Cape Banks, Bouldering Thecrag

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  Australia  New South Wales and ACT  Sydney Metropolitan  Eastern Suburbs  Little Bay  Cape Banks 
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Cape Banks All Bouldering  56 routes in sector

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56 Cape Banks
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50 m
300 ft Leaﬂet | © Land and Property Information, NSW
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Description
Overhung Slab Vertical East
The best crag of Little Bay. Bouldering on the Southern tip of the Cape Banks peninsula. Very scenic with crashing waves and often a nice sea
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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing
Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and an-
chors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For
more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
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Approach
Park at the end of Cape Banks Road at the Westpac Lifesaver Helicopter Base and follow the fire trail south. Cross the foot bridge to the Cape and
stay high to get to the South end of the Cape where you walk down a ramp and get to The Big Straight Wall sector or scramble down into the BRAD
sector. Note that the Botany Bay National Park gates close at 20 30.
Tags
Sandstone Walk off New area Sandy
CONTENTS
 The Big Straight Wall
 Suncorp Block
 Cape Town
 ING direct
 The Pyramids
 BRAD sector
 The Banks
 Sunny Side
Routes  Add route(s)  Add topo  Reorder  Bulk edit Convert grades
Route Grade 
THE BIG STRAIGHT WALL Back to contents 


Good sector in high tide and high swell. Good warm ups.
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1 9
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10
2 4
3
5
7
1 ★ CBA Boulder 5m V0
Easiest boulder that goes up the left side of the straight wall.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Jan 2017
2 9 3/4 Bank Boulder V1
another warm-up squeezed in
3 ★ Gringotts Boulder V1
4 ★★ NAB Boulder V0+

5 CitiBank Boulder V1
a worthless bank...
6 ANZ Boulder 5m V1
Where the mantle shelf ends, hop on and hop to jug. Choose your choss holds with care at the topout.
7 Hop Step Banking Corp Boulder V2
Jump start. A touch easier then the original HSBC but takes away all the fun.
FA: Patrick Burr, Mar 2017
8 HSBC Boulder 5m V2
Start just right of the black streak, head left and straight up.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 9 Feb 2017
9 AMP Boulder 5m V1
Up the wide black streak.
FA: Patrick Burr, 9 Feb 2017
10 ★ ABN AMRO Boulder 6m V1
Up the black streak just right of the wide black streak. Slight highball, but gets progressively easier.
SUNCORP BLOCK Back to contents 
Good sector even at high tide and large swell.

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13
14
11
12
11 ★ St George 4m
Boulder V2
Stand start on left jug around corner and slot on face.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 21 Nov 2016
12 ★★ Suncorp 4m
Boulder V3
Start down low on two incut edges then come out and over avoiding jug to the left used for st George start
FA: Joshua hardy, 29 Jan 2017
13 ★★ Bank of China Boulder V3
Start as for Suncorp, go into left jug start of St George and finish up and left on face. Bit sandy on the left arete.
FA: Simon Li, 11 Apr 2017
14 ★ Internet banking Boulder V3
Sitstart left hand as Suncorp, right hand up and around corner. Up to follow the arete. Bit awkward.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Mar 2017
CAPE TOWN Back to contents 

Around the corner heading towards the ocean (East) past ABN AMRO you find the following problems on a large overhanging
boulder.
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16
18 19
20
15
15 Cape Town Boulder 3m V3

Left corner. Sit start on pockets, up through slopers to top out.
16 ★★ Whale of a time 3m
Boulder V4
Start matched on big hole and go up and left to top out near Cape Town
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Jul 2017
17 ★ Whale of a time direct Boulder 3m V5
Start on big hole and straight up.
18 ★ Whale Tail 3m
Boulder V3
Match on big hole to go right and out. Bit crumbly.
19 ★ Beached whale 3m
Boulder V2
Straight up. Bit crumbly. Easiest mantle of the lot
20 ★★ EsCape 3m
Boulder V4
Up through pockets and sloper edge with a reachy move to mantle out.
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22
21 ★★ Blow hole Boulder 3m V1

22 Capers Boulder 3m V1
Up the arete. No stars.
ING DIRECT Back to contents 
Back at The Big Straight Wall, the following routes are on the back of the Suncorp boulder
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24
25
26
23 ★ Westpock Boulder V3
Sit starting on the west face of the boulder, climb up into the comfy pocket and mantle.
FA: Meedu Samaraweera & Bill Zhou
24 ★★ ING Boulder 3m V2
Start matched on undercling and up to large hole on the tip to follow ridge and mantle out left.
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27
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25 ING direct Boulder3m V3

As for ING up to the hole on the tip, then hard mantle.
26 ★★ Reserve Bank 3m
Boulder V2
Sit start on low nose undercling thing.
27 Colonial Bank 3m
Boulder V2
Stand start undercling straight up and mantle.
28
28 ★★ Two Small Gulps Boulder V3

Sit/lie start on small rail. Move up through two pockets to the good rail and top out
FA: Ian Millar, 20 Oct 2018
THE PYRAMIDS Back to contents 
Pyramid shaped boulder hidden away between sectors ING Direct and BRAD Sector
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29
29 ★ Pyramid Principle Boulder 4m V3

Up right fold/groove. Sit start.
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30
30 ★★ Pyramid Scheme Boulder 4m V5

