PEEC Electronic System Functional Tests

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Troubleshooting
3406B (PEEC) PROGRAMMABLE ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS
Media Number -SENR3479-05 Publication Date -01/02/1991 Date Updated -11/10/2001
PEEC Electronic System Functional Tests

These tests are designed to establish whether a component and related parts are working properly,
and if not, to pinpoint the faulty component.
These tests may also be used for basic health checks, to determine if problems exist, or as a guide to
check for intermittent problems.
P-201: Inspecting Electrical Connectors

Many of the Operational Procedures and Diagnostic Code Procedures in this troubleshooting guide
will direct you to check a specific electrical connector. Use the following steps to help determine if
the connector is the cause of the problem. If a problem is found in the electrical connector, repair the
connector and continue the test procedure.
1. Check connector lock ring.
Make sure that connector was properly locked and that the lock ring is capable of locking connector
together.
2. Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin/wire.
Each pin and connector should easily withstand 10 pounds of pull, and remain in the connector body.
This test checks whether the wire was properly crimped in the pin, and whether the pin was properly
inserted into the connector. Repair as needed.
NOTE: Any time a wire is removed from a connector for testing purposes, do a 10 pound pull test
after reinserting the wire.
NOTE: Pins should ALWAYS be crimped onto the wires; NEVER soldered. Use 1U5804 Crimping
Tool (part of 4C3406 Connector Repair Kit).
3. Visually inspect wiring.
Look for worn or abraded wires. Check for pinched or damaged harnesses, especially on OEM
wiring and early PEEC engines.
4. Visually inspect connectors.
Verify that pins and sockets are not corroded or damaged. Verify proper alignment and location of
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pins in the connector.
5. Check individual pins and sockets.
This is especially important for intermittent problems. Using a new pin, insert the pin into each
socket one at a time to check for a good grip on the pin by the socket. Repeat for each pin on the
mating side of the connector, using a new socket for the test.
P-210: Electrical Power Supply To PEEC Test

The PEEC ECM receives electrical power (battery voltage) through wiring supplied by the vehicle
manufacturer. In typical applications, PEEC receives power whenever the key is turned on.
Some vehicles may be equipped with an engine protection shutdown system (such as a Kysor or
Vigil shutdown system) or an idle time shutdown system (external to PEEC) that interrupts electrical
power to the ECM to shut the engine down. Some of these will not supply power to PEEC until the
engine is cranked, until oil pressure comes up to acceptable limits, or until an override button is
pressed. Keep in mind that these devices may be the cause of no (or intermittent) power to the ECM.
This procedure tests whether proper voltage is being supplied by the vehicle wiring. Detailed tests to
identify specific failures in the vehicle wiring are the responsibility of the vehicle manufacturer.
Note that the ECAP or DDT is supplied with electrical power through direct connections inside the
ECM. Therefore, if the ECAP or DDT has power, so does the ECM.
For intermittent problems that could be caused by vehicle wiring (such as intermittent shutdowns),
temporarily bypassing the vehicle wiring may be an effective means of determining the root cause. If
symptoms vanish with the wiring bypassed, vehicle wiring was the cause. A means of bypassing
vehicle wiring is explained below.
Step 1. Check Electrical Connectors And Wiring
Check vehicle connector (J2/P2) and battery power and grounds to J2/P2, being sure to:
* Check Connector lock rings.
* Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin or wire.
* Inspect wiring for damage or abrasion.
* Inspect connectors for damage or corrosion. Refer to P-201: Inspecting Electrical Connectors for
details. Repair any damage, then continue with the next step.
* Visually and physically check grounds for looseness or corrosion. If a problem is found,
disconnect, clean, and reconnect the connector
Step 2. Check Battery Voltage Coming To ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at the ECM vehicle connector (J2/P2).
B. Turn key ON, engine OFF.
C. Measure the voltage between + Battery (Pin A) and ground (Pin B).
The voltage at Pin A should be between 11.5 and 13.5 VDC.
OK: The ECM is currently receiving the correct voltage. If intermittent problems with battery
voltage may be occurring, consider temporarily bypassing vehicle wiring as shown in Step 4.
Otherwise, Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is NOT receiving the correct voltages. Continue with the next step.
Step 3. Check Batteries
A. Measure battery voltage at the battery posts.
B. Load test the batteries using the 4C4911 Battery Load Tester. Make reference to Operation
Manual, Form No. SEHS9249 for more complete information for use of the 6V4930 Battery Load
Tester.
The voltage at the batteries should be at least 11.5 VDC, and the batteries should pass the load
test.
OK: The batteries are not the problem. Wiring or components between the batteries and PEEC are
preventing voltage from reaching PEEC. Refer to the service manual for the vehicle for instructions
on how to troubleshoot the vehicle wiring. Stop.
NOT OK: The batteries are defective. Replace the defective batteries. Stop.
Step 4. Bypass Vehicle Wiring For Testing
NOTE: This bypass is for TEST PURPOSES ONLY. It may be left on the vehicle temporarily to
test whether intermittent problems are due to interruptions in battery power to the ECM. Since this
will also bypass any engine protection devices, obtain approval from the owner before releasing a
truck with this bypass installed. The bypass switch is installed in parallel with the ignition switch.
Either one will turn power ON, and both must be OFF to turn power OFF and shutdown the engine.
A. Build a bypass circuit as shown in the illustration below, using #14 AWG wire.
B. Connect the battery end of the bypass DIRECTLY to the battery posts.
C. Remove Pins A (+ Battery) and B (-Battery) from J2 (Vehicle connector - vehicle side).
D. Insert the other end of the bypass into J2 Pins A and B (as shown below).
E. Connect the wire that was formerly in J2 Pin B into the socket spliced into the bypass.
F. Connect the wire that was formerly in J2 Pin A into the socket that is spliced into the bypass.
(This supplies power to the throttle sensor and vehicle speed buffer through the bypass rather than
the vehicle wiring). Tape this connection to keep it clean, prevent shorting, and prevent loosening
during vehicle operation. Then turn the ignition key OFF. This will isolate the PEEC system from
the original vehicle power circuit.
G. Install the temporary switch in the cab.
H. After tests are complete, restore all wiring to original condition.
The engine should perform normally with the bypass installed.
OK: If symptoms disappear with the bypass installed, but come back when it is removed, the
problem is in the vehicle wiring supplying power to PEEC. Send the vehicle to the OEM dealer for
repair of the vehicle wiring.
NOT OK: If symptoms continue even with the bypass installed, the problem is in PEEC. Continue
with the procedure in this manual that best describes the symptom(s).
P-211: Throttle Position Sensor Test

