Introduction

LYCRA is a registered trademark used for DUPONT’s elastane fibres. Elastane is a generic
term, like polyamide or polyester. It defines a manmade fibre in which the fibre-forming
substance is a synthetic chain polymer containing at least 85% segmented polyurethane.

LYCRA elastane yarn has outstanding elastic properties – very high stretch and recovery as well
as high power at stretch (modulus). Its other important characteristics include good abrasion
resistance, long wear life, strength, long flex life, resistance to daylight, to weathering, to mildew
and to most chemicals. In addition, LYCRA is white or transparent in its natural state, and it can
be dyed.

LYCRA added to fabrics of non-elastic or “hard” yarns gives them stretch and recovery from
stretch. This property makes them eminently suitable for a wide range of garments, an advantage
which is recognized by the garment users, assuring the success of LYCRA with knitters, weavers
and cutters.

LYCRA in the stretch fabric is knitted or woven under tension. When relaxed, it trends to
compact the fabric length and width to a “jam point”. The “hard” fibre buckles when the fabric is
“jammed”, and it limits the extension of the fabric when it is being stretched. Elastic fabrics are
very often required wider and lighter than their width and weight at “Jam point”. To ensure
complete control of the desired physical changes, the processor must first determine the
parameters of the “jammed” (fully relaxed) fabric, namely
 

  narrowest width, highest weight,

  corresponding wale and course or end and pick counts,
  greatest shrinkage and stretch in length and width.

For this purpose a marked grey sample is boiled for 10-15 minutes, then it is dried relaxed, and
measured. This check is especially important for the development of new fabric styles.

Fabrics containing LYCRA elastane yarn require careful control of processing conditions to
preserve the intrinsic elastic properties of the fibre, while obtaining the required fabric
characteristics. These dyeing and finishing conditions should be chosen with care, because the
performance of LYCRA elastane can be changed by prolonged hot/wet treatments, certain
chemicals, excessive tension and high temperature. It is, therefore, necessary to be fully aware of
the physical changes required to develop the desired weight, width, stability and stretch.

Tension, temperature, concentration of process chemicals and the duration of treatments must be
kept to a minimum, because they affect the elastic properties and the appearance of the finished
goods. In particulars, the tension must be kept to a minimum during those steps which are carried
out at elevated temperatures, i.e. relaxation, hot wet processing, drying and curing. Although the
use of high temperatures and tensions does not degrade LYCRA, fabrics containing it lose some
power when they are hot – stretched and this loss cannot be recovered.
Storage of Grey Fabrics

Most off-loom fabrics stay for some time in the grey room prior to wet processing. Storage
conditions and the handling of greys affect heir quality. Good storage can help, while bad storage
can reduce the quality of the finished fabric.

Grey goods are doffed either in batches or in pieces and these ar sent to the grey room. Stacking
is undesirable, because :
 

  it will obstruct handling of bottom pieces that were stored first,

  the weight and pressure of the stack can use undesired moiré, folds or creases.

It is best to keep the rolls of grey suspended horizontally, one be one, on metal axle-tubes. Light
pieces can be stored individually in boxes.

Storage of grey fabrics must be short to prevent yellowing or decay of LYCRA elastane by hard
yarn finish or machine lubricants that might contain unsaturated fatty acids or fatty esters. The
knitter, weaver, fibre supplier or coning oil producer should make sure by tests that the lubricants
used do not discolour or degrade LYCRA during the normal course of processing.

Before grey goods are put in stock for an extended period, they should be relaxed, thoroughly
scoured and batched up again at controlled low tension (10-20% stretch over relaxed fabric) in
order to remove the winding tension which might cold-set the grey fabric, and to prevent pleats
and creases from setting and becoming permanent.

If lag time is expected between operations, the fabric should be wrapped airtight, chemically
inert covers, ideally black, to protect it from discoloration. This discoloration mostly affects
batch edges and the external upper layers of unprotected fabric.

Finally, it is recommended to avoid storage of grey fabrics for more than two months and to
always dispatch the oldest fabric first, so that the first fabrics into the grey room are first out to
the dyehouse.
 

Chemical Resistance

LYCRA elastane yarn withstands most of the conditions required for wet processing the other
fibres with which it may be combined. However elastane fibres may be sensitive to certain
chemicals used for rigid fabrics.

