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Rampuri Cuisine (Devansh Siyagh)
Rampuri Cuisine (Devansh Siyagh)
Rampuri Cuisine (Devansh Siyagh)
DEVUM KAPOOR
DEVANSH SIYAGH
ROLL NO 140596
Bachelor of Science
In
Hospitality & Hotel Administration
Under the guidance of Mr. Gauri shankar (Faculty IHMCT & AN)
Place :Chennai
Devansh Siyagh
BONAFIDE CERTIFICATE
Abstract
Chapter 1: Introduction
1.1 Rampuri Cuisine
1.2 Nutritional Aspect
Chapter 2:
2.1 RAMPUR (U.P)
2.2 Geographical features
2.3 Culture, Music, Architecture and Festivals
2.4The rise and revival of the ancient Rampuri cuisine
2.5 Varieties of Rampuri Cuisine
2.6 Famous Dishes
2.7 Experiences of different people with Rampuri Cuisine
2.8 Awadhi Cuisine
2.9 Mughlai Cuisine
References
Chapter 1
Introduction
celebrating some unique aspect of that community and its traditions, often marked as
a local or national holiday, mela or eid. Festivals often serve to meet specific
The Rampuri cuisine that we talk about and label as such is essentially a “courtly
cuisine” — blending influences from Awadhi, Mughalai, Rajput, Afghani and other
kitchens.
Though Rampur as a region has a rich and varied history of people of different
ethnicities coming and settling here — as part of the larger territory of Delhi initially
and then Lucknow. It is only post 1857, when the nawab sided with the British, that
the principality came into its own. Rampur became a stable princely state. An
evolved cuisine seems to have been a natural outcome of royal visitors, who came
cuisines of India are often a part of festivals and menus, the cuisine of Rampur is
one of the most unexplored royal cuisines in India. However, according to Chef
Rehman Mujabeer the royal cuisine of Rampuri Nawabs is no less historical &
The area around Rampur has always been coveted for its agricultural wealth. When
Afghan Pathans came in hordes from almost barren mountains into the plains of
South Asia they had first served as warriors in the armies of the Delhi Sultanate
founded in the early 13th century. Once the rulers had consolidated their power in
the new capital city of Delhi, armies branched out into the lush countryside to
conquer some more fertile fields bursting with grains and pulses of a thousand
From warriors, these people gradually settled as landowners, the more powerful
amongst them later declaring themselves masters and lording over those with none,
or lesser assets.
The Jalali Pathans enjoy a somewhat similar history although the family did not
make it to the throne of Rampur. Before settling down in the plains, the Jalalis too
must have had wholesome lakshari meals in the tradition of nomadic armies used to
preparing and consuming food in a hurry. As the same warriors settled down to a
more permanent lifestyle and changed their profession from fighters to farming, they
found enough leisure to make exciting experiments in all aspects of life, including
eating.
Over time the mostly barbecued meat of animals slaughtered after a hunt by the
warriors was marinated and cooked in a tenderizer like pulped raw papaya, or
yoghurt. Often a variety of vegetables and sometimes whole grains and spices
available in such abundance around the fertile fields of this part of the Indo Gangetic
plains were also thrown into meat pots, to produce the most magical meals found on
People continued to feast and to fast here till Rampur was declared a British
protectorate in the late 18th century. Its rulers were expected to fight even less
battles then and used the wealth generated from the agricultural produce around
them to concentrate on high living, leaving colonialists to fight their dirty wars for
them. This relief from military responsibility provided ample time to both the people
and princes of Rampur to perfect finer things in life like poetry, literature, entertaining
Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It was formerly known for its various industries,
including sugar refining and cotton milling. Its library has more than 12,000 rare
of India, the Rampur District is one of several Muslim majority districts on the basis
amenities indicators.
Originally it was a group of four villages named Kather, the name of Raja Ram
Singh. The first Nawab proposed to rename the city 'Faizabad'. But many other
places were known by the name Faizabad so its name was changed to Mustafabad
alias Rampur.
Center: Jama Masjid Rampur, Clockwise from top : Rampur Railway Station; Mohammad Ali
Jauhar University; Rampur Raza Library; Aryabhatt Planetarium; Gandhi Samadhi; Bab e
Nijaat
2.2 Geographical features
south. It is home to farms that cover long stretches of land. During rainy season just
after a long period of rain the mountain ranges of Nainital can be seen in the north
direction.
During Summers the temperature is usually from 43 °C to 30 °C and during
Winters it is from 25 °C to 5 °C.
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr Ma Jun Jul Au Sep Oct No Dec Year
y g v
Average 17.1 20.5 25.6 32.4 31. 31. 29. 29. 29. 27. 24. 20 26.1
high °C (62.8) (68.9 (78.1 (90.3 4 7 5 4 1 8 7 (68) 6
(°F) ) ) ) (88. (89. (85. (84. (84. (82) (76. (79.0
5) 1) 1) 9) 4) 5) 9)
Average 7 9.1 11.2 15.7 17. 17. 19. 21. 19. 13. 12. 8 15.5
low °C (°F) (45) (48.4 (52.2 (60.3 4 7 2 5 2 2 1 (46) 8
) ) ) (63. (63. (66. (70. (66. (55. (53. (60.0
3) 9) 6) 7) 6) 8) 8) 4)
Average p 18.2 24.5 12.1 12.4 21. 99. 168 207 99. 27. 6.1 9.0 58.5
recipitatio (0.717) (0.96 (0.47 (0.48 6 1 .1 .1 3 1 (0.2 (0.3 (2.30
n mm 5) 6) 8) (0.8 (3.9 (6.6 (8.1 (3.9 (1.0 4) 54) 3)
(inches) 5) 02) 18) 54) 09) 67)
Source: WWO
2.3 Culture, Music, Architecture and Festivals
2.3.1 Culture
Rampur is considered as third school of poetry after Delhi and Lucknow. Many
prominent and legendary urdu poets of the time like 'Dagh', 'Ghalib' and 'Ameer
Minaee' joined the patronage of Rampur court. Nawabs of Rampur were very fond of
poetry and other fine arts. They provided remunerations to the poets who were
associated with ' darbar.' Nizam Rampuri earned great name as poet. In addition,
Shad Aarifi was another famous poet from Rampur who evolved modern ghazal in a
Faraz'and 'Azhar Inayati' represent Rampur School of poetry all over the world.