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is used to provide a throttle signal to the ECM. Sensor output is a
constant frequency signal whose pulse width varies with throttle position. This output signal is
referred to as either "Duty Cycle" or a "Pulse Width Modulated (PWM)" signal and is expressed as a
percentage. When correctly adjusted, the remotely mounted TPS will produce a "Duty Cycle" of 15
to 20% at low idle and 80 to 85% at full throttle. The pedal mounted throttle position sensor will
produce a "Duty Cycle" signal of 10 to 22% at low idle and 75 to 90% at full throttle. This is then
translated by the ECM into a "Throttle Position" of 3 to 100%.
The throttle position sensor may be one of two types. The "Remote-Mounted" (TPS) is about the size
of a soft drink can and is connected to the throttle pedal by OEM-supplied linkage. It requires
adjustment for proper operation (see procedure P-306). The "Pedal-Mounted" TPS is mounted
directly to a specific style of throttle pedal and requires no adjustment, and in fact can not be
adjusted. Both sensors provide the same type of signal to the ECM.
Check the vehicle connector (J2/P2) and throttle sensor connector (J12/P12) and wiring between
them, being sure to:
Step 2. Check Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
A. If equipped with a "Pedal-Mounted" Throttle Position Sensor, proceed to Step 3.
B. Refer to procedure P-306: Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment to determine if the sensor is
correctly adjusted.
The sensor should be able to be correctly adjusted as explained in P-306.
OK: Adjustment is correct. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The sensor could not be adjusted properly. There is a problem with the sensor circuit.
Proceed to Step 4.
Step 3. Check Throttle Position Reading
A. Turn key OFF, then back ON to reset the throttle position reading.
B. Observe the "Throttle Pos" reading on the "Display Status" screen of the ECAP or DDT while
pressing and releasing the throttle.
The "Throttle Pos" should read 3% with the throttle pedal released and progressively increase
to 100% when the throttle pedal is fully pressed.
OK: The throttle position sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: Continue to next step.
Step 4. Check Throttle Sensor Voltage Supply
A. Install a 3-pin 'T' at throttle sensor connector (J12/P12).
B. Measure the voltage between + Battery (Pin A) and ground (Pin B) on the 'T'.
The supply voltage to the sensor should be between 11.5 and 13.5 VDC
OK: Voltage supply OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The throttle position sensor is not being supplied with the correct voltage. Inspect the
OEM-supplied wiring and vehicle electrical system for a problem. Stop.
Step 5. Check Throttle Sensor Output Duty Cycle At Throttle Sensor
A. Remove throttle sensor wire (Pin C) from J12. (This disconnects OEM wiring from the sensor).
B. Connect the ECAP or DDT's PWM probe to Pin C of the 'T'.
C. Use the ECAP or DDT to display the Duty Cycle output of the throttle sensor while pressing and
releasing the pedal.
The DUTY CYCLE should be between 15 and 20% at the low idle position and increase to
between 80 and 85% at the high idle position.
D. Reinsert Wire C in J12.
OK: The throttle sensor is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The throttle sensor is defective or out of adjustment. Replace or adjust the sensor. Stop.
Step 6. Check Throttle Sensor Duty Cycle At ECM
A. Remove throttle signal (Wire E) from P2. (This disconnects the ECM from the throttle signal).
B. Install a 9-pin 'T' at vehicle connector (J2/P2).
C. Connect the PWM probe to Pin E on the 'T'.
D. Use the ECAP or DDT to display the Duty Cycle of the throttle sensor while pressing and
releasing the pedal.
The DUTY CYCLE should be between 15 and 20% at the low idle position and increase to
between 80 and 85% at the high idle position.
E. Reinsert Wire E in P2.
OK: A good throttle signal is reaching the ECM. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The harness is damaged between the ECM and the throttle sensor. Inspect and repair as
necessary. Stop.
Step 7. Check ECM
A. Be sure that the wires removed in Steps 4 and 5 have been reinserted.
B. Check to see if Diagnostic Code 32 is ACTIVE.
OK: NOT ACTIVE: The throttle sensor and ECM are currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: ACTIVE: The ECM is not reading the throttle sensor signal. Be sure that it was
determined in Step 6 that a good throttle signal is reaching the ECM. If so, replace the ECM. Stop.
P-212: Diagnostic Lamp Test
The Diagnostic Lamp is used to indicate the existence of a fault, to indicate "driver alert" status of
the Idle Shutdown Timer, and may be used to read Diagnostic Codes. While the engine is operating,
it will go on for a minimum of 5 seconds any time a fault condition exists. It will remain on as long
as the fault is ACTIVE.
On power up and on engine start up, the lamp comes ON for 5 seconds, blinks OFF, comes ON for
another 5 seconds, then goes OUT for 5 seconds. After this time, ACTIVE diagnostic codes will be
flashed out.
Active faults may also be flashed out at any time by turning the cruise ON/OFF switch to OFF, and
holding the SET/RESUME switch in the RESUME position until the lamp begins to flash, then
releasing it.
One terminal of the lamp is supplied with battery voltage whenever the key is ON. The other
terminal is connected to the ECM at P1/J1 Pin G to turn the lamp on. Pin G will be at battery voltage
when the lamp is OFF, and less than 2 volts when the lamp is turned ON.
Step 1. Test Lamp Through ECM
Turn key ON, engine OFF.
The lamp should come ON for 10 seconds, then OUT for 5 seconds, then flash diagnostic codes.
OK: Lamp is working normally. Stop.
NOT OK: Lamp is not working properly. Continue to next step.
Step 2. Bypass The ECM
A. Remove diagnostic lamp wire from P1, Pin G, and ground the wire.
B. Turn key ON, engine OFF. Lamp should come ON and stay ON.
OK: The lamp circuit is OK, but the ECM is not grounding lamp. Replace the ECM. Stop.
NOT OK: Verify that power is reaching lamp socket. If so, replace bulb. Stop.
P-213: Vehicle Speed Signal Test
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PEEC uses vehicle speed information for cruise control, to limit engine speed in certain gears, and to
limit vehicle speed.
PEEC calculates vehicle speed by converting the vehicle speed signal to miles per hour. The
conversion factor is customer programmable and is stored in Pulses Per Mile (PPM).
NOTE: Changing PPM DOES NOT change the actual vehicle speed signal-only the way the ECM
converts the signal to mph. (In other words, changing PPM will NOT affect the speedometer).
The vehicle speed circuit consists of the vehicle speed sensor, the vehicle speed buffer, and
associated wiring. The sensor is a standard magnetic pickup and is supplied by the truck
manufacturer. It senses movement of teeth on the output shaft of the transmission. The buffer
(Caterpillar supplied) takes the signal from the sensor, conditions it, and sends it to both the ECM
and the vehicle speedometer.
The buffer is supplied with battery voltage through J13/P13 Pin A. Ground is supplied through
J13/P13 Pin B. A good ground is very important in order to reduce electrical "noise", which
can cause erratic signals.
One of two types of buffers may be used. The 3E0020 buffer is an improved version of the 7T6398,
and is a direct pin-for-pin replacement. Either buffer should be grounded at the same point as the
ECM to minimize "electrical noise" in the ground circuit.
There are three acceptable options for wiring the vehicle speed circuit:
NOTE: For all three options, the Vehicle Speed Buffer should be grounded to the same ground point
as the ECM using a separate, dedicated ground wire. This holds true for either the 7T6398 or the
3E0020 Vehicle Speed Buffer. On 3406B PEEC engines, the ECM ground point is determined by
the vehicle manufacture (typically the starter negative post, a cab ground post, or the engine block).
1. Use separate sensors, with the second sensor supplying the signal to the speedometer. This option
completely isolates the two circuits and is preferred by Caterpillar. See Illustration 1.
Illustration 1
Recommended vehicle speed circuit wiring when using two separate sensors. For 3E0020 or 7T6398 Vehicle Speed
Buffer.
2. Use a single sensor, with the vehicle speed buffer supplying the signal to the speedometer. This
option provides good results when properly wired. When using the previous 7T6398 Vehicle Speed
Buffer, the circuit should be wired as shown in Illustration 2a. The ground connection for the
speedometer should be connected to the ECM ground point, and SHOULD NOT be connected to
the cab ground.
Note that this illustration is electrically identical to the schematic in 3406B (PEEC) Diesel Truck
Engine Electrical Schematic Form No SENR3486, which is in the complete Service Manual, 3406B
(PEEC) Diesel Truck Engine, Form No. SENR3570, but shows the required grounding for the
speedometer more clearly.
Illustration 2a
Recommended vehicle speed circuit wiring when using a single sensor with 7T6398 Vehicle Speed Buffer. (See
Illustration 2b for 3E0020 Vehicle Speed Buffer).
When using a single sensor with the 3E0020 Vehicle Speed Buffer, the circuit should be wired as
shown in Illustration 2b. The grounding requirements for the speedometer are less stringent when
using the 3E0020 Vehicle Speed Buffer than when using the 7T6398 Vehicle Speed Buffer.
Illustration 2b
Single sensor wired as recommended for 3E0020 Vehicle Speed Buffer. (See Illustration 2a for 7T6398 Vehicle Speed
Buffer).
3. Use a dual winding sensor, with the second winding supplying the signal to the speedometer. This
option is not preferred by Caterpillar, but can provide acceptable results if a good quality sensor is
used. Dual winding sensors may be used in some new OEM installations which have been
specifically reviewed by Caterpillar.
Illustration 3
Recommended vehicle speed circuit wiring when using a dual-winding sensor. For 3E0020 or 7T6398 Vehicle Speed
Buffer.
The buffer has outputs to both the ECM and the vehicle speedometer. The output to the ECM is the
same on both the 7T6398 buffer and the 3E0020 buffer: a series of 5 volt pulses at J13/P13 Pin D,
whose frequency varies directly with the speed of the vehicle.
When a single vehicle speed sensor is used, the speedometer is fed from the buffer.
A. The 7T6398 buffer has one speedometer output of -2.5 to +2.5 volt pulses at J13/P13 Pin C.
Pin E is not used on the 7T6398.
B. The 3E0020 buffer has two speedometer outputs, one at Pin C and one at Pin E. Output at
each one is a series of -9 volt to +9 volt pulses. The two outputs oppose one another; when Pin
C is at +9 volts, Pin E is at -9 volts, and vice versa. Either or both outputs may by used.
Test Procedure:
Check vehicle connectors (J2/P2) and vehicle speed buffer connectors (J13/P13) and wiring between
* Note which wiring option is used.
Step 2. Inspect Sensor
Remove the vehicle speed sensor(s) from the transmission and inspect for steel shavings and debris,
or damage. Wipe sensor(s) clean. Test sensor according to manufacturer's instructions (sensor is
OEM supplied).
OK: Continue to next step.
NOT OK: If sensor is damaged or does not operate properly, replace sensor. Stop.
NOTE: Shavings and debris on the sensor may recur unless the transmission fluid is drained and
replaced.
Step 3. Check ECAP/DDT And Speedometer With Truck Parked, Engine Running
Install ECAP or DDT, and run the engine with truck parked, not moving. Try several engine speeds.
The vehicle speedometer and ECAP/DDT should remain at zero mph.
NOT OK: Speedometer is giving false readings due to poor grounding. Check that buffer and
speedometer grounds are as recommended (see illustrations). Stop.
Step 4. Check Vehicle Speed Correlation
Dyno test or road test vehicle. Compare mph on ECAP/DDT display against speedometer, and
against actual vehicle speed as measured on a dyno or by stopwatch.
ECAP/DDT and speedometer should agree with actual speed.
OK: Vehicle speed circuit is working normally. Stop.
NOT OK: * If speedometer is inoperative, intermittent, or inaccurate, repair speedometer circuit or

