Woodworking Plans Projects May 2015 UK PDF

The UK’s essential workshop project & technical manual
WOODWORKING
Issue 106 May 2015
Plans & Projects

Patch door
repairs
A DIY Fix
A look at the
2015 US Wood
Design Awards
TECHNIQUES
Hi-Fi Unit Final Tongue & groove joints
Construction The art of straw marquetry
Carved Birch Bowl • Oak TV Cabinet • Flexible Lid Cold Frame

IFC_WPP_106.indd 1 3/24/15 12:45 PM
REGULARS
‘Back to the future’
H
ello everyone and welcome
to issue 106 of Woodworking
Plans & Projects. I could tell
you all about this month’s contents
but no, you can find all that out for
yourselves by simply turning to the
next page. Instead, I have some rather
important news to bring you: this
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

month’s issue will be the very last we
will publish…
The ‘old’ magazine

The good news is that we are
replacing it with a new magazine –
Woodworking Crafts. Let me explain:
there is a clue in the title above, ‘back
to the future’. When I was a full-time
The original Woodworking Crafts hand-carved totem board used as the background
professional woodworker back in the cover image for the magazine in the late 1980s. It is now time to resurrect this all-
1980s and ’90s, I had a subscription embracing title once again…
to a magazine printed in black and
white, strangely entitled Woodworking needs an antidote to the rigours of a but I truly believe it is a great step
Crafts. It was published by GMC full-time occupation. New houses are forward and I invite you to look at our
Publications and ran for quite some more compact with smaller gardens ‘launch spread’ on pages 42 and 43
time – indeed I had a whole set of and we all have to be careful with of this issue to discover the full facts
magazines until I eventually gave money. And of course, there is the about these changes and the benefits
them away. internet – both a blessing and a curse to you, our loyal readers.
as well as a place to find both facts
The new magazine and misbegotten fiction in the search
Well, its time has come again. In for real knowledge.
response to many comments by
readers and changes that have A wider spread
happened in the world today, this new So the new magazine will cover a
‘old’ magazine is more relevant than much wider spread of woodworking
one largely devoted to projects and craft activities than at present
lengthy articles. Many people want to with associated topics, such as the
try their hand at a craft skill but may environment that is all around us. It
not know where to start and younger is a better read, many shorter articles
generations no longer receive craft and helpful advice and teaching from a
or practical training – something that variety of subject experts. Readers too
has concerned me for a long time. are invited to join in the conversation
Anyone who is working does not and help make the magazine their
Anthony Bailey, Editor
Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com
have lots of spare time and perhaps own. Yes, this may be a shock to some,
EDITOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS DISTRIBUTED BY

Anthony Bailey Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com Rebecca Howard & Amanda Allsopp Seymour Distribution Ltd
Email: repro@thegmcgroup.com Tel: 020 7429 4000
DEPUTY EDITORS
Tegan Foley & Briony Darnley PUBLISHER WOODWORKING PLANS & PROJECTS
Jonathan Grogan (ISSN 1753-254X) is published every four weeks by
SENIOR DESIGNER
ADVERTISING SALES EXECUTIVE GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street,
Jan Morgan
Russell Higgins Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XN
HEAD OF WOODWORKING DESIGN
Email: russellh@thegmcgroup.com SUBSCRIPTION RATES (includes postage & packing)
Oliver Prentice
CIRCULATION MANAGER UK Europe Rest of World
SENIOR EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR 12 issues: £47.40 £59.25 £66.36
Tony Loveridge
Karen Scott 24 issues: £94.80 £118.50 £132.72
MARKETING
ILLUSTRATOR
Anne Guillot US customers should call the Subscription Department for
Simon Rodway (www.linemine.com)
SUBSCRIPTIONS subscription rates in USD ($).
CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER Cheques made payable to: GMC Publications Ltd.
Helen Chrystie
Anthony Bailey Current subscribers will automatically receive a renewal notice
Tel: 01273 402 873 Fax: 01273 478 606
GROUP EDITOR, WOODWORKING Email: helenc@thegmcgroup.com (excludes direct debit subscribers). Post your order to: The
Mark Baker Subscription Department, GMC Publications Ltd, 166 High
PRINTED IN THE UK BY Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XU, UK. Tel: +44 (0)1273 488 005
PRODUCTION MANAGER Stephens and George Print Group Fax: +44 (0) 1273 402866 Email: pubs@thegmcgroup.com
Jim Bulley
Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
Woodworking is an inherently dangerous pursuit. Readers should not attempt the procedures described herein without seeking training and information on the safe use of tools and machines, and all readers should observe current safety
legislation. Views and comments expressed by individuals in the magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publishers and no legal responsibility can be accepted for the results of the use by readers of information or advice of whatever kind given
in this publication, either in editorial or advertisements. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.
www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 1
WPP106 P01 LEADERtfABSDJR.indd 1 27/03/2015 09:15

ISSUE 106 MAY 2015 CONTENTS
This month in Woodworking Plans & Projects
53
65
PROJECTS TECHNIQUES KIT & TOOLS
9 RouterCentric 28 Joint solutions – tongue 47 Craftsman’s corner
The Editor found a piece of veneered & groove To celebrate Trend’s 60th anniversary,
board, which he thought might be useful, The Editor looks at one of his favourites – we spoke to founder Jim Phillips who
and after some head scratching, he finally the tongue & groove joint gave us the lowdown and the Editor puts
got to the seat of the problem the new planer/thicknesser from Warco
59 DIY fixes – door repairs through its paces
15 Carving a natural-edge bowl The Editor wryly observed ‘as one door
Lee Stoffer makes a carved wooden bowl shuts, another one opens’. So just to prove 50 Hot stuff
he isn’t completely unhinged, we thought Take a look at the tools, gadgets and
34 Oak TV cabinet he ought to show us exactly what he gizmos that we think you will enjoy using
Louise Biggs makes this oak TV cabinet meant and get a handle on the problem... in your workshop
44 Plans 4 You – letter boxes 65 Hi-fi unit: final construction 74 A look at… a mason’s mitre
& paper rack The Editor’s hi-fi unit reaches its conclusion Jim Hooker makes a deliberately
Simon Rodway makes two bespoke letter understated cabinet from reclaimed
box designs and a paper rack
70 Marqueterie De Paille – mahogany and fabric-covered MDF and
the art of straw marquetry shows you how to make the perfect
53 Flexible lid cold frame Amber Bailey looks at how straw can be mason’s mitre
John Corfield shows us his ingenious used for marquetry
design for the ultimate cold frame that
won’t get blown away in a high wind!
28 15
2 WPP ISSUE 106 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WPP106 P2-3 CONTENTStfABSDJR.indd 2 3/24/15 12:46 PM

CONTENTS ISSUE 106 MAY 2015
Purveyor of Fine
Hand Tools
& Accessories
since 2004
Cabinet Making Tools
Lie Nielsen
Blue Spruce Toolworks
Clifton, Auriou, Starrett
Ron Hock, Veritas
BenchCrafted, Barr
Thomas Flinn, Ashley Isles
Japanese Saws & Chisels
20
REGULARS FEATURES
1 Leader 20 The 2015 Wood Design Awards
Anthony Bailey introduces you to the last issue The 2015 Wood Design Awards took place on
of WPP 27 January, 2015 at the Bay Area Wood Solutions
Fair in Oakland, California Wood/Stone Carving Tools
4 Noticeboard Pfeil, Auriou
All the latest events and news from the world 26 Book & DVD reviews Flexcut
of woodworking... Derek Jones, Briony Darnley and Mark Baker
24 Welcome to Woodworking Crafts
review two books and a DVD for you to enjoy Woodturning Tools
We give you a sneak peek at our new magazine: Robert Sorby
Woodworking Crafts Hamlet Craft Tools
Finishes + Books
Fine Cabinetware
Brusso Hardware
Sharpening Supplies
Toishi Ohishi, Shapton
Dan’s Whetstone Company
Norton Pike, Tormek
Books & DVDs

Lost Art Press
Astragal
Lie Nielsen Toolworks
All of the above

and much more at
www.classichandtools.co.uk
9 34 Hill Farm Business Park,

Witnesham, Ipswich,
Suffolk IP6 9EW
Woodwork on the web
To find more great projects, tests and techniques like these, visit Tel: (+44/0) 1473 784983
our fantastic website at: www.woodworkersinstitute.com sales@classichandtools.co.uk
ISSUE 106 WPP 3
WPP106 P2-3 CONTENTStfABSDJR.indd 3 3/24/15 12:46 PM

All the latest events and news from the world of woodworking...
REGULARS
Noticeboard
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF IRWIN TOOLS

Win prizes with 2015
National Tradesmen Day
IRWIN Tools launches 2015 National Tradesmen Day

Calling all trades professionals! Now in its runners up will each receive an NFL Wembley
fifth year, National Tradesmen Day 2015 Experience including premium tickets
will take place on 18 September, 2015 and a three course meal. All nominations
and celebrates exceptional individuals will be judged by the IRWIN Xpert’s panel
who go above and beyond to achieve of industry experts. The winner will be
the best results and make a positive impact announced on 18 September at the Toolfair
within the industry. National Tradesmen Elex in Coventry with last nominations
Day is a global initiative founded by accepted online up until 31 August, 2015.
IRWIN tools to applaud and encourage Also, until 31 May, IRWIN Jack saws will
the workforce who work behind the scenes include details on how to claim guaranteed
to keep the country running strong. As instant win prizes. Simply purchase a saw
part of the initiative in-store promotions, and follow the instructions to claim an IRWIN
giveaways and events will be taking place T-shirt or impact bit.
throughout the year with the grand prize To keep up-to-date on IRWIN’s campaign
winner announced on the day itself. to celebrate National Tradesmen Day, visit
To nominate a tradesman who you think the website.
is worthy of the ‘2015 Ultimate Tradesman’
title visit www.irwin.co.uk/nominate and Contact: IRWIN Tools
explain why. The overall winner will receive Tel: 01543 447 001
the grand prize of a 2015 Ford 4×4 and Web: www.irwin.co.uk
READER LETTER Dear Woodworking Plans & Projects,

In 2007, a group of us at the Laindon Day Centre sent you
a photo of a rocking motorbike, which we made and you
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF LAINDON DAY CENTRE
were kind enough to print it in your September, 2007 issue.

Since then, we have made another two: one was given to Little
Haven Children’s hospice and the other was raffled off and we
raised £3,500 for Help for Heroes. We have now advanced to a
Rolls Royce rocker, which we hope to present to another worthy
cause in the near future.
We enclose photos of our latest project – the car was taken
from a Richard Blizzard book on children’s models and we
doubled up on all the sizes. We hope that the children will
get as much pleasure from it as we have had making it.
Keep up the good work and all the best,
Laindon Day Centre
Laindon Day Centre’s Rolls Royce rocker
WPP106 P4-6 NOTICEBOARDtfJRABSD.indd 4 27/03/2015 09:17

Working with wood
REGULARS NOTICEBOARD
Tucked away in a workshop in Cambridge on a Tuesday
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ICHF EVENTS

evening you can find members of a woodwork evening
class sawing, polishing, carving and sanding. The class takes
place at Parkside Community College and the tutor, Paul
Waldmann teaches for 15 hours a week: to children in after-
school clubs, at evening classes and at morning workshops.
When he’s not helping others to create or restore ‘works of
art’ he’s very busy making ones of his own.
Paul’s classes are mainly project based and are completely
unstructured, which allows students to work on ideas
and projects of their own rather than having to follow a
set course. At each class, you can expect to see a variety
of items being made, including a lockable cabinet and a
Weald of Kent Craft & Design Show
slatted bread board with crumb catcher. Returning to the grounds of Penshurst Place & Gardens,
Paul has a number of contacts who can supply hardwood, near Tonbridge in Kent, the Weald of Kent Craft & Design
although he also suggests trying local joiners to see if they Show takes place from 2–4 May. With three days of activities
have any. Although the classes are unstructured, there is for all the family to enjoy, the show also features the work
the opportunity for students to gather round to watch Paul of some of Britain’s leading craftspeople to the backdrop
demonstrate or explain something, such as techniques for of live music and the beautiful Kent countryside and with
using a router. The college also has a multitude of tools, workshops, a family friendly atmosphere and delicious food.
which students can use, although you can also bring your Over 200 British makers will assemble to display some
own if you wish. For more information, see details below. of the best in craft, art and design. Visitors can buy from
a broad selection of inspirational work of the highest
quality with plenty to choose from for home or garden.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PAUL WALDMANN
Accompanying this, the Graduate Marquee offers visitors

the opportunity to view an exhibition of cutting edge design
and the chance to buy a ‘one-off’ for the home with truly
Aside from stunning and innovative pieces at exclusive prices.
restoring old
furniture, new
projects can be
DETAILS:
undertaken on When: 2–4 May, 2015
the course Where: Penshurst Place & Gardens, Penshurst, near Tonbridge,
Kent TN11 8DH
DETAILS: Tickets: Adult – £8 (advance – £6); Senior – £7 (advance – £5);
Contact: Paul Waldmann Child under 16 – free if accompanied by parent, otherwise – £3
Tel: 01223 314 001 Contact: ICHF Events
Web: www.paulwaldmanndesign.co.uk Tel: 01425 277 988
Web: www.ichfevents.co.uk
Isca Woodcrafts’ 10th anniversary Wood Show

Isca Woodcafts is once again hosting its popular In among all that you can also expect to see fretsaw
woodworking show on 16 May, 2015 at Newport’s work, pyrography, furniture making, knife handles,
magnificent Tredegar House. The business is also lovespoons and musical instrument-making by craftsmen
celebrating its 10th anniversary, thus making it a very and women.
special year. Isca Woodcrafts will have a large selection of wood
The Wood Show takes place in the 17th-century stable in both board and blank form, plus a range of exotic
block and courtyard, which is minutes away from the hardwoods. The shop will open all day and the General
shop and will run from 10am-4pm. Entry is free but car Tool Store of Abergavenny and Ross will once again be
parking charges will apply within the grounds. selling their interesting array of wares. If you missed
For 2015, the company intend to keep the same Newport Model Engineers last year, then they have also
ethos, putting emphasis on showcasing woodworking just confirmed. For enquiries, see contact details below.
techniques and skills to encourage more people into
woodcrafts. Local clubs will be on hand to offer valuable DETAILS:
help and advice to all. When: 16 May, 2015
As always, the show will be supported by The British Where: Tredegar House, Newport, Monmouthshire,
Woodcarvers – South Wales Branch – and Crow Valley NP10 8YW
Woodturners will be representing the AWGB. The South Contact: Paul Roberts
Wales Stick Makers Association will also be carving and Tel: 01633 810 148
answering questions. Web: www.iscawoodcrafts.co.uk

‹
PHOTOGRAPH COPYRIGHT OF THE FORESTRY COMMISSION
REGULARS
WOOD NEWS
News from the Forestry Commission
Kielder ospreys reveal
surprising migrations
Last year was an outstanding one at Kielder Water and
Kielder osprey chicks on the nest
Forest Park for some of the best known inhabitants – the
ospreys. New tracking devices revealed surprising migration Joanna Daily, volunteer for The Kielder Osprey Project, says
activity including an accidental U-turn and an unusually about analysing migration data: “Analysing each download
long stop in Morocco. is fascinating, it is almost like travelling with the osprey
For the first time, the two well-established nests saw three as he/she changes altitude and/or speed. Seeing how they
chicks fledge from each. A third pair of ospreys bred for the establish a territory – for example, testing different roost
first time on another nest platform erected by the Forestry points – is giving insight into what habitat they prefer.”
Commission, producing two healthy offspring. From sightings of UK ospreys and data from the
Partners in the osprey project are currently looking for relatively few ospreys previously fitted with trackers, West
further locations in Kielder Water and Forest Park for new Africa – from southern Mauritania to the Ivory Coast – is
nest platforms. regarded as the likeliest migration destination, although
There was another important first for the Kielder ospreys some overwinter in Spain. The 3,000 plus mile journey is
with trackers fitted to three chicks. The tiny backpacks use hazardous for a first time migrator and life in the wintering
satellites to pinpoint their position then transmit the data areas holds more threats, such as crocodiles, than the UK.
daily via the cell towers for mobile phone networks. This Only between 20-30% of juveniles are likely to return to
provides much more data than previous tracking devices. the UK in two to three years’ time.
The information provides greater understanding of different The popular Kielder Osprey blog – kielderospreys.
migration techniques and foraging patterns and also new wordpress.com – keeps people up-to-date in the UK and
insights into migration strategies, including total distance overseas. Last year there were over 75,000 views of the site
travelled, time taken to migrate, stop overs and stop over throughout the year. You can also see a stunning selection
duration. of photos on the website.
£100,000 investment in Moray Monster Trails

Rural Affairs Secretary, Richard The work is expected to be completed The National Forest Estate in the
Lochhead visited Fochabers in and the new facilities open in north east is a significant contributor
February to announce a £100,000 September this year. to the tourist economy and supports
investment in Moray Monster Mr Lochhead said: “This is great the Scottish Government’s healthy
mountain bike trails. The funding – news for the Moray area and illustrates living agenda.
principally from Forestry Commission the many benefits our local forests The Monster Trails is already one of
Scotland, which manages the trails, deliver for the local community. the most extensive MTB facilities in
and the Commonwealth Legacy 2014 “There are lots of Forestry the north east of Scotland with around
Active Places Fund via sportscotland – Commission Scotland sites in the 30km of trails on offer. Well known
will see existing trails upgraded, new north east that are great places to go trails like The Haggis, Gordzilla and
sections added, and the construction for some fresh air, exercise and fun the Gully monster have helped build
of a new skills area. activities but this £100,000 investment a strong reputation for some great
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WWW.3.BP.BLOGSPOT.COM
will make the Monster Trails a key riding.

attraction. It will offer something for The monster trails already see
everyone – from experienced riders around 15,000 visits each year with
to families looking for a great day numbers expected to increase with
out – and that will really benefit the the additional investment. The project
area’s tourism economy, but will is strongly supported by local groups
also create a fantastic resource for such as the Moray Mountain Bike club
local communities, with the new & Moray Council Active Schools team.
skills area providing an ideal venue For more information, see below.
to introduce children to mountain
biking through the Active Schools DETAILS:
Programme, or through local groups Contact: The Forestry Commission
A view from one of the Moray Monster such as Outfit Moray and the Moray Tel: 03000 674 321
mountain bike trails Mountain Bike Club.” Web: www.forestry.gov.uk
WPP106 P4-6 NOTICEBOARDtfJRABSD.indd 6 18/03/2015 13:03