Straight up the centre to top out slightly left of the tip (start with left hand at elbow height and right on arete).
31 Pyramid Scam Boulder 4m V2
Awkward on mini jugs. No stars
BRAD SECTOR Back to contents 
Shaded sector with some great over- that stays shaded and dry (even in high
hanging sloper action. About 20m south swell), and can be accessed from the top
of Pyramid Scheme on a raised platform directly.
36 37
32
33 35
34
32 ★ THIS IS DOGS Boulder 5m V3

Stand start at the flake below S of THIS. Move left, up flake and to jug on rooflet to top out.
33 ★★ IS Boulder 5m V4
Start by pressing up into mini roof under IS, go up and follow seam under roof to the left to top out.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct 2017
34 ★★ BRAD MAM Boulder 5m V2
Sit start up corner, through awkward roof and awkward top out. No stars.
35 ★★ BRAD BRAD Boulder 5m V4
Sit start on the black jug above the B of BRAD and move through FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 2 Feb 2017
slopers under the second BRAD to the jug on the corner. Then a
punchy heel hook up and over.
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39 40
36 ★ BRAD left me Boulder 3m V4

Start matched on BRAD jug. Move up and left on slopers. Avoids the holds of BRAD.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 4 Apr 2017
37 ★ BRAD Boulder 3m V3
Sit start on jug above "B" and straight up above "RAD" through positive slopers to finish on huge white flake.
38 ★★ BRAD is right Boulder V4
Traverse right from BRAD jug and go up at the fat flake. Avoids the holds of BRAD.
39
40
39 SHOER Boulder 3m V4
Start on the pocket below the E of the faint red painted SHOER and the crescent crimper right of the bulge. Powerful first move.
40 ★★★ Run The Line Boulder 3m V7
Sit start on the crescent crimp (shared with SHOER) and the knob FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 6 Sep 2017
to the Right. Move through the line of 4 small slopers on the over-
hang to finish on a dynamic move. Bring a brush as the holds are al-
ways a little sandy.
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41 ★★ DARB 6m
Boulder V5
Sit start at BRAD MAM, go out to jug on BRAD BRAD and traverse back to the BRAD BRAD start hold then up BRAD.
FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 15 Oct 2017
43 42
42 ★ Express Corner Boulder 3m V1

Sit start up the corner next to the slab block left of THIS IS DOGS. The slab also has some very easy warm ups on it.
43 Money change Boulder 3m V2
Sitstart.
44
44 ★★ In the pocket Boulder 4m V2

Nice exposed climb with somewhat poor landings about 5m left of Express Corner. Look for the large pocket on top to topout.
THE BANKS Back to contents 
Walk about 20m west and around the corner from Express Corner to get to the following routes.
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45
45 ★★ Bank Rupt Boulder 4m V1

Sit start on pockets at edge of the platform. Up through jugs and top edge. No top out (sketchy landing).
46 ★★ Break the bank Boulder 4m V3
Sitstart on small sloper, up right to sloping hole, out to large plate and to top out mantle.
47
48
47 Don't Bank On It 4m
Boulder V4
Sit start up through positive holds with a punchy shoulder block last move before the top out.
48 ★★ Bank 4m
Boulder V2
Start as for Don't Bank On It and heel hook your way left, then up and out.
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50 49
53
49 Tyra Banks Boulder 4m V2

Sit start 2m right of the elevated bird bath on slopers and up through the blank section to top out.
50 Ernie Banks Boulder 4m V0
Sit start 1 m right of the bird bath.
51 Piggy Bank Boulder 4m V0
Sit start as for Banked Up, 3m right of bird bath. Heel hook right, then up and out.
52 ★★ Banked Up Boulder 4m V1
Sit start and up through the curved holds.
53
53 ★★★ Resistor Bank Boulder 4m V3

Sitstart 3m left of Banked Up. Follow flakes and top out.
SUNNY SIDE Back to contents 
On the east side of Cape Banks, just further north again is a tiny shell beach
north of the shipwreck is a patch or rea- (flooded at high tide) that is great for a
sonable rock among lots of choss. A little swim.
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55 56
54 ★ Bank Holiday Boulder 4m V2

Start w jug under white patch. Heel hook start and up.
55 Bank it Up Boulder 4m V0
Mantle and go right and up.
56 Banksia Boulder 4m V1
Sit start heel hook to scoop and straight up.
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 Index  Map  Climbers  Forum  Photos  Logbook  Help

Cape Banks All Bouldering  56 routes in sector

Directions in Google Maps

THE BIG STRAIGHT WALL Back to contents 

4 ★★ NAB Boulder V0+

SUNCORP BLOCK Back to contents 

Good sector even at high tide and large swell.

CAPE TOWN Back to contents 

15 Cape Town Boulder 3m V3

21 ★★ Blow hole Boulder 3m V1

25 ING direct Boulder3m V3

28 ★★ Two Small Gulps Boulder V3

THE PYRAMIDS Back to contents 

29 ★ Pyramid Principle Boulder 4m V3

30 ★★ Pyramid Scheme Boulder 4m V5

32 ★ THIS IS DOGS Boulder 5m V3

36 ★ BRAD left me Boulder 3m V4

42 ★ Express Corner Boulder 3m V1

44 ★★ In the pocket Boulder 4m V2

THE BANKS Back to contents 

45 ★★ Bank Rupt Boulder 4m V1

49 Tyra Banks Boulder 4m V2

53 ★★★ Resistor Bank Boulder 4m V3

54 ★ Bank Holiday Boulder 4m V2

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PHOTOS Browse all photos 

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Martijn van Eijkelenborg on ★★ Pyrami…

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