representative
of the new Berlin, with the giant Sony Centre
straddling a space where the Wall once
snaked through. Opposite is the Mandala,
an internationalist, peacefully calm take
on a luxury hotel that is oddly in keeping
with the area. Rooms are big — 430sq ft at
a minimum — and slickly presented. There
are a few unexpected bonuses clearly aimed
at longer stayers, such as the laundry rooms
and the kitchenettes, but the real star is the
Facil restaurant, which flaunts two Michelin
stars. It’s light and airy, and the menu is
consistently creative and changing.
ROOMS: From €225 (£200), room only.
themandala.de
May 2018 71
 “Las Vegas in Berlin“

“The show unfolds in an ecstatic and poetic dreamworld“

“Gaultier’s fantastical imagination”

 SLEEP

Three to try
For local feel
THE MICHELBERGER
One look at the arty businesses that share the
Michelberger’s building on Warschauer Strasse should
give ample indication of what it’s about. The creative
vibe continues inside, where lampshades are made of
magazine covers, and a piano, guitar and bongos are
stacked up ready to play. And darkened hallways with
TVs on the walls lead to bright, simple rooms.
ROOMS: From €73.50 (£65), room only.
michelbergerhotel.com

For backpackers
PLUS BERLIN
Most great hostels tend to be relatively small. That’s
not the case with Plus — it’s a sprawling complex with
extraordinary facilities. How many hostels, for example,
have their own astroturf five-a-side football pitch? Or
a basement pool that most leisure centres would be
happy with? The rooms — all en suite — fall into the
perfectly decent, clean and acceptable category.
ROOMS: Dorm beds from €13.40 (£11), private
doubles from €56.80 (£50), room only. plushostels.com

For glamour
HOTEL ZOO
There’s a velvet rope in front of the lift, and once the
doors open, flashing paparazzi lights come from the
images of the photographers on the back wall. There’s a
heavy sprinkling of movie magic about the Hotel Zoo, on
the Kurfürstendamm, long Berlin’s showiest shopping
street. The shimmer continues upstairs, with studded
silvery furniture, giant mirrors, designer towels and glass
giraffe sculptures standing guard.
ROOMS: From €246 (£218), room only. hotelzoo.de

For hippy spirit

HÜTTENPALAST
Inside a hangar-esque hall are several
caravans and a few wooden cabins, some
of which are kitsched up with skis on top.
Each acts as a separate room, each has a little
table and chairs outside, and the common
spaces between are filled with books, vintage
record players and board games. This oddity
in hipster central Kreuzkölln is somewhere
between an indoor campsite and a commune,
and it’s utterly loveable for it. Some of the
caravans can be a bit of a tight squeeze, so
unless you’ve a particular penchant for them,
ABOVE AND LEFT: the cabins are the best bet.
Accommodation ROOMS: Caravans and cabins from €70 (£61),
at Hüttenpalast room only. huettenpalast.de

May 2018 73
SLEEP

For heritage
HOTEL AM STEINPLATZ
Once one of the city’s top hotels — the likes of
Bridget Bardot and Yehudi Menuhin lived here
— the Hotel am Steinplatz was turned into
a retirement home in the 1970s. But it’s now
burst back into its old glory. The facade is still
the same, but there’s not the faintest whiff of
fustiness inside. The rooms are classy, and in
the lift, you’ll learn about Beate the goat who
lived here during the Second World War.
ROOMS: From €234 (£207), room only.
hotelsteinplatz.com

For families
MINILOFT
Beyond the initial shock factor that comes
from the unapologetically stark, modern look,
the Miniloft apartment hotel starts to make
sense. Walls are concrete, the bed’s very low
to the floor and the wardrobe is a fabric rack
hanging from a rail. But once you’ve bought
into the aesthetic, everything suddenly turns
rather handy. The kitchenette and sofa bed are
a boon for those travelling with kids, and you
can order a food pack if you arrive late.
APARTMENTS: From €139 (£123), room only.
miniloft.com

74 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Berlin:
Capital of
SpieS
A thrilling journey through the
history of espionage

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin, Potsdamer Platz,

Open daily 10 am – 8 pm, www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de
 IMAGE: ALAMY

76 natgeotraveller.co.uk
THE NEW

ITALY

YOU ’ VE ADMIRE D THE

COLOSSEUM AND SOAKED UP
THE SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF
V E N I C E , B U T A N O T H E R I TA LY
I S WA I T I N G I N T H E W I N G S .
W E U N C OV E R T H E FAC E S A N D
PL ACES — OLD AND NEW
— T H AT A R E R E W R I T I N G
THIS MUCH- LOVED CL A SSIC

WORDS JULIA BUCKLEY

May 2018 77
THE NEW ITALY
THE NEW
EXPERIENCES
THE TOUR GUIDE
NAIMA SCOGNAMIGLIO,
BOLOGNA
“You may not want to hear this,” says Naima Scognamiglio, looking
sheepish, “but…” She gestures towards one of Bologna’s spectacular
medieval buildings: the Palazzo della Mercanzia, the city’s chamber
of commerce since the Middle Ages. The original recipes for many of
Bologna’s trademark dishes — including tortellini, tagliatelle, ragù
— are preserved here, Naima has told me. But it’s the open space in
front of the building she’s actually pointing to — the spot where a
tavern once stood. “They say the delivery boys from the market used to
come here to drink wine… and eat cats.”
Welcome to Bologna, and a new breed of tour guide. Naima sees
herself as less of a teacher and more of a show-woman. That’s where
the cats come in. I’m getting a bespoke tour of the sites of historic inns.
Heading south of the Via Emilia — the ancient Roman trading route
from Rimini to Piacenza — we arrive at an area that was once home
to a warren of pubs and hotels. Naima has taken me here to bring an
ancient Monopoly-style board game to life. Created in 1712, each of its
60 squares bears an illustration of a local pub sign and the name of the
dish the establishment was best known for.
“I didn’t want to be like a schoolmarm, teaching facts and dates,”
Naima says. “Nobody remembers the date a tavern opened, but
everyone remembers the place where the man found his wife with
another man.” The L’Offesa di Dio tavern where that domestic drama
unfolded is long gone, but the Osteria del Sole, which opened in 1465,
is still going strong. It’s closed today, but we find Vicolo Colombina, a
sleek restaurant on the site of La Cervetta, a taverna once known for its
‘buoni colombi’ (‘good doves’), according to the board game.
My tour opens a window on working class Bolognesi life through
the ages, from the wine porters to the country girls who came to work
in the silk mills but ended up in the city’s brothel. Naima points to the
spot where it once stood, on Vicolo della Scimmia (‘Monkey Alley’
— named after a long-gone tavern on the street, La Scimmia, which in
turn spawned the Bolognese saying prendere la scimmia (‘to take the
monkey’, i.e. get royally drunk).
We finish the tour at Osteria de’ Poeti, a cellar restaurant dating
back to 1600, with giant barrels embedded in the walls and wine-
mixing equipment hanging from the vaulted roofs. “Sometimes I try
to imagine this city in the past, how colourful it was,” Naima says
wistfully. But thanks to her, I feel I already know it.
HOW TO DO IT: Half-day tours for up to 20 people from €100 (£95).
wanderingwithus.com
Kirker Holidays has three nights in Bologna from £649 per person,
including flights, transfer, and B&B accommodation at Hotel Corona
d’Oro. kirkerholidays.com
78 natgeotraveller.co.uk
THE HOTEL
VILLAGGIO VECCHIA
MOTTOLA, PUGLIA
It’s 8.30am on my first day in the town
of Mottola when there’s a hammering
at the door. “Giulia!” calls a male voice.
“Giuuuuulia! I just wanted to give you una
cosina before breakfast.”
I open up to find a beaming man with
a manicured white moustache thrusting
a package at me. It’s my first encounter
with Osvaldo Zazzara, and he’s brought
me warm, tomato-smeared focaccia, fresh
from the bakery down the road. Who needs
room service when you have this?
Osvaldo is part of a new breed of Italian
hotelier — as keen on sharing their homes
and traditions as they are on making money.
His property, Villaggio Vecchia Mottola,
is an albergo diffuso — a ‘scattered hotel’,
created from rooms in empty or abandoned
homes. Guests go to local cafes for their
breakfast and the reception area is usually
based in an office or shop. Here in Mottola
— home to canyons dotted with ancient,
rock-hewn settlements — my mother and
I are staying in a cottage two minutes from
the main square. Osvaldo’s ‘reception’ is his
shop, selling Pugliese products.
Alberghi diffusi — mushrooming across
Italy — have found their spiritual home here
in Puglia, often in medieval fishing villages
and the quintessential whitewashed, trullo-
filled towns of the Itria Valley.
At the end of our stay, as Osvaldo helps
us pack our car, he tells me how important it
is that his guests unwind. He wants them to
realise they’re family, he says. After directing
a group selfie, he hugs us, says goodbye and
waves us off, just like we’re family.
IMAGE: ALAMY
HOW TO DO IT: Doubles from £40, B&B.
vecchiamottola.com
 THE NEW ITALY

Della Mercanzia square, Bologna

PREVIOUS PAGES: Fiat 500 painted with
images of the city, Genoa

May 2018 79
80
THE NEW ITALY

natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGE: VENEZIA AUTENTICA RESPONSIBLE TOURISM UNIQUE MEMORIES
 THE NEW ITALY

THE ENTREPRENEURS

VALERIA DUFLOT
& SEBASTIAN
FAGARAZZI, VENICE
Battling the crowds to meet Valeria Duflot and Sebastian
Fagarazzi is no easy task. It’s high summer — a time
when the city is swamped by tourists who pile in on
boats and trains and flood the alleyways that were never
built for 30 million pairs of feet a year (and behave so
badly that last year the exasperated Venetian authorities
introduced fines for antisocial behaviour).
I’m staying in Dorsoduro, close to locals’ bar L’Ombra
del Leone — near San Marco — where we’re due to meet.
But getting there means pressing against the sweaty flesh
of my fellow tourists on a vaporetto (waterbus) across the
Grand Canal, fighting my way through thickets of selfie
sticks and squeezing through gawping crowds at stalls
hawking tatty, foreign-made trinkets.
Over-tourism is a problem the city has long grappled
with, but while many Venetians resent the hoards of
visitors, Valeria and Sebastian see the relentless flow
as an opportunity to be embraced. The couple met
when Valeria, who’s French, came to Venice as a tourist.
Sebastian grew up bearing witness to the ill effects of
tourism — he used to work in his family’s shop, selling
high-end menswear, but with residents abandoning the
city in their droves, it was forced to close in 2015.
Today’s tourists prize low prices over quality, it seems.
“They tell you: I can find it cheaper,” Sebastian shrugs, over
a glass of Prosecco. “It’s painful. It’s frustrating.” Those
artisans, he says, hold the key to Venice’s past. Skills like
forcola carving (the crafting of gondolas’ wooden oarlocks),
book-binding and paper-marbling continue centuries-old
traditions. If this generation of artisans give up on their
trades, that history is gone forever.
The couple’s solution is simple: they’ve created Venezia
Autentica, a network of artisans, linked to a loyalty card
costing €10 (£9) that gives a 10% discount on purchases
over €30 (£27) from shops displaying the Venezia
Autentica logo. But it’s not just about the money. Having
a network bestowing authenticity is a boon for visitors
keen to know whether, say, the ‘Venetian mask’ they’re
thinking of buying is actually made in Venice. The Friend
scheme currently has 65 members, all of whom have
in-depth listings and information on their website for
tourists to pore over.
But time is running out — something Valeria and
Sebastian are acutely aware of. “Venetians are being
pushed out of their city,” says Valeria. “Some leave
by choice but many just don’t have the option to stay.
Venetians seem to be doomed to disappear.” The
couple estimate, however, that if only 5-10% of visitors
supported local shops, Venice could be reborn. They plan
to have 200 businesses — including bars and restaurants
— signed up by this summer.
“Valeria and Sebastian are part of this brilliant
young generation who’ll mobilise and succeed in
defending what’s left,” says jewellery designer Emanuela
Chimenton, of Muranero, one of the few remaining
Murano glass-workers and a member of the collective.
“Working with them, I’m sure we’ll be able to change
Local artisan many things, and make ‘tomorrow’ better.”
blowing glass MORE INFO: veneziaautentica.com muranero.venezia.it

May 2018 81
THE NEW ITALY

THE CITY
BREAKS

Culture by the sea

TRIESTE
It has stretches of spectacular coastline, a fascinating
history involving tugs-of-war with Italy, Austria and
Yugoslavia, and a cafe scene with a Viennese coffeehouse
feel. Trieste may be Italy’s least Italian city (it borders
Slovenia and Croatia), but it’s one of its most beguiling.
Culture bubbles under the surface here. Italy’s Alinari
Archive of photos opened a high-tech museum here
in 2016, the Alinari Image Museum (alinari.it), and the
marine reserve at nearby Miramare has a great new
visitor centre.
But the real reason to visit lies within the shimmering
waters of the Gulf of Trieste. Millpond calm in summer,
this five-mile stretch of shoreline from town to the
fairytale Miramare castle becomes one enormous beach.

A slice of the south

NAPLES

IMAGES: KORBINIAN PÜRCKHAUER/PICFAIR; ALAMY; GETTY

Naples has a certain reputation. When Mount Vesuvius
caught fire last year, it was, experts said, started by the
Mafia. And it still isn’t the kind of place to strut around
with your valuables out.
But that’s still no reason to simply jet in then dash off
to Pompeii or Sorrento. There’s a sizzle in the Neapolitan
air right now. UNESCO recently granted Neapolitan pizza
‘intangible cultural heritage’ status, while the EU has
allocated €100m (£88m) to restore the historical centre,
plus almost half as much again for Pompeii.
With new flights from Belfast (EasyJet), Doncaster
Sheffield (TUI), Birmingham and Edinburgh (Jet2) this
year — as well as fast trains from Rome that take just an
hour — Naples is easier than ever to get to.

Modest charm Genoa has long been dismissed as a mere port town — a place to fly or cruise into, and get straight out of. But
GENOA we’re finally waking up to the charms of this city, which has one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval centres.
Its pedestrianised warren of alleys are topped by astonishing Renaissance architecture — including the
Palazzi dei Rolli. Today, these former grand palaces house everything from bars and shops to B&Bs.
Want more? No problem; there’s also a glut of art nouveau architecture in the ‘new town’, sweeping views
of the colourful city and the Med beyond it from hillside lookouts, and — perhaps most importantly — some
of the best street food in Italy. Focaccia was born here, while characterful hole-in-the-wall outlets offer such
distinctive fare as farinata (chickpea pancakes), and fried seafood, from anchovies to calamari. Be grateful
that the port’s reputation has put people off. For now, it’s all yours.

82 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 THE NEW ITALY

Genoese street scene

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: Miramare Castle,
Trieste; pizza, Naples

May 2018 83
THE NEW ITALY

THE NEW
MUST-DOS

IMAGES: WOJCIECH WYSZKOWSKI / PICFAIR; EREMITO

THE MUST-VISIT SCENIC SPOT

CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO, LAZIO

Once a rapidly declining village, haemorrhaging its population to more liveable
cities, today Civita di Bagnoregio — two hours north of Rome — is one of Italy’s
tourism success stories. The medieval borgo, atop a verdant bluff, is the first
Italian town to charge visitors an entrance fee. But instead of deterring them, it’s
kicked off a level of tourism that the little-loved Lazio countryside has never seen
before, with the footbridge into this car-free town becoming a hot new Instagram
location. Go on a weekday when the crowds — and entrance fees (£2.60) — are
smaller. visitlazio.com

84 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 THE NEW ITALY

FROM LEFT: Civita di Bagnoregio;

Eremito exterior; Table set in the
Refectory, Eremito

THE MUST-STAY HOTEL

EREMITO,
UMBRIA
There was a time when Italian hotels seemed
to abide by the motto ‘the glammer, the
better’. Eremito Hotelito Del Alma cast
all that aside when it opened in 2015, in
the middle of a forested wilderness near
Orvieto. A farmhouse recast as a modern-day
hermitage, Eremito goes beyond mere digital
detox (there’s no phone reception or wi-fi)
— expect single-bedded former monks’ cells
sporting hessian curtains and rough linen
sheets, and candlelit vegetarian dinners
taken in silence. Sometimes luxury comes
from the simplest things of all. Rooms from
£174, all-inclusive. eremito.com

May 2018 85
 THE NEW ITALY

THE MUST-TRY SPA

ISCHIA
Italy’s spa culture dates back to
the time of the Etruscans (5th
century), and although you can
find plenty of establishments
geared towards tourists, authentic
Italian spas are more about
thermal waters than gold-infused
facials. Ischia, the volcanic island
in the bay of Naples, is the place to
dive in. The Terme di Cavascura
is a Roman thermal bath
repurposed for the 21st century.
The philosopher Cicero wrote
about its ‘boiling waters’. In a cave
here, you can float in waters once
used by Romans. After, shower
in a thermal waterfall and bake
in a natural sauna while inhaling
gases (said to be health-giving)
THE MUST-VISIT MONUMENT
arising from beneath the ground.
Massages and mud treatments are PALAZZO DUCALE,
URBINO
also offered. cavascura.it

The Ideal City is the name of a 15th-century painting — a

study of classical architectural perfection — that hangs
in the Palazzo Ducale in Urbino, in the Marche region.
THE MUST-SEE VIEW But anyone who’s visited the ancient walled city will
LUNGOMARE tell you it could equally apply to Urbino itself. Unsullied
FALCOMATÀ, by modern architecture and mass tourism, it’s centred
around the enormous Palazzo Ducale, which manages to
REGGIO pull off looking both imposing and pretty, thanks to its
Urbino street with Palazzo
CALABRIA delicate twin conical towers and hulking walls. Today,
Ducale in the background
it’s an art gallery, stuffed with Renaissance masterpieces BELOW: Sculpture by Italian
‘Italy’s most beautiful by the likes of Piero della Francesca and Raphael — not artist Rabarama Reggio,
kilometre’ is what writer to mention The Ideal City, a painting with unresolved Lungomare Falcomatà,
(and Italy’s unofficial bard) attribution. gallerianazionalemarche.it Reggio Calabria
Gabriele d’Annunzio is
said to have called the
Lungomare Falcomatà
— the waterfront of
under-appreciated city
Reggio Calabria. Why?
For a start, it’s gorgeous
— a wide, pedestrianised
walkway, lined on one side
with chubby palm trees
and elegant, art deco-style
lamps, and overlooked by
grand belle époque villas on
the other. Then there’s the
small matter of that view:
IMAGES: GETTY; 4CORNERS

Sicily — on the other side

of the Strait of Messina,
topped by Etna’s snowy
peak — appears so close it
looks swimmable.

May 2018 87
THE NEW ITALY

NEW DESTINATIONS
& CULTURE

IMAGE: 4CORNERS

88 natgeotraveller.co.uk

Santa Maria della Pietà
church, Abruzzo Gran Sasso
e Monti della Laga National
Park, Abruzzo
NEXT PAGE, FROM LEFT:
Sculpture at Museo
dell’Opera del Duomo;
main hall, Museo dell’Opera
del Duomo
THE NEW ITALY
The little-known ones
DISCOVER NEW
DESTINATIONS
This year’s interest in Italy’s lesser-known
regions is not just focused on discovering
pristine landscapes, in many cases it’s about
helping destinations reinvent themselves.
Abruzzo
This region, east of Rome, has never been
a magnet for tourists, and after a fatal
avalanche at a mountain hotel in Pescara
in January last year, it faded even further
off the radar. To many outside Italy, it was
already best known for the 2009 earthquake
that devastated L’Aquila, the regional capital,
which is still rebuilding.
Today, however, it’s seeking to reinvent by
promoting its natural landscapes. Abruzzo
has varied terrain, from miles of manicured
sands around Pescara, to mountainous
national parks where wolves still roam and
castles perch on rocky bluffs. This is a place
where hotels are rooted in the landscape
— Sextantio Albergo Diffuso (sextantio.it), for
instance, seems to have been carved from the
mountainside in which it sits — towns grow
up around Roman remains, and fishermen
still use trabocchi (ramshackle fishing
platforms fashioned from driftwood).
South Tyrol
The province is making a bid for Italy’s food
capital crown. The northern region now has
more Michelin stars to its name than any
other (32 across 19 restaurants), yet remains
more laid-back than other gastro hotspots,
with events like the Gourmet Ski Safari, where
participants ski between courses, and a May
food festival showcasing local products.
Basilicata
This southern region is shaking off its ‘poor
man’s Puglia’ reputation by extending the
focus beyond cave-city Matera. There are
ancient ruins, a rugged Mediterranean
coastline around Maratea (whose clifftop
‘Christ the Redeemer’ statue was inspired by
Rio’s) and a burgeoning luxury scene, centred
on medieval hilltop town Bernalda and the
Palazzo Margherita hotel (coppolaresorts.com),
owned by one Francis Ford Coppola.
May 2018 89
 M U S E U M

CAPRI
Photo by Marcello di Pace

Villa San Michele is a historic house museum on the beautiful island of Capri.
Discover the eclectic home and art collection of the owner Axel Munthe, Queen Victoria of Sweden’s doctor, who
thrilled the world with his bestselling novel “The Story of San Michele” in the 1920s.
Stroll through the enchanting, award-winning garden, with its unique views of the Gulf of Naples.
The magic of Villa San Michele is incomparable.
Open all year round
www.villasanmichele.eu

New renaissance
THE CULTURAL
HOTSPOTS
Florence
In 2013, the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo
(museumflorence.com) closed its doors. When
the landmark gallery, containing priceless
artworks originally commissioned for the
city’s cathedral, reopened two years later, it
was reborn as a sleek modern cultural venue
as visually impressive as Athens’ Acropolis
Museum. Open-plan, light-flooded galleries
and walkways crisscrossing bits of the original
cathedral facade were now juxtaposed against
centuries-old works by Michelangelo and
Donatello, casting them in a new light.
Another dramatic makeover comes in
the shape of the Museo degli Innocenti
(istitutodeglinnocenti.it), reopened in 2016 after
a three-year revamp updated the Brunelleschi-
designed building to glorious effect.
IMAGES: ALAMY
Rome
Rome, meanwhile, is focusing on lively
new ways to experience its ancient sites,
THE NEW ITALY
from sound-and-light shows (including
projections at the Domus Aurea) to 3D
headsets at the Ara Pacis and Baths of
Caracalla, and a new Vatican-approved
show, Universal Judgment, which marries
laser technology and live acrobatics with
a potted history of the Sistine Chapel and
Michelangelo. There’s also the recent Detour
app (detour.com), which brings the city to life
by making a surround-sound, GPS-based
guide out of your phone, complete with film
clips, music, and narration by experts on
subjects as varied as politics and hip hop.
Calabria
On a grassroots level, there are fascinating
initiatives bubbling away here. These include
the formerly abandoned mountain village
of Pentedattilo (still accessible only by foot
or on donkey), which is rebranding itself
as a cultural tourism hotspot, with artisan
workshops, galleries and summer events.
There’s also the Ionian coastal of Riace, which
went from ghost town to boom town when it
started welcoming migrants and encouraging
them to embrace vanishing local traditions
and trades, from embroidery to pottery.
May 2018 91
THE NEW ITALY

THE NEW
FOOD
HEROES

THE FARMER

RITA SALVADORI
While studying art at Milan’s prestigious Brera
Academy, Rita Salvadori was asked to create an art
installation. Keen to hark back to her roots (quite
literally), Rita hit on the novel idea of planting chilli
peppers amid the olive groves at her family’s Tuscan
farm. It changed her life. Today, having ditched the art
world, ‘chilli queen’ Rita cultivates over 80,000 plants
on that same family plot, including some of the spiciest
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
strains on earth. Everything is organic, and her Peperita
IMAGE: GETTY

Rita Salvadori’s chillies;

line — sold in three shops, including one in central Rita; Panzano in Chianti,
Rome — includes chilli-infused salt and jam as well as a hilltop town in Tuscany;
seeds and powder. peperita.it cellar at Fontodi

92 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 THE NEW ITALY

THE WINE-MAKER Back in 1968, the Manettis — a family of terracotta

GIOVANNI artisans stretching back eight generations — wanted

a new, yet equally Tuscan, challenge. They decided to
MANETTI produce wine on their Fontodi estate, in the hills south
of the town of Panzano in Chianti — ditching traditional
wooden barrels and ageing the wine in giant, homemade
amphorae (a tall terracotta two-handled jug), a method
that predates the Romans. Today, headed by Giovanni
Manetti, the family produces nine organic wines, using
amphorae at various stages of the process. One — a
Sangiovese named Dino, after Giovanni’s father, who
started the winery — is aged entirely in terracotta for
a full 13 months. The result? Fresher and more delicate
than any barrel-aged wine. Tastings by appointment.
fontodi.com

May 2018 93
THE NEW ITALY

Stefano Caccavari’s dough
BELOW: Stefano prepares the dough
RIGHT: Monteveglio Abbey, viewed from a
vineyard in the village of Monteveglio
THE CHEF
MASSIMO RATTI
Massimo Ratti likes fruit — a lot. At his
restaurant, Ponterosso, every dish is based
on fruit — a radical reinterpretation of the
culinary traditions of his region, Emilia-
Romagna, famed for venerable dishes like
tortellini and risotto. At Ponterosso, where
there’s no written menu, meat tortellini are
slathered in a sour-ish strawberry sauce;
ricotta and parsley tortelloni are dusted
with grated coconut and served on pureed
peas; and the signature risotto adds orange,
chestnut, pomegranate and passion fruit.
Astonishingly, it works. And it’s highly
affordable. Three-course meals at Ratti’s
low-key establishment (the restaurant
occupies the ground floor of his house) in
rural town Monteveglio, cost around £30.
ristoranteponterosso.com

THE MILLER

STEFANO
CACCAVARI
It was a search for “the kind of flour that our
grandparents used to eat” that prompted
Stefano Caccavari to launch his Mulinum
project. His flour revival takes seven ancient
grains from his native Calabria that have long
been out of fashion (including barley, rye and
spelt) — growing them organically and grinding
IMAGES: ALAMY; CARCHEDI GIUSEPPE

them with a stone wheel, as farmers in his

region would have done through the centuries.
In 2017, having crowdfunded on Facebook, he
opened the Mulino di San Floro near Catanzaro,
working with 20 local growers to “claw back
what my grandparents were passionate about.”
They’ve since added Italy’s first ‘farming’
pizzeria, where all the flour and vegetables used
are their own, and there are plans to open mills
in Tuscany, Puglia and Sicily. mulinum.it

94 natgeotraveller.co.uk
TURIN: DESTINATION ANCIENT EGYPT
Inside a Baroque building in the center of Turin, the
oldest Egyptian museum in the world awaits you.
Founded in 1824, it houses a collection of more than
40.000 artifacts, of which 3.300 on display. The
extraordinary selection of statues, papyri, sarcophagi,
and objects from everyday life, offers to the visitor a
journey back in time covering more than 4.000 years
of history, archaeology and art.
museoegizio.it | Via Accademia delle Scienze 6, Torino Italy
In 2015, the Museo Egizio has doubled in size and has
inaugurated a renewed exhibition path that develops
on 4 floors and includes 15 rooms.
It is considered the most important museum devoted
to Egyptian antiquities after the one in Cairo and it is
a destination not to be missed in order to understand
one of the most fascinating cultures of antiquity.

M USIC TO THE MOUNTAINS
EVERY SUMMER, THE SOUNDS OF THE DOLOMITES FESTIVAL SEES ARTISTS FROM ALL OVER THE
WORLD PERFORM IN A NATURAL AMPHITHEATRE HIGH UP IN THE ITALIAN MOUNTAINS
FESTIVAL FEVER
Lightly strumming his guitar, Jack Savoretti
grins at the crowd. His voice is deep, gravely
and goose bump-inducing as it reverberates
off the mountains.
The ash-grey peaks rise spectacularly
above the valley where the singer is standing.
There’s no stage or props, just a stool, a mike
and a guitar. The audience, meanwhile, lounge
on picnic blankets, munching sandwiches
and popping cans of beer, as they bask in
the July sunshine.
Jack is one of an eclectic lineup of artists
performing at the Sounds of the Dolomites,
a concert held every summer high in the
Italian mountains. The walk to the meadow
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
TAKING
we’re relaxing in has taken over an hour, but the universe.
somehow each panting breath has made the A ripple of
music sound even more magical. applause, a
Covered by dense pine forests and bow, and quiet
sprinkled with emerald lakes, this remote descends once
corner of Northern Italy is famed more. I lie back
for its natural splendour. Hikers and bikers on the grass
make annual pilgrimages here, drawn to the and look to the
untamed beauty of the peaks. granite towers,
As Jack’s final line is carried off stark against the blue
by the breeze, the valley is enveloped in an sky, wispy clouds draping
immense silence. The onlookers seem to hold themselves loosely around their tops.
their breath, each person as spellbound as What a place.
the next, and I find myself, not for the first
time today, contemplating the sublimity of Words: Charlotte Wigram- Evans
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

ANOTHER YEAR…
Another stellar programme. Here are a few of the
highlights coming up this year:

■ Graham Nash, of legendary group Crosby, Stills

& Nash, opens the 2018 festival, which boasts a
lineup of 25 musical acts from around the world,
spanning genres ranging from classical to jazz
and world music.

■ Organisers have pulled out all the stops to

ensure stunning locations are used. From 6-8
July, for example, climber Maurizio Zanolla (aka
Manolo) and cellist Mario Brunello will lead
fans on a walk through the Pala group mountain
range, before playing a set with the peaks as a
backdrop. Make sure to snap up tickets quickly,
places are limited and this exclusive event is
not-to-be-missed.

■ The Campiglio Special Week (a ‘festival within

a festival’) returns this year, from 16-22 July,
with a concert a day in the beautiful Brenta
Dolimites around the town of Madonna di
Campiglio. Chamber Orchestra Kremerata
Baltica, with its famous founder Gideon Kremer,
will be among those performing.

■ While most concerts begin at midday, the

sunrise concert in Val di Fassa on 14 July,
featuring Maria Pia Devito and Ensemble
Burnogualà, is worth setting an alarm for. Dawn
in the Dolomites is nothing short of spectacular.

ESSENTIALS
WHERE: Trentino lies in
Italy’s far north. It’s home to
UNESCO World Heritage Site
the Dolomites as well as the
renowned Lake Garda.

WHEN: This year’s festival runs

from 30 June to 31 August, when
temperatures regularly reach the
high 20s.

GETTING THERE: Verona is the

closest international airport to
Trentino — Easyjet, Ryanair, and
British Airways all fly direct from
London. Average flight time: 2h.

HOW: For the complete

programme, go to
isuonidelledolomiti.it/en

vi s i t t re n t in o . info/e n
98 natgeotraveller.co.uk
THE LAND OF
HAPPINESS

It takes a plane, boat, horse and cart and bone-shaking beach buggy to reach
Brazil’s most secluded coastal town, the ‘Republic of Caraíva’, home to pristine
forests, beach-shack cuisine and locals who like to do things their own way

Words: Lydia Bell Photographs: Uiler Costa Santos

May 2018 99
BRAZIL

In the wild southern reaches of the Brazilian

state of Bahia, as you edge closer to Espírito
Santo, there’s a long beach known as Praia
do Espelho (‘Mirror Beach’) for the way its
waters shimmer and glitter reflectively under
the endless sun. Many Brazilians have heard
about it — it’s often picked for those ‘world’s
most beautiful beach’ lists — but most haven’t
visited, because it’s more than out of the way.
Here, I climb up to the headland to get
a better look at the coastline. It stretches
ruggedly in both directions as far as the eye can
see, as pristine and unadulterated as when the
first conquistadors sailed down here in the mid
16th century.
Close to here, in fact, is the spot where the
Portuguese explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral
— blown off course while on a voyage to India
— became the first European to lay eyes on
Brazil. He sailed these parts on Easter Day 1500,
naming the mountain he saw Monte Pascoal.
Today, the national park named after it remains
one of the last places you can encounter a
swathe of virgin Atlantic Forest — most of the
trees having been cleared by plantation owners
in the colonial period. Cabral remarked on how
beautiful, friendly and healthy-looking the
indigenous people were, and went on his
merry way.
The Age of Discovery put this part of
southern Bahia on the map, but the most read
about and talked about spot on this stretch of
coast today is undoubtedly Trancoso, about
20 miles north. Since the international jet set
IF TRANCOSO IS BAHIA ‘discovered’ the town a decade ago, the coastal region
has been firmly on the radar for savvy travellers to
Brazil. The fabled town is undeniably gorgeous and
LITE — BAHIA DILUTED still retains its laid-back, unpretentious vibe; a grassy
central square doubles as a football pitch and space for

BY FLAVOURS FROM horse grazing, banked by restaurants, small galleries

and boutiques; its long, palm-lined, sandy beaches
are lapped by a warm sea; there are exceptional villas
THE REST OF THE to rent. But for those with a little more time to spare,
and a little more curiosity to expend, there are patches
further afield in southern Bahia worth discovering.
WORLD — THEN HEAD If Trancoso is Bahia lite — Bahia diluted by flavours
from the rest of the world — then go further south and

SOUTH AND YOU you get Bahia straight, no chaser. I’m discovering the
southernmost coastline, travelling towards the border
with the state of Espírito Santo, as part of a multistage
GET BAHIA STRAIGHT, overland trip that involves a motorised beach buggy, a
horse and cart, a wooden ferry boat and a 4x4. As I left
Trancoso, the owner of my hotel called out: “Have fun at
NO CHASER the ends of the Bahia earth!”
To get to the ends of the Bahia earth, we’ve weaved
south on dirt tracks, rolling through patches of
Atlantic Forest, papaya plantations and buffalo grazing
grounds. On the way, we break the journey with a stop
at Restaurante da Silvinha, a tiny place set back from
the sands on Espelho Beach. The owner, Silvinha, serves
a set lunch to order — providing you phone ahead that
morning to tell her you’re coming. This local institution
PREVIOUS PAGES, FROM LEFT: Horse and cart ‘taxi’ driver and his
only has three tables, so, although the food and setting
friend waiting for passengers, Caraiva; sunrise at Espelho Beach are rustic, it feels exclusive. The food, which is mind-
ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Seafood platter, Espelho Beach; view from Hotel blowingly good, is hard to describe, but it’s as if a
Fazenda Calá & Divino Michelin-starred chef had decided to turn their hand to

100 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 BRAZIL

May 2018 101

BRAZIL

pescetarian, hippy fare. Silvinha combines the freshest

local seafood and organic vegetables with oriental-
inspired seasonings, coconut milk, homemade tropical
fruit chutneys and purees, and juices made with fruits
and berries from her garden.
Satiated by Silvinha, we drive along sandy lanes to the
Caraíva River, where a ferryboat awaits to transport us
across. And it’s goodbye to the 4x4, because where we’re
headed is a car-free zone. On the other side of the sleepy
river is a tiny, jungled peninsula where the river meets
the sea: the village of Caraíva. A local offers to transport
my bags via horse and cart to the pousada where I’m
staying, and so I jump in, flying off the seat with every
clop of the horse’s hooves. After several minutes,
twisting and turning down sandy lanes, he deposits me
at the gate of Le Paxa, a hotel set in spacious gardens
bordering the tempestuous Atlantic surf.
Le Paxa has an open-sided living and dining area
with a couple of bedrooms leading off it, and two small
cottages in the garden, one with a palm tree growing
through the roof. This is where I’m staying. My four-
posted bedroom is trussed up with mosquito nets. The
whole place has a beautiful, chic simplicity; mixing
local art and objets with reclaimed hardwoods and
antiques from around the world. As with the other
places I stay at in Bahia, nature infiltrates the tiniest
domestic flourishes — there are always fresh flowers:
a jug of flame flowers decorating the breakfast table; a
tiny jug of flowers arriving with the pudding tray. The
term ‘hotel’ doesn’t really fit Le Paxa, as the owners live
on site and so one feels somewhat en famille.

VIVA LA REPUBLIC
I quickly become enamoured of this dreamy village on
the eastern bank of the mangrove-lined Rio Caraíva.
It was only connected by road in the 1980s, with
electricity arriving in 2007. Locals campaigned for
cables to be laid underneath the sandy byways, which
means Caraíva is one of the rare places in Brazil free
from ugly hanging electricity wires. Mobile reception
is practically nonexistent and the road in and out,
accessed by a little wooden river taxi, is unpaved, so can
become impassable after heavy rain.
From an outsider’s perspective, the village feels a bit
like an experiment in ideal living. Because it occupies
a tiny, elongated peninsula between a river, the sea and
the Caramuru-Paraguaçu Indigenous Reserve, with
Monte Pascoal National Park beyond, there’s nowhere
for the town to grow. Lying in bed I can hear the sound
of the crashing Atlantic surf, which occasionally takes
on a hazy eau de nil hue where it merges with the river.
Along the satisfyingly empty beach, where dolphins
frolic, a few friendly Indian women sell simple but
stunning homewares and jewellery, made with local
timbers and the polished and dyed seeds of local fruits,
including the acai berry.
Also staying at Le Paxa are two women: the Paris-
based colleague of the owner, who’s having a little
holiday, and an elegant older woman from Belo

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Boy on a horse near Espelho Beach; sunset at

the beach, Caraíva; Silvinha, owner and chef of Restaurante da Silvinha

102 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 BRAZIL

CARAÍVA FEELS LIKE AN

EXPERIMENT IN IDEAL
LIVING, OCCUPYING
A TINY PENINSULA
BETWEEN A RIVER,
THE SEA AND THE
CARAMURU-PARAGUAÇU
INDIGENOUS RESERVE

May 2018 103

BRAZIL
Horizonte, who makes me laugh even though we
don’t speak each other’s language. On an epic walk
together, we head towards Espelho Beach in search of
a coastal lake. First, we recross the Rio Caraíva in the
tiny ferry boat, then walk for about two miles before
reaching a shack where someone has nailed a sign to a
wooden tree proclaiming: ‘Bem Vindo. Praia do Satu’
(‘Welcome. Satu Beach’).
Here, at Satu’s Beach we drink refreshing coconut
water and eat prawn pastels (filled pastries). It reminds
me of some of the best beach shacks in the Caribbean.
Above us, the flag of the ‘Republic of Caraíva’, featuring
a dog, flaps in the gentle breeze. Satu, the owner, tells us
the waters we’re gazing at are full of turtles, and in the
distance, kitesurfers plough the horizon.
After swimming in warm waters, we wander back to
Caraíva before the high tide cuts us off, and find arroz
com camarão (rice and shrimp) waiting for us — pepped
up with pimenta de cheiro peppers — which pops with
aromatic flavour.
The owners of Le Paxa have invested heavily in their
adopted village, running a little fashion boutique
stocked with summer wear from Paris and a range of
beauty products they’ve created using oil from local
almescar trees. There’s also a cafe, offering galettes (flat,
round cakes), a crêperie, and a pizzeria whose crowning
glory is a chocolate and banana pizza (which sounds like
an aberration but is, in fact, a triumph).
At their riverside jazz bar, Bar Do Porto, we’re
serenaded by an amazing guitarist to whose tunes
104 natgeotraveller.co.uk
everyone in the bar sings along to enthusiastically
while waving their arms — a typically Brazilian,
unselfconscious response to live music.
Another of Le Paxa’s contributions to the local
community is the NGO it runs, which provides around
80% of Caraíva’s school-aged children with free music,
dance and art lessons, adding to the bohemian vibe of
a village that’s long been a magnet for artists, writers,
musicians from far and wide.
Caraíva has a strange, complicated history. According
to colonial maps of Brazil, it was founded in 1537,
and its Portuguese-descended residents were living
entirely off-grid even as late as the 1950s. When the
planners of the Monte Pascoal Historical National Park
(created in 1961) flew planes over the area to establish
its boundaries, they noticed a previously unknown
village, Caraíva, and excluded it from the national park
territory. However, the state of Bahia had already gifted
the land to the federal government to create the park,
so Caraíva was effectively cut loose from Bahia, which
is why the locals refer to it as the ‘Republic of Caraíva’,
and tend to dance to their own tune. In 2006, having FROM LEFT: Gin
continuously occupied the place for over 400 years, cocktail made with
they narrowly missed being relocated when its was juniper berries, biri
biri and lemon, Toca
proposed that their village be annexed by the adjoining
do Siri Caraiva; Pataxó
Barra Velha indigenous land. So it’s hardly surprising
indigenous handcrafts
they retain a wary, David-versus-Goliath-like defiance store, Corumbau;
when it comes to outsiders. waitress with a prawn-
The latest big shot to have been summarily dispensed filled pastry, Boteco
with is Globo, Latin America’s biggest TV network, do Pará
 BRAZIL

May 2018 105

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 BRAZIL

GLOBO WANTED TO which many Brazilians argue controls the nation.

Globo wanted to film the soap opera De Volta pra Casa

FILM THE SOAP OPERA in Caraíva but when it was put to a vote, 88% of the
villagers said no and so the TV giant duly retreated with
its tail between its legs. The locals had just found out
DE VOLTA PRA CASA IN the news when I arrived and were thoroughly enjoying
their victory.
At Toca do Siri Caraiva, a new bar across the road
CARAÍVA BUT WHEN from the village’s tiny, whitewashed 1920s church, I
encounter Bob Rodriguez, Caraíva’s answer to Tom

IT WAS PUT TO A VOTE, Cruise in Cocktail — an eccentric barman who spends

the European summer working in bars in the Canary
Islands and Formentera. He’s created a sensational gin
88% OF THE VILLAGERS cocktail made with juniper berries, biri biri fruit (which
resembles star fruit) and lemon, which he sets about

SAID NO AND SO THE

making for me with such intensity that he gently mists
my face with tonic in the process.

TV GIANT RETREATED THE HEALING PLACE

I have one more journey south, to Corumbau. To get
there, I hop into a horse-drawn carriage that takes
WITH ITS TAIL me to a beach, where taxi drivers on beach buggies
from the local indigenous Pataxó village of Barra

BETWEEN ITS LEGS Velha have congregated. I’m then whisked on an

exhilarating, bumpy, half-hour beach ride to the
Corumbau River, which is brown with silt. “They call
it the Coca-Cola river,” smiles the ferryman, when I
ask its name. I jump into a small boat along with some
other passengers. On the other side, we walk for a few
minutes along the beach until we arrive in the village
of Corumbau, where a car is waiting, having been sent
from my next hotel, Vila Naia Corumbau, a few miles
down the road. I’m starting to realise why not
too many people seem to have made it down
here from Trancoso.
Nestled amid a large palm grove, the hotel
comprises four rooms and four cottages set
back from the wild, remote beach. In the 1990s,
Renata Mellão, its owner and the founder of
Sao Paulo’s Museum of the Brazilian Object,
came here for with a friend who was looking
to buy land. They found a plot and the friend,
Renata tells me, said: “This really is in the
middle of nowhere. No one is going to come
here. I don’t want it. You have it.” And so she
did, although it was several years before Renata
commissioned an architect friend to create Vila
Naia Corumbau.
To call the hotel’s location secluded,
or off the beaten track, would be a huge
understatement. To call its beach deserted
would be similarly underselling its Robinson
Crusoe glory — approximately nine miles of
deserted beach, banked by virgin vegetation.
Coral reefs necklace the waters offshore. The
only living thing I encounter on an hour’s walk
along the beach at dusk is a terrier. During the
day, I walk half an hour to the village, where
I find a few beachside restaurants, two pretty
sandbanks jutting out into the cobalt waters,
a tiny whitewashed church, a woman selling
watermelons, the giant corpse of a dead tree
adorning the sands like an installation, and

May 2018 107

BRAZIL

B R A Z I L

O C E A N
Bahia Porto Seguro

Espírito Santo

Trancoso

B a h i a

A T L A N T I C
PRAIA DO ESPELHO

Caraíva
a
Rio C a r a í v

Corumbau
R io
C or
umbau

5 Miles

not much else. At a cafe, I explain to the owner that I’m ESSENTIALS
quite hungry but don’t have any money on me; would
it be OK to have some fried fish and pay her tomorrow?
Getting there & around
“Yeah, sure,” she says. About 400 people live in this tiny
TAP Air Portugal and Air Europa
village, and most are fishermen; their tiny, colourful fly to Salvador from Heathrow,
boats moored in the lagoon. Gatwick and Manchester
Of course, I don’t have to walk to the village to get (via either Lisbon or Madrid),
food; the simple but well-executed Bahian menu at where there are connecting
Vila Naia — fish from the local fishermen, vegetables flights (about an hour) to Porto
from the hotel’s organic garden or from local farms, Seguro with Azul and LATAM.
flytap.com aireuropa.com
fruit grown nearby — can be ordered anywhere on the
oeazul.com latam.com
property, including the gardens, the pool, the restaurant
British Airways and LATAM fly
or your room. from the UK nonstop to Rio and
When it’s time to leave, my journey from Caraíva to Sao Paulo, where LATAM has
the airport is in a car and takes just four hours. I can’t connecting flights to Salvador.
help thinking that departing the same way I arrived ba.com
Southern Bahian roads are
would be a more fitting conclusion to my time here,
poor, and public transport
but I’m grateful for the chance to see the hinterland of
inefficient. From Trancoso to
southern Bahia. The dirt road runs through patches of
Caraiva you’ll need to organise a
jungle for two hours before it hits the highway, passing
road transfer — thereafter, on to
grazing Brahman cattle, coffee, pepper, and palm oil
Caraiva and Corumbau, expect
plantations — Monte Pascoal occasionally appearing on to rely on ferry boat, beach
the horizon — then edging past Itamaraju mountain, its buggy, horse and cart and taxi.
summit like a broken chunk of Cadbury Flake. Individual hotels, and tour
I realise that spending four hours in the back of a operators specialising in Brazil
car at the end of my trip is the best way to acclimatise can advise on the best routes.
properly after Corumbau — a fitting name, given it
means ‘distant place’ in the Pataxó language. When to go
Bahia, much like Rio, has sunny
On the way, my driver tells me that Vila Naia has
beach weather all year round.
suffered a dip in popularity since the helicopter and
Trancoso has two short rainy
small plane operators out of Porto Seguro ramped up seasons, from March-April and
Where to stay
Hotel Fazenda Calá & Divino.
divinoespelho.com.br
Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa.
uxua.com
More info
visitbrazil.com
vbrata.org.uk
Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon,
by Jorge Amado. RRP: £12.99.
(Bloomsbury Paperbacks).
This book paints a great picture
of Bahian society in the early
20th century.
Brazilian Adventure, by Peter
Fleming. RRP: £12.99 (TTP).
A light-hearted account of a
1930s expedition searching for
traces of lost British geographer
Percy Fawcett.
How to do it
DEHOUCHE offers a 10-night
package to southern Bahia
with four nights at Uxua Casa
Hotel & Spa, in Trancoso,
three nights at Le Paxa, in
Caraíva, and three nights at
Vila Naia Corumbau, in
Corumbau. It includes private
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

their prices. And travelling by road, of course, puts a lot November (the wettest month). transport and guiding (4x4,
of potential guests off. I’d hate to think that this corner In February, Trancoso hosts the horse and cart, canoe and
of the world would ever become completely isolated. Lemenja, and Festa de São Brás beach buggy); a private Bahian
Brazilians call Bahia the terra da felicidade — the ‘land festivals, with a classical music cooking class, a private
PREVIOUS PAGE:
of happiness’ — and, here at Corumbau, I’ve come to festival held in March. New Year capoeira class on the beach and
Coastline, Bahia
and Carnival (1-6 March 2019) return flights from Sao Paulo
understand what that really means. But, perhaps, you ABOVE: Beach buggy
celebrations are always raucous, from £2,459 per person.
have to make the long journey there to truly appreciate ride from Caraíva to
colourful affairs. dehouche.com
the ends of the Bahia earth. Corumbau

108 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 A HOMESTAY WITH THE
HILL TRIBES OF NORTHERN
THAILAND’S GOLDEN
TRIANGLE MEANS A TREK
THROUGH DENSE, COOL
FORESTS — AND A CHANCE
TO HONOUR THE SPIRITS OF
THESE REMOTE REACHES

WO R D S JA M E S D R AV E N
P H OTO G R A P H S S L AW E K KO Z D R A S

110 natgeotraveller.co.uk
May 2018 111
THAILAND
PREVIOUS PAGE: Guides
Sukham and Art on the
way to Ban Pha Mon
FROM LEFT: Sukham treks
through the jungle;
the villlage shaman
112 natgeotraveller.co.uk
oosters are terrible timekeepers. It was 1.15am
when the cockerel directly beneath me started
crowing and led a menagerie of ducks, pigs,
dogs, cats, geese and chickens on an all-night
cacophonous chorus. The Lahu people build
their houses on stilts, and all that separates me
from their farmyard below is the wafer-thin
slats of bamboo matting that precariously bends
underfoot, laid across a few support joists.
Between the planks of wood that make up my bedroom
walls, the first beams of daylight can be seen. They cast
rays of light on to the smoke that drifts into the room
from the kitchen fire, like a crude laser show, and dance
across the fine gauze of the mosquito nets that hang over a
huddle of mattresses on the floor.
This is not a sanitised, artificial experience set up to
entertain tourists. None of the four guests I’ve shared
this room with have slept all night, but there’s a sense of
serenity in this remote shack. It’s evident even as my host,
the mononymous Pichai, throws birdseed to the chickens
that congregate underneath my bed to the sound of a
clucking chaos that continues with renewed vigour.
We’re only a two-hour drive from backpacker paradise,
Pai, in northern Thailand, where narrow streets are full
of cheap restaurants peddling pad thai to gap-year kids
sporting meticulously braided dreadlocks. It’s also where
local tour companies advertise trips to see the Long Neck
Karen tribe. I’ve booked my hill tribe trekking experience
with an international tour operator, many of which refuse
to visit the Long Neck tribes — or the Padaung — due to
concerns over exploitation.
Padaung tribes represent a small subset of the Karen
people, who fled the military regime in Burma (now
Myanmar) and came to Thailand to seek sanctuary. The
women of the Padaung tribes famously wrap their necks
in brass coils, which compress their collarbones and ribs,
creating the illusion of having abnormally long necks.
Many organisations, including the UN, have since
claimed these refugee villages have become little more
than human zoos run by profiteering locals. They’re
descended upon by coachloads of holidaymakers, who
are presumably hoping for a cultural experience, but are
instead greeted by ersatz hill-tribe hamlets, which consist
almost entirely of gift shops and phoney photo ops. This
isn’t that kind of trip. Over the course of my three-day
THAILAND