ROUTING & WOODWORKING
CATALOGUE 2015
NOW
AVAILABLE
Request a catalogue now:
www.trend-uk.com
enquiry@trendm.co.uk
AD/15/10
01923 249911
007_WPP_106.indd 7 3/24/15 12:44 PM

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008_WPP_106.indd 8 3/24/15 12:47 PM

RouterCentric
PROJECT
Child’s
stool
The Editor found
a piece of veneered
board, which he
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
thought might be
useful, and after some
head scratching, he
finally got to the seat
of the problem
I
had a single board of
unprepossessing oak (Quercus
robur) veneered MDF – do I chuck
it or make something useful? In
theory, it looked big enough to make
a small stool. As it turned out, there
was a longish strip left over as well.
The material didn’t look at all exciting
but nothing some artful paintwork
couldn’t deal with. It needed rounded
edges for comfort and assembly
needed to be really simple, and it
had two biscuit slots already….
1 I started with single board of

veneered MDF, which didn’t
look very promising. Some careful
measurements would be needed to
get all the components to fit.
1 2 2 A bit of working out and I had my

cutting list, then it was all quickly
sawn to size on our Record tablesaw,
using the main fence as a length stop
for the wide pieces and the sliding
table and protractor fence for the
narrow strips; this will help to avoid
kickback between the blade and fence.
3 Now I’d created a pile of parts

including the existing biscuit slots,
which I decided to make use of by
placing the cuts so one of the stool
legs would line up with them.
3 4
4 Some careful freehand biscuiting
to my pencil line gave a second
row of biscuit slots for the other leg.
www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 9 ›

WPP106 P9-11 ROUTERCENTRICtfABJRSD.indd 9 27/03/2015 09:15
175
335 175
PROJECT
18 18 Plan
Scale 1 to 4
55
18
Side Elevation
Scale 1 to 4
Front Elevation
298 Scale 1 to 4
335 100
280 175
30
15
18 175 18 38 100 38
5 All the parts were placed together

to mark the strike positions for
the remainder of the slots.
6 The ones for the ends of the skirt

would be partly exposed, so the
visible biscuits would be trimmed
away after assembly.
7 All the slots were now cut and

I could now think about making
the hand-hold for the top.
8 The hand-hold would need to be

an adequate size and the edges
rounded over for comfort. It was
centred in the top.
9 To make it, I needed a template

to use with a 16mm diameter
guidebush and 8mm diameter straight
cutter. The difference in the radius
of the two is 4mm, of course, so the
opening was marked out as 4mm
larger on all sides. 5 6
7 8 9

PROJECT
10 Machining the long sides was
completed using the 8mm
cutter and straight fence, machining
the far side of the opening so any
deviation would go into the waste
area. The MDF was sitting on Trend
Loc Blocks to keep the cutter off the
bench surface.
11 The ends were completed with

the cutter running next to the
‘good’ side of the material. The fence
wouldn’t reach far enough, so care
was needed to avoid damaging the
10 11 template.
12 The template was pinned to

the underside of the stool
top and the opening machined
out with the guidebush in place.
The next job was rounding over
edges using a small bearing guided
roundover cutter. The cuts all had to
be ‘stopped’ where one component
would meet another.
13 I then realised I needed

four feet to help the stool
sit properly. The hand-hold cutout
template was used again – this time
12 13 fixed halfway off the bottom of each
leg in turn.
14 Now a good sanding was

needed all round before
assembling the stool. The edges
would be hand-sanded after
everything was put together.
15 It was important to match

the slots up by eye as the
markings had disappeared with
sanding. Next, PVA glue and No.20
biscuits were fitted, so everything
was ready to clamp up.
14 15
16 Plenty of clamps were needed
to tighten the joints and pull
the legs square. I checked this using
my engineer’s square and then left
everything to dry.
17 A coat
of quick
drying primer
undercoat was used ed
d
to give an even
surface ready for a
final water-based
satin colour coat.
16 17 18 The stool iss

now ready for sitting on! ■

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INDUSTRIAL DEVIL
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• 300w motor ELECTRIC No load disc speed: 1490rpm 305mm Disc CVAC25SS* 1400W 19/17ltr £64.99 £77.99
FAN HEATERS Diameter (1 x 60 grit sanding disc included) CVAC30SSR* 1400W 24/21ltr £86.99 £104.39
Dimensions (LWH): £
• Variable
• Rugged fan heaters
for small to medium 440x437x386mm 119.98 EXC.VAT
* SS = Stainless Steel
£
£ .98
59EX.VAT belt speed sized premises • Tough Weight: 143.98 INC.VAT
STATIC PHASE
• Tilting head
FROM ONLY
steel cabinets 28kg
£
71.98
INC.VAT
£
44EXC.VAT
.99
• Adjustable heat
CONVERTERS
CBS1-5
£ • Run big 3 phase
*Black & Decker 53INC.VAT
.99 output with thermostat
woodworking
MODEL MOTOR EXC.VAT INC.VAT ‡ was FROM ONLY
CJS380 £ machines
CPF13 400w/230v £44.99 £53.99 £63.59 37EXC.VAT
.99
from 1 phase
£
KA900E*‡ 350w/230v £49.98 £59.98 inc.VAT 45INC.VAT
.59
CDS300B
supply
• Variable
FROM ONLY HEAT NOW output power
LIGHTWEIGHT £ .99 MODEL OUTPUT EX VAT INC VAT
ALUMINIUM 6EX.VAT Devil 6002 0.7-2kW £37.99 £45.59 ‡ was
to match HP
.39 of motor to
JIGSAWS QUICK RELEASE 8INC.VAT £
Devil 6003‡ 1.5-3kW £49.98 £59.95 £71.98 be run
Devil 6005 2.5-5kW £74.99 £89.99 inc.VAT
FROM ONLY ALUMINIUM SASH CRAMPS Devil 6009 4.5-9kW £129.98 £155.98 ROTARY
£
12EXC.VAT
.99
Devil 6015 5-10-15kW £189.98 £227.87 18V PRO
PHASE
CONVERTERS
*DIY #Professional £
15INC.VAT
.59 PC60
CORDLESS ALSO AVAILABLE
FROM ONLY
MODEL POWER DEPTH DRILL/DRIVERS
(W) OF CUT EX INC
CORDLESS 10mm chuck size
CONVERT 230V £
229.00
EX.VAT
(WOOD/STEEL) VAT VAT MODEL SIZE EX. VAT INC. VAT 2 Speed, Variable
1PH TO 400V 3PH £
274.80
INC.VAT
Clarke CJS380* 420w 55/6mm £12.99 £15.59 CHT374 600mm £6.99 £8.39 DRILL/ PSR18
DRIVERS control - 0-350/0-1250rpm MODEL MAX. FUSE EX VAT INC VAT
Clarke CON750# 750w 80/10mm £24.99 £29.99 CHT375 900mm £7.99 £9.59 21 torque settings
B & D KS600* 450w 60/5mm £29.98 £35.98 CHT376 1200mm £9.98 £11.98
FROM ONLY MOTOR HP
£
Bosch PST700* 500w 70/4mm £49.98 £59.98 34EXC.VAT
.99
FROM ONLY
PC20 2Hp 10amps £229.00 £274.80
£ PC40 3.5Hp 20amps £269.00 £322.80
BELT 41INC.VAT
.99
64EXC.VAT
£ .99
INCLUDES 12 PC60 5.5Hp 32amps £319.00 £382.80
£
SANDERS 77INC.VAT
.99
PIECE BIT SET
HUGE CHOICE
ENGINEER’S IN-STORE & ONLINE EXC. INC. TABLE
• Ideal for surface removal, MODEL BATTERIES VAT VAT SAW
DRILL PRESS sanding and finishing CON18Ni 2 x Ni-Cd £64.99 £77.99 Powerful 1800W Motor CTS13L
MODEL VOLTS BATTS EXC. VAT INC.VAT
• Tables tilt CCD180 18v 1 £34.99 £41.99 CON18Li 2 x Li-Ion £84.99 £101.99 5700rpm No
FROM ONLY ABRASIVE SANDING
0-45° left & right £ BELTS IN STOCK CCD240 24v 1 £39.98 £47.98 Load
• Depth gauge 59EXC.VAT
.98
Bosch PSR18 18v 1 £49.98 £59.98 SHEET SANDERS Speed
• Chuck guards 71INC.VAT
£ .98 Laser Guide for
accurate cutting
MODEL WATTS/ EXC.VAT INC.VAT CBS16 FROM ONLY With folding
SPEEDS CON300 £ legs and
CDP5EB 350/5 £59.98 £71.98 DRILL BIT SHARPENER 12EXC.VAT
.99
wheels
£
CDP101B 245/5 £79.98 £95.98 FROM ONLY Great for 3mm to 10mm 15INC.VAT
.59
- Large
.98 HSS drill bits 70W motor PRICE CUT
CDP151B 300/5 £106.99 £128.39
CDP10B 370/12 £169.98 £203.98
£
29EX.VAT Drill bit guide
930 x 640mm
Table
£
229.98
BS1 £
35.98 ensures
EXC.VAT
sharpening at the £21EXC.VAT

CDP301B 510/12 £199.98 £239.98 INC.VAT £ .99 £
CDP451F 510/16 £239.98 £287.98 MODEL WATT M/MIN EX VAT INC VAT
*110V in stock 275 .98
INC.VAT
CDP501F 980/12 £429.00 £514.80 Clarke BS1 900w 380 £29.98 £35.98 correct angle 26INC.VAT
.39
MODEL SHEET SIZE MOTOR EX VAT INC VAT WAS £287.98 inc.VAT
Clarke CBS2 1200w 480 £69.98 £83.98 Saves cost of COS200 190X90mm 150w £12.99 £15.59
B=Bench mounted new drills C0N300 230X115mm 330w £29.98 £35.98 13" MINI
Makita 9911 650w 75-270 £94.99 £113.99
F=Floor standing Makita 112X102mm 200w £54.99 £65.99 WOOD LATHE
BO455* £
BISCUIT JOINER PORTABLE 129EX.VAT
.98
£
RANDOM ORBITAL 860W Motor THICKNESSER 1000MM VARIABLE 155INC.VAT
.98
SANDER 11000rpm Operating Speed • Max thickness SPEED WOOD LATHE

CROS1 14mm Cutting Depth capacity 130mm
£ .99
27EX.VAT • Planing depths CWL1000V
£
33INC.VAT
.59 adjustable
from 0-2.5mm
• Powerful SUPPLED
1250w motor WITH CWL325V
• For sanding £
& polishing
£
• 8000rpm ROBUST
STEEL
239EXC.VAT
.00
• Ideal for enthusiasts/
• 125mm .98
49EXC.VAT no-load speed STAND
£
286INC.VAT
.80
hobbyists with small workshops
diameter £ £
179.98
sanding discs 59INC.VAT
.98
EX.VAT
• Large 350mm turning capacity • Variable speed • 325mm distance between centres • 200mm
• 4000-11000 opm INC 5 DISCS BJ900 £
215.98
INC.VAT CPT250 • Lockable tailstock • High quality cast iron build max. turning capacity (dia) • 0.2Hp motor
SAVE
BOLTLESS • Simple fast assembly PLANERS &
in minutes using only a 3 PCE CHISEL SET
SHELVING BENCHES THICKNESSERS
10%
hammer FROM ONLY WOODWORKING INCLUDED WITH
CWL1000
£ .98
29EX.VAT CPT800 LATHES
£
35.98
INC.VAT WHEN YOU BUY
ANY MIX OF 5 CWL1000
FROM THIS RANGE
SAVE AT LEAST
£17.99 INC.VAT
• Ideal for DIY &
CHOICE OF 5 COLOURS
Hobby use •Dual FROM ONLY
purpose, for both
ALSO EXTRA WIDE
RED, BLUE, BLACK, finishing & sizing of
£
139.98EX.VAT
INDUSTRIAL UNITS
SILVER & GALVANISED
STEEL
timber (CP-6 planer only) £
167.98INC.VAT SEE CATALOGUE
AVAILABLE MODEL MOTOR MAX THICK. EXC. INC. FOR ACCESSORIES
(evenly (evenly MODEL SHELF DIMS CAPACITY VAT VAT
MODEL CENTRE TO TURNING TURNING EX INC
3
distributed) distributed) CP-6 1100w * £139.98 £167.98 FROM ONLY
WxDxH(mm) EX VAT INC VAT CENTRE (mm) CAP. SPEEDS VAT VAT £
Strong 9mm Strong 12 mm 150Kg 800x300x1500 £29.98 £35.98 CPT600 1250w 120mm £169.98 £203.98
CWL1000 1016 350mm 4 £114.99 £137.99 114EX.VAT
.99
CPT800 1250w 120mm £189.98 £227.98 £
fibreboard
PER SHELF shelves PER SHELF
fibreboard
shelves
350Kg 900x400x1800 £49.98 £59.98
CPT1000 NEW 1500w 120mm £269.98 £323.98 CWL12D 940 305mm 5 £189.98 £227.98
.99
137INC.VAT
23228(LH)
012_013_WPP_106.indd 12 3/24/15 12:57 PM

£
144EXC.VAT
.99
visit machinemart.co.uk
GET
MORTISING £173INC.VAT
MACHINE
.99
CBM1B
Accurately creates deep square
recesses Table size 150 x 340mm
Maximum chisel cap.76mm Robust
FOR
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500
PAGE
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cast iron base & column ensures
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See www.machinemart.co.uk
SPECIALIST PRODUCTS
CLICK &
1500 PRICE CUTS &
• IN-STORE
• ONLINE
NEW PRODUCTS • PHONE
CHISELS AVAILABLE FROM
£7.99 EX VAT £9.59 INC VAT COLLECT 0844 880 1265
WOODWORKING 10" SLIDING MITRE SAWS DUST EXTRACTOR/

QUALITY CAST
VICES MITRE SAW CHIP COLLECTORS
IRON STOVES
FROM ONLY
• For fast, accurate
cross, bevel & £ METABO LARGE & XL MODELS
£ .49
13EX.VAT mitre cutting in
119.98
EXC.VAT ALSO
20 GREAT STYLES
IN STOCK IN STOCK
£
£
16.19
INC.VAT most hard & soft 143.98
INC.VAT AVAILABLE
FLUES, COWLS &
woods
• 1800w FROM ONLY ACCESSORIES IN POT BELLY
WV7 £ STOCK
motor 54EXC.VAT
.99
PRICE CUT
MODEL MOUNTING JAW • Laser guide £
65INC.VAT
.99 £
(WIDTH/OPENING £ 89.98 EXC.VAT
/DEPTH)mm EXC.VAT INC.VAT

129EXC.VAT
.98
11.8kW
£
107 .98
INC.VAT
£
Clarke Bolted 150/152/61 £13.49 £16.19 155INC.VAT
.98
TH-SM 2534 • Powerful WAS £113.98 inc.VAT
CHT152 750w motor
Stanley Clamped 72/60/40 £16.99 £20.39 CMS10S2 • Quality Range of Mitre saws and blades available
MODEL BLADE DIA MAX CUT EX. INC. • 56 litre bag capacity
Multi Angle • Flow rate of 850M3/h
Record V75B Clamped 75/50/32 £18.99 £22.79 MITRE SAW BORE (mm)DEPTH/CROSS VAT VAT
6.9kW
Clarke WV7 Bolted 180/205/78 £24.99 £29.99 STAND Einhell 210/30 55/120mm £54.99 £65.99 FLOW BAG
TH-MS 2112 MODEL MOTOR RATE CAP. EX VAT INC VAT
WHETSTONE Fury 3 210/25.4 60/200mm £119.98 £143.98 CDE35B 750w 850 M3/h 56Ltrs £119.98 £143.98 BARREL
Einhell 250/30 75/340mm £159.98 £191.98 £
SHARPENER CFMSS1 TH-SM2534
CDE7B 750w 850 M3/h 114Ltrs £139.98 £167.98 209EXC.VAT
.00
£
• Produces accurate CWS200
£ Makita 260/30 95/130mm £199.98 £239.98 250INC.VAT
.80
razor sharp cutting 64EXC.VAT