recalibrate speedometer. Stop.
* If ECAP/DDT reading is stable but inaccurate, calculate new scale factor using P-307: Vehicle
Speed Calibration, and enter into PEEC system using the ECAP/DDT. Repeat Step 4. Stop.
* If ECAP/DDT reading is absent or intermittent, continue to next step.
Step 5. Check Buffer Supply Voltage
A. Install a 5-pin 'T' on the vehilce speed buffer connector at J13 (vehicle wiring side only).
B. Turn key ON and measure voltage from + battery (Pin A) to ground (Pin B).
Buffer supply voltage should read 11.5 to 13.5 volts DC.
OK: Voltage is correct to the buffer. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The buffer is not getting correct voltage. Check and repair OEM supplied wiring. Stop.
Step 6. Check Buffer Signal With Truck Parked, Engine OFF (7T6398 only)
NOTE: For 3E0020 go to Step 7.
A. Check Buffer Operation
Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor from the input wires to the vehicle speed buffer. Attach the 'T'
to P13 and J13. Remove Wire D at J13 (vehicle side). Measure vehicle speed signal voltage (Pin D
to Pin B) (key still ON). Alternately open and short the input wires to the buffer.
The buffer should read 4.5 to 8 volts DC with the input wires open, and less than 1 volt DC
with the input wires shorted.
OK: Buffer operation is correct. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Buffer is not supplying the proper signal to the ECM. Replace buffer. Stop.
B. Check Vehicle Speed Signal Coming To ECM
Reinsert the wire into Pin D of J13, leaving the sensor disconnected from the buffer. Install a 9-pin
'T' at J2 only (vehicle side). Measure the vehicle speed signal voltage (Pin D to Pin B).
Voltage should read 4.5 to 8 volts DC.
OK: The vehicle speed signal is reaching the ECM. Proceed to Step 8.
NOT OK: The vehicle speed signal is not getting to the ECM. Repair fault in harness between J13
and J2. Stop.
Step 7. Check Buffer Signal With Truck Parked, Engine OFF (3E0020 only).
NOTE: For 7T6398 go to Step 6.
A. Check Buffer Operation
1. With key OFF, attach the 'T' to vehicle speed buffer connector P13/J13). Remove wires from Pins
C, D, and E of J13 (vehicle side) and note location for reinstallation.
2. Disconnect the buffer input wires from the vehicle speed sensor. Connect the white input wire to
Pin A of P13 (+ battery) on the 'T'.
3. Turn key ON. Measure voltages from Pins C, D, and E on the 'T' with respect to Pin B (ground)
(white input wire jumpered to P13-A).
The voltages should read as shown below:
Pin D: Less than 1.0 VDC
Pin C: -9.0 ± 1.0 VDC
Pin E: +9.0 ± 1.0 VDC
4. Move the white wire jumper to P13-B (ground), and take the readings again. Voltages should now
be opposite:
Pin D: +4.5 to 8 volts DC
Pin C: +9.0 ± 1.0 VDC
Pin E: -9.0 ± 1.0 VDC
5. After taking readings, reinsert wires into J13 C, D, and E.
OK: Buffer is working normally. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Buffer is not working properly. Replace buffer. Stop.
B. Check Harness Between Buffer And ECM
1. The white wire from the sensor should still be connected to P-13 Pin B.
2. Install a 9-pin 'T' at J2 only (vehicle side). Measure the voltage on the 'T' from J2 Pin D to Pin B.
The voltage should be 4.5 to 8 volts DC.
3. After the test, connect the 'T' to P2 also (ECM side).
OK: The vehicle speed signal is reaching the ECM. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The vehicle speed signal is not reaching the ECM. Repair fault in harness between J13
and J2. Stop.
Step 8. Dynamic Test Using Engine Speed Signal
A. Install a 9-pin 'T' at transducer module connectors (J5/P5) (both sides).
B. Remove Wire D at P2.
C. Connect a jumper wire from the engine speed signal (Pin A of the 'T' at J5/P5) to Wire D removed
from P2. THIS CONNECTS ENGINE SPEED TO THE VEHICLE SPEED INPUT.
D. START THE ENGINE, and read vehicle speed on the ECAP or DDT.
Vehicle speed should read about 10 to 20 mph at an idle speed of 600 rpm.
NOTE: The exact mph is not important in this test - only that the ECM reads the signal.
OK: The ECM is working normally at this time. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not reading the vehicle speed signal. Replace the ECM. Stop.
P-214: Cruise Control And PTO Switches Test
The PEEC cruise control operates similar to automotive cruise controls. PTO mode operates similar
to cruise, only it governs engine speed with the vehicle stationary. Four switch inputs to PEEC affect
cruise or PTO:
1. CRUISE ON/OFF
This switch must be ON for cruise or PTO to be activated. The signal goes to J2/P2 (Vehicle
connector), Pin F.
2. SET/ACCEL
With the ON/OFF switch ON, momentarily pressing this switch will activate cruise, and will tell the
cruise or PTO to try to maintain the current speed. Holding this switch ON will cause cruise or PTO
to slowly accelerate this setpoint. The signal goes to J2/P2 (Vehicle connector), Pin J.
3. RESUME/DECEL
With the ON/OFF switch ON, momentarily pressing this switch will also activate cruise, and will tell
the cruise or PTO to resume with the setpoint used when cruise was last disabled. Holding this
switch ON will cause cruise or PTO to slowly decelerate this setpoint. The signal goes to J2/P2
(Vehicle connector), Pin H.
4. CLUTCH/BRAKE
Depressing either the clutch or the brake pedal will cause cruise or PTO to deactivate. The signal
goes to J2/P2 (Vehicle connector), Pin G.
NOTE: All these switches are typically in the truck cab, and are supplied by the OEM. To
troubleshoot the ON/OFF, SET, or RESUME switches, use this procedure. To troubleshoot the
CLUTCH or BRAKE switches, use P-215: Service Brake And Clutch Switch Test.
Voltage at each of the switch inputs to the ECM should be 5.0 ± 0.5 volts with the switch open (or
OFF), and less than 0.5 volts with the switch closed (or ON).
Step 1. Check Switch Status On ECAP Or DDT
A. Install ECAP or DDT and turn key ON.
B. Operate CRUISE ON/OFF switch while observing status of "Cruise/PTO Sw".
C. Operate SET/ACCEL switch while observing status of "Set Sw".
D. Operate RESUME/DECEL switch while observing status of "Resume Sw".
The status of each should read "ON" with the switch On, and "OFF" with the switch OFF.
OK: The switches are operating normally. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not seeing the switch status change. Continue with next step.
Step 2. Check Switch Resistance At Vehicle Connector
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' to J2 (vehicle connector) (vehicle side only).
B. Using a ohmmeter, Measure the resistance from each switch output terminal (listed below) to J2
Pin B (- Battery). Operate each switch and measure the resistance with switch closed and with switch
open.
The resistances should be:
CRUISE ON
J2 Pin F to J2 Pin B (-Battery) < 10 ohms
CRUISE OFF
J2 Pin F to J2 Pin B (-Battery) > 10 K ohms
SET/ACCEL ON
J2 Pin J to J2 Pin B (-Battery) < 10 ohms
SET/ACCEL OFF
J2 Pin J to J2 Pin B (-Battery) > 10 K ohms
RESUME/DECEL ON
J2 Pin H to J2 Pin B (-Battery) < 10 ohms
RESUME/DECEL OFF
J2 Pin H to J2 Pin B (-Battery) > 10 K ohms
OK: Vehicle wiring checks OK. If Step 1 found that the ECM is not seeing the switch status change,
then the ECM is getting the proper signals, but is not reading them correctly. Verify that the ECM is
receiving proper battery voltage. If so, replace the ECM. Stop.
NOT OK: There is a problem in the vehicle wiring. Repair as needed, using the OEM wiring
schematics, or refer to the OEM dealer. Stop.
P-215: Service Brake And Clutch Switch Test
The BRAKE and CLUTCH switches are used in cruise control or PTO mode to discontinue cruise or
PTO operation. The switches may also be used to override the Idle Shutdown Timer.
The brake and clutch switches are normally closed and are wired in series to ground. Depressing
either the clutch or brake opens the circuit. The signal goes to the ECM through P2/J2 Pin G.
Voltage at Pin G should be 5.0 ± 0.5 volts with either switch open, and less than 0.5 volts with both
switches closed.
Vehicle wiring for an engine brake may affect operation of this circuit. For example, the switch to
turn the engine brake on may open this circuit (similar to turning the service brake on). Refer to the
service manual for the vehicle to determine how the engine brake is wired.
Both switches are OEM supplied. The brake switch is typically a pressure switch. The clutch switch
is typically a limit switch mounted near the clutch pedal. The clutch switch is usually adjustable.
Step 1. Check Brake Switch Status With ECAP Or DDT
B. Operate the service BRAKE pedal while observing status of the "Clutch/Brake Sw".
C. Operate the CLUTCH pedal while observing status of the "Clutch/Brake Sw".
Switch status should be "OFF" with both pedals released and "ON" with the either pedal
depressed. The clutch pedal should feel resistance before the clutch switch engages.
OK: The clutch and brake switches are operating normally. Stop.
NOT OK: Check adjustment of the clutch switch, then repeat this step. If the ECM is still not seeing
the switch status change, continue to next step.
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' to J2 (vehicle connector) (vehicle side only).
B. Using an ohmmeter, Measure the resistance from each switch output terminal (listed below) to J2
Pin G (- Battery). Operate each switch and measure the resistance with switch ON and OFF.
The resistances should be:
Brake and Clutch OFF (both pedals released)
J2 Pin G to J2 Pin B (-Battery) < 10 ohms
Brake ON (pedal depressed)
J2 Pin G to J2 Pin B (-Battery) > 10 K ohms
Clutch ON (pedal depressed)
J2 Pin G to J2 Pin B (-Battery) > 10 K ohms
OK: Vehicle wiring checks OK. If Step 1 found that the ECM is not seeing the switch status change,
then the ECM is getting the proper signals, but is not reading them correctly. Verify that the ECM is
receiving proper battery voltage. If so, replace the ECM. Stop.
P-216: Parking Brake Switch Test
The PARKING BRAKE switch is used only to enable the Idle Shutdown Timer. The idle shutdown
timer will only be activated when the parking brake is ON.
The parking brake switch is supplied by the OEM. It should be normally closed (with brake applied,
and no air pressure to the parking brake) and connected to ground. Releasing the brake should open
the circuit. The idle shutdown timer will NOT operate unless the switch is installed to connect the
parking brake input to ground.
The signal goes to the ECM through P1/J1 Pin D. Voltage at Pin D should be 5.0 ± 0.5 volts with the
switch open (parking brake released), and less than 0.5 volts with the switch closed (parking brake
applied).
Step 1. Check Switch Status With ECAP Or DDT
B. Operate the PARK BRAKE while observing status of the "Park Brake Sw".
Switch status should be "OFF" with the brake released and "ON" with the brake applied.
OK: The park brake switch is operating normally. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not seeing the switch status change. Continue to next step.
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' to P1 (diagnostic connector) (harness side only).
B. Using an ohmmeter, Measure the resistance from the switch output terminal (listed below) to J2
Pin B (- Battery). Operate the parking brake switch and measure the resistance with switch ON and
OFF.
The resistances should be as shown below
Parking Brake ON
Pin D (P1) to [(-Battery) Pin B (P2)] < 10 ohms
Parking Brake OFF
Pin D (P1) to [(-Battery) Pin B (P2)] > 10 ohms
OK: The switch harness checks OK. If Step 1 found that the ECM is not seeing the switch status
change, then the ECM is getting the proper signals, but is not reading them correctly. Verify that the
ECM is receiving proper battery voltage. If so, replace the ECM. Stop.
P-220: ECM/Personality Module Test

The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the computer which controls a PEEC engine. The
Personality Module is the software which controls how the computer behaves. The two must be used
together -neither can do anything by itself.
The Personality Module consists of:

* All of the software, or instructions, for the ECM to do its job. Because of this, updating the
Personality Module to a new version may cause the engine to behave in a different manner. The
section on Summary Of PEEC Personality Module Changes in this manual describes the changes
that have been made to the software.* Performance Maps, which define fuel rate, timing, etc. for
various operating conditions to achieve optimum performance while meeting emission requirements.
These are programmed at the factory only.* Logged Diagnostics (in modules produced since April
1989). PEEC may log certain diagnostic codes into this memory so that a permanent record of the
diagnostic is retained. Refer to the section Troubleshooting Diagnostic Codes, for further
information on logged codes.
The ECM consists of:

* A microprocessor, to perform the computing necessary to perform the ECM's functions
(governing, controlling timing, generating diagnostic codes, communicating with service tools, etc.).
The microprocessor gets its instructions from the software in the Personality Module.*
Programmable Parameters stored in permanent memory (both Customer Specified and System
Configuration Parameters). Refer to the section Programming PEEC Parameters for details on what
these parameters do.* Input Circuits, to filter electrical noise from sensor signals and to protect
sensitive internal circuits from potentially damaging voltage spikes.* Output Circuits, to provide the
high currents necessary to turn on lamps or solenoids as the microprocessor chooses.* Power
circuits, to provide clean stable electrical power to internal circuits and external sensors.
Step 1. Inspect Electrical Connectors And Wiring
Inspect all wiring and connectors coming in and out of the ECM for damage, corrosion, or incorrect
attachment. Repair any problems.
Step 2. Inspect The Personality Module Connector And Gasket.
A. Remove the Personality Module. Note gasket location and orientation while removing the
module.
B. Inspect the connector on the Personality Module and on the ECM for corrosion or damage.
C. Inspect the gasket to be sure that it was properly aligned when installed. Also check that the cork
shipping gasket was removed before previous assembly.
D. Re-install the module, or replace or repair as needed.
Step 3. Check Communication With ECAP or DDT
A. Install ECAP or DDT.
B. Read Customer Specified Parameters (see instructions for the service tool for details).
C. Read LOGGED Codes (if equipped with Personality Module built since May 1989).
D. Start the engine.
The ECAP/DDT should be able to read correct parameters, the hour meter for logged codes
should represent approximate operating time for the Personality Module, and the engine
should start and run normally.
OK: The Personality Module is OK. The microprocessor in the ECM is able to properly function
and read the memory in the ECM and Personality Module. The remainder of the ECM (input
circuits, output circuits, and sensor supply and reference voltage circuits) are to be tested
individually. If operational problems persist, refer to the procedure in this manual best describing the
symptoms. Stop.
NOT OK: * If the ECAP/DDT will not communicate with the ECM, refer to P-120: ECAP/DDT
will Not Communicate With PEEC.
* If the Customer Specified Parameters are not as expected, reprogram the parameters. Completely
scrambled parameters could mean the ECM is defective.* If the hour meter for logged codes is
scrambled or stuck at zero, or the logged codes are completely scrambled, the Personality Module
may be defective. Excessive voltage spikes in the vehicle electrical system may also cause scrambled
logged codes or hour meter reading. Locate the source of the electrical spike (engine brake relays,
cooling fan solenoids, and air conditioner compressors are common causes) and suppress the spike
with a diode across the relay or solenoid coil.* If the engine will not start, refer to P-102: Engine
Cranks But Will Not Start.
P-221: Sensor Supply Voltage Test