2.3.2 Music
Wazir Khan, the descendant of Naubat Khan, was the chief musician and master of
Ameer Khan beenkar was the most important musician of Nawab Kalb Ali
Khan court.Bahadur Hussain Khan beenkar uncle of Wazir Khan was the chief
court musicians. Ustad Mehboob Khan, was a khayal singer and Veena player of the
Rampur court; his son Ustad Inayat Hussain Khan (1849–1919), who trained and
2.3.3 Architecture
The Rulers of Rampur have had distinct impact on the architecture of the region. The
the buildings are very old and have been built over repeatedly in course of time.
One of the most well designed monument is the Fort of Rampur (It also houses
the Raza Library or Hamid Manzil, the former palace of the Rulers. It has a sizable
resembles the jama masjid in Delhi to some extent and has a beautiful interior. It was
built by Nawab Faizullah Khan. It has a unique mughal touch to it. There are several
entry-exit gates to the masjid. It has three big domes and four tall minarets with gold
pinnacles boasting of a royal touch. It has a main lofty entrance gate that has an
inbuilt clock tower occupied by a big clock that was imported from Britain.
There are several entry-exit gates built by the Nawab. These gates are major entry-
exit routes from the city. Examples are Shahbad Gate, Nawab Gate, Bilaspur Gate
etc.
2.3.4 Festivals
Religious practices are as much an integral part of everyday life and a very public
affair as they are in the rest of India. Therefore, not surprisingly, many festivals are
religious in origin although several of them are celebrated irrespective of caste and
are Diwali, Holi and Vijayadashami, Mahashivaratri, Ram Navmi, Basant
Say Rampur, and one in all likelihood be reminded of Rampuri Chaaku of Bollywood
fame (the long, foldable switchblade that the villain would often carry, and which the
Indian government had to ban after Dawood Ibrahim became big). The town, which
was once home to poets like Mirza Galib, is today a relatively obscure place in
India’s modern geographical layout. But this was not always the case. There was a
time when Rampur, a free kingdom tucked behind the lush boundaries of Lucknow,
was the place to be in for every artist, chef and littérateur. Thanks to the effort of one
royal: Nawab Faizullah Khan and his loyalty towards the British.
The story goes that after losing Bareilly, Nawab Faizullah Khan established Rampur
(erstwhile Mustafabad) in 1774 under the British protection as the Rohilla kingdom.
Though the treaty ensured that the Nawab, and his successors, would never find a
place in the history books of glory, it did make Rampur a safe haven to migrate for
In fact, post 1858, Rampur rose in prominence as the ‘varsity’ for most of the royal
khansamas from the Mughal and other royal courts, who unable to find work and the
artistic liberties they were used to in the royal court, migrated to this 17 gun salute
many cuisines, importantly the Mughlai, Afghani, Lucknowi, Kashmiri and Awadhi
cuisine.
With so many specialty chefs at their disposal, the Nawabs finally began developing
their own cuisine, which till the time was predominantly pasthun style. In other words,
meat heavy, made with less of spice and mostly grilled. The royal kitchens of
Rampur worked on a format that was the norm those days. So an expert of rice
would only work on rice recipes and not meat, and vice versa. However, the Nawabs
would often encourage them to explore and create new things, which allowed them
to step into each other’s territories and create wonders. The result were signature
dishes like the Meethe Chawal. A rice preparation where twice the quantity of
sugar/sugarcane juice was used to create a sweet pilaf that had the texture of
biryani. You could throw the rice on the floor and it would spill out like pearls.
The
Raza Library, once a royal residence, today is the largest, richest collection of
ancient manuscripts, especially from Persia, Iran, Afghanistan and China. (Source:
Wikipedia)
Pulao Marmareed, a rice dish made with garlic cloves that are rendered shiny and
almost sweet in the process of cooking, giving the dish its name—a pulao with pearls
— was another. But the most exotic was the dal khichada. This simple sounding dish
was in fact made of rice and lentil kernels carved out of almonds and pistachios.
Such was the artistry required in this dish that even the Nawab had to inform at least
two days in advance for the dish to be prepared. And yet the Nawab didn’t have the
liberty to ask for more than what was served, which was done by the chef who
prepared it.
The doodhiya biryani was yet another example of culinary excellence. The biryani
characterised by its white colour used milk to create a biryani that looked like white
sheet, and was one of the few dishes that were served by the chef who used his
palm as ladle. Old court documents show that using the hand as ladle to serve
dishes, especially the vegetarian shorbas and curries were commonplace, as it was
believed that such serving helps enhance the flavour of a dish. Of course from the
chef point of view this was an excellent way to ensure that the portion sizes were
Yet another interesting fact about the cuisine was the use of spice blends. The
Rampuri Chaat Masala for instances uses more ginger compared to the Delhi Chaat
Masala; the Rampuri Korma—unlike regular ones with a white gravy rich in cashew
nuts—is identified by its red gravy, which is not due to red chillies but tomatoes.