LYCRA keeps its elastic properties almost intact when subjected to mercerizing, to carbonizing,
to alkaline sourcing at 95OC, to dyeing in strongly acid baths, to peroxide bleaching, to weak
hypochlorite bleaching, to dry cleaning. One type of LYCRA elastane, i.e. LYCRA type 128C,
reacts differently to certain of these agents, as reported in Technical Information Bulletin L-515.
Fabrics containing LYCRA are sensitive to unsaturated oils, greases, fatty acids and their
derivatives, which tend to discolour and to degrade elatane yarns. Such compounds sometimes
serve as lubricants for hard fibres and they vary from one yarn producer to another. Pine oil, used
in printing cutting or barding, can also affect stretch fabrics. It is essential to make sure that these
lubricants, if present, will not discolour or degrade LYCRA during the usual course of
processing. Greys containing LYCRA which need storage for an extended period of time should
be thoroughly scoured and dried to prevent any discoloration or degradation by an unsaturated
finish. Further, the fabrics should be protected from any contact with grease during processing.

In general, the duration of treatments and the concentration of chemicals applied in the wet
process should not exceed the minimum necessary to attain the best performance of the treated
goods. The duration and concentration of bleaching baths, the duration and pH of dye baths, the
duration of solvent scouring, the treatments which involve caustic soda or acids, the selection of
carriers for LYCRA/polyester dyeing, as well as resin curing catalysts and conditions, need
particular attention.

Fumes and other atmospheric pollutants may decrease the initial whiteness of fabrics containing
LYCRA. Long exposure to ultraviolet light has a similar effect. This discoloration occurs more
quickly in some localities than in others, because air pollution and climate vary widely. Such
yellowing does not alter the wear performance of LYCRA, but fabrics or displayed garments
may lose their customer appeal. During storage all fabrics and garments should be wrapped in
chemically inert, airtight packing in order to prevent this effect.

Process Steps

Selection of a particular processing route depends on the desired appearance, the required
performance of the fabric in use and on fabric composition. Stretch textiles include a large
variety of fabrics, each with their particular features, and it is impossible to advise one general
process route for all of them.

A standard discontinuous process suitable for most stretch fabrics comprises :

  Relaxation
Heat – Setting
Scouring
Bleaching / Dyeing / Printing
Finishing

The first two steps involve LYCRA elastane directly and govern the future performance of the
stretch fabric or garment, while the remaining steps must take into account the specific features
of LYCRA in order to retain the best benefits of it.

The above standard sequence may not apply to certain woven fabrics or to hosiery. Different
procedures also apply to continuous processes.

Relaxation

A grey fabric containing LYCRA must be exposed in a relaxed condition to steam, hot water or
warm organic solvent before dyeing and finishing. Relaxation of the grey fabric relieves residual
stresses caused by tension of the LYCRA yarns during kinitting or weaving. These stresses can
distort the structure, deform the design, and cause puckering of the fabric. Such effects show up
especially in clear faced or regularly patterned woven and knitted fabrics. The potential
shrinkage in the grey fabric should also be removed to obtain an evenly dyed and uniformly
finished product.

A stretch fabric is therefore relaxed at an early stage of its finishing by one of the following
methods :

Passing over a steam table

Steam framing
Solvent scouring
Hot water treatment

Steam table relaxation is preferred because complete relaxation can be achieved. The time of
relaxation will depend upon fabric construction and rate of steam generation.

Steam framing consists in overfeeding a fabric over a steam box fixed at the stenter inlet. The
stenter should then only dry the steam relaxed fabric. Combined steam relaxation and heat
setting gives less uniform results than relaxation and heat-setting in separate steps.

Continuous solvent scouring serves to relax and dry clean fabrics at the same time. It provides a
good widthwise relaxation and a controlled lengthwise relaxation of treated fabrics.

Relaxation by hot water occurs when a non heat-set grey fabric is washed or dyed without stress.
This is an efficient way to relax the fabric, but it may leave permanent creases or interfere with
the subsequent heat-setting of the relaxed textile.

Fully relaxed fabrics are stable to washing, but in most cases they are too narrow, too heavy, and
prone to creasing.

HEAT – SETTING
Most fabrics which contain fine LYCRA elastane yarns, in particular knitted fabrics, need heat-
setting to make a textile of satisfactory appearance with an adequate with an adequate
dimensional stability and flatness at a given fabric weight and width.

Grey yard fabrics can be heat-set stretched, if their width is less than the desired finished width.
The off-loom width often exceeds the requirements and the fabric must be narrowed by
relaxation before heat-setting.

