Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Garment Industry - Clothing Industry

4/14/2020 Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Garment Industry - Clothing Industry
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Marker:
It is an illustration of accurate and precise planning of patterns for a particular style of garment and the sizes to be cut from a
single spread on a marker paper. To prepare an efficient marker, the width of the fabric to be spread in a lay as well as the
number of pattern pieces to be included in the marker plan for all the required sizes should be known prior to it. Marker width
that is less than fabric width leads to more fabric wastage while marker width that is wider than fabric results in incomplete cut
components. The individual marker has to be prepared for linings and interfacing materials.
You may also like: Basics of Pattern Making in Garment Industry
Marker parameters:
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Markers are generally defined by two parameters at the beginning of the marker, namely, the relation to the relative symmetry Sheet for Reefer Coat
of the garment and mode.
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Relation to the relative symmetry of garment:

It is related to the technique of utilization of patterns concerned with the relative symmetry of garments.
freigegeben. So können Nutzungsstatistiken generiert, Missbrauchsfälle erkannt und behoben und die Qualität
Mixed marker: It is a kind of marker that is created for attaining higher marker efficiency. It is mainly utilised
des Dienstes gewährleistet werden. Functions of Production Planning
while processing asymmetric garments or when the fabric is spread in all face up mode.
and Control (PPC) in Clothing
Open marker: This kind of marker is prepared while processing asymmetric garments with the objective of
Industry
getting better spreading and cutting quality. It generally keeps a set of garment panels, that is, left and right
panels close to each other along the marker length and is utilised when the fabric is in open condition and
Finishing of Denim Fabric
spread in all face up mode.
Closed marker: In this marker, only one half of the pattern set is generally used for symmetric garments and the
fabric is folded lengthwise on the table after spreading it in face-to-face mode. Subsequent to the cutting
operation, one pattern could produce both sets of pattern pieces, that is, right and left garment panel when
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choosing a pair of successive plies.
Closed-on-open marker: Though it is like a closed marker, fabrics are not folded as the patterns should be
types of markers in garment industry
either kept at the left or right. The main limitation in this kind of marker is that single piece garment panels like
back bodice could not be prepared without the blocking and re-laying process. nap one way marker
Blocking and relaying: This type of marker is normally used along with the closed-on-open marker. In this
requirements of marker planning
process, after the garment panel is cut, the cut block for the pattern is separated in half, and the smaller size
pattern of that component is placed on the second half. This is then recut to the smaller size.
sectional marker
Single section marker: In this type of marker, different sizes of patterns are distributed all over the length of the
marker. It gives higher marker efficiency as a huge quantity of patterns could be accommodated in the marker.
marker length
Section marker: This kind of marker is utilised when the ratios of different garment sizes are known in advance.
Step markers are used when the order ratios of different sizes are not known in advance. It aids in processing
small orders of different sizes in an efficient manner by means of a stepped lay.
CATEGORIES
Grain: The patterns should be positioned in the marker in such a way that the grain line in the pattern piece
should be parallel to the selvedge of the fabric, which has a direct influence on the draping quality of the
garments.  ACCESSORIES
 APPAREL PRODUCTION
Mode:
 AUTOMATION
Generally, markers are made in several modes. The direction of the nap on the fabric is used to define the mode of spreading.
 CAD
Nap/One/Way marker: The Nap/One/Way marker (N/O/W) is produced with every pattern placed in the ‘down’
direction of the pattern in the identical direction. This kind of mode is required for asymmetric fabrics.  CLOTHING
Nap/Either/Way marker: When there is no restriction of orientation of pattern placement this kind of marker
 COSTING
could be used. The patterns could be placed in ‘up’ or ‘down’ direction but as parallel to the fabric grain. It is the
most efficient marker yielding the highest fabric utilisation.  CUTTING
Nap/Up/and Down marker: The Nap/Up/and Down marker (N/U/D) is more effective than the Nap/One/Way
 DENIM
marker; however, it is not as efficient as the Nap/Either/Way. In order to get a better fit between the patterns,
alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in opposite directions.  DENIM WASH
 ERP
Types of Garment Markers:
 FABRIC
Sectioned markers:  FIBER
Markers can be created as sections or a continuous one. Sectioned markers comprise all of the patterns of a particular  GARMENT FINISHING
garment size and style. They are easier to imagine and handle; however, they may not give the maximum marker efficiency.
 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
High-volume blocks could be kept on one side and low volume blocks at the opposite side of the marker; hence, the fabric can
 INSPECTION
be spread to correspond with the volume needed for each block. These kinds of markers are beneficial if there is an end-to-
end shade difference in the fabric.  LOOM
 MERCHANDISING
Continuous markers:  NONWOVEN