In fact, the royal kitchens were famous for using ingredients like lotus seeds, banana
flower, khus ki jhad (roots) and sandalwood to give their dishes a unique flavour. The
first iteration of kele ka kebab, kathal ke seekh and alu ke kebab was introduced in
the Rampuri court before it made its way to the other courts of India much like the
famous adrak ka halwa. Folklore has it that one of the descendants of Nawab Khan
But due to the sharp taste, the Nawab would often avoid it and find excuses to skip
it. That’s when the royal sweetmakers were entrusted with the work of bringing out a
more palatable way of feeding the Nawab his quota of ginger. The chefs worked
relentlessly, and after a week presented their dish, which was placed nonchalantly
between the regular lunch buffet. It was a general practice those days to be discreet
with any new innovation. If, in spite of that, it caught the Nawab’s attention, the dish
was worked on and then the final dish was presented in a ceremony that was akin to
the Master Chef competition today. So after a week, the Nawab was presented with
the dish in a similar manner. Enticed by the unusual colour, the Nawab asked for the
dish twice before he was told that it was adrak. But by then the Nawab had taken a
liking to the dish and it became one of the royal favourites, much like the mirch ka
halwa, which came a few years after ginger and reached the Bhopal court. Many
believe that the do pyaza dishes that use browned as well as raw onions came from
the kitchens of Rampur, where onions were used both to give the dish a sweet and
sharp taste.
Innovative usage of ingredients was a forte of the chefs of Rampur. The usage of
bottlegourd and papaya to tenderize meat for kebabs and curries first began in
Rampuri kitchen, and also the use of varq. The famous sweetmeat garnish today
was put to clever use in the Rampuri court, where instead of the parda (made of
maida), which was present in the Mughal court, silver or gold varq were used to
serve dishes. This had a dual purpose: first to keep the dish warm and moist, and
two, it ensured that the dish wasn’t tampered with. Such was the finesse of the varq
used in the kitchen that even the slightest touch would tell that the dish has been
So how does one really differentiate between Rampuri cuisine and others? With
most of the surviving khansamas or chefs unwilling to part with their family recipes,
most of the dishes served today are interpretation of the few individuals who have
effective. Unlike the hot spices of Old Delhi; sourness of Hyderabadi food and
ginger,onions and a mix of javitri (mace) and jaiphal (nutmeg) and khus roots. And
then of course some are identified by the names like the Sabz Akbari was named
after the famous Mughal Emperor and his nine gems, the Noorjahani Datia is said to
be an ode to the famous queen and the now extinct Kebab e Faizullah was to the
Nawab itself. It is said that the meat was kept medium rare given the Nawabs love
for meat.
As per medieval history Rampur was the part of Delhi and was divided
it was known by the name Kather and was ruled by Katheria Rajputs. The Katheria
Rajputs fought for about 400 years with the rulers of Delhi and later with Mughals.
Jalaluddin Firoz in 1290, Firoj Shah in 1379 & Sikander Lodhi in 1494. In the
Rohillas were defeated and driven from their former capital of Bareilly by the Nawab
of Oudh with the assistance of the East India Company's troops. The Rohilla State of
Faizullah Khan
Nawab Faizullah Khan laid the first stone of the new fort at Rampur and thus
Rampur city was founded in 1775. Originally it was a group of four villages named
Kather, the name of Raja Ram Singh. The first Nawab proposed to rename the city
'Faizabad'. But many other places were known by the name Faizabad so its name
was changed to Mustafabad alias Rampur. Nawwab Faizullah Khan ruled for 20
years. He was a great patron of scholarship, and began the collection of Arabic,
Persian, Turkish and Urdu manuscripts which now make up the bulk of the Rampur
Raza Library. After his death his son Muhammad Ali Khan took over, but he was
killed by the Rohilla leaders after 24 days, and Ghulam Muhammad Khan, the
brother of the deceased, was proclaimed Nawab. The East India Company took
exception to this, and after a reign of just 3 months and 22 days Ghulam Muhammad
Khan was defeated by its forces. The Governor-General made Ahmad Ali Khan, son
of the late Muhammad Ali Khan, the new Nawab. He ruled for 44 years. He did not
have any sons, so Muhammad Sa'id Khan, son of Ghulam Muhammad Khan, took
over as the new Nawab. He raised a regular Army, established Courts and carried
out many works to improve the economic conditions of farmers. His son Muhammad
Yusuf Ali Khan took over after his death. His son Kalb Ali Khan became the new
Nawab in 1865.