Fabrics should be heat-set prior to hot wet processing in order to reduce shrinkage, control
curling, and prevent discolorarion of goods. Setting after the wet process yields fabrics which are
less stable, more curly and less white than the preset ones. Therefore, it is advisable to preset
fabrics with LYCRA.

Heat-setting requires a controlled exposure of fabrics to heat, and flat stenter driers with hot air
blown on to the fabric are commonly used for this purpose. Suitable stenters should allow the
fabric to be evenly heated up to around 200OC for at leat 45 seconds. Precise control of fabric
temperature inside the stenter is vital for good, and consistent, setting. Indirect or electric heating
of stenter air is preferred to heating by gas or oil, because these fuels from gases which can
discolour the fabric. Stenters must comprise a large span overfeed / underfeed device, preferably
coupled with an automatic weight control, to adjust fabric weight and stretch as required. In the
inlet section, the stenter should have an efficient steam box.

The selection of setting conditions is a compromise between many factors, most of them
independent of LYCRA, chosen for a particular fabric. They are

  required weight, width or structure of fabric,

  type of garment to be made,
key feature of the finished fabric, e.g. whiteness, stability, flatness or holding
 
power
  colour of fabric
  type, origin, content, composition and count of hard fibre.
  Lubricant of hard fibre and its sensitivity to heat
  Finishing process and its sequence
  Make, size, heat source and set-up of the stenter

Table 1 shows how the setting temperature and time affect some of these factors.
Table 1. Effect on fabric of heat-set temperature or time.
 
  Property Temp increase Time increae  
Stability
Shrinkage
 Whiteness
Flatness
Power à
Width Þ
Lubricant spots Negl
Uniformity (PA 6) Negl
Setting Cost Negl Þ
 
Negl. = negligible

A small amount of shrinkage still remains in a fabric with LYCRA after heat-setting. For this
reason it should be set 5% to 15% wider than its desired finished width in order to compensate
for some shrinkage expected during wet processing. The actual setting width can be assessed by
mill testing the heat-set efficiency of a fabric (see below). An efficient fabric cooler at the stenter
outlet should fix the set and prevent any unwanted irregular fabric after-setting.

Dry heat in excess of 180OC will be needed to set fabrics which contain LYCRA elastane. Tests
show that such fabrics usually require pre-setting for 30 to 70 seconds at temperatures ranging
from 185OC to 195OC.

Excessive heat exposure will overset the fabric whilst too little heat will leave it underset. Under-
setting of a fabric may lead to more shrinkage and curling, higher weight and narrower width
than expected, whereas oversetting may discolour it, reduce its power too much or impair the dye
uniformity of companion hard fibres.

Saturated steam can also set fabrics with LYCRA. It is mainly applied to hosiery partly set by
boarding, which requires milder conditions, e.g. 30 to 60 seconds at 110-120OC (see technical
information bulletin L-527). Saturated steam applied for 10-15 minutes at 120-130OC will also
set batched piece fabrics. As this technique requires vacuum in an autoclave, and does not ensure
a constant fabric width, it is seldom used.
Further details of heat-setting procedures are contained in specific bulletins (see Technical
Information Bulletins L-523, L-524, L-525, L-528).
 

Heat-Set efficiency

The quality of heat-setting is measured by the heat-set efficiency test. Heat-set efficiency(HSE),
or the retention of fabric heat-set width (HSW), can be checked on the stenter frame at the
working temperature and time, as follows :

Heat-set a fabric sample. Note the width of fabric leaving the stenter, i.e. its heat-set width
(HSW). Boil the sample 5 to 10 minutes in water, then dry it relaxed and check its dry finished
width (FW). The ratio of widths after and before wet relaxation (FW:HWS) indicates heat-set
efficiency (HSE). This figure can then be used to estimate the heat-set width a greige fabric
requires to obtain a given finished width (FW).
For example, a test sample shrinks from 160 cm HSW to 144 cm FW. The required fabric is
152cm. How wide should it be set?

Required HSW value is a good approximation, but will not predict the small width difference
which will come from the subsequent wet processes. For example, the width shrinks more on a
winch than on a beam. Each mill must therefore make its own trials to establish these precise
details.

Sourcing

Efficient removal of yarn lubricants and mill soil by sourcing of grey goods is an important step
towards good dyeing and finishing. It can be done either in aqueous baths or by solvent removal
(dry cleaning).