May 2018 113

THAILAND

114 natgeotraveller.co.uk

I’VE NOT SEEN A SOLITARY TOURIST, OTHER THAN THE 12 PEOPLE THAT
CONSTITUTE MY HIKING GROUP... THESE VILLAGES ARE POPULATED
BY FARMERS AND WEAVERS: YOU CAN BUY GROCERIES OR TEXTILES
HERE, BUT NOT FRIDGE MAGNETS
trek to visit the remote Lahu hill tribe of the Ban Pha
Mon village, and onwards to the Karen settlement of Ban
Muang Pam, I’ve not seen a solitary tourist, other than
the 12 people that constitute my hiking group. There are
no roads big enough to accommodate coaches, and these
villages are populated by farmers and weavers: you can buy
groceries or textiles here, but not fridge magnets.
There are more than 200 hill tribe villages in this part
of northern Thailand. This is a geographically agnostic
borderland, where nomadic groups with ethnically
and culturally diverse backgrounds from China, Tibet,
Myanmar, and Laos once roamed, and used slash-and-burn
agricultural techniques to farm these heavily forested
lands. Today, though, the majority are Thai nationals.
“I’ve been to Thailand seven times before,” says fellow
hiker Barbara, a sturdy-looking German woman in her
early 30s who’s very much dressed for trekking. Blonde-
haired, blue-eyed, long-limbed, and decked out in hiking
gear, she looks every bit as if she’s about to shoot an Alpen
advert, but this clearly isn’t her usual holiday style.
“I’ve been to Bangkok, Phuket, Koh Samui, Koh Phi
Phi, Koh Chang, Koh Pha-ngan, Koh-Lanta, and Koh
Samet.” All the Kohs then. This is her first time in
northern Thailand, having, in seven visits, only ever seen
the south of the country.
There, golden Buddha statues are backed by cyan skies,
and aquamarine seas lap at dazzling white sands: a palette
slathered with typically tropical vibrance, overexposed
into hazy pastels by the sun’s glare. This is not that
Thailand. Up here, deep in the forest, viridescent vistas
darken to dappled bottle greens, deep soil umbers and
ochres, and twisted timbers speak of earthy fertility.
Our first day’s hike is just three hours long. We permeate
dense forest, weave between gigantic limestone boulders,
and pass pastures of onions, garlic, rice, and corn,
bordered by passion fruit vines, papaya trees, and baby
green aubergines that shine like peridot jewels.
CLOCKWISE: A boy in
STEP BY STEP
the shaman’s temple in
the Ban Pho Mon village;
The Lahu only congregate at their temple once each
early morning in the month. It’s an inauspicious looking structure: a bamboo
village; lunch packed in and timber shack on stilts, just like the rest of the village
banana leaves dwellings. Nearby, a clutch of vertical, white, feather-
THAILAND
like flags are stabbed into the earth beside an otherwise
identical building.
“That’s the shaman’s house,” says Namasue, a 47-year-
old matriarchal figure who is showing my group around
Ban Pha Mon village. “The white flags represent long life,
happiness, and purity.” The position as village shaman
— always male — is a lifelong one, elected by the former
incumbent on his deathbed.
The shaman remains as mystical and elusive as his
title suggests, leaving Namasue and her friend Sumalee,
who is shadowed by a three-year-old child, to lead us into
the temple. It’s unlit and looks exactly like my bamboo-
walled room, except for a nook that’s hung with white
flags and small clay offerings neatly organised on the
floor beneath.
“If you’re sick or have a problem,” Sumalee explains,
resplendent in traditional garb and looking younger
than her 37 years, “you buy a white flag to hang, you
dig up some clay, and you bring it to the shaman. He’ll
use it to diagnose the source of the problem, and give
you advice.” She adds: “I kept getting headaches, so I
brought some clay here to the shaman and he lit some
candles and spoke to our ancestors and, in the clay, saw
my very beginnings and my roots. From then on, I had
no more headaches,” she beams with the look of a child
on her birthday.
I ask if the little girl being scooped up in Namesue’s
arms is daughter to either of them, and they both
chuckle. “My daughter is 18 years old,” Sumalee
laughs. “She’s my granddaughter,” says Namesue. “I
have two sons and two grandsons, and now finally a
granddaughter. She’s the first girl in the family since me.
My son lives and works in Chiang Mai and his daughter
stays here with me. I never want to give her back.”
Sitting in a ramshackle, thatched temple next to the
house of the village shaman with no running water,
no electricity, and a communal toilet that — so far
from urban light pollution — offers pin-sharp views
of the stars at night, I’m a little surprised to learn that
Namesue’s son works in construction in the city, and her
daughter-in-law is a waitress.
“Of course,” says Sumalee, “if you stay in the village,
you have a lot of land and a big house, but no job. Last
year, one kilo of corn sold for three baht [seven pence],
so alternatively you can work in town, live in a one-room
May 2018 115
THAILAND
I’M THE ONLY ONE FEELING SELF-CONSCIOUS, ALTHOUGH THAT’S
PERHAPS BECAUSE I’M LOOKING ESPECIALLY LUDICROUS WEARING
GARMENTS TAILORED FOR A MORBIDLY OBESE OOMPA LOOMPA
place, with just a bed, a toilet and a microwave, and
return home each month with powdered milk for the
children, with food, and money.”
“Times are changing,” says Namesue. “We used to not be
allowed to marry outside of our tribe, but now one of the
girls from our village has even married a white man. He’s
English; she met him in town, and lives in the UK now.”
I’m especially aware of my own Englishness when, a
couple of hours later, after the sun has gone down and
the house in which I’m staying is lit only by the cooking
fire and our torches, the taciturn woman of the house,
Nalong, emerges from her bedroom, laden with folded,
intricately embroidered, multicoloured garments. I
wince as she offers them to me and my new housemates,
worried that I’m about to become part of a cringeworthy
tourist experience, despite being up in the dense
highland forests of the Thai-Myanmar borderlands. I
reluctantly take an outfit, realising the very fact that
she has one in my size — big enough to fit a 6’2”, barrel-
chested Westerner — confirms that this isn’t going to be
an entirely bona fide experience.
Outside in the dusty, unpaved, brick-red space that
forms a courtyard between dwellings, a bonfire is already
lit and women from the village encircle it, along with the
remainder of our hiking group who – the flickering amber
fire light reveals — have been similarly dressed by their
hosts. Although my tunic easily engulfs my body, and
the black velvet of the my trousers makes a 540-degree
circumnavigation of my waist, the four-inch wide,
colourfully stitched bands that hem the bottom of my
trouser-legs stop just below my knee, leaving my calves
completely exposed, like a skater boy’s.
Nevertheless, I join the rest of the group as they
gleefully mimic the Lahu women’s simple dance steps
that inevitably take an indirect route anticlockwise
around the campfire. Apparently, I’m the only one feeling
self-conscious, although that’s perhaps because I’m
looking especially ludicrous wearing garments tailored
for a morbidly obese Oompa Loompa.
“What does this dance signify?” I ask my tour guide,
Laksamee, who has appeared by my side in the circle and
taken my hand as we begin a kind of tribal hokey cokey.
“It’s to celebrate big occasions, like weddings and new
year,” she says. “And they do it when tourists come to
visit, which is every two weeks.”
116 natgeotraveller.co.uk
The second day’s hike is seven hours long, but much
less steep and sticky. The trail criss-crosses a stream
through the shade of a cool forest and, when it emerges,
expands to road width in places. Scooters occasionally
zoom past us regardless of the size and condition of
the track. As we close on our destination, signs of
sustainable farming and agricultural infrastructure
are present, from industrial dams to neatly laid-out
rice paddies.
“We’ve only been visiting the Lahu of Ban Pha Mon
for a couple of years,” says Laksamee, “and on my first
trek we had to flee back to the road because of a forest
fire they’d intentionally started to clear land. Ban Muang
Pam is nearer to Pai and a little more modern.”
As I enter the town I’m still surprised to find cement
roads with white lines, a local shop selling big-name
brands, and a mobile phone top-up station. After wearing
a head torch in bed the previous night, though, I’m mildly
pleased to see an electricity meter on the wall of Jit and
Nongkran’s house — my hosts for the night — although it
turns out there are no lights in my room and no running
water today.
HIGH SPIRITS
Nongkran winces as she takes a sip from the communal
cup that would look more at home filled with tea in a 1960s
kitchen than dripping with whisky. At least, that’s what the
locals in the Karen village of Ban Muang Pam are calling
the rice-wine firewater being passed around the group.
With screwed-up eyes, her face is a picture, framed by
a 1960s crochet hat and sharp Vidal Sassoon bob. With
her traditional, knitted, varicoloured overcoat, fending
off draughts imperceptible to the rest of us, she looks
as though she’s dressed for Carnaby Street throughout
the Swinging Sixties, except she’s in the mod era from
the neck up, and entirely flower power south of her
collarbones. Her clavicles are correctly located since this
is not a Long Neck village.
Her husband, Jit, is having no such trouble. This
traditional ceremony — performed twice a year to RIGHT: Inside a house
ask and give thanks for good health and an abundant in Ban Muang Pam
harvest, and whenever visitors come to stay — is clearly a NEXT PAGE:
good excuse for a party. The Pam River
THAILAND

May 2018 117


After dinner, sitting cross-legged on the concrete
patio that adjoins his house, Jit produces a tray of
offerings, laden with candles, eggs, tapered sticks of
sticky rice, and — of course — homemade rice wine,
and each of us has to take a bite of the offerings, and
a sip of moonshine. For every shot he pours for his
assembled friends and guests, he knocks back a cup
himself, appropriately with all the fuss and fanfare as if
he were downing a mug of builders’ brew.
Buddhism and Christianity have both come to
around 70% of the hill tribes of northern Thailand,
according to my guide, but even where adopted, these
religions merely supplement their animist beliefs and
traditional ancestor veneration. The Karen people
believe the spirits of their ancestors live on in their
homes, alongside them, and this traditional welcoming
ceremony is introducing us to the ghosts of their
forefathers. It seems that the most powerful method for
expelling spirits is by first consuming a lot of them.
“It’s so they don’t haunt you in your beds,” explains
Jit, bespectacled and looking like a Thai Harry Potter,
as he bangs on the edge of the metal tray. “By knocking
like this, we’re communicating with the ghosts of our
families. Then we share food with them, and drink the
THAILAND
rice wine with them, to introduce you as house guests,
so they won’t think you’re intruders and frighten you
away in the night.”
“It’s important we finish the bottle, though,” says Jit,
opening a second, and pouring himself another inch
of the spirit. Soon the rest of our group have returned
to their homestays to turn in for the night, but Jit and
Nongkran lead me into their lounge and, since it’s
devoid of furniture, sit and finish the second bottle,
watched over by a poster of the late King Rama IX, aka
Bhumibol Adulyadej.
“We loved the ninth king,” says Jit, as Nongkran
and our local guides, Archa and Sukham, down cups
of rice wine, and nod agreement in a reverential
reverie. “He gave us land and status. We used to be
nomadic and move around the jungle, but 57 years ago
the government came here and told us we could stay
and keep this land. Now we have electricity and two
schools. Back then there were only 18 families in this
village, now there are 600 people across 130 families.”
“Tourists have come here for a long time,” adds
Sukham, wearing a 1980s-style, geometrically-lined
ski jacket, despite the balmy evening. “Backpackers
would come from Pai on scooters, sometimes to try
May 2018 119
THAILAND
to buy opium, but things are different now. We have
a community union to manage tourism and spread
visitors over 18 homestays. The government and
tourism have done great things for our village. We no
longer fell trees, we farm sustainably, we recycle.”
“Tourism is a big help,” adds Jit, who explains that
his son has become a commercial electrician and
moved to Bangkok, while Jit and Nongkran look after
his young daughter. The next generation want more
than to be subsistence farmers, and Jit, who is a year
younger than his wife at 54, can no longer manage all of
their land by himself.
“Last year, I planted corn, and corn sells for nothing.
So this year I plant beans, and the corn price is now
high, then suddenly, unexpected rains ruin my bean
crops. I plant rice and I have to pray for rain. Tourists
come steadily and reliably, all year and give us a
reliable income.”
As I wearily make my excuses and decline yet
another cup of rice wine, and head off to bed, Nongkran
bids me goodnight and reminds me to take a moment
to thank the spirits for welcoming me before I go
to sleep.
After seven hours of hiking in the sunshine, seven
cups of moonshine, and seven minutes of sleep the
night before, it takes me about seven seconds to
fall asleep in my bed, and I neglect to thank our
ghostly hosts.
Perhaps that explains my bedroom creaking and
squeaking all night long, leaving me feeling like the
undead when morning rolls around. The polished
wooden floorboards bounce all-pervasive sunlight into
the last shadows of the night before. Maybe, despite
the reverential late-night boozing session, the village
ancients still perceive Western intruders in their
midst. But as a new dawn breaks, and the cockerel
crows — finally in sync with the current time — I spend
my last moments in the northern hills basking in the
warming rays of day, and in the company of my new
drinking buddies.
120 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ESSENTIALS
M Y A N M A R
THAILAND
Ban Muang Pam
Ban Pha Mon
Pai
Mae Hong Son
T H A I L A N D
Chiang Mai
50 Miles
Getting there & around
British Airways, EVA Air and Thai Airways operate
daily direct flights between Heathrow and
Bangkok. Flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai
operate with a number of carriers, including Thai
Airways, Bangkok Airways, Thai Smile and Nok Air.
ba.com evaair.com thaiairways.com nokair.com
bangkokair.com thaismileair.com
Transfers from Chiang Mai airport to the hotel
can be organised by G Adventures for around £10.
When to go
To avoid the crowds, October marks the end of the
rainy season with temperatures starting to drop.
November through to February is ideal for
trekkers, with warm days (20C-23C) and cool nights.
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
How to do it
G ADVENTURES has a five-day Northern Thailand
— Hilltribes Trek from £249 per person, excluding
flights. It includes four nights’ accommodation,
ABOVE: Wedding guests guides throughout, four breakfasts, three lunches,
enjoying moonshine in two dinners, open pickup truck and van transfers,
Ban Muang Pam plus trekking and rafting. gadventures.co.uk
©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection
and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

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 The bicycle island of
LA DIGUE
Time and tide lap gently on the sands of this small Seychelles island,
resting in the shade of tall palms and teased by calm whirlpools. Life’s
clamour slips away until it’s just you, your bike and the trail

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS TEAGAN CUNNIFFE

122 natgeotraveller.co.uk
May 2018 123
SEYCHELLES

124 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SEYCHELLES

Cars are still relative newcomers on the island, yet the local Diguois people and tourists still use
bicycles as the main means of transportation around the four-square-mile island, where a
crescent-shaped, undulating promenade hugs the shore. Cyclists pedal past free-roaming giant
tortoises, upmarket hotels, glittering bays and tropical jungle before being halted by a section of
wild, rugged coastline on the east coast that can only be accessed on foot.

May 2018 125

SEYCHELLES

“Come here!” calls Jules, beckoning us into his traditional creole cafe, which overlooks the sea.
Flecks of shell fly through the air with each solid thwack of the machete. He holds out a piece of
coconut dripping with juice. “This is for you.” At dusk, Keron offers a different refreshment at
Fruita Cabana Bar on Anse Source d’Argent, deftly mixing up cocktails to be sipped as the sun sets.

126 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SEYCHELLES

May 2018 127

SEYCHELLES

Early morning commuters gather for conversation in the shade of a tree. Houses here are simple and
colourful, and always have at least one bike resting out front. Bikes are left unlocked and untouched
— ‘know thy neighbour’ rings true on an island with a population of just 2,800. Roman Catholicism is
the dominant religion in the Seychelles — a shrine to the Virgin Mary on the northeast coast of the
island, tucked into an alcove along the promenade, bears witness to prayers and offerings.

128 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SEYCHELLES

May 2018 129

SEYCHELLES

Sheltered paths wind

seawards, snaking
through natural
granite formations.
On the southwest
coast, a monolithic
granite boulder
formed more than
750 million years ago
towers over an acre
of land. As the sun
disappears, so do
the crowds, leaving
the stretches of
beach empty once
again. Takamaka
trees rustle with the
sound of fruit bats
taking to the skies in
low swoops.

130 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

W E L C O M E T O

BERLIN
A
hub of history, art and music, visitors to Berlin have a wealth
of attractions to keep all ages entertained. The city’s blend of
cultures is rooted in its history; a past that’s moulded the city into
the cultural powerhouse it is today. For those who want to get the most
out of their visit, the Berlin WelcomeCard is essential. It gives holders
access to the city’s public transport network, savings of up to 50% on
more than 200 sights and a selection of diverse day plans . It would take a
lifetime to discover all of Berlin, but this jam-packed two-day plan gives a
taste of what’s on offer.

IMAGES: GETTY
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

DAY ONE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

Brandenburg Gate;
Berlin Cathedral; city skyline
MORNING with the TV Tower in
Start on a high, literally, and soak up panoramic views of the the background;
city from atop the 1,207ft-tall TV Tower on Alexanderplatz. Checkpoint Charlie
Built as an emblem of the communist system’s superiority, the
tower has become synonymous with the city, and the Berlin
WelcomeCard will get €3.50 (£3) off the entry fee. Wander
through the Nikolai quarter, past the Rotes Rathaus town hall,
before reaching Berlin Cathedral. The WelcomeCard gets a 25%
discount to this high-renaissance baroque building.

AFTERNOON
From the cathedral, a 15-minute walk brings you to
Gendarmenmarkt, Berlin’s most beautiful square and where
hearty fare at Bavarian-style Löwenbräu Brewery (with a
25% discount) will set you up for the afternoon. Next stop
is Checkpoint Charlie, but first take a short detour past the
Brandenburg Gate as well as the Memorial to the Murdered
Jews of Europe. Checkpoint Charlie makes for an excellent
photo opportunity, with the booth, flag and sandbags based
on the originals. Visitors get discounted entry to the on-site
museum, as well as to the nearby panorama installation, a
gigantic screen depicting life in 1980.

EVENING
Jump on the metro and head back up north for an evening of
opera, but not before having dinner at Brechts Steakhaus, with
a 25% discount, naturally. From here, it’s a gentle 15-minute
stroll to the Berlin State Opera. One of the most attractive
buildings on the boulevard, this neo-classical masterpiece was
Germany’s first free-standing opera house; the largest in Europe
at the time. Your WelcomeCard will ensure 25% off the ticket
prices, and shows range from classical to modern operas.

DAY TWO

MORNING
Indulge in some retail therapy today, and take the kids to some
of Berlin’s excellent family attractions. Begin at Bikini Berlin,
Germany’s first concept mall, where haute couture meets
one-off pop-up stalls. The roof terrace boasts epic views of Zoo
Berlin, where you’ll be heading next. The Berlin WelcomeCard
secures a 25% discount, and the newest recruits — two pandas
— will get a great reaction from adults and children alike.

AFTERNOON
Next, wander down the Kurfürstendamm boulevard, home of
top brands like Gucci, Chanel and Hermes. After you’ve had
your fill of shopping, jump on a tram and head north. Your final
destination is the Natural History Museum, with its jaw-dropping
t-rex skeleton, but en route, hop off the tram and wander through
Berlin’s gigantic sprawling park, Tiergarten. A €3 (£ 2.50) discount
at the museum will make your visit even more worthwhile. UPGRADE YOUR STAY
With the Berlin WelcomeCard, you save 25% on entry to
EVENING Zoo Berlin and up to 50% on around 200 attractions.
Enjoy an early dinner of French fare at Ganymed Brasserie (with
a 25% discount), situated on the Spree River and offering views Also, the Berlin WelcomeCard all inclusive gives you an
of the Reichtag building. End the day by taking a moonlit boat extra 30 free entries to Berlin’s top sights.
tour: Berlin Spree Cruise leaves from Friedrichstraße, close to berlin-welcomecard.com
the restaurant, every day at 6.30pm, plus you’ll get 25% off.
134 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 City life
COPENHAGEN
Copenhagen has long been a style capital — it even has laws
in place to keep its cafes looking cool. But beyond its chic
stylings, this open-minded city is one of the world’s happiest
WORDS: Ben Lerwill PHOTOGRAPHS: Ulf Svane

May 2018 135

COPENHAGEN
I As seen on TV // The
’m standing in the middle of Copenhagen
and there’s a naked 70-year-old woman
beaming at me. She’s just emerged from
one of the city’s open-air harbour baths,
stripped off her swimsuit and strolled
across the decking to the outdoor shower,
from where she’s now addressing me in
enthusiastic Danish.
I don’t speak a word of Danish, but having
just left the water myself, I reckon she’s
saying something like: “Well that was bloody
cold, but it’s woken me up.”
Two decades ago, swimming in
Copenhagen’s then-murky harbour was only
for the well immunised or the inebriated.
Since then, the waters have been cleaned
so comprehensively that there are now
dedicated al fresco bathing areas dotting the
harbourside, all of them fashioned in sleek,
streamlined, Scandi style.
If you take the plunge — once you stop
gasping at the water temperature — you can
glance north and south along the harbour
and see modernist cubes of glass, wood and
steel moulded into opera houses, libraries
and theatres. Copenhagen’s waterfront
proves just what can be achieved by city
planners in a relatively short space of
time. Pay serious attention to revamping
a polluted harbour, and before long it’s
all prize-winning architecture and bare
septuagenarian bottoms.
Denmark’s capital has become the urban
overlord of doing things the right way. They
call it the happiest city in the world. The
food’s amazing (but you knew that), everyone
cycles everywhere (but you knew that) and
there’s a sense of space that comes from
being somewhere committed to keeping
skyscrapers to a minimum. One of the
few tall structures on the skyline is a new
ultra-eco power plant designed to convert
household waste into clean energy. Once
fully open, its exterior will double as an all-
weather ski slope. It’s very Copenhagen.
So what’s the secret? Image-wise,
everything in recent years seems to have
136 natgeotraveller.co.uk
gone the city’s way. The omnipresence of
the Danish concept hygge has helped paint
it as a place of candlelit good times, while omnipresence of the Danish
Nordic noir series such as The Killing and The
Bridge have lent it an edgy, cinematic quality. concept hygge has helped paint
Its restaurants, residents and designers,
for their part, have turned it into one of the
it as a place of candlelit good
world’s coolest cities. times, while Nordic noir series
The first of my three nights here reflects
well on contemporary Copenhagen. I’m such as The Killing and The
having dinner at Gro Spiseri, a book-way-
ahead restaurant in the Østerbro district.
Bridge have lent it an edgy,
It’s reached via a long set of spiral stairs, cinematic quality
leading four floors up to a large rooftop
allotment where fairy lights are strung above
beds of greens and sunflowers. Here, I join
a dozen or so other diners and we’re led
through the gardens to a communal table in
a greenhouse-cum-restaurant.
I’m at one end of the table with three
members of the same Danish family, who
proceed to spend the rest of the night
speaking in English for my benefit, even
— and this is no word of a lie — when one
of them informs the others she’s pregnant.
We eat a succession of enjoyable dishes (the
standout: smoked organic pork neck, glazed
in honey from the rooftop beehive) and share
unfiltered pinot blanc.
I ask one of my companions what she
makes of the ‘world’s happiest city’ tag.
“Well, it’s true that people are comfortable,”
she explains, with annoyingly good second-
language clarity. “We pay a lot of taxes — the
basic rate is 39% — but it means public
infrastructure and living standards are
pretty high for everyone. We’re lucky.” PREVIOUS PAGE:
The evening stretches on, with the Nørrebro
chef introducing each course as though it ABOVE: Pickled and
were about to step on stage. I question my grilled Hokkaido
neighbour about hygge, and the fact that the pumpkin, Gro Spiseri
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE
word has become so widely adopted. “People
FROM TOP:
misunderstand it,” she laughs. “For us, it’s
Inderhavnsbroen bike
more than just ‘cosy’. You don’t need a woolly bridge between Nyhavn
jumper. It’s about fun, enjoyment, having a and Christianshavn;
relaxed time with other people.” She looks Nørrebro street; Gro
up and down the table, at the filled glasses Spiseri interior
COPENHAGEN

May 2018 137

COPENHAGEN

and chattering locals. “It’s this, in fact. We’re

good at it.”

THE RULES OF DESIGN

This isn’t my first time in Copenhagen. That
was almost 25 years ago, on an awkward,
ill-judged reunion with a Danish pen pal
I’d met on holiday. We went to look at the
Little Mermaid statue, and I’m fairly sure
we ate at McDonald’s. Other than my being
in a perpetual state of teenage woe, I don’t
remember much else.
I’ve been back to the city three or
four times since, in more agreeable
circumstances, and on every visit the extent
to which it’s morphed and modernised
becomes clearer. It’s almost easy to forget
quite how much history the place has.
What’s now known as Copenhagen was
first settled some time in the 11th century.
It quickly swelled in size and importance,
thanks in part to the copious quantities
of herring found just offshore — the fish,
which filled many a Viking belly, continues
to be a menu staple today. The settlement
subsequently grew so powerful that it
replaced Roskilde as the national capital in
1443, then enjoyed a golden period under
King Christian IV between 1588 and 1648,
an era when many of the city’s landmark
buildings were erected.
Since then? A few nasty fires, a couple of
full-blooded foreign attacks — including a
19th-century bombardment from the British
— a Nazi occupation and, more recently, a
gradual evolution into the kind of laid-back,
liberal-minded city that’s become very good
at just being itself. “Two things are really
valued above all else here,” I’m told by a
bartender in the busy Meatpacking District,
“culture and people.”
Predictably, I spend much of my time in
the city on two wheels. It’s deeply agreeable
to buzz around Copenhagen on a crisp
autumn day, joining waves of jolly scarfed
cyclists zooming along comfortably wide
bike lanes that skirt lakes, cross bridges
and funnel you from neighbourhood to
neighbourhood. I do a loop of the harbour
area, freewheel alongside the rectangular
lakes and pedal through the poplar-lined
Assistens Kirkegård cemetery — a space
that jogging, snack-chomping locals treat
as a public park that just happens to have
graves in.
The cemetery sits in Nørrebro, which
is these days the most fashionable inner-
city area of the lot. Its terraces of high
townhouses look down on streets of craft
beer bars and vinyl stores. I walk up one,
Jægersborggade, and stop at a place named
— aptly, as it turns out — Damn Good Coffee.
“We actually have laws against the crap
you find in some cities,” the barista explains.
“In Copenhagen you’re not allowed to use
white plastic furniture or branded ashtrays,

138 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 COPENHAGEN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: Cobbled street,
Freetown Christiania;
Assistens Kirkegård;
painted watering can,
Freetown Christiania

May 2018 139

COPENHAGEN
Barter economy // It’s
a paid-for tour, although
in an initiative that’s as
quintessentially Copenhagen
as they come, it’s also possible
to arrange a free two-hour
kayak rental if you agree to
collect any rubbish you pass
ABOVE: Copenhagen
rooftops
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT: Brus
interior; statues,
Louisiana Museum of
Modern Art; floor-to-
ceiling window, Louisiana
Museum of Modern Art
140 natgeotraveller.co.uk
and you won’t find a Carlsberg umbrella
anywhere. At Christmas, it’s white fairy
lights only. Personally, I just like the fact that
someone in power cares enough.”
There are various emblems of Copenhagen
— the tastefully twinkling Tivoli Gardens
theme park, the photogenic row of coloured
quay houses on Nyhavn, the green-copper
spires of the churches and palaces — but
none have done as much to push the city
forward as the restaurant often lauded as the
world’s best. It has two syllables, a bonkers
menu and a reputation that straddles two
decades. Step forward Noma.
By the time you read this, Noma 2.0
will have opened, complete with its own
urban farm, after the original was closed
voluntarily in early 2017 in order to ‘continue
progress’. You’ll probably have to vault
through flaming hoops to get a table, but
that’s not the point. Noma as a phenomenon
has influenced Copenhagen’s dining scene to
profound effect. Alumni of its kitchens now
work in design-conscious restaurants across
the city, ensuring no mushroom remains
unforaged and no plum unfermented.
It’s easy — hefty Scandinavian prices
notwithstanding — to get swept up in it
all. I eat at Restaurant Barr, which occupies
the space where Noma used to be. It’s all
artisan beers, dry-aged beef and wild green
strawberries — the kind of meal that leaves
you thinking about what you’ve eaten. I also
have dinner at Brus, a Nørrebro brewpub
where the menu is in English only, despite
the bar being packed with Danes. The fried
bone marrow with Brussels sprouts is best
described as infinitely nicer than it sounds.
Even when I lunch at one of the most
traditional restaurants in the city, Aamanns
1921, the open-faced rye sandwiches arrive on
the table with herring that’s been marinated
for nine months and every last herb garnish
has been tousled into place. The homemade
schnapps is potent, and the salt and pepper
shakers (of all things) have me cooing at
the fluidity of their design. If it sounds as if
I’m getting carried away, then I’m guilty as
charged. But Copenhagen can do that to you.
ONLY FREEDOM IS HOLY
With a weaving network of lakes and canals
feeding into the long inlet of the harbour,
water is never far away in this city. It seems
appropriate, then, to spend a morning
taking a guided tour by kayak. It’s a paid-
for tour, although in an initiative that’s as
quintessentially Copenhagen as they come,
it’s also possible to arrange a free two-hour
kayak rental if you agree to collect any
rubbish you pass.
I follow Kirsten, my guide, as she paddles
past the angular, modern landmarks of the
Royal Danish Playhouse and the Copenhagen
Opera House. She steers under a 590ft-long
retractable bridge, which opened in 2016
purely for cyclists and pedestrians, then
points out an old naval dock reinvented as a
cutting-edge apartment block. From the water,
the city seems, if anything, even sleeker.
I ask Kirsten what she loves most about
living in Copenhagen, and she adjusts her
kayak to face me. “Honestly?” she grins, as I
ready myself for yet another reason to envy
the place. “If you want the truth, I don’t like
living here. It’s too crowded for me — I grew
up in the countryside. I can’t wait to leave.”
City life may not be for everyone, but with
a population density less than half that of
London, Copenhagen can’t help but feel
less crowded, less hectic — and friendlier
too. After all, the thought of chatting to (and
publicly getting naked with) strangers would
be beyond the pale for many Londoners.
Yet, if you still find yourself wanting to
escape Copenhagen for a few hours, you’ll
find the perfect place just 25 miles away,
reached by a predictably punctual half-hour
train ride from Central Station. I arrive at
the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art one
morning at opening time and head straight
out to its sculpture gardens, which give wide-
open views across the water of the Øresund
Sound. Sweden is just visible on the horizon.
COPENHAGEN

May 2018 141

COPENHAGEN

Copenhagen
DENMARK

ven
s
Assistens

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rha
Cemetery

La

Yd e
ne
Indre By Opera

er
House

So
Royal Danish
Playhouse

Tivoli Christiania
Gardens
Meatpacking

en
District

av
rh
500 yards

de
In
ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
SAS flies to Copenhagen from Aberdeen,
Birmingham, Edinburgh, Heathrow, Newcastle and
Manchester; Ryanair from Stansted and Luton;
British Airways from Heathrow; EasyJet from
Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Luton and
Manchester; and Norwegian from Edinburgh and
Gatwick. flysas.com ryanair.com ba.com
easyjet.com norwegian.com
Bike hire is widely available, with many hotels
offering their own rental bikes. Elsewhere, trains,
buses, water buses and a metro system make
getting around straightforward.

When to go
Copenhagen is a year-round destination. The city
can get very crowded during the peak months of
July and August. Spring and autumn are quieter, so
Freetown Christiania
make for a more relaxed break. If you visit during
the winter, wear plenty of layers.

The museum gets praised for its finely
calibrated combination of art, architecture
and landscape, and rightly so; in one
gorgeous room a Giacometti sculpture and a
Francis Bacon painting stand by a floor-to-
ceiling window looking out onto a lake. The
near silence of the rolling lawns and gallery
spaces stands in contrast to the chatter-filled
bars of the capital.
The more we hear about Copenhagen
being a model city, the more it feels as if the
urban planners responsible for its future
are striving for true perfection. There’s an
aim for it to become the first carbon-neutral
capital on the planet by 2025, and already
around 90% of the food served at its schools
and nursing homes is organic. That said, if
you come here expecting everything to be
eco-initiatives, sharp design and New Nordic
cuisine, the city still holds some surprises.
In Freetown Christiania, part of the
central Christianshavn district, walls are
spray-painted with one-world slogans, while
semi-legal stalls heaped with bags of weed
attract a steady stream of tourists and locals.
A sign reads: ‘Only Freedom Is Holy’.
This one-time military base, situated
within the city but famously a self-declared
autonomous district, isn’t the Copenhagen
you see in the adverts, but once you venture
beyond the crowds and the sound systems,
it’s an almost serene community of canalside
woodland and quirky, tucked-away houses.
Approximately 1,000 people live here
in Freetown Christiania. It has a dodgy
reputation in some quarters — mainly
because of the drugs — but there’s a jazz
club, a bike hire outlet and a great metalwork
gallery-cum-workshop. The district
emphasises its individuality as you leave with
a placard that states: ‘You are now entering
the EU’. “[Christiania] has more in common
with Copenhagen than people think,” I’m told
later by an Irish expat working in Nørrebro.
“They’re both open-minded. You think
somewhere like that would be allowed to exist
in Dublin or London?”
Perhaps Copenhagen’s secret is simply
that it works. Creating something bold and
cohesive from a jumble of ingredients isn’t
just a trait of its chefs or designers — it
applies to the city as a whole.
Places mentioned
Gro Spiseri. grospiseri.dk
Restaurant Barr. restaurantbarr.com
Brus. tapperietbrus.dk
Aamanns 1921. aamanns.dk
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. en.louisiana.dk
Kayak Republic. kayakrepublic.dk
Where to stay
Absalon Hotel. absalon-hotel.dk
Hotel Danmark. brochner-hotels.dk/hotel-danmark
More information
visitcopenhagen.com
visitdenmark.co.uk
How to do it
SUPERBREAK has two nights’ accommodation,
room only, at the Crowne Plaza Copenhagen
Towers with return flights from Stansted from
£225 per person. superbreak.com
KIRKER HOLIDAYS has three nights’ B&B at the
five-star Nimb with flights from Heathrow, private
transfers and guide notes, from £1,498 per person.
kirkerholidays.com

142 natgeotraveller.co.uk
MATTERHORN GLACIER RIDE.
Switzerland’s latest mountain attraction for thrill-seekers
An absolute must-see in Switzerland is undoubtedly the
Matterhorn near the world-class resort of Zermatt. It is one
of the world’s best-known mountains thanks to its striking
shape and the tragic story of the first ascent. And no cable-
way brings you closer and more thrillingly to this Swiss
landmark than the new “Matterhorn glacier ride”.
After nearly three years’ construction work, the Matterhorn
glacier ride – the world’s highest 3S cableway – is set to open
in autumn 2018. The ultramodern lift will soon be whisking
guests from near and far up to nearly 4000 metres in about
eight minutes. The spacious cable cars with panorama
windows offer a unique view of the Breithorn glacier and the
majesty of the surrounding alpine panorama. One or another
of the cable cars will ensure a particularly thrill-packed ride.
Something to look forward to!
High alpine spectacle
When you reach the Matterhorn glacier paradise (Klein
Matterhorn) at 3883 metres, you will be at Europe’s highest
mountain station. All around is a spectacular mountain world
of ice, rock and snow. On the panorama deck, you will be
greeted by a fresh breeze of mountain air and enjoy the
breath-taking panorama of 38 four-thousand-metre peaks, 14
glaciers, and three countries. And that’s not all: at Matterhorn
glacier paradise you can take a tour through the glacier palace,
immersed in a world of ice. The stunning figures on display in
the glacier palace include marmots, wolves, eagles, dragons
and many other artistic creations which are freshly carved on
a regular basis by the ice sculptors. Your experience of im-
mersion in the eternal ice is rounded off with a walk through a
glacier crevasse. Further attractions include the modern Cinema
Lounge offering pure movie pleasure. Film clips shimmer
from the silver screen, showing a range of subjects, including
mountaineering, the alpine world and flora and fauna. And the
restaurant and Peak Shop are also always worth a visit. Large
panoramic windows offer a magnificent high-alpine vista,
while the open show kitchen invites guests to see their meals
being prepared.
InfoCube
After an eventful stay at the summit, the Matterhorn glacier
ride will deliver you safe and sound and in comfort back to
Trockener Steg where a visit to the InfoCube beckons. You’ll
find detailed information on the spectacular and demanding
construction work on the world’s highest 3S cableway, as well
as an insight into the state-of-the-art installation.
Visit matterhornparadise.ch for some exciting ideas to inspire
you to join us this summer in Zermatt.
 City life
PHILADELPHIA
ZZ
Z

Philadelphia may have been a seat of the American Revolution, but

there’s still a rebellion simmering. This time it’s hedonistic, and playful
experimentation is challenging norms in gastronomy, art and culture
WORDS: Stephanie Cavagnaro PHOTOGRAPHS: Wesley Verhoeve

B
ody parts are everywhere: an unblinking eye sizes
me up from the floor, lips pout from the wall and
bare breasts are plastered overhead.
“This was a woman who was stalking me for two
years,” laughs Isaiah Zagar, whose boho ensemble belies
his years. We’re surrounded by his outlandish oeuvre:
a labyrinth of multicoloured mosaics made of bottles,
bicycle wheels and shards of broken mirror, spread
across every inch of Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens
— a fitting name for this enchanting art gallery.
“There are many people who get involved with
something in their environment that they feel they can
work with — make something with. Maybe it starts
out small, but then it becomes this passion that’s just
unstoppable, and they give up everything to continue,”
Isiah enthuses. “They’re obsessed. They’re possessed.
I’m possessed. I have to work at this every day.”
It’s this unbound innovation and imagination that
courses through Philadelphia’s veins — the United
States of America was born here in 1776; and it’s since
been the seat of the country’s first newspaper, medical
school, hospital and zoo. And while that may make it
sound like the City of Brotherly Love considers its past
accommplishments as its glory days, think again.
“The city’s going through a renaissance right now,”
says James, my waiter at Zahav, as I spoon creamy
paprika hummus onto freshly baked laffa bread. “And
not a lot of people know about Philly.” Eschewing the
still-ubiquitous pasta-and-pizza joints, chefs like Zahav’s
Michael Solomonov are expanding the city’s epicurean
offerings, while strict liquor laws have bred a prospering
BYOB culture. A zanier bring-your-own spot I visit is
Pizza Brain, which houses the world’s largest collection of
pizza memorabilia, and slings slices with tough-to-beat
toppings such as blue cheese, brisket and horseradish.
Unsurprisingly, the restaurant is in Kensington, an
area — along with Fishtown — whose recent regeneration
has brought with it bars, boutiques and bistros. Throw
in a vibrant waterfront that crowds with pop-up food
and drink stands in summer, a recent bike-sharing
programme with 70 stations across the city and a brand
new world-class museum, and it’s clear Philly is emerging
from the shadow of New York and DC as a cultural
powerhouse with bags of quirk and confidence.

144 natgeotraveller.co.uk
May 2018 145
PHILADELPHIA

146 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHILADELPHIA

SEE & DO
READING TERMINAL MARKET:
This 125-year-old market is a homage to
Pennsylvanian produce. Source a slice
of buttery Cabot Clothbound cheddar
from Valley Shepherd Creamery; nibble
spicy venison sticks from Smucker’s,
or scoff a buttercream-filled whoopie
pie from the Amish-run Beiler’s Bakery.
readingterminalmarket.org
INDEPENDENCE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK:
The good ole USA was born here, and this
park packs a punch with icons including
the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall,
where the Declaration of Independence was
signed. Nearby is City Tavern, a replica of the
pub frequented by the oft-thirsty Founding
Fathers. nps.gov citytavern.com
BARNES FOUNDATION: Soak up one of the
world’s largest collections of impressionist,
post-impressionist and early modern
paintings. It’s all the more surprising
that the 900-strong haul of Cézannes,
Van Goghs, Matisses and Picassos was
owned by one man — Dr Albert Barnes.
barnesfoundation.org
PHILADELPHIA’S MAGIC GARDENS: Artist
Isaiah Zagar has been covering the walls of
this 3,000sq ft indoor and outdoor space
— along with various surfaces around South
Street — with a kaleidoscopic array of murals
made of recycled accoutrements, such as
bike wheels and bottles. It’s a mad-as-a-
hatter wonderland. phillymagicgardens.org
MUTTER MUSEUM: Disturbingly informative,
and not for sensitive stomachs. Medical
curiosities include President Grover
Cleveland’s tumour, pieces of Einstein’s
brain, a book bound by human skin and a
corpse that turned into soap.
muttermuseum.org
MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION: EAT Pop in // Philly’s
Having opened its doors last April, this is JOHN’S ROAST PORK: Cheesesteak
the latest museum to join Philly’s already may get all the attention in Philly, but the drinking culture
outstanding cultural line-up. Dedicated roast pork deserves some love too. Head
to America’s founding, it’s full of objects, to South Philadelphia to this bare-bones flourishes in summer
manuscripts and theatres that create a
chronological journey from the roots
joint, where patrons order a crusty ‘hoagie’
piled with roast pork, sharp provolone and
— annual pop-ups
of conflict to the making of a nation. garlicky greens. johnsroastpork.com include Independence
amrevmuseum.org STANDARD TAP: This is what the city
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART: Run up the is all about — a laid-back gastropub in Beer Garden, the
Rocky Steps to this Parthenon-like pile,
the third-largest art museum in the United
Northern Liberties with a 20-strong tap
devoted to local breweries, plus sublime pub
twinkly Spruce Street
States. And its collection really is exhaustive: grub. Highlights include a juicy Lancaster Harbor Park and the
it spans Renaissance and American art Angus beef burger with muenster cheese
to impressionist and modern pieces with or jerk goat sausages with coconut-braised Bok Bar rooftop
work by the likes of Dali and Duchamp. black beans. standardtap.com
philamuseum.org ZAHAV: The first in chef Michael
MURAL ARTS: What began as an anti-graffiti Solomonov’s mini-restaurant empire, this
initiative has spawned one of the world’s buzzy Israeli joint is king of small plates. Try
largest outdoor art galleries. There are up to the chicken liver with fig and Fresno chilli or
PREVIOUS PAGE: Exterior of Saint
100 new public art projects each year with the tehina (tahini) topped with cumin, garlic
Lazarus Bar next to the elevated Girard
nearly 4,000 murals already on display and lemon, perfect scooped up with freshly station stop, Fishtown
— check out some of this sprawling street art baked laffa bread. It was so good I even CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pizza Brain;
by booking a walking or trolley tour. bought the chef’s cookbook. Zahav; Philadelphia Museum of Art;
muralarts.org zahavrestaurant.com outside Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens

May 2018 147

PHILADELPHIA

148 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHILADELPHIA

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Di Bruno Bros counter; statue

of George Washington outside Independence Hall;
exterior of Standard Tap
FOLLOWING PAGE: Philadelphia Brewing Company sign

Z SLEEP
ZZ
LA RESERVE BED & BREAKFAST:
It’s easy to confuse La Reserve with a
favourite old aunt’s place — head inside the
red-brick, 19th-century townhouse and there’s
a baby grand for nimble-fingered pianists,
board games in the sitting room, homemade
cookies each afternoon and playfully
patterned rooms. lareservebandb.com
KIMPTON HOTEL PALOMAR: Effortlessly
cool, in a 1929 black-and-gold art deco tower,
just off Rittenhouse Square. The stylish
rooms look out across the rooftops and free
wine hours are held amid Day-Glo portraits
and pop art busts of Benjamin Franklin.
hotelpalomar-philadelphia.com
THE RITZ-CARLTON: The Greek
Doric columns of the facade could well
be mistaken for a temple — and beyond is
one of the most luxurious hotels in Philly.
Sexed-up suites come with views of the City
Hall clock tower, the spa offers treatments
including a hibiscus and honey wrap, and the
elegant interiors feature gilt chandeliers and
coffered ceilings. ritzcarlton.com

BUY
HOOF AND ANTLER: It’s like walking
into an ancient explorer’s study, brimming
with bizarre tchotchkes like a taxidermied
deer head and South African porcupine
quills, plus fading scientific journals and a
rusting first aid kit from the 1920s. There’s
great vintage clothing, but the curiosities are
simply wonderful. hoofandantler.com
DI BRUNO BROS: This Philly institution now
has five locations touting gourmet goods.
With their own blend of coffee, signature
cheeses such as pinot grigio and fig,
Hawaiian black lava sea salt cashews, and
provolone- and prosciutto-stuffed peppers,
this is the spot to pick up edible gifts.
dibruno.com
VAGABOND: This lovely little indie boutique
sells women’s clothing against a backdrop
of exposed brick and chunky wooden tables.
Located in Old City, where the shopping is
fantastic, this place sells handmade vintage,
the shop’s own line of clothing plus pieces
from designers including Bario Neal and
Rachel Comey. vagabondboutique.com

May 2018 149

PHILADELPHIA

LIKE A LOCAL
FIRST FRIDAY: On the first Friday of
each month, more than 40 galleries in the Old
City and neighbourhoods including Fishtown
open their doors from 5-9pm. In the summer,
there are also artists’ workshops, pop-up
installations and music. oldcitydistrict.org
BYOB: Raise a glass to the city’s strict liquor
laws — there are now dozens of restaurants
serving top-notch cuisine without the booze
markup. Helm is one of the best, offering
‘locally farmed vegetables and properly
raised meats’, while the seasonally focused
Will BYOB has playfully themed tasting
menus. willbyob.com helmphilly.com
SPRUCE STREET HARBOR PARK: This is a local
haunt in summer, when colourful hammocks
spread near the boardwalk, lanterns dangle
from trees and punters get in line for a series
of pop-ups, including craft beer and stands
selling tacos, hot dogs and doughnuts.
May-September. delawareriverwaterfront.com

AFTER HOURS
FRANKLIN BAR: This subterranean
speakeasy is lined with burgundy booths and
peppered with bartenders mixing a frequently
changing list of $15 (£11) cocktails. They’re
worth the price — my favourite was the Spry
Friar (Plymouth gin, pineapple, lemon, honey
and absinthe). thefranklinbar.com
TRIA TAPROOM: True to its moniker, there are
no bottles at the bar — just 24 draft beers and
cider. Pair it with a grilled flatbread piled with
fennel sausage and smoked mozzarella, and
take in the industrial vibes of blackened steel
and exposed brick. triaphilly.com

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

PHILADELPHIA BREWING COMPANY: You’re
likely to find PBC on draught across the
city, but why not drink from the source?
This red-brick warehouse serves beers like
Walt Wit (named after American poet Walt
Whitman) or seasonal Kenz O’ Lantern, a
dark pumpkin ale. Free tours on Saturdays.
philadelphiabrewing.com

ESSENTIALS 500 yards

Philadelphia
Getting there & around unpredictable and can be very cold with high snowfall, Kensington
UNITED
There are direct flights from Heathrow to Philadelphia averaging around -3C in January. STATES
with American Airlines, Delta and British Airways, OF
AMERICA
which will increase its flight schedule to 10 flights per More info
week from April. aa.com delta.com ba.com philadelphiausa.travel Fishtown
Philadelphia
AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 7h 45m. discoverphl.com Museum of Art
Sc

BE
The city centre is walkable, or accessible using services uwishunu.com N
hu

er
JA
from SEPTA (subways, trains, trolleys and buses), which PA MIN
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Philadelphia & the RK F P H ILADELPHIA iv
yl
ki

W RA
operates a train from the airport with several stops Pennsylvania Dutch Country. RRP: £13.99
R

AY NK
ll Riv

re

LI
downtown. Taxis are also plentiful. septa.org N
wa

Old
How to do it
er

Dela

City
When to go AMERICA AS YOU LIKE IT has four nights from £755 per Rittenhouse
Square Independence
The city’s parks and outdoor spaces are at their best person including return flights on British Airways from Hall
Spruce Street
during summer, when temperatures are in the mid-20s, Heathrow and four nights at the DoubleTree by Hilton Philadelphia’s
Magic Gardens Harbor Park
while spring and autumn are also pleasant. Winters are Hotel Philadelphia Center City. americaasyoulikeit.com

150 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

WELCOME TO GUATEMALA
Heart of the Mayan world
Discover the cradle of the Mayan world: a fascinating land that offers activity and adventure alongside culture
and colour. Squeezed into the heart of Central America, Guatemala offers one of the most diverse experiences in
the entire region. Indigenous cultures live alongside bustling modern cities, coast and rainforest dominate the
landscape, and ancient history and adventure travel add a dash of colour to travellers’ itineraries

MOTHER NATURE
Between its Pacific and Caribbean coasts, a dense, jungly heart brims with rich flora and
fauna, ranging from the elusive jaguar to the deafening roar of the howler monkey. National
parks sprawl across the green landscape, the forests peppered with vast lakes, such as the
picture-perfect Atitlán, and dramatic volcanoes that pierce the skies.
 DON’T MISS
PEOPLE
POWER
It’s not just the
natural world that
lures visitors to its
shores. The mix
of cultures and
languages that lives
in Guatemala makes
the destination truly
special. This is the
heart of the Mayan
world, a civilisation
whose traditions
live on in highland
towns and villages,
not least in the
modern cities and
iconic ruins that dot n ANCIENT WONDERS
the landscape. Also, Head to the Petén region,
discover Garifuna where you’ll discover Tikal
culture in the Izabal — a spectacular Mayan city
Department, where that has been a designated
the punta rhythms UNESCO World Heritage
are the soundtrack Site since 1979. Its ancient,
to a vibrant, Afro- evocative ruins are one of the
Caribbean-inspired country’s must-see attractions
style of cuisine.
n CITY LIVING
Discover Guatemala City
— the thriving capital that
blends history and modernity,
with plenty of museums,
galleries and cultural
GET ACTIVE highlights — while Antigua
If adventure’s your thing, you’re well catered for; thrill- Guatemala dazzles with its
seekers will be in their element in the wild and wondrous colourful, colonial flourishes
Guatemalan landscape. Adrenalin-fuelled activities,
such as treks through the forest and whitewater n CREATURE COMFORTS
rafting, will be top of bucket lists, with diving and Set off into the green heart of
surfing on the coast, and zip-lining through the the country to experience the
jungle canopies, also on offer to raise the pulse of rich and varied wildlife: expect
even the most hardened adventure traveller. everything from armadillo
and toucan to miniscule
tree frogs. Here you can also
hike a volcano, such as the
challenging Pacaya

n BACK TO NATURE
Switch off from daily life
with a natural experience in
Semuc Champey: a series of
natural pools surrounded
by lush tropical forest and
spectacular views

FEED YOUR INSPIRATION AT n HANDICRAFTS

vi s i t g u a t e m ala . c o m Craftsmanship is one of
fa c e b o o k . c o m/ vi s i t g u a t e m ala the country’s most original
@ vi s i t g u a t e m ala and authentic expressions.
@ vi s i t g u a t e m ala _ Experience colourful
IMAGES: GETTY

Yo uTub e : vi s i t g u a t e m ala embroidery as well as

jewellery and ceramics
 ASK THE
EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP?
ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL
GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…
Q // I love hiking The landscape of Scandinavia
changes from the gentle
and fancy a trip to countryside of southern Sweden
Scandinavia. Where to the loft y mountain peaks of
should I go for a great northern Norway. For outdoor
enthusiasts and nature lovers
walking holiday? there are few places in the
world with such appeal, and
with scenery that’s so easy on
the eye. I love the fjord region
of Norway for walking and my
favourite destination is the
Hardangerfjord, a sentiment
shared with Queen Sonja of
Norway who chooses to hike
here annually. From gentle
strolls through the
fruit orchards lining
the shore, to the
strenuous HM
Queen Sonja’s
Panoramic
Hiking Trail,
there’s
something
154 natgeotraveller.co.uk
for every level of hiker. You
can even try hiking on the
Folgefonna glacier. I recommend
our itinerary, Walking in the
Hardangerfjord (from £1,498 per
person), as a brilliant way for
walkers to explore this beautiful
region. sunvil.co.uk
RACHEL JELLEY
The Norwegian fjords offer
spectacular hiking opportunities,
and one of the best places to
break in your boots is Bergen.
Take the Fløibanen funicular from
the city centre to the summit of
Mount Fløyen, where
walks range from
an easy two-mile
forest amble to a
more challenging
six-mile circuit in
the Våkendalen
valley. Next,
take the train
from Bergen to Voss, followed
by a bus towards Gudvangen,
stopping near the Hotel Stalheim,
a superb base for hiking in the
UNESCO World Heritage Site of
Nærøyfjord — a breathtaking
11-mile-long inlet, narrowing to
just 1,600ft in parts. Start with
beautiful fjordside strolls, then
tackle the two-hour hike to Nåli
high above the valley, following
a well-marked trail past farms
and waterfalls. For a different
perspective of the fjords, take
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
a boat trip along Nærøyfjord to
reach the village of Flåm where
you can combine the famous
Flåm Line mountain railway with
a walk back down to the shores of
Sognefjord. Our five-night Walk
Bergen and Beyond itinerary is
available May to September and
costs from £826 per person.
discover-the-world.co.uk
CLIVE STACEY
Q // Where’s a good
remote spot that I
can camp in along
the UK’s coast?
Q // Am I being
charged for damage
to a rental car that
I didn’t cause?
Q // Is it safe to visit Chernobyl?
Discovering Chernobyl’s Exclusion
Zone is certainly achievable —
with the help of a specialist tour
operator. Approximately 50,000
tourists safely visited the area
last year, despite concerns over
radiation levels caused by the 1986
nuclear disaster.
“Visiting the Exclusion Zone is
no more dangerous than anywhere
else if you follow your guide’s
instructions,” says Serhii Uzlov,
For that real ‘end of the earth’
location it’s worth making the extra
effort to take a ferry from mainland
Britain. The Outer Hebrides are
home to some of the UK’s most
isolated settlements and have a
fascinating history, with Neolithic
stone circles, Viking burial
chambers and medieval churches
to absorb your time. Hebridean
communities cooperatively own
many of the best campsites, such
as Cnip Grazing on the Isle of Lewis;
a basic croft-cum-campsite with a
handful of tent pitches among the
A recent investigation by Which?
Travel found car hire companies
overcharging customers
for repairs, sometimes by
extortionate amounts. One driver
was stuck with a bill of more than
£1,000 for a windscreen chip
which an independent mechanic
assessed as a £35 repair. In 10 of
the 12 instances of overcharging
Which? investigated, the
customer didn’t believe the
damage had occurred during their
rental. It’s probable that it could
be because car hire companies
often don’t carry out the repairs
customers pay for. Avis, Budget
and Hertz all admitted repairs
aren’t always made immediately,
Chernobyl expert and guide for
small-group adventure operator,
Explore. “The maximum time
permitted to stay is five days, but
that can be extended with special
permission.”
Visitors are screened for
radioactive particles upon entering
and exiting the 19-mile Exclusion
Zone around reactor number
four. They’re advised on what
they can and can’t touch, and
dunes of Traigh na Beirigh
Bay. It’s worth noting, however,
that it’s still possible to feel
isolated without the air miles,
particularly if you look for
woodland camping locations and
tiny, off-grid campsites closer to
home. My favourite is Smugglers
Cove Campsite in North Wales.
It feels utterly remote, the tidal
waters of the Dyfi Estuary run right
up to your tent and your view is
of the bird-dotted RSPB Ynys-hir
Nature Reserve. coolcamping.com
JAMES WARNER SMITH
that they wait until multiple
repairs are required at a later date
or to sell the car on. That means
customers could be footing
the bill for a scrape caused by a
previous driver.
To avoid this, inspect the car
inside out at pick up, taking
pictures of any damage — even
tiny scuff s and scratches — and
noting them with the rep. For
disputes over damage, refer
complaints to the BVRLA for UK
rentals, and the European Car
Rental Conciliation Service for
elsewhere in the EU. Read Which?
Travel’s investigation at
which.co.uk/carhireripoff
RORY BOLAND
THE EXPERTS
which buildings they can and can’t
enter. It’s even possible to spend
the night at a basic hotel in the
Exclusion Zone, 12 miles from the
power plant. There are no FCO
warnings in place for travelling
to Chernobyl, and visitors don’t
require specific travel insurance.
Explore offers a four-night
Discover Chernobyl short break
from £829 per person. explore.co.uk
FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
health corner
Q // What are the health
risks of air pollution
in India?
Rising levels of air
pollution concern us all;
the WHO estimates the
combined effects of air
pollution cause about two
million premature deaths
worldwide every year.
Major air pollutants include:
carbon monoxide, ozone,
sulphur dioxide, nitrogen
oxide and particulate
matter from vehicles,
industry and air travel.
THE RISKS: Short-term
symptoms include coughing,
wheezing, nausea and
headaches, but air pollution
can have longer-term effects
such as lung cancer, heart
attacks and strokes.
GET INFORMED: Take
heed of local air quality
information and try to avoid
excessive exercise in heavily
congested urban areas.
Also, consider packing a
surgical face mask.
DR PAT GARROD
RACHEL JELLEY //
MARKETING MANAGER,
SUNVIL
CLIVE STACEY //
MANAGING DIRECTOR AND
CO-FOUNDER, DISCOVER
THE WORLD
RORY BOLAND //
EDITOR, WHICH? TRAVEL
FARIDA ZEYNALOVA //
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER (UK)
JAMES WARNER SMITH //
EDITOR, COOL CAMPING
GUIDEBOOKS
DR PAT GARROD //
THEWORLDOVERLAND.COM
May 2018 155
TRAVEL GEEKS

2 16
The year hikers were banned from trekking
on New Zealand’s Fox and Franz Josef
glaciers — because they’re melting too
quickly — ending traditional hiking routes
THE INFO that date back more than one hundred years

VANISHING GLACIERS
THE LATEST NEWS FROM AMERICA’S DENALI NATIONAL PARK REPORTED
THAT HIKERS’ WASTE NEGATIVELY AFFECTS THE FLOW OF GLACIAL ICE,
MAKING HUMAN IMPACT ON THESE NATURAL BEAUTIES ALL TOO VISIBLE

70%
What’s the issue?