Nawab Kalb Ali Khan was literate in Arabic and Persian. Under his rule, the state did
much work to uplift standards of education. He was also a Member of Council during
the Viceroyalty of Lord John Lawrence. He built the Jama Masjid in Rampur at a cost
of Rs. 300,000. He was also knighted in Agra by the Prince of Wales. He ruled for 22
years and 7 months. After his death his son Mushtaq Ali Khan took over. He
appointed W. C. Wright as the Chief Engineer of the state and built many new
buildings and canals. Nawab Hamid Ali became the new ruler in 1889 at the age of
14. Many new schools were opened during his reign, and lots of donations were
1905 he built the magnificent Darbar Hall within the Fort which now houses the great
collection of Oriental manuscripts held by the Rampur Raza Library. His son Raza Ali
Khan became the last ruling Nawab in 1930. On 1 July 1949 the State of Rampur
was merged into the Republic of India. Rampur today presents a slightly decayed
appearance: the palaces of the Nawabs are crumbling, as are the gates and walls of
the fort. However, the Library remains a flourishing institution of immense value to
Independence in 1857, and this enabled them to continue to play a role in the social,
political and cultural life of Northern India in general and the Muslims of the United
Provinces in particular. They gave refuge to some of the literary figures from the
Post independence
Ali Khan Bahadur of Rampur. Begum Noor Bano, the widow of the former Nawab,
Zulfiquar Ali Khan of Rampur. Begum Noor Bano has become a politician and won
the election from Rampur parliamentary constituency in 1999. She lost the elections
in 2004,2009 from Rampur and 2014 from Moradabad consecutively. Murtaza Ali
Khan and Zulfiquar Ali Khan (aka Mikki Mia), who continued to use the title of Nawab
as a token even after independence and abolition of royalty but never ruled Rampur,
are now dead. Murtaza Ali contested an election from Rampur opposite his mother
Rafat Jamani Begum in 1972 and won. Although the two brothers were always
political rivals they never faced each other in elections. Subsequently, the family was
also involved in smuggling scandals involving some smuggling from Pakistan, where
one of the sons of Murtaza Ali is married. Raza Inter College, Hamid Inter College
and Murtaza Inter College are three higher secondary schools named after three
nawabs.
Nawab of Rampur Yusef Ali Khan and his family on elephants scorted by Rampurian and
British troops to the encampment of Lord Canning
October 1960), is an Indian politician and the present titular Nawab of Rampur. The
eldest son of Zulfikar Ali Khan Bahadur, he succeeded his father as titular Nawab
upon the latter's death in 1992. He was educated at Chandigarh University where he
took a Bachelor of Arts degree and at Columbia University where he took a Master of
Raza Library Board in Rampur from 1993 to 2002. From 1996 to 2004, Muhammad
Corporation.
2.5 Varieties of Rampuri Cuisine
Rampuri cuisine is a distinguished subject for table talk; its big dishes — the taar
qorma, sambhal ke seekh, the home-style urad gosht and lauki gosht — known to
just a few connoisseurs but connoisseurs nevertheless. The Rampuri cuisine that we
talk about and label as such is essentially a "courtly cuisine" — blending influences
Though Rampur as a region has a rich and varied history of people of different
ethnicities coming and settling here — as part of the larger territory of Delhi initially
and then Lucknow. It is only post 1857, when the nawab sided with the British, that
the principality came into its own. Rampur became a stable princely state. An
evolved cuisine seems to have been a natural outcome of royal visitors, who came
Kebab Recipe
One of the easiest kebab recipes that you can try out though is the chapli. A legacy
of the pathans who settled in this part of the Gangetic plane, Rampur is perhaps the
garlic, 20 g chana powder, salt. Mix a all the ingredients together with minced meat.
Ensure it doesn't become a paste. Leave the dough for an hour to rest. Make flat
patties with hand and shallow fry. Garnish it with fresh mint before serving.
Taar Qorma
The best known and most distinctive Rampuri dish by far is the taar qorma, a must at
all wedding receptions, where only taar qorma and rotis (cooked on a kachcha,
wood-fired, makeshift oven) is served. The dish derives its name from the layer of fat
— "taar" — floating over of the curry, made primarily from beef (though restaurants
now do mutton versions). The taar contained maximum flavour and would be drunk
out of small katoris, or bowls, after the diners had finished with the meat.
The qorma of Delhi — rich and made with browned onions — this is a simpler
preparation, where the base is raw onions. Of course, slow deg-style cooking is
inevitable in these kinds of cuisines, but you can skimp on the oil at home and make
a healthier version.
Recipe of Taar Korma(A Royal Indian Recipe for Mutton/ Goat Curry):
1 tablespoon ghee
1 - 2 tablespoons ghee
5 whole cloves
1 - 2 bay leaves
1 star anise
1½ cup hot stock (I used vegetable, as that's what I had on hand) (375 ml)
Additional items:
Method:
1. To make the fried onion paste, heat 1 tablespoon of ghee in a wide pan. Add the
chopped onions. Fry on a medium heat for about 10 - 12 minutes, until the onion is
golden and fragrant. Add the chopped ginger and garlic, and fry for another minute.
2. To make the nut paste, soak the almonds, cashew nuts and sunflower seeds in
the milk for about 15 minutes. Grind to a fine paste, adding a little more milk, if
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of ghee in a heavy pot. Add the cardamom pods, cloves,
cinnamon, bay leaves and star anise. Stir together for about 30 - 45 seconds, until
the spices are fragrant. Add the goat/ mutton pieces and fry them for about 1 - 2
4. Add the fried onion-ginger-garlic paste, tomato puree and hot stock to the
browned goat/ mutton. Stir together and heat until just beginning to simmer.
5. Take the yoghurt in a bowl. Add a couple tablespoons of the simmering gravy into
it, and whisk well. This will stop the yoghurt from splitting when you add it to the
gravy.
6. Gently add the tempered yoghurt into the simmering meat and gravy, and stir until
7. Add the ground black pepper and chilli powder to the sauce. Stir well. Then add
8. Bring it to a gentle boil, then turn the heat low, and cover the pot. Let the meat
slow cook, until it is fork tender. This could take anywhere between 1 - 2 hours. Test
by taking a small piece out and sticking a fork in it. If it falls apart, the meat is
cooked.
10. Very gently, lift the pieces of meat into an oven safe pot or casserole.
11. Take out the bay leaf and the cinnamon stick(s).
12. Return the sauce to the heat, and whisk in the nut paste. Cook for 2 - 3 minutes.
If the sauce becomes too thick, add the additional hot stock, 1/4 cup at a time, until
the consistency is to your liking. It should be rich and creamy, but not overly thick.