.99
LS1040
edges on chisels, £
77INC.VAT
.99
ROTARY TOOL CIRCULAR SAWS
scissors, tools etc DUST CDE1000 FROM ONLY
• 120w motor • Suitable for most KIT EXTRACTOR
Great range of DIY £
34EXC.VAT
.99
• Grinding disc 200mm sizes/makes of saw and professional £
• Wet bath • Leather • Inc. outriggers & rollers CRT40 • 50 litre tank capacity saws Ideal for 41INC.VAT
.99
£ • 183 m3/h flow rate bevel cutting

honing £
wheel 109EX.VAT
.98 29EX.VAT
.98
• 1000W (0-45°)
£ .98
131INC.VAT DOVETAIL JIG
£
35INC.VAT
.98
input OTHER £
99.98
EX.VAT
wattage MODELS CON185
• Simple, easy to set up & use for producing Kit includes: AVAILABLE 119.98
£
INC.VAT
TURBO AIR a variety of joints • Cuts work pieces with a • Height adjustable stand with clamp • Rotary tool *Includes
COMPRESSORS thickness of 8-32mm • Includes a 1/2" comb • 1m flexible drive • 40x accessories/consumables
BENCH GRINDERS laser guide
template guide & holes for bench mounting 6" BENCH GRINDER
• Superb range HUGE RANGE PRICE CUT
& STANDS MODEL MOTOR MAX CUT
ideal for DIY, £ WITH SANDING BELT • Stands come 90/45
hobby & semi-
OF AIR TOOLS
IN STOCK
54EXC.VAT
.99
complete with
6" & 8"
AVAILABLE (mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT
professional
£
65 .99
INC.VAT • For sanding/shaping £
49.98
EX.VAT bolt mountings WITH LIGHT Clarke
wood, CCS185B 1200W 65/44 £34.99 £41.99
use WAS £71.98 inc.VAT
plastic
£
59.98
INC.VAT
and feet
anchor holes Clarke
& CBG6SB STAND AVAILABLE FROM CC52 1300W 60/45 £59.98 £71.98
CLARKE 8MM CDTJ12 FROM ONLY ONLY £41.99 EX.VAT
metal £ Clarke
AIR HOSE Router not • Supplied 27EX.VAT
.99
£50.39 INC.VAT
CON185* 1600W 60/40 £59.98 £71.98
FROM ONLY £
£5.99 EX VAT
included with coarse 33INC.VAT
.59
£7.19 INC VAT grinding HARDWOOD

wheel WORKBENCH
ROUTERS & sanding belt CBG8W Includes bench dogs and guide holes for
features variable work positioning 2 Heavy Duty Vices
CR1C 8" whetstone & Large storage draw Sunken tool trough
FROM ONLY 6"drystone. LxWxH 1520x620x855mm
£ # With sanding belt
79EXC.VAT
.98
FROM ONLY
£
95INC.VAT
.98
8/250
£ .98
39EX.VAT CR2 ROUTER MODEL DUTY WHEEL
DIA. EX VAT INC VAT
MODEL MOTOR CFM TANK EX VAT INC VAT £
47.98
INC.VAT
£
109.98
EX.VAT
CBG6RP DIY 150mm £27.99 £33.59
Tiger 8/250 2Hp 7.5 24ltr £79.98 £95.98 ACCESSORIES
£
131.98
INC.VAT CBG6RZ PRO 150mm £37.99 £45.59 CHB1500
Tiger 7/250 2 Hp 7 24ltr £89.98 £107.98 IN STOCK • Powerful heavy CBG6RSC HD 150mm £47.99 £57.59
Tiger 8/36 1.5 Hp 6.3 24ltr £109.98 £131.98 duty machine CBG6SB# PRO 150mm £49.98 £59.98
£
Tiger 11/250 2.5Hp 9.5 24ltr £119.98 £143.98 ideal for CBG6RWC HD 150mm £54.99 £65.99 129EXC.VAT
.98
Tiger 8/510 2Hp 7.5 50ltr £129.98 £155.98 * DIY trade use CBG8W (wet) HD 150/200mm £55.99 £67.19 £
Tiger 11/510 2.5Hp 9.5 50ltr £149.98 £179.98 MODEL MOTOR PLUNGE EX VAT INC VAT • Variable 155INC.VAT
.98
Tiger 16/510 3 Hp 14.5 50ltr £219.98 £263.98 (W) (mm) speed control from
Tiger 16/1010 3 Hp 14.5 100ltr £269.98 £323.98 CR1C* 1200 0-50 £39.98 £47.98 7,400-21, 600 rpm • 2100w motor • 0-60mm 5PCE FORSTNER
Bosch 1400 0-55 £74.99 £89.99 plunge depth. CR3 Router with 15 Piece Bit Set BIT SET
TABLE SAW WITH POF1400ACE also available only £94.99 Contains 15, 20, 25, 30 &
£113.99 255mm 35mm bits Titanium
CTS14
EXTENSION SCROLL SAWS INCLUDES 15 MULTI- nitride coated for
TABLES (250mm) PIECE SET WORTH PURPOSE improved
Ideal for cross cutting, OVER £20 cutting finish
ripping, angle and FROM ONLY TABLE
mitre cutting
£
64EXC.VAT
.99 SAWS 9EXC.VAT
£ .98
ROUTER TABLE FURY 5 ONLY £
Easy
release
£
77INC.VAT
.99
CRT-1
£
149 EXC.VAT.98 11INC.VAT
.98 CHT365
/ locking •120w, 230v Router not £
NEW mechanism motor • 50mm included 179 .98
INC.VAT
WAS £191.98 inc.VAT
for table max cut thickness
• 400-1,700rpm variable MODEL MAX TABLE EXC. INC.
extensions 0-45° tilting DEPTH CUT SIZE (mm) VAT VAT
blade Cutting depth: speed • Air-blower removes
dust from cutting area CSS16V 45° 90°
72mm at 90° / FURY5* 54mm 73mm 625x444 £149.98 £179.98
£ .98
119EXC.VAT 65mm at 45°
MODEL MOTOR RPM
SPEED EX
VAT
INC
VAT
£
56EX.VAT
.99 RAGE5‡ 55mm 79mm 868x444 £269.00 £322.80
£ 230V/50Hz,
143INC.VAT Motor:
.98
1800W, CSS400B 85w 1450 £64.99 £77.99 • Converts your router £ .39
68INC.VAT *FURY power: 1500w (110V available) MUCH MORE
No load speed: 4700rpm CSS16V 120w 400-1700 £79.98 £95.98 into a stationary router ‡RAGE power: 1800w/230V (110V available)
CSS400C* 90w 550-1600 £99.98 £119.98 table • Suitable for most table extensions included WOODWORKING
Shown with optional leg kit
CLK5 £22.99 exc.VAT £27.59 inc.VAT * Includes flexible drive kit for grinding/polishing/sanding routers (up to 155mm dia. Base plate) * was £191.98 inc.VAT ‡ was £334.80 inc.VAT ONLINE
V
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012_013_WPP_106.indd 13 3/24/15 12:57 PM

014_WPP_106.indd 14 3/26/15 11:38 AM
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEE STOFFER
PROJECT
Carving a
natural-edge bowl
Lee Stoffer makes a carved wooden bowl
F 1
ollowing on from my spoon The first step is to select a
carving article, I thought it reasonably straight and clean
might be a nice idea to carve a section of log and cleave it in half,
natural-edge bowl for my next green then half again so you have a radially
woodworking project. The process is cleft quarter of the log to work with. Things you will need
fairly straightforward, although a few In my case, the bark was coming
more tools are required, including the loose, so I removed it at this stage. • A fresh cut silver birch (Betula
means to clamp the bowl in order to pendula) log – 300mm diameter
free up both hands to control some and around 400mm long
of the tools properly. The device I’m • A froe or splitting wedges
using is a bowl horse, based on a • Carving axe
design by an American bowl carver, • Hollowing adze
David Fisher. Before I built this I used • Draw knife
to use a simple low bench with holes • Gouges and/or spoon knives
drilled through so pegs and wedges • Spokeshave
could be used to secure the bowl
• Hand plane
blank. The bowl horse is much more
• Bowl horse/bench
versatile, allowing for quick release
and repositioning of the bowl blank. • Club or mallet
As always, I would recommend that • Chopping block
you are familiar with safe techniques • Saw
for using the required tools before • Raw – cold pressed – linseed oil
attempting this project. 1

PROJECT
2 If you are working with a log that

has been cut for a few months,
you need to trim back the ends to get
rid of any slight cracks that may be
starting to appear in the end grain.
If your wood is fresher cut, you may
be able to avoid this stage. Always
check this before starting to prepare
your log.
3 Next, tangentially cleave off the

point that was nearest the centre
of the log; this will become the base
of the bowl.
2 3
4 Clean up and start to flatten the

base of the log with an axe. It may
help to draw a line on the end grain,
which joins the two furthest points;
this will give you a reference line to
keep the base parallel to.
5 The next step is to clamp the bowl

blank and refine the base with a
drawknife or scrub plane; this will
give you a reasonably flat surface.
6 At this point, use a bench plane

to impart a clean and flat finished
surface on your log.
4 5
7 The next job is to start hollowing

from the bark side of the blank.
I recommend clamping the blank
on a solid flat surface for this. When
using a hollowing or gutter adze to
chop out the waste, the chips do fly
so eye protection is well advised here!
Remove waste from the centre of the
blank first, then enlarge the hollow
outwards. Cutting direction should be
from rim to centre.
8 If you don’t have an adze or are

not confident with one, then a
mallet and suitable gouge can be used
for this rough hollowing stage. Here,
6 7
I’m using a smaller adze with a mallet
when approaching what will be the
rim of the bowl.
9 Leave around 15mm of rim at

the edge and 40-50mm each end
– at this stage the base should be
at least 20mm thick. To check this,
place the bowl on a flat surface, lay a
straightedge across the rim so it sits
parallel to the bench, then measure
down to the bottom of the hollow and
the bench surface from the straight
edge, with the difference between the
measurements being the thickness of
the base. 8 9
WPP106 P15-18 CARVED BOWLtfJRABSD.indd 16 24/03/2015 09:46

PROJECT
1588
Seat Board
51
51 305
51 64 38 159 Swing Arm Detail
Bed Board
64
Ø13 51 203
76
1219 86
Ø13
51 25
51 305
51 25 51 25
102
Plan
432 184
178 102 38
159
BOWL CLAMPING HORSE DESIGN COURTESY OF DAVID FISHER
958 51 305
381 51
38
203 102 51 51 51
25
76
Plan of Footboard
838 51
737 1588
432 Side Elevation

102 499
431 Rear Elevation 15°
102
15° 51 76
522
Lee has altered the design for his bowl horse to suit the timber he had available at the time
10 Refine the finish of the inside

with gouges or spoon knives.
This will be repeated when the bowl
has dried, but it’s much easier to get it
close to finished while still green.
11 Remove some waste from the

outside, starting with a saw
and removing the corners from base
to rim. Remove all four corners from
the natural-edge side with the saw.
12 With the bulky waste removed,

refine the outside shape with
a carving axe. A heavy axe makes 10 11
this work easier and if you prefer,
you could skip the sawing stage and
remove all of the waste with the axe.
Work with the grain and use a slicing
motion to reduce any impact shock.
13 Add a recess in the end grain

with an adze to provide a slight
hollow for fingers when picking it
up and to add a nice design feature.
The deepest part of the recess should
leave a minimum of 10mm wall
thickness. If you prefer the outside
without the recess, just use it as a wall
thickness indicator and blend it into
the side walls with the draw knife. 12 13

PROJECT
14 If the bowl can be held

satisfactorily, then a draw knife
works very well for refining the outer
shape of the bowl. This is where the
bowl horse comes into its own as it
enables me to quickly release and
reposition the bowl to work on it at
any angle. At this stage, the aim is to
work down to an even wall thickness
of around 10mm; you’ll find that this
will be slightly thicker around the
edges of the finger recesses.
15 At this stage, it’s best to let

the bowl dry out a bit before
you commence the finishing. Leave it
14 15
in a cool place out of direct sunlight

for a week or two. If you want to
get technical about it, you could
weigh the bowl before drying and
re-weigh once a week until it stops
losing weight. If you’re in a hurry
to use your bowl, you could try the
microwave drying technique.
“A spokeshave works
very well on the outside
of the bowl...”
16 17
16 When the moisture content is

satisfactorily reduced, finish off
the bowl by recarving all the surfaces,
which will allow you to achieve a
clean tooled finish. A spokeshave
works very well on the outside of the
bowl and to clean up the interior,
use a large open sweep spoon knife.
17 With all the carving now

completed, it’s time to apply
some oil to protect the wood and
bring out the beauty of the grain.
Here you can choose your favourite
food-safe finishing oil. In my case,
this is cold pressed linseed oil, which 18
is just poured directly into the bowl.
18 Rub the oil into the wood

with either your hand or apply
with a brush if you prefer. With raw
linseed there is no need to wipe off
any excess as it will all soak into the
wood before it dries, which can take
a while. I usually wait at least a month
before I use any items oiled with it.
Patience is a virtue here!
19 Hopefully, you should end

up with an attractive and
functional bowl that can be used to
serve food from for years to come. ■ 19

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019_WPP_106.indd 19 3/25/15 9:56 AM

Live Oak Bank
FEATURE
Headquaters,
North Carolina,
Jury’s choice
winner
The 2015
Wood
Design
Awards
The 2015 Wood
Design Awards took
place on 27 January,
2015 at the Bay Area
Wood Solutions Fair in
Oakland, California
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK HERBOTH PHOTOGRAPHY
WPP106 P20-23 WOOD AWARDStfJRABSD.indd 20 18/03/2015 13:06

FEATURE
A
n initiative of the Wood Products Council –
a cooperative venture of major North American
wood associations as well as government agencies
and other funding partners – WoodWorks hosted the 2015
Wood Design Awards to celebrate the innovative thinking
that continues to expand the possibilities for wood use.
WoodWorks
WoodWorks provide free one-on-one project assistance as
well as education and resources related to code-compliant
design, engineering and the construction of non-residential
and multi-family wood buildings, offering support from
design through to construction.
The WoodWorks staff have expertise in a wide range of
building types – from schools and mid-rise/multi-family,
multi-residential, educational, to commercial, corporate,
franchise, retail, public, institutional and more. WoodWorks
objective is to make it easier to design, engineer and
construct wood buildings at less cost.
WoodWorks promotes building with wood as it typically
provides value – in terms of its beauty, design flexibility
and environmental attributes – for less cost than other
major building materials. Wood structures can be designed
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT BENSON PHOTOGRAPHY
for safety and code acceptance. Wood performs well in

earthquakes and high winds, because wood-frame buildings
are lighter and have more repetition and ductility than
structures built with other materials; they are effective
at resisting lateral and uplift forces. Wood in Educational
Wood buildings are adaptable – in North America, Buildings
buildings are often demolished before the end of their Indian Mountain Student Arts
useful service lives because of changing needs and & Innovation Center,
Connecticut
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK HERBOTH PHOTOGRAPHY
increasing land values as opposed to performance issues.

– Architect: Flansburgh
Wood is an inherently green building material. It grows
Architects
naturally, is renewable and life cycle assessment – LCA
– studies consistently show that it outperforms other
materials in terms of embodied energy, air pollution
and water pollution. Wood can contribute to a building’s Wood Solutions Fairs
energy efficiency and reduce its carbon footprint. Wood Solutions Fairs are the cornerstone of WoodWorks’
It is also thought to have a positive impact on the health educational programme. These full-day conferences pack
and well-being of occupants as well as being an effective an informational punch with several tracks of concurrent
way to reduce a building’s carbon footprint, as mentioned seminars on a wide range of topics, as well as a trade
above. Wood building products continue to store carbon exposition focused exclusively on the design of wood
absorbed during the tree’s growing cycle, keeping it out of buildings. Fairs are held six times a year across the country
the atmosphere indefinitely. and attract hundreds of engineers, architects, code officials
and others with an interest in wood design.
Other training opportunities include workshops,
The awards
luncheon seminars, in-house ‘lunch and learns’ and
Categories in the Wood Design Awards, presented on
monthly webinars. Visit www.woodworks.org for a
27 January, 2015 included: ‘Jury’s Choice’, ‘Institutional
calendar of upcoming events or to contact a member of
Wood Design’, ‘Wood in Educational Buildings’, ‘Beauty WoodWorks regional staff for an in-house presentation.
of Wood’, ‘Multi-story Wood Design’, ‘Wood in Government
Buildings’, ‘Green Building with Wood’, ‘Commercial
Wood Design – Industrial’, and ‘Commercial Wood that exemplify, not only wood’s beauty, but also the
Design – Office’. As well as these awards, there will also versatility and structural performance attributes that make
be seven Regional Excellence Awards presented at regional it such an interesting material to architects and engineers.
Wood Solutions Fairs, beginning with the Bay Area Wood Collectively, this year’s award-winning projects celebrate
Solutions Fair in Oakland. the kind of innovative thinking that continues to expand
Executive Director of WoodWorks Jennifer Cover explains the possibilities for wood use – and bring wood’s cost,
of the Wood Design Awards: “The Wood Design Awards sustainability and other advantages to a wider range of
are an opportunity to recognise extraordinary buildings projects.”

‹
PHOTOGRAPH BY LIFESTRING PHOTOGRAPHY
Multi-story Wood Design
N-Habit Belltown, Washington
– Architect: Bushnaq Studio Architecture + Design
PHOTOGRAPH BY SOZINHO IMAGERY

PHOTOGRAPH BY NAHO KUBOTA
Beauty of Wood
Stapleton Library, New York Green Building with Wood
– Architect: Andrew Berman Architect Reveley Classroom Building at the University of Idaho, Idaho
– Architect: Patano Studio Architecture, LLC
PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW MILLMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

Institutional Wood Design
Jackson Hole Airport, Wyoming
– Architect: Gensler

FEATURE
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREAS SAUTER, TIM CLAY PHOTOGRAPHY
PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN EDWARD LINDEN PHOTOGRAPHY

Commercial Wood Design – Industrial Wood in Government Buildings
Sauter Timber Production Facility, Tennessee
Mojave Rivers Ranger Station, California
– Architect: Sauter Timber LLC
– Architect: Marcy Wong Donn Logan Architects
Paul Murdoch Architects – Venture Commercial Wood Design – Office

Capital Office Headquarters Venture Capital Office Headquarters, California
Paul Murdoch Architects say of their winning – Architect: Paul Murdoch Architects
building: “The architecture embodies the
PHOTOGRAPH BY SOZINHO IMAGERY
culture of this innovative company. Using

strong interior accent colours with fine, straight
grained wood, the bold yet understated design
of this venture firm’s headquarters expresses
the company’s reputation for both risk taking
PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIC STAUDENMAIER PHOTOGRAPHY
with clean technology companies in potentially

major, disruptive markets and sophisticated,
in-depth analysis.”
Paul Murdoch is founder and president of
Paul Murdoch Architects, with over 30 years
of experience in the design and management
of a wide variety of building projects. Paul
has spoken extensively on the critical role of
design in improving life through topics such
as sustainable development, ecological urban
planning, building re-use and the poetics and
practicality of recycling.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW MILLMAN PHOTOGRAPHY
REGIONAL EXCELLENCE WINNERS
Bensonwood – Burr and Burton

Academy’s Mountain Campus
Randall Walter, Bensonwood’s head of
architecture and design, worked closely
with the Burr and Burton team to design
and build the environmentally conscious
building as a living classroom. They worked
to ensure that the building not only fit into
the natural surroundings, but truly became
part of the learning experience for the
students, blending scientific architecture
with artistic abstraction. The build is now
LEED® Platinum Certified and currently
produces more energy than it consumes.
Bensonwood is a full-service design-build-
engineering company building sustainably
PHOTOGRAPH BY AL KAREVY
worldwide since 1973. Company founder

Tedd Benson is a popular writer and
lecturer on sustainable building and led
the revival of timber-frame building in the
United States 40 years ago, writing several
bestselling books on the craft.