150,000
pounds of poop left in glacier crevasses by trekkers
in Alaska’s Denali National Park
GEOENGINEERING
Harvard has opened a centre to
study a scheme proposed by a
Princeton glaciologist to stabilise
the most dangerous glaciers
The amount by which seasonal melting can
be reduced by wrapping a glacier in a blanket.
Every year, locals cover five acres of the Rhône
Glacier in the Swiss Alps with a patchwork of
white blankets that reflect the sun’s rays

What happens to it? What’s the solution? 18,000

Climbers are currently
required to use packable
toilets and dispose of waste
in crevasses
19%
A proposed rule suggests
climbers on the lower years
mountain carry waste out
of the park The amount of history thought
but crevasse to be stored in glacial ice from
disposal Illimani mountain in Bolivia.
continues Scientists have extracted samples
on the upper to be studied in Antarctica before
mountain the glacier disappears completely

Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park in

Argentina has collapsed. The good news is — this is normal.
The glacier forms a graceful ice arch that collapses and of the planet’s surface
regenerates continuously in a naturally occurring cycle is covered in glaciers

DID YOU KNOW? If all land ice such as glaciers melted, the global sea level would rise by 260ft

156 natgeotraveller.co.uk

HOT TOPIC
DAY ZERO: SHOULD I VISIT
IT MAY SOUND LIKE A ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE MOVIE, BUT DAY ZERO IS WHEN
SOUTH AFRICA’S CAPE TOWN IS SET TO RUN OUT OF WATER. WHAT DOES
THAT MEAN FOR TOURISTS? WORDS: JAMES DRAVEN
“There’s real gold in this lotion,”
says a therapist in the spa of my
pretentious Cape Town hotel,
who gilds her lily-white forearm
by way of example. Not that
she’s alone: the whole place
is dripping with gold-plated
grandeur. Sparkling wine flows
like water in the opulent bar.
Upstairs, my suite is super-sized,
my bed Brobdingnagian, and they
could hold the Super Bowl in my
bathtub. However, if you visited
now, there wouldn’t be a plug in it.
A big spa tub holds about
600 litres of water — in the UK
we use around 80 litres on each
bath — but in Cape Town, the
grunge look is back: washing your
hair has become uncool in the
city where at present residents
are each only allowed to use 50
litres of water per day. That’s for
everything, from doing the dishes
(approximately 11 litres) and
washing clothes (50+ litres
per cycle), to flushing the
toilet (five litres).
Around Cape Town,
fringed by the Atlantic
Ocean, you’ll find yachts
out on the water, lush
green golf courses
and vast
swimming
pools. You
don’t expect
a glitzy city
like this to be
running out of
water, but
South Africa is a
dry country and Cape
AND ANOTHER THING… MIDDLE EAST OPENINGS
NEW JUMEIRAH
The Jumeirah hotel chain has
opened its first hotel in Bahrain:
IMAGES: GETTY
the Royal Saray Bahrain, in the
coastal Seef district, inspired
by traditional Bahraini summer
houses. jumeirah.com
Town is currently going through
the worst drought in a century.
Annual rainfall has been well
below predicted levels for the
past three years.
The Day Zero announcement
— the date on which the city’s
water supply could be turned
off and water rations distributed
from collection points, originally
scheduled for 15 April — was
met with public outcry as well as
global media coverage. Critics
point out that despite the city’s
population having grown by more
than 75% in the past 20 years,
water storage capacity has only
increased by 15%.
However, the shock of a hard
deadline has forced Capetonians
to be smarter with their water,
and Day Zero has since been
pushed back several times: first
to 11 May, then 4 June, and now 9
July, by which point the country
should be in its wet season.
That said, if recent years
are anything to go
by, rain can’t be
relied on to refill
the reservoirs.
Many travellers
planning trips to
Cape Town might
be wondering if
it’s responsible
to be adding
pressure to the
city’s sputtering
water supply,
but Ash Jarvis,
director of Best
of South Africa
INDIGO GOES GREEN
Construction has started on
Hotel Indigo Dubai Sustainable
City, which will be 100% powered
by solar energy. The city’s first
sustainable hotel is set to open in
time for Dubai Expo 2020. ihg.com
Cape Town?
Q&A
IS DAY ZERO GUARANTEED?
No. Water saving measures
should prevent it if rains are
significant this year.
WHAT WILL I DRINK?
There’s no shortage of canned
and bottled beverages. Tolene
van der Merwe, UK & Ireland
head of South African Tourism,
says: “Tourists will still have
access to drinking water
but supermarkets have put
restrictions on bottled water.”
WOULD DAY ZERO SPELL CHAOS?
Alderman Ian Neilson, Cape
Town’s executive deputy mayor,
says: “We have the national
defence force and the police
service to assist with public
order and any incidents.”
WILL ATTRACTIONS BE CLOSED?
Tolene van der Merwe says: “All
major attractions are currently
operational, as are many other
entertainment spots.”
WHEN WILL WATER
RESTRICTIONS BE LIFTED?
Neilson concludes: “There’s
still a risk that we could be in
the same position in 2019, so
it’s likely that stringent water
restrictions will remain in place
for the foreseeable future.”
HOW CAN I KEEP UP TO DATE?
Visit waterwesterncape.com
AQUATIC ARCHES
Muscat’s new Arches of Oman
sculpture has been unveiled, in
the gardens of the Royal Opera
House: 40ft-high steel tusks
intertwine over a 200ft-wide pool.
archesoman.com
TRAVEL GEEKS
Travel, says visitor numbers are
just a drop in the ocean: “Even in
peak periods, tourists only add 1%
to the population of the Western
Cape. With more than 300,000
jobs dependent on tourism,
its vital they keep coming. It’s
particularly essential during
the current drought, in order to
finance desalination plants and
water diversion schemes.”
City of Cape Town executive
deputy mayor, Alderman Ian
Neilson, tells me, “Although Cape
Town is faced with possibly the
worst disaster in its history, we’re
by no means a disaster area at
the moment. We don’t think of
tourists as a drain on resources:
tourism is calculated to be one of
the most water-efficient job-
creating sectors. Tourists should
feel no moral dilemma about
visiting Cape Town.”
Water saving measures
include restaurants eschewing
tablecloths and napkins, and even
using paper plates. Swimming
pools are being filled with
borehole water, while ‘grey’ water
is being recycled to flush toilets
and water gardens. Hotels are
putting stopwatches in showers
and asking guests to limit washing
to 90 seconds, as well as fitting
tap diffusers, stocking bathrooms
with disposable towels and, yes,
removing plugs from bathtubs.
“Water saving has pushed Day
Zero back significantly,” adds
Neilson, “meaning it’s unlikely
that we’ll have to introduce water
collection points this year.”
LIFE’S A MEGA-BEACH
More than 800ft of Aqaba’s
seafront is being transformed
by Ayla Resort, forming five new
districts, a marina and Jordan’s
first 18-hole championship golf
course. ayla.com.jo
May 2018 157
TRAVEL GEEKS
CHECKLIST:
ALL-WEATHER
TRAVEL KIT
JOULES PACKAWAY PARKA
Waterproof pack-away parka;
perfect for festivals. RRP: £29.95
joules.com
KEEN TERRADORA
Women’s running and fitness
shoes for outdoor workouts.
RRP: from £85
keenfootwear.com
RIDE SKINCARE
Natural, organic sports skincare
for wind, rain and sun.
RRP: from £8.99
rideskincare.co.uk
MATADOR DROPLET DRY BAG
For beach, gym or travels: super-
compact three-litre dry bag that
packs into a keyring. RRP: £12.99
bearandbear.com
158 natgeotraveller.co.uk
7READ
waysTHEtoWEATHER
IF CULTURAL STEREOTYPES ARE TO BE BELIEVED, WE BRITS THRIVE ON DISCUSSING THE
WEATHER. BUT DO WE UNDERSTAND IT? LEARN HOW TO INTERPRET THE MOVEMENTS
OF THE SKIES OVER THE UK AND WESTERN EUROPE WITH THESE TIPS AND TRICKS
1 // LOOK UP TO THE SKY
Make an effort to look at the sky, and ideally
a barometer, as often as possible. Although
the clouds and wind aren’t perfect for
predicting coming weather, they do provide
important clues. Cumulonimbus clouds, for
example, may indicate heavy showers or even
thunderstorms. If you have a barometer, note
how pressure changes. In general, an increase
indicates better weather; a decrease suggests
conditions will deteriorate.
2 // WATCH OUT FOR DEPRESSIONS
The main changes in weather come with
depressions (‘lows’) that move in from the
west. Where different types of air
arrive there are specific ‘fronts’ with
different clouds and associated
weather. Warm fronts may bring
long periods of rain, whereas on
cold fronts the changes are usually
more rapid and extreme; other
types of front may give hours or
even days of rain.
3 // KEEP AN EYE ON WHAT THE WIND
IS DOING
Because of friction, winds at the
surface — those that we feel — are
not as strong, nor in exactly the
same direction as those shown by
most clouds. When the highest
winds (jet-stream winds and clouds)
are blowing in a very different
direction to that shown by lower
clouds, change is on its way.
4 // READ DIFFERENT TYPES OF CLOUD
There are specific, easily-seen
features that mark the different
how to read the weather,
types of clouds and the associated
weather. The highest clouds (‘jet-
stream cirrus’) provide an important
indicator of forthcoming changes
in the weather, and show when winds are
‘crossed’. Along with different cloud types,
learning how to recognise crossed winds will
help you predict weather changes.
5 // FIND THE BEST FORECAST CHARTS
Unfortunately, most TV weather forecasts
don’t show the all-important isobars,
indicating wind direction and speeds. Good
examples are the charts provided by the UK
Met Office. The isobars will provide significant
information about how the weather may
change. metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/
surface-pressure
6 // SPOT PROGRESSIVE CHANGES IN
CLOUD FORMATIONS
There’s a definite sequence
of changes in cloud types as a
EVERY
cloud...
depression approaches and brings
changes in the weather. The changes
in the clouds are often clear to see
and depend on where the centre of
the low will pass — to the north or
south, for example — with different
changes to the weather. The
sequence of different cloud types
— cirrus, cirrostratus, altostratus
and nimbostratus — is highly
characteristic of an approaching
depression and poor weather.
Newly published by the 7 // LEARN WHEN THUNDERY WEATHER
National Trust, How MAY BE ON THE WAY
to Read the Weather, The conditions under which severe
by astronomer and thunderstorms arise are different
meteorologist Storm from the changes associated with
Dunlop, uncovers the depressions. When hot, humid air
secrets of meteorology
arrives from the south, or when it’s
with practical tips on
been very hot and sunny, there will
IMAGES: GETTY
from interpreting that
be a growth of large cumulonimbus
red sky at night, to clouds — watch out for these and
St Elmo’s fire and more. realise the danger of lightning, and
RRP: £12.99 know how to shelter. STORM DUNLOP
 TRAVEL GEEKS

Tech traveer TECHNOLOGY REPORTER FOR @BBCCLICK AND

AUTHOR OF WORKING THE CLOUD,
KATE RUSSELL PICKS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS

TOP APPS FOR...

BOOKING SMART
Perfect trip planning

Want the best deals? Then
choose the best places to shop
online. They’re not always where
you think…
Whether you’re looking at luxury
or low-budget travel, there are
various web-based tools and
services to help you get the most
bang for your buck. But they’re
not always the usual suspects.
When booking a flight, Hopper’s
iPhone and Android apps (hopper.
com) not only note the best time
to fly to certain destinations, but
also watch your flight choices and
notify you when the ticket goes
on sale at the lowest price. You
might think price comparison sites
like Trivago and Kayak turn up
the best deals for hotel bookings
but many major chains, including
Hilton, Hyatt and Marriott, now
offer member discounts, loyalty
points, room upgrades and other
benefits not given to second- and
third-party sites.
And it’s not too late to shave off
a few pounds even after you’ve
booked a room, as rates can drop
as much as 40% from the list
price in the weeks
leading up to
a stay. Pruvo
(pruvo.net) is an
automatic service that will watch
your reservation and let you know
if the exact room in the same
hotel becomes available at a lower
price. The system automatically
rejects any nonrefundable
reservations and will only look for
better prices up to the last date
of free cancellation — usually
48-72 hours prior to check-in — to
avoid penalties. Once found, the
site’s rebooking wizard guides
you through booking a brand
new, cheaper reservation. When
you receive confirmation of the
new reservation, the wizard then
guides you through cancelling the
original, more expensive room.
SEEVOOV
IOS/ANDROID/WEB — FREE
The world is a visual place, so choosing your
holiday destination and activities by watching
videos seems like a natural evolution for trip
planning. That’s the premise behind this new
app, which uses AI and image recognition to
trawl the web looking for appropriate videos
to show you when browsing travel possibilities.
seevoov.com
WORLDAROUNDME
IOS/ANDROID — FREE
Discover what’s going on in the city around
you with the power of augmented reality.
Including restaurants, hotels, shopping, events
and more in over 200 countries, it’s a window
to the world through your smartphone screen.
worldaroundmeapp.com
SYGIC TRAVEL TRIP PLANNER
IOS/ANDROID — FREE
Plan days out before you leave home with
a day-by-day planner that includes travel
times. It even has offline maps and walking
guidance built-in to make sure you get to your
destination safely. travel.sygic.com

GET THE GADGET

Sitpack portable seat
Sometimes you just need to sit
down — whether you’re hiking in
the hills, waiting in a busy transit
lounge, birdwatching in the fens,
or catching your favourite act at
a festival. But who wants to lug
around a fold-up camping chair?
Enter Sitpack, a collapsible seat
that shrinks down to the size of a
50cl drinks can and weighs in at
just 0.6kg. The telescopic design
makes it adjustable to suit any
height, and it’s made of glass fibre
reinforced polycarbonate — the
ultimate in high-tech strength.
You can pop it in your back pocket
and just whip it out whenever you
need a break. The product crowd-
funded $500,000 (£356,000)
against an original goal of $30,000
(£21,400) last year. RRP: £41.66 @katerussell
sitpack.com/products/sitpack katerussell.co.uk

May 2018 159

TRAVEL GEEKS
FREQUENT FLYER
IS NO-FRILLS THE FUTURE OF LONG-HAUL?
WITH BRITISH AIRWAYS AND VIRGIN ATLANTIC ADDING ‘BASIC’ FARES — AND A NEW LOW-COST AIRLINE ON THE
SCENE — WILL WE BE CHANGING THE WAY WE FLY TRANSATLANTIC? WORDS: NICOLA TRUP
What’s the deal here?
The airline price war has just
got interesting. Two of the
biggest ‘full-service’ airlines
BASIC HAND-BAGGAGE ONLY
are introducing discounted
‘basic’ fares on long-haul flights
— meaning travelling to North
America could become a great
deal cheaper.
Who are we talking about?
British Airways and Virgin Atlantic.
Just days apart, each announced
it was introducing hand-baggage
only fares for long-haul. Both
include meals, with Virgin’s
Economy Light ticket also offering
seat selection at check-in, which
is handy if you’re going to be stuck
in the same seat for eight hours.
British Airways’ Basic Economy,
meanwhile, doesn’t allow
passengers to choose their seats,
and will be offered on ‘selected
transatlantic routes’ only.
The new fares will see British
Airways and Virgin going
head-to-head with no-frills
airline Norwegian and another
WHAT WE PAID: HEATHROW — NEW YORK JFK IN MAY
£389
return
VIRGIN ATLANTIC
BOOKED THROUGH: Travelbag
LUGGAGE ALLOWANCE: 10kg hand baggage,
23kg checked-in luggage
INCLUDES: meals, seat selection 24 hours before departure, free wi-fi
FARIDA ZEYNALOVA, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
160 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Scandinavian carrier, Primera Air.
The latter’s first long-haul routes
AT A GLANCE from the UK take off in April,
starting with Stansted to New
York’s Newark airport, with return
FARES INCLUDE:
fares from around £246.
BRITISH AIRWAYS
What’s the upshot?
23 That depends on your priorities.
kg It’s unclear how much of a
Food and drink discount the basic fares will offer
at the time of going to print. That
VIRGIN ATLANTIC said, British Airways’ European
routes tend to be around 10-20%
10 cheaper when you’re not checking
kg
Food and drink in a bag.
Seat selection at check-in While this may sound like great
news, practically speaking it might
NORWEGIAN not make much of a difference
to most of us. As an ABTA
10 spokesperson pointed out: “The
kg
intention [of unbundling certain
PRIMERA AIR services] is to lower fares, and for
many people price is their primary
10 concern. However, on long-haul
kg flights people are less likely to
travel with just hand luggage.”
Craig West, editor of Airliner
World magazine, added: “The
£365
return
BRITISH AIRWAYS
BOOKED THROUGH: TravelUp
LUGGAGE ALLOWANCE: 23kg hand baggage plus an additional
handbag/laptop bag up to 23kg, 23kg checked-in luggage
INCLUDES: meals, seat selection 24 hours before departure
NICOLA TRUP, ASSOCIATE EDITOR
advantage of unbundling
economy services is that
customers are only paying for the
elements they want to receive. Or,
to put it another way, they aren’t
paying for things they don’t.”
Is this definitely the way to
go, then?
This is where the priorities
come in. A bunch of us here at
National Geographic Traveller
are about to fly out to New York
for a colleague’s wedding, and
we each paid between £360 and
£390 for economy tickets on
full-service carriers. The trick:
we all booked via trusted third-
party sites, such as Travelbag
and Expedia (always check the
reviews first), which knocked
around £100 off the cost. We felt
check-in luggage and meals were
essential on our eight-hour hop
across the Atlantic.
However, with prices seemingly
about to drop even further, it may
soon be time for all of us to start
travelling — and eating — light.
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

ALIVE IN

BANFF AND LAKE LOUISE

TRAVELLERS HAVE BEEN EMBRACING THE NATURAL BEAUTY AND WILD ENVIRONMENT OF
BANFF NATIONAL PARK IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES FOR DECADES

Banff and Lake Louise are year-round destinations that
have been satisfying skiers, hikers, climbers, bikers,
paddlers, and foodies alike for more than a century.
They’re home to three world-class ski resorts, countless
hiking and biking trails, award-winning restaurants, and
jaw-dropping scenery. As the winter snow melts, the
animals wake up from hibernation, hikers and bikers hit
the trails, and evening apres-ski commences under the
late-setting sun on patios with scenic views.
Mountainous landscapes, Canadian hospitality, and
regionally sourced delicacies are another feature of the
country’s oldest national park. Visitors can enjoy guided
hikes that give a rare glimpse into a wild and protected
part of our planet. The scenic lifts at the Banff Gondola,
Lake Louise Ski Resort and Summer Gondola, Banff
Sunshine, and Mount Norquay enable you to enjoy wildlife,
dining, and panoramic mountaintop views. No matter
your skill level, adventure awaits in Banff and Lake Louise.

banf f lakelouise .com

 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

10 reasons to
visit Corsica
UNSPOILT CORSICA IS KNOWN AS ‘THE BEAUTIFUL ISLE’. HERE’S WHY YOU
SHOULD DISCOVER THE MEDITERRANEAN’S MOST SPECTACULAR SECRET

1 2
A NATURAL UTOPIA WALKING IN THE WILD
Fly over Corsica and you’ll think Savvy hikers have long
a portion of the Alps has been revered Corsica. The
transplanted into the middle of the formidable GR20 route runs
Mediterranean sea. Spiky peaks north to south and is regarded
cascade down to the coast, creating a by many as the most beautiful
fabulous outdoor playground. trail in Europe. It’s a tough
Monte Cinto, at 8,878ft , is by task but there are also dozens
far the highest mountain on any of easier marked trails. You
Mediterranean island outside Etna, could find yourself among
and it’s not alone — dozens of chestnut groves that open onto
summits stand well over 2,000ft taller a stunning beach, or following
than Ben Nevis, the UK’s loft iest peak. a sparkling stream beneath
There are plenty beauty spots, soaring granite walls.
such as Scandola Nature Reserve and Hardier types should head to
Les Calanches, with its fantastical, the central spine of mountains
IMAGES: GETTY

red-tinged rock outcrops, and scenic for routes along sharp ridges and
Spelunca Gorge. through valleys to alpine lakes.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

5
UNDISCOVERED WINES
The island produces excellent wines,
most of them little known outside
Corsica. In fact, viniculture has existed here for
well over 2,000 years and there are nine AOC
regions. Small-scale growers turn out zesty whites
and earthy reds, although Corsicans have a strong
loyalty to rosé. Nielluccio (rosé), vermentino (white)
and sciacarello (red) — the latter unique to the
island — are key grape varieties.

3 6
SUBLIME BEACHES CORSICA’S
Almost 200 beaches are ‘LITTLE
nestled along Corsica’s CORPORAL’
620-odd miles of coast, some The house in Ajaccio
of which would not look out of where Napoleon
place in the Caribbean. Many Bonaparte was born
are undeveloped, with velvety in 1769 is now a
white sand fringed by pines museum devoted to
and blue water. his life and Corsican
Those who yearn for history. Walk around
seclusion can seek out the capital and
coves only reachable by you’ll see Napoleon
boat or an exhilarating hike. is intertwined with
Other spots are served by the city — street
cafes and bars so you can names and statues
split your time between dips commemorate the
in the crystal-clear water and ‘Little Corporal’.
relaxing with a chilled drink Even the airport is
on a sunny terrace. named after him.

7
FRESH-AIR FUN

4
THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Mountain
Remarkable structures bikers love the
dot the island — from the dedicated high-
carved menhirs of prehistory ground trails, while
to the classical architecture of the coast is ideal for
recent centuries. Some of the gentle rides.
small cities are still protected by Elsewhere, sheer
mighty walls and bastions, behind rock faces challenge
which are exquisite churches and climbers, the gorges
cobbled lanes. These are places below them are
rich in stories; Horatio Nelson lost prime territory for
an eye in the Siege of Calvi in 1794, canyoning, while
for example. horse riders can trot
Around the coast are through the slopes or
watchtowers built by the along the beaches.
Genoese in the 16th century Good snorkelling
to spot pirates. Don’t miss spots abound, with
Bonifacio, on the southern tip, exceptional wrecks
perched on top of vertical cliffs. and gullies for divers.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

8
FABULOUS FESTIVALS
Local produce is
enthusiastically celebrated.
There are festivals for chestnuts,
honey, cheese, almonds, seafood
and wine: the olive festival
attracts up to 10,000 people.
Music is a big part of Corsican
life. Polyphonic singing, a
cherished tradition, is honoured
with its own festival in Calvi.
The town also hosts Calvi on
the Rocks, an electronic and
rock music festival. Elsewhere,
Patrimonio stages The Nights of
the Guitar, at which top guitarists
perform, and Saint-Florent hosts
Porto Latino, a Latin music event.

9
A GOURMET’S DREAM
Chestnuts and olives,
mushrooms from the
forests, trout from the rivers,
herbs from the wild maquis,
free-range pigs and wild boar
all appear in Corsican dishes.
Look out for various cheeses
made from the milk of sheep and
goats and fine cured meats. The
coastal waters yield sea bream,
red mullet, langoustine and
especially good oysters.
Restaurants range from stylish
quayside spots to rustic farm-
inns in the villages where organic
cooking is the norm.

10
ENCHANTING
ISLAND STAYS
Corsica offers a
great variety of characterful
accommodation. This ranges
from smart, modern hotels and
chic boutiques to converted
monasteries or palaces. There are
also stylish marina resorts and
friendly, family-run hotels on an
intimate scale, along with a wide
choice of apartments and private
villas with pools to rent.
GETTING THERE
Air Corsica is now operating flights from
Stansted to Ajaccio, Bastia and Figari, allowing great
flexibility for any itinerary. The service operates
from early May to early November, with up to nine
flights per week from June to September. Fares start
from £49 one way and that price includes a generous
23kg hold luggage allowance, 12kg cabin bag and free
seat selection. Car rental is available at each airport
and Air Corsica has a preferred arrangement with
Hertz so you can book your vehicle at the same time
as your flights. See the competition on p.43 for a
chance to win a three-night trip to Corsica.

FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK

aircor sica.com
IMAGES: GETTY
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

USA
In a country as vast as the United States, the music is as
varied as the land itself. Lurching from the sweet sound of jazz
in New Orleans to tenacious, gritty rap in New York, our next
issue celebrates America’s musical heritage

Plus // France, Birmingham, Madrid, Delhi, The Alps, Oman,

Galápagos Islands, Ho Chi Minh City, Belgrade, Canada

June issue
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For more information on our subscription offers,

see page 184

May 2018 165

166 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 ST HELENA: ISOLATION ISLAND
THE FIRST COMMERCIAL FLIGHT TO ST HELENA — SMACK DAB IN THE
MIDDLE OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN — LANDED LAST OCTOBER,
MAKING IT MUCH MORE ACCESSIBLE FOR TRAVELLERS. WHAT DOES
QUICKER ACCESS MEAN FOR ONE OF THE WORLD’S REMOTEST ISLANDS?
WORDS: EMMA THOMSON
W
hen Napoleon was still
a student, he scribbled
on the last page of
his geography book: ‘St Helena.
Small Island.’ Oh, the irony — 30
years later he was exiled and died
here. Yet even today, few of us
know little more than that. Not
even its location. But that’s all
set to change. In October 2017,
this remote Atlantic outpost
welcomed its first commercial
flight. Previously only accessible
via the RMS St Helena, the journey
time has been slashed from five
days sailing from South Africa to
four hours by air.
It hasn’t been without
challenges. The inaugural flight
was delayed for over a year due
to dangerous wind conditions.
The headlines weren’t kind: it
was dubbed ‘the world’s most
useless airport’ by the British
media. Even though downgrading
to a smaller plane and training
pilots intensively for eight months
solved the issue, the airport has
struggled to shrug off its shaky
start. “Currently, only four pilots
in the world are qualified to fly into
St Helena,” says Jaco Henning, the
South African pilot who landed the
maiden flight on 14 October. “It’s
classed as a Category C airport
IMAGE: ALAMY
— the toughest tier.”
What does quicker access
mean for one of the world’s
remotest islands? A third the size
of the Isle of Wight, some 1,200
miles from the Angolan coast,
St Helena — rather surprisingly
— has never been short of
visitors. Naturalist Charles
Darwin, explorer Captain James
Cook, novelist William Thackeray
and astronomer Edmond Halley
all stayed here. But the island’s
most famous guest might never
have made it at all.
“It was a sailor who turned the
tide of history,” says 81 year-old
local guide Basil George, tickling
his grey goatee, as we stroll
around the docks. “When the
Duke of Wellington passed by in
1805 on his way back to England
from India, the boat taking him
ashore capsized in the rough
seas. Three people drowned.
Wellington couldn’t swim, but a
young boy came to his rescue. If
he hadn’t, the Battle of Waterloo
might never have happened!”
Basil pauses dramatically, to let
the full weight of the story sink in.
Now, the island’s own fate is
changing. “Before the Suez Canal,
30 ships a day docked here,”
continues Basil. Trade had been
booming since 1657 when Oliver
Cromwell granted the East India
Company a charter to govern
the island. A small platoon and a
gaggle of planters arrived
— making it one of Britain’s oldest
colonies — and with riches from
the passing trade from India
they built a fort, castle, St James’
Church and Plantation House.
Merchants such as Solomon’s and
Thorpe — which still owns stores
in the capital, Jamestown — set
up shop in the 1790s.
But when the island passed from
the East India Company to the
British Crown in 1833 “we became
poor,” says Basil, and things took a
further turn for the worse in 1869.
“The canal took us off the map
and since the collapse of the flax
trade in the 1960s — when Royal
Mail decided to start using rubber
bands instead of twine to tie the
post — we’ve been dependent
on aid [from the Department for
International Development] ever
since,” laments Basil. Jobs were
so scarce, children were left with
their grandparents while their
parents sailed to UK to work as
domestic staff for rich families.
One of those to experience this
was 58-year-old Ivy Robinson,
who runs Wellington House B&B
in Jamestown. “My sister left
when I was four years old and I
didn’t see her again until I was
44,” she relates, as we sit in the
hotel lounge. And things haven’t
changed much. “The island can be
a circle of security, or a trap,” says
Basil. “Sixty per cent of people
worked off-island last year.”
But it’s hoped the airport will
give younger islanders — known
as Saints — a shot at a future that
May 2018 167
Life at your
own pace.

Exceptional villas, local knowledge,

personal service

thethinkingtraveller.com
+44 (0)20 7377 8518
S I C I LY • PUGLIA • IONIAN ISLANDS
SPORADES ISLANDS • CORSICA
 ST HELENA

ST HELENA’S
HISTORY
1502
St Helena discovered
by Portuguese admiral
João da Nova en route
from India

1515
Fernando Lopez, a
Portuguese prisoner,
maroons himself on the
island to escape jail and
lives there for 30 years.
Possible inspiration
for Shakespeare’s
The Tempest

1658
The East India
Company claims its
right to fortify and
colonise the island

1676 doesn’t force them off the island
Astronomer Edmund in search of work. Aaron Legg — a
Halley visits the island fifth-generation Saint in his early
for a year to map 30s — used to depend on farming,
stars of the southern but has diversified to offer 4x4
hemisphere adventure tours of the island. “I
don’t have to wait three weeks
1815–1821 for my next client,” he says with
Napoleon Bonaparte some relief, as we scan the scrub
is exiled to the ‘island for the endemic wirebird. “The
prison’ after his airport also gives me the freedom
defeat at the Battle of to travel, without taking too much
Waterloo time away from my business.”
But not everyone is in favour of
1833 the airport. In 2002, a referendum
St Helena becomes a was held allowing islanders to
part of His Majesty’s vote for or against it. Only half
Government the population turned up, making
the win somewhat skewed. The
1836 economic crisis hit, funds dried
Charles Darwin stays up, and plans were put on ice until
for six days as part 2012 when ground was broken for
of the HMS Beagle the first time without a second
expedition vote held. “[Back then] I didn’t
vote for the airport. I wasn’t sure
1900-1902 if we could adapt quickly enough.
6,000 South African The younger ones can, but we’re
Boer prisoners arrive used to a slower pace of life,”
and are housed at admits Ivy. She worries that this
Deadwood Plain impingement on their isolation
will have a detrimental effect.
2017 “We’re so protected here: no
First commercial flight crime, no locked doors. People go
IMAGE: EMMA THOMSON
between deep drags on his
cigarette. “Seventy-six seats a
week will not fulfil our needs.”
He’s concerned limited seats
means an insufficient influx
of tourist dollars. Mantis, the
new hotel, has relied on foreign
investment, but local B&Bs need
visitors first before money can
be poured back into upgrading
services. There are also grumbles
the flights are too expensive for
some Saints.
Digital detox
In the meantime what can
travellers expect? Forget
fantasies of white-sand beaches
and palm trees. St Helena has
more character than that: a ring
of ocean-carved cliffs, steep rain-
cut valleys cloaked in vast fields
of flax that ripple in the wind
like sea grass and lush fern-filled
forests lapped by swirling tidal
mists. And the sand spread along
the curve of Sandy Bay is black.
The island is rigged for
adventure. Wriggling around her
waters are 30 endemic species of
fish and, from January to March,
it’s one of the world’s few hotspots
for whale sharks. History buffs
PREVIOUS PAGE: Flax
growing on St Helena
ABOVE: Jonathan the
Giant Tortoise
species such as the wirebird and
miniature blushing snail.
You can also sip the world’s
most-remote coffee, sup a dram
of Tungi (prickly pear-cactus
spirit) and munch on fishcakes
and bread ’n’ dance (tomato-paste
sandwiches). And, come nightfall,
tip your head back to gawk at
very twinkly skies. The island is
currently awaiting official Dark Sky
Association recognition. “We’re
unique because from here you can
see both the Southern Cross and
the Plough,” enthuses Vince.
But the island’s ace is hiking. It
starts with the soaring 699 steps of
Jacob’s Ladder that scale the steep
valley protecting Jamestown.
“Have you climbed it yet?” asks Val
Joshua, who is taking me for a hike
up to Diana’s Peak. “I have — I did
it in 20 minutes and 30 seconds,”
boasts fellow UK traveller, Leon.
Val, who is 69 years old, nods
quietly. “What’s your time?” asks
Leon, politely. “Twelve minutes,”

lands on St Helena away and bring back new habits
from outside.”
For others, it’s the practicality.
“It wasn’t built for Saints,” muses
Vince Thompson, editor of the
island’s Independent newspaper,
can dig into Napoleon’s past with
visits to Longwood House and his
tomb. Naturalists can go nose to
nose with the world’s oldest living
animal, Jonathan the Giant Tortoise
at Plantation House, and endemic
responds Val. Leon’s face drops as
he calculates he’s been trumped
by someone 30 years his senior.
“When was this?” Leon presses.
“About two weeks ago!” Val helped
grade the 20-plus hikes around

May 2018 169

ST HELENA
the island and has calves as tight
as fists. Indeed, it turns out locals
are too fit: the trails are being
reclassified to allow travellers
lacking the mountain-goat gene a
fair chance.
Against this ruggedness, island
life is a calm succession of days
where locals still barter pumpkins
for chickens; mobile phone
coverage was only rolled out in
September 2015; and the two
roundabouts “haven’t quite been
mastered yet,” smiles Stephen
Biggs, owner of Farm Lodge B&B.
With 4,100 islanders, family is,
literally, everything. “Everyone’s
an auntie and uncle — even if
they’re not!” laughs Matt Joshua,
manager of the new Mantis
hotel. So it’s first names only on
the island radio. Indeed, on my
second day, as I’m wandering
around Jamestown taking photos,
a lady crosses my camera shutter.
“Can I have a copy? My name’s
Molly,” she smiles, as if that’s all
the information I’d need to pass
it along.
Remoteness does have its
challenges. “When we arrived
three years ago, my six year old
wanted a BLT sandwich,” relates
Niall O’Keeffe, chief executive for
economic development. “It took
me three months to gather the
ingredients,” he laughs.
But isolation is also its appeal.
Travellers can really switch
off here. UK mobiles don’t get
reception and the (expensive)
wi-fi is limited to a handful of
places in Jamestown. Stranded
both digitally and geographically,
you slip back into a slower gear
and return to simple pleasures.
Locals greet you in the street or
wave to you when passing on the
roads (regardless of whether they
know you); there are pockets of
prolonged silence, and you find
yourself playing board games
beside roaring fires.
MORE INFO
Discover the World offers a Discover St Helena Fly-In trip combined
with optional extensions in South Africa. Prices start from £1,588
per person for a week-long fly drive, based on two sharing, B&B,
including car hire, 4WD adventure excursion, a half-day wildlife
cruise, and return Johannesburg to St Helena flights with SA Airlink.
Flights from the UK to South Africa start from around £600 per
person. discover-the-world.co.uk
sthelenatourism.com
St Helena. RRP: £15.99 (Bradt Guides)
170 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Travellers should grab this
chance of a digital detox quickly. THE ‘SAINTS’
Snaking beneath the ocean is
a branch of the South Atlantic
Express submarine fibre-optic Aaron Legg, Adventure 4x4
cable — connecting South Africa
to the US East Coast — which will
Tours // Now I don’t have to
arrive in 2020 and end St Helena’s wait three weeks for my next
digital isolation. “It’ll have a much client. It’ll mean I can actually
bigger effect than the airport,”
says Helena Bennett, director
run a business
of tourism.
The RMS St Helena was Debbie Stroud, manager of
retired on 10 February 2018.
Cargo boats still come, but
Plantation House // I think we
the age of travellers glimpsing need to move away from being
this halo of rock from the bow so colonial and modernise
of a boat is over. Does arriving
by air change the experience for
travellers? Rainer Schimpf, Ivy Robinson, proprietor of
a South Africa-based dive
operator hoping to lead
Wellington House B&B //
expeditions here, has tried both. When [the RMS St Helena]
“People loved the RMS because sails for the last time you won’t
it was like stepping back in time
— you’d expect to see Humphrey
find me there [on the docks],
Bogart in the corridors. By the only in my bedroom. It’s too
time you arrived, you were emotional. All our lives she’s
friends with everyone and
been there, through good and
knew all about the island. I
was expecting the plane to be bad — she helped us survive
different, but there were still
lots of conversations being held Val Joshua, hiking guide // We
back and forth across the aisle
— it’s not like a normal flight.”
have to go with the flow — it’s
So while it’s easy to romanticise there now. We have to prepare
the elegance of arrival by sea ourselves for change
— and the slow getting-to-
know-the-island she afforded
— the airport does provide a real
solution to ending the island’s
economic dependency. Tourism
can only be sustainable when
visitors arrive weekly instead of
once a month. Wanted or not,
change is — literally — winging its
way to St Helena.
Landing back in Johannesburg,
my phone immediately trills to
life. I flinch at the intrusion. It’s
not until you return home do you
realise how trés Bon-aparte St
Helena really is.
IMAGE: EMMA THOMSON
 Searching for an adventure to an unspoilt destination? Remote St Helena Island
awaits you with its spectacular scenery, fascinating history and clear blue waters.
St Helena has now become a new flight destination, with direct flights from
Johannesburg. This unique island offers visitors an exciting opportunity for
active exploration and discovery in the South Atlantic.

www.sthelenatourism.com
@visit.sthelena @sthelenatourism
THE RETURN OF THE
GREAT BRITISH SEASIDE
WE WILL DELIGHT THEM ON THE BEACHES! DOWN IN PLANET THANET,
DISTRICT OF THE FORMERLY-RUN-DOWN-SEASIDE-TOWN REVOLUTION,
WE TAKE A LOOK AT HOW THE KISS-ME-QUICK THRILLS OF ENGLAND’S
COASTAL RESORTS ARE MAKING A COMEBACK. WORDS: JAMES DRAVEN
A
searchlight mounted
on the deck of a yacht
in Britain’s only Royal
Harbour scours the sky. Amid
myriad sailboats festooned with
fairy lights, it rises like a bat-signal
on a blanket of clouds. Directly
below, on Ramsgate’s King Street,
the illuminations are more muted:
the dim flicker of fruit machines
and fluorescent strip lighting
emanating from kebab shops.
A maelstrom of rubbish swirls
around the feet of a teenage
scooter gang outside KFC,
whose leader is inexplicably
fiddling around inside his
tracksuit bottoms with one
hand, while choking chicken
down his neck with the other,
and dropping greasy bones on
to the pavement. Two minutes’
walk away, a much more orderly
queue of telecommuters and
yummy mummies forms outside
Shakey Shakey Traditional Fish
Shop, as faithful patrons collect
paper-wrapped portions of vegan
fish (tofu encased in a layer of
seaweed, then battered), soya
sausages, and what must surely be
some of Britain’s best chips.
The hipster shops of Margate’s
diminutive old town — peddling
kitsch kitchenware and veritable
meadows of Edison bulbs — are
coloured in Farrow & Ball’s leaden
hues, from Mole’s Breath to Down
Pipe, while a stone’s throw away,
172 natgeotraveller.co.uk
concrete shopping arcades and
long-term locals’ ashen faces
are painted Morrissey grey, and
every day is like Sunday. Come
sunset though, the horizon over
this corner of Kent — Ramsgate,
Margate, and Broadstairs
— bursts into such varicoloured
vibrance that it caused JMW
Turner to claim: “The skies over
Thanet are the loveliest in
all Europe.”
Such is the dichotomy of
this district’s seaside towns in
2018, where hipsters coexist
with the hapless; shabby chic
sits directly beside plain old
shabby; and day trippers sidestep
pot smokers taking their own
internal excursions. Formerly-
glorious-but-now-run-down
British resorts such as these have
reached a turning point, clawing
back from England’s white-cliff
precipice, right as they reached
the brink of extinction.
Britons’ love of the seaside
can be dated back to the
latter half of the 18th century,
when Doctor Richard Russell
published his Dissertation
on the Use of Sea Water in the
Affections of the Glands, which
extolled the virtues of bathing
in, and even imbibing, seawater
as a preferable alternative to
fashionable inland health spas.
His paper was widely acclaimed
and he’s been credited with
helping to establish Brighton as
the resort we know today.
The British coast was suddenly
on-trend, and across the
country, the seaside holiday
became a ritual of upper class
Londoners who came to march
the promenades in their finery.
King George IV was so enamoured
with the hospitality he received in
Ramsgate’s port that he decreed
it the unique status of ‘Royal
Harbour’. Queen Victoria was
also particularly fond of the town
after regular visits throughout the
1820s, and when painter William
Powell Frith exhibited his seaside
panorama, Ramsgate Sands, at
the Royal Academy summer
exhibition in 1854, it was snapped
up by the monarch herself.
Frith’s painting depicted an
altogether more chaotic beach
scene, as by the 1840s the seaside
was no longer the preserve of
the rich. The development of
the railways in the 1840s, which
offered affordable fares to these
expanding seaside resorts,
brought trips to the beach within
reach of the working classes. Back
when Nevada was still practically
deserted, the small seaside town
of Blackpool was transformed into
the Las Vegas of the north, when a
IMAGE: ALAMY
new railway branch line connected
it to Poulton. Lancashire cotton
mill owners would close their
factories for a week each year in
May 2018 173
BRITISH SEASIDE
Sunset at Ramsgate
order to service their machinery,
and during these periods workers
would descend on Blackpool in
their droves. As the promenades,
piers — and Blackpool Tower, of
course — went up, so too did the
number of visitors, leading to a
sustained boom throughout the
1850s and 1860s.
Tides turn
By the end of the 19th century,
the English coastline was home to
more than 100 large resort towns.
The music hall classic, I Do Like to
be Beside the Seaside, was penned
in 1907, and that remained the
case through the era of kiss-me-
quick hats, donkey rides, and
ever-increasingly long piers, right
up until the 1960s, when air travel
became affordable for many and
everything changed.
With the advent of package
holidays to European sun, our
domestic seaside economy
was sunk. Benidorm replaced
Blackpool; Majorca usurped
Margate; Corfu killed Clacton.
Express train routes that used to
ferry the cities’ factory workers
to the British seaside were
axed, businesses shuttered, and
battalions of B&Bs were left empty.
At their peak, British seaside
resorts received over five million
visitors per year but, while Chas
’n’ Dave might have insisted in
their 1982 single, Down to Margate,
174 natgeotraveller.co.uk
“You can keep the Costa Brava,
I’m telling ya, mate, I’d rather have
a day down Margate with all me
family,” by the mid-80s many
guesthouses had been divided
into cheap flats and were offering
spots to the unemployed instead
of families on holiday.
As the Spanish coast was
overrun with Brits abroad, our
own became downtrodden, and
the tabloids dubbed our seaside
resorts the ‘Costa del Dole’.
Coastal communities fell far
behind inland areas, with some
of the worst levels of deprivation
in the country. For decades, TS
Eliot’s line from landmark poem,
The Waste Land, rang especially
true: ‘On Margate Sands I can
connect nothing with nothing’.
Amy, a 29-year-old musician
and waitress at Addington Street
Kitchen, which sells excellent flat
whites and vegan sausage rolls,
was born in Margate and has lived
in Ramsgate for six years: “When
I was a kid, all the people I knew
who grew up in Thanet couldn’t
wait to get away,” she says — an
unwitting embodiment of the
area’s new-found hip vibe, with her
Bettie Paige make-up, do-rag and
red-and-black check shirt. “It was
one of the roughest places in the
UK, so it still seems weird to me
that so many people are suddenly
moving here from London and
raving about the place.”
But raving about the place
they are, and it seems the tide is
finally turning for these washed-
up seaside towns. As usual, it was
the artists who led the charge
towards regeneration. The
Turner Contemporary opened on
Margate’s seafront in 2011, sparking
some major gentrification, in
the forms of craft breweries,
cupcake stalls, and Red Or Dead
designer Wayne Hemingway’s
2015 refurbishment of dilapidated
theme park Dreamland.
Across Thanet in 2018, shining
Apple logos reflect off 1950s
Formica and upcycled French
industrial workbenches as wi-fi
warriors tap away at their laptops
in retro cafes, while lunching on
superfood-packed Buddha bowls.
Move over Margate
Margate may hog all of seaside
Thanet’s attention, but just
five miles away, Ramsgate is an
architectural wonderland, with
Regency townhouses lining
crescents on the East and West
Cliffs, cottages huddled in
laneways, and mews houses a few
seconds from the magnificent
Royal Harbour. Here, between
scuba clubs, nautical hardware
stores, and the seafront Sailors’
Church, ornate former fishermen’s
arches have been transformed
into art galleries and vintage motor
museums. Bric-a-brac caves flog
SEASIDE STARS
RAMSGATE
Ubiquitous pub chain
JD Wetherspoon
has leased formerly
derelict concert hall
and casino The Royal
Victoria Pavilion
from the council, and
lavishly restored the
Grade II-listed building
from an eyesore into
a seafront focal point.
It’s now the biggest
Wetherspoon pub
in Britain.
HASTINGS
In 2016 a £14.2m
regeneration project
saw the reopening of
Hastings Pier, which
had been closed since
2008, and practically
destroyed by fire
in 2010. To restore
the pier rather than
demolish it makes a
bold statement about
the town’s future.
BLACKPOOL
Blackpool has a major
roller coaster set to
open in 2018 on the
Pleasure Beach, a new
conference centre next
to the Winter Gardens,
and a crop of hotels are
currenty being built.
MARGATE
After a disappointing
2015 relaunch, which
sadly retained the
funfair-in-a-car-park
vibes of yesteryear,
Dreamland was
reopened again in
May 2017, adding a
15,000-capacity music
venue and lots of much-
needed landscaping.
SCARBOROUGH
Alpamare water park
finally opened in July
IMAGE: JAMES DRAVEN
2016, after a seven-year
development hiatus,
boasting 35C-heated
outdoor infinity pools,
a spa, and four state-of-
the-art water slides.
 BRITISH SEASIDE

antique objets d’art at junk-shop
prices, while Scandi cafes sell
hipster homeware and avocado
on sourdough toast to all the
European yachties whose boats fill
the marina.
Up on Addington Street, retro
Vinylhead Cafe peddles 12-inch
LPs, seven-inch singles, and
four-inch chunks of gluten-free
chocolate brownie along with its
fantastic coffee. Ramsgate Music
Hall was voted Britain’s Best Small
Venue by NME in 2016. It’s clear
that for those in the know, Britain’s
coastal resorts have reclaimed
their cool.
“There’s been an 84% growth
in creative businesses and a 71%
increase in artist studios over
the past four years,” says Cllr
Chris Wells from Thanet District
Council. “This influential creative
cluster, attracted by the area’s
collaborative community, its
affordability, and its proximity
to London has put Thanet on the
international map.”
Thanet’s not the only area
reporting a resurgence in tourist
numbers. Samantha Richardson
from the National Coastal Tourism
Academy (NCTA) says: “In 2016
there were 70,000 overseas
visitors to Blackpool, compared
to 2015 when there were only
44,000.” According to the NCTA,
seaside tourism has also recently
regained its position as the largest
domestic overnight holiday sector.
The resurgence in the north
seems to be progressing more
slowly than down south, but
Blackpool’s fans don’t come for
sun. Anne Cutler, a data protection
officer at The University of
Sheffield, has visited dozens of
times and says Blackpool offers
what overseas holidays never
could: “Proper tea, proper pubs,
and sitting in the front room of
a boarding house with the rain
lashing down outside. Nowhere
abroad has Blackpool Tower,
the Ballroom, or three piers. Any
hipster enterprises in Blackpool
would have to be adopting an
extremely postmodern ironic
stance — it’s the most working-
class place I have ever been — but
it’s always had a big, tremendously
camp, gay scene.”
And the seaside is not just
reliant on staycationers. Tracey
Edginton from VisitBritain says,
“August 2017 was the highest
month for inbound tourism since
records began in 1961. There were
30.2 million overseas visits to the
UK in the first nine months of 2017
— an increase of 7% on 2016.”
Dr Anya Chapman, a senior
lecturer in tourism management,
explains what’s driving this
upturn: “The main spike for 2017
would be Brexit and the resultant
weak pound. This has caused a
recent rise in staycations and
international visitors. Combined
with the terror threat in major
cities, the UK coast is perceived
to be a ‘safe’ destination. Flagship
attractions have also helped: the
regeneration of Hastings Pier has
helped the resort become a much
more appealing weekend break.”
Six years ago, Carly McAuley,
a former care manager-turned
children’s fashion designer,
moved from London to start a
family in Hastings. “For us the big
draw was being able to double
the size of our property, halve our
mortgage and live off one salary.
My husband can work anywhere
we have a wi-fi connection.
Hastings has a proper cultural
mix, not unlike where we lived in
London. There are loads of trendy
bits, and quite a few scummy
bits, but that just makes for an
excellent balance.”
Towns such as Hastings,
Ramsgate and Blackpool may
be relics of the global seaside
tourism phenomenon invented
by the British centuries ago but
after years of neglect, artists,
designers and visionaries forced
out of the big cities by rising
prices are giving them the much-
needed lick of paint they deserve.
Our traditions — grand old dames
of Punch & Judy shows and
striped deck chairs — are being
preserved, or at least reimagined
as an outpost of urban chic.
Britain’s seaside towns are still
places of division, with the rich
buying properties formerly the
preserve of council tenants, but
in many ways we’re uniting to
regenerate our coastal resorts.
While liberal arty types are
dolling up our promenades,
Brexit has given the British
pound such a bashing it looks
like we’ll be staycationing a little
more than before.

QUOTES FROM THE COAST

Samantha Richardson,
National Coastal
Tourism Academy //
“The beauty of England’s
coastline is its variety — castles,
cliffs, sandy beaches, historic
ports, thriving resorts and small
fishing villages. While our
beaches attract millions in the
summer, the coast also offers
plenty of year-round activities,
with coastal paths, cycle tracks,
watersports and more.”
Dr Anya Chapman, Cllr Chris Wells,
senior lecturer in Thanet District
tourism management Council // “Thanet’s
at Bournemouth University // visitor economy grew by 19% in
“The nostalgia for the British 2015, making it one of the
seaside and all that it country’s biggest success
represents — fish and chips, stories. These numbers are
the beach, the promenades, confirmed by Southeastern
the piers — is a unique British [train company], which recently
asset and part of UK culture revealed that its high-speed
and heritage, and something service saw a 31% increase in
that is being increasingly off-peak travel to Thanet in
recognised as valuable.” 2015, compared to the 2013.”

May 2018 175

 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Finland’s season of

L I G H T
IMAGES: EEVA MÄKINEN; JULIA KIVELÄ; DANNY LAREDO

MANY WONDER HOW FINNS SURVIVE WITH NO SUNLIGHT IN THE WINTER, AND NATURE REPLIES
WITH 24 HOURS OF IT IN THE SUMMER. WHEN NIGHTS ARE ALMOST AS LIGHT AS DAY, FINLAND OPENS
UP WITH ITS FLOURISHING NATIONAL PARKS, WILDLIFE AND SUMMER FESTIVALS
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

TOP 10
Summer advent ures

1
NATIONAL PARKS
There are 40 national
parks in Finland,
scattered around the country’s
archipelago, lakes, forests,
peatlands and fells. They
showcase the country’s various
natural characteristics, such
as rapids, rift valleys and eskers
(winding ridges). Besides having
stunning scenery, the parks
are perfect for various year-
round outdoor pursuits,
including hiking, climbing
and snowshoeing.

2
BEAR WATCHING
For anyone
keen to join an
organised trip to see
and photograph wild
bears, the densely
forested borderlands
of Eastern Finland are
an ideal destination.
Around 1,500 brown
bears call Finland’s
thick forests home, and
the chances of sighting
these majestic beasts
are high on bear-
watching trips, which
normally run between
April and September.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

3
MIDNIGHT SUN FILM
FESTIVAL
The atmosphere of the
Midnight Sun Film Festival in
Sodankylä is one of the most
unique in the world: fascinating
film directors from around the
world, up-and-coming talents, an
international audience and the
inhabitants of Sodankylä gather
under the midnight sun to kick
back and soak up the vibe in the
relaxed and informal ‘spirit of
Sodankylä’.

4
MIDNIGHT SUN
Dark Arctic winters have
their counterpart in one of
the most iconic of Finnish natural
phenomena: the Midnight Sun.
Those who venture north of the
Arctic Circle will be greeted with
continuous daylight, as the sun
doesn’t set at all here from May
to August. Further south, the
summery scenes continue; the
sun can be visible for almost 24
hours a day during June and July.

5
PURE AIR
Some of the cleanest air in
the world can be found
in Finnish Lapland, in the
Muonio municipality of Western
Lapland to be precise. Finland’s
fortunate location far away from
some of the bigger cities means
pollution levels are extremely
low. There’s really only one big

IMAGES: JULIA KIVELÄ; ASKO KUITTINEN; VIRPI MIKKONEN; KEKSIT; JUSSI HELLSTÉN ; GETTY
city in Finland — Helsinki —
and, even there, locals breathe
air considered clean and good
quality on a European level.