The PEEC ECM converts the battery voltage into 5V and 8V sensor supply voltages. These supply
voltages are used to supply power and reference voltages to the following sensors: rack, timing,
engine speed, boost pressure (in transducer module), and oil pressure (in transducer module). In
addition to using the sensor supply voltages for the boost and oil sensors, the transducer module has
internal connections which pass the sensor supply voltages on to the rack sensor and engine speed
sensor.
NOTE: A short anywhere on the 8 volt sensor supply circuit will cause loss of the engine speed
signal, which will result in an engine shutdown.
Check ECM/sensors (J3/P3) and transducer module (J5/P5), timing position sensor (J7/P7), rack
position sensor (J8/P8), and engine speed sensor (J9/P9) connectors and wiring between them, being
sure to:
Step 2. Check Supply Voltages At ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at J3 ONLY (sensors connector at ECM), leaving harness disconnected from
'T'.
C. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin H to Pin B) and the 5V reference voltage (Pin C to Pin
B).
The 8V sensor supply voltage should be 8.0 ± 0.4 VDC and the 5V reference voltage should be
5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: The ECM is supplying the correct voltages. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The ECM is NOT supplying the correct voltages. Refer to P-210: Electrical Power
Supply To PEEC test to verify that the ECM is getting battery voltage. If it is, replace the ECM.
Stop.
Step 3. Check For Components Shorting Supply Voltages
A. Connect the 9-pin 'T' to both J3 AND P3 (sensors connector at ECM)
B).
5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: There are no components shorting the supply or reference voltages. Continue to next Step 4.
NOT OK: A PEEC component is shorting either the 8V sensor supply voltage or the 5V reference
voltage. Disconnect the timing position sensor, transducer module, rack position sensor, engine
speed sensor and engine harness one at a time while monitoring the 8V sensor supply and 5V
reference voltages to determine which component is causing the short, and replace or repair that
component.
If one of the voltages drops no matter which component is connected, the voltage supplies in the
ECM may not be able to supply enough current. If so, replace the ECM. Stop.
Step 4. Check Supply Voltages To Transducer Module
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at transducer module connector (J5/P5).
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin H to Pin B) and the 5V reference voltage (Pin C to Pin
B).
5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: Supply voltages are OK to transducer. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Inspect connectors and wiring between ECM and transducer for damage or a broken
connection. Repair any problems. Stop.
Step 5. Check Supply Voltages To Rack Position Sensor
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at rack sensor connector (J8/P8).
C. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A) and 5V reference voltage (Pin C) with respect to
ground (Pin B).
The 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A) should be 8.0 ± 0.4 VDC and the 5V reference voltage
(Pin C) should be 5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: Supply voltages are OK to the rack sensor. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Supply voltages are making it to the transducer, but not through it. Replace the
transducer. Stop.
Step 6. Check Supply Voltages To Engine Speed Sensor
A. Connect a 3-pin 'T' at engine speed sensor connector (J9/P9).
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A to Pin B)
The 8V sensor supply voltage should be 8.0 ± 0.4 VDC
OK: Supply voltages are OK to the engine speed sensor. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Supply voltages are making it to the transducer, but not through it. Replace the transducer
module. Stop.
Step 7. Check Supply Voltages To Timing Position Sensor
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at timing sensor connector J7/P7).
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A to Pin B) and the 5V reference voltage (Pin C to Pin
B).
5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: Supply voltages are OK to all PEEC components. Stop.
NOT OK: Inspect connectors and wiring between ECM and timing sensor for damage or a broken
connection. Repair any problems. Stop.
P-222: Engine Speed Signal Test

The PEEC engine speed sensor determines engine speed by magnetically detecting the teeth on the
fuel pump camshaft retainer. PEEC will not try to start the engine (either energize the shutoff
solenoid or move the BTM until it senses an engine speed signal). Engine speed is determined by the
FREQUENCY, not the voltage, of the engine speed sensor output. The output frequency should be
between 0 and 460 Hz. The sensor is supplied with 8V from the ECM through the transducer
module.
Step 1. Inspect Electrical Connectors And Wiring
A. Check ECM/sensors (J3/P3) and transducer module (J5/P5) connectors and wiring between them,
being sure to:
* Inspect connectors for damage or corrosion. Refer to P-201: Inspecting Electrical

Connectors for details. Repair any damage, then continue with the next step.
B. Remove the rear cover from the governor.
C. Inspect engine speed sensor (J9/P9) and wiring for abrasion, damage, or incorrect attachment.
Repair any damage.
D. Remove engine speed sensor, and check sensing end of sensor for damage. Replace sensor if
damaged.
E. Reinstall the components removed in the previous steps.
Step 2. Engine Speed Signal Operational Test
Start the engine.
The engine should start and run smoothly.
OK: The engine speed signal is currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: * Will Not Start: Refer to procedure P-102: Engine Cranks But Will Not Start. If the
problem is still not found, continue to Step 3.
* Erratic RPM: Refer to procedure P-104: Erratic Or Unstable Engine RPM. If the problem is still
not found, continue to Step 3.
Step 3. Check Engine RPM Reading On ECAP/DDT
NOTE: Since vehicle battery voltage may dip momentarily below operating minimum for the ECM
and ECAP during cranking, electrical power may need to be supplied from an external isolated
source (such as a battery cart) for this step. Do not connect the OEM wiring to J2 Pins A and B as
shown in the Bypass Schematic shown in P-210.
Crank the engine while observing the "Engine RPM" reading on the "Display Status" screen of the
ECAP or DDT.
"Engine RPM" while cranking should show a steady reading between 100 and 500 rpm.
OK: The engine speed sensor is currently working correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not reading an engine speed signal. Continue to next step.
Step 4. Check Engine Speed Signal At ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at the ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3).
B. Connect the PWM probe at Pin A (engine speed) of the 'T'.
C. Remove engine speed signal wire from ECM (Pin A of J3).
D. Crank the engine and observe the frequency of the engine speed sensor signal. Refer to the
instructions included with the PWM probe (use the "Utility" function from the Main Menu, then
select "PWM Sensor").
E. Reinsert Wire A in J3.
The Frequency displayed on the ECAP or DDT should be between 10 and 50 Hz and steady
while cranking.
OK: The engine speed signal is reaching the ECM. If Step 3 showed that the ECM was not reading
the signal, the ECM is faulty. Replace the ECM. Stop.
NOT OK: The engine speed signal is not reaching the ECM. Continue to next step.
Step 5. Check Engine Speed Signal Through Transducer Module
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at the transducer module connector (J5/P5).
B. Remove engine speed signal wire from the engine harness (Pin A of J5).
C. Connect the PWM probe to Pin A (engine speed) of the 'T'.
D. Crank the engine and observe the frequency of the engine speed sensor output. Refer to the
instructions included with the PWM probe (use the utility function from the main menu, then select
"PWM sensor").
E. Reinsert Wire A in J5.
The frequency displayed on the ECAP or DDT should be between 10 and 50 Hz and steady
while cranking.
OK: The engine speed sensor is working, and its signal is getting through the transducer module but
not reaching the ECM. Check connections and the wiring between the ECM and transducer for
damage, corrosion, or incorrect attachment. Repair as needed. Stop.
NOT OK: Engine speed signal is not reaching the transducer module connector. Continue to the
next step.
Step 6. Check Sensor Supply Voltage At Engine Speed Sensor
A. Connect a 3-pin 'T' at (engine speed sensor connector J9/P9).
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A to Pin B of the 'T').
The voltage should be 8 ± 0.4 VDC.
OK: The engine speed sensor is receiving proper voltage. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The engine speed sensor is not getting proper supply voltage. Refer to P-221: Sensor
Supply Voltage Test. Stop.
Step 7. Check Engine Speed Sensor Operation
A. Connect the PWM probe at engine speed signal (Pin C) of the 'T'.
B. Remove engine speed signal wire from the transducer (Pin C of P9).
C. Crank the engine and observe the frequency of the engine speed signal. Refer to the instructions
included with the PWM probe (use the "Utility" function from the main menu, then select "PWM
Sensor").
E. Reinsert Wire C in P9.
The frequency displayed on the ECAP or DDT should be between 10 and 50 Hz and steady
while cranking.
OK: The engine speed sensor is OK, but the signal is not getting through the transducer module.
Check for damaged wires or connectors coming from the transducer. If no damage is found, replace
the transducer module. Stop.
NOT OK: The engine speed sensor is not generating a proper signal. Replace the sensor. Stop.
P-223: Shutoff Solenoid Test

Although the Rack Solenoid (BTM) is capable of shutting the engine down, the shutoff solenoid
provides a redundant means for PEEC to shut down the engine. When the solenoid receives a
voltage, the solenoid's plunger is pulled in to allow the engine to run. When the solenoid does not
receive voltage, the plunger will release and the engine will not run.
The shutoff solenoid should receive 6 to 12 VDC from the OEM crank relay during cranking,
through the "crank" input on the ECM [Pin C of vehicle connector (J2/P2)], but no voltage from the
crank relay while running. While the engine is running, the ECM supplies 1.5 to 2.5 VDC to the
shutoff solenoid.
Check shutoff solenoid connector (J11/P11) and ECM/solenoids connector (J4/P4) and wiring
between them, being sure to:
Step 2. Verify Proper Wiring Of The Crank Line
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' to vehicle connector (P2/J2).
B. Rotate the manual shutoff lever counterclockwise (CCW) to prevent the engine from starting.
C. Measure the voltage between the crank line (Pin C) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' while the engine
is stopped (key ON) and then while cranking.
The voltage should be less than 1 VDC with the engine stopped and greater than 6 VDC while
cranking.
BOTH Voltages OK: The crank relay is OK. Continue to next step.
EITHER Voltage NOT OK: Repair the OEM crank relay or its wiring, then continue to the next
step.
Step 3. Override Shutoff Solenoid Operation
A. Rotate the manual shutoff lever in the clockwise direction (CW) to override the shutoff solenoid.
B. Start the engine.
C. Release the manual shutoff lever.
The engine should have started, and should continue to run after the manual shutoff lever is
released.
OK: The shutoff solenoid appears to be working. Continue to next step.
NOT OK:*If the engine will still not start, the problem is NOT with the shutoff solenoid. Refer to P-
102: Engine Cranks But Will Not Start. Stop.
*If the engine starts but dies when manual lever is released, the shutoff solenoid is not working.
Proceed to Step 5.
Step 4. Verify That Shutoff Solenoid Can Shutdown Engine
A. Start engine.
B. Disconnect shutoff solenoid connector (J11/P11).
The engine should shutdown when the shutoff solenoid is disconnected.
OK: Shutoff solenoid is able to shutdown engine. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Shutoff solenoid IS NOT able to shutdown engine. Check for sticking solenoid plunger or
linkage. Then repeat this step.
Step 5. Measure Operating Voltage At Shutoff Solenoid
A. Connect a 3-pin 'T' at shutoff solenoid connector (J11/P11).
B. Rotate the manual shutoff lever in a clockwise (CW) direction to override the shutoff solenoid.
C. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temperature.
D. Measure the voltage between shutoff signal (Pin A) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' during cranking,
and while the engine is running.
The voltage should jump to over 4 volts during cranking and then stabilize at between 1.5 and
2.5 volts DC.
OK: The shutoff solenoid is currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: The shutoff solenoid is not getting proper voltage.
* If voltage is less than 1.5 VDC, replace the shutoff solenoid and retest. If voltage is still too low,
proceed to Step 6.
* If voltage is greater than 2.5 VDC, verify proper wiring of the crank line (refer to Step 2). If crank
line is OK, proceed to Step 6.
Step 6. Check Resistance Of Solenoid Coil
A. Disconnect shutoff solenoid.
B. Measure the resistance across the solenoid coil (Pin A to Pin B of J11).
The resistance should be between 1 and 2 ohms.
OK: The solenoid coil resistance is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The shutoff solenoid is defective. Replace the solenoid. Then repeat Step 5.
Step 7. Check For Solenoid Short To Case
A. Clean or remove paint from a portion of the solenoid case so that a solid electrical connection can
be made to the case.
B. Set the multimeter to measure resistance on the 2 Meg-ohm scale (2M).
C. Measure the resistance between the solenoid coil (Pin A of J11) and the solenoid case.
The resistance should be too high to measure. This is usually indicated by "OL" being
displayed on the multimeter.
OK: The solenoid is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The solenoid is shorted to the case. Replace the solenoid. Then repeat Step 5.
Step 8. Check Solenoid Voltage From ECM
A. Reconnect shutoff solenoid connector (J11 to P11).
B. Install a 5-pin 'T' at ECM/solenoids connector (J4/P4).
C. Start the engine.
D. Measure the shutoff solenoid voltage (Pin E to Pin B (ground) of the 'T') while the engine is
running.
The voltage should be between 1.5 and 2.5 VDC with the engine running.
OK: The ECM is supplying the correct voltages. Inspect the wiring harness between the ECM and
the shutoff solenoid for damage or a broken connection. Repair as needed. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not supplying the correct voltages to the solenoid. Replace the ECM. Stop.
P-224: Boost Pressure Sensor Test