FEATURE
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALAN KARCHMER ARCHITECTURAL PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPH BY BRAD ANDERSON
SAC Federal Credit Union
Headquarters
– Architect: LEO A DALY
PHOTOGRAPH BY TRIPP BULLA

University of North Carolina at Greensboro
Dining Hall Renovation
– Architect: Gantt Huberman Architects
Dynerman Architects PC –
The Georgetown University
Calcagnini Contemplative Center
The Georgetown University Calcagnini
Contemplative Center serves the retreat
programmes for Georgetown University.
The centre is comprised of a number of
buildings: a Dining Hall, Chapel, Community
Building, an existing residence built circa
1885 and 30 cabins. The design is organised
around two courtyards; a public one with the
dining hall, community building, chapel and
entry court, and a smaller-scale private court
PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE KING
centred on the ranges of cabins.

Saint Edward Dynerman Architects is a small, versatile
Catholic and design-oriented firm, which is led by
Church
Alan Dynerman. Dynerman Architects has
– Architect:
securely earned a reputation for listening
Di Loreto
Architecture, to and embracing their clients’ goals,
LLC professional service and design excellence.
Embracing these essential ideas, their body
of work does not cleave to specific styles or
trends, formal or philosophical.
For more information on WoodWorks,

visit: www.woodworks.org ■
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS STEFFENS
PHOTOGRAPH BY RICARDO LOPEZ
Angeles National Forest Supervisor’s Office Building Project: ARCHITECTURE

– Architect: HMC Architects – Architect: Integrated Technology in
Architecture Center, University of Utah

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15-095 WW Books Filler Ad FINAL.indd 25 3/26/15 11:36 AM

Book & DVD reviews
FEATURE
Derek Jones, Briony Darnley and Mark Baker

review two books and a DVD for you to enjoy
BOOK OFFER
Taunton’s Complete Illustrated Guide
to Using Woodworking Tools
by Lonnie Bird
This book by Lonnie Bird is an standing in the workshop. Packed
enthusiastically written guide with with information, you will not be
over 850 good quality photographs intimidated as Lonnie explains his
and simple-to-understand illustrations methods, hints and instructions for
on using hand and power tools. The using specific tools very clearly. He
guide is a good mix of text and images, breaks up the text with a number
with a photograph-based contents, of information boxes for quick
organised for quick access. As Lonnie reference, which are easy to spot
points out, in the guide he addresses while browsing the guide.
using ‘all tools found in a modern Lonnie looks at helping you choose
workshop’, with chapters on working the right tool, as well as mastering
with wood, outfitting the shop, hand-tool skills, setting up machines,
benches and clamps, gluing and making accurate cuts and using jigs
DETAILS:
assembly, measuring and marking and fixtures. The step-by-step photo
ISBN: 9781631860850
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To order please call 01273 488 005 or go As with most Taunton guides, a confusion while reading. Lonnie has
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code: R4782 Closing date: 16 July, 2015. book’ features at the beginning and reading’ materials at the back of the
P&P is £2.95 for the first item and £1.95 large text is used throughout the guide for those who are interested
for each additional item book, which is great for reading while in exploring the subject further.
Georgian Architecture in A History of Turning

the British Isles 1714–1830 by Stuart King
by James Stevens Curl This DVD contains sections
This book teaches you about the society on a history of turning,
that made this architecture possible in the German toy town, Bill Jones
first place. In short, it adds personal interest on turning a pawn, turning
to what could be a rather dry subject. The in Morocco, Romania, Japan,
book is broken up into 10 different chapters and much more.
and anyone with an interest in the built Stuart iis a renowned
S d authority
h on traditional turning
environment would do well to read this styles and in this DVD, has captured styles of turning
book. Without a doubt, Georgian architecture is the master from around the world and also through history. Some
of appearance and façade and maybe that’s something that’s of the sections have a narrative and some do not, but
missing from contemporary design? this does not diminish the joy of seeing the various
For the more studious reader, Georgian Architecture is parts. The picture quality is fair; some of the camera
expertly catalogued with a comprehensive bibliography that angles could have been positioned better to show some
serves as an important reference for any further reading or of the cuts a bit more clearly, but that is also one of the
research, but ultimately a little time spent with it on your lap challenges one faces in restricted work areas.
will enable you learn all there is to know. This DVD is a delightful snapshot of types of turning
and how people work and with what.
DETAILS:
ISBN: 9781848020863 DETAILS:
Price: £50 Price: £21.50
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WPP106 P26_BOOK_REVIEWStfJRAB.indd 26 18/03/2015 13:08

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027_WPP_106.indd 27 3/25/15 9:58 AM

TECHNIQUE
Joint solutions
Tongue & groove

We are nearly at TYPES OF TONGUE & GROOVE
the end of the road
looking at different
joint types. In this issue,
the Editor looks at
a favourite of his, the
tongue & groove joint
T
he tongue & groove is a very
functional universal kind of
joint that often gets ignored Beaded tongue
because it turns up in many places & groove Cabin tongue & groove
quite naturally. It tends to be used on
thinner stock and is used as a means
of side-by-side jointing or corner
jointing, in the case of drawers.
When used to cover wide areas, it
is dry jointed to allow for shrinkage.
Narrow areas are usually glued
together, such as for benchtop or the
corner joints for drawer boxes, which
must be glued for strength. It has the
advantage of location, strength and
a means of extending board width
in an aesthetically pleasing manner
while disguising joint movement.
You can buy softwood TGV but if
you want another timber species,
you can actually make it yourself. Corner tongue & groove
28 WPP
28 ISSUE 106
WOODWORKING PLANS & PROJECTS ISSUE 72 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WPP106 P28-31 JOINT SOLUTIONStfABSDJR.indd 28 18/03/2015 13:17

TECHNIQUE
Chipboard tongue & groove
Dovetail tongue
& groove
Loglap tongue
& groove
Plain tongue & groove
Ply tongue & groove
V-groove tongue & groove
Shiplap nail tongue & groove

Secret nail tongue & groove
MAKING TONGUE & GROOVE JOINTS

By hand finishing the lower section of walls,
This needs some old-fashioned especially in functional spaces, such
tools and skill to match. There are as reading rooms, village halls,
a number of plough planes available kitchens, etc. Used like this with a
secondhand, which is the cheaper, bull-nose moulding along the top,
easier way to buy them as the few it is known as a wainscot; this has
new equivalents are very expensive. seen a revival in recent times where
Basically, you get a set of cutters that this retro style seems appropriate.
can be fitted individually in a special As I have found, working with these
body. This has a fence and a depth planes is definitely a learning curve.
stop so you can set the tongue or 1
groove width and its depth.
The cutters need careful sharpening;
better sets come with bead cutters
1 This Clifton combination plane is
in mint condition with a price on
its head – note the comprehensive set
to create a bead edge that not only of cutters for grooving, tongues, beads
emphasises the joint in a pleasing and roundovers.
traditional manner, but also disguises
any flaws or timber movement,
which may occur. There is a learnt
skill in setting up a plough plane
2 I’m going to make do with a much
cheaper secondhand Record
044 model with a set of rusty, pitted
and getting it to work well. Made up blades. Here I have been flatting and
panels of tongue & groove with bead honing them with a combination 300
or V-groove effect were popular in and 1,000 mesh diamond plate and
Victorian and Edwardian times for lapping fluid. 2
www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 72 WOODWORKING PLANS &ISSUE
PROJECTS
106 WPP 29
29
‹
TECHNIQUE
4 5
6 7
3 Having got a good edge and with

the blade projecting below the
base a tiny amount, I managed to get
6 The result is a plain tongue &
groove joint. It is quite hard,
controlled work and only a thin
some decent shavings and form the shaving can be taken with each pass
tongue with the wide tongue cutter. to avoid tearing of the wood.
4 The tongue cutter only needs to

project very slightly below the
very narrow base. The upstand behind
7 An edge bead can be produced
with a suitable bead cutter from
the set that comes with the plane.
is the fence, which has a recess to Again, the tips of the cutter only just
accept the tongue cutter when close project below the base. The depth
to the plane body. stop is missing but it was easy to see
when the shape had formed properly.
5 Now for the matching grooving

blade, which is the same width
as the gap in the tongue cutter. 8 When two or more boards are
fitted together, you not only get
At all times, the fence needs to be a pleasing effect but it also has the
pressed firmly against the side of the benefit of disguising any gapping and
workpiece. The thin body section therefore allows for shrinkage. Used
underneath is all that is riding on the as wainscoting to cover a lower wall
workpiece, which can be problematic section, it would have a moulding
8 if it drops into the groove. capping the top edge.
30 WPP
30 ISSUE 106

TECHNIQUE
9 10 11
12 13 14
By Machine
It is much, much easier to machine
these joints, especially in quantity.
components making the arbor system
quite versatile. 15 An alternative is to have an
edge bead on the board half
with the groove and a plain tongue
It is a joint that actually seems made
for machine rather than by hand.
Whether it is a loose tongue, plain,
11 With the bearing fitted and the
nut tightened, the fence is set
flush with the bearing. A breakthrough
on the other board’s meeting edge.
When fitted together, you get a
pleasing traditional wainscot effect.
TG and V or TG and bead there are fence is not required so long as the
cutters available to make it. Different
cutter sets may work in different ways
fence faces are in good condition.
16 The edge bead is another
effective and decorative joint.
and you need to check the supplied
instructions to use them correctly. 12 The cutter produces a smooth
planer finish as the tongue is
formed. Quite a lot of chippings are
I used a Titman cutter from their
beading range. If you want to use
tongue & groove joints, then an
9 Here are a selection of cutters,

which can find uses creating
tongue & groove joints. We are going
produced during this stage, so dust
extraction is a must.
investment in a proper T&G or TG&V
cutter set, possibly with an edge bead
cutter as well, is an investment that
will pay for itself quickly. ■
to use the special Wealden TG&V
cutter set mid right in this photo.
It will do the whole operation
13 The bearing is now replaced
with the groover and the fence
set so the groove depth is the same SUPPLIERS
with just one cutter by changing or a fraction deeper than the tongue. Wealden Tool Company
over the groove cutter for a bearing. Both sets of cuts produce one half of Tel: 01580 890 500
the ‘V’ shape, which is complete when Web: www.wealdentool.com
10 Although it comes supplied

with the groover fitted, it is
the boards are fitted together.
Titman Tip Tools
Tel: 01255 220 123
the bearing that is needed first, as
it determines the exact depth of the
tongue. Wealden can supply extra
14 This joint not only looks
good, but it also hides any
discrepancies in surface levels.
Web: www.titman.co.uk
15 16
PROJECTS
106 WPP 31
31

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PROJECT
Things you will need

• Panelsaw and/or tablesaw
• Mitre saw
• Pillar drill and/or hand drill
• Drill bits – various sizes
• Router
• Router table – if you have one
• 6mm and 19mm router cutters
• Squares – various sizes
• Chisels – various sizes
• Jack plane
• Iron – for veneer edging
PHOTOGRAPH BY MEGAN ROSE PHOTOGRAPHY
• Sash clamps
• ‘G’ clamps
• ‘Machine bit’ - for hinge sinking in
laminates or suitable alternative
• Screwdriver
• Cabinet scraper
• Abrasives
• PPE: latex gloves, facemask,
respirator/dust mask and
extraction
Oak
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE BIGGS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
TV cabinet
Louise Biggs makes this oak TV cabinet
A 1 1
customer requested a TV The first step, before cutting the
cabinet to match the music board for the panels, is to find
cabinet I had made for her an area of board that is larger than
some years ago. Like many of us, required; this will create the two
she had to purchase a new TV when doors and give you an attractive
technology changed over and could grain pattern or a grain pattern that
not get the screen at the right height is mirrored down the join line. You
for comfortable viewing. Having need to reserve this piece for later on
discussed the ideal height with her in step 22.
and the other dimensions, work
started. As before, oak (Quercus
robur) veneered MDF would be used
throughout and the colour would be
2 Cut the various panels required
on a panelsaw or tablesaw. Next,
align the two side panels and mark off
matched to that of the music cabinet. the position of the bottom panel on
Work out a cutting list from the the edge of the panels. You can then
drawing or by drawing up a full-size draw these lines across the inside
workshop rod. faces of the side panels. 2

PROJECT
3 Mark three heights on the side,
for the shelf rest ferrules: centre
height and then 50mm above and
below this height. Square the lines
across the board. Position the ferrules
36mm in from the back and 25mm
back from the front edge of the shelf.
4 Realign the side panels and

transfer the height lines for the
shelf rests to the second side. Drill
the holes for the ferrules on a pillar
drill or with a hand drill, but create a
depth stop to mark the depth needed 3 4
for the ferrules.
5 Using a router, cut the grooves

into the sides for the loose
tongues to fit the bottom panel. The
router cutter should correspond to
the thickness of the ply for the loose
tongue – in this case 6mm. Stop the
groove 10mm back from the front
edges and 20mm in from the back
edges – 20mm will allow clearance
for the back panel rebate.
6 Next, on one side panel, line

the bottom panel up with the
two lines that indicate its position 5 6
and mark the position of the groove.
Then, align the back edges of the
two panels and transfer the lines
indicating the shoulder lines.
7 Using the 6mm cutter, set up

the router table. Place a piece of
masking tape on the table surface,
clear of where the panel will run
through and mark the position of the
cutter on the tape – these will act as
stop lines against the shoulder lines,
which you have transferred from the
edge of the board.
8 If you do not have a router table,

then clamp a wide, thick piece
of timber level with the edge of the
7 8
board to be routed; this will give you

additional support to use a hand-held
router safely to cut the groove in the
end of the panel. You can then use
the same method when cutting the
grooves in the top edges of the side
panels in step 14.
9 Cut a test piece to make sure

the setting is correct. Adjust if
necessary and when correct, carefully
drop the bottom panel down over the
cutter and cut the groove either end.
If using a hand-held router, use the
9
plunge system.

‹
WPP106 P34-40 TV STANDtfJRABSD.indd 35 18/03/2015 13:20
478 328
PROJECT
19 19 19
19
19 402 19
398
479 218 481 290
551
481
Front Elevation Side Elevation

Section
19
51 70
402 478 328

19 19 19 19
422
6
259
20
11
398 290 6
328 265
265
50
501
50
19
6 19
284
478
Plan Section Section
290
19 19

PROJECT
10 Because the door is overlaid
on the carcass of the TV
stand, you need to cut a piece which
measures 70mm wide × 440mm long
so that it extends to finish flush with
the outside faces of the sides. Apply
a piece of veneer edging to the top
edge and rout the grooves for a loose
tongue as before. Later, when glued in
positon in step 21, this will form two
clean tight joints in the front corners.
11 On the underside of the top,

mark the position of the side
panels and ensure to keep the back
10 11
edges flush. Set the outside face of
the side panels 19mm in from the
edges of the top, which will allow for
the chamfer. Next, mark the shoulder
lines for the grooves of the loose
tongues 11mm in from the front edge
and 20mm in from the back edge –
20mm allows for the back rebate to
be created. When you are ready, begin
to cut the grooves using a hand-held
router, as shown in step 5.
12 Line a test piece up with the

position of the side panels and
mark the groove. Cut a test groove on
two pieces, mark the face marks and
12
keep these against the fence. You can
then cut a ply tongue and put the test
pieces in place.
13 Try the bottom panel between

the test pieces. If you have a
gap or the panel does not fit, then
adjust the position of the grooves
accordingly until you have a tight fit.
14 Hold one side panel in

position, with the back edges
flush and mark the positions of the
shoulder lines to the face of the side.
Transfer the shoulder lines to the
second side, then cut the grooves 13
in the top edges of both sides either
on a router table or by supporting
a hand-held router as you did with
the bottom panel in steps 7-9.
15 The next step is to apply

veneer edging to the front
edge of the sides and clean up using
a cabinet scraper and abrasives. Cut
the ply tongues and dry fit the carcass
together to make sure everything fits
correctly. Mark the position of the
back panel to indicate the rebates and
mark the shoulder lines for the top
and the bottom ends of the sides onto
the outside face.
14 15

‹
PROJECT
16 Set up the router and draw

lines for the cutter position on
the fence. Rout out the rebates and
line up the lines on the fence with the
shoulder lines on the panels; this will
allow you to form a stopped rebate.
Apply the veneer edging, as before,
to the back edges.
17 You can then mark the width

and thickness of the chamfer
on the front and side edges of the top.
If you have a suitable chamfer cutter,
remove as much of the chamfer as
possible with a router, otherwise use
16 17
a Jack plane to plane off the chamfer.
Keep checking that the width of the
chamfer does not extend past where
it meets the side panels or the front
of the door.
18 Apply the veneer edge to the

chamfered edge of the sides
first and then the front edge. Next,
in the same order, the square edges
of the top. Clean up as before.
19 You can now begin to put the

carcass together dry to set
up the clamps and protective blocks
ready for gluing. Try the clamping
18 19
positions to make sure everything
pulls up correctly. A piece of board
under the carcass will prevent damage
to the bottom edges and will also help
to keep it square. Glue up the carcass
when ready and check that everything
is square.
20 Cut out the corners where

the rebates meet using a
wide chisel to keep the lines straight.
Cut the back panel to fit and mark
the screw holes out evenly. You can
then drill and countersink, using a
hand drill or pillar drill and glue in
position. Drill a pilot hole to prevent 20 21
the MDF from splitting and screw the
back panel in place.
21 The front edge piece you made

in step 10 can now be glued
and clamped in position. Make sure
the ends are flush with the outside
edges of the carcass.
22 Take the reserved piece of

board from step 1 and cut it
into two equal pieces on a panel or
tablesaw. Mark with face marks and
apply the veneer edge to the bottom
and lead edge of each door, then
clean up as before. 22 23