6
EARLY-AUTUMN NORTHERN LIGHTS
Even though most of us associate
the aurora with cold and snowy
winter scenery, the most active seasons
are actually autumn and spring, when
the Earth’s orientation towards the sun
maximises the probability of solar flares.
interacting with the planet’s magnetic field
to generate this phenomenon.

7
NIGHT IN THE WILDERNESS
Have you always dreamt of sleeping
in a tent or a treehouse? Or perhaps
escaping to a secluded island and spending
a night in a lighthouse, enjoying quality
food and a sauna? Get in touch with your
wild side in Finland, where nature is never
too far away.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

8
WILD FOOD
Wild food from Finland can
be found almost everywhere
you look — fish in the sea and in
tens of thousands of lakes, as well as
berries, herbs and mushrooms in the
deep forests stretching all the way
from the south to the most northern
point of Lapland — adding lots of
seasonal dishes to the table.

10
SAUNA

9
WORLD HERITAGE If you
SITES want to
Finland is home truly get under the
to seven UNESCO World skin of Finland and
Heritage Sites, of which its people, there’s
six are cultural and one is no better way to do
natural. The tranquil Kvarken so then to book a
Archipelago and the Struve session in a sauna.
Geodetic Arc are the newest It’s a huge part of
additions to the list, which Finnish culture, and
already includes the imposing the intense steam is
Fortress of Suomenlinna and purported to have
the wooden town in numerous health
Old Rauma. benefits for bathers.

Where to go in Finland
ARCHIPELAGO
Finland’s coast has the world’s
largest archipelago, plus an
abundance of old wooden towns,
lighthouses, manors, churches,
and national parks. The laid-back
islander lifestyle and maritime
culture define this area. With
beaches, handicraft markets,
small-town events, cafes and
village shops, Finnish coastal
towns come to life in the summer.
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
HELSINKI
Finland’s capital is a vibrant
seaside city of beautiful islands
and parks. The city’s rhythm is
laid-back yet refreshingly active
in terms of both the number
and quality of restaurants and
nightclubs — with nature never
too far away, either. Helsinki’s
unique character comes from its
proximity to the sea, as well as its
location between East and West.
LAPLAND
Finnish Lapland, bathing in 24-hour sunlight for nearly three
months of the year, bestows wild berries and other treasures of the
forests with an intense flavour and health-giving properties. The
midnight sun calls for many activities, too, such as hiking on the
beautiful fells, or visiting cultural events.
IMAGES: JUSSI HELLSTÉN; TOBIAS MEYER ; EVASTAVALO’ OLLI OILINKI
LAKELAND
Finland is the land of a
thousand lakes, but to be
more precise, it’s the land
of hundreds of thousands of
lakes. Taking a trip to Lakeland
is like taking a trip into the
heart of Finnish identity, with
its deep green forests, the
rolling hills and the glittering
lakes that cover most of
central Finland.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
WIN
a five-day trip to
explore Southern Finland
Helsinki is a compact city easily explored on
foot. Design, culture, food and shopping are
all great exploration angles and large park
areas, forests, lakes, and the coastline — with
numerous islands sprinkled off it — ensure
there’s no shortage of natural presence.
ENTER AT
visit f inland.com/summer- of- ex tremes
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n Lunch or dinner in restaurant Saari
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A vanishing world
The beautiful photograph of the Suri girl
(Snapshot, March 2018) reminded me of
our own stay in the Omo Valley. We visited
many different tribes, each with their own
characteristics — we saw the beehive-
shaped homes of the Dorzi, and the Mursi,
who live on the edge of Mago National Park,
and paint their faces and bodies. The Mursi
women also sport huge lip and ear plates.
We were lucky enough to attend a Hamer
tribe’s coming-of-age ceremony where the
young men jump over bulls. We ate at Ben
Abeba (Hill of Flowers) restaurant near
Lalibela, co-owned by Susan Aitchison
from Motherwell — who’d have thought
we’d eat cottage pie in Ethiopia? We also
timed our visit to see the famous Timkat
festival, celebrating the baptism of Christ,
in Gondar. Ethiopia certainly represents a
‘vanishing world’. TOM KINGHORN
Chat back
NatGeoTravelUK
What’s your most treasured Italian memory and why? #NGTUK
@JUST_RETIRING So many to choose from but let’s go for the Maiella in Abruzzo // @HANNAHSAYS_ Naples
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// @LOLAAKINMADE Spending time with terracotta pan makers Maurizio and Rosella in Emilia Romagna
Use #NGTUK on your Instagram posts for a chance to be featured on our feed
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Empowering reading
It was a pleasure to read Emma Thomson’s
journey into modern Iran (Jan/Feb 2018).
What an epic adventure as a solo female
traveller and to somewhere I’d never dreamed
of travelling. Iran is now fi rmly on my list!
Her jovial account of meeting the new
generation of Iranians while staying at the
caravanserai enlightened my view of Iran.
As a reader whose mind regularly wanders
between the lines, it’s refreshing to fi nd a
writer with such humour and amiability. It’s
inspiring to see someone so clearly enjoying
their work through the pages. JO WILLIAMS
Tales from India
Emma Thomson’s evocative feature on
Māori life (April 2018) highlights the
balance between traditional cultures
being acknowledged and explored versus
protecting them from the onslaught that can
come from touristic interest. It reminded me
of a trip to the forests of Bastar in India. A
disturbed and misunderstood area, Bastar
hasn’t seen droves of tourists, for various
reasons, but tribal life continues at its own
pace. I felt privileged to have an insight into
an area where few have been, but was at the
same time torn between wondering whether
a greater tourist influx would solve the
problems of Bastar, or whether we’d destroy
something that continues to be pristine.
NANDINI CHAKRABORTY
@chanancw @ericjamesloh
May 2018 185
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�our pictures
We give you a theme, you give us the photos, and the
best are published in the next issue. This month is
NOW OPEN
The theme: ‘USA’.
Upload your high-res
image, plus a one-sentence
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‘Greece’ — the theme of our April 2018 cover story by 9 May 2018.
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Chris’ shot of a boy busking with his accordion on the streets of Athens to the conditions of every
coincidentally reflects this issue’s cover. It’s a fitting book end to this month’s degree. RRP: £139.95
edition, but Chris’ use of depth of field makes it a photo worthy in its own right. incase.eu

W I N N E R

1 CHRIS HARDWICK // HITHER GREEN, LONDON: This

boy was busking in central Athens, concentrating
hard on the accordion. Several professional musicians
played nearby but his quiet determination inspired me.

2 ALEX TREADWAY // ISLINGTON, LONDON: In the

spring, the Mani Peninsula explodes into colour with
an abundance of wild flowers. I was exploring little
overgrown trails near Milea when I took this shot.

3 STEPHEN MCDONALD // HIGH WYCOMBE,

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE: This is a shot of the Dionysus
Theatre, just by the Acropolis in Athens. I loved the
way the light fell on the structure.

To find out more about the next theme, enter and

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 April
2018

Contents

120

FEATURES

78 Greece 110 Russia 132 City life: Mumbai

The Cyclades are as dynamic as From city canals to the mighty While its Victorian architecture
they are idyllic — you just need Volga, Russia’s myriad waterways nods to its colonial past, Mumbai
to know where to look have many a story to tell is fully in the 21st century

96 New Zealand 120 In pictures: 142 City life: Bordeaux

Beyond the roar of the haka, the South Korea Basking in its post-regeneration Issue 64
most authentic Māori culture is Getting to know the food and glow, welcome to a city that Sunset in Oia, Santorini
found off the beaten track freedivers of Jeju Island buzzes with joie de vivre IMAGE: Getty

April 2018 5
 April
2018

Contents

25 58 65

SMART TRAVELLER 37 Top 5 TRAVEL GEEKS

15 Snapshot
Guide Ricardo Castro in Pucón, Chile
17 Editors’ picks
These are a few of our favourite things
18 Big picture
Flower power in Newport, Virginia
20 What’s new
Picasso at the Tate and cherry blossoms
25 Ninja style
The new wave of Japanese stealth
26 Do it now
Getting to grips with sporting challenges
29 Food
A delve into Peru’s booming food scene
31 On the trail
Weaving through Suffolk’s wool towns
32 Rooms
The coolest beds in Montevideo
34 Family
A Paddington-themed classic train journey
Alaska through the eyes of a local
39 Stay at home
A rural escape to Rutland Water
41 The word
David Hurn’s Arizona Trips
49 Author series
Selina Siak Chin Yoke on Malaysia
50 View from the USA
Aaron Millar on voodoo in the Deep South
52 Online
Weekly highlights from natgeotraveller.co.uk
INSIDER
54 Weekender: Tunis
French flair meets ancient ruins
58 Eat: Lisbon
Tucking into the Portuguese capital
65 Neighbourhood: Istanbul
Exploring the streets of a cultural crossroads
70 Sleep: Miami
Where to bed down in Florida’s sunny south
150 Travel Geeks
The experts’ travel manual
160 Just for Laughs
Breaking a leg at Montreal’s comedy festival
GET IN TOUCH
193 Inbox
Your letters, emails and tweets
194 Your pictures
This month’s best travel photos
DON’T MISS
12 The Masterclasses
An entire day of our popular sessions
44 Travel Writing Competition
Fancy seeing your name in print?
46 Big Sleep Awards
Tell us all about your favourite hotels
166Photography Competition
2018 winners
View the spectacular winning entries

Competition Turn to p.43 for a chance to win a four-night stay in Saalbach, Austria

6 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 Contributors
National Geographic Traveller (UK) APL Media

Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editorial Manager:

Pól Ó Conghaile
Oh, the memories of the Greek Cyclades:
I ate beautifully, I swam in clear seas, I
had long, meandering conversations with
locals, and best of all — I didn’t get sick
on the ferries. Before this trip, I liked the
Cyclades. Now, I’m in love. GREECE P.78
Emma Thomson
Travellers claim Māori culture is akin to a
closed book, but you don’t have to settle
for staged thigh-slapping hakas. From
fashion labels to foraging through the ferns,
the culture is unfurling and undergoing a
renaissance. NEW ZEALAND P.96
Editor: Pat Riddell
Deputy Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro
Executive Editor: Glen Mutel
Associate Editors:
Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup
Assistant Editors:
Tamsin Wressell, Connor McGovern
Project Editor: Zane Henry
Online Editor: Josephine Price
Content Editor:
Charlotte Wigram-Evans
Sub Editors: Chris Horton,
Nick Rutherford
Operations Manager:
Seamus McDermott
Events Manager: Natalie Jackson
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Russia was one of the most fascinating
stories I’ve ever done. From tower blocks to
palaces, the country encompasses a range
of aesthetics. But for me, its heart was the
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National
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so glad I got to know. RUSSIA P.110 National Geographic Traveler (US) National Geographic Society

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It’s always a good sign when you can
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 HIGHLIGHTS

Editor’s
letter Rome guide

A
Our free, 28-page guide is packed with
s you approach Santorini on the ferry from inspiring stories and practical advice for
Piraeus, something remarkable happens. The making the most of a trip to the Eternal City.
sullen faces, bored children and busying families
who treat the journey as one might treat a commute
anywhere in the world — albeit one that lasts hours
— spring to life, flocking to one side of the ship like bees
to pollen. The sight of the world-famous caldera
— resplendent in the late-afternoon sun — draws gasps,
cameras and admiring gazes; its colours and shadows The Masterclasses
Calling all budding travel writers and
narrowing as the sun sinks ever lower on the horizon. photographers — our full day of sessions will
Unlike many of those who disembarked, we didn’t head give you all the advice you need (p.12).
immediately for Oia or Fira and their postcard-perfect
volcanic panoramas. Instead, we aimed for Pyrgos,
Santorini’s highest point, our driver taking us as far as he
could before we had to walk the final few hundred metres
to our hotel, close to the ruins of a Venetian castle. From
here, our view was of vineyards, medieval villages and
black-sand beaches on the island’s ‘other side’. Big Sleep Awards
Have you been bowled over by a hotel’s
There’s no denying Santorini and Mykonos have a magic
service? We want to hear all about your stand-
that lures millions of visitors annually, but these islands out stays for our annual hotel awards (p.46).
always have another side, where life goes on just as it ever
has. And what of the other Cyclades islands? They’re as
numerous as their local cultures, ancient civilisations and
distinctive landscapes, as Pól Ó Conghaile discovers on
p.78. Explore out of season and meet the locals who make
the Cyclades such an enduring destination.
Travel Geeks: Japan — 24 April
PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR We’re hosting a Travel Geeks with Walk
Japan at London’s wallacespace. Join us!
@patriddell natgeotraveller.co.uk/events
@patriddell

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

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Travel Writers Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • ATTA Media Awards 2017: Best Cultural Article on an African Destination, Best Blogger on Africa & Best Online Coverage
on Africa • British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Travel Awards 2014:
Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • British Guild of Travel Writers Awards 2013: Best Overseas Feature • British Travel Press Awards 2012: Young Travel Writer of the Year

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10 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SMART TRAVELLER // EVENTS

Masterclasses The
AN EXPERT-LED DAY OF TRAVEL WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY

If you fancy yourself as a travel writer or photographer,

then look no further — we’ve got just the ticket

B o o k n ow
£40
IMAGE: GETTY

12 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SMART TRAVELLER // EVENTS

Didn’t make it to last year’s National Geographic Traveller Festival? MEET THE

1 Don’t panic. For the first time ever, we’re organising an entire day of the
Festival’s most popular sessions: our Travel Writing and Photography
NATIONAL
GEOGRAPHIC
J U LY Masterclasses. Led by the National Geographic Traveller (UK) team, TRAVELLER (UK)
along with a whole host of travel writers and photographers, we’ve got TEAM
all the tips and advice you’ll need to put you on the path to success

PHOTOGRAPHY
MASTERCLASSES
From getting kitted up to getting
published, we’ve got it all covered in
our photography sessions. Award-
winning travel photographers will
talk you through the ins and outs of
getting that perfect shot, as well as
how to best share your portfolio and
MARIA PIERI //
TRAVEL WRITING EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
MASTERCLASSES
Whether you want to know what an
editor’s looking for, or need some
expert tips on perfecting your prose,
this one’s for you. Our experienced
editors and writers will be on hand to
explain the dos and don’ts of travel PAT RIDDELL //
writing, as well as share their own EDITOR

approaching an editor. stories of how they got there.

SESSIONS INCLUDE: SESSIONS INCLUDE:

• Going wild (wildlife) • Beginnings and endings
• Epic scenes (landscape) • How to pitch
• Under the skin (portraiture) • Q&A with the team
• Street talking (street scenes) • Dos and don’ts STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO //
• Get noticed • The secret of my success DEPUTY EDITOR
…and more …and more

SARAH BARRELL //
ASSOCIATE EDITOR

GLEN MUTEL //
EXECUTIVE EDITOR

ONE-ON-ONE THE DETAILS

TUTORIALS
Want some in-depth, expert
feedback on your work? Book a
one-on-one tutorial session with
one of our travel writers or travel
photographers who’ll give you
TIME: Sunday 1 July 2018, 10am-6pm
WHERE: University of Westminster,
Marylebone Road, London NW1 5LS JO FLETCHER-CROSS //
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

tailored advice on how to improve TICKETS: special offer £40, down

and polish your work. from £50. Two for £70. One-on-one
More info at natgeotraveller.co.uk tutorials £25

MORE INFORMATION ON SESSIONS,

CHRIS HUDSON //
ART DIRECTOR

SPEAKERS AND TICKETS AT

NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/ ...PLUS AWARD-WINNING
TRAVEL WRITERS AND
THEMASTERCLASSES PHOTOGRAPHERS

April 2018 13
 Mount Bromo

Accommodation Jeep Check Point Dining Culture

Plataran Bromo
One-Stop Destination in Bromo
Plataran Bromo captivates you to the natural world in its evocative beauty. A perfect base for those
seeking not only to soak in the splendorous natural surroundings of Mt. Bromo, but also to
encounter the deeply rooted culture that lies behind it.

From various accommodation options inspired by nature for comfort and convenience to 'above
the cloud' dining experience to entice all your senses, Plataran Bromo is a one-stop destination to
explore the mystical UNESCO Heritage Site - Mt. Bromo.

Discover more at www.plataran.com/bromo

HOTELS & RESORTS • PRIVATE CRUISES • VENUES & DINING • ECO TOURISM DEVELOPMENT

Borobudur | Bromo | Canggu | Cilandak | Dharmawangsa | Komodo

Menjangan - West Bali National Park | Menteng | Sumba 2017 T AI N A BL
US
Tugu - Puncak | Ubud | Wijaya
E
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2017
NS
DE

ST
www.plataran.com INA TI O
 SMART TRAVELLER
What’s new // Do it now // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Ricardo Castro,
Chile
I spent a few days being shown around the
incredible Araucanía Region in central Chile on
an assignment with passionate guide Ricardo.
The region is famous for being home to the
Villarrica volcano, one of the country’s most
active, which looms above the town of Pucón.
Ricardo leads groups up to Villarrica’s rim
almost every morning during high season. As
well as being incredibly knowledgeable about
the region and the outdoor activities on offer,
Ricardo also introduced me to the excellent
local food scene — it’s safe to say I ate very well
during our time together in Pucón.
ANNAPURNA MELLOR // PHOTOGRAPHER

@annapurnauna
annapurnamellorphotography.com

April 2018 15

Editos' icks
We’ve been here and we’ve been there, and our team
have found a few things we thought we’d share
TOP 3
Family highs
New family experiences for 2018
by Scott Dunn
1 ‘FLYING NANNIES’ ARE
AVAILABLE IN A NEW PORTFOLIO
OF IBIZA VILLAS — qualified
childminders are flown in to be
available on arrival to play with
your kids and arrange meals.
2 ‘FLYING CHEFS’ IN MAJORCA
FOR RATHER SPECIAL IN-VILLA
DINING — the likes of Monica
Galetti, Pierre Koffmann, Andrew
Wong or Mauro Colagreco will
cook for eight to 12 guests for
a whopping £14,000.
3 WORKING RANCHES FOR TEENS
IN ANDALUSIA ON A 600-ACRE
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
ECO-FARM — since the kids have
had their nannies and chefs,
it’s time to get them
working! scottdunn.com
MARIA PIERI
L’ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES
WHAT: Paris’s first digital art centre
WHERE: A renovated 19th-
century foundry in Paris’s 11th
arrondissement from April 2018.
TELL ME MORE: Following the
Carrières de Lumières museum in
Provence, this second outpost will
project digital versions of works by
Klimt, Bosch, Chagall and more.
atelier-lumieres.com JOSEPHINE PRICE
WHAT WE’RE READING
Londoners by Craig Taylor.
RRP: £9.99 (Granta Publications)
CONNOR MCGOVERN
The Story of the Face by Paul
Gorman. RRP: £34.95 (Thames &
Hudson) PAT RIDDELL
Happy by Derren Brown.
RRP: £8.99 (Bantam Press)
STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO
Curry: Eating, Reading and Race
by Naben Ruthnum. RRP: £8
(Coach House Books) ZANE HENRY
heritage sites, including
monument in Bulgaria,
EDS’ PICKS // SMART TRAVELLER
SILVER SCREEN
Start your engines — opening in Nashville this
year, August Moon Drive-In is a blast from the
past. With 1,000 parking spaces, pull up to
watch a flick beneath a dome that can simulate
fireflies, sunsets and starts. Classic cars,
hammocks and trees complete the atmosphere,
while burgers and shakes add some flavour
to this slice of quintessential Americana.
augustmoondrivein.com STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO
IN NUMBERS
SAVE OUR SITES WORLD’S LARGEST
UNDERWATER CAVE SYSTEM
Spare a thought for
Europe’s neglected 216
monuments. Europa Length in miles of the cave
Nostra has compiled discovered by divers in Mexico
a list of 12 ‘at-risk’ 2
Number of caves linked together
to create the system off the
a dozen churches in Yucatán Peninsula
Albania, a modernist
10
Months spent swimming through
and the UK’s first ice tunnels to prove the flooded
caverns were connected
factory in Grimsby.
europanostra.org 358
Submerged cave systems
CONNOR
surveyed by the divers
MCGOVERN
TAMSIN WRESSELL
April 2018 17
SMART TRAVELLER

18 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Virginia, USA
Gwyn Hamilton picks dahlias along the terraces
of Newport’s Stonecrop Farm before the
sun burns off the morning fog. This image is
part of a larger series documenting farmers
in Appalachia, putting faces to the women
working in agriculture around southwest
Virginia. Gwynn and her husband own
Stonecrop Farm, which sits on a steep hillside
high above the New River. They’ve spent 13
years terracing the hillside and converting the
clay to fertile soil. Gwynn specialises in growing
flowers, fruits, vegetables and microgreens,
which she sells to local restaurants and at the
Blacksburg Farmers Market. She’s one of many
women at the centre of a rising interest in
sustainable agriculture in the region.
JOE MRAVA & AUSTIN LEDZIAN

wfarmers.com
@pixbyjoe @austinledzian

April 2018 19
SMART TRAVELLER // WHAT’S NEW

MAIN IMAGE: PABLO PICASSO; NUDE, GREEN LEAVES AND BUST (FEMME NUE, FEUILLES ET BUSTE), 1932, PRIVATE COLLECTION, © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON, 2017. SECONDARY
IMAGE: PABLO PICASSO, NUDE WOMAN IN A RED ARMCHAIR (FEMME NUE DANS UN FAUTEUIL ROUGE), 1932, TATE. PURCHASED 1953, © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON, 2017
STATE OF THE ART

Where to see more

Nude reunion
ON SCREEN
Antonio Banderas plays Picasso in
National Geographic’s new series
of biographical anthology drama,
Genius. The first episode airs on 24
April. nationalgeographic.com

IN SPAIN
Seen as Picasso’s most powerful
painting, Guernica is a mural-sized
oil, painted in 1937 in response to
Three of Picasso’s most famous paintings are reunited at the Nazi bombing of the eponymous
London’s Tate Modern this month — the first time they’ve town during the Spanish Civil War.
After spending decades touring
been shown together since (they were created in) 1932 Europe and America, it moved
from MOMA New York to Spain in
1981 and today resides in a newly
Celebrated for cementing his role at the and shown the same year for the final time renovated room at the Reina Sofia,
centre of 20th-century art, three much before becoming the preserve of private Madrid. museoreinasofia.es
lauded nude studies of Picasso’s lover, Marie- collectors for decades. This is the first
Thérèse Walter, are finally being reunited at solo Picasso show staged at the Tate IN NYC
the Tate Modern after having been estranged Modern, bringing together his PICASSO Many of Picasso’s works are on
in private collections for decades. It’s 86 nudes and all of the above works 1932 — LOVE, loan from MOMA New York to the
FAME, TRAGEDY will Tate Modern for the big summer
years since Picasso produced: Nude, Green for the first time, along with
be at the Tate Modern solo exhibition, but among
Leaves and Bust; Nude in a Black Armchair; his much-loved Nude Woman from 8 March to 9 those remaining in Manhattan
and The Mirror. 1932 was a prolific year for in a Red Armchair, over 100 September 2018. are such iconic pieces as Girl
the artist, resulting in such masterpieces sculptures, paintings and works tate.org.uk with a Mandolin (1910), and Les
as Rest, Sleep, The Dream, and the iconic on paper including 13 seminal ink Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907).
Girl before a Mirror. Along with these were drawings of the crucifixion — much moma.org
paintings of Marie-Thérèse Walter, which of which has never been exhibited in the UK
were created over just five days in March, before. SARAH BARRELL

20 natgeotraveller.co.uk
DISCOVER THE UNIQUE BEAUTY
OF KRKA NATIONAL PARK

Reserve your tickets on time

www.parkovihrvatske.hr/webshop
www.np-krka.hr
 WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

Cherry blossoms
BLOOMING
MARVELLOUS
Cherry blossoms have long been
synonymous with Japan, but there are
other places that celebrate sakura season

Spain South Korea USA Brazil

Cherry trees in Spain’s Jerte In southern Korea, near the The Sakura Matsuri festival runs Sakura bloom from late June
Valley produce a flurry of city of Gwangju, Juknokwon from 28-29 April at the Brooklyn to early July at the Botanical
distinctive snowy white blooms Bamboo Forest’s cathedral of Botanic Garden in the heart of Garden of Curitiba in Brazil. The
IMAGES: GETTY

that cover the hillsides in March, dense bamboo stems is struck New York City. The event draws trees are vestiges of a surge of
an event that’s marked by the through with bursts of pink and hordes of Japanophiles as well Japanese immigrants to Brazil
Fiesta del Cerezo en Flor festival. white blossoms from late March as enthusiastic Instagrammers. in the fi rst half of last century.
turismovalledeljerte.com to early April. bbg.org ZANE HENRY

Everything changes
Cherry blossoms, and their transient but
beautiful annual appearance, are tied to
the uniquely Japanese concept of ‘mono
no aware’, meaning ‘an awareness of the
impermanence of things’

April 2018 23
 WHAT’S NEW // SMART TRAVELLER

Fight or flight
THE NINJA
NEW WAVE
Long veiled in intrigue, one of
Japan’s most renowned cultural
icons is undergoing a renaissance

Whilst their guile and grace have inspired everything

from ancient Japanese woodblock printers to a group
of teenage turtles, the way of the ninja has sadly
been slipping into obscurity. Thankfully, things
are changing. With Japan’s sights fi rmly set on its
spell in the sporting spotlight (cue Rugby World Cup
and Olympic Games), the uniquely Japanese art of
ninjutsu is stepping into the spotlight, too. Whether
it’s learning the basics yourself or bedding down
in the heartland of ninja culture, a clutch of new
offerings to highlight the tradition, skill and ancient WANT TO

heritage of ninjutsu are set to open later this year KNOW MORE?
Keep an eye on
— without a single turtle in sight. CONNOR MCGOVERN
the Japan Ninja
Council’s website for
announcements.
ninja-official.com

On the trail
OUT OF THE BLUE Follow in the footsteps of the ninja by visiting
the regions most closely linked to their
Ninjas are often history. A ‘circular tour’ takes in Tokyo and
Nagoya, while a more immersive ‘stay tour’
depicted in black, an lets you settle in regions such as Iga for four
image that comes from nights to really get under the skin of this
Japan’s kabuki theatre. fascinating culture.

In fact, ninjas wore

everyday clothes in So you want to be a ninja?
Look no further. To preserve and promote
the daytime, and dark ninja culture, Tokyo is soon to open a Ninja
blue by night — far Academy where novices will be taught the
better for concealing basics by Jinichi Kawakami, known as
IMAGES: ALAMY

the ‘Last Ninja’. If you’re not up for such

themselves in the dark a physically demanding challenge, check
out the Ninja Museum, also set to open in
Tokyo’s Sumida Ward later this year.

April 2018 25
SMART TRAVELLER // DO IT NOW

DID YOU KNOW?

At a 48-hour-
long Spartan
Death Race,
participants
had to eat
a bag of
raw onions

Sporting challenges
OVERCOMING
OBSTACLES TOP 4

Epic sporting challenges aren’t all about how Get over it

fast you cross the finish line, but getting out
of your comfort zone with your team in tow
Whether it’s crawling through mud or under electric wire, leaping
through flames or into icy water, the nascent sport of obstacle course
racing (OCR) is booming. And many hardcore fans are prepared to
travel huge distances to take part in gruelling events worldwide.
This multi-million-pound business even has a recently
formed international body, the International Obstacle
Racing Federation, which is lobbying for OCR to be
RAT RACE DIRTY WEEKEND
A range of courses, but the hardcore opt for
the 20-mile course with 200 obstacles — and
go round twice. Expect a festival atmosphere
and around 7,000 competitors. Burghley, UK,
12 May. ratrace.com/dirtyweekend2018
WORLD’S TOUGHEST MUDDER GEORGIA
A 24-hour challenge where the object is to see
which individual and team can do the most laps
in the time given. Fairburn, Georgia, USA, 10
November. toughmudder.com

included in the 2024 Olympics. With some of the

best-known events placing emphasis on completing
IRON VIKING
A 26-mile race taking in 100 ‘Viking-themed’
a course in the fastest time possible, it’s no surprise
obstacles. Annual events take place in the
that OCR now has professional athletes seeking Netherlands, Germany, Belgium and Denmark
sponsorship and prize money. from April to September. strongviking.com/en
However, the majority of
participants still prefer VILNIUS CHALLENGE
entering as teams for non-
competitive fun, so many 3,000 The number of
For those seeking something less gruelling
and muddy — and a lot more cultural — this
challenge takes place in the Lithuanian
organisers now offer races
calories an average capital, and involves cycling, orienteering,
in multiple countries.
competitor will burn climbing, paddling, solving puzzles and
Adding destinations like scrambling over the odd obstacle. 2 June.
when completing
IMAGES: GETTY

Iceland and China means a 10-mile Tough vilniuschallenge.lt

competitors can combine Mudder event
adrenaline rush and culture.
obstaclesports.org SAM LEWIS

26 natgeotraveller.co.uk
R E VO L U T I O N
An entirely new class of yacht

PRINCESSYACHTS.COM

A
TASTE
OF
Peru
Chef Virgilio Martinez has
helped put Peru on the food
map with Lima restaurant
Central. He reveals his
favourite places to dine,
from the capital to Cusco
and beyond
Peruvian food is undergoing a
revolution — a rediscovery of
homegrown products, mostly
from the Andes. Chefs are
amassing knowledge on the use
of tubers and vegetable roots,
along with ancient Andean grains
and corn varieties. Ingredients
and cooking techniques are
migrating from the Andes to
the coast, making a big impact
in restaurants: a boon to small
producers in the mountains,
who now have many new routes
to market.
Seafood stars
Peruvian staple ceviche is a
raw, marinated seafood dish.
I like to use sole, onions, and
‘tiger milk’ (a citrus marinade).
Try it in Lima at Chez Wong
or La Mar, a cevicheria that
elevates seafood to new
heights, with causa (potato
salad with seafood and veg)
and nigiri (sushi). A new must-
try, Jerónimo, mixes Peruvian
and Mexican cuisines.
INSIDER’S LIMA
EL PAN DE LA CHOLA: An amazing
panaderia (bakery). Buy a loaf or
IMAGES: ALAMY
head to the buzzy cafe for pizza,
pastries and sandwiches, served
with great coffee. Avenida La
Mar 918, Miraflores.
Coca bread
Uchucuta
(tomato
& cheese
salsa)
MAIDO: An innovative restaurant,
serving Nikkei (Japanese-
Peruvian fusion cuisine) — a big
thing in Peru. Don’t miss tiradito,
a blend of Peruvian ceviche and
Japanese sashimi. maido.pe
FOOD // SMART TRAVELLER
Yuca bread
VIRGILIO
MARTINEZ
is owner/head chef at
Central (at five on the 2017
World’s 50 Best Restaurants list),
set to move to a new spot in Lima
this July. He also owns Mil, high
in the Andes near Inca ruins in
Cusco. Get a taste of Virgilio’s
cuisine at Lima in London.
centralrestaurante.
com.pe
Sky-high dining: Andean eats 
EL HUACATAY: Located in Peru’s Secret Valley
region, El Huacatay serves typical Andean
dishes. Try the trout tartare with guacamole
and a calamari sauce, and Huacatay-style
alpaca carpaccio. elhuacatay.com
CHICHA: At the Cusco and Arequipe branches
Cacao
of Chicha, try chef Gastón Acurio’s Andean
nibs with
superfood chupe (Peruvian chowder), made
potato
with quinoa, olluco (a potato-like tuber), and
zapallo (pumpkin), with tofu, coconut milk,
Burnt butter yellow curry paste and mint. chicha.com.pe
ISOLNA: A Peruvian-Creole FIESTA: Gourmet, home-style
tavern (one of the World’s 50 Best Moche food (Northern Peruvian)
Restaurants), serving comfort devised by Chef Hector Solís,
food refi ned by chef Chef José whose arroz con pato (rice with
del Castillo. Avenida San Martín duck) is now as famous as he is.
Prolongacion 101, Barranco. restaurantfiestagourmet.com
April 2018 29
Fly from Edinburgh
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THE WOOL TOWNS WALK
Suffolk
This nine-mile walk follows the Stour Valley Path as it journeys between Long
Melford and Clare, two of Suffolk’s medieval wool towns. Words: Sarah Barrell
1 LONG MELFORD
Site of two 16th-century halls, including
Melford Hall; Beatrix Potter frequently visited
in the 1880s, drawing inspiration for her
illustrations. Melford’s cathedral-proportioned
church, built in the wool industry boom, is one
of the country’s grandest parish churches.
3 THE GLEM VALLEY
The Glem Valley offers panoramic views of
open Suffolk farmland and countryside. In the
village of Glemsford, spot the huge, carved
15th-century corner post on the timber-framed
house adjacent to the Angel pub. It was once
home of John Cavendish, secretary to powerful
Tudor cardinal Thomas Wolsey.
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
4 CAVENDISH
A postcard-perfect Suffolk village, its green
surrounded by pastel-coloured houses and
St Mary’s church, whose chancel is set
beneath the nave; it’s one of only four
churches like it in the country. Choose from
three pretty pubs as a lunch stop.
ON THE TRAIL // SMART TRAVELLER
2 KENTWELL
Look out for local longhorn cattle as you walk into
Kentwell, home to one of England’s finest moated Tudor houses,
built at the height of the wool trade. The surrounding Dedham Vale and
Stour River Valley are known as Constable Country. The landscape
painter lived here, creating The Hay Wain and other famous works in
the late 18th century.
This new route forms one stage of the
Wool Towns’ Walk, linking Clare, Long
Melford, Lavenham, Hadleigh and
Sudbury in a 50-mile loop; featured as
part of Suffolk Walking Festival (12
5 CLARE May-3 June) with 120 walks and fringe
This small town’s impressively large parish events. suffolkwalkingfestival.co.uk
church is a testament to the wealth of Suffolk’s
wool towns during the industry’s medieval
heights. Clare’s Callis Street is said to derive
from ‘Calais’, the compulsory port for wool
exports from the late 14th century. wooltowns.co.uk visitsuffolk.com
April 2018 31
SMART TRAVELLER // ROOMS

�ontevideo
WHERE TO STAY 2 ALMA HISTORICA
Part upmarket B&B, part hotel, this
renovation of a belle epoque building
whirls you back to Montevideo’s turn-of-
the-century heyday. Rooms are dressed
in antiques, and a first-floor lounge is
filled with books. Doubles from £119,
room only. almahistoricahotel.com

3 SPLENDIDO PETIT HOTEL

Buenos Aires look out: just across the river, Montevideo’s
‘Hotel’ doesn’t begin to describe this
drawing a younger crowd of hip hippy travellers to Uruguay place. Is it a shabby-chic hotel? An
with its affordable hotels and laidback vibe upmarket fleapit? A bit of both? Any
IMAGES: ALEXIS SPERONI; GIANNI FRANCHELLUCCI

which way, it’s glorious. En suite rooms

are filled with both dark-wood antiques
1 ALOFT and 1970s kitsch. Doubles from £30,
Yes, it’s a chain hotel, but don’t let that put you off. The Aloft opened room only. splendidohotel.com.uy
in September 2017 — not just as a hotel, but also a sign of change in
Montevideo. Long seen as the dowdy sibling to full-throttle Buenos
4 CASA ROBERTO
Aires, visitors are waking up to the Uruguayan capital’s art deco
Italian owner Roberto Begnini has
architecture, laidback vibe (cannabis is legal), cultural history (tango stamped his mark on this five-room
was born here, not in Argentina, locals insist), and beautiful beaches. maison d’hôtes. Everything in the hotel’s
Housed in a glass-fronted towerblock near the beach in posh Punta available to buy, while the restaurant,
Carretas, the hotel’s 108 rooms have a slick, youthful feel. It has a Delicatessen, brings a taste of Italy
rooftop bar, 15th floor indoor swimming pool, the W Xyz bar and to Uruguay. Doubles from £89, B&B.
Re:Fuel snack bar. Doubles from £93, B&B. aloft.com JULIA BUCKLEY casaroberto.uy

32 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 YOUR 4 STAR BASECAMP TO EXPLORE TRENTINO

A new hotel, at the Brenta Dolomites feet, that speaks at your outdoor
activities passion. But also designed for your wellbeing.

+39 0463 735000 — info@monroc.it — www.monroc.it /monroc-hotel

SMART TRAVELLER // FAMILY

The British Pullamn

GOING ON A
BEAR HUNT
Marmalade and tea prove a winning
combination on a Paddington-themed
steam train trip

Hands up — who expected the Paddington
films to be so good? Not me, certainly. When
I first heard the Peruvian bear was heading
to the big screen, I feared the worse — but I’d
now happily put both movies in that precious
category: ‘Films daddy can stand his children
watching over and over again.’
So, the prospect of a Paddington-themed
daddy-daughter day out seemed too good to
miss, especially one set to take place on the
Belmond British Pullman. And for
all Paddington’s appeal, the train
was definitely the star of the
show, from its glorious steam
locomotive to the beautifully
crafted carriages, each one
distinct and decked out
like a Victorian parlour.
Our carriage was
called Vera, and as
I sat in my armchair,
enjoying afternoon tea
(including marmalade sandwiches,
naturally), the train performed a circuit of
leafy southern England, while a series of
performers came by at intervals just regular
enough to ensure the trip felt family-friendly.
These able players included a trilby-
wearing storyteller with a pencil-thin
moustache who regaled us with tales of our
favourite bear, plus two highly entertaining
magicians and a trio of glamorous singers
who serenaded our carriage with upbeat,
jazz-inflected Christmas carols.
A goody bag including a toy
Paddington and a Hornby train
carriage, alongside a meeting
with a life-size Paddington
upon disembarking made
this particular day a
resounding success.
The next Paddington
Afternoon Tea journey
departs on 7 April, and costs
from £800 for a family of four.
belmond.com GLEN MUTEL

FOUR TO TRY

Steam dreams
SOUTH DEVON RAILWAY
Devon is something of a hotbed for kid-
friendly train attractions, but this historic
steam service, traversing a seven-mile
route through the valley of the River Dart,
is something special. Combine your journey
with a discounted trip to the nearby Totnes
Rare Breeds Farm and the Dartmoor Otter
Sanctuary. southdevonrailway.co.uk
ISLE OF WIGHT STEAM RAILWAY
Settle back in a handsome Victorian or
Edwardian carriage, and let a steam engine
puff you through five miles of the island’s
prettiest countryside. Better still, time your
visit to coincide with a family-themed event,
such as the Teddy Bear Days, or combine
your ticket with the Haven Falconry Bird of
Prey Centre. iwsteamrailway.co.uk

SEVERN VALLEY RAILWAY BO’NESS & KINNEL RAILWAY 

This hugely popular Shropshire steam service
is one of the country’s most atmospheric,
and if your children aren’t captivated by the
stunning scenery, there’s also a museum, two
miniature railways and a railway-themed play
area along the route — not to mention the
intriguing Ghost Train events. svr.co.uk
The Flying Scotsman may be world famous,
but the Bo’ness & Kinnel is perhaps
Scotland’s best family steam outing,
on account of its regular events (from
Thomas the Tank Engine to Santa) and the
spectacular Museum of Scottish Railways in
Bo’ness. bkrailway.co.uk

34 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 TOP 5 // SMART TRAVELLER

FIVE TO TRY

My Homer
Take a fisherman’s advice, and try locally sourced
grub — from the daily catch to gorgonzola and pear
CLAIRE NEATON
A commercial fisherman in
Alaska, Claire’s one-half
of the Salmon Sisters, a
business that celebrates the
Alaskan fishing community.
At the age of 10, she moved
to Homer — a fishing city
known for its halibut and
pizza — in this small Alaskan city by the sea growing restaurant scene.

LITTLE MERMAID
I love this restaurant’s philosophy
and dedication to local, wild and
sustainable produce, including
Alaskan seafood. The ‘daily
catch’ is always a tasty option,
featuring wild Alaskan rockfish,
halibut, scallops and prawns. The
restaurant’s one of our favourite
places to celebrate the end of
the fishing season with our crew.
littlemermaidhomer.com

FINN’S PIZZA
We wait all winter for this pizza
restaurant to open — it’s that good.
You order downstairs and then
climb the stairs to the solarium, a
glass, enclosed eating area with the
best view of Kachemak Bay. Finn’s
also sources most of its ingredients
IMAGES: ALAMY

from around Homer. The Blue

Pear pizza (with gorgonzola, pine
nuts and organic pears) is a must.
finnspizza.co

TWO SISTERS BAKERY LA BALEINE CAFÉ THE BAGEL SHOP

This is a Homer mainstay, and
while its takeaway baked goods
are amazing, it’s the dinner
specials that draw me in every
time. The panko-crusted and
roasted rockfish is a family
favourite, and we dream about the
spicy scallop pasta with chorizo,
tomato, kale and chilli lime cream
sauce during our long days out at
sea. twosistersbakery.net
La Baleine is the best place to go to
pick up a hearty breakfast or lunch.
It’s an artisan cafe committed
to offering the best local and
organic ingredients. I could eat the
Musher Meal breakfast (which has
cumin-scented corn tortillas with
black beans, brown rice, reindeer
sausage, eggs, manchego, salsa
and pickled red onion) every day.
labaleinecafe.com
This serves the best bagels in
town and quite possibly in Alaska.
Owners Gabe and Mikela have
brought so much positive energy
to our small town. I can’t get
enough of the classic Bagel & Lox
made with wild sockeye nova lox.
If it’s a special occasion, I’ll treat
myself to a bagel with the queen
of the Alaska seafood — smoked
black cod. thebagelshopalaska.com

April 2018 37
Simply Search, Compare & Select
to find yourself in the most amazing places
Where would you like to go SEARCH

“I seek out the most amazing touring holidays from

the UK’s leading touring specialists. What can I fetch for you?”

SEARCH ● COMPARE ● SELECT www.tourhound.co.uk

 UK // SMART TRAVELLER

WE LIKE
STAY AT HOME

uland Wate
Normanton Church,
which avoided
demolition in 1970 after
public outcry, appears
to float in the reservoir.
It’s also a concert venue
so check timetables
Go big in England’s smallest county with a gourmet for an evening of jazz
getaway and watersports, walks and antiques, too on the water.
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; JOSEPHINE PRICE

Where to stay?
Hambleton Hall. Little has changed since this former
private home became a hotel. You’ll find roaring fires, huge
armchairs and wood panelling but no stuff y atmosphere. DON’T MISS

Wander the gardens down to the lake and take a dip in the Antique hunting in the
nearby Lincolnshire town of
pool in the summer, or curl up in front of the fire during
Stamford. St Martins Antiques
winter. hambletonhall.com prideofbritainhotels.com
Centre is a full of treasures.
Later, swing by coaching inn
The George for a local ale.
st-martins-antiques.co.uk
georgehotelofstamford. Why go?
WHAT TO DO com Landlocked in the East
Get on the water. Rutland Water operates Midlands, Rutland is the UK’s
year round so whether you want a smallest historic county. This
bracing winter sail or easy summer tiny tranquil corner has Rutland
paddle, the lake is a magnet for all Water at its heart and villages
activities. Introductory sailing lessons dot its circumference — like
get you zipping across the lake Hambleton, which has a great
surprisingly quickly (ask for Graham). pub, quaint cottages and
anglianwater.co.uk/rutlandwater wonderful walks.

WHERE TO EAT
Hambleton Hall’s restaurant has
the longest-retained Michelin
star in the UK. Game is big on
the menu and there’s an expert
sommelier and a whole lot of
truffle (try the chocolate truffle
Jerusalem artichoke ice cream).
Don’t miss the eponymous
bakery. JOSEPHINE PRICE

April 2018 39
www.facebook.com/everymatic www.everymatic.com
 BOOKSHELF // SMART TRAVELLER

NOT JUST DESERTS

A new book charts British photographer
David Hurn’s 20-year love affair with the US
state of Arizona, from its desert to its residents

In the late 1970s, Welsh photographer David Hurn was

awarded a UK/USA Bicentennial Fellowship: a one-year
prize to take photographs in America. He could have gone
anywhere in that vast country but settled on Arizona. Thus
began a love affair that lasted more than two decades and saw
him included in Magnum Photos’ hallowed membership.
“At the time, Arizona was the most right-wing state in the
US and Wales was probably the most left-wing part of the UK,”
said Hurn. “Also, it’s the driest state while Wales is famously
wet. Arizona just seemed such an extraordinary contrast.” Arizona Trips by
Hurn had made his name producing on-the-ground images David Hurn. RRP:
from the Hungarian Revolution, after hitchhiking to Budapest $39.95 (£29.95) CARDIFF CALLING
(Reel Art Press)
in 1956. He later went on to capture intimate, unstaged A selection of works from Hurn’s private
shots of the Beatles, from the depths of the crowds and in collection will be on display at the National
rehearsal. In America, Hurn remained fixed on everyday life, Museum Cardiff, marking the opening of
from cheerleading to wild-horse wrangling, Dolly Parton the museum’s first gallery dedicated to
lookalike competitions to fraternity dances, all made exotic photography. Swaps: Photographs from the
by his outsider’s perspective. Cultural historian Christopher David Hurn Collection runs until 15 April.
Frayling described Hurn as a ‘visual essayist’. SARAH BARRELL museum.wales/cardiff

BEAUTIFUL BOTANICAL BOOKS

IMAGE: GETTY; DAVID HURN / MAGNUM PHOTOS

ORCHID SUMMER FLORILEGIUM: SHINRIN-YOKU: THE OVERSTORY

BY JON DUNN BOTANICAL THE ART AND BY RICHARD
A painterly TREASURES SCIENCE OF POWERS
book detailing FROM COOKS’ FOREST BATHING An epic tale of
a naturalist’s FIRST VOYAGE BY DR QING LI trees and the
summer-long See the botanical Learn all about human lives
search for the prints by Joseph forest bathing, interwoven
wildest flowers of the British Isles; Banks, who accompanied Cook on the Japanese practice of visiting around them; a novel in 20 stories
a hymn to the homegrown exotic. his 1768-1771 round-the-world trip. forests for health benefits. with roots that reach across
RRP: £20 (Bloomsbury) RRP: £65 (Thames & Hudson) RRP: £12.99 (Penguin Life) America. RRP: £18.99 (Penguin)

April 2018 41
�in
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April 2018 43
TRAVEL WRITING COMPETITION 2018

T�a�el W�iting Compe�ition 2018

DO YOU WANT TO WRITE FOR
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER?
If you think you’ve
got what it takes to
write for us, enter our
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44 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 HAVE A KNACK FOR WORDS?

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IMAGE: GETTY
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Join a small group of like-minded
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April 2018 45
BIG SLEEP AWARDS 2018

Home from home

UNITED KINGDOM
Whether it’s curled up in a cosy Cornish
bolthole or living it up in one of the
capital’s grande dames, we want to hear
about your favourite hotels on home
turf. Was there a country guesthouse
that pulled out all the stops? Or perhaps
there was a city sanctuary that dazzled
with its service. Last year it was Atlantic
Hotel, Jersey — who will it be this year?

Euro stars
EUROPE
A day’s sightseeing is done. Room
service is on its way and you’re kicking
back with your favourite tipple. Whether
it’s a city break, a beach getaway or an
AWARDS 2018 escape to the country, this place has
surpassed all expectations. Will it be
Belmond Reid’s Palace in Madeira again?
What has got your vote?