Although a simple detergent scour is usually sufficient for LYCRA, the actual scour must also
take into account the companion hard fibre.

A typical procedure for scouring synthetics fabrics with LYCRA is given below.

Required HSW value is a good approximation, but will not predict the small width difference
which will come from the subsequent wet processes. For example, the width shrinks more on a
winch than on a beam. Each mill must therefore make its own trials to establish these precise
details.
 

    Set bath at 50OC using soft water, a long liquor to goods ratio (20:1) and add:
0.5g/1 sequestering agent (water softener)
1g/1 trisodium phosphate (TSP) or 2g/1 soda ash
 1-2g/1 non-ionic detergent
 
Circulate bath and heat it to 80OC over 15 minutes. Run 30-45 minutes at 80OC.
Cool to 50OC, drop bath or overflow rinse. Rinse hot and cold until clear and
neutral.

It may be necessary to adjust the amounts of chemicals according to the type of hard
fibre (e.g. cotton ) and / or the nature of mill water.

Heavily soiled grey fabrics should be scoured before heat-setting in a bath

containing TSP and about 5cc/1 of solvent emulsion. The fabric is then scoured
  
again 20 minutes at 80OC in a bath containing about 1g/1 non-ionic detergent /
emulsifier to remove residues of solvent from the fabric. Persistent solvent odours
can be removed by heating this bath to boiling point. Adequate ventilation is
essential to prevent unsafe concentration of solvent vapours in the dyehouse. Failure
to remove all flammable solvent from the fabric will cause a fire hazard in
subsequent drying.

Technical Information Bulletins L-523 and L-525 contain more details on scouring
relevant to particular fabric types.

Bleaching and Whitening

Bleaching is often desirable for elastic fabrics containing LYCRA and other fibres. Since the
base colour of LYCRA is satisfactory for most end-uses, bleaching is either a matter of
whitening companion fibres without yellowing the LYCRA, or removing from LYCRA the
discoloration caused by atmospheric fumes.

The whiteness of “LYCRA” fabrics can be enhanced by:

    reducing scour
    reducing bleach
    optical whitening

Reducing scour

The method can be used to improve the natural whiteness of LYCRA in a grey fabrics. A typical
procedure is as follows :

Set bath at 50OC with

1-2g/1 non-ionic detergent
1g/1 trisodium phosphate (or2g/1soda ash)
3-5 g/1 sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite)
Heat to 75-80OC. Treat 45-60 minutes at this temperature. Cool and drop bath. Run 15 minutes
in a fresh bath containing :

0.5 ml/1 hydrogen peroxide 35%

Rinse cold.

Reducing Bleach
This technique applies more reducing chemicals and exerts a stronger bleaching action on a
fabric containing LYCRA than the reducing scour.

Set bath at 50OC

Add 5 to 10 g/1 sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite)
5 to 10 g/1 sodium metabisulfite

Heat to 80-85OC. Treat 45-60 minutes at this temperature. Cool, drop bath and rinse. Treat 15
minutes in a fresh bath with :

0.5 ml / hydrogen peroxide 35%

The reducing scour or reducing bleach methods also provide a good base white for application of
fluorescent brightening agents (FBA) to fabrics containing LYCRA.

Bleaching with peracetic acid, the use of chorine-containing bleaches such as sodium
hypochlorite, calcium hypochlorite, or sodium chlorite could yellow and / or degrade the
LYCRA elastane fibre and should therefore be avoided.

Hydrogen peroxide bleaching of cellulosic fabrics is current practice for LYCRA, except for type
128OC (see Technical Information Bulletin L-525)

Optical Whitening
Fluorescent brightening agents (FBA) alone, or combined with tints, will impart the desired “
high white” to fabrics finished in white or prepared for printing. The choice of FBA must be
made with due care to provide fabrics :
- with high whiteness
- with adequate fastness to light, washing and pool water
- which do not turn yellow due to light or fumes
- withstand the conditions of fabric processing e.g. a reducing bath or dry heat.
The selection of brightening agent must suit both the LYCRA and the hard fibre in the fabric.

For best results the whitener should be applied from a reducing bath, in combination with a
stabilized hydrosulfite, e.g. Blankit IN (BASF) or Clarit PS (Cica-Geigy) at a pH of about 5.5.

Table 2 lists fibres which can be bleached or whitened in the presence of LYCRA.