PROJECT
23 Using a test piece edged with
veneer on one end, measure
and cut to length to leave a 2mm
gap at one end – when fitted there
will be a 1mm gap top and bottom.
A piece of 2mm card can be used to
check the length across the width; this
allows clearance for the door and for
the veneer edge on the top edge. Or
adjust the length using a Jack plane.
When correct, cut the doors to length.
24 Repeat with test pieces to gain

the width of the doors and
leave a 1mm gap in the centre – the 24 25
doors will need to finish 2mm in from
the outside edge of the carcass due to
the style of hinges. When correct, cut
the doors to width. Minor adjustments
can be made with a plane. Once cut
to size, apply the veneer edge to the
outside edges and tops.
25 On one door mark the

position of the hinges. The
edge of the holes will be 3mm back
from the outside edge and 64mm in
from the top and bottom edges. Hold
both doors in line and transfer the
centrelines to the other door.
26
26 Set up a jig on the pillar

drill to drill the four holes.
Specialist cutters are available for
recessing these hinges, or you could
use a cutter with a centre point and a
cutting edge to the correct diameter
for your hinge size.
27 While fixing this part of the

hinge to the door, use a square
to check that the square sections at
the back of the hinges are fixed square
and parallel to the door edges.
28 Mark 65mm in from the top

and bottom of the carcass to
allow for the clearance gap. Then
27
mark 37.5mm in from the front edge,

drill for the screws and fit the second
part of the hinge. Further adjustments
can be made with the adjustment
screws on the hinges to align the
doors in all directions.
29 Cut three strips 70mm wide

and rout or plane a chamfer
on the top edge to match the top.
Veneer edge the chamfer and using a
tablesaw or mitre saw, mitre one end
of a side piece and the corresponding
end on the front piece, line up the
mitres and clamp the side section. 28 29

‹
PROJECT
30 You can then measure and cut

the mitre on the other end
of the front piece, followed by the
second side. Once you have the mitres
fitted, you can cut the side pieces
flush at the back.
31 Drill through the carcass

sections with a hand drill and
countersink, so that the screws come
from behind under the bottom.
32 Releasing one piece at a time,

so that the others are kept in
position, glue and screw each piece 30 31
individually; this makes life easier
for realigning the one you are gluing.
33 The inside is kept to its

natural colour. Mask the
front edges on the top and bottom
and seal with two coats of shellac
sealer, followed by wire and wax.
The shelf rest ferrules can then be
fitted and a shelf cut to fit. You can
then veneer edge all the sides and
seal and wax.
34 The handles are small ring

handles that are fitted just
above the centreline of the door. Drill 32
a hole through each door and attach
the handle. Make the final adjustment
to the hinges to level the doors in
both the vertical and horizontal
direction. Add a small stop at the top
of the cabinet; this will prevent the
doors turning in too far.
35 The final step is to give the

cabinet a clean up with
abrasives. My cabinet was stained and
sprayed with a 30% sheen PU finish to
match the music cabinet I had made
previously. Castors were added to the
bottom as requested. Other finishes
can be used, such as oil or French
33
polish and the choice of colour,
natural or stained, is a personal
preference as are the handles.
Here is the completed TV stand. ■
PHOTOGRAPH BY MEGAN ROSE PHOTOGRAPHY
1. Wax oil is excellent

for achieving a good
looking finish. It is
applied by hand, using
a rag, which is the best
application method and will ensure
you get an even coat. However, it is
very important that you dispose of
used rags carefully as they can be
inflammable.
34 35

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041_WPP_106.indd 41 3/24/15 12:52 PM

COMING NEXT MONTH
A new magazine for woodworkers Hand woodworking
THE TRADITION Hand woodworking

AL JOINE
When starting
out R’S TOOL KIT
you do not need in hand tool joinery, filled with every
Basic joiner's
tools
to go out and tool that someone
the tools you buy all assumed, an
are ever likely aspiring joiner else
your woodwo to use in needed.
rking career – A key tool missing
need a subset you only was a mentor.
of the tradition At that young
tool kit. al joiner’s age, it was my
and I learned father
The saying 'you mostly by observat
get what you After that it was ion.
This is the final issue of

for' is so true pay my secondary
when purchasi woodworking school
woodworking ng teacher, who
tools. Unless me a passion instilled in
a lot of money you have for working with
to fork out, reasonab and the respect wood
priced, good and
quality tools are ly have been making care of tools and I
hard to
come by and
forget chain DIY chips ever since. sawdust and wood
18th and 19th for quality hand stores As
starting out: “The I tell woodworkers
tools. Very few
century English hand tools were of my between where
only differenc
e
purchased new
joiner’s tool kit for the most part, and, you
is time and equipmeare and where I am
from The Wealden were obtained
scouring flea by nt ruined.”
markets,
Museum, West and online auctions car boot sales So what’s in the tool kit?
Woodworking Plans & Projects…

best hope of . These offer the
Sussex finding good t Dovetail and
older tools at quality, tenon saw tMortise gauge
T COLLINS
reasonable prices. tJack and block tMarking knife
I received my plane
first tool kit when tChisels: 10mm tTry Square
about seven-ye mortise chisel
ars-old,, a wooden I was
ven years-old sel and or combina
ombinati
BY MICHAEL
a 20mm bevel tWooden 150mm tion
on square
box edge
tBrace and 6, tBradawl mallet with flat
LET’S MAKE
10 and 20mm head
twist bits
A JOINT tHomemade
PHOTOGRAPHS
bench hook2
When woodwo
rking, there’s
progression from a natural
play, but only
derived from
an understanding if
on personal experien based
and next month will be the first issue

a plane and develop ce. If you have
BEGIN NER
RS’
between eye,
tool and wood,
understanding
a connection
brain, muscle,
you will gain
of how the tool
hand,
an
GUID
DE:
responds in the
limits. The more
sooner you will
hand and also
you use the tool,
know when it’s
its
the
1
Using hand tool acquire the next
given task.
tool to accompl
time to
ish a 2
s nd traddiition
of Woodworking Crafts
methods to mak and i By this experien
al knowledge and
tial process, your
skills will develop
e a draw-bbored Michael T Collin
your tool kit
with your experien
will need to grow
along
and
mortise and teno

non Michael has been s Now that we
ce.
Michael T Collin
n join
nt and on for 40
of projects in
working wood
years. Having
off
run out
assembled, let’s
have our tools
look
one of the fundame at producing
s looks at how
w a selecti
the UK, he moved
small village in to a been used for ntal joints that
has
basic handtools tion
i of the heart of the
Finger draw-bored mortise
thousands of
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can Lakes in Upstate
of traditional joints be used to
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ty Over the years, be found everywhe
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furniture, including
in chair, table
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tools we reach
years to refine,
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that contains
trek to the workshowhen something needs doing
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the width of the
but there are
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English joiners on our th
that
h has taken mathematician . Lay out the mortise Gang the rails
through the years needs. You could d training, he is by location using and scribe the
able to produce have used a small call them ‘ne ‘necessar
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on
a wide variety solve puzzles to try square and rail, a with the try square, the face side, then
When starting of beautiful furniture selection
election of too
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out acquiring . him is a continual king for and edge side using only face
2
available, some tools, it's easy process of solving to mark a knife side
so specialised to be confused
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that you may all faces.
Woodworking Crafts is dedicated to

important to only use them the
h plethora that’s just the to leave extra
not fall for the hem once or he works… way ‘horns’ at the wood
tool I'd be a better more is better ttwice. It's end of the legs;
5
philosophyy – prevents blowout this
craftsman. if I have th
this Web: www.saw Set the mortise
h tool or that dustandwoodchips mortise. Set the
when chopping gauge
com . legs aside for
the width of the chisel. using the
68 www.woodworke >-ħ'8V @sawdus now. I make my
Tenons
tenons half the
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20mm stock will
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5
encouraging, inspiring and showing how Woodworking

Crafts issue 01 69
everyone can be creative, irrespective of theiri Community
The woodland
skill level, time, space or resources. The new
PHOTOGRAPH
way
STATED
COURTESY OF
UNLESS OTHERWISE
WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
BY GARY MARSHALL,
title will still include the most popular features
PHOTOGRAPHS
ABOVE: Dead
standing timber
=
from Woodworking Plans & Projects, but with

LEFT FROM TOP: woodpecker
home
Bristle-moss
(Orthotrichum RIGHT: ‘Messy’
tenellum) woodland or
valuable habitat?
Liverwort
(Lunularia circiata)
It harbours a
very good populati
of reptiles – as on growing list.
evidenced by
Catherine’s carried out last a survey Imagine our increduli
then to hear,
more pages, there will be room for a broader

year. Since then, ty
Wake up
moss (Atrichum after
also embarke
d on we’ve of an hour, that less than a quarter
undulatum) plants – including recording flowering there “could
our expert reckoned
– and this informedtrees and shrubs species here.”
be as many as
50 different
felling of birch some selective He then showed
(Betula pendula details that defined us the
rum cherry (Prunus ), From the beautiful many of them.
and a potentially invasiveserotina) –

sycamore (Acer alien – and to tiny crescent swan’s neck moss
shaped markings Gary Marshall
smell the mo
pseudoplatanus) near microsco on a
pic liverwort Gary has had
as well as some
hazel (Carya
, circiata) and (Lunular ia a life-long interest
coppicing. In spp.) Catherine’s moss, woodlands and in
rarer but very to the the countrysi
range of woodworking ‘crafts’, including

this way, new attractive slender trained in countrysi de. He
have been opened glades
ss
moss (Orthotr bristle- de management
up, benefittin ichum and subseque
butterflies and
basking reptiles
g One other surprisintenellum). ntly ran a company
working with
the common
is looking better
– and out of the survey g thing that came the local County
WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
in places was that some Councils and

than it has done and liverwort mosses Unitary Authority
for years. s can their Countrys and
their smell! Well, be recognised by ide and Rights
of Way
New species I’m used to noticing Teams, as well
as a wide range
Timber comes of
During our survey moss
the spicy scent
from new leaves conservation of
from trees, trees work, just one
downy birch
or of the
organisations,
Woodland Trust. including
ts, in hedges and grow in

inhaling the thin
woods, fores
species of moss
supposedly retired, Although
COURTESY OF
oily liquid from

ests,
was identified blisters in noble
– Catherine’ss bark that whiffs e fir , Gary still keeps
moss (Atrichum
upcycling, DIY, restoration, and ‘green’ commonland hand in, writing his
– but there’s more undulatum)
pictured and – but I never
to me of grapefru
it plan – and article!
the odd managem
ent
to woods than of liverwort was one type thought to sniff
a moss – working as
PHOTOGRAPH
before. When
the eye meets
found. So we a volunteer on
eye– as Gary
ary MMarsshall
Ma
pleased when
an expert in bryophit
were revelation – it
I did, I had an
olfactory
woodland work,
rights of way
and
Community sh
hallll knows....
s
– that’s mosses
and
and me – offered liverworts to you
es was
essence of a damp like the distilled
woodland charity
as a trustee of
a
to carry out a with a small touch English woodland, and as a networke
in the local rural r
I
t amazes me just
and uninform
how unobserv
ed we
be. I spend much can sometimes
and around woods, of my time in
ant throated dawn chorus.
day, I had my
been peering
eyes opened
We expected
a dozen
Yet, the other Conical hedges at Versailles
as if I’d
or
him to find maybe
so species to
, France
add to our
survey.
half
antiseptic, which of astringent
refreshing g.
So, if you’re ever
Sussex and see
was really quite
out in deepest excellent indicator

scene.
s of air quality
woodworking, more how-to step-by-step

managing and walking, working, down a tube strange people they can easily –
WWW.
generally loving Some voluntee all my life. scratching and lose their often
rs habitats by well sensitive
Many people them. involved in conservaand I have been sniffing at old meaning tidying
EWORLD.COM
know woodland
COURTESY OF
banks, don’t
production, wildlifea bit about timber In fashiononly marvellin be alarmed, we’re ‘messy’ woodlan of
Every spring, and habitats. small triangle tion work on
of local common a
The 17th-cen g at one of the area of our common
d areas. One
such Community
we all look forward for a couple of land wonders
tury wasofseen many is pictured and
the unstoppable years. natureas the contains fallen,
to enhance the biodiversOur aim is to The word ‘topiary’ thatgolden
we all too storm damaged
WILDABOUTTH
age often
PHOTOGRAPH
pulse of nature’s overlookalso . There’s

came more of topiary. stools and much hazel
unfurling and by selective, careful ity on the land of green sculpture to describe
to woods
blossoming – meets the , soon a wider
than variety soggy fallen timber
scuffle of rodents from the and planned a number ofmatter. eye used
– or themore nose live and dead – by –
and the drummin management gardenSofeatures loosely
for that
to describemoss a small stream.
woodpeckers, g of work informed clipping and woodlan that
d manager expert urged Our
through wildlife surveys. by owners
shaping also relysonandthe closehabitats us to treat these
carpeting of bluebells to the climactic of grassland and
The common
is a mix beautifully ornate and of landown
plants. These
ers, large
included with the “respect
small, take and
box hedges swirling : parterres
guides, increased community features,

and the full deciduous woodlan clippednote! and, to leave them they deserve”
24 www.woodworke including some d, mirrored patterns
or geometric aroundsupport in place since
ersinstitute.com old wet woodlan Gary and a friend lavish Indicat designs, typically in several interestin they
d.
common land
working at clearing Italian gardens;
the in Britain
popular orsmazesof air and quality used in
labyrinths, particula liverwort species. Without
g moss and
Rememb and
er theintroduc rly
we might have such advice,
Conquest, but humble ed after
mossthe been
PHOTOGRAPH
liverwort andNorman
public gardens;
still found– as these
in a great
can also this area, coppicin tempted to clear
and number
be of private g such stools.
Stuart time, which knot gardens, popular in now,
and though
– we will leave them
Not
the Tudor and
planted in crisscroswere formed from different be.
COURTESY OF
coloured box
ribbons of hedges sing patterns, so it appeared
had been tied that the Woodworking
The fashion of up Crafts issue 01
topiary, however in knots. 25
and a broader range of skill levels.

the mania for , was to be short-live
ROMAS_PHOTO
the Landscap d as
topiary gardens e style meant
were ripped up that many formal
Luckily, topiary for use as open
didn’t parkland.
gardens still continue entirely fade way, as small
cottage
/SHUTTERSTOC
It was down to d to use the art.
the revival of
architecture in the ‘Jacobeth
England that an’ taste in
the public eye. brought topiary
ERSTOCK.COM
Soon, mature back into
K.COM
gardens as ‘Mon example
Plaisir’ at Elvaston s of topiary in such
opened to the Castle, Derbyshi
public in the
The Art of
This brought 1850s, creating re
KIRYCH/SHUTT
back architect a sensation.
then a further ural topiary to
25 years later, England and
then came to sculptural topiary.
mix with roses Topiary
– classic statemen and mixed herbaceo
ts us borders
COURTESY OF0
creating an ‘old-fashof the British Arts & Crafts
Topiaarryy ioned garden’ revival

or a ‘Dutch garden’.–
Popular to work
PHOTOGRAPH
The plants used
to create ‘living
with a dense sculptures’ are
Our lucky Woodworking Plans & Projects

foliage.
age. They would evergree
vergreenns,
s,
PHO
with small leaves be predominately
No-one would or needles and
have fast compact ‘woody’,
particularly think
or columnar
growth and/
in topiary include: habits. Common species
‘hedge’, but as too much into cultivars of Europea to work on
Hand woodworking the simplest form the common sempervirens),
arborvitae (Thuja n boxwood (Buxus
the beginning of ‘topiary’, the nobilis), holly species), bay

hedge is only
(Ilex laurel (Laurus
yew (Taxus baccata)spp.), myrtle (Eugenia or
of a long-pract Myrtus spp.),
ised art form Traditionally, , and privet (Ligustrum species).
topiary depends
W hen we think of precision

trees, plants and -clipped and
shrubs, our thoughts shaped
hand but a popular
in the form of helping hand
on patience and
a steady
shaped wire cages. in modern topiary comes
subscribers will be the first to discover the

probably introducing topiary
would perhaps used These cages guide
art form of bonsai, go straight to the popular the Elder – author to Roman gardens. The nephew by those less
practised, to shears,
Japanese their desired
containers. When, shaping miniature trees grown Younger (62–100A of Pliny’s Natural History of Pliny shape. Small-lea create and hold
craft to a much in fact, the term
‘topiary’ covers
in
figures’ of animals,D), wrote letters describin
– Pliny the a cage and give ved ivy
the look of topiary can be Hand woodw
used to cover orking
larger scale. Deriving the inscriptions, cyphers g the ‘elaborat in a few months.
used for ‘ornamen e
from the Latin clipped greens, and obelisks Design
STATED
tal landscape in
topiary is a horticult gardener’, being word However, many Cnaeus Matius Calvinus’ Tuscan in
ural practice topiarius, writers think villa. With its precision
plants into a to train live perennia or Jewish slaves that Egyptian trimmed hedges,
UNLESS OTHERWISE
clearly were the first , Syrian cuts, one might
described as ‘living defined shapes. Topiary l to the Romans. people to introduc Greek think topiary clean lines and
perfect
sculpture’. is often e the art to design – a is set in its ways
The ‘hedge’ – The fall of the huge subject when it comes
the most basic Roman Empire topiary is ever in the craft. However
evolving to more
new magazine. If you also want to join us on

used to create form of topiary hidden away, in , design in
boundaries, walls – is but still very much Italy left topiary to be colourful designs. intricate shapes,
the recording or screens their cloisters alive with the monks words and
JAKE HOBSON,
of topiary’s Europea but since of their monaste in With the average
Roman times n origins – in wealthy families ries. During the garden, topiary
– topiary has Ancient would pay to Renaissance, and emphasise can be used to
proved itself always been pushed as elaborately have their villa elements, such enhance
to be and has set out as those garden junctions, entrance as lawns, pools,
Romans practice an art form. Not only did the inspiration from monks, who took paths,
techniques such ways, vistas and garden ‘rooms’, path
COURTESY OF
topiary, but so ancient writing of the their
and the Persian dido the ancient ideas spread Ancients. These as clipped hedging, using
Empire. Egyptians to France by 1520. Renaissance topiary, or a change formal or freeform
It was Cnaeus taken with the The French were of level in topiary.
Matius Calvinus use of hedges particularly often paired up These features
Natural History who was credited were then used to give formal or lined up to are
structure, which create symmetr
PHOTOGRAPHS
and the epigram by Pliny’s at rhythm. Formal
writer Martial, The formal hedgingKing Louis the XIV’s Palace hedging may
be clipped with
y and visual
who first at Versailles soon of Versaille niches and alcoves,
became popular s. buttresses,
our next adventure, issue 1 will be on sale

across Europe,
34 to Denmark, make more intricateor even formed into a colonnad
www.woodworke German, Russia e to
rsinstitute.com and Sweden. A brilliant, natural designs.
the effect of topiary element that can be used TOP: Château
is sunshine. In to enhance de Hautefort,
bright sunlight, Dordogne, France a 17th-c
17th-century
château in the
1
BY JOHN BULLAR
shadows ABOVE: 36-!8@1-?'&>-;,