HAVE YOUR SAY Far-flung fancy

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three Readers’ Categories and you could win an iPad It’s the cherry on top of your perfect
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NOMINATE YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL AT NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK/BIGSLEEPAWARDS BEFORE 31 MARCH 2018

46 natgeotraveller.co.uk

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // SELINA SIAK CHIN YOKE
The limestone hills that surround the city of Ipoh aren’t on the tourist map but
their strange formations made them worth casting as a ‘character’ in a novel
I
t was the turtles I remembered. I must
have been about three — an age when all
animals terrified me. Even turtles. “How
can you be afraid of turtles?” my mother
asked, with incredulity. But I was; they had
strange-looking limbs and primeval shells,
and their heads bobbed up and down as they
moved around the green pond. We were in
the Sam Poh Temple, one of several Taoist-
Buddhist temples built into the limestone
caves around Ipoh, the northwestern
Malaysian city in which my first two novels
are set. Ipoh is also my hometown; it feeds
my dreams. When I left for school in England
in 1979, I took away a host of memories, little
knowing that I’d resurrect them one day.
When I returned with my mother 32 years
later, the pond was still there. As were the
turtles. And the water was still as murky as
I remembered it. I felt sorry for the turtles,
who barely moved in the heat. Malaysia had
become even hotter, no doubt about it; trees
had been cut down in the name of progress.
Modern conveniences abounded, but the
turtle pond is in a clearing and you can’t air-
condition open space.
Inside the caves, the air was cool and the
rock faces astoundingly beautiful. As a child,
I hadn’t appreciated the natural magnificence
of Ipoh’s limestone caves. I only remembered
the eerie darkness, the turtles, and monks
scurrying about in yellow robes. When I
returned to carry out research for my books, I
was struck by the jaw-dropping beauty of the
rock formations before me. Weeping needles
hung from ceilings. From below clefts rose,
one after another, sculpted and painted by
water and air, and perfected over time.
The men who built the cave temples must
also have been in awe, for they showed the
utmost respect for the rocks themselves.
The shrines, both inside and outside, blend
in with the hills. Though statues of Buddha
and various gods are scattered about — and
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
some of them are enormous — they stand
in symbiosis with their environment. Even
the staircases don’t look out of place, as if
their designers didn’t wish to intrude. An
atmosphere of tranquillity prevails. Taoist-
Buddhist practitioners bow in reverence,
shaking lit joss sticks before sticking them
into one of the many ash-filled urns provided.
MALAYSIA
Like any character, Ipoh
changes; it’s sometimes
playful, other times moody,
and all of this can be gauged
by the way the limestone hills
look. You see them as you
approach the city by road or
train, looming over the plain
like mythical creatures
SMART TRAVELLER
As we walked further in, I realised how
capacious the caves were. The air remained
clean and pure, as if it had been distilled by
the surrounding limestone hills. ‘Breath of
the gods’ is what the protagonist in my debut
novel calls it. I looked up at the hills and knew
then that I’d have to feature Ipoh, and its caves
and hills, as more than simply a setting. Ipoh
would have to become almost a character.
Like any character, Ipoh changes; it’s
sometimes playful, other times moody, and all
of this can be gauged by the way the limestone
hills look. You see them as you approach the
city by road or train, looming over the plain
like mythical creatures. On a bright day the
hills shimmer; on gloomier days they’re dark,
their tops veiled with floating mist. These
undulating hills, stretching for miles, are
what make Ipoh distinctive.
Alongside the limestone, rich deposits of
tin were discovered in the plain on which
Ipoh is situated. In the same way that the west
coast of America experienced a gold rush, the
west coast of Peninsula Malaysia enjoyed a tin
rush. Early in the 20th century, Ipoh turned
from a small fishing settlement into a thriving
city. Tin has long since declined, and Ipoh
isn’t thriving anymore. In fact most visitors to
Malaysia skip it, and even fellow Malaysians
wonder why I spend so much time in Ipoh.
There’s a complicated answer to this, and
a simple one, too. The simple answer is: I eat.
One of my favourite dishes — bean sprouts
— is an Ipoh speciality, which is connected
to the limestone hills. Bean sprouts are best
cooked by blanching quickly in boiling water,
and then seasoned by dousing in soya sauce,
sesame oil and pepper, and finally garnishing
with chopped spring onions. I’ve sampled
bean sprouts in many countries, but have
never seen any as juicy and fat as those from
my hometown. They have a crunchiness all
their own, and locals believe this is because
they’re fed water from the hills.
“Go on,” my mother said, urging me once
again towards the turtles. Above us, a pinkish
rock face glistened.
When the Future Comes Too Soon, by Selina Siak Chin
Yoke, is published by Amazon Crossing. RRP: £8.99
siakchinyoke.com
@siakchinyoke
April 2018 49
SMART TRAVELLER
VIEW FROM THE USA // AARON MILLAR
FREE SPIRIT
The ghost of the Voodoo Queen still looms large in New Orleans, where
the priestess used her dark arts as a force for social justice and freedom
arie Laveau was the Voodoo Queen
of New Orleans. It was the 19th
century, the city was rife with
slavery; fear and superstition drifted like
Mississippi River fog across every cobbled
street. A free woman of colour, Marie’s
mastery of the dark arts was legendary.
It’s said she could inflict disease upon her
enemies, see into the future, be in two places
at once and even escape death itself.
Marie’s ghost is everywhere. Walk the
streets of the Big Easy and you can feel her
presence: the house on St Ann Street, in the
French Quarter, where she’d hold séances;
her tomb, in the St Louis Cemetery, adorned
with offerings of beads, coins and roses, left
by her followers, who still bargain for favours
to this day. Voodoo is a part of New Orleans’
soul — flowers and skulls, the devil and
debauchery, on every corner. But it’s more
than dolls and tricks. I wanted the real thing.
Which is how I ended up down a dark alley,
knocking on the door of an authentic voodoo
temple, or hounfour. It didn’t start well.
Agreeing to attend a voodoo ceremony in a
bad part of town is a bit like asking Ted Bundy
for a wet shave. The hairs bristled on the
back of my neck, shadows loomed from every
corner. A lifetime watching horror movies, I
kept telling myself, and you fall for this.
But inside, it was beautiful. The
congregation — about a dozen people
— were dressed in white, barefoot, with
white bandanas wrapped around their
heads. Altars laden with offerings of wine,
sweets, rum and money were stacked
against every wall. We stood in a circle as
candles were carried to each of the cardinal
directions, creating a crossroads, a symbol
of the gateway between this world and that
of the loa, the ancestral spirits voodoo
practitioners believe watch over our lives.
Then the singing began — high melancholy
notes in Haitian French, sung by the
hounjenikon, the choir leader, then sung
back, psalm-like by the congregation. Soon
the room was swaying, the sacred ason
rattle shaking beside me like snakes, voices
chanting into the blood-red light of the
flames. My eyes closed. I heard my voice
repeating the phrases, my body rolling,
clapping, stepping with the beat of the drums.
50 natgeotraveller.co.uk
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
At this point in the service, it’s common
for dancers to induce trance-like states. I
was told stories of loa spirits who’d come
down and take possession of members of the
temple, transforming their voice, thoughts
and mannerisms. But with an outsider in
the hounfour that night, they chose not to.
Instead, the hounjenikon stood before the
central post of the temple — the focal point
of their worship — and, bent double, using
only pinches of cornmeal, painstakingly
drew out a veve, a sacred symbol representing
one of the loa, on the floor. We waited in
silence, minute after minute, as the image
gradually appeared, like a tapestry of dust.
I find myself utterly absorbed in the service
— perhaps because this religion expresses
itself through artistry and song, just like New
Orleans itself. But it’s far from frivolous. “Our
religion involves slavery; it involves blood,”
Robi Gilmore, a Haitian voodoo priest, tells
me the next day. The religion originated, he
explains, as a blend of indigenous African
beliefs — brought over on slave ships — and
the Catholicism the slaves confronted in the
Deep South. Instead of saints they revere
spirits; instead of prayers, possession; rum for
sacrament, cornmeal drawings for ornaments
of gold. It was about identity. Far from the
devil worshipping of Hollywood, true voodoo
was simply a way for those slaves to keep a
part of their religion alive. “It was a piece the
plantation owner could never take from us,”
Robi says. “It was survival.”
And as for Marie Laveau, there’s another
version of that history too. As the head of the
local Underground Railroad, a network of
secret routes and safe houses to aid escaped
slaves, she needed a way to go about her
business undetected. So she used those
rumours of her mastery of the dark arts to
make people afraid of her. “She played on
people’s fears of voodoo so she could be left
alone and send slaves to their freedom,” Robi
explains. In the end, the great Voodoo Queen
of New Orleans was really just a disguise
— and far from a devil, she was more of a saint.
British travel writer Aaron Millar ran away from London
in 2013 and has been hiding out in the Rocky
Mountains of Boulder, Colorado since.
@AaronMWriter
GRAN
CANARIA
SMART TRAVELLER
The
Blog
AURORA BOREALIS
A FLIGHT TO
THE LIGHTS
What if you could see the Northern Lights
without ever having to get off the plane?
“F
rom London Gatwick. To
London Gatwick.”
The gate attendant looks
confused as he reads, after our plane tickets
have defeated the automated scanner. He
calls over a colleague while a member of our
group tries to explain.
“No, no, we’re not actually going anywhere.
Essentially, the concept We’re just going to board a plane and, you
know, fly around for a while, then come back.”
strips out anything I sympathise. It’s a hard one to explain.
We’re at Gatwick Airport on a Sunday
extraneous that gets in evening, preparing to board a plane in order
to see the Northern Lights. The idea is to fly
the way of seeing the for a couple of hours until we reach vacant
phenomenon, enabling airspace above the North Sea, turn off the
lights, and see the Aurora Borealis from our
those without the means to cabin windows. Essentially, the concept
strips out anything extraneous that gets in
go dogsledding in Iceland the way of seeing the phenomenon, enabling
the chance to tick it off those without the means to go dogsledding
in Iceland the chance to tick it off their
their bucket lists bucket lists.
52 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Before heading to the airport, we have an
extensive briefi ng session, where experts
in celestial phenomena provide highly
polished rundowns of what we can expect.
There’s also a photography tutorial on the
best settings and techniques with which to
capture the aurora. It’s hammered home that
any flash photography or use of phones will
result in the loss of our ‘night vision’ that
takes 20 minutes to kick in. Cue obligatory
jokes about ‘no flashing in the dark’.
The speakers do a good job of tempering
expectations, with good-natured reminders
that any aurora hunt is a gamble, and that
the mercurial nature of the Northern Lights
would be offset with our unfi ltered proximity
to the nighttime fi rmament.
After clearing security and bemused
officials, we take our seats on the plane.
There’s excited chatter in the air. Once we
reach our destination, the plan is to loop
round in a circle so passengers on both sides
can see any astronomical phenomena. We’ll
 SMART TRAVELLER

�ost �ead
VISIT US ONLINE AT From the best weekends in the UK and Ireland to chats with
NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK Levison Wood — here are our most popular online posts
With daily updates, including
a blog every Tuesday and our
Travel Video of the Week each
Friday, get your fix of National
SAVE OUR SITES
Geographic Traveller online Europe’s most
neglected
heritage
landmarks
Throw away the
need to swap seats every now and then, guidebooks. It’s time
giving each person in the row has a chance at to meet Europe’s lost
the window. The whole evening is an exercise landmarks on the
in convivial circumambulation. brink of obscurity.
The experts provide a running Which would you
commentary about emerging constellations vote to save?
as we fly through the night sky. They sound
like race announcers, barking UK
out developments with barely 35 wild weekends
LIKE THIS? READ MORE a pause to breathe. “And there From hiking, driving and cycling adventures to
ABOUT THE NORTHERN we have Taurus the bull just festivals and off-road pursuits, we celebrate
LIGHTS REGION ONLINE starting to poke his head out 35 of the best ways to spend a weekend in the
on your bottom right and isn’t UK and Ireland
SVALBARD:
WINTER’S SPELL
he a handsome fellow just
A snowmobile ride look at him isn’t he glorious
through Norway’s far take a look at the magnificent
north reveals the power Pleiades cluster at the bottom
— both dangerous there it truly is magical isn’t
and benign — of it just amazing and oh my
Mother Nature
goodness now we can see Ursa
Major too what a fine fellow
SWEDEN:
THE WILD, WILD WEST
what a fine fellow indeed…”
Island hopping, wild Their enthusiasm is infectious
camping, seafood safaris and I surprise myself by caring
— Sweden’s wild west deeply when Orion pops up INTERVIEW
coast offers adventure by outside my window. It’s all Levison Wood
the bucketload quite lovely and soothing. FAMILY TRAVEL Levison Wood was just 22 when
Then, excitement spikes in Top five things to he hitchhiked 10,000 miles from
NORWAY:
the cabin. Aurora! There it is! do in Denmark England to India via Russia,
TRYSIL ALL THE WAY
Sort of. We were warned that Denmark’s design-cool Afghanistan and Pakistan. He
The pretty resort of
Trysil has winter sports the human eye doesn’t have as credentials make for an amazing recalls how this trip cemented his
varied enough to satisfy much range as cameras when cultural family holiday life as an overland traveller
even the most it comes to observing the full
mixed-ability, multi- spectrum of the lights, and that
generational group of our photos could actually be IRAN
snow lovers. Plus ski-in, more impressive than the view. Unexpected Iran
ski-out wood cabins
Out of the small windows aren’t Mysterious, magnificent
the great swaying bands of and so often
colour, familiar from saturated photographs, misunderstood,
but more of a distant glow on the horizon. modern Iran is bending
If you squint and look out of the corner of rules and breaking
your eye, it looks like a sunrise seen through traditions to welcome a
phosphorescent fog — a vague green-grey new generation of
nimbus on the edge of reality. Maybe it’s the curious travellers
cabin pressure, but seeing it creates a current
of otherworldly pleasure that’s augmented by
the realisation of what a rare privilege this is.
Technically, I now can tick the Northern
Lights off my bucket list. Not bad for a
Search for NatGeoTravelUK on...
Sunday evening. ZANE HENRY
FACEBOOK TWITTER GOOGLE+
omegabreaks.com TUMBLR PINTEREST INSTAGRAM

April 2018 53
 Weekender
TUNIS
You’ll find glimpses of elegant Paris in Tunisia’s capital, but
it’s the souks, minarets and ancient crumbling satellite cities
that speak to a time when this corner of Africa ruled
the Mediterranean. WORDS: Chris Leadbeater

O
ne of the problems with bad news is that, usually, it hangs about with greater obstinacy
than its positive counterpart. While the 2015 terror attacks in Tunisia were appalling
acts of violence, their stains have far out-lasted the travel warnings that followed.
Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) advice against trips to the country was rescinded last
August — yet eyebrows are still raised at the suggestion of travel here.
So, is it safe to visit? Here, Tunisia might raise its own eyebrows and ask whether you’d
direct the same question of Paris, Berlin, London or New York — all of which have fallen prey
to the same horrors. Tunisia has long been a reliable choice for cheap beach breaks, but this
has generally overlooked Tunisia’s other virtues as a destination — the historic sites, the
echoes of foreign cultures, the souks in the Medina, the exotic dexterity of its food.
At a time when Egypt is still (partly) in the FCO’s bad books, Tunisia merits reappraisal for
those interested in visiting a vibrant corner of North Africa. As it occupies the same time zone as
the UK and flights to Tunis take just over three hours, it’s a plausible option for a long weekend.

IMAGES: GETTY

54 natgeotraveller.co.uk
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: View from Café
des Délices over Sidi Bou Said; church
in front of the Amphitheatre of El Djem;
traditional blue door, Sidi Bou Said;
Virgil Mosaic, Bardo National Museum

Pure theatre
The third century (AD) Roman amphitheatre
at El Djem is arguably more striking than
its cousin in the Italian capital. Granted, it’s
smaller than the Colosseum (in its heyday,
it held 35,000 spectators), but you can still
climb up through tiers of seating, and do so
with only a fraction of the crowd that you’d
expect of the Eternal City. Accessible by day
trip from Tunis; Viator offers tours from £93.
uk.viator.com

THREE TO TRY
MOSAIC MASTERY

The Bardo has a

vast collection of
ROYAL VICTORIA
antiquities, but points Situated on Place de la Victoire,
visitors to ‘The 101 this four-star retreat was
formerly the British Embassy
Masterpieces’, its in Tunis. It retains a discernible
grandeur in 40 rooms and suites
essential exhibits of sophisticated Moorish decor.
(which include the Doubles rooms from £70 a night.
Where to stay
REGENCY HOTEL
The beach is some 10 miles
north of central Tunis, where the
suburbs of Gammarth and La
Marsa meet the Mediterranean.
Four-star retreat the Regency
Hotel, in the former, offers
double rooms from £92 a night.
DELFINO BEACH RESORT
Thomas Cook returned to the
resort towns of Monastir and
Hammamet in February. A
seven-night, all-inclusive stay in
the latter in May, at the Delfino
Beach Resort, flying from
Gatwick, starts at £421 a head.

fabled Virgil Mosaic).

hotel-royalvictoria.com regencytunis.com thomascook.com

bardomuseum.tn

Said and done Ancestral elegance

Located 12 miles north east of Tunis, Sidi In the second century BC, Tunis’
Bou Said is Tunisia at its most eye- predecessor, Carthage, was one of the most
catching. Pitched on a hill above the significant cities on the Mediterranean
sea, it clings to a colour scheme of — powerful enough to attract hostility from
whitewashed walls, with blue doors the empire over the water. Its destruction by
and window frames. It offers exquisite Rome in 146BC was almost total, and the key
views of the Atlas Mountains in the archaeological sites that survived were built
distance from the terrace of Café des by the conquerors, but the Bardo National
Délices and boutique lodging in the Museum keeps Carthaginian embers
Hotel Bou Fares (doubles from £60). glowing with grand mosaics and statues.
hotelboufares.com

April 2018 55
WEEKENDER
EYEWITNESS
COLONIAL SPIRIT
Midway along the Avenue Habib Bourguiba,
France and Tunisia are performing a waltz.
It’s a faltering affair of half-forgotten steps
but each partner is keen to maintain its
poise. The former is leading, projecting its
Christian architectural values onto Tunis’
prime thoroughfare via the Cathedral of St
Vincent de Paul — a Catholic masterpiece,
finished in 1897, which recalls the 75 years
(1881-1956) when Paris ruled the country.
But the latter won’t be marched about
the floor. It adds a flourish to the routine
directly opposite in the granite statue of Ibn
Khaldun, a feted Arab historian who was
born in Tunis in 1332.
The message of the dance ebbs into the
maw of the street, where mopeds buzz and
cars idle, as taxis radiate that butter-yellow
of many big cities.
I’m not shocked to find this culture clash.
The Tunisian capital has witnessed several
new brooms — the Berber tribesmen who
founded it in the second millennium BC; the
Romans who destroyed then rebuilt it; the
Arab settlers who swept into North Africa
56 natgeotraveller.co.uk
in the eighth century AD; the Ottomans
who came after; the colonial French. Not all
these influences are visible at every corner,
but they’re here in some way — and their
tug on the city’s fabric is ceaseless and
thrilling. Avenue Habib Bourguiba could
be the Champs-Élysées — long columns of
trees providing cover from the sun, jewellery
shops pulled back in long arcades — but for
Tunisia’s reminder, horns honking in a clot
of traffic, that the street bears the name of its
former president.
It’s a tapestry that begs closer inspection.
And so I stroll south, into the maze of
lanes that frame the Marché Central — Rue
d’Allemagne and Rue d’Espagne staying
true to their European heritage, just as the
stallholders proffering bushels and dates
at the side of the market are loyal to the
Arabic world. But it’s only when I step west
Apart from flights with package tour operators (see previous page), the only direct connections to Tunisia
from the UK are currently operated by Tunisair, which serves Heathrow and Gatwick from Tunis. Return tickets
from £194. tunisair.com discovertunisia.com
onto Rue El-Mokhtar that I fully enter the
latter, the Medina marking its territory in
the thrum and chatter of merchants and
hawkers, a sudden cacophony — and sage
and mint in powdered piles in the Herb
Souk on Rue El-Metihra. I push further,
through Souk El-Blagdjia, a fairytale of
wedding dresses and flowers. And I stumble
onto Rue Jamaa ez Zitouna — where the
Al-Zaytuna Mosque harks back to the eighth
century, its 141ft minaret rearing over the
clutter at its feet. Here, finally, Paris is
banished. The waltz is over, and Tunisia
stands alone on the dance floor, a winner’s
sash around its shoulders, France a ghost in
the wind.
BELOW: The Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul, Place de
l’Indépendance in Ville Nouvelle
IMAGE: ALAMY
 Awarded
Luxury Rooftop View Hotel
at the World Luxury Hotel Awards
2017

La Suite Lounge Restaurant

The St. George Lycabettus is a unique lifestyle hotel at the foot of the Lycabettus Hill. It is one
of the most beautiful and historic hotels in Athens. Apart from it’s five-star standards of hospitality,
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St. George Lycabettus Lifestyle Hotel | Kleomenous 2 | Kοlonaki | www.sgl.gr | info@sgl.gr | 210 7416000
 Eat
LISBON
As the heart of a nation known to be a culinary magpie,
Lisbon is riding high on a gastronomic revolution which has
celebrated its traditional and contemporary cuisines to great
effect. Words: Audrey Gillan
M
y friend is drawing a freeform
map of the world at the behest of
our guide, Célia Pedroso. I’m not
only impressed by the ability to take a paper
tablecloth and just lay out the world by pen in
a matter of moments, but when Célia begins
to place pieces of cinnamon stick, cloves, star
anise and chillies onto the various countries
before us, the reach of Portugal during its
period of Discoveries — which began in 1415
— is kind of astonishing.
As a small, sea-facing country, there was
nowhere else for the expansionist royal court
to go but out across the Atlantic and into the
world. During this time of adventure (and
colonialism, and with it incredible cruelty),
the country became the biggest conqueror,
the richest in Europe and also the one that
would change the culinary plate forever.
The spice trade had already imported new
flavours to Europe, but the Portuguese
brought these treasures to the masses,
making spices cheaper and more accessible,
changing our cooking forever.
We’ve joined Célia, from Culinary
Backstreets on the Lisbon Awakens: A
Culinary Crossroads Reborn tour. Pointing
to our map, she tells us that Lisbon became
a global village, and indeed through all this
trade it was at one point the richest city in
Europe. We take in Vasco da Gama’s arrival
in India in 1498 and then quickly scoot
58 natgeotraveller.co.uk
through the taking of Brazil, where hot
piri piri chillies were discovered and then
transported to India and Malaysia. We learn
that in some countries the word for orange
is ‘Portugal’.
There’s a book in all of this for sure, but
for today we’re here to taste some of this
cross-pollination in the less touristy areas
of Estrela and Campo de Ourique. We try
broa, a cake made from walnuts and sweet
potato, warmed with New World spices. We
move on to Célia’s favourite piri piri chicken
place, where the meat is succulent, bathed in
a secret marinade of 15 different ingredients,
using a recipe that came with Senhor Carlos
when he returned to the capital after his
family and other Portuguese settlers fled the
war in Angola (another colony) in 1975.
We stop to chat to stallholders in the lovely
Campo de Ourique market, tasting seasonal
fruit and vegetables before heading to
Padaria do Povo, a historic bakery and secret
resistance hang-out during the years of the
Salazar dictatorship which is now a lovely
social club — here we try fabulous chamuças
(samosas) and vindaloo, both Goanese CLOCKWISE: Casa
Portuguesa do Pastel
interpretations of Portuguese favourites.
de Bacalhau, Lisbon;
The cooking of Lisbon is a distillation
lunch at Mercado; Chef
of dishes from all the Portuguese regions. Miguel Castro e Silva;
Chef Miguel Castro e Silva is from Porto the Ascensor da Gloria
in the north but has seven restaurants in in Bairro Alto, a central
Lisbon, all of them embracing the best of his district of Lisbon
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
April 2018 59
 Treasuring asian hisTory
in Lisbon
for The LasT 10 years
MUSEU do oRIENTE
www.museudooriente.pt TUE – SUN | 10 am – 6 pm | FRI Free from 6 til 10 pm
main sponsor

Museu do orienTe | Avenida Brasília, doca de Alcântara (Norte) | 1350-352 Lisboa | +351 213585200
 EAT

Five Lisbon food finds
EGGY CAKES AND PASTRIES
Custardy, crunchy pastéis de nata
are now famous the world over
but you’ll not find better than in
Lisbon. Our favourites are from
Manteigaria in the Chiado area.
SALGADOS
Meaning fried salty things,
Lisboetas love salt cod fritters,
meat croquettes, shrimp turnovers
and a host of other crispy delights.
GINJINHA
A liqueur made by infusing sour
cherries with alcohol, most
commonly aguardente. Served in
a shot glass, it comes ‘com ou sem
elas’ — with or without cherries.
Look out for tiny shops, such as
Ginjinha Sem Rival and A Ginjinha,
where locals get their pick-me-up.
country’s products and lovingly enfolding
regional dishes into their menus. We meet
for lunch in Mercado, his ‘simple Portuguese’
restaurant on the ground floor of the new
Lumiares hotel in Bairro Alto, the city’s
rhythmic, and sometimes crazy, heart.
He tells me that everything he makes is
about product primarily but also, for him,
it has to tell a story. The Portuguese exalt
bacalhau, cod, particularly in its salted form
— this is for a number of reasons, involving
Catholic fasting, but also because when
this meaty fish is dried it lasts forever and
is easily transportable; so it could be taken
deep into the countryside and also into
the holds of the caravels, the ships that left
Lisbon to explore the oceans. Here the chef
takes cod neck, ‘it’s like the rib eye from the
cod’, and fries it in tempura batter, which the
Portuguese introduced to Japan.
He exalts açorda, another national dish
that began from deep poverty when stale
bread was reconstituted to make a form
of porridge, using a rich seafood stock,
and adding the ubiquitous (in Portugal)
coriander, fat prawns caught locally and a
raw egg yolk. He takes a spoon and mixes it
all in utter delight.
Upstairs on the rooftops, with a view over
Lisbon, is his fine-dining restaurant Lumni
where Castro e Silva explains: “My kitchen’s
mostly Portuguese with a twist. It’s very much
terroir food, which can be quite heavy, so here
we bring it into the modern [day] — we respect
the origins of the produce but make it light
and elegant, concentrating on flavour.”
It’s a popular choice, but it’s hard to go
to Lisbon without making a pilgrimage to
the seafood palace that is Ramiro. It’s so
popular now, there’s always a queue so we
take a ticket — like the deli counter in a
supermarket — buy some tokens from the
bar and fill a plastic glass of Sagres from
an automated beer tap. Timing here is key.
Mid afternoon you will hardly wait, at 8pm
we sat for about half an hour (but this was
the off season). The seafood is always worth
it, simply, brilliantly cooked and fresh.
I love gamba do Algarve (prawns) boiled
and scattered with fleur de sel, the santola
(dressed crab), that comes with a plastic
board and mallet with which to bash the
hell out of the claws, and ameijoas Bulhao
Pato, named after a poet but basically just
delectable clams steamed with butter, garlic
and coriander. First timers must try percebes,
goose-necked barnacles which look like
aliens’ fingers but contain the essence of
the sea inside, and carabineiro, a succulent
large red prawn (squeeze the juices out of
the heads over the prawn meat, smother
with butter and lemon, swirl this all around
and then glory in it). Dessert is a prego, rare,
thin steak served in a crusty roll with sweet
mustard. Yes, Ramiro is more expensive than
almost any other cervejeria (beer hall selling

SARDINES
In summer, the smell of sardines is
everywhere in Lisbon, particularly
around 12 June, the festa de Santo
António, a citywide carnival of
dancing, singing and food. Ad hoc
grills are set up on pavements and
sardines are served with charred
peppers and rustic bread.

SAUSAGES
The Portuguese love sausages
and have invented some with a
bready filling mixed with pork fat
called farinheira; chouriço is a softer
sweeter rival to the Spanish chorizo
and morcela is blood sausage,
basically a soft black pudding.
IMAGES: ALAMY

FROM TOP: Bottle of Ginjinha; tártaro de

coração de boi, Lumni

April 2018 61
EAT
seafood) in Lisbon, but none of them match
this atmosphere. And when you still see
tables full of old Portuguese fellas feasting
on massive platters of crustaceans you know
it’s yet to become a true tourist trap.
Over the past six or seven years Lisbon
has undergone an astonishing culinary
revolution. But even on this, my most recent
of many visits, I’m enthralled. It’s constantly
changing, overwhelming for locals, yes,
but much of it for the good. The traditional
tascas are still brilliant if you choose them
well, serving the best of the country’s earthy
fare. But with this new enervated focus
on Portuguese produce you’ll find great
new restaurants like Prado, where Antonio
Galapito, a young buck who spent many
years working for Nuno Mendes, a famous
Portuguese chef in London, is rocking
his kitchen. Back here in his hometown
he’s doing what the Portuguese have done
brilliantly since the 1400s: leaving and
returning with great ideas.
If truth be told, this country has been a
little haphazard with vegetables, boiling
62 natgeotraveller.co.uk
them too long or making soups out of them.
But at Prado fresh, seasonal vegetables
are treated like kings. There’s cabbage
with goat’s whey and walnuts, black
scabbard fish topped with sweet-tasting
radish. The showstopper is cockles, chard,
coriander and fried bread in an exquisite
jus made from the sweet cockles. And a
mushroom (yup) ice cream topped with
caramel made from butter and pork fat,
scattered with barley.
My Portuguese friends and I agree, this
is some of the best food we’ve ever eaten in
the city at incredibly good prices. I’ll always
return to Lisbon, I love the city to my very
bones, but as long as it’s here, I want a table
at Prado.
Rooms at The Lumiares Hotel cost from £135 per
night for a studio and £178 per night for a one-
bedroom apartment. TAP Air Portugal flies direct from
London City Airport, Heathrow, Gatwick and
Manchester to Lisbon from £42 one way.
thelumiares.com flytap.com
FROM TOP: Pesca restaurant and chef;
carabineiro, Pesca
A TASTE OF
Lisbon
LUMNI
Sitting atop Lumiares hotel, this
restaurant is under the aegis of
Portuguese culinary giant Miguel
Castro e Silva, who brings his
love affair with the country’s
produce to the plate with finesse.
A winemaker as well as a chef, he
turns the basic, sturdy elements
of the country’s larder into beauty
on a plate. Bread and rice are
essential staples in this cuisine
due to years of deep poverty, but
here Castro e Silva exalts them.
His milhos, ground corn a little like
polenta, is crispy on the outside
and full of flavour. A slow-braised
lamb with chickpeas and sweet
potato mash is delectable. Dinner
from £35 per person without wine.
And eight-course tasting menu is
£50. thelumiares.com
RESTAURANTE PESCA
The focus here is on fresh fish and
seasonal produce. Chef Diogo
Noronha says: “With total respect
for the ingredients, and in praise of
the diversity of flavours from sea
and mountain, the concept behind
Restaurante Pesca aims to align
with the essential commitment
to sustainability.” There’s an
exquisite squid tartar, prawns
from the Algarve coast and the
fabulous giant prawn, carabineiro,
adored in the city. Main course
fishes include seabream, meagre,
turbot, black scabbard fish and red
mullet. The wine list focuses on the
biodynamic and natural. Dinner
from £43 per person without wine.
restaurantepesca.pt
CULINARY BACKSTREETS
Take a food tour of Lisbon with a
knowledgeable gourmet-loving
local guide. Try pastries, hams,
sardines, seafood and ginjinha
on the half-day Lisbon Eats: The
Culinary Backstreets Essentials
tour. Or opt for an exploration
off the beaten track with full-
day tours. All food and wine
included. Tours begin at £69.
culinarybackstreets.com/culinary-
walks/lisbon
museudamarioneta.pt

MUSEU DA MARIONETA
PUPPET MUSEUM

WHAT ABOUT The very best collection

EMOTIONS? of masks and puppets is in Lisbon

CONVENTO DAS BERNARDAS, RUA DA ESPERANÇA, 146 - LISBOA

Bus Train Parking at 400 mts

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 Neighbourhood
ISTANBUL
A boutique hotel in a neoclassical bank, Ottoman houses that double as
cool canteens, and flea markets full of curios — this city on the banks of the
Bosphorus marries East and West to startling effect. Words: James Draven

Spanning Europe and Asia, Istanbul has always been a major hub, for travellers and
traders alike, from its incarnations as the ancient shipping port of Byzantium, the
Silk Road stop of Constantinople, and the terminus of the iconic Orient Express.
ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

Although officially secular since 1928, silhouettes of minarets are still around, and
most visitors don’t venture beyond the sights of Sultanahmet. Beyond the
neighbourhood, Istanbul is one of Europe’s most populous cities, home to nearly 15
million residents, and while much of its suburban sprawl consists of identikit
modern Asian architecture, there are districts replete with Parisian parlours,
artistic enclaves, and offbeat treats to be found just a stone’s throw from the centre.

April 2018 65
NEIGHBOURHOOD

Çukurcuma
The epicentre of Istanbul’s antiques scene,
Çukurcuma is the place to go for weird
window shopping. Here, you’ll find elderly
rag-and-bone men heaving impossibly
overloaded carts uphill along meandering
cobblestone lanes lined by dilapidated 19th-
century mansions. Sure, there are a handful
of stylised, rococo, high-end antique shops,
but it’s between the gloriously gold-leafed
offerings of these more sedate stores that
the real gems are found: collections of
such pedantic purity as to transcend their
commercial motives. Here, a blizzard of snow
globes jostles with a deluge of dentures,
and rows of misplaced prescription glasses
and bric-a-brac bifocals hang from rafters,
watched with quiet reverence by solemn
shopkeepers who have long forgotten the
difference between sales and curation.
Particularly charming among them
is Osmanli Antik Palas, with its eclectic
trove of trinkets piled high beside rows
of medicine bottles, anatomical models,
and a ginger tomcat — a tolerated squatter
— propping up a hotchpotch of odds
and ends.
The Works is the lifelong obsession of a
compulsive hoarder, A. Karaca Borar, the
shop’s owner. He tuts when you, inevitably,
knock something over. Borar revels in his
assumed role as mastermind behind this
museum of miscellanea, where antique toilet
bowls clog the bathroom and prosthetic
limbs grapple with erotic art. He’s the proud
supplier of useless ephemera to The Museum
of Innocence, a self-referential, real-world
counterpart to the Orhan Pamuk novel of the
same name.
A few doors along from The Works, the
neighbourhood’s nocturnal playboy, Erkal
Aksoy, hosts serious shoppers at his opulent
showroom, A La Turca. There’s more than a
whiff of mysticism across these four storeys:
head down to the basement and there’s a
faint bouquet of decay emanating from the
Iron Age Tokat urns, while the rest of the
place is redolent of a lavish Ottoman-era
townhouse, populated with plunder from
around the globe. It’s not unusual to find
the sunlight-shunning Aksoy entertaining
regulars here at 3am, each sipping a thick,
claret-coloured liquid from antique goblets:
his famous home-made cherry vodka. Like
the labyrinthine pseudo-Parisian streets
that surround it, the scene is as decadent and
sumptuously crumbling as the backdrop to
an indie vampire flick.
IMAGES: GETTY; JAMES DRAVEN

Here, a blizzard of snow globes jostles with

a deluge of dentures, and rows of misplaced LEFT, FROM TOP: One of Istanbul’s heritage red trams;
prescription glasses and bric-a-brac bifocals interior of Hikmet Mizanoğlu Arts & Antiques

hang from rafters, watched with quiet RIGHT, FROM TOP: Installation, Istanbul Modern;
Locally crafted glassware, designed by an autistic
reverence by solemn shopkeepers child, Karakoy

66 natgeotraveller.co.uk

Karaköy
Once the financial centre of the Ottoman
Empire, and — overlooking the mighty
Bosphorus — a port since time immemorial,
Karaköy hit hard times in the 20th century,
and the neighbourhood’s grand edifices
fell into dereliction. Then, in 2004, the
city’s most innovative art gallery, Istanbul
Modern, opened its doors and the march of
gentrification began. As recently as five years
ago, these were still seedy dockyard back
streets, but now the area’s myriad commercial
lighting wholesalers dazzle alongside
luminaries of Istanbul’s art and design scene.
The abandoned shells of buildings are
festooned with strings of coloured bulbs,
steampunk-style Edison lamps adorn
interiors bereft of plasterwork, and neon
tubes backlight bicycles-as-ersatz wall art.
Vault Karaköy reimagines a neoclassical
former bank as a luxury hotel, complete with
its own opulent hammam, while abandoned
warehouses have become hip boutique
stores selling offbeat originals by Turkish
creatives. A seemingly endless influx of
tortoiseshell-bespectacled entrepreneurs are
flocking to fill these industrial spaces with a
diverse selection of homemade housewares,
handmade jewellery, artisan chocolates, and
myriad locally crafted goods, plus social
project products that range from threadbare
carpet bags to drinking receptacles designed
by autistic children.
Shops throughout the neighbourhood are
littered with food bowls for the area’s feral cat
population; surely some of the best-fed strays
on the planet. The store owners wouldn’t
dream of shooing them away, insisting:
“Karaköy is more beautiful with them.”
With liquor licences taking a while to
acquire, it gets a little quieter around here
after dark, but Ferahfeza, a restaurant and
bar hidden away on the roof of the Chamber
of Architects, is a chic spot for dinner and
drinks with its inventive interior — all subway
tiles and chemistry-lab glassware — and a
show-stopping exterior.
Meanwhile, the neighbourhood’s hip kids
eschew booze and stay up late, fuelled by the
quadruple espresso and Sachertorte served
in Karaköy’s best-loved cafe, Karabatak.
However, despite the global third-wave cafe
phenomenon, the Turks are traditionally
big tea drinkers and nearby Dem offers a
kaleidoscope of unusual infusions from
around the world until late in the evening.
NEIGHBOURHOOD
When in Istanbul…
SWEET SENSATION
Skip Turkey’s signature desserts
of baklava and candied pumpkin
and blend in with the locals by
ordering trileçe. A very light sponge
cake soaked in evaporated milk,
condensed milk and cream, the
pudding’s origins aren’t Turkish;
tres leches cake has been popular
in Latin America for years.
However, it’s this sweet-toothed
city’s latest food trend.
HAUTE DONER
In a city where the doner kebab
is a culinary keystone rather than
a drunken mistake, Peymane in
Tophane elevates it to fine-dining
status. Head to Ortaköy’s street
markets to sample a kumpir, an
overstuffed jacket potato loaded
with local hype.
CONFLICT RESOLUTION
Since 2011, the Çapa district
has become home to many of
the 600,000 Syrian refugees
in Istanbul. Urban Adventures
organises small-group trips to
the neighbourhood’s Olive Tree
community centre, set up by Small
Projects Istanbul, to eat lunch
cooked by Syrian immigrants and
hear their fascinating stories.
LITERARY SLANT
The grand and imposing Pera
Palace Hotel is where Agatha
Christie is said to have written
Murder on the Orient Express after
arriving in Istanbul on the titular
train. Tuck into the generous
buffet afternoon tea in this
museum/hotel, listening to the live
pianist, and cancel plans for the
rest of the day.
MARKET SHARE
How do the antique shops of
Çukurcuma and Kadıköy’s
Tellalzade Street find their eclectic
stock? To find out, head to Feriköy
Flea Market (aka Bomonti Flea/
Antiques Market) on a Sunday
where over 200 stallholders
display their incredible creations
and collections. This is also a great
place to try gözleme, a pastry filled
and folded like a quesadilla.
April 2018 67
NEIGHBOURHOOD
Fener-Balat
While on-the-rise Karaköy is already in
danger of going the same way as London’s
Shoreditch — a hipster enclave gentrified
beyond the reach of locals — the adjoining
residential neighbourhoods of Fener and
Balat have together quietly become one of the
city’s truly coolest quarters. Despite emerging
as a design district dotted with galleries and
craft workshops, big business and sleek hotels
are yet to infiltrate the neighbourhood. This is
somewhat surprising, since it’s located on the
Historic Peninsula, just a few miles along the
Golden Horn from the sights of Sultanahmet.
The stomping ground of arts and media
students from nearby Plato College, the
area still retains a traditional feel. The hip
cafes and quirky stores peddle vegan bites
and vintage delights alongside other local
businesses, which seem to sell just about
everything, from hubcaps to bubble wrap.
Forget Viennese cakes and pulled pork
po’ boys, this area is a little more lo-fi
and a bit more boho than self-conscious
Karaköy. With its slightly seaside-y vibe, and
multicoloured Ottoman houses stacked up
along steep, winding streets, expect instead
to find canteens serving homemade cakes
and mezes, chipped teapots stewing herbal
brews, mosques functioning as actual places
of worship rather than tourist hotspots, and
trendy venues, such as craftstall-cum-music-
68 natgeotraveller.co.uk
hall Atolye Kafasi, that intentionally remain
wi-fi black-spots.
Balat’s been a Jewish neighbourhood since
the Byzantine era, and Fener’s home to the
Greek Orthodox cathedral, so it’s no wonder
there’s an undercurrent of multiculturalism.
Although you won’t see any umbrella-waving
tourist groups or backpackers falling out of
bars, if you listen carefully in cafes, you’ll hear
a smattering of international accents from
expats and those in the know.
Gastro-globalisation is yet to infiltrate
Istanbul though, with most restaurants, like
Balat’s award-winning Agora Meyhanesi
1890, focusing on nailing Middle Eastern and
domestic cuisine. Forno Balat mixes things
up a little by serving stone-baked pizza
alongside its very similar and just as tasty
Turkish cousin, lahmacun. ABOVE: Ortaköy Mosque with
Not the place for nightlife, this is the Bosphorus Bridge in the background
perfect neighbourhood to while away an BELOW: Istanbul market
afternoon. Café Naftalin K. has such an
adorable DIY ethos — all hand-scrawled
menus and homemade mezes served on odd
crockery — that the general state of disrepair
only adds to the ambience. Walls are papered
with vintage magazines and adorned with
flea-market finds. If this is all a bit ramshackle
for your taste, simply pop next door, to
Cafe Maide, where you’ll get consistent
cappuccinos without the clutter, arguably
defeating the point of visiting.
MORE INFO
Museum of Innocence.
masumiyetmuzesi.org
A La Turca. alaturcahouse.com
Istanbul Modern. istanbulmodern.org/en
The Vault Karaköy. househotels.com/
en/hotels/vault-karakoy
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı.
kilicalipasahamami.com
Ferahfeza. ferahfeza-ist.com
Karabatak. karabatakkarakoy.com
Dem. dem-istanbul.com
Atolye Kafasi. atolyekafasi.com
Agora Meyhanes 1890.
agorameyhanesi.com
Forno Balat. fornobalat.com
Café Maide. maidecafe.business.site
Peymane. peymane.com
Urban Adventures’ Çapa (dine with
Syrian refugees)
tour.urbanadventures.com/istanbul-
tour-in-focus-the-olive-tree-of-istanbul
Small Projects Istanbul.
smallprojectsistanbul.org
Pera Palace Hotel. perapalace.com
LOCALLY ISTANBUL organises tours
for the more curious tourist.
locallyistanbul.com
IMAGES: GETTY
PEGASUS AIRLINES flies from Stansted
twice daily to Istanbul Sabiha Gökçen
airport. Return flights from £92.99,
including taxes. flypgs.com/en
 Where
you belong
in Boston

HOTEL

61 EXETER STREET AT BOYLSTON | BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 02116 | USA

001 888 445 4590 | LENOXHOTEL.COM/NATGEOUK
CITY TABLE | CITY BAR | SÓLÁS IRISH PUB
 Sleep
MIAMI
Art deco indulgence is guaranteed in Florida’s hub for retro-cool beach
hotels, but don’t dismiss Downtown’s crop of shiny new skyscraper retreats
Words: Sam Lewis

No matter what the weather, a sunny sense of heady optimism always seems to
pervade this sprawling oceanfront city, famed for its party vibe and pastel-hued
art deco architecture. Locals exude a determinedly laid-back levity as dynamic
regeneration continues apace — and not just around South Beach. Downtown,
in Brickell, new hotels, celebrity-chef restaurants and bars are booming, while a
gleaming new mall blossoms with big brands opening stores to rival the affluent
Bal Harbour neighbourhood. Edgy dive bars and affordable walking tours are on
trend in Wynwood and Little Havana, but elsewhere, as with any great city,
there’s a price to pay. Expect cocktails in double figures, buffet breakfasts to
inch into the $50 (£36) mark, and mandatory resort fees at beachfront properties
to add $40 (£29) to your daily bill — and that’s before you get anywhere near a
sunbed or umbrella. Yes, you’ll probably burn a hole in your pocket and wake up
with a hangover, but stay in one of the city’s new lifestyle hotels and you can
recover with spirulina shots, bootcamp beach yoga or order in some rehydrating
vitamin IV therapy. Only in Miami...
IMAGE: 4CORNERS

F
70 natgeotraveller.co.uk
For natural highs
1 HOTEL
Expect a gut-busting workout at this eco
oasis that probably boasts the best gym you’ll
encounter in a hotel. Linked to the popular
worldwide Spartan obstacle endurance race
series, the free HIIT-style classes here are
so intense you’ll be in danger of losing your
expensive breakfast. Don’t eat first; instead
recover in the adjacent cafe with a plant-based
smoothie and spirulina shot, or head to the
luxurious Bamford Spa. Check out one of the
many ground-level pools, or the adults-only
rooftop pool. Everywhere you look, there are
clever eco ideas: a tap in your suite supplies
treated drinking water, room keys are made
from recycled wood, while the lobby has a
mural made from moss.
ROOMS: Doubles from $399 (£286), room only.
1hotels.com/south-beach

April 2018 71
 For beats & bowling
THE MIAMI BEACH EDITION
A basement bowling alley and ice rink
may sound a little last season, but this Ian
Schrager hotel cannily caters for both the
catwalk crowd and families (sensibly offering
separate pools for each). Acres of polished
marble floor and sleek white walls gleam,
and rooms are so unremarkably minimalist
they almost induce a state of sleep. Many
are beachfront but sadly lack a balcony.
Drown your sorrows at the cool Matador
Room bar or head to the beach where there’s
complimentary beachfront yoga, Pilates and
boxing. And when the sun sets, there’s no
need to venture far for evening entertainment
— there’s a nightclub in the basement.
ROOMS: Doubles from $429 (£308), room only.
editionhotels.com/miami-beach

72 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SLEEP

For fine dining

NOBU
Not a single dish disappoints at this world-
renowned Japanese restaurant. Signature
dishes — black cod with miso and rock shrimp
tempura — remain, but new additions (tai
butter lettuce and tenderloin yuzu truffle) take
things to another level. Outside, there’s a new
farm-to-table Californian restaurant and pool,
but be aware: most facilities are shared with
the adjacent 418-room Eden Roc Resort Hotel.
ROOMS: Doubles from $540 (£403), room only.
nobuhotelmiamibeach.com

For alternative views

FOUR SEASONS
Housed in Florida’s tallest building, this Four
Seasons lies in the shadow of its glamorous
sister, Surfside, north of South Beach near Bal
Harbour. Spacious rooms have vertiginous
views of Biscayne Bay, while on the ground,
you’re a stone’s throw from Miami’s most
happening galleries — it’s an easy walk to
IMAGE: NICOLAS KOENIG

the contemporary Pérez Art Museum Miami

(PAMM). Work up an appetite for the must-
eat Sunday brunch serving never-ending
cocktails and slow-cooked suckling pig.
ROOMS: Doubles from $359 (£257), room only.
No resort fee. fourseasons.com/miami

April 2018 73
 Three treasures in Miami

Tradewinds: Family & Fun
You’ve strayed off the beaten path and wandered
upon this extended stay hideaway. Grab towels and
chairs and head to the beach. Not up for the walk?
Then laze around in our tropical swimming pool
setting. Escape the sun under the shade of trees in
the garden. Take a seat, kick up your feet, and open
your laptop to upload those family fun day photos
using our complimentary WiFi. We’re pet friendly, so
bring your furry family member along for the trip.
tradewindsapartmenthotel.com
Catalina: Trendy & Fabulous
As the sun warms your skin, retreat to our relaxing
bamboo pool or reserve your rooftop pool cabana.
Glasses clink all around as friends toast to being in
the Magic City. Did we mention our complimentary
Happy Hour? Having three bars and two restaurants,
dining al fresco is sure to equal a fascinating night of
people watching. As the night comes to a close, sink
into our comfy Tempur-Pedic mattress and envelop
yourself in our down duvet for a peaceful nights rest.
catalinahotel.com
Croydon: Tranquil & Sophisticated
Nestled comfortably in the more serene locale of
Miami Beach is our classic mid-rise hotel. Unwind
in our elegantly furnished boutique rooms with
soothing earth tones and cooling gel memory
foam mattresses. Take a five-minute stroll to the
beach or splash around in our outdoor pool. Make
your way up to our rooftop sun deck to capture
breathtaking views of the turquoise horizon. When
you’re feeling famished, dine in our 24-hour
restaurant and bar for a delectable American cuisine.
hotelcroydonmiamibeach.com

www.southbeachgroup.com
 SLEEP

For �owntown food & fun

MANDARIN ORIENTAL
Yes, it’s a short drive from Miami’s famous
beaches, but this hotel, perched on a private
island overlooking Biscayne Bay, is a stone’s
throw from Miami’s version of Wall Street:
the happening ’hood that’s Brickell, complete
with a new shopping mall, plus countless
bars and celebrity-chef restaurants. Check
into one of its elegant and spacious rooms,
and make sure you book a table at its fun
Peruvian restaurant, La Mar by Gaston
Acurio, with a casual waterfront setting and
seafood focus: expect spicy dishes and potent
Peruvian cocktails. If you’re still standing,
move on for a sundowner at YAKU, the chic
outdoor bar where DJs spin tunes as locals
jog past on the city’s new running route, after
a late stint in the office.
ROOMS: $259 (£186), room only. No resort fee.
mandarinoriental.com/miami

For a serene stay

COMO METROPOLITAN
MIAMI BEACH
There’s an intimate, peaceful vibe to this art
deco boutique hotel in City Center, where staff
go the extra mile to make you feel welcome.
With only 74 rooms, the small pool is serene,
and the bar is rarely busy, the solicitous
mixologists on standby to explain every one
of the 30 artisanal gins. Sadly, most rooms
lack balconies, the gym has barely enough
space to swing a kettlebell, and the hydro
pool on the roof needs some TLC, but the
spa therapists are excellent and it’s just a few
steps from Miami Beach. Perfect for couples
who want a little peace and quiet, COMO
also offers superb two-centre deals with its
Caribbean sister property on nearby Turks
and Caicos.
ROOMS: From $356 (£256), room only.
comohotels.com

April 2018 75
SLEEP

For art deco elegance

THE NATIONAL HOTEL
This art deco hotel is all about vintage
glamour and understated elegance. It’s
crammed with original features from
polished chrome light fixtures to terrazzo
floors, walnut furniture and shimmering
glass chandeliers. Go for the basil-infused
Champagne mojitos at the Blues piano bar
(Thursdays-Sundays), with live music that
spans the genres from Frank Sinatra to Ed
Sheeran. One block from Lincoln Road, and
close to South Beach’s most popular bars and
restaurants, rooms here are snug but elegant.
Splash out on a premium cabana suite with a
balcony overlooking Miami’s longest pool.
ROOMS: From $239 (£172), room only.
nationalhotel.com

BUDGET

For affordable apartments For retro vibes For hip hostel rooms
AN ADDITIONAL RESORT FEE OF AROUND $20-
40 (£14-28) PER NIGHT, PLUS 13% LOCAL TAXES.
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED, HOTELS CHARGE

EL PASEO HOTEL VAGABOND FREEHAND MIAMI

This recent hotel addition is a Bohemian gem but lacks
a pool and restaurant. Step outside, though, and there
are plenty of places to eat, and it’s just two blocks
south of the shops on Lincoln Road. The 68 spacious
rooms are spread through several ‘villas’. Some suites
have cathedral ceilings and Juliet balconies while the
apartments have full kitchens. Two blocks away, the
beach offers loungers and towels in a section reserved
for guests from El Paseo.
ROOMS: From $139 (£100); two-bed apartment from
$259 (£186), room only. elpaseohotel.com
1950s motels traditionally offered affordable, drive-in
lodging and this retro throwback does just that. The
distinctive neon motel sign celebrates its status on the
National Register of Historic Places, and the pool has
the original mosaic mermaid on the bottom. Watch
the goings on from one of 46 rooms restored with
terrazzo floors and custom-made retro furniture. It’s a
commute if you want to go to the beach or Downtown,
but both parking and breakfast are free.
ROOMS: From $179 (£129), including breakfast. No
resort fee. thevagabondhotel.com
The Broken Shaker bar is the focal point of this hip
hostel where you can book a bunk bed in dorm-like
rooms for barely more than the average cost of two
cocktails. Housed in a 1930s art deco building not
far from the beach, its mixologists are rated among
some of the best in America. Overall, there’s a good
communal atmosphere but if you don’t fancy a bunk
bed, you can book private double rooms, too.
ROOMS: From $30 (£22) for a bed in an eight-person
dorm, to $150 (£108) for a double room, including
breakfast. thefreehand.com

76 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 H o t e l s t H at d e f i n e
t H e d e s t i n at i o n ™
With breathtaking views of the famed Acropolis and the Parthenon,
the historic Hotel Grande Bretagne and the fascinating boutique hotel
Grande Bretagne ΜΗ.Τ.Ε.: 0206K015A0021500
King George ΜΗ.Τ.Ε.: 0206K015A0000701

King George enjoy an ideal location right in the center of Athens.

explore the destination at

GrandeBretaGne.Gr & KinGGeorGeathens.CoM
 THE CYCL ADES

THE GREEK
RENAISSANCE
Dazzling seas, whitewashed villages, blushing
bougainvillaea... The Cyclades is every bit
the archetypal Greek paradise, but look more
IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE; GETTY

c los e l y, of f- s e as on , and a dif fe re n t s tor y

unfolds, full of surprising twists and turns

WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE

78 natgeotraveller.co.uk
April 2018 79
GREECE

"I
t’s easier to realise dreams in small
THE FOODIE ISLAND places,” says Ronia Anastasiadou.
We’ve spent the morning touring

SIFNOS
Sifnos is just 15 miles long, but its
rich traditions and contemporary
edge combine to create the Cyclades’
hottest food scene
Sifnos, dipping into sleepy streets
and blue-domed churches, and
are parting ways by her Fiesta in
Apollonia, the island’s main town. Ronia’s
mother was Sifnian, she tells me, while she
herself was born in Athens but moved to
her great-grandparents’ house on this small
island in the Western Cyclades 23 years ago.
“When I came from Athens, I had pills
for headaches and an inhaler,” she tells me.
“But after six months I stopped all medicine.
It was a hard year, but after that year it was
finished… No more chemistry.” She waves
around, seeming to catch the island air, the
landscape, the community, in her gesture.
“You’ re surrounded by water. It’s not up to
you whether you leave the island. If there’s a
boat, you can leave. If not, you can’t. For me,
that was a reason to come.”
And then there’s the food. In Artemonas,
Ronia takes me to sample sweet amigdalota,
a soft almond cookie rolled in sugar, at
Theodorou, a family-run sweet shop still
using copper pots and wood fires to make its
treats. Here, Vasilodimos Theodorou gives me
tasters of velvety loukoumi (Turkish delight)
and halvadopita (nougat wafers dotted with
almonds and laced with island honey — you’d
be tempted to stay on the island for this
alone). “Historically we’ve been culturally
close to Istanbul, where lots of pastry shops
had Sifnian owners and staff,” he tells me.
Is that where his recipes come from?
“No, no, no!” Vasilodimos says, “I stay with
my grandfather’s recipes.”
Mention food on Sifnos, and you’ll soon
hear about Nikolaos Tselementes, who wrote
a seminal Greek cookbook in 1926 and went
on to become the country’s first celebrity chef.
The book remains a staple on Greek shelves,
but the Sifnian culinary tradition is richer
than one man. Think of the fishermen, for
centuries taking their catch along donkey
paths to its villages. Or the terraces lined with
beehives, olive and almond trees. Or the clay
pots for slow-cooking stews. You still see old
men foraging in cracks and walls for tough,
wild capers.
At Tsikali tavern, on Vathi Beach, I go
for a swim before tucking into a lunch of
falafel cut with marjoram, flat-leaf parsley
and onion; a snap-fresh salad with tomatoes
and creamy manoura cheese, and a goat
stew made with meat from the tavern’s own
IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE; GETTY

farm. At Simos, in the modest port town of

Kamares, waiters in jeans and hoodies ferry
trays across the street while local kids whizz

PREVIOUS PAGES: Door, Limas, Milos; house in Oia,

Santorini, painted in traditional white and blue
FROM LEFT: Priest in Kamares; freshly baked pastries;
George Bairamis, a potter; Simos; Church of the
Seven Martyrs

80 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 GREECE

by on bikes. I ask whether the calamari
needs a side. “You can have rice, potato,
anything you want,” the waiter says, slightly
dismayed by the question. “For me, I have
just calamari on the plate.”
I defer, and am soon cutting into a whole
squid in a wafer-thin batter with a charcoaly
bang to it. No rings. No frills. Just a wedge
of lemon. When I walk inside to pay, I find
myself in a room where yellowing family
photos sit alongside portraits of saints and a
blaring old TV. The waiter reaches around to
the back of the till, hitting a clasp to open a
drawer held together with sellotape.
Sifnos is a small island with a population
of around 2,500, and one I cover easily in a
day’s drive with Ronia and Giannis, another
affable local guide. We venture from the
hilltop ruins of Agios Andreas, an ancient
Mycenaean town, to Kastro, a Venetian citadel
built in the early 13th century. Island life is
revealed in layers, from the flowing purple
robes of an Othodox priest walking through
Artemonas to George Bairamis, a potter whom
I watch moulding wet, orange mulch into the
terracotta pots that will hold the delicious
Sifnian stews of the future. When he’s not
working, George likes to go spearfishing, he
tells me. And yes, he cooks his catch.
It’s not all rustic and unassuming, of course.
The Sifnian secret has travelled, like the sweet
whiff of bakeries in its lanes. In summer,
visitors range from Athenian weekenders to
wandering stars. Tom Hanks is a fan of the
cooking at Omega 3, on Platis Gialos, I’m told.
The beach is also home to the Lost Bay Beach
Bar, whose barista Konstantinos Tsekouras
has twice been named Greece’s best. In
September, a three-day ‘Nikolaos Tselementes’
Cycladic Gastronomy Festival sees islanders
from across the archipelago share their takes
on traditional food. The sophistication is
simmering away, but still feels understated,
authentic. Sifnos is famous for not being
famous, as a recent New York Times story put
it. Ronia was happy with that.
“Food is a good way to know people,” she
muses as we tour. “It’s hard not to eat well on
the island, because everybody feels they have
to work up to that reputation. Visitors expect
to eat nice.”