The PEEC system monitors boost pressure with a sensor located in the transducer module. The boost
sensor is supplied with electrical power by the 8 volt sensor supply and 5 volt reference voltages
from the ECM. The sensor can only by replaced by replacing the transducer module.
The boost sensor is used to limit smoke emissions during acceleration. PEEC limits the amount of
fuel injected until certain boost pressures are reached. It does this by converting boost pressure to
"FRC RAck" (as shown on the ECAP status display). The FRC Rack (Fuel Ratio Control) is then a
limit on rack position based on boost pressure.
PEEC does NOT currently use an atmospheric pressure sensor, even though some transducer
modules are equipped with one. However, the inlet air hose from the air cleaner to the transducer
module MUST still be installed. It serves as a vent for the transducer module and is required for
proper operation of the boost pressure sensor.
Check transducer module connector (J5/P5) and ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3) and wiring between
Step 2. Visual Inspection
A. Verify that the boost and inlet air hoses are correctly installed (boost hose to top of intake
manifold, and inlet air hose to clean air side of air filter).
B. Inspect the hoses for cracks, leaks or other damage. Make any necessary repairs.
Step 3. Calibrate Boost Sensor
Refer to procedure P-305: Boost Pressure Sensor Calibration to calibrate the boost sensor. The
engine should be warmed up to operating temperature before calibration is performed.
The ECAP or DDT should indicate that the boost sensor was calibrated.
NOT OK: Boost sensor voltages are not within specified range. Proceed to Step 6.
Step 4. Boost Sensor Pressure Test
A. Disconnect the boost pressure and inlet air pressure lines from the transducer module.
B. Connect the FT1906 Fuel Ratio Control Pressure Kit to the boost pressure port on the transducer
module.
C. Observe the boost pressure display on the ECAP or DDT's Display Status Screen.
D. Close the pressure cock valve on the pressure test kit and apply 100 kPa (14.5 psi) to the boost
pressure port.
E. Compare the readings on the ECAP or DDT with pressure test kit.
The ECAP or DDT should show 0 kPa when no pressure is applied and agree within ± 7 kPa
(1.0 psi) of the test kit.
OK: Boost sensor appears to operate normally. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The ECM is not receiving a proper boost sensor signal. Reconnect boost and inlet air
hoses. Proceed to Step 6.
Step 5. Leakage Test
A. Close the pressure cock valve on the pressure test kit and again apply 100 kPa (14.5 psi) to the
boost pressure port.
B. Observe the boost pressure reading on the ECAP or DDT for 30 seconds before releasing the
pressure.
C. Disconnect the pressure kit and reconnect the boost and inlet air hoses.
The leakage rate should not exceed 20 kPa (3 psi) in 30 seconds.
OK: The Boost pressure sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: Check for leaks in the hose or the test kit. If none are found, there is an internal leak in
the transducer module. Replace the transducer module and calibrate the new boost sensor. Stop.
Step 6. Check Sensor Supply Voltage
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin H to Pin B), and the 5V reference voltage (Pin C to
Pin B).
5 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: Sensor is receiving proper supply voltage. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the supply voltage. Refer to procedure P-221: Sensor Supply
Voltage Test. Stop.
Step 7. Check Boost Pressure Signal At Transducer Module
A. Remove boost signal wire from the wiring harness connector (Wire E of J5) to isolate the boost
sensor from the wiring harness.
B. Measure the boost sensor signal voltage at Pin E of the 'T'.
C. Reinsert Wire E in J5.
The boost sensor signal voltage should be between 0.7 and 1.2 VDC.
OK: The boost sensor is working properly. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The boost pressure sensor is defective. Replace the sensor. Stop.
Step 8. Check Boost Pressure Signal At ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3).
B. Remove boost pressure signal wire from the ECM connector (Wire E of J3) to isolate the ECM
from the boost signal.
C. Measure the voltage between the boost pressure signal (Pin E) and ground (Pin B) of J3.
D. Reinsert Wire E in J3.
The boost pressure signal voltage should be between 0.7 and 1.2 VDC.
OK: The boost signal is good at the ECM. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the wiring harness between the transducer module and the ECM.
Inspect the wiring and connectors for damage or a broken connection. Repair as necessary. Stop.
Step 9. Check ECM
The previous step verified that a good boost signal is reaching the ECM.
The boost sensor should calibrate, display an accurate reading, and Diagnostic Code 25 should
NOT be ACTIVE.
OK: The boost sensor is currently working correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: Be sure the wires removed previously have been replaced. If so, the ECM is not reading
the boost signal. Replace the ECM.
P-225: Oil Pressure Sensor Test

The PEEC system monitors oil pressure with a sensor located in the transducer module. The oil
pressure sensor is supplied with electrical power by the 8 volt sensor supply and 5 volt reference
voltages from the ECM.
The oil pressure sensor can measure oil pressure from 0 kPa (0 psi) to 312 kPa (45 psi). Any pressure
greater than 312 kPa is displayed as 312 kPa. The oil pressure measured by PEEC is about 10 kPa
less than the gallery oil pressure.
After the engine has been running for ten seconds, PEEC will monitor oil pressure to ensure that it
stays above certain limits. When it drops below the limits, PEEC will limit engine speed to 1,350
rpm, and generate Code 46 (Low Oil Pressure Warning). These limits are in the procedure for
Diagnostic Code 46.
Note that PEEC uses the oil pressure only as an engine protection function. Lack of oil pressure does
not prevent PEEC from starting the engine. PEEC will still try to start the engine even if oil pressure
is low.
It is NOT NORMAL to get Diagnostic Code 24 with the key ON, engine OFF, or to read 310 kPa
(45 psi) with the key ON, engine OFF.
Check transducer module connector (J5/P5) and ECM/solenoids connector (J3/P3) and wiring
Step 2. Check Oil Level
Check engine oil level and check that correct dipstick is installed. Also look for fuel dilution of oil
and oil leaks. Correct any problems.
Step 3. Check ECAP Or DDT Display With Engine OFF
A. Turn key ON, engine OFF.
B. Observe the "Oil Press" reading on the ECAP or DDT's "Display Status" screen.
The ECAP should display 0 kPa (0 psi) for oil pressure when the engine is not running. (A
Diagnostic Code 46 may be shown with the engine not running. Only be concerned about a
Diagnostic Code 46 when the engine is running.)
OK: The sensor appears to be operating normally. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The sensor is reading pressure where none exists. Proceed to Step 6.
Step 4. Check Pressure With Engine Running
A. Start the engine.
B. Observe ECAP/DDT Status Screen and monitor "Oil Press".
Pressure should exceed 35 kPa (5 psi) within five seconds and fall within the "Acceptable
Region" given on the Engine Oil Pressure Graph.
OK: The sensor appears to be operating normally. Stop.
NOT OK: Turn the engine OFF. Continue to Step 5.
Engine Oil Pressure Graph
Step 5. Check Actual Oil Pressure
A. Install the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group to measure engine oil pressure (fitting at the camshaft
bearing at the left rear corner of the engine block).
B. Start the engine and run at low idle. If after five seconds the oil pressure does not exceed 35 kPa
(5 psi), shut off the engine.
C. Push the throttle to the high idle position.
D. Check for oil leakage. Repair any leaks.
E. Compare the engine oil pressure to the acceptable range of oil pressure on the ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE GRAPH.
The engine oil pressure reading on the Engine Pressure Group should exceed 35 kPa (5 psi)
after five seconds and fall within the "Acceptable Region" given on the ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE GRAPH.
OK: Actual oil pressure is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the engine oil pressure. Refer to 3406B PEEC Diesel Truck
Engine, Systems Operation Testing and Adjusting, Form No. SENR3485.
Step 6. Compare ECAP Display With 1U5470 Reading
A. Start engine and wait until oil pressure builds to at least 35 kPa (5 psi).
B. Vary the engine speed. Compare the oil pressure reading on the "Display Status" screen of the
ECAP or DDT with the reading given by the 1U5470.
NOTE: The maximum oil pressure measured by PEEC is 312 kPa (45 psi). Engine oil pressure
greater than 312 kPa is shown as 312 kPa. PEEC will measure about 10 kPa lower pressures than the
1U5470 pressure group due to pressure losses between the main oil pressure gallery and the fuel
injection pump.
The oil pressure readings on the ECAP should be about 10 kPa less than the readings on the
1U5470.
OK: The oil pressure sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: The sensor is not reading oil pressure correctly. Continue to the next step.
Step 7. Check Supply Voltage To Transducer Module
B. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at J5/P5.
B).
5.0 ± 0.25 VDC.
OK: Voltage supply is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the voltage supply to the transducer module. Refer to P-221:
Sensor Supply Voltage Test. Stop.
Step 8. Check Sensor Output
A. Remove oil pressure signal wire from the harness connector (Wire G of J5) to isolate signal.
B. Measure the oil pressure signal (Pin G to Pin B) of the 'T' with the engine not running (key ON),
and with the engine running at 600 and at 1350 rpm.
C. Compare the measured voltages with the minimum sensor outputs given in Table A.
D. Reinsert Wire G in J5.
The oil pressure signal voltages should all be greater than the minimum values given in Table
A.
OK: The oil pressure sensor is OK. Continue to the next step.
NOT OK: The oil pressure sensor is defective. Replace the transducer module and recalibrate the
Boost Sensor. Stop.
Step 9. Check Oil Pressure Signal At ECM
A. Remove oil pressure signal wire from the ECM connector (Wire G of J3).
B. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3).
C. Measure the oil pressure signal voltage (Pin G to Pin B) of the 'T' with the engine not running
(key ON), at 600 rpm, and at 1350 rpm.
D. Compare the measured voltages with the minimum sensor outputs given in Table A.
E. Reinsert Wire G in J3.
The oil pressure signal voltages should all be greater than the minimum values given in Table
A.
OK: Oil pressure signal is reaching the ECM. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the harness between the transducer module and the ECM. Inspect
the wiring harness and connectors for damage or a broken connection. Stop.
Step 10. Check ECM
A. Check that the wires removed in previous steps have been reinserted.
B. Start the engine and wait for proper oil pressure to build.
C. Check to see if Diagnostic Code 24 OR 46 is ACTIVE with the engine running.
Neither code ACTIVE: The oil pressure sensor and ECM are currently operating correctly. Stop.
Either code ACTIVE: The oil pressure signal is reaching the ECM but the ECM is not reading it.
Replace the ECM. Stop.
P-230: Dynamic Rack Controls Test