13.Take out of the oven, and let it rest for a few minutes. Stir, then garnish with fresh
14. Serve with naan or saffron rice for a truly regal experience.
15. Whisk in the saffron + the milk it was soaked in, into the sauce. Stir in the
16. Take out of the oven, and let it rest for a few minutes. Stir, then garnish with
with foil and place a lid on top. Place in the oven, and cook for an additional 20 – 25
minutes.
Rampur may have been forgotten, thanks to the vagaries of time and space, but the
recipes are very much alive with Nawab Syed Mohammad Ali Khan or in short,
Murad Rampur.
What sets Rampurs food apart from the oft-eaten Mughlai recipes is the elaborate
procedure that goes into the making of the dishes. In those times, a kaliya master
would only make kaliyas, a kebabi would just prepare kebabs and the same was true
for the men behind the sweetmeats. I have all the recipes compiled in one book,
At the Taj festival, you are truly spoilt for choice. If you want to take a non-vegetarian
trip of Rampur ka khana, you can start off with the Murg Chapli Kebab (chicken
mince dumplings flavoured with aromatic spices and cooked in a traditional vessel
from Rampur) or the more exotic Bhuna Gurda Kaleji (pot roasted mutton liver and
kidney cooked with traditional Rampuri spices). For the main course, while there are
quite a few dishes on offer, the must-haves include Mutton Tar Korma (a special
lamb preparation from the house of the Nawab), Shab Deg (a kaliya of mutton chops
seeds and stems is quite unique. You can try the Kamal Kakri Kebab (lotus stem
cooked with Rampur spices) and then move on to Subz Makhana Qaliya (celebrated
To go with the kebabs and gravies, you must try the Sheermal (rich bread made with
flour and milk) or the less exciting Rampuri Roti made from wheat.
For that sweet ending to your culinary conquest, have the Gulathi, a thick phirniwith
dry fruits.
Mughlai mix
After the hilsa hysteria, biryani passion is fast catching up with every hotel worth
its zafran hosting a feast of the Mughlai classic. The latest to bite the binge-wagon is
Kenilworth with a biryani and kebab festival tantalisingly titled Mahek Biryani Aur
The a la carte lunch and dinner menu features a wide variety of biryani with some lip-
smacking kebabs. One can choose between Kachchi Gosht ki Biryani, Peshawari
Biryani, Murg Dum ki Biryani, Ilish Biryani, Seafood Biryani, Vegetable Parda Biryani
The kebab menu consists of preparations like Murg Irani, Nawabi Tangri, Dum ke
Mahi Kebab, Jhinga Anarkali, Noorjahani Gosht Kalia, Bawali Seekh, Bharwan Subz
Bahar, Chutney Aloo Tikka and Paneer Pasanda Kebab. The menu also features
Biryani binge
Serving up preparations from Padma nadir paar theke like Elish Machher Biryani and
Chingri Machher Biryani, the classic Mughlai dish it seems has travelled east as well.
The restaurant completes the circuit with Lucknowi varieties like Murg Nawabi and
Gosht Nawabi Biryani and those originating from Hyderabad like Dumpukht Gosht
and their taste buds. It is a blending clout of Mughlai, Awadhi, Afghani, Rajput and
other cultures. Even the British have an impact on this cuisine culture. This evolution
was also a natural outcome of inhabitants and visitors from various parts of the
world.
Nawabs fashioned their menus to suit individual zest. They treated the royal visitors
with recipes created especially for them. The visitors' choice to the use of various
And this cuisine also took more glorious turns when the royal cooks from various
The smell of rich meat and chicken dishes, eggs and ginger from Rampur kitchen,
reflects that the winter is on trial. During summer, delicately flavored dishes and
desserts are prepared and served in the royal house to its visitors. The season for
mangoes is cherished in Rampur, as the orchards flourished with mangoes that are
squashed into aam ras (mango juice) and are served proudly naming it asSamar
behisht.
Rampur will celebrate the taste of kebabs. These are crisp, soft and spicy pieces of
the city brags about these kebabs as their pride because it is worth it. To start with,
let it be a Murg Chapli Kebab, the chicken dumplings flavored with spices or the
vegetarian Kamal Kakri Kebab, a lotus stem cooked with special herbs and flavors,
every hundreds of these different kebab are cooked in their unique way and each
have their unique taste and not one tasted similar to another. Not to lose even a
pinch of its native taste, these kebabs are cooked in the traditional vessel made in
Rampur.
Mutton Taar Korma is another delicacy from the royal kitchen. These korma dishes
get their taste from the magical hands of the royal chefs. It is also believed that, this
exquisite dish tastes good only when cooked with Rampur’s water and this belief is
well rooted that people from various parts of the country order water from Rampur to
Rampur chefs present innovations in their plates in the form of desserts. Mirchi Ka
Halwa (a dessert made with peppers) Aloe Vera Ka Halwa (a dessert made with aloe
vera) are the brain children of Rampur. Halwa is the famous sweet in Rampuri
cuisine. It accompanies every course meal. Adrak Ka Halwa (halwa made with
ginger) is an ecstasy of royal cuisine. Apart from this, desserts like Gulathi (Rampuri
rabri), Kemami Sevian (vermicelli with dried fruits and nuts) and Shahi Tukra (bread
pudding) will kindle your appetite for more. But nothing can beat Motiya, with an
There is a misconception that Nawab’s recipes don’t sound romantic for vegetarians,
but Rampuri cuisine has kept its pace along with the evolution in bringing out new
kormas. Kebabs are made even with not-so popular vegetables like Matar (peas)
and Kele (banana/ plantain), Aloo kebab (roasted pieces of potatoes) Tomato
Shorba (Thick gravy of tomatoes), Matar Biryani (Rice cooked with Peas and
vegetables) are some of the other vegetarian delicacies introduced by Nawab’s
chefs.