2 ,'8#!$'3<9#38&'8
6£!2ধ2+
3
PHOTOGRAPHS
Woodworking
rk Crafts issue
01 35
on 14 May, 2015. Don’t forget to leave your A row of

feedback on the Woodworkers Institute! DOVETAILS
John Bullar show
s you how to make
strong dovetails a row of 4
on the corner
www.woodworkersinstitute.com H ere is a straightfo

make a row of
on the corner
boards. The idea
and techniqu
and along the
when dovetaili
rward way to
strong dovetails
between two
is to keep the
es to a basic minimum
way
about what mattersdispel a few myths
tools
and what doesn’t

–
complete the
between boards
regia) and pine
walnut is only
between board
through dovetails
the wood and
(Pinus spp.).
about 10mm
s
. A plane to prepare
a square to check
kit. The joint it,
is made
of walnut (Juglans
The
centred on the
not importan
edge. Thicknes
t provided each
is an even thickness
across the width.
ses are
board
and not cupped
3
Marking should
It avoids using
ers
Marking the shoulder
chisel is unconve
can often be awkward

errors. Simply
lines with a
ntional but simple.
a marking gauge,
and introduc
lay the chisel
which
e
of the thicker
have sockets
the end sockets
board, which
to fit the tails.
will
is going to
Because
this second board reach the edges,
across the edges
needs to be marked
5
2
ng. This is not pine is softwood thick and the face of the flat across as well as the
exhibition joint, a showy , so both chop Use a square thicker board faces.
with a chisel, easily to check the ends
looks fine for
but it fits well
and not requiring
a fretsaw of the boards angle. Hold the
thinner board
at an
Sawing tails
5
boxes or the like to are at right angles on end and slide vertically
thin-sided drawers. or the backs of remove waste. to their edges
and faces. This its face across With the shoulder
doesn’t of the chisel. the tip lines
1
affect the fit of Most it is time to start marked,
Plane both boards the
here will produce joint but an error sure your fingers importantly, make cutting the tails.
Tools as each other to the same width a crooked box up the edges
and thumb are Pinch the board
between finger
and make sure drawer. I use or of the well thumb to guide and
A knife, a small
saw and a couple edges are at right their for this method
a conventional
try square you cannot accidentaupright board so strokes of the
the first few small
chisels – these of angles to the with a wooden lly slice them saw.
are For edge planing, faces. with the chisel.
will need to mark the basic tools you pinch the plane and steel blade, stock
6
between finger but metal adjustab
out and cut a and thumb, using front types are good. le
4
row of fingernail as a You Tilt the blade
guide to keep the plastic set square, can even use a Repeat the shoulder one in seven
to an angle of
about
the plane or the corner line marking, – in other words,
10 www.woodworke sheet of paper of a this time laying
the chisel on about 85% of
rsinstitute.com at a pinch. thinner board, a right
which is going
the angle is not importanangle. The exact
the tails cut on to have shape of each t because the
it, and mark the tail will be copied
faces the matching
half of the joint. onto
³ 6
Woodworking
Crafts issue 01 11
Don’t miss out on

your copy next month!
WPP106 P42-43 NEXT ISSUE/LAUNCH SPREADtf.indd 42 27/03/2015 09:34

More step-by-step guides, more features, more tech,
more pages – in fact, more of everything you like!
Issue 1 June 2015
HAND & POWER WOODWORKING OTURNING ORESTORATION ODIY
Make a
row of
dovetails SMALL SPACE
WOODWORKING
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OPPING BOARDS CHOOSING ROUTER CUTTERS
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MAGAZINE
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A GMC PUBLICATIONS
N
A
1 O Y
E M A
Cover subject to change
U
S 14
IS
WPP106 P42-43 NEXT ISSUE/LAUNCH SPREADtf.indd 43 27/03/2015 09:34
4
PROJECT
Letter boxes
PLANS
YOU
& paper rack
Simon Rodway shows you how to make two
bespoke letter box designs and a paper rack
I
t’s one of those appealing images
Paper rack of the US: the white clapboard
Roof 1 @ 530 × 180 × 9mm house, lawn in front and small butt
Sides 2 @ 750 × 118 × 9mm essential differences from our lives
Front 1 @ 500 × 150 × 9mm like the post box on a stand down
Front 1 @ 500 × 200 × 9mm by the road. In the UK, most of us
have a letterbox in the front door, but
ut
Back 1 @ 750 × 482 × 9mm
for those situations where that’s not
possible, I’ve come up with a couple
Simple letter box of different ideas for the standalone
Roof 1 @ 350 × 143 × 9mm variety and a paper rack to go with
Sides 2 @ 413 × 115 × 9mm them.
Front 1 @ 375 × 312 × 9mm
Bottom 1 @ 312 × 115 × 9mm Simple letter box
I’ve tried to hit both ends of the
Back 1 @ 404 × 312 × 9mm
spectrum with the look of my letter of these – most of the construction
boxes, so you’ll probably want is simply pinned and glued using a
Greek letter box something in between, but like all decent waterproof glue. However,
Roof 2 @ 211 × 186 × 12mm these projects, it gives you something as an option, I’ve included battens
Front 1 @ 433 × 317 × 12mm to work on, or away from. At its on the back and sides at the bottom
Sides 2 @ 328 × 116 × 12mm simplest, you need a weatherproof – not shown in the exploded drawing
Bottom 1 @ 328 × 175 × 12mm and reasonably secure box, from – for the odd book, etc. that might get
which you can retrieve your post delivered.
Bottom 1 @ 334 × 180 × 12mm
at your convenience. I’ve used 9mm Cut out all the pieces and add just
Back 1 @ 433 × 293 × 12mm
exterior grade plywood for the enough to the back edge of the roof
construction of this and also the piece to plane a chamfer on it after
Main components only. Decorative newspaper rack and because of the gluing together, although this isn’t
features on Greek box are not relative low weight of its intended essential. Cut the door out from the
included, nor are the battens. contents – it’s probably not possible front piece and also the letter slot
to post anything really heavy in one before gluing up. Because it’s made
350
143
220
72°
9
45
45
413 404
375 369
50 212 50
9 250 9
312
330 115 115

Front Elevation Side Elevation Section
Scale 1 to 8 Scale 1 to 8 Scale 1 to 8
WPP106 P44-45 PLANS FOR YOUtfABSDJR.indd 44 24/03/2015 09:55

ILLUSTRATIONS BY SIMON RODWAY
PROJECT
211
Ø25 186
34° 317
12
12 48 221 48 40 48 128
12
9 190
433
317 12 116
255 28 264
230
328 175
12
334 12
180
Front Elevation Side Elevation
Scale 1 to 8 Scale 1 to 8
of 9mm ply, the hinged edge of the Paper rack

door will need reinforcing with an For larger printed material, you need
additional vertical strip of ply or something a bit bigger and this is
timber, both on the door and on where the paper rack comes in: the
the fixed edge. Once it’s all glued construction is even simpler than the
together and a small lock fitted, with first letter box. Once the basic shapes
the door open, you should be able are cut out, all you need to do is
to fix the box to a suitable wall by notch out the sides to take the 9mm
screwing through the back panel. shelf fronts. Like its companions, this
isn’t an all-weather storage unit, but
Greek letter box even in a semi-sheltered location,
If the strictly practical isn’t quite driving rain could ruin the Sunday
enough for you, I’ve included an papers pretty quickly, so you need a
alternative design, which borrows good overhang on the roof and fairly
very loosely from Greek or Roman deep fronts to the shelves. Again, use
architecture. The construction is pins and waterproof glue to assemble
basically the same, using pins and and add the battens along the inside
waterproof glue, although this box edges of the shelves to prevent the
is a bit heavier all round as it’s made occasional catalogue from knocking
from 12mm ply. Cut the pieces out the bottom out. Fixing is again just a
in the same way: the roof is angled at matter of drilling through the back:
34° and the only slightly tricky part a pair just below the roof at the
of the construction is chamfering the top and another two just below the
edges of the roof pieces where they bottom shelf should do the job. ■
meet at the ridge. The back fits inside
530
the sides, roof and bottom, so it’s
24mm narrower than the front
and you will need to include
battens along the joint between
the bottom and the sides. The 118
bottom or base is just a couple off

12mm pieces glued and screwed 100 150 500
together: the columns are pieces of o
750 750
dowel, but this is really something g 482 711
9 9
you can use your imagination on 9 150
and whatever you have to hand.
Just make sure you cut the letter
slot at a minimum 220mm wide
200
and about 45mm high – on eitherr
box. I have shown both boxes
painted and obviously you can 25
pick details out in different colours r
rs Section Front Elevation Side Elevation
Scale 1 to 12 Scale 1 to 12 Scale 1 to 12
on the ‘Greek’ box if you want.
WPP106 P44-45 PLANS FOR YOUtfABSDJR.indd 45 24/03/2015 09:55

046_WPP_106.indd 46 3/24/15 12:53 PM
´s
Craftsman
KIT & TOOLS

corner
60 years
of Trend
To celebrate Trend’s 60th anniversary, we spoke to
founder Jim Phillips who gave us the lowdown A selection of old Trend cutter
catalogues
T
rend has a proud tradition the German router manufacturer Elu
in routing dating back to and several other tooling suppliers had been sold a tool which wasn’t fit
1955, when founder and there. In Jim’s mind, the UK market for purpose, or, had a very expensive
avid woodworker Jim Phillips first needed better sources for power tool bit of kit which sat idle for most of
saw the opportunity to give British supplies and he knew where to get its working life. As a roving trouble-
woodworkers a helping hand and the good stuff. It seemed a golden shooter, I was quickly able to build
he quite literally started a Trend that opportunity and a bold vision for a up a picture of common problems
has subsequently seen generations of new company. “Jim obtained samples, and started looking at other power
tradespeople take the plunge into the filled a van and began to tour factories tools and accessories which could
world of routing. Now in his 90s, the and job sites around the UK. He improve efficiency.”
day-to-day running of the business demonstrated Elu’s advanced new That ethos of being a friendly
is in the hands of his employees, router – the first ever with plunging advisor rather than an aggressive
although Jim is always on hand to capability – as well as jigsaws and salesman is a philosophy instilled
share his experience. drills,” Luke Hulley, Trend’s head of in all Trend staff, which continues
marketing explains. to underpin the company today.
The beginning Within two years, customer demand
Jim tells us: “From a very early for jigsaw blades and router bits alone 60 years on
age I had always been passionate enabled Jim to rent a permanent “After 60 years, we think we have
about woodworking, forever facility for his new enterprise. Trend just about every option covered, but
making household items for myself had now gained a foothold in the there will always be someone out
and decided that perhaps I could UK woodworking industry and Jim there who needs something special
extend my enthusiasm to local would continue to make strides in for a particular cutting task and our
joinery companies, engineers and the woodworking market – both in-house team of technicians will
tradespeople.” At this time, Jim as a product supplier and routing make it happen,” says Jim.
happened to have a relationship with innovator. In the half century since Many of Trend’s one-off products
those early days with Elu, have gone into mainstream
Trend has established production and the showroom is an
itself as an industry Aladdin’s cave of problem solving
leader of router supplies jigs, cutters, blades, clamps, drills
in the UK. power tools and tables. For 2015,
Trend will see a whole new batch of
Ethos innovative products launched into the
Jim tells us: “For me, marketplace, including the Diamond
the key was responding Cross range of sharpening stones and
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF TREND
quickly to anyone who mini template profiler router cutters.

was in trouble. Builders, Like his beloved router, Jim has
joinery shops and made the sort of deep and long lasting
engineering businesses impression on the power tool market
were all crying out for that very few could ever hope to
someone to consult emulate and has shown that for once,
when they ran into not all Trends have to come and go!
obstacles, or their
existing equipment
A photo from 1963, showing a stand at a woodworking simply wasn’t up to the
event, demonstrating the new Elu router job. Quite often they
www.woodworkersinstitute.com WPP ISSUE 106 47 ›

WPP106 P47-49 CRAFTSMANS CORNERtfJRABSD.indd 47 24/03/2015 10:05
´s
Craftsman
KIT & TOOLS
corner
Warco
planer
thicknesser
The Editor gives this chunky
looking planer/thicknesser a
workout to see if it is on the
straight and level
This simple knife edge scale was spot on
accurate, but the scale can be adjusted
up or down
THE NUMBERS
Planing width: 250mm
Thicknesser width: 250mm
Thicknesser height: 180mm The thicknesser section has an
Cutterblock diameter: 75mm emergency off button. The extraction
Planer table: 250 x 1,050mm hood has a simple clip to hold it in place
Thicknesser table: 250 x 600mm
T
Fence tilt: 0-45° his machine looks and feels very smaller steadying column, all very
Extraction pipe diameter: 100mm solid indeed, although it wasn’t rigid and rock solid.
Cutting depth: 2.5mm difficult to manoeuvre it into
No load speed: 4,000rpm position in the workshop. It comes Features
Thicknesser feed speed: 8m/min with adjustable screw-in rubber feet to Although it looks pretty much like
Motor single phase: 1.5kw (1,500W) settle it firmly and lifting loops if you any other standard imported iteration
Weight: 148kg need to fit them for craning although of a planer thicknesser, it has several
Direct sale price: £695 (inc VAT) it isn’t heavy enough really to warrant important points of note. The rigid,
that. Initial impressions are of a good smooth action thicknesser bed is
WHERE TO BUY build standard, the casing is neat and one. The surfacing tables are very flat
www.warco.co.uk tidy and the tables are finely ground ground with sound reduction slots.
cast iron. The thicknesser bed hasn’t The fence extrusion is easy to slide
been skimped on – this too is cast across the cutterblock, is substantial
iron on a single big column with a in size and can be set correctly at 90°

This machine has 'gull wing’ tables that have to be raised and
lowered in the correct order – there are no safety latches in the It is a compact machine with standard length tables, which are
up position ground very flat and true
or any angle in between. experience, I would recommend but it didn’t seem to materially affect
The bridge guard looks to be investing in a good setting jig so the squareness of the planed timber.
standard but unlike many others, you can quickly set the three knives Changeover to thicknessing entails
it can be raised to any height and otherwise a lot of time is wasted removing the fence completely, which
a knob can be used to make the trying to get this right. The height is a slight inconvenience – normally
guard sit level. It might not seem pointer for thicknessing is actually a fence can be slid back out of the
terribly exciting to be able to raise accurately set although the scale way but not here. Then the two cam
it quickly to any height without any can be adjusted if necessary. levers are turned and withdrawn to
restriction, but I think readers should This machine has a 1,500W motor, lift the gull wing tables out of the way.
be aware that the Health & Safety which doesn’t sound a lot but it A note of warning: while the tables
Executive are quite definite about seems to cope very well. There is are still down and the fence removed
the correct way to plane overhand. the standard rubber booted on and the machine is still live with the
Their recommendation is that timber off buttons at the overhand feed end cutterblock exposed. Only when
should always be under the guard, and a resettable emergency off button the tables are lifted do the
rather than beside the guard against at the thicknessing feed end, plus the microswitches isolate the motor.
the fence, unless the section being drive engagement lever with a slightly The extraction hood swings over
machined is wide and narrow in confusing diagram, which I would and clips easily in position, extraction
thickness. Otherwise the cutterblock suggest is best ignored. is as good as your extractor setup.
is exposed for part of its length You may be advised to consider
and accident history shows this to Verdict an upgrade if you don’t already
be a definite causal factor. Many This is a solid, no frills competent have chippings extraction. Height
woodworkers do this operation using machine. The base seems large for capacity through the thicknesser is
the wrong method according to the the relatively small tables, longer is good at 180mm. The noise level of
HSE, so the Warco definitely scores better for straightening, but I have no the machine both free running and
here where some planers cannot have complaints about the flatness or finish under load was commendably quiet
their guard raised high enough for on the wood. Investigation showed by planer standards, no doubt the
some workpieces! a slight step or ‘snipe’ at the outfeed noise reduction slots helped here.
The three knife block uses the end of the workpiece caused by the Conveniently it comes with just a 13-
normal spring supports to bring the cutters being set a fraction too high, amp plug, no hard wiring required!
blades up to height and five bolts to but this was easy to correct. The fence Overall, Warco have a winner here –
fix each one in position. No height extrusion isn’t completely flat across it is perfect for the smaller workshop
setting aides are provided and from its height, which is a disappointment, operation. ■
The thicknesser table sits on a column, All the controls are conventionally The ‘pull over’ when the block was
which is commendably rigid and the up placed; the thicknessing drive diagram turned by hand was consistent but a
and down action is quick and smooth is a little confusing and unnecessary little too high
www.woodworkersinstitute.com WPP ISSUE 106 49

Prices correct at
time of printing and
Hot Stuff
KIT & TOOLS
inclusive of 20% VAT.