The primary function of the PEEC system is to electronically govern the engine. The PEEC governor
senses engine speed (using the Engine Speed Sensor on the fuel pump camshaft), then controls the
fuel rack to achieve a desired rpm. This test is used to determine if the PEEC governor is properly
controlling the fuel rack.
Because this test requires monitoring several internal PEEC variables, the ECAP should be used
rather than the DDT. The variables displayed on the ECAP "Status Display" which are used in this
test are:
*Desired RPM
The rpm that the PEEC governor is trying to maintain. It is based on throttle position, engine speed,
vehicle speed, Customer Specified Parameters, and certain diagnostic codes. *Desired Rack
The position where the ECM wants to move the rack, based on the PEEC governor trying to
maintain "Desired RPM". "Desired Rack" will not go farther than the "FRC Rack" or "Rated Rack".
*Actual Rack
The ECM's interpretation of the Rack Position Sensor signal represents actual position of the rack,
assuming the sensor signal is valid. If the rack controls (solenoid, servo, sensor, etc.) are working
properly, "Actual Rack" should follow "Desired Rack". *FRC Rack
The rack limit based on the Fuel-Air-Ratio Control (FRC). FRC Rack increases with boost pressure
(as sensed by the Boost Sensor in the Transducer Module). This effectively limits the fuel injected
into the cylinders until there is enough air present in the cylinders (as indicated by boost pressure) to
cleanly burn the fuel. "Desired Rack" will never go past "FRC Rack". *Rated Rack
The rack limit which defines the horsepower and torque curves for the engine based on engine rpm.
This limit is derived from maps programmed into the Personality Module by the factory.
Step 1. Verify Normal Rack Operation At Idle
A. Start the engine.
B. Monitor Desired RPM, Desired Rack, and Actual Rack on the ECAP "Status Display".
Desired RPM should be equal to the programmed Low Idle RPM and steady. The Actual Rack
should follow Desired Rack within ± .5mm (Note that the lag in the ECAP "Status Display"
causes some normal differences between the two readings). For a typical engine idling with
normal accessory loads, both readings should be around 4.50 mm to 5.25 mm.
OK: PEEC is able to control the rack properly at idle. Continue with Step 2.
NOT OK: * If desired RPM is too high or unstable, follow P-211: Throttle Position Sensor Test.
Stop.
* If the rack readings are not as specified, follow P-231: Rack Position Sensor Test, and P-232: Rack
Solenoid (BTM) Test. Stop.
Step 2. Verify Normal Rack Operation Under Load
A. Load the engine, using either a dynomometer or a vehicle road test.
B. Monitor Desired Rack, Rated Rack, and FRC Rack.
Desired Rack should reach Rated Rack with the engine fully loaded.
OK: If the Rack Position Sensor is calibrated (refer to P-303: Rack Position Sensor Calibration),
then PEEC is moving the rack to the specified position as it should. If problems persist, the cause IS
NOT the rack controls. Refer to the procedure best describing the symptom. Otherwise, Stop.
NOT OK: * If Desired Rack is limited to FRC Rack, PEEC is sensing low boost pressure. Check for
problems in the air intake system, then follow P-224: Boost Pressure Sensor Test.
* If Desired Rack is limited to some other value below Rated Rack, PEEC is intentionally limiting
power or rpm for some reason. Refer to P-107: Low Power/Engine RPM Restricted/Will Not Reach
VSL, to determine why. Stop.
P-231: Rack Position Sensor Test

The rack position sensor is magnetically attached to the fuel rack. The sensor is supplied with 8.0
volts for operation, and uses 5.0 volts for sensor reference. The signal output of 0.3 volts to 5.25
volts is read by the ECM as rack position of 0 to 16.5 mm [1990 and previous (8TC) engines], or 0
to 17.5 mm [1991 and subsequent (2EK) engines], and 0 to 17.5 mm for the 460 hp (5YG) engines.
A. Check transducer module connector (J5/P5), and ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3) and wiring

B. Remove the rear cover from the governor.
C. Inspect rack sensor connector (J8/P8) and wiring for damage or incorrect attachment. Repair any
damage. All wires in governor should be covered by protective sheathing.
Step 2. Check Rack Sensor Calibration
Refer to procedure P-303: Rack Position Sensor Calibration to check the rack sensor calibration.
Recalibrate if needed. If sensor is unable to calibrate, proceed to Step 4.
Step 3. Check Rack Position Reading On ECAP Or DDT
A. Remove the Rack Solenoid (BTM).
C. Move the rack back and forth by hand and observe the "Rack Pos" reading on the ECAP or DDT's
"Display Status" screen. The manual shutoff lever may have to be rotated clockwise to free up the
rack.
The reading on the ECAP or DDT should be about 0.4 to 1.1 mm in the FUEL OFF position
and increase to about 14.0 to 17.5 mm in the full FUEL ON position.
OK: The rack sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.
Step 4. Check Voltage Supply To Rack Sensor
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at rack sensor connector (J8/P8).
B. Measure the 8V sensor supply voltage (Pin A to Pin B). and the 5V reference voltage (Pin C to
Pin B).
The 8V sensor supply voltage should be 8 ± 0.4 VDC and the 5V reference voltage should be 5
± 0.25 VDC.
OK: The sensor is receiving the proper supply voltages. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: There is a problem with the sensor supply voltage. Refer to P-221: Sensor Supply
Voltage Test to troubleshoot.
Step 5. Check Rack Signal At Rack Sensor Connector
A. With the 5-pin 'T' still at the rack sensor connector (J8/P8), remove the rack signal wire from the
transducer side (Pin D of J8).
B. Measure the rack signal voltage (Pin D to Pin B) of the 'T' while moving the rack back and forth
by hand.
C. Reinsert Wire D in J8.
The voltage should be less than 2.0 VDC in the FUEL OFF position and smoothly increase to
more than 4.0 VDC when the rack is moved all the way to FUEL ON.
OK: Rack sensor is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Rack sensor is not operating properly. Verify that the sensor plunger is in contact with the
rack magnet, and that the epoxy on the magnet is in place. If so, replace the rack position sensor.
Stop.
Step 6. Check Rack Signal At Transducer Module Connecto
B. Remove rack signal wire from connector (J5) (harness side).
C. Measure the rack signal voltage (Pin D to Pin B) of the 'T' while moving the rack back and forth
by hand.
D. Reinsert Wire D in J5, remove the 'T', and reconnect transducer module connector (J5/P5).
more than 4.0 VDC when the rack is moved all the way into the FUEL ON range.
OK: The rack signal is getting through the transducer module. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The rack signal is NOT getting through the transducer module. Check for damage in the
connectors and wiring coming out of the transducer module. If none is found, replace the transducer
module. Stop.
Step 7. Check Rack Signal At ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3).
B. Remove rack signal wire from ECM connector (Wire D of J3).
C. Measure the voltage between rack signal voltage (Pin D) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' while
moving the rack back and forth by hand.
D. Reinsert Wire D in J3.
more than 4.0 VDC when the rack is moved all the way into the FUEL ON range.
OK: The rack signal is reaching the ECM. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: The rack signal is NOT reaching the ECM. Inspect the wiring harness and connectors for
damage or broken connection between the transducer and the ECM. Stop.
Step 8. Check ECM
A. Repeat Step 3 to determine if the ECM is reading the rack signal.
The ECAP or DDT should show a valid rack position and Diagnostic Code 22 should NOT BE
ACTIVE.
OK: The rack position sensor circuit is currently working correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not reading the rack signal. Recheck wires exiting the ECM to J3 for damage
and repair as needed. If no damage is found, replace the ECM. Stop.
P-232: Rack Solenoid (BTM) Test

The Rack Solenoid [or brushless torque motor (BTM)] is used to move the engine's fuel rack. The
BTM is spring-actuated to the FUEL OFF position. The BTM will move into the Fuel ON range
when a voltage is applied.
Check rack BTM connector (J10/P10) and ECM/solenoids connector (J4/P4) and wiring between
* inspect wiring for damage or abrasion.
* inspect connectors for damage or corrosion. Refer to P-201: Inspecting Electrical Connectors for
Step 2. Remove And Inspect Rack Solenoid (BTM)
A. Remove the Rack Solenoid (BTM).
B. Check rack and rack servo for sticking or binding.
C. Inspect the BTM arm for damage, and for signs of binding in the rack servo sleeve.
The BTM arm should not be loose, and should encounter resistance from the spring as it is moved.
NOT OK: Replace BTM if arm is damaged. Stop.
Step 3. Rack Solenoid (BTM) Sweep Test
B. Turn cruise control ON/OFF switch to ON.
C. Hold the cruise control SET/RESUME switch to the SET position and release after 1 second.
After a few seconds, the BTM arm should begin to sweep smoothly clockwise. Once it moves
slightly past the dot on the BTM face plate, it should pause briefly, and then sweep back to the
OFF stop.
OK: The rack BTM is currently operating properly. Stop.
NOT OK: Proceed to next step.
Step 4. Check BTM Resistance
A. Connect P10 (rack BTM side only) to a 3-pin 'T'.
B. Measure the resistance between BTM solenoid (Pin A) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T'.
OK: BTM resistance is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: BTM is defective. Replace BTM. Stop.
Step 5. Check Voltage To BTM During Sweep Test
A. Connect a 3-pin 'T' at rack solenoid (BTM) Connecter (J10/P10).
B. Measure the voltage between BTM solenoid (Pin A) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T'.
C. Turn cruise control ON/OFF switch to ON.
D. Hold and release the SET switch to begin the sweep test.
The voltage should begin at zero, increase to 3.6 ± 0.3 VDC and then decrease to zero VDC.
OK: The BTM is receiving voltage but is not moving. Replace the BTM. Stop.
NOT OK: The BTM is not receiving the proper voltages. Continue to next step.
Step 6. Check Voltage From ECM During Sweep Test
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at ECM/solenoids connector (J4/P4).
B. Measure the voltage between rack solenoid (BTM) signal (Pins C) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T'.
D. Hold and release the SET switch to begin the sweep test.
The voltage should begin at zero, increase to 3.6 ± 0.3 VDC and then decrease to zero VDC.
OK: The ECM is supplying proper voltages, but the BTM is not receiving them. Inspect the wiring
and connectors between J10/P10 and J4/P4 for damage or a broken connection. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not supplying the proper voltages. Verify that the ECM is getting battery
power (P-210) and use the ECAP or DDT to verify that the cruise control switches are functioning
properly (P-214). If they are OK, there is a problem with the ECM. Replace the ECM. Stop.
P-240: Dynamic Injection Timing Test