Did you know // T he colour blue dominates many buildings in the

Cyclades, from church domes to door shutters. T he reason? In ancient
times the colour of the sky was supposed to ward off evil spirits

April 2018 81
GREECE

I
wish all days could begin like this.
I’m sitting on the clifftop balcony at
THE STUNNER Aigialos Hotel, a series of restored

SANTORINI
Santorini is every bit as spectacular
as it seems on Instagram. But you
need to get your boots on to escape
the crowds
former sea captains’ mansions in Fira.
The morning light is laying a shine on
the Cycladic whites; waiters are ferrying
breakfast trays up steep steps. Hundreds
of feet below, in the volcanic crater around
which Santorini is wrapped, tenders zip back
and forth to a cruise ship.
For now, it’s quiet. But that will change.
When I checked in the previous evening,
I asked the hotel receptionist when to
expect sunset. “7pm,” she said. “That’s the
time you’ll fall in love.” It’s also when the
terraces in the towns of Oia and Fira are most
crowded; when the sun sinks into the caldera
IMAGE: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE

and a slow-mo explosion of colour lights up

the sky. I want to see that, of course I do. But I
also want to seek out Santorini’s secrets.
They don’t come easy.
“You’re on the beaten track here,”
deadpans Craig Walzer, one of the owners
of Atlantis Books, in Oia. This busy little

82 natgeotraveller.co.uk

Did you know // T he Greek language doesn’t have a sof t ‘c’ sound . T hat
means the Cyclades are pronounced ‘Kyklades’
bolthole crammed with nooks, crannies and
quirky flourishes (a history of the store is
handwritten on its ceiling) and it gives me
hope. Santorini’s extreme beauty has made
it one of the most expensive stays in the
Cyclades. Cruise visitors are limited to 8,000
a day. Visiting brides pose for photo after
photo. But it does off-radar, too.
After breakfast, I meet Vicky Matsaka,
of WalkAbout Tours & Adventure, a small
company she runs with her husband. The day
before, we walked part of the cliff path that
rims the caldera’s lip from Oia to Fira. Now,
we’re headed east, starting at the island’s
highest point, in Pyrgos, and hiking an hour
or so to Emporio. It doesn’t take long to lose
the crowds. Shortly after tramping through
Pyrgos’s maze-like streets to a Venetian castle
on a hill, we pass a donkey with its ears rolled
back and ornamental seashells on its forehead.
We push on into the parched countryside,
past dry stone walls, and whiffy bushes of
rosemary and thyme that puff to dust in my
fingers. There are views of mountains and
twinkling seas. We pass abandoned cave
houses, a pomegranate tree, a crying rooster,
before easing back into civilisation.
As we walk, we discuss Santorini’s status
as a small but serious producer of wine, with
a dozen or so wineries harvesting from vines
woven into the shape of wreath-like baskets
to fend off wind on the volcanic slopes. In the
south east, we visit the partially excavated
ruins of Akrotiri, an ancient settlement linked
with the legendary Lost City of Atlantis (hence
the name of Craig’s bookstore). Akrotiki was
buried by a volcanic eruption in 1620 BC, and
today, you can stroll through and around a
section of its petrified, Pompeii-like streets.
The volcano last erupted in 1950. Is it
extinct now, I wonder?
“Erm... it’s dormant,” Vicky laughs.
After our walk, we drive down a dirt road
to meet Michalis Alefragis, a shepherd
tending his goats in a lone valley. With
his peaked cap, handlebar moustache and
blue denim jacket, Michalis is the picture
of a traditional Cycladic Islander — an
GREECE
increasingly exotic species on Santorini.
With a loud, gravelly voice, he tells me about
his farming. “Goat droppings are more
precious than gold,” he chuckles, clearly
enamoured of this all-natural fertiliser. “If
you take a five-euro note from your wallet
and put it in the ground, you’ll get nothing.”
He still enjoys working the land, watching
his animals, producing everything from
tomatoes to aubergines and wine for his
family restaurant (The Good Heart), nearby.
After our chat, that’s where he heads,
standing in the doorway to greet customers
and offer them crackers topped with his
wife’s homemade tomato sauce.
Later, Vicky and I catch the sunset on top
of the hill behind Michalis’s goat pen, peering
down over the sun-blushed cliffs near White
Beach. As the sun morphs into an orange
coin on the horizon, I’m glad I’m not jostling
for space on the terraces of Oia and Fira, but
equally, I know that right now, everyone on the
island is bound by the same, enchanting spell.
I check the time on my phone. It’s exactly 7pm.
April 2018 83
GREECE
T H E N AT U R A L
NAXOS
Naxos is the Cyclades’ natural
playground, with a diverse landscape
capable of disarming even the most
avid island-hopper
I
really don’t want to write about Naxos.
It takes just 48 hours to come to that
conclusion. After which, I want to stow
this beautiful island away, zip my lips,
keep it for myself. If Santorini and
Mykonos shout, Naxos whispers. And
now, it’s whispering to me. Its subtleties
are not immediately obvious. Naxos is the
biggest island in the Cyclades. It boasts the
archipelago’s highest peak (Mount Zeus, at
3,294ft). It’s easily accessible by ferry. It’s not
short on resorts or Airbnbs, and come July
and August, its restaurants spill over like any
holiday town on the Med.
So what sets it apart? I put the question to
a waitress at a waterside restaurant. Before
us, boats bob in the harbour. Behind, the
Venetian Kastro rises like a hilltop labyrinth.
“It’s not spoiled,” she says after some
thought. “We’re simple here. Tourism is
young. We have other resources.”
Not like Mykonos, then?
She smiles. “No. Not like that.”
Naxos is a natural. It ripples with
mountains and valleys. It reveals surprising
lushness and greenery. Look closely, and
you’ll see walkers in the folds of its terrain.
Maybe a peloton of cyclists will whoosh past.
Unlike some Cycladic islands, where arid
ground and tourist development mean most
produce is imported, Naxian agriculture
is thriving. Foodies rave about its sweet
tomatoes, small, super-tasty potatoes, its
citron and honking farmhouse cheeses.
Tourism is slowly making an appearance, but
outside of peak season, it doesn’t feel choked
by or beholden to it.
“Growing up, we had the kind of freedom
that kids who live in big cities don’t have,”
says Eleni Kontopidi, my guide on the island.
“We’d take our bikes and disappear all day
and our parents wouldn’t be worried.”
Mirrored sunglasses perch amid her thick
streams of brown, curly hair, as she drives us
around in a little blue VW Polo. Eleni had to
go away to come back, of course — leaving
after high school to spend time in Rhodes,
84 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Athens and France, distancing herself from
the smallness of the Cyclades.
“I was one of those people who said I am
never going back to Naxos.”
Now here she is, back in Naxos.
We drive towards the heart of the island,
where coastal dust gives way to a leafier
interior cut with switchbacks and hairpin
bends. Snow-white villages remind me of
the Moroccan mountains or Las Alpujarras
in Spain; I marvel at sparkling churches
perched on high peaks. Eleni tells me that
each of Naxos’s 44-odd villages has its own
dance; that Keramoti, hidden like a berry in a
forested valley, was the only one to elude the
Nazis during the Second World War.
At Halki, the inland town that served as
the capital under Venetian rule, we stop
at a family-run citron liqueur distillery.
En route to the pretty mountain village
of Apiranthos, we pull over to pick up a
hitchhiking shepherd. Within seconds, he
and Eleni have found a common link: he
knows her grandmother. Walking into thin
streets dotted with geraniums, I watch kids
on bikes move around the sheperd like fish.
Apiranthos’s main square is the size of a
postage stamp, but you know you’re in a
living, breathing Cycladic town.
“Some people say that once you go to
two or three Cycladic islands, they’re all
the same,” Eleni muses. “I don’t agree.
Sometimes it’s the beaches, sometimes the
food, sometimes folklore. There’s always
something different.”
For Eleni, on Naxos, it’s the sea. During
her time away from the island, she tells me,
the blueberry-blue Aegean was calling. Her
father loved to go spearfishing, and she
took to the water as a toddler. I ask Eleni
to show me one of her favourite beaches,
and we venture off-track towards Aliko in
the south east, where a small cove beckons
PREVIOUS PAGE:
beneath the concrete husk of an abandoned, Sunrise overlooking the
half-built hotel. I grab my fins and mask and caldera, Santorini
head into the blue, while Eleni sits on the RIGHT: Traditional
beach and rolls a cigarette. backstreet
IMAGE: GETTY
GREECE

April 2018 85
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 GREECE

FROM TOP: Old Market Street, Old Town; a Naxian

shepherd in Apiranthos

Afterwards, she recalls the time a

tourist once asked her where to fi nd the
best swimming pools on this natural
playground. “Are you kidding?” she laughed.
“You’re on Naxos and you want to swim in
a pool?”
That evening, I walk over the short spit
of land connecting Naxos town with tiny
Palatia Island, home to Naxos’s most iconic
feature: a 2,500-year-old arch that, in the
early-evening light, looks like the National
Geographic border. The Portara is a gateway
to a temple that was never built, but it feels
like a window into the rich mythology of the
Cyclades, and has stood through wave after
wave of cultural influence, from Byzantine to
Venetian and beyond. Theseus is said to have
abandoned Ariadne here after slaying the
Minotaur in Crete, while a young Zeus grew
up nearby on his namesake mountain.
I mosey back down for dinner. Naxos has
its cocktail bars and tatty restaurants, but
somehow manages to absorb them. I see
snatches of sea through the passages, and get
distracted picking my way along Old Market
Street, a spaghetti-like lane twisting past
restaurants, cafes, jewellers and souvenir
shops tailormade for summer-evening strolls.
Pink bougainvillea pops. A yellow bicycle is
mounted on a blue shutter. Eventually, I wind
my way to Eleni’s dinner tip: Irini’s Restaurant,
where a gregarious waiter suggests the lamb
stew, served in tomato sauce with those
yellow, herby, addictive Naxian potatoes.
“It’s not actually lamb,” he adds, almost as
an afterthought, while laying down bread and
gathering up menus. “It’s kid. Young goat.”
I wait no longer than five minutes for the
stew. The ‘lamb’ is so ridiculously tender, an
ant could push it off the bone.
I pick up my pen. Damn it, time to write
about Naxos.

IOS: Ios’s friendly port
(Gaios), blissful beaches
and party reputation
make it one of the most
popular Cyclades islands,
but you can easily slip
away from the partying
IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE
FOLEGANDROS: Around
an hour by ferry from
Santorini, it’s an island
few will recognise, but
that’s just perfect if
you’re looking to go a
little off -radar in the
WHERE ELSE?
DELOS: A short trip AMORGOS: You want off - PAROS: A short spin
from Mykonos, Delos the-beaten-track? Head from Naxos in the
is said to be the to the Small Cyclades, Eastern Cyclades,
birthplace of twins ‘behind’ Naxos. Beyond Paros is a great hub for
Apollo and Artemis. those, at the chain’s most summer ferry-hopping.
A UNESCO World southeasterly point, Windsurfing and a
Heritage Site, it has lies Amorgos. Beautiful range of quiet beaches

crowds — exploring hills,
beaches and sugar-cube
villages. It’s also said to
be the birthplace
of Homer.
Western Cyclades.
Vertiginous cliff s are its
most famous feature (the
white-washed Hora is
perched atop of one).
a wealth of ancient walking, vibrant village are reasons to linger.
monuments and mosaics life and few visitors Antiparos and its cave,
and is famous as an (outside of July and with graffi ti from the
ancient Greek religious August) await. Take a 1700s, is a 10-minute
and commercial centre. ferry from Naxos. ferry ride away.

April 2018 87
GREECE
T H E P L AY B OY
MYKONOS
Hedonism and star power dominate
its flash summer months, but
off-season reveals an island with
sometimes surprising heart
A
s the EasyJet flight circles the
scorched-earth landscape of Greece’s
party island, a Fleet Foxes lyric is
stuck in my brain.
‘And you will go to Mykonos
With a vision of a gentle coast
And a sun to maybe dissipate
Shadows of the mess you made’
I’m playing over the possible meanings,
and what this island will mean for me. The
Cyclades takes its name from the Greek
‘kiklos’ because its islands ‘circle’ the sacred
island of Delos, the ancient religious centre
and mythical birthplace of Apollo. Delos is
just a few miles from Mykonos, but there’s
little doubt which island is most central to
life in the archipelago these days.
“Mykonos is a strange place,” says my
driver, poring over an island map whose
most notable feature is a Starbucks logo.
Just 10,000 or so people call it home, but in
summer that bulges beyond belief. Charters
jet in. Beaches and roads and restaurants
overflow. Music throbs and cocktails kick.
“It’s crazy, you have to push people to get
through the town,” he sighs. “You can’t walk.”
I’ve come in autumn, however. I want
to see Mykonos when the hedonism is in
hibernation, when the sting is gone from
the sun. When I drive to the party hub of
Paradise Beach, I find thousands of empty
Champagne bottles stacked up against a
fence, 10-litre cocktail buckets for €120, and
a ‘Twerk it, bitch!’ special kicking off at 4pm.
But a cool breeze blows over empty loungers
too, as if Mykonos itself is breathing a sigh of
relief. It feels like its guard is down.
In October, locals seem to come out of the
woodwork. They’re here all year of course,
just hard to spot in the melee. Now, I sit
for coffee on a backstreet by the harbour
in Hora, the main town, watching people
come and go to mass — an old woman in a
black headscarf, a mother playing with her
daughters on the sand, gnarly-fisted men
hobnobbing beneath flourescent cafe lights.
At Vienoula’s Garden Hotel, where I’m
staying, I ask the owner for a local restaurant
recommendation, and get a little mark
on the map above a northwestern beach
88 natgeotraveller.co.uk
called Agios Sostis. An hour or so later, I
lean my dusty rental bike against a wall and
follow the smoky bouquet of a barbecue
down towards an emerald cove with a tiny,
whitewashed church. There’s a queue outside
Kiki’s Tavern, and a waiter directs me to ‘Mr
Vasilis’ in the kitchen.
I find a huge man in a Hawaiian shirt,
holding court at a salad bar. There’s a
30-minute wait, he explains. But it’s worth it.
Not long afterwards, my lunch is plucked from
a grill sizzling with calamari, fish and pork
chops big enough to club a man to death with.
“What’s best?” I ask.
“The best thing is the queue outside,” Mr
Vasilis grins.
In many ways, Mykonos is a mirage.
Made famous as a luxe escape by Jackie and
Aristotle Onassis, it’s both one of the Med’s
hottest party scenes and a celeb crossroads,
visited by everyone from Leo to Mariah and
Versace (it’s got a Nobu, and private cabanas
with their own butlers, whirlpool baths and
Ligne St Barth skin products at Nammos
restaurant on Psarou Beach). But you don’t
have to twerk it or spend a small fortune to
get to the heart of the island either. It’s a place
you can explore easily in the shoulder season,
spotting little churches and dovecotes,
pulling into swimming coves, taking the boat
to Delos, or just following your nose.
‘And a sun to maybe dissipate
Shadows of the mess you made
By early evening, the tight lanes’
and toothpaste-white buildings of the
Old Town twinkle with jewellery and
souvenirs. Handfuls of tourists head out for
sundowners, leaving trails of aftershave and
perfume in the air.
“The girls want to get sunset,” I overhear
one man saying. “Aw, we’ve seen about 20
f**king sunsets already!” his friend moans.
Mykonos is indeed a strange place. But
IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE
waves lick against the teetering buildings of
Little Venice, and everybody looks beautiful.
LEFT FROM TOP: Clothes shop in Old Town, Hora;
pork chop at Kiki’s Tavern, Old Town; early autumn
bougainvillea in Hora; Paradise Beach
RIGHT: Little Venice, Mykonos
 GREECE

Mykonos is both one of

the Med’s hottest party
scenes and a celeb
crossroads, visited by
ever yone from Leo to
Mariah and Versace

April 2018 89
 GREECE

T H E R O C K S TA R

MILOS
Milos is the rock star of the
Cyclades, a geological wonderland
whose birth scars are literally etched
into the earth
IMAGE: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE

B
acking butt-first down a cliff path
towards a hidden cove, my footing
gives way. Sand billows up into my
eyes. I grasp the thick rope tied to a
stake at the top of the descent, steady
myself and get my bearings.
Through a narrow gap in the rocks below,
I can see the shimmering sea. A swimmer
is doing a neat front crawl a few hundred
yards out, and it looks like he has the
ocean to himself. I’m determined to spoil
his solitude. Inching on down, I reach a
wooden ladder, the final steps to Tsigrado
Beach. But just as I’m about to climb onto
it, a blonde girl in a black bikini appears
from nowhere, glides by and asks if I mind
taking her picture. I oblige, and she scoots
on ahead.
Milos, in the Western Cyclades, is a rock
star, and Tsigrado is just the beginning.
Similar in shape to Santorini, only larger, the
island encircles a blown-out volcanic crater.
Its geology blows my mind. Imagine a volcano
erupting through a sweet shop, leaving the
results frozen in time. There are jagged stacks,
smooth pumice tufts, random rocks that look
like they’ve been dusted with turmeric and
saffron. Miners have scoured the earth here
for millennia, digging for obsidian, perlite
and myriad other minerals. Take a boat trip

April 2018 91
GREECE
around the coast, and you’ll see psychedelic
stratification and basalt columns.
It makes for sensational beaches too. At
Fyriplaka, to the south, I pass two kayakers
about to paddle around a chunky sea stack
beneath cliffs threaded with tendrils of
white, yellow and red. Sarakiniko, to the
north, is a meringue-like moonscape, with
curving pumice formations smooth and
chalky to the touch, and a little inlet leading
to blue, choppy waves. At Paleochori, I swim
along the coast to warm sulphur springs
where you can see tiny bubbles shooting
into jade-green water — popping up from
holes in the sand, between rocks, with little
fish whizzing about between them. There’s a
distinctive pong above the surface.
Several people make a point of telling me
there are more beaches on Milos than any
other Cycladic island. The numbers vary. Is
it 75? 90?
“When I first came to Milos, it was so
white I couldn’t open my eyes for the
brightness,” says Gladwin Kiritsi. Originally
from Belfast, and still speaking with a
92 natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE
Northern Irish accent, Gladwin first visited
in the 1980s with her partner, who hails from
Milos. She remembers him taking her out
Gladwin recalls her
on a boat and leaping into the water with a
cigarette still in his mouth. partner, who hails from
“At first I thought I married a Greek god,”
she jokes affectionately. “But it turns out I Milos, taking her out on
married a goddamned Greek!”
There’s more to Milos than geological a boat and leaping into
goodies, as Gladwin shows me. Together, we
walk through a stunning set of Roman ruins
— including a theatre — near Trypiti, and
the water with a
pass by a suite of catacombs said to be the
most important early Christian monument cigarette still in his
in Greece. Then she points out an olive tree
in a grove of hundreds. mouth
“That’s where a farmer discovered the
Venus de Milo,” she says. As in, the actual
Venus de Milo. The marble masterpiece, with
its twisting torso and mysterious missing
arms, was discovered here in 1820, before
being whisked away to Louis XVIII and the PREVIOUS PAGE: The sun sets on a fishing harbour, Milos
Louvre. It’s still a touchy subject. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Tsigrado Beach; syrmata,
We drive down corkscrew roads to the Milos; Gladwin Kiritsi at her house in Klima
fishing village of Klima, where Gladwin NEXT PAGE: Sarakiniko Beach
GREECE
and her husband have a pretty syrmata
(traditional fisherman’s house), just inches
from the water. With boat sheds on the
ground floor and living areas above, plus
brightly painted balconies and gates, these
properties have become a hit on Airbnb.
Syrmata began life as caves, Gladwin tells
me. As we talk, the sea rakes the pebbles
back and forth, and older passers-by tell us to
mind our step on the slippery piers.
I’m trying to think of a way to take a piece
of Milos home. Back on the main drag, after
sitting in the cobbled town of Plaka to eat a
pizza topped with taste-bombs of tomato,
and a sweet, nutty baklava, we hit on an idea.
Gladwin calls a jewellery store owner, and
she opens up for me to sift through the cases,
eventually picking out a butterfly necklace
made of black lava for my daughter.
Its rocks set Milos apart. But as with all
of the Cyclades, the longer I stay, and the
more people I speak to, the more difficult it
becomes to describe.
“Milos is multifaceted,” says Leonidas
Fotinos, relishing the syllables of the word.
“Mul-ti-fa-ce-ted. It’s off the beaten track.
It doesn’t obey the mass tourism rules.”
Miners have scoured Milos for millennia , digging
for obsidian , perlite and myriad other minerals.
Take a boat trip, and you’ll see psychedelic
stratification and basalt columns
94 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Leonidas runs the aptly named Small Islands
travel company out of Adamantas. He’s the
man who introduced me to Gladwin, and
he also takes me on a jeep safari through
the island’s wild, western half — a nature
reserve. Visitors are coming in growing
numbers to Milos, he tells me, but he sees
no danger of the place becoming a package
holiday hotspot.
Leonidas invites me to dinner at To
Petrino, a family-run restaurant a short drive
outside Adamantas. He’s a big man, resting
a forearm on his wine glass as he talks,
enthusing about the island’s geology while
we pick our way through an equally rich
spread of salad, pitarakia (cheese tartlets),
lachanodolmades (stuffed cabbage rolls)
and roulades made to the owner’s mother’s
recipes. The rosé flows, and we get talking
about life, philosophy, the future. After the
age of 50 “you realise you are a product with
an expiration date,” he muses. “You realise
you don’t have countless moments left; the
moments are limited. So you value them. You
make sweet compromises.”
I can’t think of better advice for touring
this remote part of the Cyclades.
ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
There are direct flights from Gatwick,
Heathrow and Manchester to Santorini
and Mykonos. Alternatively, you can fly
from London, Edinburgh and
Manchester to Athens and connect by
domestic flights or ferry from the Port
of Piraeus.
Seajets, among others, provide ferry
transfers from Piraeus (Athens) and
connections between 22 Cycladic
islands, as well as Crete. Summer sees
the most connections, with routes
thinning out from October. seajets.gr
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are the
best times to visit the Cyclades, with
warm temperatures, fewer crowds and
lower rates. September finds the
Aegean Sea at its warmest and
mosquitos are less of a problem.
More info
visitgreece.gr
greektravel.com
How to do it
Sunvil offers bespoke itineraries for
Greece and the Cyclades. A week in
May, including flights from London
Gatwick, ferry/plane transfers, four
nights on Milos and three nights on
Sifnos starts from £844 per person
IMAGE: GETTY
(based on two sharing). An 11-day trip
in May with several nights on Santorini,
Naxos and Paros costs from £984 per
person. sunvil.co.uk
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l i fe. Come immer se you rse l f i n t h e a n c i e n t

cult ure, wit h aut he n t i c A e ge a n c h a ra c t e r.

info@kaparisantorini.gr | w w w. k a p a r i s a n t o r i n i . g r
 o ri
T H E R E ’ S

à
S O M E T H I N G

�
A B O U T

T O G E T B E N E AT H T H E S K I N O F M Ā O R I C U LT U R E
YO U H AV E T O R E A D B E T W E E N T H E L I N E S .
BEYOND THE BOMBASTIC NOISE OF
T R A D I T I O N A L H A K A D I S P L AY S , I N D I G E N O U S
NEW ZEALAND LIFE HAPPENS IN THE ‘SMALL
P L AC E S ’, I N T H E H U S H O F I T S F O R E S T S A N D
ON THE QUIET OF ITS LAKES AND SHORES

WORDS EMMA THOMSON

96 natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGE: GETTY

April 2018 97
NEW ZEALAND

C
harles Pipi Tukukino Royal is
surprisingly diminutive for a
culinary colossus — an elfin
man who comes up to my chin,
with a wave of grey hair and
two delicate koru (ferns) tattooed on his
ears. This is rather fitting because Charles is
something of a fern aficionado.
The Māori chef started as an army
field cook, aged 15, before becoming a
restaurateur and going on to create menus
for Air New Zealand — in the process, being
named Innovative Chef of the Year by the
Restaurant Association of New Zealand in
2003. Today, Charles runs foraging tours and
traditional Māori cooking classes, as well as
supplying restaurants with wild plants. All
of which explains why I find myself rooting
around with him in his ‘backyard’, near
Lake Rotoma, half an hour east of the city of
Rotorua on North Island.
Comprising five acres of century-old forest,
this is a compact cosmos of plant power.
Branches, thick as a bouncer’s biceps, bar our
entrance. Sinewy lianas coil around them
like crossed arms. I stand on my tiptoes for
a glimpse of the shadowy interior, but its
secrets are indecipherable without an insider.
Luckily, I’ve someone to do the talking for me.
Charles dips beneath the barricade of vines
without a whisper of complaint from the big
trees, so I scurry after him like a groupie. “Let’s
say a karakia [prayer] to thank the land,” he
says, delicately placing his palm on a tract of
bark. From his lips spill whispers so soft and
spell-like the trees seem to close in around us,
listening. Logs, robed in moss, lounge against
each other luxuriously and the floor is dressed
in a filigree of leaf skeletons.
Charles weaves, cougar-like, between the
tangle. “There are 312 species of fern in New
Zealand; 14 are edible,” he says in a hushed
voice. “This one — silver fern — you can’t eat
it but it glows in the dark, so if you’re in the
bush at night you can leave a trail to find your
way back.” Charles snaps off the tip and turns
it over to show me its shimmery belly. “And
if bushmen need energy, we eat this: bush
asparagus — have a taste.” It’s slimy, like
okra. We delve further.
Charles carries a weathered blue bag and,
as we dip and dodge, he fills it with a snippet

PREVIOUS PAGE: An unfurling frond of a tree fern

CLOCKWISE: Track to Roaring Billy Falls, Mt Aspiring
National Park, South Island

98 natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGE: GETTY
NEW ZEALAND

April 2018 99
NEW ZEALAND
FROM LEFT: Māori wood
carving; Katz Maihi
displays mataora (facial
tattoos) at Te Puia
100 natgeotraveller.co.uk
of this and a handful of that, reciting each
of their names — vowel-tastic titles as
delicious to the ears as they are to the tongue:
pikopiko, horopito and kawakawa. “This one,”
he says, fondling the heart-shaped leaf of the
kawakawa, “is amazing — it can be used as
an antiseptic, on sores, for eczema, even as
a blood thinner. And here, lichen moss, one
of the oldest plants in the world. It’s actually
half vegetable, half fungus and is good for
prostate cancer.” Charles strips some off and
pops it in his top pocket. A few steps further,
he hands me a tawhara fern. “See the cone on
top? Eat it. It tastes like an overripe pear.”
We return to Charles’ house with our
pocketed picnic and he whips around the
modest kitchen, putting the finishing
touches to a meal he’d been preparing
for me earlier. I’m on one of the wild food
tours Charles runs to promote Kiwi food
identity. Out of the simple electric oven he
hauls a whopping great rainbow trout he’d
caught earlier this morning, and serves it
with a roundel of soda bread sprinkled with
crushed almonds and black ferns. Charles
hands me a glass of kawakawa tonic and I
sip the bitter brew, absentmindedly taking
in the bed in the living room and a yellowing
map of the area pinned to the wall. It strikes
me this is exactly what I’d hoped for: a toe-
dip into authentic Māori traditions. I say as
much to Charles and he nods. “If you want
to experience real Māori life, you have to go
to the small places. Move away from the city
lights — we’re a grassroots people. ”
Māori renaissance
Travellers to New Zealand often report that
they see little more than staged hakas — the
famous, thigh-slapping war dance that gives
rugby players the willies; that Māori culture
is something of a closed book. Perhaps
because it’s only recently that the indigenous
population have reclaimed their identity.
Pākehā (Europeans) are largely to blame for
that. A good place to get to grips with the
W E WA L K D OW N T H E
H I L L T O F I N D K AT Z
MAIHI. HI S FAC E I S
COVERED IN BOLD
BLACK LINES, YET
IMAGES: GETTY; EMMA THOMSON
IT’S HIS VOICE I
FIND MOST STRIKING;
IT SOUNDS LIKE
FAR- OFF TH U NDE R
NEW ZEALAND

April 2018 101

NEW ZEALAND

W E T U C K I N T O C H I C K E N , C O R N , P O TAT O E S A N D C A B B A G E — W R A P P E D I N

L E AV E S , T H E Y ’ D B E E N S T E A M E D O V E R R O C K S H E AT E D B Y G E O T H E R M A L E N E R G Y

102 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 NEW ZEALAND

history is the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and

Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi, which
overlook the Bay of Islands on the tip of
North Island. It was around these parts that
Polynesian chief Kupe is said to have made
landfall in the 10th century, so discovering
New Zealand. It’s said his wife, Kuramārōtini,
upon glimpsing the island, called it Aotearoa
(‘long white cloud’). Often, this side of history
has been sidelined in favour of stories
about Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, the first
European to land here, in 1642; and Captain
Cook, who first arrived in 1769. “‘Fair-skinned
people with scabs and boils on their skin’ was
how my ancestors described them,” laughs
Solly Hemara, my tour guide, as I follow him
around the grounds.
To escape the drizzle, we shelter under
the porch of a white clapboard house. “It
was on this spot at 11am on Thursday, 6
February 1840 that Captain William Hobson
encouraged 34 Māori chiefs to sign the
Treaty of Waitangi. They erected a marquee
out the front of the house here,” says Solly,
pointing to the damp spread of grass before
us. The document was the first of its kind to
try to protect the rights of a tribal people.
In return for granting Great Britain the
right to rule New Zealand, the chiefs would
keep their land and chieftainships and all
Māori would enjoy the same rights as British
subjects. “The treaty stopped infighting
between tribes and saved us from the French,
who were coming back to ransack and
conquer the islands,” Solly explains. He’s a
fourth-generation descendent of one of the
signatories and puffs out his chest proudly.
However, lapses in translation led to
misunderstandings. The government believed
the treaty permitted complete ownership
of lands and resources, but for the Māori, it
wasn’t so clear cut. “Whenua [land] belongs
to Papatūānuku [Mother Earth], and can
only ever be looked after, not owned,” says
Solly. Land wars ensued in the 1860s, with
territory confiscated as punishment for
‘any rebellion against the Queen’s authority’
and redistributed to European settlers. The
Waitangi Tribunal, set up in 1975, is still
sorting out Māori claims of breaches of the
treaty. During the Second World War, many
young Māoris were forced to relocate to cities
to work in factories, cutting them off from
their land and tikanga (practices). And to
make matters worse, te reo Māori (the Māori
language) had been suppressed in schools
from the mid 19th century onwards, to the
extent that by 1980 only around 20% of Māoris
could speak the language (it remains on the
UNESCO list of endangered languages).
Today, a renaissance is in full swing. Māori
was reinstated as an official language of
IMAGE: GETTY

LEFT: Pohutu Geyser and Prince of Wales Geyser,

Te Puia

April 2018 103

Welcome aboard Interislander cruising through the Marlborough Sounds

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Auckland

Hamilton
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National Park
all embody the same unique and
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 NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand in 1987. It’s sometimes used in

parliament and there are 22 radio stations
and two TV channels exclusively in Māori.
Rotorua is set to become the country’s first
official bilingual city, while a Māori Language
Week is now hosted every September.
But if I am to continue my search for
authentic Māori experiences, it makes
sense to head for the water, since they’re a
seafaring people. Biting winds are bullying
the surface of Lake Rotorua when I meet
Warner Rahurahu, owner of Aotearoa Waka
Experience, the next morning. I’m late to
the party: close to 20 people — from kids to
grandmas — are milling around in life jackets,
eager to jump into the waiting waka (canoe).
Warner is delivering the safety briefing:
“Don’t rest the tongue of the paddle on
the ground,” he instructs. “Is that because
it’s sacred?” I ask. “No, it’s because they
cost 68 dollars each!” he laughs. I’m a little
disappointed. It feels a bit touristy. I’m
directed to sit in the waenga (middle) section,
squashed up against the wooden ribs of the
boat. My paddling partner is a teenage girl
with dyed red hair and chipped nail polish.
“Is this a school trip?” I ask her. “No, this is my
family. We own part of Mokoia Island and are
paddling out to pay our respects,” she says.
My mood flips instantly and, with Warner
bellowing commands from the stern, we dip
our oars into the water as one, ploughing
towards the arc of land on the horizon. After
just a few strokes, my shoulders are burning.
Waves splash over my misplaced oar, soaking
my trousers, but moral stays high as Warner
chants poi waka (canoe songs) to help us keep
rhythm. He calls out and in unison we shout
‘hei’, banging our oars on the sides of the boat.

Tā moko tales
One of the women on the boat has mataora
(facial tattoos). I’m keen to learn more, so,
once docked, I wander Rotorua’s grid of

IT MAKES SENSE TO

H E A D F O R T H E WAT E R ,

SINCE THE MĀORI ARE A

S E AFARING PEOPLE .

BITING WINDS ARE

IMAGES: GETTY; EMMA THOMSON

B U L LY I N G T H E S U R FA C E

OF LAKE ROTORUA

W H E N I M E E T WA R N E R

RAHURAHU

April 2018 105


IMAGES: EMMA THOMSON; GETTY
PREVIOUS PAGE: Traditional Māori
waka (canoe); wood-carving
apprentice, Te Puia
FROM LEFT: Hohua Mohi, owner
of Moko 101, traditional Māori
hongi greeting
EVERYONE HAS A JOURNEY INSIDE THEM — I
J US T B RING THOS E S TORIE S TO THE S U RFAC E OF
TH E IR S KIN. TH E R E ’ S NO TR AC IN G PA PE R!
streets in search of Moko 101, a tattoo studio
run by Hohua Mohi. There are no black
books with laminated pages of barbed wire
and dolphins here. No point-to posters on
the walls. Hohua sits at the end of the long,
empty room tattooing tauri kamare (cuffs)
onto his niece, who’s reclined on a leather
bed. His nephew plays video games in the
corner. No one looks up as I approach and
I feel a little shy. Hohua is a large man,
covered head-to-toe in ta moko (tattoos).
“Everywhere except my arse,” he laughs,
switching off the humming needle for a
break. “The lips and eyes were the most
painful.” Full facial tattoos like Hohua’s are
slowly gaining popularity again. “It means
you’re a ‘person of the people’, so your
community have to tell you you’re worthy of
it,” he says proudly.
Having tattooed over 10,000 clients, it
can be agreed that Hohua is something
of an expert. Each ta moko is unique, and
you don’t just wander in and tell him what
you want — he tells you. “They don’t have
a choice over the design — only the story
they tell me. You see, everyone has a journey
inside them — I just bring those stories to
the surface of their skin. There’s no tracing
paper!” I scan the markings covering
Hohua’s arms and hands. “You can trace the
genealogy of our people through ink. We
NEW ZEALAND
may have stopped using traditional tools
like albatross bone, but the language of
patterns never left us.”
“But what do the symbols mean?” I ask.
“All moko patterns are taken from nature
— it’s what connects us Polynesians. But
it’s actually the empty space between the
designs that’s key, because it lets manawa
(the heart of a person) shine through,” says
Hohua, picking up the needle once more.
“There are rules, though: you can never
put an ancestor on a foot, and the space
around the ears is for someone who taught
you something,” he continues, wiping away
the ink and blood on his niece’s wrist with a
tissue. “The ink binds us to our family,
our ancestors.”
“And how do you feel about non Māori
getting the tattoos?” I ask. Hohua smiles. “It
helps to normalise it,” he shrugs. “And that’s
my mission.”
Night is drawing in so I go to say goodbye.
“Do we touch foreheads?” I ask. “Ha!
Outsiders are always hankering for a hongi
[the touching of foreheads to exchange ha,
the breath of life], but this is formal. We hug
people when we know them,” laughs Hohua,
enveloping me in a bear hug.
Also on a mission is 29 year-old Māori
designer Adrienne Whitewood. She owns
Ahu Boutique, in Rotorua, and is just back
April 2018 107
NEW ZEALAND
Te Whare Rūnanga (the
House of Assembly),
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
from her first solo show at New Zealand
Fashion Week when I drop in to meet her.
“I realised there were no high-end Māori
designs, just souvenir Māoriana styles,” she
tells me, putting clothes on hangers. Her
T-shirts featuring Warhol-style prints of
female Māori legends such as Hinemoa (the
Māori equivalent of Shakespeare’s Juliet) and
Pania (a maiden who dived into the sea and
turned into a reef to save her land) sought to
address that, and were an instant hit. But she’s
keen to spread the success. “I’ve mentored
seven other designers so far,” she says proudly.
South of the city is Te Puia, a sprawling,
173-acre cultural centre built to promote Māori
traditions. It’s famous for its Pōhutu Geyser,
mud pools and hot springs. But behind this
and the visitor-pleasing kiwi bird enclosures,
real work is going on. There are schools
teaching weaving, and wood, stone and bone
carving to Māori apprentices.
I head to the workshops round the back to
meet Clive Fugill. Nearly 70 and decked out
in a fisherman’s cap and glasses, he’s been
carving for 56 years and has contributed to 120
Māori marae (meeting houses), including the
one at the Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi.
“People think they’re building a house, but it’s
the people who end up being built,” Clive nods,
sagely. As he speaks, I notice the younger men
stop and listen to him reverently. Apprentice
Tukiri Tini, 22, chimes in: “If you haven’t got
the passion, there’s no point — you’ve got to
love every line you cut,” he says. A whale made
of bone leaps through his earlobe. “A gift from
the master carver,” he says, nodding towards
Clive and delicately fingering the piercing.
Te Puia staff member Sheena Waerea and
23-year-old Ngaa Rauuira Pumanawawhiti,
108 natgeotraveller.co.uk
join me for lunch. Ngaa is something of a
local legend, having attended Yale University
at 16, and has had a film (Māori Boy Genius)
made about him. We’re tucking into parcels of
chicken, corn, potatoes and cabbage wrapped
in leaves that were steamed in a hāngi: a pit
filled with rocks heated by geothermal energy.
“The ‘Māori microwave’,’’ smiles Sheena.
Te Puia will soon be getting a ta moko
studio, so I ask if either of them have any
tattoos. “I wouldn’t feel comfortable wearing
kauae [a chin tattoo] unless I was fluent in
Māori,” says Sheena, hanging her head shyly.
“My friend got one last year and I asked,
‘How are you going to find employment in
mainstream industries?’ She replied, ‘I don’t
want to work for them if they’re hiring me for
my looks.’ It really made me think. Visibility
has definitely started to force acceptance.”
I look to Ngaa and ask if he has any. “Not yet
— I’m still forming my journey,” he says. “But
there’s someone you need to meet.”
We walk down the hill to find Katz Maihi,
head of schools at the New Zealand Māori
Arts and Crafts Institute, at Te Puia. His face
is covered in black lines, yet it’s his voice
I find most striking; it sounds like far-off
thunder. I tell him so. “When we speak Māori
it comes from a different place inside. As
I speak, it’s not just me, it’s my ancestors’
voice. I’m not speaking to your intellect,
but engaging all your senses. You feel it
in your body.” So maybe that’s the key to
experiencing authentic Aotearoa. It’s not the
rush of activities, but the conversations that
convert you from tourist to tai (friend). “Stop
using your eyes to view us. Feel us. We might
look dodgy, but we’re quite approachable,”
beams Katz.
ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
Air New Zealand flies daily from
Heathrow to New Zealand via LA and
other North America cities, plus via
Asia. Cathay Pacific, China Southern
Airlines and Singapore Airlines also fly
from the UK with one stop.
AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 24h.
airnewzealand.co.uk cathaypacific.com
csair.com singaporeair.com
New Zealand offers a comprehensive
bus network, while long-distance rail
operator The Great Journeys of New
Zealand has a handful of routes across
both islands, with fares starting at
NZ$158 (£80). Hiring a car gives greater
freedom, with one-way drops often
available. There are regular flights
between Auckland (North Island), and
Christchurch (South Island), connecting
with smaller airports nationwide.
When to go
Travel in the shoulder seasons
(March-April and September-
November) when airfares are lower, the
weather is fine and smaller towns
haven’t closed for the winter. Matariki
(Māori New Year) is celebrated on 15
June this year, with much partying.
More info
Foraging with Charles Pipi Tukukino
Royal. maorifood.com
Waka canoe tour. aotearoawaka.nz
Te Puia. tepuia.com
Films: Once Were Warriors, Māori Boy
Genius and River Queen.
Books: The Woven Universe.
Apps: Emotiki — for inventive
Māori emojis
How to do it
DISCOVER THE WORLD has bespoke
trips to New Zealand; its 14-night New
Zealand Highlights self-drive costs
from £2,760 per person, including
return flights from the UK with
Singapore Airlines, 14 nights’
accommodation with some breakfasts,
car rental, Interislander ferry crossings,
a Milford Sound Nature Cruise, and
other excursions.
IMAGE: EMMA THOMSON; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
discover-the-world.co.uk
Bay of Islands
Waitangi Treaty
Grounds PAC IFIC
O C EAN
AUCKLAND
Ta s m a n
Rotorua
Lake Rotoma
S e a North
Island
100 Miles
NEW ZEALAND.
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110 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SONG OF
TA K E T O T H E W AT E R S O F R U S S I A , E X P L O R E

ST PETERSBURG’S CANALS AND HEAD OUT

ONTO THE VOLGA RIVER — DRINKING PLENT Y

OF VODK A A S YOU GO — IN SE ARC H OF THE

EVER-ELUSIVE RUSSIAN SMILE

THE VOLGA
W O R D S TA R A I S A B E L L A B U R T O N

BOATMEN
IMAGE: GETTY

April 2018 111

RUSSIA

112 natgeotraveller.co.uk

PREVIOUS PAGE: Fountain and church at
the palace of Peterhof, known as
the ‘Russian Versailles’
FROM TOP: The 22-dome
IMAGES: GETTY
Transfiguration Church on Kizhi island
in Lake Onega; The Great Hall of the
Catherine Palace at Pushkin, near St
Petersburg
I
gor doesn’t smile. This is the first thing
I learn aboard the River Victoria cruise
ship, docked on the Volga River a few
miles north of St Petersburg. With his
neck tattoo, his almost-black eyes, his no
less dark hair, Igor looks like a character
in a novel by the 19th-century ne’er-do-
well Mikhail Lermontov, whose Byronic,
constantly dueling anti-heroes came to define
Russian Romanticism. He acts like one, too.
The bartender on the Victoria, Igor
serves each shot of vodka with melancholy
formality. He answers my questions
curtly, without making eye contact, with a
solemnity whose sincerity I can’t ascertain.
What kind of vodka does he like best?
“I don’t drink vodka.” Where is he from?
“Caucasus.” He allows a beat. “North
Caucasus.” Who is his favourite Russian
writer? “The famous one.” He pours
me another shot of vodka. I drink it.
“Nazdarovye,” he says. Cheers. He doesn’t
smile then, either.
But Igor’s seriousness, I come to learn,
is just part of the Russian experience.
I’d spent years living in Tbilisi, Georgia,
formerly part of the Soviet Union. I’d
learned basic, conversational Russian in
the surrounding countries of Armenia and
Azerbaijan. I’d studied Russian literature,
read Dostoevsky’s and Tolstoy’s paeans to
the ‘real’ Russia: the countryside outside
of the big, cosmopolitan cities such as St
Petersburg and Moscow. I signed up for
Uniworld’s 14-day river cruise between St
Petersburg and Moscow precisely to see that
‘real’ Russia, a land of homemade moonshine
and riverside shashlik barbecues, icon-
sellers and Orthodox priests.
But the Russian experience, I come to
learn, begins on board the River Victoria
itself. Unlike Georgians, who are famous
for their warmth and almost aggressive
ebullience, Russians tend to be more
measured, at least until the vodka comes out.
They don’t waste words, nor do they mediate
their controversial geopolitical situation for
a more mixed foreign audience.
“I’m from south Russia,” another of my
waiters says, early in our trip, pouring out
a glass of Russian saperavi wine from the
Sochi region. “You know. Crimea.”
None of us question him.
My first days in Russia are less of an
adjustment. Stereotypically the most
‘European’ of Russian cities, St Petersburg
is a grand lattice of boulevards and palaces,
art nouveau facades and regal structures.
I tick off the requisite tourist attractions
— visiting the Hermitage, heading to the
Alexandrov theatre for a ballet production
of Swan Lake, where an elderly usher,
pleased I have dressed formally for the
occasion, sneaks me and my similarly attired
companion into the ‘tsar’s box’ for a private
viewing. “Like a tsarina,” he declares.
RUSSIA
I also visit the palaces of the infamous
(and promiscuous) Catherine the Great,
in the town of Pushkin, just outside of St
Petersburg. Here I learn the story of the
powerful empress who, in the words of my
guide, was “a mistress of self-invention”, her
skill in creating a legend of her dynasty far
outweighing her political acumen. Next, I
head to Peterhof, the ‘Russian Versailles’,
known for its expansive gardens as well as
for the fact that Peter the Great, a notorious
agoraphobic, lived not in the main palace, as
you might expect, but in a tiny house on the
edge of the Baltic Sea.
As I wander the garden, the bleakly
comic stoicism I’ve come to expect from my
Russian guides is apparent. One tells me
the story of what happened when a guest
was late to dinner at one of Peter’s parties.
“He was a punctual man. He liked people to
be on time. If you were one minute late…”
my guide points to an enormous beaker
on display, easily large enough to hold two
bottles’ worth of liquid. “You would have to
drink that, full of vodka. Then you would
stumble around the garden and everybody
would laugh at you.” She seems to think this
a perfectly reasonable punishment.
GRAND CANALS
Despite the loveliness of St Petersburg’s
gardens, the most stunning way to see
the city is from the water. I head to one of
the frequent canal cruises that traverse the
city — St Petersburg’s canals and tributaries
are a total of 190 miles long, with more than
800 bridges. From there, history is laid out
along the waterfront: from the Peter and
Paul Fortress, the citadel from which the
whole city sprung, to Stroganov Palace, the
ornate rose-coloured neoclassical home
of the aristocratic Stroganov family (and,
legend has it, home, too, of the famous
beef dish). Then it’s over to the haughty
and grand General Staff Building, housing
the higher-ups of the Russian Army and
Ministries of Finance and Foreign Affairs in
the early 19th century.
My attention is drawn to the sight of a
young boy, hardly 12 years old, running
alongside the embankment. At first, I think
he must be just a playful local, fond of
crossing each bridge and waving to us as we
pass. By the 10th or 11th bridge he pauses
at, joyfully out of breath, I realise this is his
modus operandi. For nearly two hours, the
child runs alongside our boat, his waving and
grinning no less enthusiastic for the many
miles he has run. At last, when our boat
returns to dock, he stops and takes a bow,
to the applause of everyone on the boat. He
seems genuinely surprised when I tip him.
For all the beauty of central St Petersburg,
I find the city’s Soviet-style outskirts,
where we are moored, no less fascinating.
April 2018 113
RUSSIA

I visit the palaces of the infamous — and promiscuous

— Catherine the Great, in the town of Pushkin, and learn
the story of the powerful empress who, in the words of
my guide, was ‘a mistress of self-invention’

114 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 RUSSIA

April 2018 115

RUSSIA
There, old women set up little tailoring shops
in the vestibules of chain supermarkets,
which sell ‘single-serving’ portions of vodka
(about a pint) for under a dollar. I buy several.
But it’s once the Victoria sets sail that I
begin to fall in love with the strangeness of
the ‘real Russia’: the Russia we can see from
outside our cabin windows. As we sail to
Mandrogi, an imitation historic village on
the Svir River, groups of men gather on the
riverbank to cook shashlik, a traditional
barbecue, smoke rising in the air. Men with
accordions play folk songs that echo across
the river.
As we leave urban Russia behind, heading
north to where July is almost snowy and
where no phone signal can reach, I grow
attuned to this new rhythm. At Kizhi, a chilly
and darkly romantic island in the heart of
Lake Onega, I stop to marvel at the wooden
17th-century Church of the Resurrection.
The sky is white and frozen; the marshy
fields of the island — Russia’s largest open-
air museum — extend into the mist of the
horizon. The gargantuan church complex
casts a shadow out into the distance.
The guide, with typical Russian
philosophism, explains the mystery of the
churches’ creation. Nobody knows exactly
how the intricately carved, onion-domed
wooden churches were constructed
— according to legend, without the use
of a single nail. “Who knows?” our local
guide shrugs. “It’s mystery. Is like life. Also
mystery. You try to make decision, to know
outcome. You can’t.”
Regardless, the Church of the Resurrection
is haunting, its wooden interiors filled
with candles, icons and priests. The light
enters the room slantwise in the morning
sun, reminiscent of the ‘slanting rays of the
setting sun’ Dostoevsky wrote about in The
Brothers Karamazov. At last I understand
the meaning of that slant. On this particular
Sunday morning, a service is about to begin,
and a few old women follow the Orthodox
priests into the complex, their heads
covered, as is traditional, with kerchiefs. The
votive candles flicker on either side of each
silver and gold icon, a rare source of light: the
church is not electrified. And even in July,
the frost in the air is palpable.
We go onwards through the complex:
exploring the historic houses, still inhabited
by a few re-enactors spinning wool and
selling crafts, as well as an enormous ginger
tabby cat.
“He has own Instagram,” says the guide.
(This turns out not to be true.)
M E L A N C H O LY &
I N T O X I C AT I O N
Meanwhile, I continue my mission to finally
strike up a conversation with Igor. Night
after night at the ship’s Catherine the Great
116 natgeotraveller.co.uk
themed bar, I try new varieties of vodka,
and practise what little Russian I know. Igor
grows to tolerate my presence or, at least,
he doesn’t seem visibly annoyed when I,
the only person under about 45 on the ship,
decide to make my way to the near-empty
bar for a drink.
I learn a little more about him. He had
been a languages student in the North
Caucasus. He wanted to try his hand on a
French cruise ship one day, to see the world.
He had once been in love. It ended badly.
Still, I can’t get him to smile.
Nowhere I visit captures the spirit of
the Russian countryside, of melancholy
and intoxication, quite like Goritsy, a
small country town a few days’ sail from
St Petersburg. When I disembark onto
the birch-lined riverbank onto a raucous
riverside flea market hawking lace and furs
and homemade vodka concoctions, I’m at
once adopted by an elderly icon-seller.
Upon hearing about my graduate studies
in theology, he immediately sets about
trying to find me the perfect Orthodox icon
to take home. He regrets that he’s
out of my favourite, the Dormition. In
Eastern Orthodox thought, this is the
moment the Virgin Mary falls asleep and
her soul is brought to heaven by Jesus
Christ, who is depicted as a maternal
figure, cradling Mary’s soul in his arms as
he would a child. But perhaps I would take
another classic Russian icon: a 19th-century
wooden, hand-painted rendering of the
Transfiguration, representing the moment
Christ appears to his disciples as a divine
being on Mount Tabor. “Is beautiful! Is old!”
I agree, and buy it.
I wander Goritsy, heading to the nearby
14th-century Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery,
once the largest monastery in Russia. It’s
impossible, I find, to contend with the
Russian Orthodox Church, or with orthodox
imagery more generally. In today’s Russia,
the church is a powerful political force. The
Russian patriarch, Kirill of Moscow, and
President Vladimir Putin are allies who share
a socially and politically conservative vision
of the ‘true Russia’ — a religious place where
church and state power are intertwined. But
as I walk through the monastery, I realise
how old this alliance between church and
state in Russia really is.
A near-impregnable fortress, the
monastery is full of churches and chapels
containing treasures from both the
medieval era and the 17th-century: from
the hand-painted icons in the Dormition
Cathedral to the 16th-century wooden PREVIOUS PAGE: The Catherine Palace
at Pushkin, the summer residence of the
chapels on the grounds.
Russian tsars
In the distance, I can hear the plaintive
CLOCKWISE: Hand-painting at
IMAGES: GETTY
sound of music: men’s voices in a strangely Mandrogi, a crafts village on the Svir
discordant harmony. I slip away from my river; an accordian player in Uglich; the
tour group. There, in one of the smaller Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery in Kirillov,
chapels, a group of three Orthodox priests, near Goritsy
 RUSSIA

April 2018 117

RUSSIA

clad in black robes, all with long brown
beards, are rehearsing their music. The
haunting sound of Eastern plainchant echos
off the domes.
They stop, briefly, when I come closer.
Then they nod at me and keep going, their
voices melding together in chant. I leave as
song, one that I’ve by now heard several ABOVE: The downtown area of Yoshkar-
times along my cruise. At last, I ask a Ola in the Volga region
companion what it is. It’s the Song of the
Volga Boatmen, one of the most popular of
Russian melodies. It’s no more optimistic
Kizhi Island
than anything else I’ve heard, a paean to Lake
Lake
Onega
hard work and repetitive days. Ey, ukhnyem!, Ladoga

it begins to pour down rain, rushing under the chorus goes. Ahoy, heave-ho. But by Mandrogi Goritsy
a protective archway. In the distance, I can now, the music has become familiar, even
St Petersburg Rybinsk
hear another guide, no less fatalistic. “Yes, comforting. Before I know it, I’m humming Reservoir

it’s raining. But, you understand, it is Russia. it, too. R U S S I A Uglich

Things can always be worse.”
BE AUT Y IN THE BLE AK
Slowly but inexorably, I come to fall in love
with Russia. Although it isn’t as obviously
friendly or gregarious as the countries
that had first awakened my love for the
former Soviet Union, the work I have to
put in so as to find my away around and
meet people soon proves rewarding; their
very brittleness becomes endearing. At
the small city of Uglich, most famous
for its frescoed churches, including the
Church of Saint Demetrios on the Blood,
built to commemorate the murder of
Ivan the Terrible’s young son, Dmitri, I
meet a mysterious woman wandering the
manicured parklands. She’s dressed in
Back on the ship, I find that, almost
two weeks into the cruise, I’m starting to
learn the Russian way. During my evening
sessions with Igor, I no longer try to make
him laugh. Instead I listen as he teaches
me the words he deems necessary for me to
make the most of my Russian experience:
stopka, a shot of alcohol, as well as a few
more profane terms.
Finally, I teach him a word of my
own: ‘Deadpan’. I explain to him that
it encapsulates his personality fairly
accurately. ‘Dead. Pan.’ His mouth twitches,
which I take as a sign he likes it. “Yes,” he
decides. “I’m deadpan.” He pours me an
extra shot for my trouble.
As the Victoria sails into Moscow,
docking at Rechnoy Vokzal, the old Soviet
river-port, complete with an enormous,
Rechnoy
MOSCOW
Vagzal
100 Miles
ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
Aeroflot flies daily from Gatwick and
Heathrow to Moscow’s Sheremetyevo
Airport. British Airways also offers daily
flights from Heathrow to Moscow’s
Domodedovo Airport and St Petersburg’s
Pulkovo Airport. aeroflot.ru ba.com
When to go
While the Uniworld sailing runs May to
October, aim for the warmest part of the
year, between June and August.
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

ornate Edwardian garb, and will not consent
to a photograph.
“I’ve been in Hello magazine,” she sniffs.
“I don’t need you.” I later learn her story
from my shipmates: she dresses up in her
elaborate costumes daily, in the hope of
finding a wealthy husband among the
tourists who stop along the shore as part of
the cruises. This only intensifies her mystery
and my affection for her, and for Russia.
Later, I stop by yet another outdoor
accordionist. He’s playing a sad but familiar
charcoal-grey monument to the humble
working boatman, Igor decides that I need
to try every kind of vodka on the menu: each
one a stopka.
As one might predict, I stumble off to
bed, and wake up the next morning to an
excruciating headache. As I sleepwalk
to breakfast, I catch sight of Igor coming
down the hallway. He takes one look
at me, struggling to put one foot ahead
of the other. Then, and only then, does
Igor smile.
More info
russiatourism.ru/en
How to do it
UNIWORLD offers the Imperial
Waterways of Russia cruise, sailing on the
River Victoria, a 13-day itinerary which
alternates every two weeks between St
Petersburg-to-Moscow and Moscow-to-
St Petersburg. Prices start at £4,648 per
person, including meals, most excursions,
and wine with dinner. uniworld.com

118 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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120 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 KORE A
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS M A R K P E R R E N TAY L O R

BR ANDED ‘ KORE A’ S HAWAII’, JE JU SEE S MILLIONS OF MAINL ANDERS

FLOCK TO IT E ACH YE AR FOR ITS S TUNNING NATUR AL BE AUT Y A S
MUCH A S ITS MAN-MADE AT TR ACTIONS. BUT JE JU ’ S ISL ANDERS,
E SPECIALLY ITS WOMEN HAENYEO (FREE-DIVERS), SEE THE
HARD-EDGED BE AUT Y WITH DIFFERENT E YE S

April 2018 121

SOUTH KOREA

TA K I N G T H E P L U N G E
Kang Jung-ah pulls on her mask as she prepares for several hours’ work in the treacherous
waters of the East China Sea. As a free-diving haenyeo, she depends on little more than her
own strength and the watchfulness of her colleagues. Modern science sometimes helps the
team, whose members periodically restock the waters with sea cucumber auricularia (larva).