Photographs and
information courtesy of
the manufacturers
Take a look at the tools, gadgets and gizmos that

we think you will enjoy using in your workshop
Axminster Trade Bitz

The Axminster Trade Bitz range fulfils the need for a Hilti DX 2 powder-actuated
well-made accessory that will take everything the trade
demands. These bits are made from S2 steel with accurately
fastening tool
forged tips for fit and strength and finished in either wear- Hilti’s new powder-
resistant TiN or sandblasted. Most cordless drills and actuated fastening tool brings high
screwdrivers have a keyless chuck and some only have productivity, versatility and the cordless benefits
a hex fitting. The range of hex shank bits and holders is of direct fastening at a low entry cost.
constantly increasing. The shanks of the Axminster Trade Whether fastening to concrete or steel, the
Bitz holders, long screwdriver bits and torsion screwdriver DX 2 drives a wide range of nails with speed and
bits are universal. The shanks have a double groove and ease and has been designed for maximum productivity,
special machining makes providing more than 1,000 fixings per day.
them compatible with all Compact, versatile and easy-to-use, it covers a wide
makes of 6mm hex quick- variety of direct-fastening jobs, including attaching kicker
change and magnetic bit plates to concrete; fixing sill plates; fastening wall ties
holders. to steel or concrete; fastening electrical cable holders
Various sets are to concrete; attaching mesh to concrete and fastening
available: an 11-piece wood to concrete and steel. It has a compact
set and a 28-piece design and features a well-designed grip.
set and there is
CONTACT: Hilti
£199
also a very useful
28-piece set, TEL: 0800 886 100
WEB: www.hilti.co.uk
which features
26 colour-coded bits.
CONTACT: Axminster Trade Bitz

Record Power acquires CamVac
£18.96 TEL: 03332 406 406 extraction machines
WEB: www.axminster.co.uk
and accessories
Until late 2014, the
Clarke inverter generators From range of CamVac
Machine Mart has two new inverter generators, £275.98 products were
which are ideal for providing a ready source of manufactured
electrical power in the workshop. They are each in Fakenham,
housed in a stylish case, which helps to reduce noise levels. Norfolk and sold
The IG1000 model has a 1,000W output at 230V AC via a throughout the
13Amp 3-pin socket and a four-stroke petrol engine with an UK for many years.
‘Eco Throttle’ engine system and weighs 15kg. In October 2014,
The IG2200 is a powerful, portable generator that the CamVac brand
features inverter technology to provide pure, stable and full range of machines and accessories was acquired
power for computers and other sensitive equipment. by Record Power and the company are delighted to be
With a maximum output of 2.2kW and a continuing to manufacture in the UK at their Derbyshire-
continuous output of 2.0kW it is based engineering facilities.
suitable for trade and leisure use Record Power will continue to provide all existing
and is perfect for use on site, CamVac users with the same high-quality products and
on market stalls, for camping all current CamVac machines and accessories will remain
and caravanning trips, in production using the same tooling and manufacturing
boating and much more. techniques that have historically made them so successful.
CONTACT: Machine Mart CONTACT: Record Power

TEL: 01159 565 555 TEL: 01246 571 020
WEB: www.machinemart.co.uk WEB: www.recordpower.co.uk
50 WPP ISSUE106 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WPP106 P50 HOT STUFFtfABJRSD.indd 50 18/03/2015 13:34

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14-508 WP subs ad 2015.indd 51 3/27/15 3:03 PM

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052_WPP_106.indd 52 3/25/15 9:51 AM

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN CORFIELD
PROJECT
Flexible lid cold frame
John Corfield shows us his ingenious
design for the ultimate cold frame that
won’t get blown away in a high wind!
Things you will need
• Bandsaw
W
hen my brother-in-law basic as I like, but the lids needed • Saw
asked me if I could make to avoid being lifted by winds and, • Polycarbonate sheets –
him a bespoke cold frame, especially when propped open, to 16mm thick
I initially thought I could literally avoid being blown over backwards • Router table
knock one up for him in no time. and even blown completely off! He
• Adhesive
However, he went on to explain that wanted to be able to open the lids
• Pillar drill
he had quite a high specification in either way – front edge up or rear
terms of flexibility and robustness that edge up – and to be able to prop • Vice
he couldn’t get from the normal high them at several heights. They also • Vertical sander
street shop or garden centre. It turns had to be completely and easily • 9mm dowel
out that the prevailing winds give removeable and use no glass too. • Straightedge
his garden a hard time both through Lastly, being a pensioner, the cost • Screw
strength and directional changes – he needed to be as low as possible and • Spring clips
lives adjacent to a large open space, certainly less than £50. At this point • Lathe
which is atop a large and steep open I realised this would be a classic 80% • Brass screws
incline. The actual box could be as planning and 20% doing project.

WPP106 P53-57 COLD FRAMEtfJRABSD.indd 53 18/03/2015 13:35
Plan of frame box Top frame from above Bottom frame from below
60 50 250 50 180 50 250 50 60 530 115 125 50 125 115
50 50
30
50 210
Ø10 Anchor eye details
22
Scale 1 to 4
730
200
22 470
50 430 50
400 650 50 430 50
30
680 725
700
600
30 20 Strut lengths
15
50
1000 530 530

16 25 22
36
14 22
Ø10
65 65
21 50
21 65 18
44 16
18
420 420
400
315 Ø25 R4.5
300
Ø9 12 90
Pin, strut end and &
Elevation of frame box Section through frame box
frame details 1 : 4
Scale 1 to 12 Scale 1 to 12
1 Make up a simple box using

robust 18mm timber. For the box,
you’ll need a total of 14 lengths, plus
corner posts and two midway braces.
Using a bandsaw, mitre the board
ends to make the corners look tidy.
2 Next, saw the 18 × 103mm

timber in half to produce 18 ×
50mm, then cut to the lengths needed
for the two lids.
3 Overlay the pieces onto the box to

confirm you have the right lengths
and join them using bridle joints.
1 2
Rebate the strips to provide a good
seat for the polycarbonate sheets and
plan the corner joints accordingly.
4 Before you cut the corners, rebate

the pieces for the underside
of the two lids. The polycarbonate
should be 16mm thick. Cut 6mm
depths for the bridle joints, so it will
be a 6mm rebate for the underside
frame pieces, then do a 10mm rebate
on the topside frame pieces. You only
need to rebate six of the underside
lengths as the polycarbonate should
extend over the lower edge of the
frame to ensure good water run-off. 3 4

PROJECT
5 Having cut the rebates and
reduced the thickness of the
lower bottom pieces, overlap them
on the box to be sure of how you will
make the corner joints. The upper
piece of the frame bottom will be
full width, while the lower piece sits
between the side pieces.
6 Make the bridle joints on the

bandsaw, complete the initial cuts
and remove the waste. As the sections
are relatively thin, simply move the
timber in and out against the blade;
this will allow you to make repeated 5 6
cuts and remove the waste.
7 Here you can see the upper right

and lower left corner joints of
the frame bottoms. The joints for one
lid are assembled and the two pieces
that will make up the same joints for
the other lid are laid on them. Care
needs to be taken with this step –
you can see here how the rebate for
the polycarbonate has affected the
symmetry of the bridle joints.
8 Here you can see the two lids

with the polycarbonate sheets
in place. The lids are opposite ways 7 8
round to show the lower edge on
the left with the polycarbonate sheet
correctly ‘over-running’ the frame and
the upper edge on the right with the
sheet fully fitted within the rebate. It
is important to check that everything
is fitting correctly before dissembling
the frames and gluing together the
corner joints.
9 Now comes the task of making

the 40 ‘anchor eyes’ for the
cold frame, as I’ve called them here.
Fortunately, I was able to go into mass
production once I’d completed a few
trials. Here are the first few 30mm 9
long pieces cut from the lengths of
22mm square timber. The first is
marked ready for drilling and to have
its end rounded.
10 The next step is to set up a

jig on the pillar drill and once
you get the hole correct, you can
repeat the operation easily. Drilling
halfway through and turning the
block over to then complete the hole
from the other side reduces surface
breakout from the emerging drill.
The use of a well-engineered vice is
a distinct help making location easy,
so use one if you can. 10

PROJECT
11 Round the ends of the ‘anchor

eyes’; this will help to ensure
clearance and also give a better
appearance. The easiest way is to use
a vertical sander. I achieved a very
good, quick result. Once you’ve made
three eyes, check they thread onto
9mm dowel easily. You are now ready
for a trial assembly on the box and lid.
12 Offering up the set of three

eyes gave me the confidence
it was progressing well and I could
indeed go into mass production.
Once in ‘mass production’ they are 11 12
completed surprisingly quickly.
13 Using a length of 9mm dowel

and a straightedge to guide
and ensure good alignment, mark
the positions for the two eyes on the
underside of the frame. Glue and
screw these into position.
14 Ensure that the frames are

interchangeable, using one
long dowel rod to align all the
‘eyes’ and to allow you to mark the
positions for the ‘eyes’ that will be
fixed onto the box. Swap the frames
and repeat this to confirm that all 13 14
is well. This was the point at which
the accuracy you need to ensure
really comes home. I had to relax
the tightness of gaps a little to take
account of inevitable variations. At
this point, I found the lids would
not close fully due to a small amount
of interference, but the trusty old
electric plane removed just the 2mm
necessary so the lids then closed
perfectly.
15 You need to make the hinge

and strut pins before adding
the ‘eyes’ for the struts. The 9mm
dowel pins need heads to make them 15
comfortable for both inserting and
removing. An old broom handle will
do nicely. Cut into two lengths, then
drill, cut and glue onto each dowel.
16 Having cut eight heads and

lengths of 9mm dowel,
glue each pair together and leave
overnight. The next day, shape using
the lathe and round the pin on the
vertical sander.
17 In this photo, you can see

how the pins are intended to
be used for the hinges and, of course,
for the struts. 16

PROJECT
18 All that’s needed now are the
struts themselves. It’s a good
idea to make three lengths, although
the longest might interfere with the
box sides due to its resulting angle.
The strut eyes for the back of the box
need to go on the inside and those for
the front of the box on the outside;
this will make them easier to access.
The struts will be stored on the sides
of the box using spring clips, so use
the lathe to turn the required collars.
19 Make the collars just less than

the size of the clips and round
the corners a little to make them
17
more comfortable to use. Using the

exact same technique as for drilling
the ‘eyes’, use the pillar drill and vice.
In this application the 9mm dowel
should be a loose fit in the 10mm
hole; this will ensure that fitting and
removing the struts will be easy.
20 Here is the first strut in action.

Remove two pins to release
the lid and use the same two pins to
install the strut – easy!
21 Use brass screws to secure

the spring clips and place a
thick plastic washer under the clip to
18
stop the screw from pulling the clip

base down flat against the wood –
otherwise the spring clip closes up as
the screw is tightened and it becomes
very difficult to push a strut into the
clip. Once assembled, your cold frame
is complete! ■
1. Make sure all the

components are treated;
this will help to protect
them from the elements
2. Laying out the parts as they are cut
helps to get them right first time
19
20 21

®
WoodRat
THE ORIGINAL
woodworkersinstitute.com
The UK’s No. 1 source of information from the world of woodworking
and still the best way

to joint wood
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058_WPP_106.indd 58 3/25/15 9:53 AM

TECHNIQUE
DIY FIXES
Door repairs
The other day the Editor wryly observed ‘as one
door shuts, another one opens’. So just to prove he
isn’t completely unhinged, we thought he ought 1
to show us exactly what he meant and get a handle
on the problem…
T
his poor unloved interior door wood doors rather than pressed MDF
has had some mistreatment over and cardboard honeycomb core-types
time. I didn’t want to throw a that are often sold nowadays.
basically good softwood interior door
on the bonfire. It had a number of
problems but they needed proper
treatment rather than just dollops
1 There were multiple hinge
recesses, with the unwanted ones
just painted over. They weren’t well
of two-part resin filler, which isn’t a chopped out in any case – a job for
long lasting solution. Apart from small the router to tidy up, I think.
areas of damage that a standard wood
filler could deal with, everything else
needed proper patching. It was well
worth the effort of taking the door
2 The lock recess was also very badly
hacked about and not needed
now, as this door was going to be
off and working on it properly. These used for a walk-in cupboard, so a
techniques are applicable to solid ball catch would suffice this time. 2

‹
WPP106 P59-62 DIY FIXEStfABJRSD.indd 59 18/03/2015 13:37
TECHNIQUE
3 The first job was to open the

break in the top corner of the
door and squirt some aliphatic resin
glue inside. Once the corner was
stabilised, a patch repair could then
be carried out.
4 As you can see here, a quick

clamp across the top was used
to press the split closed and the
surplus glue wiped away. It is 4
important to remove unwanted
glue at this stage, as, if you only
use the minimum amount, that
will speed up the drying time.
5 The lock recess was in very

poor condition – one side was
splitting out, so a couple of pads were
clamped either side to hold it tight
while I cleaned up the sides with
a freshly sharpened chisel.
3 5
6 The next step was for a softwood
block to be cut and planed so
it would be a good sliding fit. Any
remaining gaps were then filled
using PU – polyurethane – glue as
the adhesive, which would expand
as it cured.
7 The big block was pushed down

below the door edge and a smaller
piece roughly cut to fill the remaining
gap. The glue would fill any gaps that
were left.
6 7
8 A waste piece of softwood was

then pinned across the recess to
hold the block in the mortise, as the
PU glue would try to force it out as
the foam expansion took place.
9 While that job was setting, I got

on with the unwanted hinge
recess. I used a hinge mortise bit
freehand because the router needed
to sit sideways to straddle the gap.
Care was needed not to break
through the side of the recess. 8 9
10 The recess ends were then

squared up with a very sharp
chisel as the door timber proved to
be a bit crumbly and was not cut
very nicely. Luckily, the router had
given a nice smooth bottom to the
recess, though.
11 A neatly cut patch was then

glued into place and held with
masking tape, ready to trim off once
the glue had set. 10 11
60 WPP
60 ISSUE 106

TECHNIQUE
12 Jumping from job to job, the
next item was the broken top
corner of the door with mysterious
holes drilled in it. I marked saw cut
lines around the damage so it could
be neatly cut away.
13 I chose a standard tenon saw

rather than a Japanese saw
because I felt I could keep a better
cut line. Only a small amount of 12 13
damage remained. I angled the saw
into the corner to make a shallow
relieving kerf so the patch piece
would sit in comfortably.
14 I cut the corner wedge so the

grain would run parallel with
that on the door. However, it needed
planing to make a snug fit so it was
rested on the large offcut clamped
in the vice, which kept the thin end
properly supported.
15 While the wedge piece glue-up

was drying, I checked on the
mortise lock infill and could see the
foaming glue splurging out nicely,
but it wasn’t set yet. At this point,
I left the door repairs to set properly
overnight.
“A Japanese saw with no

set to the teeth was the
perfect tool for this and 14
it didn’t leave scratches”
16 The next day, the first job

was for me to trim the corner
wedge back to the door edge and
top. A Japanese saw with no set to
the teeth was the perfect tool for
this job and it had the benefit of
not leaving scratches in the wood.
17 My 1920s Stanley No.41⁄2

smoother, shown here with
its keen carbon steel blade, was the
15 16
perfect way to level all the patched-

in surfaces. It has a dead level edge
and is finely set, so it won’t damage
the surrounding areas.
18 The mortise infill needed

neatly levelling with the router
and hinge mortise cutter with the
fence in place. Here you can see the
first pass has flatted the surface nicely
to one side and I’m about to machine
the rest of it. 17 18
www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 72 WOODWORKING PLANS & ISSUE
PROJECTS
106 WPP 61
61
‹
TECHNIQUE
19 The ends of the recess were

then chopped square with a
chisel and patch let in and glued in
place. It happened to be the perfect
thickness so no trimming was needed
later on.
20 The side of the mortise, which

tore away from the inside, was
clearly in a poor state and needed 19 20
dealing with. The first job was to dig
out the foam to check the extent of
the remaining damage.
21 Using the router freehand

again, I managed to create a
reasonably smooth elongated oval
recess. My cunning plan was to do
a rubbing of the recess and then use
a pencil to mark the edge of it as a
sawing and sanding guide.
“I stopped short of the

pencil line and kept
checking the fit” 21
22 Using the bandsaw, I took the

cut wide of the line because
the rest of it would be taken away
on the disc sander.
23 Care was needed to sand

evenly to the line and not
beyond it. In fact, I stopped short
of the pencil line and kept checking
the fit and that it was the right way
round, of course.
24 Not bad, really – glued in

with only a fine glue line
and then flushed off with the Stanley
smoother. Next stop, a coat of quick
drying primer/undercoat before
glossing to a nice finish! ■ 22
23 24
62 WPP
62 ISSUE 106

READY2 Easy to use
Precision movement
Repeatability
Instant joinery
Expandable
Built to last
READY2
Call 01494 523991 sales@tooltec.co.uk
Fax 01494 524293 www.tooltec.co.uk
063_WPP_106.indd 63 3/24/15 12:54 PM

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064_WPP_106.indd 64 3/25/15 9:50 AM

Hi-fi unit:
The Editor is about to
TECHNIQUE
put the record straight,
literally, as his hi-fi unit
final reaches its conclusion.
Now that’s music to
construction our ears…
L
ast month the hi-fi carcass got
built; it has had a light coating of
aqueous varnish to protect the
maple (Acer campestre) veneer until
I’m ready to apply a tougher coating.
Thankfully, the sizes of carcass
matched my original plan, back in
issue 102. The question now was how
to put the drawers together and size
them correctly, so they would fit in

the carcass compartments with drawer
runners attached. Rather late in the
day, I changed my mind about which
type of runners to use. Originally, it
was to be ‘easy runners’, which are
two-part with the drawer hooking into
the carcass section of the runners.
Instead I opted for galvanised pull-out
runners, which are pretty standard
nowadays and used on all sorts of
domestic furniture. I felt they would
be a better option – let’s see…
Drawers
1 The first job was to cut out the
drawer sides, fronts and backs
according to my original cutting plan.
Some of the drawer box fronts would
have the grain running vertically, but
in the event as I was planning the
cuts, some of these fitted in ‘with the
grain’ instead.
2 My usual method is to use a track

saw with a fine blade and cut the
12mm maple-faced MDF into strips
for each bank of drawer components.
That way, the board is reduced into
Drawer Box Fronts
Drawer Box Backs Drawer Sides Plant-on Fronts manageable sizes.
Plant-on Fronts
1 2
PROJECTS
106 WPP 65
65
‹
WPP106 P65-69 HIFI UNIT DRAWERStfJRABSD.indd 65 18/03/2015 13:39
TECHNIQUE
4 5
3 The veneered board is resting on

battens on the benchtop and the
blade just protruding through board
6 I made a slight error because I
decided to apply veneer tape to
the upper drawer box edges before
9 The last remaining veneer excess
is carefully sliced off using an ‘off
sharp’ chisel. If it was completely
thickness, so no damage is done to machining. Normally, this would be sharp, it could dig in quite deep,
the bench. done afterwards. The machining did but slightly used, the edge actually
cause minor damage, which I had to behaves better.
4 The drawer box components were

cut to size. This is easier said than
correct later.
10 The slots made with the grain

done because, although the depth is
not critical, so long as the drawers
plus planted-on fronts are set back
7 As soon as the veneer has been
made hot enough by the iron – to
melt the adhesive – I used a piece of
of the veneer were done using
a groover. In the case of the drawer
bottom slot, it was 7mm wide so the
in the carcass slightly, the width has MDF to help press the veneer down, drawer bottoms would fit slightly
to be exact. So careful measurement, paying special attention to the edges. loosely and easily. However, the
including the width of the runners, vertical drawer box slots were made
was used to determine the correct
sizes. The runners were to be set into
the drawer sides in shallow slots so
8 The veneered board is just 12mm
thick but the tape is almost double
that width, so the bulk of the waste is
using a 6.4mm straight cutter to avoid
tear-out. Lastly, a rebate cutter made
the tongues on the drawer box fronts
this was part of the equation. trimmed off with a knife. and backs – it needed to be a good fit.
5 Everything, including the drawer

bottoms, are cut and ready for
machining. The drawer bottoms will
be slightly smaller than the slots to
take them so they will fit comfortably.
7 8
6 9 10
66 WPP
66 ISSUE 106