The Khansamas, as they are commonly called in Rampur are the royal chefs, have
revealed only a portion of the secrecy in this heritage cooking, to the world. Chefs
around the country believe that the recipes rolling around in the name of Rampuri
cuisine are the evolved versions of the royal cooking but not the same. Still there are
parts of cooking lessons to be presented by the Khansamas to the world and hopes
continue that the descendants of these royal chefs will reveal it.
DAL E MUMTAZ
Ingredients
Cream ¼ cup
Ginger 1-inch
Salt to taste
Ghee ¼ cup
Cumin ½ tsp
Method
In a pan, add 3 cups of water, dal, salt, green chilli, ginger and cook it over medium
flame for a few minutes till 80% cooked. Remove from the flame and drain the water.
To this, add milk and let it simmer over low flame, stir occasionally. Add cream and
For the tempering, in a fry pan add ghee, onion, cumin, put on high flame for 2-3
SHEESH PALAO
Ingredients
Basmati Rice (pre-soaked for at least 30 minutes) 3 cups
Cashew 12 no
Green chillies 4 no
Cloves 5 no
Cinnamon 1 stick
Black Cardamom 3 no
Bay leaves 3 no
Small Cardamom 6 no
Cumin ½ tsp
Ghee 1 cup
Salt to taste
Method
In a pan, heat the ghee and add the sliced onion and fry until translucent and slightly
brown. Now add the cumin, black pepper, cardamoms, cinnamon sticks, black
cardamom, clove, bay leaves, cashew and fry until light golden in colour. Now add
the ginger garlic paste, vegetables, green chilli and salt, sauté well for 3-4 minutes
Add the pre-soaked rice, stir properly, add 4 cups of water, you can adjust water
quantity as per the quality of rice. Increase the flame slightly, wait till 2-3 minutes or
till the water is reduced to half. Throw in the fried cottage cheese cubes and saffron.
2.7 Experiences of Different People with Rampuri Cuisine
It is the formidable single-edged Rampuri chaku and the lilt of Mirza Ghalib’s poetry
that come to mind when one thinks of Rampur, a town nestled 150 km away from
Delhi and 350 km from Lucknow, one of the most popular sub-roots of this Muslim
kingdom.
Tat ke Ghosht at Sahib and Kipling Room
But those aren’t Rampur’s only raison d’êtres. The town holds the door into the
kitchens of a lesser-known Mughlai cuisine, too. In them, you will neither encounter
overpowering fragrances typical of Lucknowi food, nor taste the ghee-laden, creamy
textures of Awadhi food. What you find in Rampuri cuisine are dishes made in clay
pots and spiced with unrefined, khada (raw) masalas, dal chini (cinnamon)
sandalwood and pili mirch (yellow chilli), a local favourite.
Rampuri Nalli Ka Korma
Rampur’s glorious culinary history dates back to 1774, when its leader, Faziullah
Khan, founded the state. Established under the presence and protection of British
Commander, Colonel Champion, the region provided a safe and open-minded
atmosphere for artistic development. To take advantage of these liberties, an
abundance of cooks and artists from the surrounding area moved to Rampur. For
this reason, the Rampuri cuisine is heavily influenced by the Mughlai,
Afghani, Lucknowi, Kashmiri and Awadhi cuisines.
Gular Ke Kebab
A Royal Khichdi
Sayyad reveals how, in a bid to outdo each other, khansamas often turned kitchens
into labs. “Chefs used many camouflage dishes, and one such Rampuri dish is
thekhichdi. The cooks carved grains out of almonds and pistachio,” he adds.
In those times, eating was a ritual in itself, according to Kinny, who is hosting a
Rampuri festival at Sahib and Kipling Room.
I admire how the Rampuri cuisine used simple ingredients such as Gullar (white fig),
Nadru (lotus stem), kathal (jackfruit), pineapple and amla. This simplicity leaves a
royal taste on your palate,” he adds.
Chef Mujbeer Rehman, one of the practitioner and propagator of old-style Rampuri
cuisine in India, has experienced first-hand the labour of getting these recipes from
the last few surviving khansamas. He says, “For them, these are not mere recipes
but a legacy that is guarded with life. You could spend a whole year working with
them, and yet there is a good chance that you may not find the recipe at all.” In fact,
it took Chef Rehman over three years and constant visits to Rampur, and working
under a few khansamas to get the recipes that were narrated to him like a story.
“They would say it once, and you had to grasp it all.”
Last night the dishes which left a impression on my mind was a delicacy have never
heard of and never ever tasted . I could not have imagined in my life time that some
thing like could be invented or innovated … Eggs are important part of Food in every
culture and civilization But this was defining moment for me When Chef M. Rehman
after we relished it and not even a drop or grub was left in the bowl asked us what
did you eat? Answers or Guesses pouring in from all sides … Imagine to our own
amazement it was ANDEIN KA HALWA … Texture was not that of egg … Egg was
transformed into Mava or Khoya . Its just experience or cognitive reflex which brain
could not understand … felt like khoya but made up of Egg . Its like those which they
show in Star trek series … Matter has changed itself … Beyond words … just a
experience .