122 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SOUTH KOREA

April 2018 123

SOUTH KOREA

BOUNTY OF THE SEA

After several hours harvesting the seabed, haenyeos gather on the basalt shoreline to discuss
strategies, in an attempt to gather more high-value items such as abalone [marine snails].
Fishermen — sometimes husbands to the divers — stock the local market with various
popular varieties of fish, most notably the largehead hairtail.

124 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SOUTH KOREA

April 2018 125

SOUTH KOREA

A L L I N A D AY ’ S W O R K
In a lagoon south of Seongsan Ilchulbong, an elderly women harvests sea lettuce. A
modern-day haenyeo’s kit is minimal: mask, weighted belt, taewak float and net (once filled,
this can weigh up to 60kg). At the end of the day, and back in their civilian clothes, the
haeneyo scoop the golden roe out of the sea urchins.

126 natgeotraveller.co.uk
SOUTH KOREA

April 2018 127

SOUTH KOREA

A FEAST FOR THE EYES

Jeju’s cuisine sings with satisfying island notes: grilled saury, abalone (in
the classic Jeju dish chanbok tolsot pab), island vegetables for pori
bibimbap, and tilefish. As well as the seafood supplied by haenyeos and
fishermen, the island is particularly well known for its black pig, ring-neck
pheasant and horse meat — available at specialist restaurant Mawon,
where O Keum-hee works as a waitress.

128 natgeotraveller.co.uk
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 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

SPECTACULAR
Selangor
A FASCINATING CULTURE, LONG HISTORY AND
ABUNDANCE OF NATURAL WONDERS MAKE SELANGOR,
ON THE WEST COAST OF MALAYSIA, AN INSPIRING
DESTINATION, AND ONE THAT BEGS TO BE DISCOVERED.
WE’VE PICKED OUT A FEW SITES NOT TO BE MISSED

1 2
KAMPUNG KUANTAN
FIREFLIES PARK
Take a boat out across
the lagoon of this nature
park at dusk and you’ll find
yourself surrounded by
thousands of dancing specks
of light. These tiny fireflies
perform their very own
natural light show, seeming
to blink in unison — an
otherworldly experience.
NICKELODEON
LOST LAGOON
Once the kids are
cultured out, let them loose
in Asia’s first Nickelodeon-
themed adventure
playground. Set among 10
acres of lush rainforest and
offering enormous water
rides, meandering pathways
and cascading waterfalls, it’s
the ideal family day out.

3
SEKINCHAN PADDY FIELDS
Known as the rice bowl of Malaysia,

Selangor’s paddy fields stretch as far
as the eye can see. Hiring a bicycle is one of
the best ways to take it all in, and be sure to
look out for snaking canals, tropical birds, and
farmers working the land. Plus, several paddy-
processing factories allow free visits — a
unique insight into the rice-making process.
4
MAH MERI CULTURAL VILLAGE
This museum preserves an ancient
way of life. The Mah Meri people are
famed for their woodcarving and dramatic
masks, worn during dance rituals. The on-
site museum has an impressive display of
Mah Meri art, while the restaurant offers a
Malaysian buffet prepared by the villagers.

5
BLUE MOSQUE
A vast blue dome paired with the
world’s tallest minarets make the Sultan
Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque — also
known as the Blue Mosque — a wonder to
behold. Inside, light filtering through the dome
bathes the hall in a blue glow, and this spiritual
sanctuary also houses nine Islamic art galleries.

tourismselangor.my
discover selangor
tourismselangor
 City life
MUMBAI
While its Victorian architecture nods heavily at its past,
Mumbai is in the full flush of 21st-century optimism and
thriving in its modern incarnation
WORDS: Chris Leadbeater

132 natgeotraveller.co.uk
IMAGE: ALAMY

April 2018 133

MUMBAI

134 natgeotraveller.co.uk

A Updating history // The
s overbearing remnants of British
colonial rule go, the Gateway of India
is particularly ridiculous. It’s so epic,
so pompous, hogging the waterfront on
Strand Road, that I have to remind myself
it salutes one single second — George V’s
first footstep on Indian soil, in 1911. Its self-
importance is amplified by the chiselled
inscription which records the sacred year
in Roman numerals (MCMXI) — and by the
fact that, though the moment was fleeting,
the crafting of this triumphal arch was not. It
wouldn’t be completed until 1924.
Standing next to it in the slanting
4pm sun, I find myself wondering if the
predominantly domestic tourists gathered
here in vast numbers know what they’re
admiring. I chew at this thought, not as a Brit
abroad, fretting patronisingly over a distant
shard of his nation’s story, but because the
unfailingly gleeful mood — all smiling
selfies and family photos — apparently fails
to grasp that the monument is effectively
a statement of possession, cut in stone by
a foreign power. And then it dawns on me.
They know. And don’t care. For the Gateway
of India has been naturalised. It’s no longer
British. It’s a feted landmark in an Indian
city, and is celebrated as a local hero — with
all the Instagram fervour that requires.
You could say the same of Mumbai.
A city that was seized in childhood by
the Portuguese, and raised by the stern
hand of the British Raj, is now, in the full
flush of adulthood, gloriously, superbly,
unquestionably Indian — a cauldron of 22
million people with dreams as big as the
sky. True, it doesn’t have the tech gleam
of Bangalore, nor the modern architecture
of Hyderabad, and remains, in many ways,
defined by the structures its overlords built
in the 19th century. But it’s also busy, vibrant,
cool, the Bollywood metropolis — a young
IMAGES: GETTY
man in his grandfather’s clothes, pulling off
the look as ‘retro-chic’.
Beyond the Gateway of India, The Taj
Mahal Palace is proof of this. On first, second
MUMBAI
and 777th impressions, it resembles the type
of project that might have been dreamed up
in a smoky Westminster antechamber when Gateway of India has been
Victoria was still on the throne. But it is, in
every square inch, an Indian creation naturalised. It’s no longer
— opened in 1903 by the Gujurati
industrialist Jamsetji Tata, reputedly in
British. It’s a feted landmark
response to his being denied entry to the in an Indian city, and is
‘whites only’ Watson’s Hotel, a mile to
the north. In the 115 subsequent years, it’s celebrated as a local hero
become an icon — an emblem of Indian
silver service whose main staircase is one
— with all the Instagram
of the wonders of the city which frames it, fervour that requires
ascending to the upper rooms with the grace
of incense rising in a cathedral. To climb up
these steps, where a century of guests have
walked, feels like some sort of pilgrimage.
The Taj’s status as an Indian superstar
was one of the reasons why it was caught up
in the terror attack on the metropolis, on 26
November 2008, by Pakistani jihadi group
Lashkar-e-Taiba. This brutal act killed 164
people across the city; a coordinated atrocity,
pinned to the ongoing tension between
India and Pakistan over the border region
of Kashmir, which targeted sites of national
fame for maximum impact. The majority
of the deaths were at Chhatrapati Shivaji
Terminus, the main rail station, which was
assaulted in the evening twilight — but 31
guests and staff died as gunmen barged into
the hotel lobby.
The Taj doesn’t attempt to cover up what
happened — a marble plaque alongside the
check-in desks remembers the victims
— but it’s also moved on with admirable
calmness. Its ground-floor Harbour Bar
— the oldest licensed drinking hole in
Mumbai, dating to 1933 — is a fashionable
oasis, proffering cocktails such as the
Way To Heaven, which splices tequila,
lemon, ginger and chilli into a spicy whole.
Second-floor restaurant Wasabi extends
the glamour theme over sushi and soy. The PREVIOUS PAGE: People on
dishes it serves may be stylishly Japanese, Chowpatty Beach
but the view from its windows is pure India. FROM LEFT: The Gateway of India;
I become distracted by the lights twinkling Harbour Bar at the Taj Mahal Palace
April 2018 135
MUMBAI

along the shore — a conurbation of movie

stars, money men and merchants, at play in
the gloaming.
If this sounds a little too refined for
a city which also knows the depths of
poverty, you don’t have to go far to find a
more visceral Mumbai. No more than two
blocks, in fact. When I amble south of The
Taj the next morning, I stumble into Colaba
— a marketplace blur of a district where
the everyday is sliced, chopped, weighed,
perused and sold. On Lala Nigam Road,
chickens squawk and flap in miniscule cubed
cages as their friends are hacked to pieces on
adjacent slabs — with such forceful blows of
the cleaver that I fear the blood will splatter
the bright fabric of the saris on display in the
garment stores directly opposite. None of
the shoppers seem too worried, though — for
this is their home at its most authentic. As
is the picture which awaits me a few hours
later, three miles north, on Chowpatty Beach,
Mumbai’s citizens taking to its prime strip
of sand on a Sunday afternoon to laugh, talk,
play music through smartphones, and gobble
ice creams from the Bachelorr’s stall on the
pavement promenade — an institution that’s
been in action since 1940, thanks partly to its
dispensing of frozen flavours as interesting
as green chilli and ginger.
Immediately behind, packed with
passengers, trains rumble north into the
past. The name Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
is another example of Mumbai’s reclaiming
of its own yesterdays — but it began life in
1887 as Victoria Terminus, a grandstanding
shard of British transportation
infrastructure which, even now, seems
scarcely to have advanced beyond its year
of birth. Strong pillars soar to vaulted
ceiling. A wall of ticket windows, like a row
of portholes on an ocean liner, preserves
the booking rituals of the 19th century in
the 21st. Departures boards identify their
destinations — Goa, Thiruvananthapuram,
Kochi — with a restless, audible, click and
tick. And as with the Gateway of India,
modern Mumbai swirls through and around
it, heading to work, a constant flurry of
commuters that somehow never collides
with itself. Instead, everybody spills outside,
passing further colonial relics — the
Municipal Corporation Building (City Hall)
and its echoes of 1893; Churchgate Station,
where ‘tiffin boys’ loiter by their bicycles,
ready to deliver lunches to the time-pressed
occupants of the offices in the neighbouring
streets; Bombay High Court, which is
so focused on delivering justice that it’s
forgotten to update its Raj title.
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

Nearing the latter, my eyes are drawn

again to the image of Virat Kohli. The Indian
cricket captain is a striking figure — bearded,
brown-eyed, equipped with a piercing gaze,
which he has used to stare down opposition
bowlers in his three years at the helm of the

136 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 MUMBAI

April 2018 137

MUMBAI
Dirty washing // Not
everything, of course, is
so slick. To drive through
Mahalaxmi is to espy Dhobi
Ghat — the giant outdoor
laundry where Mumbai has
long washed its linen
PREVIOUS CLOCKWISE: Colaba
Causeway Mumbai is a wonderland of
trinkets; Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus;
a man sells pastries in the market at
Colaba Causeway
FROM LEFT: The Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link
Bridge, also known as the Bandra-Worli
Sea Link; People playing cricket in the
central park at Mumbai
NEXT PAGE: Pav Bhaji roadside
restaurant in Mumbai
138 natgeotraveller.co.uk
national team. The same hawk-like glance
beams down from the billboard where he’s
advertising a brand of motor oil — as much
a guarantee of sales as Tendulkar, Dravid,
Dhoni and his other predecessors in the role;
almost as much of a god in the contemporary
India as any deity worshipped in its Hindu
temples. He’s present, too, opposite the
High Court — in spirit at least — on Oval
Maidan. Here, on Mumbai’s largest green
lung, two teams are staging a match which,
despite its park informality, is being fought
with a competitive edge that Kohli would
appreciate — all hostile bouncers and
frantic running between the wickets. This
seriousness is also an emblem of sorts, of the
way India’s taken what was once a genteel
colonial diversion, and turned it into a sport
at which it’s a world leader. Appropriately,
England’s last tour of the country (in 2016)
resulted in a 4-0 Test series defeat (including
a thrashing by an innings in Mumbai) — but
it’s in sub-continental cash and glitz that this
pastime of Surrey village greens has truly
been transformed. Based at the very heart of
town in the Wankhede Stadium, the Mumbai
Indians are one of the most popular clubs in
the Indian Premier League (IPL) — an annual
bonanza of city-versus-city showdowns which
attracts huge viewing figures and the planet’s
top players on fat wages.
The roar of the crowd washes over the city
on game days — the tournament takes place
in April and May — but the IPL isn’t the only
combination of rupees and razzle-dazzle
which informs life in Mumbai. Travelling
up the west flank of a city, which hangs
down its peninsula like a stalactite from a
cave roof, I tumble into gilded Bandra. Here,
the Taj Lands End offers a similar five-star
experience to its sibling further south
— while the Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link Bridge,
more commonly known as Bandra-Worli Sea
Link, conquers the depths of Mahim Bay
in a way no colonial regime ever managed
to achieve. In its shadow, the stars of
Bollywood secrete themselves in palatial
homes — celebrities such as Shahrukh
Khan and Salman Khan have owned houses
here. A crowd has gathered at one point,
observing, from discreet range, a film
shoot being conducted on the waterline; an
actress filming a commercial. The cluster of
extended arms, hands brandishing phones,
mimics a small, swaying forest.
Not everything, of course, is so slick. To
drive through Mahalaxmi is to espy Dhobi
Ghat — the giant outdoor laundry where
Mumbai has long washed its dirty linen, men
labouring beneath a fierce sun, beating bed
sheets and tailored shirts dry on the edges of
the washing pools. These are the left-behind,
the economic underclass who share nothing
in common with the city’s Bollywood pin-ups
and cricket legends but the air they breathe.
A clear cause for obvious concern, Anjali
Tolani says, when I meet her at Soam, an
eatery specialising in gourmet street food, in
Chowpatty. “Bombay has changed in the last 15
years,” she reveals, deliberately using the city’s
Raj-era name, which was dropped in 1995.
“The skyline has changed, the personality
has changed. New buildings are going up, old
ones are coming down. There’s more of an
edge than a few years ago, and a little more
crime. That’s what happens when finance and
affluence come in. There used to be a place for
everyone, no matter their income. Now people
are being pushed to the fringes.”
A guide with a detailed knowledge of
Mumbai’s gastronomic scene, she sounds,
briefly, despondent — but dispels any
negativity with a tour that picks out some
of the city’s culinary gems. Soam travels to
northerly Indian state Gujarat for much of
its inspiration, doling out dhokla (steamed
lentils in a rice parcel) and ghughra (a pasty
filled with peas) in bite-sized portions. Kyani
& Co, in Dhobitalao, sources its soul much
further afield, as one of the last remaining
IMAGES: GETTY
Parsee cafes which catered to the city’s
Iranian immigrant workforce. Contemporary
tastes hardly intrude on a menu heavy on
mutton salli boti (a rich stew) and mawa cake
 MUMBAI

April 2018 139

MUMBAI

(a soft sponge with a cardamom tang) — yet ‘friends have been urging me to write to Dhobi Ghat 1 Mile
even here, there are concessions. ‘Dear you for the sake of humanity,’ and begs
customer,’ advises a message planted under ‘your forgiveness, if I have erred in writing MUMBAI

S E A
the glass of the table tops, ‘the use of laptops to you’. What would such a force for good
is prohibited. Please do not sit for a long time make of the Mumbai of 2018? Perhaps he Gamdevi
Harbour
after refreshment.’ would be bemused by the impetuousness CHOWPATTY
Firm, but polite. Mumbai has seen this of its youth, zipping through town BEACH
Dhobitalao
Back

A R A B I A N
before. Over in leafy Gamdevi, Mani Bhavan on motorbikes in skinny jeans but no Chhatrapati Shivaji
Bay
was the home of Mahatma Gandhi from 1917 helmets. Maybe he would be enthralled by Terminus
Oval Maidan
to 1934 — the quiet space where he finessed its National Gallery of Modern Art, where Gateway
his doctrine of non-violent resistance to paintings by Indian masters Vasudeo of India
colonial governance. Now a museum, the Gaitonde and Akbar Padamsee hold equal Taj Mahal
property lays bare the general positivity of prominence with pieces by Pablo Picasso. Colaba Palace Hotel INDIA
the great man’s thinking, including a framed Or perhaps he would simply grin at the Mumbai
copy of a letter he penned to Hitler on the progress of a metropolis whose essential
eve of war in 1939 — which explains that optimism is infectious.

ESSENTIALS
Getting there & around
There are three direct services to Chhatrapati
Shivaji International Airport from the UK.
Air India, British Airways and Jet Airways all
fly from Heathrow. airindia.com ba.com
jetairways.com
FLIGHT TIME: 10 hours
The Mumbai Metro is a work in progress.
It may comprise up to 10 lines by the end of
the next decade — but only one is currently
operational. The six-line Mumbai Suburban
Railway is currently the fastest way around
the metropolis. However, it can be hideously
crowded. Taxis are plentiful, and easily hailed
— although the pace of traffic is often extremely
slow. reliancemumbaimetro.com
mumbailifeline.com

When to go
Cooled by coastal breezes, Mumbai is largely
pleasant in summer (April-June) at around 27C,
and colder but still enjoyable in winter (October-
March) from around 20C. It’s best avoided
between July and September, when monsoon
season douses it in three months of heavy rain.

Places mentioned
Bachelorr’s. bachelorrs.com
Mani Bhavan. gandhi-manibhavan.org
National Gallery of Modern Art. ngmaindia.gov.in
Soam. facebook.com/soamrestaurant
Taj Lands End. tajhotels.com
Taj Mahal Palace. tajhotels.com

More information
tourism.gov.in
incredibleindia.org
maharashtratourism.gov.in
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

British citizens need a visa to visit India. One-year

tourist visas cost from £120.44 per person,
including online processing fee.
vfsglobal.com/India/UK

How to do it
COX & KINGS offers a four-night stay at The
Taj Mahal Palace from £1,335 per person on
a B&B basis, including international flights. It
also offers an 11-day ‘Maharashtra Wild Trail’
luxury train trip which starts and ends in Mumbai,
from £4,435 per person, with flights.
coxandkings.co.uk

140 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
PARADISE FOUND
PARADISE ISLAND VILLAS IS AN INNOVATIVE BOUTIQUE
HOTEL IN CRETE, COMPRISING 12 BESPOKE VILLAS AND
STUNNING COMMUNAL AMENITIES
F
or those wanting to take the concept of
personal luxury one step further, the majestic
island of Crete holds the answer, in the form of
Paradise Island Villas — an innovative boutique villa
hotel redefining the boundaries of what’s possible.
CONCEPT
Discreetly tucked away in the coastal town of
Anissaras, near Hersonissos, Paradise Island Villas
lies just 14 miles from Heraklion’s airport, yet it
could be a world away. Within the development’s
lush landscaped grounds, the purity and silence of
the air creates a fitting ambience for 12 individually
designed villas, with the charm of a family-run
boutique villa hotel. Supporting these self-
contained properties are carefully orchestrated
communal amenities, encapsulated by the stunning
swimming pool with an open-sided lounge beside it.
The Ambrosia restaurant, named after the ancient
Greek term for the food of the gods, uses the finest
local produce to combine Mediterranean and
Greek cuisine within an opulent environment. Much
more than just a five-star resort, Paradise Island
Villas offers a complete lifestyle service to guests,
where nothing is too much trouble. Customer
service is perfectly balanced — attentive and
comprehensive, yet discreet and personalised.
COLLECTION
The centrepiece is the collection of villas. Each
named after a Greek gods, these private pool villas
affords modern amenities and has been furnished
and decorated by the development’s owners
— every accessory has a story and every room
enjoys its own unique personality. Comfort and
privacy are never compromised, and the end result
is 12 completely bespoke properties, reflecting
Cretan architecture yet integrating every modern
convenience guests could hope for, from Italian
crystal chandeliers to high-speed wi-fi and custom-
made mattresses.
APPRECIATION
Guests’ appreciation of the finer things in life
underlines how compelling this boutique resort’s
charms really are, offering glowing testimonies and
positive feedback.
CONTACT DETAILS
Paradise Island Villas
Anissaras, 70014 Hersonissos, Crete, Greece
T: +30 28 9702 2893, +30 28 9702 3793
F: +30 28 9702 1655
W: paradiseislandvillas.gr
E: info@paradiseislandvillas.gr
142 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 City life
BORDEAUX
Bordeaux had long been France’s Sleeping Beauty, snoozing
in its southwestern corner. But after years of sprucing up,
the wine capital of the world is wide-awake and ready for a
close-up. WORDS: Connor McGovern
H
ere in front of me at Le Boutique
Hôtel, in his crisp black and white
uniform, Rémi is pouring three
mystery French reds into glasses. “First,” he
says, waving his hands around like a sorcerer,
“you need to take in the aromas, to smell
the bouquet.” He raises a glass to his nose,
swirling the garnet-coloured wine and taking
audible sniffs. “What do you think?” he asks,
urging me to take a sip. I’m no expert; any
conclusions I come to are very much aided
by his encouraging nods and suggestions.
But, with every sip of the heady reds I begin
to taste what he’s preaching. There are
hints of plum and cherry, and somewhere
woodiness, blackberry, cinnamon. I quickly
become just as engrossed as he is. He places
the glass down and beams with pride. “C’est
magnifique, non?”
La Grosse Cloche
IMAGE: DAVID BACHER
It’s difficult not to get as enthused as Remi
NEXT PAGE, CLOCKWISE
about wine in this city; it is, after all, soaked
FROM LEFT: Miroir d’eau
in front of the Place de
into its very fabric. Wine has been produced
la Bourse; canelés in in Bordeaux since the first century when the
Baillardran; restaurant on Romans arrived, and the local obsession has
Place Fernand Lafargue never stopped. Throughout Bordeaux’s rich
ZZ
Z
history, wine has remained a constant mark
of the city’s wealth and success. And as the
world’s largest exporter, things don’t seem to
be changing — the region corks more than 750
million bottles every year. The English have
played a part in it all, too. Centuries ago, they
became hooked on Bordeaux’s wines and have
been in a long-distance relationship with the
city ever since.
But these days, Bordeaux no longer rests
on its prestigious, full-bodied laurels. After
decades of serious sprucing up, the city is
one of France’s greatest happy-ever-afters,
emerging from a provincial, increasingly tatty
cocoon, to become an outward-looking, shiny
modern capital. Life is good here; you don’t
need to look much further than the riverside
flaneurs, vibrant arts scene, and the clink of
cutlery on porcelain in its feted restaurants
to realise it for yourself. The joie de vivre
seems so inherent that it’s hard to imagine
Bordeaux was once a byword in France for
old-fashioned, bourgeois stuffiness. Need
proof? Even Parisians are saying adieu to the
capital and setting up here instead.
April 2018 143
BORDEAUX
SEE & DO
LA CITÉ DU VIN: Opened in 2016, the
city’s new museum is a celebration of wine’s
longstanding role in culture and society
around the world. The Cité’s interactive
exhibits are first class, with sensory
workshops to fully immerse visitors in the
wonders of wine. There are often temporary
exhibitions running, as well as a shop on the
ground floor selling wines from producers
far and wide. Your entrance ticket also
entitles you to a drink at the panoramic bar
on the eighth floor. laciteduvin.com
MUSÉE D’AQUITAINE: The region’s flagship
museum is a deep delve into the history of
Bordeaux and the Aquitaine region. The
story starts with pre-history and its sizeable
selection of artefacts, through Roman
antiquity and the Renaissance, all the way to
the modern day. Of note is the focus on the
city’s heyday in the 18th century, juxtaposed
with its role at the heart of France’s history of
the slave trade. musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.fr
144 natgeotraveller.co.uk
PLACE DE LA BOURSE: Versailles-like in its
size, grandeur and symmetry, the former
customs house and adjoining square have
together become an unofficial emblem of the
city. In front is the Miroir d’eau, an enormous
rectangle that every 15 minutes transforms
into the world’s largest splash pool — and
vanity mirror for the reflected Place de la
Bourse. It’s quite a sight.
SAINT-ÉMILION: If the world-renowned
wines of Saint-Émilion don’t draw you out
of Bordeaux and up to this satellite village,
then the place itself should. Just a short
train ride from the city, Saint-Émilion is
achingly pretty with its monolithic church
and medieval heart, full of winding cobbled
streets and hanging baskets. Along with
the local bottles of red, a box of delicious
coconut macaroons is a village speciality.
saint-emilion-tourisme.com/uk
MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS AND DESIGN:
Splendidly furnished to emulate the designs
of the French aristocracy, this elegant
museum in an old mansion is a fascinating
insight into the colourful, multi-textured
world of the homes and galleries of
Bordeaux’s bygone era. madd-bordeaux.fr
TOUR PEY-BERLAND: The peal of the cathedral
bell isn’t coming from the Cathédrale Saint-
André itself, as its two towers were never
supposed to house a bell. The bell actually
chimes from the beautiful Pey-Berland bell
tower next door, and if you can manage it,
climb to the top to be rewarded with the best
IMAGES: DAVID BACHER; BORDEAUX TOURISME
views in the whole city.
pey-berland.fr/en
LE TRIANGLE: Roughly bound by three
thoroughfares around the Marché des
Grands Hommes, Bordeaux’s most
sophisticated quarter can rival anything in
Paris. Amble down the elegant 18th-century,
tree-skirted avenues before taking a peek
inside the truly spectacular Grand Théâtre,
standing proudly on the Place de la Comédie.
Join the locals in a kerbside aperitif and bask
in this infectious way of life.
 BORDEAUX

Sizeable streets // Bordeaux

lays claim to Europe’s longest
pedestrianised street, the
rue Sainte-Catherine (seven
miles), and also its largest
square, the enormous Place
des Quinconces

Z SLEEP
ZZ
MAMA SHELTER: Bold, bright and
even a little brash, the Bordeaux branch of
the Mama Shelter chain offers great value for
money, right in the heart of the city. Head up
to the rooftop bar, a favourite watering hole
with the locals, for refreshing house cocktails
and standout views. mamashelter.com
HOTEL DE TOURNY: Just a short stroll
from the lovely Jardin Public, this is a
relaxed, intimate affair spread across three
floors of a smart townhouse. Rooms are
fresh, minimalist and display a dash of
antique charm. For a luxurious alternative,
book one of the suites in the building a few
doors down. hoteldetourny.com
YNDO HOTEL: This former mansion
in a quiet street retains all its regal charm,
decked out with sumptuous furniture
in rather appropriate tones of claret and
plum. Be sure to luxuriate in the spacious
and tranquil rooms, but tear yourself away
for breakfast on the shady, flowery terrace
downstairs. yndohotelbordeaux.fr

EAT
RUE DE LA VIEILLE TOUR: Start with
a salad for lunch at Møna then tuck into
a creamy dune blanche (pastry) from Chez
Pascal, or, for a real taste of Bordeaux, a
traditional canelé from Baillardran, the
squidgy little treats fragrant with vanilla and
rum. Finish it all off with a coffee at expert
roasters L’Alchimiste.
TOQUE & BROC: Come here for generous,
delicious plates, surrounded by shelves of
vintage curios, from salvaged signs to copper
coffee pots. The best bit is that you can snap
up the decorations between courses — it’s
nearly all for sale. T: 00 33 5 5777 8964.
UNE CUISINE EN VILLE: Unassuming
from the outside, chef Philippe Lagraula’s
humbly named ‘Kitchen in the City’ feels
just as laid-back on the inside. Beautiful,
cleverly-crafted dishes include a delicious
cod ceviche, pigeon breast main, and a
rhapsody of a raspberry dessert.
une-cuisine-en-ville.com

April 2018 145

BORDEAUX

LIKE A LOCAL
MARCHÉ DES CAPUCINS: The ‘belly
of Bordeaux’ has earned its nickname for
good reason; six days a week the rather ugly
market building conceals a bastion of food
and drink whose scale and quality is the best
in Bordeaux. Virtually the whole city does its
shopping here. marchedescapucins.com
DARWIN: This collection of impressively
revamped warehouses and hangars in
the Bastide includes the likes of a small
farm and skate park. If you’re no good
with a skateboard, then join the Bordelais
(Bordeaux’s residents) and stop for lunch at
Le Magasin Général, a funky emporium full
of locally grown grub. darwin.camp
CAFÉ PIHA: This cool cafe breathes life into
an old imprimerie (printing shop) on rue
des Ayres; the owner tells me the chilled
Antipodean vibe comes from his experience
brewing in New Zealand. Check out the
coffee roastery at the back before dropping
into a comfy chair with a hot drink or their
homemade citronnade. cafepiha.com

AFTER HOURS
AUX QUATRE COINS DU VIN: A huge array
of wines from every wine-growing region
in France is on offer at this chic bar off the
Place du Parlement St Pierre. There will be
a wine for you here, but if you don’t know
where to start, an astute and helpful team of
sommeliers is on hand to guide you to a bottle
with your name on it. aux4coinsduvin.com
CHEZ FRED: Come dusk, locals quickly fill
the tables at this popular bar on the Place du
Palais. It’s all about the atmosphere — grab a
glass of whatever you fancy and soak up the
vibe, from the gregarious students ignoring
their deadlines to the golden majesty of the
Porte Cailhau tower as their backdrop.
T: 00 33 6 6427 4040.
LA GUINGUETTE CHEZ ALRIQ: On the banks of
the river in the Bastide district, Chez Alriq
has a whiff of carefree summer holidays
about it. It’s a foot-tappingly good locals’
favourite in the summer, with great food and
drink served under twinkling lanterns, and
plenty of live music for dancing the night
away. laguinguettechezalriq.com
IMAGES: DAVID BACHER; ALAMY

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: La Cité du Vin (wine museum);

inside the Café Piha; Darwin; coffee in L’Alchimiste

146 natgeotraveller.co.uk
BORDEAUX

April 2018 147

BORDEAUX

BUY bookshop on the rue des Ayres adding to

CHARTRONS: The former wine
merchants’ district is now Bordeaux’s
premier des res. Many of the wide, cavernous
chais (street-level storerooms) once used
for storing wine are now the haunts of
antique merchants and dealers. Head to the
riverfront here on Sundays, too, for a food
market packed with local produce.
LA NUIT DES ROIS: They ran out of space
on the bookshelves here a long time ago.
Rue Saige Nevertheless, it hasn’t stopped this tiny
its collection, from old editions of Jules
Verne’s work to the most obscure of Asterix’s
animated tales. There are plenty of tomes in
English, too. la-nuit-des-rois.fr
CÔTÉ SAVEURS: For the best souvenirs, head
to this épicerie fine, where a mouth-watering
array of high-quality produce will leave you
spoilt for choice. Pick from the likes of aged
cheeses, artisan pasta, liqueurs, local snails,
biscuits, caviar, and of course, plenty of wine.
cote-saveurs-bordeaux.fr

Cité du Vin ESSENTIALS

F RAN C E Chartrons Getting there & around When to go
Launched in 2017, the TGV L’Océane runs between Spring is seasonably mild but occasionally wet, with
IMAGE: DAVID BACHER. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

Bordeaux
e Paris and Bordeaux, taking just over two hours. summer easily hitting 30C and higher. Early autumn
nn
ro Return tickets from London to Bordeaux (via Paris) offers a happy medium, with long days, balmy
a

start from £111. British Airways, EasyJet and Ryanair temperatures as well as the wine harvest.
G

Darwin fly direct to Bordeaux from London airports, and

BORDEAUX
Flybe and Air France from Birmingham, from £20 one
More info
way. voyages-sncf.com ba.com easyjet.com
Place de
Place de
Bastide ryanair.com flybe.com airfrance.com
bordeaux-tourism.co.uk
la Comédie
la Bourse The UNESCO-listed centre is largely car-free, and
St André Centre easy to discover on foot but there’s also an extensive How to do it
Cathedral Rue des Ayres bus and tram system. A Metropole Citypass is GRAPE ESCAPES offers the Essential Bordeaux tour,
Musée de worthwhile if you’re planning to cover ground — it visiting three or six chateaux (depending on tour
l’Aquitaine includes free travel and entry to a number of sights length), with wine tasting and transfers between the
Marché — and costs €29 (£25) for 24 hours, €39 (£34) for 48 city and chateaux, from £470 per person, excluding
500 yards
des Capucins
hours or €43 (£38) for 72 hours. infotbm.com/en travel and accommodation. grapeescapes.net

148 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

LIVE IT UP IN

LISBON

TAKE FIVE
After a busy day enjoying Lisbon’s sights,
relax in the Tivoli Spa, a secluded sanctuary
of calm at the heart of the hotel. Book the
signature Tivoli Fusion massage, which
FOR AN ELEGANT BOLTHOLE IN THE HEART OF THE CITY, combines essential oils and unique pressure
LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THE TIVOLI AVENIDA LIBERDADE movements to ease aching muscles. Start the
day with laps in the outdoor pool, or keep up
your exercise routine at the state-of-the-art
CITY CHIC Shape Club. For some R&R in the bustle of
Step in from the bustling Avenida da the city, there’s no better place to stay.
Liberdade and an oasis of contemporary
cool awaits. Modern yet exuding old-school
grandeur, the stylish lobby is crowned with a
spectacular glass dome, bathing the rich-
toned furnishings in natural light. It’s a nod to
this historic hotel’s iconic status. But now with
an extensive revamp, its 285 rooms and suites
offer extra space and unparalleled comfort.

ROOMS WITH A VIEW

Take a seat at one of the first-class dining
options: Terraço Rui Paula, for sophisticated
takes on national cuisine, or Cervejaria
Liberdade, where sublime seafood dishes are
on the menu. Don’t forget to call in at the Sky
Bar, one of Lisbon’s prime watering holes; with
live music and al fresco seating, it’s the perfect
spot to enjoy a sundowner over the city.

Discover more of Tivoli Avenida

Liberdade at tivolihotels .com
 ASK THE
EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP?
ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL
GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…

Q // I’m taking a short
trip to Bolivia. What
can I fit into two
weeks?
Two weeks will allow plenty
of time to explore Bolivia’s
highlights: the sapphire waters of
Lake Titicaca; the extraordinary
capital city of La Paz; and the
dazzling Uyuni salt flats. With
some careful planning you could
incorporate the subtropical
lowlands of Santa Cruz to embark
on either the Ruta Che, an
incredibly scenic road tracing the
route of Che Guevara’s last stand,
or follow an intriguing Jesuit
Mission circuit.
Given that many of these
destinations are at a high altitude
(around 12,000ft above sea level),
it’s essential to allow days in your
itinerary to rest, and to help you
acclimatise gradually.
highway opening in June, linking
the eastern and western ranges of
the Andes, from Tupiza to Uyuni,
reaching the world’s biggest salt
flat has never been easier.
Journey Latin America offers
two two-week holidays in
Bolivia — Zampullin: Vistas of
Bolivia group tour, 13 days from
£2,950 per person; and Signature
Bolivia: Final Frontier private
holiday, 14 days from £3,994 per
person. journeylatinamerica.co.uk
LAURA RENDELL-DUNN
Bolivia has so much to offer,
and has evolved with tourism
over the years, but still remains
true to its original culture and
traditions. One of the most
stopping for unique photos along
the way, before staying overnight
at the Jukil Community Lodge,
where you can get immersed in
the community that specializes in
quinoa production.
La Paz has a lot to offer for
those looking for a culinary
experience, and is renowned in
the region for its nightlife. Spend
some time exploring the winding
streets, pick up a few textiles
at the shops and visit the
Witches’ Market.
To get off the beaten track, take
a short flight to Rurrenabaque,
the gateway to the Amazon jungle
and pampas tours. Here caimans,
capybaras, pink river dolphins
and anacondas can be spotted.
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY

Bolivia’s roads and air
networks are constantly
improving; in fact, only this
month, we’ve heard that a new
flight will connect Sucre with
Uyuni; and thanks to a new
popular attractions is the salt
flats in the south. You can travel
on the Bolivia Discovery tour
with G Adventures (from £999
per person) and spend four days
travelling across the white desert,
G Adventures is expanding its
trip options to include both
National Geographic Journeys
and 18-To-Thirtysomethings
intineraries for 2019.
gadventures.com EMILY MIKUS

150 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Q // My case was Airlines are responsible for
damage (plus loss or delay) to your
damaged by an airline.
What are my rights?
luggage, but liability is limited,
and can be complicated. First
of all, you’re more likely to get
compensation the earlier you file
the claim — some airlines have a
seven-day rule — so reporting the
problem straight away upon
arrival at the airport gives
you better a chance. Filling
out a Property Irregularity
Report (PIR) at the
relevant luggage handling
Q // What are the best Food has always been one of the
best ways of bringing families
cookery courses in the together, and learning to cook is
UK for families? a creative, useful and bonding
experience. Chewton Glen is
home to the kitchen where James
Martin learnt his craft , and I love
it for its luxurious yet relaxed,
child-friendly vibes. Set on the
edge of the New Forest, it has a
spa and acres of beautiful gardens
to explore, plus the added bonus
of being a short walk from the
beach. Head chef Rob Cottam
runs the cookery courses and is a
knowledgeable teacher. You’ll find
independent classes for junior
cooks and teen chefs covering
dishes from soufflés to sushi, as
well as baking courses for the
counter can also help you fight
your case, too, although it’s not
a legal requirement. If you’re
flying with more than one airline,
it’s usually the final airline that’s
responsible for loss or damage.
If it’s your cabin baggage that’s
damaged, you only have the right
to claim if it’s directly the airline’s
fault. For luggage in the hold,
you have the legal right to claim
compensation from the airline for
losses up to a maximum of £1,150.
caa.co.uk TAMSIN WRESSELL
whole family. You can pick herbs
from the greenhouse and fruits
and vegetables from the kitchen
gardens, but when it comes to
creating the recipes there’s plenty
of expert handholding. Classes
start from £45 per person.
If you’re interested in learning
new skills, the Swinton Cookery
School, set on an imposing
country estate in the Yorkshire
Dales, comes complete with
modern spa and rustic tree
lodges. It has children’s school
holiday programmes that
promote healthy eating with
good, homemade treats too.
Classes start at £50 per person.
chewtonglen.com
swintonestate.com LILY BARCLAY
health corner
Q // UVA, UVB... which of
the sun’s rays are the most
damaging to skin?
The two main types of UV
(ultraviolet) rays are UVA and
UVB, and both damage the skin,
which can lead to skin cancer.
UVB is the culprit behind most
sunburn; UVA penetrates deep
into the skin, ageing rather than
burning it. Don’t wait to see red:
the damage can happen long
before you can see or feel it.
RISK: Cells damaged by UV rays
are at greater risk of mutating
and dividing, leading to cancer.
PREVENTION: Use a sunscreen
with an SPF of at least 30, and
high UVA protection (at least four
of a possible five-star rating), and
reapply every two hours.
PLANE SPEAKING: Like travelling
in a window seat? UVA can
penetrate window glass, and
refl ects powerfully off clouds/
snow fi elds. So for extra
protection slap on the
sunscreen next time you fl y.
SARAH BARRELL

THE EXPERTS
Q // Can I get With a little travel leg-work, both Russia
and the FIFA World Cup are hugely LAURA RENDELL-DUNN //
tickets for the accessible. “The next phase of ticket DESTINATION SPECIALIST,

World Cup in sales will last from 13 March to 3 April,” JOURNEY LATIN AMERICA

Russia this advises Manuel Robledano of travel agency

TravelBird. “They’ll be sold on a first-come- EMILY MIKUS // SOUTH
year? first-served basis, although there is a final AMERICA PRODUCT
MANAGER, G ADVENTURES
window to come, 18 April to 5 July.”
TravelBird estimates that an England fan
will spend at least £5,385 to follow their side LILY BARCLAY // FAMILY
all the way to the final. More realistically, EDITOR, BBC GOOD FOOD
seats for non-Russian spectators at
individual matches cost from US$105 (£75).
CHRIS LEADBEATER //
For those who do want to cheer on England, REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR,
Gullivers Sports Travel is selling a 10-night NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
trip that covers the three group fixtures. TRAVELLER (UK)
The price, from £3,999, includes all flights,
TAMSIN WRESSELL //
plus a hotel in St Petersburg, but guests ASSISTANT EDITOR,
must source their own tickets. They also NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
need a visa to enter Russia (from £70, plus TRAVELLER (UK)
£38.40 service fee). travelbird.com fifa.com
SARAH BARRELL //
gulliverstravel.co.uk CHRIS LEADBEATER ASSOCIATE EDITOR,
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
TRAVELLER (UK)

April 2018 151

TRAVEL GEEKS

THE INFO

CORAL REEF IVF

CORAL REEFS ARE THE JEWELS OF THE NATURAL WORLD, BUT THEY’RE
DISAPPEARING AT AN ALARMING RATE. NOW, SCIENTISTS ARE PIONEERING A
NEW TECHNIQUE TO SAVE THESE UNDERWATER MARVELS

The coral-saving
WHAT HAPPENS? technique was
pioneered by
Coral larvae are grown and
Australian marine
nurtured in tanks biologist Professor
Peter Harrison, who
first tried it out on a
Millions of these tiny larvae are damaged reef in the
then released onto damaged or Philippines
dying reefs

The larvae then settle on the reef

and develop into baby corals
Three years later, they can grow
to the size of a dinner plate
The future is bright
Three years after being fertilised, the coral
grows to a big enough size to sexually
reproduce by itself — good news for the new
technique

Did you know?

It’s feared that
In 2016, the Horniman Museum in south London was the

60%
first institution in the UK to successfully fertilise
captive coral ‘in-vitro’

of the world’s coral could die by 2038

Marine haven
Coral reefs cover only 0.2% of the
world’s seafloor but are home to around
25% of its marine life
Coral
gardening
A MORE WIDESPREAD,
ATTEMPT TO REVIVE
CORAL REEFS, BY
The ‘value’ of the Great Barrier Reef BREAKING APART
is estimated at around HEALTHY CORAL AND

$56 billion
TRANSPLANTING PARTS
OF IT ONTO DYING
REEFS TO PROMOTE
as it supports 64,000 direct GROWTH, PROVED LESS
and indirect jobs SUCCESSFUL

152 natgeotraveller.co.uk

IS TOURISM THREATENING ntarctica?
HOT TOPIC
THE WHITE CONTINENT IS SET TO SEE A BOOST IN VISITORS,
BUT WHAT DOES TOURISM MEAN FOR THE WORLD’S LAST
GREAT WILDERNESS? WORDS: JAMES DRAVEN
“Colour! That’s what I miss most,”
says a grad student researcher
at Palmer Station, oblivious to
the irony of the perfect double
rainbow that today frames the
US Antarctic Program outpost.
“When I last returned to the USA
and saw billboards and neon signs,
I was overwhelmed. You just don’t
see colour down here.”
Today I see plenty of colour.
Mostly orange. The day-glo orange
parkas of a group of cruise ship
visitors milling around what has to
be the world’s most southerly gift
shop, selling T-shirts and bumper
stickers in an array of lurid hues.
As isolated as it is, this research
station is clearly set up for tourist
arrivals, with tight-lipped senior
researchers acting as sales clerks,
while post-graduate students
enthusiastically talk to me about
the local insects.
Antarctica, the only continent
with no native population, is a
place for academic cooperation
between all nations: a place for
science. It’s also increasingly a
place for tourism.
Once the preserve of
researchers, whalers and polar
explorers, entrepreneur Lars-Eric
Lindblad pioneered tourist trips
to the White Continent by sea
in the 1960s. Today, 65 ships are
registered with the International
Association of Antarctica Tour
Operators (IAATO), and in the
2015-16 season there were 38,478
visitors, on tours that typically
lasted between 10-30 days.
AND ANOTHER THING... NEW LONG-HAUL ROUTES
WAY OUT WEST
Last month’s launch of Qantas’s
service from Heathrow to the
Western Australian city of Perth
IMAGES: GETTY
is the longest non-stop flight in
the world. Its fuel efficient 787
Dreamliners will cover 9,009
miles in 17 hours. qantas.com
Q&A
SO NOBODY OWNS ANTARCTICA?
The Antarctic Treaty of 1959
designated Antarctica as a
military-free zone, banning
nuclear tests and radioactive
waste disposal, and setting
aside disputes over territorial
sovereignty. However, some
scientists believe research bases
are there in part to earmark
territories for nations in the
event that Antarctica is ever
mined for its natural resources.
ARE THERE RULES TO PROTECT
ANTARCTICA FROM TOURISM?
Founded by seven private
tour operators in 1991,
IAATO promotes safe and
environmentally responsible
travel to the Antarctic by limiting
visitor numbers allowed ashore.
ARE THERE UPSIDES TO
ANTARCTIC TOURISM?
John Durban from NOAA says,
“There’s a great benefi t to taking
people to places like Antarctica
and hoping they return as
ambassadors for its future.”
WHAT ABOUT FISHING?
In December 2017, Antarctica’s
Ross Sea was protected from
commercial fishing for 35 years.
IS ANTARCTICA DOOMED?
When Starbucks arrives, yes.
SEYCHELLES SHORT HOP
British Airways has returned to
the Indian Ocean archipelago after
a 14-year hiatus. Flying twice-
weekly (March-October), the first
direct service to the Seychelles will
take 10 hours, rather than 13 via
the Middle East. britishairways.com
It looks as though 2018 is going
to see a spike in visitors, though.
Argentina’s state-owned airline
LADE is reportedly launching the
first regular commercial flights to
the White Continent this year. The
flights, from Ushuaia in Argentina
to Antarctica’s Marambio Base
— a research station that’s being
developed to receive commercial
flights and accommodate visitors
— will take just 90 minutes.
Meanwhile, the Chinese media
is talking about the country’s own
Hainan Airlines organising its
first trip to the South Pole after
a commercial aircraft carrying
22 Chinese passengers landed in
Antarctica on 16 December 2017.
The international coverage will
likely spark a new travel trend with
Chinese tourists.
All this means that, rather
than making a two-week-plus
commitment, travellers could now
find the South Pole manageable
in a long weekend, which
theoretically opens the continent
up to mass tourism.
With no local communities on
Antarctica, it’s hard to see how
it’ll benefit from more visitors.
“The rate of climate change
around the Antarctic Peninsula
is rapid,” says John
Durban, a British killer
whale researcher with
the National Oceanic
and Atmospheric
Administration
(NOAA).
“Increasing
NO FRILLS TO ARGENTINA
Norwegian has begun flights to
Buenos Aires, the first no-frills
service from the UK to Latin
America. It joins British Airways on
the route from Gatwick, making
the 14-hour journey, four times a
week. norwegian.com
TRAVEL GEEKS
tourism obviously means burning
more fossil fuels here.”
The two biggest visitors to
Antarctica are the US and China.
US President Donald Trump went
on record in 2015, saying: “I don’t
believe in climate change.” In 2012,
he said, “The concept of global
warming was created by and for
the Chinese.” Trump pulled out of
the Paris Agreement, and called
for an 11% cut to the National
Science Foundation (NSF) budget.
“The days when scientists just
waited for money from Congress
are gone,” says Durban, who’s
conducting research in Antarctica
as a guest of Lindblad Expeditions.
“But we can bring a small team
on commercial ships and get help
from everyone: tourists sharing
their photographs of whales is
invaluable to our research. We’ve
published a number of scientific
papers in which most of the data
was collected onboard.”
So, while flying trips to the
Antarctic may do the continent
little good, there’s something to be
said for slow travel there.
As I leave Palmer Station, and
return to the ship, one researcher
confides: “If you felt like the
senior scientists were avoiding
you, don’t feel bad: they got an
email from the NSF telling them
not to discuss climate
change with journalists.”
It seems there really
is only one land of the
free, and it’s covered
by ice — for now.
ESSEX TO EAST COAST
This spring, Stansted will see
new daily flights from Icelandic-
owned low-cost Primera to
Boston, Newark, Washington
DC and Toronto; expanding on
its short-haul holiday routes.
primeraair.co.uk
April 2018 153
TRAVEL GEEKS
CHECKLIST:
PICKPOCKET-PROOF
7TRAVEL
ways SAFER
to AS A FEMALE
PACSAFE VENTURESAFE X18
RRP: £99.90
pacsafe.com FEMALE SOLO TRAVEL IS MORE POPULAR THAN EVER. OUR TEAM REVEAL
THEIR TRIED-AND-TESTED TIPS AND TRICKS FOR A SAFER EXPERIENCE
1 // DON’T BE PARANOID
Fear can suck the joy out of any travel
experience, so rather than fall prey to it, keep
yourself open to experience but employ a bit
of local savvy. For example, in big US cities
people will strike up conversations with you
all the time. They love a bit of small talk, so
engaging in chat is just part of the landscape.
However, in Scandinavian countries, striking
up a conversation with a stranger is seen as a
bit rude — it would be considered odd, even,
ROHAN WOMEN’S WORLDVIEW to apologise after bumping in to someone,
SHIRT WITH HIDDEN POCKET so you don’t need to worry about
RRP: £59 shutting down any unwanted chat.
rohan.co.uk JO FLETCHER-CROSS
2 // SHARE ECONOMY
User reviews on sites and apps
like Airbnb and Uber can offer
added peace of mind. Getting into
a car with a five-star driver and
following the route on your phone
feels more secure than taking a
cab you’ve just flagged down. With
accommodation, I always check
hosts’ reviews and when travelling
solo, only stay with women or
LISA LEMON 3-IN-1 LOVEDAY BAG couples. Couchsurfing is also great
RRP: £148 for meeting locals, even if they can’t
lisalemon.com host you — it’s how I found Atlanta’s
best burgers and bar-hopped around
Tokyo’s Golden Gai. NICOLA TRUP
3 // CHECK IN
It’s 3am. My iPhone lights up
my room. ‘Tamsin Wressell
has requested that you be her
Companion. Keep an eye on her as
she’s on the move...’ The message
is accompanied by a link to Google
Maps. It’s showing me a live version
of my friend’s walk home. Apps like
GO TRAVEL BELT BANK Companion enable someone else to
RRP: £16.99 track your journey for extra peace of
go-travelproducts.com mind. (Free on iOS). JOSEPHINE PRICE
154 natgeotraveller.co.uk
4 // GET ORGANISED
Look out for pub crawls and tours that include
return transport in the ticket price — it’s more
fun if you’re not worried about how to get back
to the hostel at the end of the night. This was
what I did in Budapest while travelling solo
around Central Europe. FARIDA ZEYNALOVA
5 // WALK WITH PURPOSE
Or in other words, look like you’re familiar with
the area, and that you know where you’re going.
If I’m lost, I’ll keep this up until I find somewhere
where I feel safe enough to stop
and check a map — a coffee shop,
perhaps, or another place where a
number of people are gathered. If you
can, separate valuable or important
SAFE, items and keep a little emergency
money tucked away somewhere well
SECURE… hidden. TAMSIN WRESSELL
surreal? 6 // EMPOWER YOURSELF
Fight or flight? Although you may
never need to use them, self-defence
Unconventional tips that
have been doled out to
skills can give you the confidence
lone female travellers and tenacity to go it alone. Whether
over the years include: you try Krav Maga, Muay Thai or
• Wearing a wedding Taekwondo, you’ll learn dodging
ring to combat hassle techniques, basic blocking and
(useful for Victorian counter-attack moves — all seriously
travellers, arguably a empowering. STEPHANIE CAVAGNARO
little weak nowadays)
• Packing a doorstop
to bolster shoddy
7 // DIAL SOS
hotel doors Do you know the local emergency
• Carrying fake money services number? Put it in your
to fob off muggers phone (or learn how smartphones
(or potentially enrage) can autodial and summon help to
• Hiding cash in a tampon your GPS marker with a few discreet
applicator (mind- clicks). But be mindful of where you
bogglingly elaborate)
use it. If in danger, it could be safer
to flee for the nearest hotel or busy
If you’ve ever used any
IMAGES: GETTY
of these techniques, or
restaurant than call in the local
have safety tips to share, constabulary, who might not be the
please tweet us at best at dealing with a single female
@NatGeoTravelUK traveller. SARAH BARRELL
 TRAVEL GEEKS

Tech traveer TECHNOLOGY REPORTER FOR @BBCCLICK AND

AUTHOR OF WORKING THE CLOUD,
KATE RUSSELL PICKS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS

TOP APPS FOR...