Table 2. Bleaching / Whitening fabrics containing LYCRA

Optimum whiteness retention

To obtain the most durable white on fabrics of LYCRA, it is recommended to use FBAs fast to
light and air pollutants, as well as a maximum amount of tint commensurate with customer shade
acceptance.

The following conditions may cause loss of whiteness retention, and should be avoided:
- unsatisfactory fluorescent brightener
- drying with air heated by combustion (gas or oil)
- unsatisfactory softeners
- noxious fumes in the dyehouse atmosphere
- poor storage of white fabrics or garments, namely :
 

  excessive fumes (nitrogen oxides, burnt gas fumes)

  excessive light, either natural or artificial
  lack of airtight and inert packaging
  packaging which releases phenolic derivatives.
DYEING
LYCRA has affinity for many types of dyes. Acid, chrome, premetallized, disperse, and leuco
vat dyes, as well as some reactive dyes and a few direct, sulphur and vat dyes, can all be used for
dyeing LYCRA to varying degrees. Premetallized, sulphur and vat dyes exhibit good light and
wash fastness as well as good colour build-up. Chrome dyes lack colour brilliance and, in some
shades, light fastness is inadequate for outerwear goods. Disperse dyes give good results in pale
shades, but their wet fastness in full shades is limited. However, many clolur fastness standards
can be met, when the percentage of LYCRA is low.

Table 3 lists various classes of dyes and their properties on LYCRA (see limitations for LYCRA
T128C in table 5)

Fabrics which contain LYCRA T-128C must not be dyed with sulphur, vat or chrome dyes, most
reactive and most cationic dyes, because this “LYCRA” type is sensitive to strongly acid (pH ≤
4) or strongly alkaline baths (pH ≥ 10)

Table 3 Coloration of LYCRA by dye type

Rating : VG = Very good, G = Good , F = Fair, P = Poor

Many acid dyes give an acceptable all-round fastness on LYCRA, but the faster dye strike and
heavier build-up on its companion yarn can cause the dull LYCRA to grin through in dyed
fabric. Bright and clear LYCRA yarns have greatly improved the colour wet fastness of stretch
fabrics. These yarns are virtually invisible and do not grin through in the finished fabric, hence
they can be left undyed. The choice of dyestuffs can thus best suit the companion hard fibre, if
these dyes are compatible with the chemical and physical properties LYCRA. Table 4 lists hard
fibres used in stretch textiles with LYCRA and the dye classes suitable to colour such fabrics
(not applicable to “LYCRA” T-128C)
Table – 4. Dyeing fabric containing LYCRA (except T-128 C)

X = Suitable, S = Selected dyes suitable

LYCRA T-128C does not withstand certain chemicals and certain dyes procedures compatible
with other LYCRA types. Table 5 gives the dye / fibre combinations suitable for stretch fabrics
which contain “LYCRA” T-128C.

Table – 4. Dyeing fabric containing LYCRA T-128 C

X = Suitable, S = Selected dyes suitable

Dyeing fabrics of LYCRA combined with nylon, cotton, cellulosic, wool or silk is
straightforward because :

- many dyes are suitable to colour them with good fastnes,,

- bath temperatures of 100OC or less, needed to dye these fibres, do not affect LYCRA,
- There are LYCRA products suitable for either acid or alkaline dye baths.

Fabrics of acetate or chlorofibre and “LYCRA” are also easy to dye using disperse dyes, but the
wet fastness of medium to dark shades is moderate to poor.

Regular acrylic / LYCRA fabrics can be dyed to a complete range of fast shades using :

- selected cationic dyes which reserve LYCRA

- LYCRA of clear or bright luster

Good light fastness and easy application of certain disperse dyes make them useful for dyeing
LYCRA / acrylics to pastel and light shades. Disperse dyes should not exceed 0.5% on the fabric
weight to prevent bleeding and poor wash fastness.

Acid-dyeable acrylics require dyeing with chrome or 1:1 premetallized dyes for good wet
fastenss in full shades. This precludes the use of LYCRA T-128 C in such fabrics.

Polyester, triacetate and LYCRA dye with the same disperse dyes, but under very different
conditions. Fabrics of polyester and LYCRA or triacetate and LYCRA are therefore difficult to
dye without affecting the elastic properties of the fabric.