Besides governing the engine, PEEC also controls fuel injection timing to optimize performance and
emissions. This test is used to determine if PEEC is controlling timing properly.
The amount of timing advance that PEEC desires is controlled by software in the Personality
Module, and is dependent upon rpm, load, and other operating conditions. To control timing, PEEC
increases voltage to the timing solenoid (BTM) to increase advance until it senses that actual timing
advance is in the desired position.
The following are internal PEEC variables related to the injection timing which can be monitored on
the ECAP status display:
* Static Timing Specification
Fixed number of degrees determined by design of the fuel pump camshaft (determines injection
timing with no advance). Note that the value displayed is the specification for static timing, NOT an
electrically measured value. To determine whether static timing is actually adjusted according to this
specification, refer to P-301, Static Injection Timing Adjustment By Pin Method. * Desired Timing
Advance
Degrees of advance beyond static that PEEC desires. It is a function of rpm, load, etc. to optimize
performance and emissions. * Estimated Dynamic Timing
Estimated actual injection timing. Calculated internally by PEEC.
Est. Dyn Timing = Static Timing Spec + Actual Timing Advance + Port effect (.2 deg/100 rpm). *
Actual Timing Advance
Degrees of advance beyond static, as measured by the timing position sensor (assumes that the
timing position sensor is properly calibrated).
Step 1. Verify that "Actual" follows "Desired" Timing
A. Turn the engine OFF at the ignition switch.
B. Disconnect the Diagnostics Connector (J1/P1)(short connector) from the truck wiring harness and
connect the ECAP.
C. Start the engine and run at low idle until the engine has warmed up enough to switch out of cold
mode operation. Cruise control ON/OFF switch should be in the OFF position.
D. Select the Status Mode from the main menu on the ECAP service tool that displays timing
advance, desired timing advance, static timing specification, and estimated dynamic timing. See
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8741 for more information on the procedure to select the status
screen.
E. Operate the engine at several different speeds. Record the difference between "Actual Timing
Adv" and "Desired Timing Adv" displayed on the ECAP, after the engine speed stabilizes.
"Actual Timing Adv" should be within ± 0.30 degrees from "Desired Timing Adv"
OK: The timing advance mechanism is working properly.
NOT OK: The timing advance mechanism is NOT working properly. Follow P-241 to troubleshoot
the Timing Position Sensor and P-242 to troubleshoot the Timing Solenoid (BTM). Also verify that
the timing advance is not sticking or binding. Stop.
Step 2. Verify Actual Timing
Transducer In Position
(1) Injection transducer. (2) Fuel injection line for No. 6 cylinder.
A. Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for the correct installation and
operation of the 8T5300 Engine Timing Indicator Group. Install the injection transducer adapter and
injection transducer in either fuel line number 1 or number 6 at the fuel injection pump. Install the
TDC indicator in the flywheel housing and connect the cables to the Engine Timing Indicator and
perform a calibration check as given in the Special Instruction.
Transducer In Position
(3) TDC magnetic transducer.
B. Use the Cruise Control Switches and run the engine at several different speeds in the PTO mode
control. Make a record of the "Estimated Dynamic Timing" displayed on the ECAP and the timing
angle displayed on the Engine Timing Indicator after the engine speed stabilizes.
The Estimated Dynamic Timing reading displayed on the ECAP should be equal to the timing
angle reading displayed on the Engine Timing Indicator within ± 2.50 degrees.
OK: The timing advance actuator and timing position sensor are working correctly and the static
injection timing is correctly set. Stop.
NOT OK: Follow P-301: Static Injection Timing Adjustment By Pin Method to set the static fuel
injection timing, and P-302: Timing Position Sensor Calibration to calibrate the timing sensor.
Repeat Step 2 after checking and adjusting the timing.
P-241: Timing Position Sensor Test

The PEEC engine timing advance is measured by the timing position sensor. The sensor measures
the movement of the timing bellcrank. Note that the bellcrank moves with the actual timing advance,
not just the timing advance servo spool. The sensor is supplied with an 8V supply voltage and 5V
reference voltage from the ECM. The sensor's output ranges from 0.3 to 5.25 VDC which represents
a timing advance of 0 - 35 Degrees.
A. Remove the timing advance inspection cover to gain access to the timing position sensor.
B. Check the timing sensor connector (J7/P7) and ECM/sensors connector (J3/P3) and wiring
* Inspect wiring for damage or abrasion against inspection cover.

Step 2. Check Timing Sensor Calibration
Refer to procedure P-302: Timing Position Sensor Calibration to check timing sensor calibration.
Recalibrate if needed.
If sensor is unable to calibrate, proceed to Step 4.
Step 3. Check Timing Position Reading On ECAP Or DDT
A. Remove the timing solenoid for access.
C. Reaching into the timing solenoid mounting hole, move the sensor plunger downward (toward
advance) by pulling forward on the vertical arm of the bellcrank.
D. Observe the "Timing Adv" reading on the ECAP or DDT's "Display Status" screen.
NOTE: Some force is required to overcome the spring acting on the bellcrank. If this method is too
difficult, it may be necessary to remove the sensor for testing. The sensor must then be calibrated
after it is reinstalled.
The reading on the ECAP or DDT should be less than 0.2 Deg with the bellcrank at rest
(sensor plunger in), and greater than 15 Deg with the bellcrank rotated (sensor plunger
extended).
OK: The timing sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.
Step 4. Check Voltage Supply To Timing Sensor
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at timing sensor connector (J7/P7).
B. Measure the 8 V sensor supply voltage between (Pin A) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' at J7/P7.
B. Measure the 5 V reference voltage between (Pin C) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' at J7/P7.
The 8 V sensor supply should be 8 ± 0.4 VDC and the 5 V reference voltage should be 5 ± 0.25
VDC.
OK: The sensor is receiving the proper supply voltages. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Follow procedure P-221: Sensor Supply Voltage Test, to troubleshoot the sensor supply
voltage.
Step 5. Check Timing Sensor Operation
A. Remove timing signal wire (Pin E) from J7 (harness side).
B. Remove the timing solenoid.
C. Turn key ON, engine OFF.
D. Reaching into the timing solenoid mounting hole, move the sensor plunger OUT (by pushing the
plunger down) while measuring the timing signal voltage (Pin E to Pin B).
The voltage should be less than 0.5 VDC when sensor is pushed in (timing retarded) and
smoothly increase to more than 4.0 VDC when extended (timing advanced).
C. Re-insert Wire E in J7.
OK: Timing sensor is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: Timing sensor is not operating properly. Replace the timing position sensor.
Step 6. Check Timing Signal Coming To ECM
A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at J3/P3 (ECM/sensors connector).
B. Remove the timing signal wire (Pin J) from J3 (ECM side).
C. Measure the voltage between timing signal wire (Pin J) and ground (Pin B) of the 'T' while
moving the sensor plunger by hand.
The voltage should be less than 0.5 VDC when sensor is pushed in (timing retarded) and
smoothly increase to more than 4.0 VDC when extended (timing advanced).
D. Reinsert Wire J in J3.
OK: The timing signal is good coming to the ECM. Continue to the next step.
NOT OK: Inspect the wiring harness and connectors for damage or a broken connection between
ECM and the timing sensor. Stop.
Step 7. Check ECM
A. Repeat Step 3 to determine if the ECM is reading the timing signal.
The ECAP or DDT should show a valid timing advance and Diagnostic Code 23 should not be
ACTIVE.
OK: The timing position sensor circuit is currently working correctly. Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is receiving the timing signal, but is not reading it properly. Recheck wires
exiting the ECM to J3 for damage. If none is found, replace the ECM. Stop.
P-242: Timing Solenoid (BTM) Test

The timing solenoid (or brushless torque motor [BTM]) is used to move the spool which advances
and retards timing. The BTM is spring-actuated to the retarded position. The BTM will move into
the advanced range when a voltage is applied.
A. Remove the timing advance inspection cover to gain access to the timing position sensor.
B. Check the timing solenoid (BTM) connector (J6/P6) and ECM/solenoids connector (J4/P4) and
wiring between them, being sure to:

Step 2. Remove And Inspect Timing BTM
A. Remove the timing BTM.
B. Inspect the BTM arm for damage.
The BTM arm should not be loose and should have resistance from the spring as it is moved
toward the dot on the BTM face plate.
NOT OK: Replace BTM if arm is damaged. Stop.
Step 3. Timing Solenoid (BTM) Sweep Test
B. Turn cruise control ON/OFF switch to ON.
C. Hold the cruise control SET/RESUME switch to the RESUME position and release after 1
second.
After a few seconds, the BTM arm should begin to sweep smoothly clockwise. Once it moves
slightly past the dot on the BTM face plate, it should pause briefly, and then sweep back to the
OFF stop.
OK: The timing BTM is currently operating correctly. Stop.
Step 4. Check BTM Resistance
A. Connect P6 (timing BTM side only) to a 3-pin 'T'.
B. Measure the resistance of the BTM (Pin A to Pin B) of the 'T'.
OK: BTM resistance is OK. Continue to next step.
NOT OK: BTM is defective. Replace BTM. Stop.
Step 5. Check Voltage To BTM During Sweep Test
A. Connect J6 and P6 to the 3-pin 'T'.
B. Measure the voltage to the BTM (Pin A to Pin B of the 'T').
D. Hold and release the RESUME switch to begin the sweep test.
The voltage should begin at zero, increase to 3.6 ± 0.3 VDC and then decrease to 0 VDC again.
OK: The BTM is receiving voltage but is not moving. Replace the BTM. Stop.
NOT OK: The BTM is not receiving the proper voltage. Continue to the next step.
Step 6. Check Voltage From ECM During Sweep Test
A. Connect a 5-pin 'T' at J4/P4 (solenoids connector) at ECM.
B. Measure the voltage going to the timing BTM (Pin D to Pin B of the 'T').
D. Hold and release the RESUME switch to begin the sweep test.
The voltage should begin at zero, increase to 3.6 ± 0.3 VDC and then decrease to zero volts DC.
OK: The ECM is supplying proper voltages but the BTM is not receiving them. Inspect the wiring
and harness connectors between the ECM and the timing BTM for damage or a broken connection.
Stop.
NOT OK: The ECM is not supplying the proper voltages. Verify that the ECM is getting battery
power (P-210), and use the ECAP or DDT to check that the cruise control switches are functioning
properly (see P-214). If they are OK, there is a problem in the ECM. Replace the ECM. Stop.
P-250: Idle Shutdown Timer Test
The idle shutdown timer is a feature which helps improve fuel consumption by limiting idling time.
It is available on engines equipped with personality modules built since April 1989. The timer may
be programmed to shut down the idling engine after a period of time. This "shutdown time" is a
Customer Specified Parameter, and may be programmed for any period from three to sixty minutes.
Programming the time to zero disables the idle shutdown timer.
The timer is activated when the parking brake is set, vehicle speed is zero, and the engine is not
under load. Ninety (90) seconds before the programmed time is reached, the diagnostic lamp will
begin to flash rapidly. If the driver moves the clutch pedal or brake pedal during this 90 second
period, the timer will be overridden until it is reset. On newer engines (those equipped with a
Personality Module produced since May 1990), a Diagnostic Code 01 will be set when the driver
overrides the timer using the clutch or brake.
If the timer is activated, and is allowed to shut down the engine, then a code 47 will be set. Both 01
and 47 merely record the event, and do not indicate a fault in PEEC.
NOTE: If any of the following codes are ACTIVE, the idle shutdown timer WILL NOT OPERATE:
*Diagnostic Code 31 (Loss of Vehicle Speed Signal)*Diagnostic Code 36 (Vehicle Speed Signal
Out of Range)*Diagnostic Code 57 (Parking Brake Fault)
Follow the procedure indicated under the affected code, and correct that problem before attempting
the test the idle shutdown timer.
Step 1. Verify Activation Of Idle Shutdown Timer
A. Install the ECAP or DDT.
B. Record the programmed idle shutdown time (must be between 3 and 60 minutes. If programmed
to 0, timer is disabled).
C. Start the engine and verify that it is out of Cold Mode.
D. Set the parking brake.
E. Observe "Idle Shutdown" status on the ECAP or DDT.
With vehicle not moving and no load on the engine, "Idle Shutdown" status should change
from "NOT ACTIVE" to "COUNTING".
OK: The ECM is seeing the proper conditions to activate the idle shutdown timer. Continue with
next step.
NOT OK: The ECM is not seeing the proper conditions to activate the timer. Check the following:
*P-216: Parking Brake Switch Test*P-213: Vehicle Speed Signal Test*P-303: Rack Sensor
Calibration.
Then repeat Step 1.
Step 2. Verify Driver Alert And Override
A. Repeat Step 1 above to activate the idle shutdown timer.
B. Observe the diagnostic lamp and the "Idle Shutdown" status during the ninety second period
before the programmed shutdown time.
C. During the last ninety seconds, press either the service brake or clutch pedal to override the
shutdown.
Ninety seconds before the scheduled shutdown, the status should change from "COUNTING"
to "DRIVER ALERT", and the diagnostic lamp should begin flashing rapidly. After pressing
the service brake or clutch pedal, the status should change to "OVERRIDDEN".
OK: The idle shutdown timer is operating normally. Stop.
NOT OK: If the diagnostic lamp is not flashing during the alert, refer to P-212: Diagnostic Lamp
Test. If the ECM did not sense a change in clutch or brake status, refer to P-215: Service Brake And
Clutch Switch Test. Then repeat this step.
P-251: Multi-Torque Test:

Multi-Torque is an optional feature available for certain PEEC engines. The feature is available only
in certain Personality Modules. Refer to the section, Summary Of PEEC Personality Module
Changes, to see which Personality Module part numbers have Multi-Torque.
310 Multi-Torque
The 310 Multi-Torque provides an otherwise standard 310 hp PEEC engine with two different torque
curves. In all gears except top gear, the engine performs as a standard 310 hp PEEC. In the top gear,
however, the engine is provided with the torque of a standard 310 hp at 1800 rpm, but with the peak
torque of a 350 hp at 1150 rpm (see Illustration A).
PEEC determines whether the vehicle is in top gear by sensing the ratio of engine speed to road
speed. If the ratio of engine speed/vehicle speed is less than 26.6, Multi-Torque is in effect. If it is
greater than 26.6, the engine will perform like a standard 310 hp PEEC.
350 Multi-Torque
The 350 Multi-Torque works just like the 310 Multi-Torque, except for two key differences. First,
The Multi-Torque curve provides the engine with the standard 350 hp torque at 1800 rpm, and with
the peak torque of a 400 hp at 1200 rpm (see Illustration B). Second, the Multi-Torque is in effect in
the top two gears, when the ratio of engine speed/vehicle speed is less than 37.6, Multi-Torque is in
effect. If it is greater than 37.6, the engine will perform like a standard 350 hp PEEC.
Step 1. Repair Any Other Problems First
If there are other complaints or symptoms, refer to the procedure best describing the symptoms.
Step 2. Verify Proper Personality Module
Refer to the section, Summary Of PEEC Personality Module Changes, to verify that the part number
stamped on the Personality Module is one which contains Multi-Torque.
Step 3. Verify Change In Rated Rack
A. Install vehicle on dyno or take for a road test.
B. Operate the vehicle in lower gears at around 1200 rpm (a load is not required).
C. On the ECAP "Status Display", read and record "Rated Rack".
D. Operate vehicle in top gear at 1200 rpm, and again read and record "Rated Rack".
Rated Rack in top gear should be at least 0.5 mm greater than the Rated Rack in the lower
gears.
OK: Multi-Torque is working properly.
NOT OK: Verify that vehicle specifications are compatible with Multi-Torque. The ratio of engine
rpm/vehicle mph should be less than 26.6 in top gear (engine rpm should be less than 1600 rpm at 60
mph in top gear to be compatible with Multi-Torque). If they are, check vehicle speed signal using
P-213: Vehicle Speed Signal Test.
Illustration A. 3406B PEEC 310 Multi-Torque Lug Curve
Illustration B. 3406B PEEC 350 Multi-Torque Lug Curve
P-252: Power Demand Cruise Control

Power Demand Cruise Control (PDCC) is an optional feature available for certain PEEC engines
installed in Navistar Chassis. Refer to section, Summary Of PEEC Personality Module Changes, to
see which Personality Modules have PDCC. PDCC is only compatible with certain drive trains in
certain Navistar chassis. Refer to sales information for compatibility.
PDCC provides an otherwise standard 310 hp PEEC engine with special torque curves. In normal
operation (not in cruise), the engine performs as a standard 310 hp engine, except that torque is
limited in deep lug (below 1100 rpm) in top gear due to drive train limitations. In cruise mode, the
engine has the standard 310 hp torque at 1800 rpm, but has the peak torque of a 350 hp engine at
1150 rpm. Again, torque is limited in top gear while in deep lug due to drive train limitations (see
Illustration A).
Illustration A. 3406B PEEC Power Demand Cruise Control Lug Curves
Step 1. Repair Any Other Problems First
If there are any other complaints or symptoms, refer to the procedure best describing the symptom.
Step 2. Verify Proper Personality Module
Refer to the section, Summary Of PEEC Personality Module Changes, to verify that the part number
stamped on the Personality Module is one which contains PDCC.
Step 3. Verify Change In Rated Rack
A. Install vehicle on dyno or take for a road test.
B. Operate the vehicle in upper gears at around 1200 rpm with cruise OFF (a load is not required).
C. On the ECAP "Status Display", read and record "Rated Rack".
D. Operate vehicle in cruise control mode (turn CRUISE ON/OFF switch to ON, press and release
SET switch), and again read and record "Rated Rack".
Rated Rack in cruise mode should be at least 0.5 mm greater than the Rated Rack when not in
cruise.
OK: PDCC is working properly. Stop.
NOT OK: Verify cruise operation (cruise mode must be active, not just cruise switch ON). If cruise
does not operate properly, see P-108 Cruise or PTO Does Not Function.
Copyright 1993 - 2016 Caterpillar Inc. Wed Aug 17 08:52:53 UTC+0700 2016
All Rights Reserved.
Private Network For SIS Licensees.

PEEC Electronic System Functional Tests

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PEEC Electronic System Functional Tests

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PEEC Electronic System Functional Tests

P-201: Inspecting Electrical Connectors

1. Check connector lock ring.

2. Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin/wire.

3. Visually inspect wiring.

4. Visually inspect connectors.

pins in the connector.

5. Check individual pins and sockets.

P-210: Electrical Power Supply To PEEC Test

Step 1. Check Electrical Connectors And Wiring

* Check Connector lock rings.

* Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin or wire.

* Inspect wiring for damage or abrasion.

Step 2. Check Battery Voltage Coming To ECM

A. Connect a 9-pin 'T' at the ECM vehicle connector (J2/P2).

B. Turn key ON, engine OFF.

The voltage at Pin A should be between 11.5 and 13.5 VDC.

Step 3. Check Batteries

A. Measure battery voltage at the battery posts.

Step 4. Bypass Vehicle Wiring For Testing

G. Install the temporary switch in the cab.

H. After tests are complete, restore all wiring to original condition.

The engine should perform normally with the bypass installed.

P-211: Throttle Position Sensor Test

Step 1. Check Electrical Connectors And Wiring

* Check Connector lock rings.

* Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin or wire.

* Inspect wiring for damage or abrasion.

Step 2. Check Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment

A. If equipped with a "Pedal-Mounted" Throttle Position Sensor, proceed to Step 3.

The sensor should be able to be correctly adjusted as explained in P-306.

OK: Adjustment is correct. Continue to next step.

Step 3. Check Throttle Position Reading

OK: The throttle position sensor is currently operating correctly. Stop.

NOT OK: Continue to next step.

Step 4. Check Throttle Sensor Voltage Supply

A. Install a 3-pin 'T' at throttle sensor connector (J12/P12).

OK: Voltage supply OK. Continue to next step.

Step 5. Check Throttle Sensor Output Duty Cycle At Throttle Sensor

B. Connect the ECAP or DDT's PWM probe to Pin C of the 'T'.

D. Reinsert Wire C in J12.

OK: The throttle sensor is OK. Continue to next step.

Step 6. Check Throttle Sensor Duty Cycle At ECM

B. Install a 9-pin 'T' at vehicle connector (J2/P2).

C. Connect the PWM probe to Pin E on the 'T'.

E. Reinsert Wire E in P2.

Step 7. Check ECM

B. Check to see if Diagnostic Code 32 is ACTIVE.

P-212: Diagnostic Lamp Test

Step 1. Test Lamp Through ECM

Turn key ON, engine OFF.

OK: Lamp is working normally. Stop.

NOT OK: Lamp is not working properly. Continue to next step.

Step 2. Bypass The ECM

P-213: Vehicle Speed Signal Test

and the vehicle speedometer.

* Check Connector lock rings.

* Perform 10 pound pull test on each pin or wire.

* Note which wiring option is used.

* Inspect wiring for damage or abrasion.

Step 2. Inspect Sensor

OK: Continue to next step.