Second dish was just another dish which I could have thought not possible … Main
ingredient ofcourse the king of Veges – Potato but then Hero was not Potato … It
was Sandal ( Chandan ) paste . baby potatoes nicely grilled in sandal paste and
aromatic name of Sandali Allo . I think world is missing some thing if they have not
tasted it .
In kebab section the plate was laid and kebabs were roaring .. Chapali kebab ,
sheekh kabab and then lovely tangy tamatari machi … ofcourse Rampuri cuisine and
chapali kebab go hand in hand … But the Kebab which literally dented taste buds
was Subz Khumani Kebab … sweety and tangy of khumani ( dried Apricot ) as
Last but not the least Chicken Chungezi … Subtle yet spicy … Chef M. Rehman said
It was 137 years ago that the last of the kings of Avadh walked on the sarzameen
(land) of their beloved Lucknow. While these monarchs sat on the throne of Avadh,
there was nothing that they left untouched, thankfully, for their touch was like the
proverbial magic wand. It could raise the most mundane of activities into the realm of
art and to unattained heights of excellence. Little wonder that even bawarch is
became master creator of culinary delights. Powerful courts all over India vyed with
each other to wean away a cook who had either worked or was trained in Lucknow.
To belong to Lucknow was the highest qualification a cook could hold. The ruler of
Avadh engaged in peaceful pursuits since the battle of Buxar, and laid the foundation
of a culture which dazzled the world. Under their patronage developed a cuisine
which did not remain the prerogative of royalty alone. Recipes traveled from the royal
kitchens of the nobilities and from there, to the kichens of ordinary people. All the
while, research and innovation proceeded unabated in the bawarchi khanas of the
royalty and aristocracy where money was no constraint, neither was time. In the mid
18th century, in the personal bawarchi khana of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula, Rs. 60,000
was spent per month or Rs. 7.2 lakhs per year on the preparation of dishes. The
dishes which adorned his dastar khwan did not come from the kitchen alone but from
five other bawarchi khanas, including that of his mother Nawab Begum and his wife
Bahu Begum. These ladies separately spent Rs. 9,000 per every month on the
preparation of food. The staggering salaries of the hierarchy of cooks and other
kitchen staff came from a separate budget. However, high salaries were not the only
reason for the excellent performance of the cooks. They were given total freedom to
pursue their work their own way. Examples of cooks laying down conditions of
employment before crowned heads, and the latter meekly accepting them, would
only be found in Lucknow. And in Lucknow alone would you find cooks strutting off in
a huff if the king did not sit down for a meal when told to do so by the cook because
the food was hot. A tale is told of a cook employed only to prepare mash ki dal (arhar
ki dal) on a monthly salary of Rs. 500. The dal was not cooked daily but once in a
while, and the king was condition bound to sit down at the dastar khwan when he
cook announced that dal was ready. The king once delayed, so the cook left. Before
leaving, he emptied the contents of the dish at a place where stood a stalk of a dead
tree. In a few days, leaves started sprouting from the stalk and before long, the tree
turned a healthy green colour (source: Abdul Sharar’s The last phase of an Oriental
Culture). The story may appear like an exaggeration but the fact remains that the
ingredients that went into the preparation of the royal dishes were very nutritious.
It was unwritten law that the master would sanction whatever quantity of ingredients
the cook demanded. No questions were asked nor doubts expressed. Another
popular story goes that king Ghazi-ud-din Haider slapped his vazir Agha Meer for
reducing the quantity of ghee used by the cook in preparing parathas. The king was
no fool. He said that even if the cook pilfered some ghee, so what? The parathas he
made were excellent, while”you rob the whole monarchy and think nothing of it.”It
was not royalty alone who pampered their cooks. The nobility, aristocracy and
people of lesser means toomaintained well stocked and well staffed kitchens from
where were turned out the most exotic of dishes. Begums and ordinary housewives
too preserved in their kitchens and acquired an excellence that could match the skills
of a professional bawarchi.
CULINARY TERMS
DHUNGAR
raita. The smoke very effectively permeates every grain of the ingredients and
imparts a subtle aroma, which enhances the quality of the dish. The
procedure may be carried out either at the intermediate or the final stage of
mince has been marinated, a smallbay is made in the center and a katori or
onion skin or even a betel leaf (depending on the dish) is placed. In it a piece
of live coal is placed and hot ghee, sometimes mixed with aromatic herbs or
spices, is poured over it and covered immediately with a lid to prevent the
smoke from escaping. The lid is not removed till about 15 minutes, so as to
allow the smoke to work on the ingredients inside. The coal is then removed
from the utensil and the meat put through further cooking processes.
DUM DENA
'breath' and the process involves placing the semi-cooked ingredients in a pot
or deg, sealing the utensil with flour dough and applying very slow charcoal
fire from top, by placing some live charcoal on the lid, and some below. The
acquired its own distinct character. The magic of dum' is the excellent aroma,
flavor and texture which results from slow cooking. This method is followed for
a number of delicacies such as the Shabdeg, Pulao and Biryani. Any dish
GALAVAT
BAGHAR
This is a method of tern pering a dish with hot oil / ghee and spices. It may be
done either at the beginning of the cooking as in curries, or at the end as for
(pulses). In the former, the fat is heated in a vessel to a smoking point and
after reducing the flame, spices are added to it. When they begin to
cooked dish and immediately covered with a lid, so that the essence and the
aroma of the spices, drawn out by the hot ghee are retained in the dish giving
it their flavour.