Polyester need bath temperatures of 120-130OC for adequate dye depth, but such baths overset
the elastane and excessively reduce the power of the fabric. Dye baths of about 100OC do not
affect LYCRA, but the polyester then requires dye carriers which also tend to weaken the
tenacity and power retention of LYCRA. Aromatic acid esters cause limited LYCRA
degradation, chlorobenzes and biphenyls cause a little more, whilst phenolic carriers are the most
aggressive.

Stretch textiles often contain three fibres, for example LYCRA elastane, nylon and cotton or
LYCRA, polyester and wool. The chosen dye procedure then has to compromise between the
dyeing properties of all the components, the available dyes, and the required colour fastness of
the fabric. Tables 4 & 5 outline the existing choice of dye types.

Table – 6. Stripping fabrics containing LYCRA (except T – 128 C)

X = In general, can be stripped,  S = Only selected dyes can be stripped.

STRIPPING
Fabrics of LYCRA sometimes need stain removal or stripping if they are dyed unevenly, too
dark or are stained. The elastane component of the fabric imposes restraints on the selection of
suitable stripping agents.

Reducing agents do not degrade “LYCRA” elastane fibre and are therefore recommended.
Alkaline reducing baths are preferred, whenever compatible with the type of “LYCRA” and the
hard fibre in the fabric. Dye stripping by compounds whicyh release chlorine, such as
hypochlorite or chlorite, will weaken and degrade the elastane fibre and is unsuitable.

Some recommended procedures are given below

Colour correction or light satin removal :

  1g / 1non – ionic surfactant

  1-2g / 1 trisodium phosphate (TSP)
  15-20 minutes at 85OC
   
Partial stripping or removal of medium stains :
  1-3 g/1 Sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite)
   1-2 g/1 TSP
  15-20 minutes at 85OC
   
Table – 7. Stripping fabrics containing LYCRA T-128C

X = In general, can be stripped, S = Only selected dyes can be stripped.

Alkaline stripping

  5% sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde

  1% amphoteric dispersing agent
  Sodium hydroxide to pH 10-11
  45 minutes at 90-95OC, then soap and rinse the fabric to neutral pH.
Acid stripping
  1% zinc sulphoxylate formaldehyde
  1% amphoteric dispersing agent
  Adjust bath to pH 5 if needed
  Treat 45 minutes at 85OC, then soap and rinse till fabric pH is neutral.
  A complete colour strip, usually followed by redyeing, represents extra processing of the stretch
fabric which may weaken it and impair its subsequent performance in use.

The suggested stripping procedures do not suit all dye types, hard fibres or LYCRA types, as
shown in Tables 6 and 7.

PRINTING
A large proportion of nylon/LYCRA tricot fabrics for swimwear and activewear as well as
various circular knits and wovens for outerwear are printed. Such prints are produced by flat bed,
hand, rotary screen methods or by wet transfer techniques. Dry heat transfer printing is usually
limited to fabrics of polyester and LYCRA.

LYCRA is always used as the lesser weight component accompanying the hard fibre, and is
hidden in the fabric. The printing technique should be therefore chosen for the hard fibres only,
providing they

- do not affect the stretch properties of the fabric

- do not degrade the LYCRA not impair subsequent garment performance
- do not distort the printing pattern
- yield uniform colours.

Direct printing

Stretch fabrics are more difficult to handle mechanically than comparable “rigid” fabrics
containing only hard fibres. Before printing, the fabric should be adequately scoured and heat-set
as described earlier in this bulletin. Insufficient scouring and lack of stable dimensions can cause
uneven colour development and pattern distortion. The fabric should be laid fully relaxed on to
the printing table or machine, using an efficient adhesive to keep it securely fixed on the table
during print colour application.

LYCRA can degrade with excessive steam ageing of printed fabrics. The temperature in cottage
steamers should not exceed 104OC (equal to 15 kPa or 0.2 kg / cm2 steam pressure) during 30-
60 minutes, to maintain the properties of LYCRA. These precautions also apply to continuous
steaming which must be carried out tension – free in loop steamers. Continuous high temperature
steaming is used for polyester or triacetates combined with LYCRA. Suitable conditions for such
treatment (about 8 minutes at 160OC in loop steamer) must be established by preliminary trials.

Fabrics printed with substantive dyes need soaping to remove residual chemical and unfixed
colour. Washing vessels must not be overloaded since this makes the scour inefficient and could
cause pattern distortion or fabric deformation from tgling. The scoured fabric should be dried
with overfeed on a pin-stenter in order to finish it with stable dimensions. Its drying temperature
should not exceed 150OC to avoid excessive exposure to heat.