TECHNIQUE
11 12 13
11 The sides of the drawer boxes

needed a shallow slot the width
and depth of the outermost section of
the runner, but only the first straight
part. Here the tenoning cutter, which
is the exact required 25mm diameter,
is being checked for height setting
against a drawer runner.
14 15
12 Extraction for the drawer
slotting was a bit problematic
because the MDF dust was ejected
but careful use of abrasive actually
tidied up these edges nicely. 17 During machining, I had one
nasty surprise when the cutter
forwards in a narrow spurt right off started to rise in the collet. I knew it
the router table. I opted to place the
pipe ahead of the cutter to catch the
early part of the dust ejection.
15 The complete joint is tested
dry to make sure it fits
correctly. Note how a tiny block in the
had happened because of a change in
machining noise and I ensured that I
stopped what I was doing immediately
corner of the bottom component has so I could check what had happened.
13 Once the workpiece passed

under the extraction pipe, the
only thing I could do was to let the
been knocked away by the cutter, but
luckily this doesn’t do anything useful.
This was no matter, however, as the
narrow tongue was packed with
two slips of glued coated veneer to
dust shoot forwards and land in a
heap on the floor. I wore a respirator
to avoid any rising dust although most
16 There were nine drawers to
assemble so the easiest way
was to make them all in batches. All
recreate a tight joint.
Hi-fi compartments
went straight to the floor. the drawer box corner joints were
glued using aliphatic resin glue and 18 The left-hand and centre
compartment would need a
14 Some of the drawer box

fronts had the grain running
crosswise because of the need to cut
were carefully assembled to avoid the
MDF delaminating. Once together,
the boxes are strong. The corner to
shelf each for the hi-fi amp and CD
player; the record player would sit
on top of the unit. I decided to have
them all out of just one 12mm board. corner dimensions were checked to full-length shelf supports, which were
The slotting caused some breakout ensure each drawer box was square. carefully drilled and countersunk.
17
16 18
PROJECTS
106 WPP 67
67
‹
TECHNIQUE
19 20 21
19 All four supports were sanded

together as the sander would
sit flat across all of them.
20 They were placed exactly on

the marked positions that
allowed for the drawer spacing above
each one.
21 The two equipment

compartments each need
ventilation and cable access. To do
this meant machining openings in
the back panel. The spacing was
important and by setting it slightly low
ensured that this would not be visible
from the front. A batten for a fence
was screwed exactly into the vertical
divisions to hold it in place.
22 The vertical slots were made

by simply screwing another
two pieces of ply to the fence; this
22
made for a rigid T-square to run the

router base against. 25 Fitting the drawers entailed
making up a ‘rod’ – a board
that showed exactly where the
Installation centreline of each runner would be.
23 My spirit level told me that the

hi-fi unit was level from left
to right but was leaning forward on
This was based on setting each drawer
box down as far as possible so CDs
and DVDs would sit low enough for
the exposed painted concrete floor. each drawer to open. The centreline
A wedge was used to hold it up level. marks were made on strips of masking
tape to avoid marking the carcass.
24 First with a pencil and block,

for a first scribe marking and
cut followed by pencil only, I was 26 Each runner was screwed in
the long slot near the back end.
able to cut the end panels and mid This is important as once the front
support so the unit would sit level end is screwed, the back end may
without wobbling. need slight adjustment up or down.
23
24 25 26
68 WPP
68 ISSUE 106

TECHNIQUE
27
28 29
27 At the front is an access hole

to allow the front end of the
runner to be screwed in position.
31 On the reverse, a Forstner
bit was used to cut recesses
for the drawer machine screw
33 Each drawer box had Trend
double-sided tape applied to
it and the front carefully lined up and
Once the back end is checked and heads. The machine screws needed stuck on. Then the drawer front was
adjusted, all the intermediate holes shortening with a hacksaw and the screwed on from inside the drawer
are used to screw to the carcass. Once ends smoothed on a dry grinder. box. All successive drawer fronts
all have been completed, the masking were completed in the same manner,
tape can be knifed away.
32 I made a fixing template from
a bit of hard-as-nails laminate
making sure they all lined up with
even gapping all round.
28 The drawer boxes slide on to

the extended runners, pulled
right to the front edge, then two
flooring. This went inside the front of
each drawer box for drilling the holes
to screw the plant-on fronts in place.
Finally, at long last, I’ve built our
new hi-fi unit and everything fits!
screws are used to fix the runners. At Each hole then needed countersinking Now we can finally sit back and
this point, I realised that the back end to retake the screw heads. enjoy the sound of music! ■
of the runners can only be screwed
with the back panel off! This wasn’t
an option and isn’t really necessary.
I used a right angle drive against the
wall side to screw the runners on.
29 I wanted the drawer front to

be set back into the carcass
by 2-3mm, so it would look neater.
As the runners can go right back into
the carcass I needed a drawer stop,
which was a piece of 35mm softwood 30 31
screwed to the inside back of the hi-fi
carcass.
30 The plant-on drawer fronts

were all carefully marked
to take their handles – again, using
masking tape to avoid marring the
drawer fronts. The fixing positions
had 95mm centres and I used a
bradpoint bit to make the holes on
my drill press for accuracy, working
against a fence. 32 33
PROJECTS
106 WPP 69
69
‹
TECHNIQUE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

Marqueterie De Paille
– The art of straw marquetry
Amber Bailey looks at how straw can be used for marquetry
O
riginating in Similar to traditional marquetry, walled, an agricultural by-product after
France, the straw is used to adorn furniture, the grain is extracted. Wheat, rye and
decorative household objects and trinkets or oat are all suitable for straw marquetry
art form of straw exist as art in its own right. When you and other crafts. Each species varies
marquetry spread across Europe imagine straw in the sense of use as in height and colour, but is never
between the 17th and 19th century, bedding for our precious animals, it divided by thickness when sold.
favoured particularly by prisoners is hard to believe anything beautiful Grain/cereals are planted around
of the Napoleonic war. While the could ever come from it but it has October and will grow until June
art form has been on the verge of one exceptional quality that wood when they are within no more than
extinction for quite some time, it veneer does not possess: the outside two weeks of fully ripening. This way
is only over the very recent years of straw is particularly shiny and the straw is still ever so slightly green
that this turned completely on its reflects against the light handsomely. when reaped, bundles are then strung
head. Contemporary practitioners Neither are you restricted to its natural up to dry until mid-August. It is after
are latching onto its possibilities colouring either as it takes to dyeing this point that any further preparation
as a highly specialised and coveted easily. Most straw suppliers offer pre- such as dyeing can take place.
treatment for top value furniture, dyed material in a range of colours. Working with straw marquetry there
to the point where its value almost are no shortcuts: each stem is dealt
eclipses that of its associated material, Preparing the straw with individually and by hand so can
wood veneer. Straw is long stemmed and hollow often take hundreds of hours.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS
Straw gathered into bale form after harvesting Wheat prior to harvesting the grain, leaving the straw for uses
such as marquetry
70 WOODWORKING
70 WPP ISSUE 106 PLANS & PROJECTS ISSUE 72 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
TECHNIQUE
The straw is split with a knife or even To stop the straw splitting when it is
using a fingernail flattened out, lightly soaking will soften
the straw
Raw, pre-dyed straw
To prepare the straw for marquetry

it is split, often soaked, then flattened
into ribbon strips. Soaking can be
in a bowl of warm or cold water or
merely damped with a wet towel. The
more advanced straw handlers tend to
prefer ironing the straw flat; however,
it is just as effective to use a scraper An amateur but effective means of The straw flattened out and ready to use
flattening the straw is using a veneer
or veneer hammer. Professional tools
hammer
such as straw splitters are available but
not absolutely necessary.
Natural straw will vary in colour
between pale gold to a dark brown;
it is only with dyeing that uniformity
may be maintained. The ribbons of
straw can be worked with individually
or built up in sheets by backing them
with paper or veneer tape, which
will give you a greater surface area
to manipulate for your design. Two pieces of straw taped together… … to create a larger surface area
THE TECHNIQUE
Design
It is possible to create marquetry style free-form designs, but ribbon direction can produce an interesting 3D effect.
to begin with it can be easier to focus on parquetry patterns For easy reference, I have created my own chart of
as the geometrical shapes will be easy to follow with the straw generic parquetry designs (below) that I can always look to
strips – as you can see in the example. Alternating colours and whenever I need ideas for a project.
PROJECTS
106 WPP 71
71
‹
WPP106 P70-72 STRAW MARQUETRYtfJRABSD.indd 71 18/03/2015 13:42
TECHNIQUE
Health and safety

It is important to always cut at
Cutting the layers of straw marquetry an angle away from yourself; this
will avoid the blade slipping and
Cutting keep it backed with paper or veneer potentially causing a nasty
Flattened into ribbons, the straw is tape, although as much of this as accident!
exceptionally thin and requires no possible will need to be removed
more than a scalpel blade to cut it. prior to gluing to ensure a successful circumstances. Animal/pearl glue
If you are a dab hand at traditional bond. is readily available; however, my
marquetry, you will have no trouble personal preference of fish glue –
applying the ‘window’ or ‘piece-by- Gluing colle de poisson – does not require
piece’ cutting method to straw as well With the design ready to be glued in the same preparation time.
as veneer. a single go, the traditional rules of
The easiest cutting method is to marquetry apply. Cover both the back Finishing
keep a master copy of your design and of the straw and the groundwork in a With the marquetry glued up it can
take tracings of individual sections to thin film of adhesive. Once in place, be further smoothed and scraped;
be cut out; this can then be overlaid keep flattened with the aid of a veneer however, it does not require the
onto the straw and cut around. Your press or similar for at least 12 hours. same attention as wood veneer. It is
image can be built up by continuing A contemporary wood glue is possible to add a surface finish but
with this technique or start to overlay suitable, but traditionally, protein- really it needs little more than buffing
existing straw sections in place of a based adhesives were used and these up with wax to really help bring out
tracing. To hold your design together, allow for rehydration in problematic the shimmer of the straw.
MAKING A VENEER CAUL
A problem I have had for some time

is successfully being able to press
marquetry on a restricted space and
cost budget. Although a couple of
pieces of board and clamps can work
for small projects, it is hard to evenly
distribute enough pressure on the
work. My solution was to enlist the
Editor to help make a veneer caul.
A veneer caul can be made in any It isn’t a necessity for the batons to be Not all F-clamps have handles that are
size and is essentially the board drilled down, but it makes the job a lot suitable for applying intense pressure
and clamp method with some extra easier, particularly as I needed to be able
technical difficulties to ensure to work the process on my own!
successful results. The caul is made up
of two separate, but identical, sections
and each has a large, heavy piece of
plywood for the pressing surface.
Plywood is ideal here and projects
can then be clamped between both
sections. It is easy to produce enough
pressure for the edges to be pressed
tightly, but there is often an air pocket
in the centre between the project and
press. Rather than clamping straight A metal detector was used to check... ... whether a tommy bar could be fitted
onto the plywood, a series of batons for extra leverage
72 WPP
72 ISSUE 106

TECHNIQUE
have been drilled at the centre point
of the ply. These batons have a slight
curve, which pulls more pressure
down onto the caul when clamped up.
These curves need to be identical and
the gradient of the curve will depend
on the wood used for the batons.
F-clamps are the ideal means of
clamping, quick grips won’t provide
enough pressure. To make sure that
there was no danger of excess glue
sticking projects to the caul, a piece
of polycarbonate was adhered to the
inside of both caul sections.
I felt it was time to brave my
first straw marquetry object – an
earring holder made simply with a
groundwork stand of stained plywood,
my straw marquetry pattern glued
onto the face and holes drilled
repeatedly for the earrings to hang. ■ The veneer caul in action
Taking away the clamps to unveil whether the caul has worked My first pressing experiment is flat! Success!
A simple earring
sstand made
oof a plywood
ggroundwork and
eembellished with
tthe traditional
‘‘dice’ parquetry
ddesign in natural,
bbleached and
ddyed pink straw.
A series of holes
wwere drilled for
sstud earrings to
bbe pinned onto
tthe stand
A panel of basic parquetry straw marquetry samples – not bad

for a first attempt
PROJECTS
106 WPP 73
73

FEATURE
A look at…
A mason’s
mitre
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JIM HOOKER
Jim Hooker makes a deliberately

understated cabinet from reclaimed
mahogany and fabric-covered MDF
and shows you how to make the
perfect mason’s mitre Door rails
On the door rails of the cabinet, you have a choice of
I
t started with a chance conversation in a Devon antique ways to deal with the chamfers’ intersection with the
shop where I learnt of a nearby furniture breaker. There glazing bars. You can stop the chamfers short and leave
I found two gorgeous mahogany – probably Swietenia yourself the enjoyable task of carving a few more mason’s
mahogani – table leaves. The density and deep colour were mitres, or forget about the glazing bars – as I did – and sail
quite unlike anything currently available. I had no idea what straight through with the router.
I would make with them but knew I had to have them and This leaves the somewhat trickier job of scribing the
they duly travelled with us for the rest of our holiday. ends of the glazing bars to fit over the rail chamfer. This
They sat in my workshop for a couple of years before looks just as neat as a mason’s mitre and I like the visual
the right project emerged – this wall-mounted display variation in detail it creates, but this of course is a matter
cabinet. It needed to be reasonably large to accommodate of personal taste.
my wife’s collection of wooden and bronze bears, but two
table leaves do not yield a lot of timber, so only the doors The mason’s mitre
and end frames are solid mahogany. The back is fabric- To perfect your technique practise on two pieces of scrap
covered MDF and the top and bottom are veneered MDF clamped together. Rout stopped mitres on all four sides of
lipped with mahogany. the rail piece so you can practise right- and left-hand mitres.
74 WPP
74 ISSUE 106
WPP106 P74-75 A LOOK ATtfABJRSD.indd 74 18/03/2015 13:45

FEATURE
1 The first step is to register the back of the chisel on the
stile chamfer. 2 Keep the chisel registered and rotate it to start forming
the mitre ending in the rail. Do not attempt to go too
deep at this stage.
3 Register the chisel back on the rail chamfer and pair the
unchamfered part. Take only a thin paring each time. 4 Continue paring and begin to form the mitre ending in
the stile.
5 Repeat previous steps until the final paring of the rail

and mitre ending in the stile. 6 The completed mason’s mitre should look something
like this. ■
PROJECTS
106 WPP 75
75
‹
WPP106 P74-75 A LOOK ATtfABJRSD.indd 75 18/03/2015 13:45
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The UK’s essential workshop project & technical manual

Plans & Projects

Carved Birch Bowl • Oak TV Cabinet • Flexible Lid Cold Frame

PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

The ‘old’ magazine

EDITOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS DISTRIBUTED BY

www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 1

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This month in Woodworking Plans & Projects

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Books & DVDs

All of the above

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF IRWIN TOOLS

IRWIN Tools launches 2015 National Tradesmen Day

READER LETTER Dear Woodworking Plans & Projects,

were kind enough to print it in your September, 2007 issue.

4 WPP ISSUE 106 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ICHF EVENTS

Accompanying this, the Graduate Marquee offers visitors

Isca Woodcrafts’ 10th anniversary Wood Show

www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 5

£100,000 investment in Moray Monster Trails

will make the Monster Trails a key riding.

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£78.99 *TSP Inc. VAT £42.20 *TSP Inc. VAT

200 x 85mm C Cramp

Stock No. 51085

Stock No. 32272

£21.95 *TSP Inc. VAT £12.45 *TSP Inc. VAT

Pocket Hole Jig

Draper publications are available

008_WPP_106.indd 8 3/24/15 12:47 PM

1 I started with single board of

1 2 2 A bit of working out and I had my

3 Now I’d created a pile of parts

www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 9 ›

5 All the parts were placed together

6 The ones for the ends of the skirt

7 All the slots were now cut and

8 The hand-hold would need to be

9 To make it, I needed a template

10 WPP ISSUE 106 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WPP106 P9-11 ROUTERCENTRICtfABJRSD.indd 10 18/03/2015 13:04

11 The ends were completed with

12 The template was pinned to

13 I then realised I needed

14 Now a good sanding was

15 It was important to match

16 17 18 The stool iss

www.woodworkersinstitute.com ISSUE 106 WPP 11

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WHERE QUALITY INCLUDES LEFT

sharpening at the £21EXC.VAT

SANDER 11000rpm Operating Speed • Max thickness SPEED WOOD LATHE

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WOODWORKING 10" SLIDING MITRE SAWS DUST EXTRACTOR/

/DEPTH)mm EXC.VAT INC.VAT

£78.99 TSP Inc. VAT £42.20 TSP Inc. VAT

£21.95 TSP Inc. VAT £12.45 TSP Inc. VAT