GILE HIKMAT
teresting method adopted for cooking. 'Gil' in Persian is earth or mud and
which cannot be consumed in their natural form as they are toxic,for instance
gems or metals. But when adopted for cooking purposes the method is as
stuffed with nuts andspices, It is then wrapped in a banana leaf or cloth and
covered completely with clay or 'Multani Mitti' (Fuller's Earth)so as to seal it. It
of Central Asia and North India. The Mughlai cooking styles is used in the traditional
migrants from India). The cuisine is strongly influenced by Central Asian cuisine, the
modern India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
The tastes of Mughlai cuisine vary from extremely mild to spicy, and are often
cuisine of Lucknow.
The Mughlai cuisine developed in the royal kitchens of the Mughal Empire starting
from the rule of Babar who initiated the Mughal Empire in India in the 16th century.
His autobiography called ‘Babarnama’ mention about various food items including
Kebab prepared out of sheep. The Mughlai cuisine represents a mix of Indian
cuisines with that of the Persian cuisines. The latter already existed in India for
more than three centuries prior to the introduction of Mughlai cuisine. The different
Sultans of the Delhi Sultanate who ruled various regions of India from Delhi that
include the different Turkic and Pashtun (Afghan) Muslim dynasties introduced the
use of Tandoor, Kebab, Keema and Naan prior to the Mughal dynasty. However
with time these items developed as an integral part of the Mughlai Cuisine. While
the Chagatay Turkic languages remained the native languages of the Mughals,
the Persian language was adopted by the Mughal Empire as the official language,
thus many of the Mughlai Indian dishes bear names in these languages.
Haleem
Mughlai cuisine has a profound influence on the culinary styles and regional
cuisines of present day India, Bangladesh and Pakistan and its cooking style is
applied in traditional North Indian cuisines, particularly in Delhi and Uttar Pradesh
as also in the South Indian city of Hyderabad in Telengana. The cuisine also
marks its influence in the city of Karachi in Pakistan, especially among the Muslim
immigrants called Muhajir who migrated from different regions of India following
the Partition of India. The Mughal cooking techniques also had profound influence
in the Awadh region which eventually led to the development of the Awadhi
cuisine of Lucknow.
The Mughals were Muslims by religion and thus did not eat pork and as Hindus
did not consume beef thus meat of these two were not part of Mughal cuisines.
The primary non-vegetarian dishes would comprise of meat of goat, fowls, sheep
and venison. Among the most distinctive features of Mughlai cuisine are the
unique use of combination of ground and whole spices and the distinguishing
aroma that gives each dish a unique and exotic taste. Extensive use of milk,
cream and butter in various gravies and curries makes the dishes even more
appetizing with foodies ending up licking their fingers. The different spices, saffron,
dry fruits, ghee and other diary produces makes the traditional Mughlai cuisines
quite rich and heavy, however more lighter versions that are low in fat contents are
tried and tested nowadays by the more health conscious but enthusiastic foodies.
The Mughlai dishes are varied, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, starting from
Biriyani, Pulao, Naan, Kofta, Kebab, Pasanda, different tandoori items, to a wide
range of sweet dishes like Sheer Korma, Shahi Tukra, Kheer, Kulfi and Firni.
Murg Noorjehani
Kebabs
Murg Musallam
Desserts
Shahi Tukra is a rich bread pudding with dry fruits, flavoured with cardamom.
Sheer korma
Falooda
Kesari Firni is a rice based sweet dish streaked with Saffron
Firni
CONCLUSION
The main problem with Rampuri cuisine has been that it has been virtually
impossible to tell it apart from Lucknowi food, save for some very fine nuances, not
easy to distinguish. Over the years, chefs have argued that the major way in which
Rampuri food differs from Avadhi is that the former uses more khada masala (whole
tradition and the Avadhi food. It has been influenced by both and is not as subtle as
Avadhi and not as rich/full of spices, ghee and nuts as Mughal food.
preparation. In Rampur, the masalas are simpler as you can see from the qorma.
And if you are making the Rampuri seekh or kakori, there is no need to add almost
The research methodology used for this study is as per occam’s razor.
Occam's razor is a problem-solving principle attributed to William of Ockham who
can be interpreted as stating Among competing hypotheses, the one with the fewest
can always burden failing explanations with ad hoc hypotheses to prevent them from
being falsified; therefore, simpler theories are preferable to more complex ones
-
DATA ANALYSIS
The history of Rampur and its cuisine was thoroughly searched out to get the data
about the city and its story and the dishes famous in the Rampuri Cuisine.
Awadhi and Mughal history were also extensively searched to get the data about the
The point of difference between Rampuri, Awadhi and Mughlai cuisines and how to
http://www.rampuronline.in
http://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/food-wine/the-rise-and-revival-of-the-
ancient-rampuri-cuisine/
http://www.mid-day.com/articles/food-special-rampuri-cuisine-a-nawabi-
fare/16100180
https://ambikasukumar.wordpress.com/2015/06/09/rampuri-cuisine-by-chef-m-
rehman/
http://www.thecitizen.in/index.php/NewsDetail/index/9/2846/The-Osama-of-Rampuri-
Cuisine
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rampur,_Uttar_Pradesh
https://highonwines.com/tag/rampuri-cuisine/
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/industry/royal-rampuri-cuisine-a-blend-of-
delhis-mughalai-tradition-and-the-avadhi-food/articleshow/25137344.cms
http://www.thetiffinbox.ca/2012/01/taar-korma-royal-indian-recipe-for.html
http://todaysflavouris.blogspot.in/2011/08/rampuri-cuisine.html
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/et-cetera/royal-rampuri-cuisine-a-blend-of-
delhis-mughalai-tradition-and-the-avadhi-food/articleshow/25137344.cms?
intenttarget=no