Heat transfer printing

The technique is mainly confined to tricot fabrics of polyester and LYCRA. Preprinted paper
transfer patterns to the fabric by sublimation of dyes during exposure to head in a calendar or
press. Ease of application with no need for afterwash, quick chane of patterns, and absence of
fabric waste make this method of printing attractive. However, lower colour wet fastness and
duller shades than those of direct prints with acid dyes limit its suitability for tricot fabrics
containing nylon.

Soaping of transfer printing fabric – although not essential – improves its handle, fastness, and
physical properties. Time and temperature used for head transfer should be sufficient to transfer
the colours, yet stay as short and low as possible to minimize changes in fabric properties. The
best conditions for both satisfactory printing and adeque performance of the printed fabric should
be established by testing.

FINISHING
Finishing concerns handle, look and dimensions, and can impart special properties to fabric
containing “LYCRA”. It comprises both mechanical and chemical treatments which all require
careful control applied tension, temperature time and chemicals.
 

Mechanical finishing

Mechanical finishing includes the steps either before or after dyeing and printing which change
the physical features of a fabric. The methods chosen to finish a fabric containing LYCRA
should, in general involve little or no tension, particularly when the treated fabric is hot (except
for heat-setting). The joint action of high tension and heat may reset or overset the fabric and
cause loss of its final elasticity. Low tension allows the best relaxation, improves dimensional
stability, and gives a supple handle to the goods. Fabrics that have been overstretched in
processing tend to relax afterwards causing difficulties in cutting, and high or irregular shrinkage
of garments.

LYCRA will withstand without undue damage most of the mechanical finishes applied to rigid
textiles, namely :
 
  mangle or spin dry
  dry
  steam relax or London shrink
  compressive – shrink
  semidecate or decate
  press or Palmer-press
  raise, sand or suede
  crop
  calendar or emboss
Key rules to follow are “do not stretch hot fabric” and “no tension for long periods”.
Technical Information Bulletins L-523, L-525, L-528 give details concerning specific
fabric types. Drying is considered in this bulletin, because this treatment applied to all
piece fabrics.

DRYING

Hot air drying, usually on pin stenters with overfeed, removes non-extracted water
and establishes the final width and weight of the fabric.

Temperatures should not exceed 150OC when drying stretch fabrics. The time to
drying and the resultant speed of fabric passage, will depend on the weight and
structure of the fabric, but should not be longer than the minimum needed to dry it.
Heating should be uniform over the entire fabric and overdrying must be avoided s it
may slightly yellow the fabric. The risk of yellowing is increased when the drying air
is heated directly with oil or gas burners.

The same advise also applied to drying required to fix or develop and chemical
finishes on fabrics of LYCRA.

Chemical finishing

Fabrics containing LYCRA withstand many chemical treatments or finishes which

serve to change or improve their look, surface, handle, performance or their
properties. LYCRA also withstands mercerizing and light corboniztion. LYCRA is
compatible with many
 
   antistats
  softeners
  water repellents
  resin finishes for easy care, when used with organic catalysts
  resin finishes to impart body, when used with organic catalysts
  rot-proofing agents
  coating finishes in emulsion

Since the range of finishing agents available and their combination in finishing formulae is
enormous, all their possible applications and effects are beyond the scope of this bulletin.
Different types of LYCRA elastane also have varying resistance to finishing chemicals, as shown
in Table 8. Finishing agents should therefore be selected by careful preliminary testing.

Further information on chemical finishing of specific fabric types is contained in Technical

Information Bulletins L-523, L-525 and L-528.

Table 8. Finishing agents applicable to fabrics containing LCYRA

Evaluation and Testing

In addition to all the requirements current for rigid fabrics, a stretch fabric must also provide an
elastic performance which is measured by :

Modulus or power developed by stretching the fabric (checked at certain

 
extensions that most closely resemble the stress in garment use)
  Ultimate elongation
  Recovery from stretch
     
These properties reflect the performance expected from different types of stretch garments. DU
PONT recommends guidelines for different elastic fabrics to ensure that stretch textiles
containing LYCRA are of high quality and performance. Such guidelines giving the
recommended elastic properties, and indicating the LYCRA content in fabric necessary to meet
them, are included in Technical Information Bulletins L-521 to L-528.