HOTEL CHAT
flight alerts

Like a hotel with a personal technophobes needn’t fear

touch? Move over simpering
concierge, these days the little
extras are often generated by
efficient little chatbots
Chatbots are becoming
increasingly commonplace
— before long, we’ll spend more
time talking to them than we
do to our spouses. You might
think I’m joking but that’s an
actual prediction by analytics
firm Gartner. The hospitality
industry has embraced artificial
intelligence, with numerous hotels
now deploying chatbots that act as
a digital concierge; always online
and ready to serve, no matter how
demanding a guest might be.
Bebot (bebot.io) is a company
providing this service to hotels in
Japan, with Holiday
Inn the latest
to sign up.
Guests receive
a registration
code to
access the bot,
which provides
everything from travel
advice to sightseeing
tips and restaurant
recommendations. Bots interact
using everyday language, so
robotic responses; it feels just like
you’re chatting to the front desk.
Gooster (gooster.net),
meanwhile, is a service provider
that enables hotels to self-brand
the chatbot in a widget or run it
through Facebook Messenger.
Such is the number of hotel
groups now using this technology,
you’ll probably find it offered the
next time you make a reservation.
But if you prefer that human
touch, Four Seasons Hotels and
Resorts has recently deployed a
digital concierge service that lets
guests chat with hotel staff via
Facebook Messenger, WeChat,
KakaoTalk or SMS. The chain says
95% of messages are answered in
under five minutes.
SEAT ALERTS
IOS/ANDROID — FREE
If you’re not happy with your allotted seat, enter
flight details and seat preferences and this app
notifies you if any fellow passengers cancel a
reservation or fail to turn up at the airport, right
up to the departure-gate stage. expertflyer.com
HOPPER
IOS/ANDROID — FREE
Using a mix of historical data and current
prices, Hopper tells you the best time to book.
hopper.com
GOOGLE FLIGHTS
WEB APP — FREE
Tracks all flights on a specific route, notifying
you of fare changes. google.com/flights
SKYSCANNER
IOS/ANDROID — FREE
Experienced travellers will know Skyscanner as
a great place to find deals, but the mobile app
also has a price alerts option that will ping you
a message when the fare changes for any of the
trips you’re watching. skyscanner.net

GET THE GADGET

G-Ro smart carry-on
The stylish G-Ro has large wheels
set into the sides to make it easy
to pull across rough terrain
— without sacrificing capacity.
A 10,000mAh power bank that
fuels dual USB ports means you’ll
have enough power to charge
a phone up to four times. Plus,
if you have to check your G-Ro
into the hold, the battery can
easily be detached and carried
into the cabin. It also features a
Bluetooth luggage tracker. For an
extra £60 you can upgrade this to
the GSM-GPRS tracking system.
Alternatively, of course, you could
simply pop an old smartphone
with ‘find my phone’ activated
into the bag to locate it anywhere
around the globe (providing the
phone still has battery life). @katerussell
RRP: £499. g-ro.com katerussell.co.uk

April 2018 155

TRAVEL GEEKS
HOW I GOT THE SHOT
KOREAN
HAENYEO
MARK PARREN TAYLOR, THE
PHOTOGRAPHER FOR OUR IN
PICTURES FEATURE ON P.120,
EXPLAINS HOW HE CAPTURED THIS
PORTRAIT OF A HAENYEO
Kang Jung-ah is a haenyeo
— a female free diver on the
South Korean island of Jeju, in
the East China Sea. Women here
have been harvesting seafood
this way for centuries, using
only flippers and goggles and
no breathing equipment. Sadly,
this traditional way of life is
under threat as tourism on the
industry grows.
Kang is in her 60s and lives on
the island — around 55 miles off
the southern tip of the Korean
Peninsula. For around 100 days
of the year, she heads out into the
treacherous waters, diving for
up to six hours of muljil (‘seabed
harvesting’) at a time.
Kang was less inhibited than
her fellow divers, but still a bit
hesitant at times when interacting
156 natgeotraveller.co.uk
with the camera. The situation
wasn’t helped by the fact we
couldn’t speak each other’s
language. The first step was to
find a secluded section of the
shoreline where Kang wouldn’t
feel self-conscious. She chose
where to stand, how she’d pose,
what props she held and how she
approached the camera.
As we scrambled over the
sawtooth basalt rocks, I kept
A photo shoot is a few metres behind while
collaboration between taking photos of her in a bid to
prepare and relax us both for the
photographer and the
upcoming photo shoot.
subject — it’s Once Kang was happy with the
important to make location, we started the shoot. At
sure everyone feels first, I stood back, perhaps five
metres at first, then four, then
comfortable in three. Every five or six snaps,
the situation I’d show her the monitor so she
could see the images. This gave
me the opportunity to make
suggestions here and there: a
slight angle change to her pose, or
to hold the netting a little higher,
and so on. The intention was to
reinforce the idea that it was a
collaboration between subject
and photographer.
Kang gained confidence with
every click, and relaxed into the
plucky, breezy person we see in
the shot. More often than not,
getting the best possible shot
depends less on camera settings
and more on how the situation is
approached by the photographer
— whether it’s a vast seascape, or
a shy haenyeo.
mptphoto.com
@markparrentaylor
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

EMBRACE NATURE WITH A CLEAR

CONSCIENCE
THE TEXAPORE ECOSPHERE
JACKET IS AN ECO-FRIENDLY
ESSENTIAL THAT’S PERFECT
FOR OUTDOOR ADVENTURERS

T
here’s nothing better than getting up
and getting outside — seeking out your
next adventure in the great outdoors.
Whether you’re an avid cyclist, love to hike,
or enjoy a countryside stroll, fresh air is good
for the soul. Enjoying nature, while at the same
time protecting it, should be a matter of course,
and now thanks to Jack Wolfskin, it can be.
The new Texapore Ecosphere jacket is made
entirely from recycled material. Jack Wolfskin
has an impressive, zero-waste concept,
conserving the planet’s vital resources and
minimising CO2 emissions.
While the outer material and lining are
made from upcycled plastic bottles, for the
first time Jack Wolfskin has been able to take
its environmental credentials even further.
The weatherproof element of the jacket is now
made from recycled material too. Light, warm
and breathable, it protects against wind, rain
and snow. Plus it can be easily folded into a
compact size, making it the ideal addition to
any backpack.
This high-performance jacket is as suitable
for hiking and active outdoor pursuits as it
is for everyday life. Texapore Ecosphere is a
world first — coming out this spring, exclusive
to Jack Wolfskin. jack-wolfskin.co.uk

BRIDGEPORT JACKET

This parka has a sustainable design,

and thanks to its Texapore Ecosphere
fabric, it doesn’t just look good
but is windproof, waterproof and
breathable. It fits well, whether
worn over sports gear or a suit.
Waterproof: 20,000mm
Windproof
100% recycled*
*Applies to the outer fabric,
membrane and lining.
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

MAKE WAY FOR

MALTA
PACKED WITH EVERYTHING FROM FINE FOOD TO WILD
COASTLINES, THESE MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS ARE
THE PERFECT SHORT-HAUL GETAWAY

J
ust three hours from the UK, and predominantly English-speaking,
Malta and its inspiring capital, Valletta, shine as the perfect short-haul
destination. Blessed with year-round sunshine, the island also punches
well above its size when it comes to spoiling travellers. Ancient towns still
whisper of a fascinating history, and a vibrant local culture can be heard, seen
and tasted in its languages, festivals and food. The rugged, rural islands of Gozo
and Comino offer unspoilt coves and caves — and adventure activities besides.
But the jewel in Malta’s crown is its beautiful capital city, which boasts
UNESCO World Heritage status. Jutting into the bright blue Mediterranean,
the honey-hued city of Valletta has centuries of history, with ancient streets,
squares and waterfronts. Visitors can marvel at architectural treasures such as
St John’s Co-Cathedral, or tuck into the city’s thriving restaurant scene, with
local and international fare served up alongside much-lauded Maltese wine.
Archaeological sites and inspiring baroque architecture that reveal the country’s
history are the perfect daytime activities, while the city’s vibrant nightlife keeps
going into the small hours.
What’s more, there’s no better time to discover the Maltese capital than
2018. As European Capital of Culture, the city will be awash with over 400
cultural events throughout the year, ranging from live music to cutting-edge art
exhibitions, flamboyant festivals and innovative dance performances.
IMAGES: @BEAUTIFULDESTINATIONS

Renowned for its open-minded approach and warm welcomes, Malta is FROM TOP:
waiting with open arms. Bridge Bar,
Valletta at
night; Upper
Barrakka
Gardens,
malt auk .com Valletta.
valle t t a2018 .org BELOW:
Aerial view
of Valletta
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

The new taly

From washing lines hanging in the streets of Naples to Tuscany’s

verdant hues, Italy has long been a seductive mainstay of
travellers. But this time, we leave the stalwarts behind and uncover
the alternative highlights of this vibrant and varied favourite

Plus // Madeira, Sri Lanka, Melbourne, Berlin, Brazil,

Thailand, Copenhagen, Philadelphia, St Helena, Seychelles

may issue
On sale 5 april 2018
IMAGE: FOURCORNERS

For more information on our subscription offers,

see page 192

April 2018 159

COMEDY CENTRAL
FOR AN INSIGHT INTO MONTREAL’S LEGENDARY PARTY SPIRIT, VISIT
DURING ONE OF ITS FESTIVALS. OR BETTER STILL, BECOME A PERFORMER
AT ONE OF THE WORLD’S BIGGEST COMEDY FESTIVALS, JUST FOR LAUGHS
WORDS: JO FLETCHER-CROSS
J
ust how friendly Montrealers
are becomes apparent when
you spend all day being sick
in bins. They’re all very concerned,
they want to help: in London I’m
pretty sure they’d just assume
I was drunk. I’m not, but I am
considering it — it might help with
the nerves. It’s 1pm on Saturday:
just nine more hours before I go
on stage as part of the Best of the
Fest show at the biggest comedy
festival in the world, Just for
Laughs. I retch again.
First held in 1983, Just for
Laughs takes place every August;
a month when comedians,
talent scouts and producers all
converge on the city to find the
next big thing, make deals, and,
presumably, to have a laugh.
In 2016 it pulled in 2.5 million
visitors. It’s a big deal.
I’m not a newbie comedian
but neither do I have the comedy
chops of some of the big names
here (Jane Krakowski, Jerry
Seinfeld, Trevor Noah, to name
just a few) — or even the medium
names. Performing on the UK’s
open mic circuit for three years,
I’m not exactly big stuff. So when
I approached Just for Laughs
about performing, it was to my
considerable surprise that they
agreed. Even after they’d seen
videos of my act.
I start my first evening in
Montreal at the beautiful
160 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Monument-National, the oldest
theatre still in use in Quebec,
for the New Faces show, a line-
up of the hottest upcoming
talent. Assured, sparkling comic
after comic takes to the stage,
most from New York and filled
with boundless confidence.
Then there’s the crowd. British
audiences are usually fairly
restrained, sometimes a bit
shouty. This audience is not like
that. They whoop. They holler.
They scream with laughter. And
they also sit in absolute stony
silence when something doesn’t
connect. There’s no doubt what
they’re thinking: we’re here to
see the best in comedy. If you
deliver, we love you. If you don’t,
we hate you. I go outside for some
fresh air. And throw up in my first
Montreal bin.
Thus purged, the next night, I
make my way over to the Hyatt
Regency to see how the award-
winning Brits do it. Surreal seems
to be the way forward, at least
in the case of Jamie Morton,
James Cooper and Alice Levine
who perform a routine around
an erotic novel written by one of
their fathers, in the shape of the
phenomenally successful My Dad
Wrote a Porno podcast. The team
looks about as bemused as I feel
but they manage to be utterly
hilarious nonetheless, and fairly
instantly have the audience in
fits of laughter. It’s confidence-
inspiring but when I emerge,
there are meetings going on
everywhere: the Hyatt is Just for
Laughs business HQ — the press
room is here, most of the top
people stay here; deals are being
done left, right and centre. I panic.
I’m not ready for this. I dash out
into the sunshine and decide to
explore the city. I need to get into
the heads of my audience.
A street art walking tour is
the answer, taking me past the
beautiful stone buildings of Old
Montreal with gorgeous wrought
ironwork, a nine-storey mural of
Leonard Cohen in his old Saint-
Laurent neighbourhood, and a
cold-press coffee at super-hipster
hangout Dispatch. Montreal’s
the kind of place you idly start
wondering if you could afford to
live in, and what your life would
be like if you did. “In the winter, I
hardly ever go outside except to
skate,” a chatty barista tells me.
“It snows so much, you wouldn’t
believe it.” I hate the snow and I
can’t skate, I tell her. “You could
just stay indoors: that’s why
we have the underground city,”
she offers.
I elect instead for a darkened
room: more comedy. This
time, downtown at Theatre
Sainte-Catherine for Hosts with
the Most, part of Off-JFL, a RIGHT: The Quartier
programme of fringier, alternative des Spectacles
 IMAGE: VIVIEN GOUMAND

April 2018
161
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 MONTREAL

shows. These sound perhaps I find her and we talk about

more like the comedy I’m used
to in London. Yet once again the
comics are much more confident,
more in your face than at home.
But it’s the audience that really
takes me aback. They’re on
board for most things but are
easily shocked. The sort of sexual
innuendo that a British comedy
club audience wouldn’t bat an
eyelid at elicits gasps and some
outright hostility.
Find the festival vibe
I’m now unbelievably nervous. I
don’t know how I would’ve dealt
with that audience. I don’t know
how they would’ve dealt with me.
I do know I want a drink. I text
the only other person I know in
this city: comedian Heidi Regan.
Heidi’s here from the UK after
winning the 2016 So You Think
You’re Funny? competition at
that year’s Edinburgh Festival, the
prize for which was the chance to
perform at Just for Laughs. We
arrange to meet in the festival bar,
back at the Hyatt.
Walking there calms me
down; the route goes through
the Quartier des Spectacles,
where the outdoor element of the
festival takes place. People are
eating at cool pop-up food places,
hanging out with friends, there’s
music and dancing and even
a huge outdoor comedy show
going on. It’s the first time I’ve felt
like I’m at a festival rather than
a series of gigs, and I’m cursing
myself for not coming down
before. I’ve been to the Edinburgh
Fringe Festival dozens of times, as
spectator, writer and performer,
and this is much more like that
sort of fun vibe. Feeling much
more cheerful and confident,
I stride into the Hyatt and head
for the bar.
This isn’t like the unpretentious
ratty drinking warrens of
Edinburgh. There’s a sexy band,
for a start. There’s a roped-off
VIP area where I instantly spot
Jim O’Heir (Jerry in Parks and
Recreation) chatting to Jerry
Seinfeld and I go weak at the
IMAGE: CAMERON STRAND
the differences between our GOOD FOR A LAUGH?
Edinburgh and Montreal
experiences. “It’s such a different From jazz to comedy, contemporary circus to avant-garde
festival,” she agrees. “I had no dance, Montreal is renowned for its festivals, which run
idea in advance; all I had to year-round, even in the icy dead of winter. Founded in
go on was that it might be like 1983, Just For Laughs is the largest international comedy
Edinburgh. But you can’t even festival in the world. In 2018, it runs 11-29 July.
really tell there’s a comedy
festival going on when you walk
the streets, no flyers, no signs.”
We talk about shows we’ve seen,
and I’m relieved to find I’m not
alone in feeling the differences
between the performers here and
back home. “Generally, the north
American sets are so joke-heavy
and tight, a gag every line almost,
whereas our sets have a different
pace,” she observes.
Culture-shocked and nervous,
I wake up the next morning
needing a boost. Today, I decide,
I’m going to try and channel those
confident comics I’ve seen. I’ve
got tickets for the Jane Krakowski
gala show tonight. She’s one of my
comedy heroes. So, I ask myself…
what would Jane do?
That’s how I find myself in Bota
Bota, a spa on a boat permanently
moored on the St Lawrence river,
bobbing around in a Jacuzzi
on the top deck. Jane would
definitely be in a spa on a boat. I
swim in the gorgeous warm pools
and wander the pretty gardens.
I do feel more relaxed. Jane
was right. After a few hours of
wallowing in water I’m refreshed,
and after a stroll through
perennially pretty Old Montreal,
it’s time to stop channelling Jane
ABOVE: Trevor Noah
and to actually go and see her. I push down the voice inside
The gala shows are the big screaming: “What is this?”
events of the festival — hosted by What this is, is the most
a famous name (the starry likes of showbizzy event I’ve ever
Steve Martin and Tina Fey), they attended — and I once saw a
take place in the swanky Salle midnight performance of Cats for
Wilfrid-Pelletier in the Place des people working in London’s West
Arts cultural complex. I take my End. Jane Krakowski is fabulous:
seat and we’re given a speech on she looks stunning, she’s funny,
how it’s all being filmed and we and she mentions all the awards
need to stay in our seats, and be she’s ever been nominated for.
very enthusiastic. “I’m not just known for being
The warm-up guy runs around, Jenna in 30 Rock,” she trills
getting everyone cheering, — everyone cheers. “I won a Tony
clapping, standing up and Award on Broadway, too!” The
dancing. I look around, trying audience whoops with delight as

knees. Everyone eyes up my pass
to see if I’m worth talking to (I’m
not), and there’s a lot of business
card exchanging and serious
networking. I head for the bar, buy
a whisky, down the whisky, buy
another, and go in search of Heidi.
to catch someone’s eye to share
a moment at how staged and
ridiculous this all is. Except every
time I catch anyone’s eye, they
whoop and holler, and in one
horrifying instance, high five me.
My British reserve is brutalised.
she launches into a bizarre but
slick song-and-dance number
packed with references to Canada
that make me think the crowd
will see right through this cheesy
trick, but no: each mention of
Mounties and maple syrup just

April 2018 163

MONTREAL
ramps up the love. She then
introduces a series of top-flight
comedians, such as Jen Kirkman,
Chris D’Elia and the inexplicably
popular puppet comic Randy,
before getting on to her ‘surprise
guest’ Tituss Burgess (her co-star
in Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt).
They sing a duet: a mash-up of Get
Happy and Happy Days Are Here
Again. And then, just like that,
it’s over. The lights come up, and
we’re funnelled out into the street.
I go back to the Quartier des
Spectacles for a drink.
Bin there, done that
The next day, I wake up early again,
hungover again. My performance
is tonight, but not until 10.30. I ride
the Metro out to Atwater Market,
and take a lengthy walk along the
Lachine Canal to the Old Port.
Walking this route, heavy with the
ghosts of Montreal’s industrial
past, built on fur, wood and steel,
something seems to click. The city
begins to make sense to me in a
way that it hasn’t, quite, until now.
Along paths through green spaces,
past old factories now turned into
luxury apartments, under the
shadows of abandoned silos, my
nerves get the better of me and I
throw up into the bin.
It’s time. I turn up at
ComedyWorks, a raucous pub-
164 natgeotraveller.co.uk
style venue, and a smiling woman
with a clipboard takes me up
to the green room. The other
comedians are all very friendly; I
get chatting to Eliza Skinner, from
Los Angeles. “I write for James
Cordon on the Late Late Show,”
she says. “What do you do back in
London?” This and that, I mutter.
I get to select my entrance music;
I go for London’s Calling by The
Clash in the hope that I’ll seem all
British and cool.
I’m on late in the bill: one by
one the acts go downstairs to go
on, and I spend most of my time
pacing in a storeroom. I mutter
my set to a giant jar of pickles
over and over again. And then it’s
my time. I’m shaking so much it’s
hard to hold on to the bannister
as I head down to the stage; I wait
outside a door as the super-
confident, super-American MC
Sherrod Small whips the crowd
into a frenzy and then he says my
name and I’m on. Often the lights
in your eyes mean you can’t see
the audience at all, but not here: I
can see everyone. I start my set. I
get some laughs. Then I get some
more and I realise: I’m not going to
die up here. I can just enjoy this.
A few minutes in and it’s time
for my killer blow: I’m talking
about how tough my fellow
Glaswegians are. I’ve watched and
Role model // I’ve got
tickets for the Jane
Krakowski gala show
tonight. She’s one of
my comedy heroes. So,
I ask myself… what
would Jane do?
LEFT: Jane Krakowski gives her song-
and-dance number about Canada
learned. I’ve seen how references
to Canada go down. I can’t do a
song-and-dance number about
moose like Jane Krakowski
but I can play that game. “You
Canadians must be tough, too,
though,” I say. “You’ve got proper
cold weather here.” A bigger
laugh than that really deserves.
“And bears.”
The crowd literally goes wild.
“Bears!” I hear one guy shout. They
scream with laughter. They clap.
I have to wait for what feels like
several minutes (it was probably
about 15 seconds) for them to
stop so I can get on with my set. I
don’t really know what I’ve done.
But they sure love bears. They’re
on my side now. I’m a superstar
comedian. I’m the confident, MORE INFO
consummate professional up on
stage, batting it out of the park. I Comedy coaching by Chris
have them. I finish my set, I walk Head: chrishead.com
out to ringing applause and I’m More info: Just For Laughs:
back on the stairs. The lovely hahaha.com
woman with the clipboard smiles: Tourism Montreal: mtl.org
“Great job! There are cars for the Destination Canada:
performers to go downtown for uk-keepexploring.canada.travel
the closing party. Shall I get the
driver to come round and pick you
up?” This is it, I think. I’m a big deal Air Transat flies non-stop from
now. And then I remember who I Gatwick to Montreal from £359
actually am. return. airtransat.com
“No, thanks, I’ll walk,” I say, and The Resident Inn Montreal
step out into the night. Straight Downtown has doubles from
past the bin. C$209 (£119). marriot.co.uk
 PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

A BORN ADVENTURER
ANDY HAS TRAVELLED THE WORLD, GUIDING GROUPS IN DESTINATIONS ALL OVER. NOW HE’S BACK IN
HIS HOMELAND LEADING ACTIVE ADVENTURES’ TRIPS ALL OVER NEW ZEALAND. WE CATCH UP WITH
HIM TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE COUNTRY’S WILD AND WONDERFUL NORTH ISLAND

HOW AND WHY DID YOU BECOME AN
ACTIVE ADVENTURES GUIDE?
I began guiding in Europe in 2005, and learning
about the region made me aware of how little
I really knew about New Zealand. We often
neglect gaining an insight into our immediate
environment and working with Active
Adventures has motivated me to delve deeper
into my own country. I've been asked a thousand
questions, and have discovered a thousand new
facts about my own back garden. Passing on this
knowledge while indulging in our great outdoors
is an amazing thing to call my job.
ANY STANDOUT MEMORIES FROM YOUR
TIME AS A GUIDE?
I get a real kick out of bringing our colourful
past to life for first-time visitors to New
Zealand. We often refer to South Island as
‘The Mainland’, but it’s the top of North
Island where New Zealand was really born,
defended and fought for. It’s where we began
as a country, both Māori and Pakeha. Creating
memories for our guests from our memoirs, so
to speak, stands out for me.
NORTH ISLAND HAS EVERYTHING FROM
VOLCANOES TO COASTLINE; WHAT PART OF
THE TOUR STANDS OUT FOR YOU?
We’re so lucky to have such diversity on both
islands. As a keen surfer, the beaches in the
Far North will always be special to me, but our
unique volcanic plateau — lava flows sculpted
by glaciers — is just amazing. It’s such a cool
experience hiking over active volcanoes.
HIKING, BIKING AND EVERYTHING IN
BETWEEN — THIS TOUR IS ACTION-PACKED.
WHAT TENDS TO GIVE VISITORS THE
BIGGEST THRILL?
Action-packed certainly is right — we try to
keep the thrill level high throughout the trip.
Our tours are focused on hiking, biking and
kayaking, mostly in that order, but up north
we add in sandboarding into the blue waters
of Hokianga Harbour, snorkelling and diving
at the renowned marine reserve of the Poor
ANDY FACT FILE Knights Islands, and tackling some incredible
rivers, both above and underground. There’s
Age: 38 also our mountain-biking trip through the
Lives: New Zealand for Redwoods in Rotorua: world-class trails, full-
half the year, then Europe suspension bikes and incredible local guides
Hobbies: Surfing and guitar — that’s an activity everyone raves about.
Favourite place: Fiordland
and the Dolomites WHAT MAKES NEW ZEALAND THE IDEAL
PLACE FOR AN ADVENTURE?
I like to think it’s the attitude of locals. There’s
a genuine enthusiasm for showing off the best
of our country. As guides, we’re here to help, to
make the magic happen as often as we can, yet
we’re consistently upstaged by friendly Kiwis
just doing their thing day by day. Magic comes
in lots of little doses throughout our trips,
and we can credit the people we work with
and encounter along the way with providing
plenty of it. A country is often defined more
by its inhabitants than by its natural beauty.
Although we have plenty of that going on as
well — spectacular beaches, crazy geothermal
wonderlands and 50 shades of green at every
turn. What more do you need?

REQUEST YOUR FREE NEW ZEALAND TRAVEL BROCHURE

ac tiveadventures .com/new -zealand or 0808 23 4 7 780
 Portfolio
Teagan Cunniffe, judge and travel

�hotogra�hy
photographer, said, “Capturing a series
of images with a common thread is
difficult. It takes skill and self-
awareness to know what makes a
strong portfolio.”

COMPETITION 2018
winner
WITH SUBMISSIONS
COVERING THE GLOBE,
WE PRESENT THE BEST
IMAGES AND VIDEOS
FROM THIS YEAR’S
N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C
T R AV EL L ER (U K )
PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2018

HEADLINE SPONSORS

PRIZE SPONSORS

166 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 Daniel Burton
ELEMENTS
“My theme is based on the four
classical elements of nature
(earth, wind, fire and water). The
images are designed to be viewed
together as a set of four and have
been arranged using colour
theory, with red/green and
yellow/blue diagonally opposite
each other as per a colour wheel.”

April 2018 167

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Elizabeth Bennett
HIMALAYAS, INDIA
“I came across many Hindu holy sites in places of
spectacular natural beauty. This connection of culture,
religion and nature became a powerful part of the trip. I
tried to convey this by using a wide-angle lens to capture
the vast depth of this environment. The shrine pictured is
on the summit of Chandrashila, at 13,000ft. Just below the
peak is Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple in the world.”

168 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Chris Kirby
SOWETO, SOUTH AFRICA
“Soweto, the South African
township situated a few miles
southwest of Johannesburg, is
synonymous with the struggle
against apartheid. Since its early
beginnings in the 1930s, it’s
always been a dormitory for a
workforce serving Johannesburg
and its mines. Today, modern
Soweto, a name derived from
‘south western township’, is a
lively and bustling area of nearly
two million people. It boasts a
burgeoning middle-class, yet
severe poverty still exists. This
portrait series was taken in one
of Soweto’s informal settlements,
Motsoaledi — a collection of
ramshackle tin shacks without
electricity or water.”

April 2018 169

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Grand prize winner

Chris Hudson, head judge, said, “This entry stood out
from the first moment we saw it, probably because of
the stark white background that forms the
environment in which these penguins live. There is,
however, an element of tenderness about it all to
contrast this, and in the composition Renato
has managed to capture a touching moment with the
highest technical and compositional standards.”

170 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

grand
prize
winner

Renato Granieri
SOUTH GEORGIA
“I was walking through a vast
colony of king penguins in
South Georgia, looking for
inspiration. I decided to focus
on intimate behaviour, so I sat
on the snow and waited
patiently. Two of the penguins
came within a few feet of me,
and I soon realised I had the
opportunity I was looking for. I
took a few shots before the pair
started chasing each other and
disappeared into the throng.”

April 2018 171

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Nature
Paul Wynn
CHOBE RIVER, BOTSWANA
“We’d just set off on our early
morning safari in a small
flat-bottomed boat. Suddenly the
peace and quiet was disturbed
by a noisy troop of baboons, full
of energy and exuberance. I
noticed a couple of them were
taking it easy and after a quick
change of camera settings, I
started to photograph the pair.
They seemed oblivious to
everything around them and
appeared to be engaged in their
own intimate conversation. The
rising sun was low in the sky and
behind the subject. By
underexposing the shot, I was
able to eliminate any shadow
detail and give the animals a
golden outline.”

172 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Video
Andy Skillen, judge and wildlife photographer, said, “One
of the best things about this excellent short video by Timur
(who was the winner of the Video category last year, too) is
that, within seconds of it starting, I was utterly gripped by
his use of iconic images and style.”

winner

Timur Tugalev
LOST IN CUBA
“The smiles and contagious temperaments of locals I met on
my trip felt like the true heart of the island. It’s a place of
wonders and legendary colonial cities.”

Rob Evans
SÖLL, AUSTRIA
“As soon as I reached the top of the mountain, I stepped out
onto the viewing point, overlooking the great peaks of the
Austrian Alps in pure amazement.”

Jasmine Van Hoeylandt

MATUSADONA NATIONAL
PARK, ZIMBABWE
“Safe from crocodiles, a colony of
cormorants have built their nests
up in the tress of the drowned
forest of Lake Kariba, the world’s
largest man-made lake by volume.
Watching them while floating
peacefully across the water in a
small boat, steered by our expert
guide Bruce Cronje, felt strangely
at odds with the military coup that Mark Bradley
was unfolding just then a couple of WILD SCOTLAND
hundred miles away in Harare. I “With little more than a map and a tank of fuel, we embarked
managed to take the picture a few on a 3,000 mile trip around Scotland. Leaving civilisation
behind, we went where the wi-fi is weak and whisky is strong.”
minutes after the sun had set,
when a deep purple sky gave way
to this mystical greyish blue that VIEW THE SHORTLISTED VIDEOS HERE:
surrounded us for a few precious ngtr.uk/NGTvideo2018
moments before complete
darkness set in.”

April 2018 173

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Urban winner

Ben Hawkins, judge and group editor at Practical

Photography magazine, said, “Great timing, gritty black
and white, slapstick comedy — John’s shot has all the
hallmarks of classic reportage. Think Cartier-Bresson,
Robert Doisneau and Vivian Maier, and you’re in the
right ballpark.”

John White
LOWER MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
“I was lucky enough this year to have a work trip to New York. With my one spare
day, I headed south from my hotel and just started walking, hoping to see
something interesting — I had no idea that practically everything I saw would be
photo-worthy, and pretty much fell in love with the city that day. Making my way
back from the Williamsburg Bridge, I turned the corner of Elizabeth and Prince,
and there it was — this huge dog, hilariously trying over and over again to get its
head through the window to sneak a bite of a customer’s meal. I captured the shot
just before the dog’s owner turned to get him down.”

Francis Cox
BEIJING, CHINA
“While on a short trip to Beijing,
I spent a day wandering around
various districts with a friend
who’s also a keen photographer.
The urban life was amazing,
vibrant and colourful. While
waiting at a road crossing, I
noticed the cafe behind me;
through the steamy window I
could see it was buzzing with
activity. With my camera held in
low light, I took a few shots; this
image really captured the
atmosphere I was looking for.”

174 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Michael Scott
HONG KONG
“When I first saw photographs of
Montane Mansion, in Hong Kong,
I knew I had to see it with my own
eyes. Once I arrived in the city,
my number one priority was to
find the hustling and bustling
Quarry Bay. Once there, I stood
right in the middle of it all, in the
thick humidity. Once I discovered
the perfect spot on the ground, I
dived into the moment by
pointing my camera skyward to
capture the cultural beauty and
unbelievable symmetry.”

April 2018 175

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018
winner
People
Ben Hawkins, judge and group editor at Practical
Photography magazine, said “Providing the viewer
with a unique glimpse into a life that’s both alien
and familiar — we all drink tea with eagles, right?
— Simon’s image draws us into the hunter’s world,
as all good environmental portraits should.”
176 natgeotraveller.co.uk
Simon Morris
WESTERN MONGOLIA
“I took this shot while staying
with a Kazakh family in Western
Mongolia for a week during
winter. They hunt with a female
golden eagle at this time of year;
usually hunting foxes and, very
occasionally, wolves. They treat
the eagle as part of their family
and care deeply for this majestic
bird of prey. This image captures
what to us seems rather
incongruous — the hunter
resting at home with his eagle on
one side and the family cat on
the other.”
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018
Trevor Craske
BANGKOK, THAILAND
“Bangkok in early April is crazy
— locals celebrate Songkran
(Thai New Year) by throwing
water over each other. We were in
the city on holiday and decided
to visit Lumphini Park. We took
the BTS Skytrain to Si Lom, but
when we left the station via the
aerial walkway, the street below
was a scene of sheer mayhem
with water everywhere. Seeing
the person next to me
photograph the throng below
with their phone was the decisive
moment for me to take this shot.”
James Abell
LISBON, PORTUGAL
“I wanted to get a picture of
people travelling on the trams.
Despite taking photos of passing
trams at any given opportunity
during my time in the
Portuguese capital, none of them
particularly inspired me — so I
decided to dedicate my final
morning to getting the shot I
wanted. I spent nearly two-and-
a-half hours standing on the
same street corner
photographing the passing
trams. When this particular
tram came along and the girl in
the window stared directly at
me, I knew I had my shot.”
April 2018 177
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Action winner

Teagan Cunniffe, judge and travel

photographer, said, “More than just a fast
shutter speed is needed here — great action
photographs plunge you into the experience.
One can feel the dogs’ exhilaration as they
bound towards the camera, shadows forming
active lines leading your eye towards the sled.”

Stuart Dunn
SVALBARD, NORWAY
“The temperature was incredibly low, somewhere in the region of -20C.
I was attempting to photograph dog sledding using a snowmobile to
track ahead of the dogs, which wasn’t working. The problem was that
the snowmobile would leave tracks in the snow. In the end, I opted for
racing ahead of the dogs and crouching in the snow while they charged
towards me. I’d capture a few shots before diving out of the way, so as
not to get run down. It was pretty scary, but well worth it.”

178 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2018

Anaïs Voski
NORTHERN GHANA
“In northern Ghana, many
farmers rely on educational radio
programmes to improve their
farming practices, especially as
climate change is altering weather
patterns. On this dry afternoon, a
farmer was spreading fertiliser on
his family’s rice farm after
hearing on the radio there was no
storm expected the next day. I
stood under the farm’s only tree,
waiting for the perfect shot, in a
peaceful silence broken only by
insects chirping in the distance.”

Jonny Williams
RAF FAIRFORD, ENGLAND
“I try to attend as many air
shows as I can around the UK
each year. The highlight of every
show is always, for me at least,
the Red Arrows. I took this shot
at the Royal International Air
Tattoo — the world’s largest
military air show — back in 2016
at RAF Fairford.”

April 2018 179

SPECIAL FEATURE

IMAGE: CARLO BARON

180 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SPECIAL FEATURE

THE
FA I R I E S
OF
NORTHERN
I TA LY
Mountains meet the Mediterranean in this far-flung
corner of Italy, full of dense pine forests, emerald
lakes and sun-drenched olive groves. Trentino is a
land of enchanting beauty, where locals have a
deep-rooted relationship with their natural world

WO R D S C H A R L O T T E W I G R A M - E VA N S
P H OTO G R A P H S N I C O AV E L A R D I

April 2018 181

SPECIAL FEATURE

T
he ash-grey mountains tower above me: a huge fortress, turrets
punching skywards, battlements between them scarred and battle-
worn. The more I stare, the more my imagination runs away with
me. The undulating hills become a heaving ocean, the clouds that
linger at their tops huge plumes of spray. I can almost taste salt on the air,
see sentinels on the ramparts, weaponry glistening in the sun.
My reverie is broken by my Alpine guide pointing out the differences in
the landscape around me. To my right, there’s a glacial valley, with soft hills
and dark, still lakes; and to my left, the mighty Dolomites, a mountain range
that formed below the primordial seas 250 million years ago. You can still
find shells on its flanks, testimony to its watery past. In fact, the scene I’m
witnessing seems to sum up the whole of Trentino — a single province where
the changes in the landscape are vast. Within 60 miles (a two-hour drive, or
15-minute helicopter ride), you can go from the extremes of the mountains to
the sub-Mediterranean climate of Lake Garda.
We continue, passing clumps of foxgloves, bright-eyed ringlet butterflies
no bigger than twopenny pieces, and huddles of other hikers equally
enthralled by the view, before returning to Chalet Fogajard, outside the town
of Madonna di Campiglio. The only thing that eclipses the five-course feast I
sit down to that evening is the view: at sundown, the Dolomites burn a deep,
transfixing pink.
“I’ve lived in this area my whole life, and still stop five or six times a
day just to stare,” chalet owner Edoardo tells me; his normally serene
face lighting up as he looks at the mountains. “No two days are the same.”
The place belonged to his wife’s parents, and after they passed away he
transformed it into what it is today. Not only is the setting stupendous,
but the interior is too: walking into my room, with its bare-wood beams
and ornately carved balcony, feels like stepping inside the world’s ultimate
treehouse, and everywhere the sweet smell of pine lingers.
Edoardo is a ski guide in winter, taking out small groups staying at the
chalet and often leading whole-day, off-piste excursions. “I just head out onto
the mountains and see where we end up,” he smiles. I make a mental note to
come back when the snow starts, as I return to my meal: creamy carrot soup,
fresh pasta, beef stew — every mouthful sourced from Edoardo’s land.
I sleep deeply — I’m not sure whether it’s the impossibly fresh air, the
silence, or the bottle of local Teroldego Rotaliano that knocks me out — and
wake to see the sun struggling to get up and over the mountains. As it inches
its way higher, light spills over the peaks, seeming to cascade down the
slopes like water. Seemingly with its final breath, it conquers the summit
— blindingly bright, jaw-droppingly beautiful.

Into the wild

That afternoon, I meet Noris. Known locally as the Alpine fairy, she lives
deep in the forest, a half-hour ascent from the road through dense pine
forest that smells of rain, moss and earth, and spends her days out on the
mountains gathering herbs. When we arrive at her house, I’m half expecting
it to resemble Hagrid’s hut, but instead I’m confronted with a quaint, white
cottage with wooden shutters and potted plants on the sills.
Noris, however, is just as fascinating as I’d anticipated. Her knowledge
of plants is unparalleled, passed down from her mother and grandmother.
“Look!” she cries, darting from bush to bush like a child on an Easter egg
hunt. “This herb is called alchemilla. Legend has it that in the past, the poor
men of the mountain would pick it at first light and give it to their wives.

182 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SPECIAL FEATURE

Noris lives deep in the

forest, a half-hour
ascent from the road
through dense pine
forest that smells of
rain, moss and earth

PREVIOUS PAGES,
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
The Dolomites; Arte Sella
sculpture park; head
ranger, Paneveggio Forest
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: Noris’ home; Noris,
the Alpine fairy;
edible flowers at
Ristorante El Molin

April 2018 183

SPECIAL FEATURE

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP:

Paneveggio Forest’s
head ranger examining
spruce wood used
to make violins; hors
d’oeuvre at Ristorante El
Molin; Paneveggio forest

184 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SPECIAL FEATURE

There was always a dew drop inside, sparkling like a diamond — a symbol The trees are like
of their love.”
Growing suddenly pensive, she continues: “When I first moved to this something out of a
house, I stood outside as it grew dark. I found myself immersed in an
immense silence. The energy of the mountains was so strong I could feel it fairytale. The
pressing against my chest.” Normally, I’d shrug off this idea as the sort thing
parroted by people who organise their diaries around silent yoga retreats and moss-carpeted floor
wear five years’ worth of WOMAD wristbands. But Noris’ words entrance me.
And, suddenly, I too feel the sheer force of the mountains.
deadens even the
The area around Madonna di Campiglio has around 120 hiking trails — not heaviest footfall, and
that Noris follows the paths, of course. She tells me she has her own routes
and is regularly out for almost 24 hours at a time, and not just when it’s sunlight trickling
warm. Even in the middle of winter, when the snow is waist deep, she’s out
in the wilderness. “When I’ve collected my herbs, I send them to my brother. through the branches
He deals with the business side of things.” How lovely to have a family-run
venture, I coo, as I drizzle her Mugolio pine syrup over thickly buttered bread
falls on the ground in
and anchovies.
Theirs is a small business, although several well-known chefs buy their
tiny pools of gold
products and, in fact, Noris says nonchalantly, they used to run a Michelin-
starred restaurant. I’m taken aback — imagining her away from the
mountains is difficult, and I’d assumed having a top restaurant in such a tiny
town would be something of an anomaly. I’m completely wrong, however;
there are currently six with the accolade in the town; and indeed, my next
stop — the village of Castello di Fiemme, nestled deep in Val di Fiemme
— also offers up its fair share of luxury dining.
Ristorante El Molin is really special, inspired by — as with so many things
here — Trentino’s natural world. After too many hors d’oeuvres to keep track
of come slow-cooked scallops that fall apart on the fork, smoked tagliolini
with fontal and black truffle, and venison loin so tender you can slice it with
a spoon. To finish, it seems only right to choose the bark crumble. It tastes
not so much of wood but of the wild, with juniper berries, redcurrants and
spices. I’m transported back to the walk through the Paneveggio forest I’d
done that afternoon.
The trees there are like something out of a fairytale: towering conifers
rising impossibly straight, impossibly tall. The moss-carpeted floor deadens
even the heaviest footfall, and sunlight trickling through the branches falls
on the ground in tiny pools of gold. The quality of the wood is such that a
select few spruces are felled each year to make musical instruments. Perhaps
the greatest testimony to the trees’ peerless acoustic pedigree is the fact
that, in the 17th and 18th centuries, Antonio Stradivari — the greatest string
instrument maker of all time — often travelled to the forest to pick out the
perfect tree.

It’s a man’s world

With approximately 60% of the province covered by forest, and a permanent
population of only half a million people, nature is clearly the dominant
force in Trentino. But while it’s possible to walk for hours through the
Paneveggio forest and see nothing but a marmot, hear nothing but birdsong,
the modern world is never far away — albeit coexisting harmoniously with
its wild surroundings.
This relationship between man and nature is at the very heart of the Arte
Sella sculpture park, set in a valley high above the town of Borgo Valsugana
and Lake Levico. I arrive the following morning after a two-hour drive south

April 2018 185

SPECIAL FEATURE

from Val di Fiemme, when the grass is still dewy and the light soft. Since
it was set up in 1986, more than 200 artists from countries as far-flung as
Azerbaijan, South Africa and Japan have travelled to the park to create
organic sculptures. All have a point to make.
One of the first artworks I see is the Living Village, a wondrous collection
of woven buildings made entirely of living materials — intended as a
reflection on the ecological future of cities in a world where oil is no
longer available. Most pieces are left to biodegrade, eventually returning
to the earth.
Perhaps the park’s most famous sculpture is the Tree Cathedral, a colossal
behemoth the size of a real gothic church, complete with three naves formed
of 80 wooden columns. In 2001, a young hornbeam was planted inside each
of these columns — the natural aided by the man-made. Eventually, the
supports will rot away until only the hornbeams remain. Nature will prevail,
and the trees will be free to take their own course.
Less than an hour’s drive later, I stand looking up at another cathedral. I’ve
arrived in Trentino’s capital, Trento, a charmingly laid-back city, where little
old ladies pedal by on bicycles and students loll around in squares sipping
Hugos (the region’s own version of an Aperol Spritz, made with elderflower
liqueur and mint leaves). The cobbled streets of the old town, fanning out
from the Piazza Duomo, pass shady porticoes, renaissance fountains and
houses adorned with wonderful medieval frescoes .
The air too has changed, the crispness of the peaks replaced with a deep,
marvellous heat. But there’s a resounding difference, something that sets
the city apart from Rome, Florence or Pisa. Everywhere you look, mountains
dominate the background. More than 20,000 years ago, when the Ice Age
retreated, it gouged a huge cavern between the peaks. And it’s here
that Trento sits, in the Val dell’ Adige — guarded by the peaks.
After a visit to the MUSE museum, where Trentino’s mind-bending
take on the natural world is covered over six fascinating floors, I head
just outside the city to the Maso Poli winery. Covering 24 acres, it’s run by
three sisters; the eldest of whom greets me. I’m expecting another Noris,
grubby from a day out picking grapes, clambering off a tractor, vines in her
hair, but Romina is the epitome of sass. She struts towards me in kitten
heels, dark glasses and a cloud of cigarette smoke, and holds out a hand
laden with rings.
When I ask whether she’s grown up with grapes, whether she always knew
she wanted to work for the family business, her answer is refreshingly, well,
sassy: “Yes I grew up on the vineyard, but I was interested in boys, not the
land. When my father asked me to work for him, I just said that I’d try it; that
if I liked it, I’d stay; if I didn’t, I’d leave. That was back in ’91.” And Romina
really knows her stuff. After a tour of the grounds, with row upon row of
vines dozing lazily in the afternoon sun, she takes us to the tasting room to
try Trentino’s answer to Champagne, Trentodoc.
Almost immediately I make the mistake of asking if it resembles
Prosecco, and the outraged response I get is enough to teach me my
lesson. No, Trentodoc is not the same as the sparkling wine that we
drink like water in the UK. And, Romina is absolutely right. Firstly, it’s
made differently, using the metodo classico — the same method used to
produce Champagne; lengthier and more laborious, but achieving far
better results. The grapes used — Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot
Meunier — are also the same as those of its French counterpart. And
then there’s the flavour. I’m no wine expert, but even my inexperienced

186 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SPECIAL FEATURE

The air has changed

— the crispness of the
mountains replaced with a
deep, marvellous heat

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP

LEFT: Grape picker at
Maso Poli winery; Piazza
Duomo, Trento; Maso
Poli vineyard; Arte Sella
sculpture park

April 2018 187

SPECIAL FEATURE

There’s a slight breeze,

shoals of wispy clouds
swim through the sky
and I stand hypnotised
by the light dancing on
the surface of the water

IMAGE: CARLO BARON

Lake Garda

188 natgeotraveller.co.uk
 SPECIAL FEATURE

palate can appreciate that Trentodoc is in another league entirely. Light, elegant
and refined, it makes Prosecco feel one-dimensional, flat — ironic, really, as we
drink it for the bubbles.
I try the Siris, followed by a more expensive and even more exceptional bottle
named simply Maso Poli. After my fifth glass, washed down with formaggio
di malga (a soft, creamy, local cheese) and what feels like half a pig’s worth of
speck, I stumble outside, surprised to find it’s still light. The sun is setting
slowly over the vineyard, turning the sky a thick, soupy red as long rays of light
sweep out over the grapes.

The magic touch

The drive to my final stop, Lake Garda, again, takes under an hour — at least, it 10 Miles
should. Road names are spectacularly confusing and the sat nav’s accent leaves Bolzano
much to be desired, but even two hours later, there’s little to complain about.
The drives in Trentino are as inspiring as the destinations. Roads pass under Madonna di PANNEVEGIO FOREST/
Campiglio VAL DI FIEMME
matchstick churches sitting atop massive hills, and through ancient villages
where each street seems to have a story to tell. T r e n t i n o
Trento Borgo
There are 297 lakes in the region, from Levico, which resembles a Norwegian Valsugana
fjord, and Molveno, whose white bottom turns the water a beautiful greeny-
blue, to Garda, the biggest of them all — so big it looks like an ocean. In Trentino
comparison to its flashy cousin, Como — where George Clooney is just one of
Lake ITALY
several celebrities to own a villa — Lake Garda remains curiously uncelebrated.
Garda
Its northern shores are ringed by mountains, while the southern end, which I
eventually reach, is all open-air cafes, gelaterias and pint-sized boats in a
sleepy harbour.
I check into Hotel Benaco, in Torbole, a stone’s throw from the lake, and
after dumping my bag on my bed, make my way down to the shorefront. There’s ESSENTIALS
a slight breeze, shoals of wispy clouds swim through the sky and I stand
hypnotised by the light dancing on the surface of the water. Closer to the pebbly
shore, children paddle, parents sit around on picnic blankets and hardened Getting there & around
tanners slather themselves in carrot oil. Verona is the closest international airport
I wander slowly towards the town centre, passing paintbox houses and to Trentino — Easyjet, Ryanair and British
an eclectic array of gift shops, selling everything from silver trinkets and Airways all fly direct from London. Car hire
gargantuan packets of pasta to clothes proclaiming variations on the message: is the best way to traverse the region.
AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: 2h
‘My dad went to Lake Garda and all I got was this lousy T-shirt.’ There’s a citrusy
tang in the air — the area is surrounded by lemon as well as olive groves — and
When to go
reaching the main square, I sit down outside a cafe with optimum people-
In the mountainous north, winter is cold with
watching potential. When an elderly gentleman pulls up a chair at the adjacent lots of snow, and summer warm. The south,
table, it seems natural to start talking. around Lake Garda has a Mediterranean
Roberto, it turns out, owns an olive grove nearby. It’s been in his family for climate, with mild winters and hot summers.
generations and I note a deep sense of pride in his voice. Olives are obviously
more than a profession for him, and with gnarled hands, long limbs and skin a Places mentioned
light ash brown, he even resembles the trees he loves so much. “When land has campigliodolomiti.it
been in your family for years, it becomes a part of your family and it becomes a visitfiemme.it
part of you, something that will go on after you die,” Roberto says passionately. visitvalsugana.it
gardatrentino.it
“So in that way, my trees make me feel immortal, I suppose.”
artesella.it
My encounter with Roberto moves me, and an hour later, as I walk away,
muse.it
I realise something — Noris hasn’t been the only fairy I’ve encountered. My stay discovertrento.it
here in Trentino has been full of them. Roberto too is possessed of the same
magical essence. The fairies have come in all shapes and sizes, and from all over More info
the region, but they have one thing in common— the land they love so much. I visittrentino.info
can safely say I too have seen the magic.
How to do it
The Trentino Guest Card offers free
admission to hundreds of attractions,
including the Muse Museum and Arte Sella.
Time your trip to Madonna di Campiglio to
coincide with the annual Sounds of the
Dolomites concert, an incredible open-air
musical extravaganza that takes place every
year between July and August, surrounded
by the mountains.

April 2018 189

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STAR LETTER
A love for lakes
Josephine Price’s article about Lake Levico
(Weekender, Jan/Feb 2018) reminded me of
a similar experience I had at Lake Bohinj
in Slovenia. Bohinj is usually overlooked in
favour of its flashier sibling, Bled, but Bohinj
has charm of its own. Just 40 minutes deeper
within the Julian Alps, it feels concealed from
the rest of the country. Mountains, whose
lower slopes are wrapped in spruce and pine,
shore up the cool, blue water. Paths lead up
from the valley to waterfalls and the lake’s
source. I’ve been to Lake Bohinj twice, both
times just before the Slovenes arrived for their
summer holidays. The first time, we stayed in
a spare room in the farming village of Stara
Fužina. The second was an attempt to explore
what we’d missed the first time. Despite those
ambitions, we spent most of our time relaxing
on the shore and bathing in the clearest water
I’ve ever seen. KYLE HOEKSTRA
Chat back
NatGeoTravelUK
What’s your favourite Greek island? #NGTUK
@FRANKIESMYTH Kos – making memories with friends on idyllic beaches, and wandering through the
authentic town centre // @SIMON612 In Aug ‘17 we went to Crete for the first time, at relatively short notice,
not expecting much. Genial hosts, turtle hatchlings, gorgeous Venetian harbour and a giant turtle turned it
into one of best hols ever
Hashtag your Instagram pics with #NGTUK for your chance to be featured on our feed
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Home birds
The feature on 35 Wild Weekends (March
2018) was a delightful read; it really brought
home how much our country has to offer.
Distance makes places seem more exotic, but
a closer look reveals the variety and colour
of experiences near home. I was happy to see
Pembrokeshire make the list. We spent a long
weekend there three years ago and had a great
time coasteering and rock climbing. However,
another deserving entrant would have been
Snettisham RSPB reserve. We visited recently
and were enthralled by the vast V-shaped
formations of pink-footed geese that filled the
skies at dawn. NANDINI CHAKRABORTY
Piece of cake
You can certainly pile on the calories in
Vienna with all that chocolate torte (Eat,
March 2018), but it’s easy to work it off
touring the palaces, museums and fabulous
architecture. But it’s not all stucco facades.
The astonishing Sparkasse (Otto Wagner’s
Postal Savings Bank) dates from 1906 and
its sparkling exterior and top-lit banking
hall look like something out of a 1930s
version of Flash Gordon. Another must-see is
Hofmobiliendepot, the Imperial Furniture
Collection. Once Austria abolished its
monarchy in 1918, many palaces where
stripped of their contents but they found a
new home here, along with a range of furniture
from the Modernist era. KEN WILSON
@faces.of.places @alexisderoode
April 2018 193
GET IN TOUCH

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W I N N E R

1 JOSHUA ARNOLD // LONDON: After an exhausting

15-hour drive from Perth to Exmouth in Western
Australia, this is the spot we chose to set up camp for
the night.

2 LANCE BELLERS // BRIGHTON, SUSSEX: I went to

Newhaven on Boxing Day with my family and thought
I’d try to capture a stormy seascape. They retreated
to the pub while I stuck it out on the beach, but I
managed to shoot this image as the light faded.

3 DEBORAH HART // ISLE OF WIGHT: Despite a wet and

windy weekend, I spotted one of the Isle of Wight’s
resident red squirrels looking pleased with himself.

To find out more about the next theme, enter and

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER APRIL 2018 ISSUE 64 GREEK ISLANDS // NEW ZEALAND // RUSSIA // SOUTH KOREA // MUMBAI // BORDEAUX // MONTREAL // LISBON // ISTANBUL // MIAMI