Continuous markers comprise patterns of all garment sizes for a particular garment style. It could be lengthier and need
 PATTERN
reorganising of pattern pieces frequently. These markers normally have higher marker efficiency due to its flexibility in grouping
 PLANNING
and manipulating larger as well as smaller pattern pieces. A splicing process where the fabrics can be cut across the width
and overlapped with the next fabric piece in case of occurrence of fabric fault to keep a continuous spread could be carried out  QUALITY
in this type of marker to minimise fabric wastage.  SEWING
 SEWING MACHINE
Marker Planning:
 SEWING THREAD
Marker making is the process of finding out the most proficient arrangement of pattern pieces for a particular garment style,
 TECHNICAL TEXTILE
fabric and range of sizes. This process requires skill, time and concentration to get the maximum efficiency. The process of
marker making can be explained in two aspects:  TESTING
 TEXTILE FINISHING
1. Marker planning: It is the placement of patterns in a paper to meet the technical requirements as well to minimise
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of fabric. TEXTILE INDUSTRY
2. Marker production/marker utilisation: This involves drawing of a marker plan directly on fabric or creating it on a  WEITERE
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paper marker, or copying information related to the pattern piece on the fabric without drawing any pattern lines over it
des Dienstes gewährleistet werden.  UNDERGARMENT
as in computerized cutting.
Requirements of marker planning:

Marker planning is more of a creative, intuitive and conceptualising process rather than a technical one and there is no final
result for a marker planning. The main purpose is to produce a shortest marker by considering all the practical and technical
constraints. The constraints in making a shortest marker are related to
Fabric characteristics and the design requirement in the finished garment
Cutting quality
Production planning
Fabric characteristic and the design requirement in finished garment:
1. Alignment of patterns with respect to fabric grain – All the patterns in the marker plan should be kept such that the grain
line in the pattern should be parallel to the fabric selvedge for better hanging and draping of garments (Figure-1).
Figure-1: Grain line in fabric
2. Fabric symmetry and asymmetry – If the face and back side of the fabrics have a similar appearance, then they are called
‘two-way’ or ‘symmetrical’ fabrics and it does not warrant any special requirement while marker planning. The asymmetric
fabric where the face and back are dissimilar needs some attention during marker planning.
Examples of asymmetric fabrics are those having a nap or pile. More complicated fabrics are ‘one way’ or ‘asymmetrical’.
These kinds of fabrics have a surface pile or a print design that has a recognisable object which can only be used one way.
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3. Design requirements in final garment – Design aspects of final garments also have to be considered while marker
planning to get a better visual appearance of the finished garment. For instance, if a vertical stripe in a garment does not
exhibit a complete replica of a repeat on the right and left panels of garment it looks awkward.
Cutting quality:
Since most of the garment units utilise a vertical blade for cutting of fabric panels, the marker plan should take into
freigegeben.
consideration theSo können
space Nutzungsstatistiken
required generiert,
for movement of the knife Missbrauchsfälle
blade especially while cutting inerkannt und behoben
curved areas. The space und die Qualität
required
between the patterns in the marker plan depends on the cutting method used.
A counting of number of patterns in the marker should be carried out to verify the complete set of patterns has been
incorporated in the marker plan. After cutting of fabric panels, sorting of pattern pieces as per the size, bundling of cut fabric
panels as per the colour and size and finally pattern count in each size should be done to confirm that all the patterns are
available for the assembling process. The marker planner should give coding to all patterns with its size during the preparation
of marker planning.
Production planning:
Each order is specified by a certain quantity with respect to size and colour. For example, an order for 12,000 trousers may
include 4800 blue, 4800 green and 2400 red, across sizes 30, 32, 34 and 36 in the ratio 2:4:4:2. The production planning and
control department have to ensure adequate supply of cut components to the sewing room at regular intervals.
Construction of Markers:
A marker is generally made by keeping the patterns one after the other in the length of the marker. The marker length states
the length of fabric that could be used in a lay. The marker length is defined by the following components, which are common
to all markers.
1. Selvedge lines: The two parallel lines should be drawn parallel to the edge of the cutting table. The gap or distance
between the selvedges represents the maximum fabric width that could be used during marker planning.
2. Beginning line: The beginning line is at the left side of the marker as seen by the marker planner and is perpendicular
to the selvedge lines and is considered a beginning position of the marker.
3. End line: The end line is marked at the end/right side of the marker (opposite the beginning line) which is located after
the extent of the last pattern and is drawn parallel to the beginning line joining the selvedge line.
4. Splice marks: Splice marks represent the area in the cutting table where the fabrics are overlapped during the run out
of fabric rolls or elimination of fabric defects during spreading. These marks are placed along the control selvedge.
5. Legend: The legend is used to give the key about the marker and normally consists of reference information about the
marker.
6. Placement rules: The marker planner has to consider the following general rules while marker planning:
a. The grain line in the pattern should be parallel to the fabric selvedge.
b. The patterns should be placed on the marker by considering the grain line in it.
c. The patterns should be kept as close as possible to minimise fabric wastage.
d. The patterns can be placed from largest to smallest, to get higher marker efficiency, leading to the least amount of
pattern manipulation as necessary.
Methods of Marker Planning:
Manual marker planning:

It is the conventional marker planning method and is still used by the garment industries where they make single garment
markers. The marker planner works easily by moving around the full-size patterns until an acceptable marker plan is obtained.
Multiple copies of the marker are usually required, which can be done by reproducing the master marker with a range of
duplicating methods.
Figure-2: Manual marker planning
1. Carbon duplicating – This method is utilized when very few numbers of copies are needed. Double-sided carbon paper or
special NCR-type (no carbon required) paper can be used for duplicating the master marker. In this method, only six to eight
copies of master marker can be made without much deterioration in the line.
2. Spirit duplicating – In this system of duplicating, a special hectograph sheet is placed underneath the marker. The
hectograph paper transfers a blue line on the back side of the master marker as it is drawn. A master marker is then utilised to
produce multiple copies one at a time in a duplicating machine where the master marker along with the white paper wetted in
alcohol is moved through the rollers which transfer the line onto the copy.
3. Diazo photographic method – This technique can be used to make copies as required, one at a time. Here, both the light-
sensitive paper and a marker are passed through a UV light source, where the light-sensitive paper can be developed by
ammonia vapour, which produces a copy.
Computerized marker planning:

This method is generally a part of an integrated system that comprises digitising of full-size patterns into the computer,
conveniences for pattern alteration, and by inputting suitable grading rules to create all the required sizes. The various
components involved are visual display unit with keyboard, tablet, data pen and mouse (Figure-3).
Figure-3: Computerized marker planning system.
The marker planner indicates the precise make-up of the marker plan such as fabric width, the pattern pieces to be utilised,
and product sizes to be included in the marker and the constraints to be considered including any matching of checks. Then
the system generates a marker plan automatically or interactively. The automatic marker planning needs data defining the
placement of pattern pieces in markers previously planned, and selection of a suitable marker which gives the highest marker
freigegeben.
efficiency. In the So können
interactive Nutzungsstatistiken
method, the marker planninggeneriert,
was done by Missbrauchsfälle erkannt
interaction of the marker undwith
planner behoben undAlldie Qualität
the system.
the available patterns will be exhibited in miniature form at the top right of the screen. For manoeuvring the patterns data pen,
the mouse and the keyboard can be utilised.
The system finally positions the pattern pieces accurately based on marking rules specified. Subsequent to selection of an
economical marker plan, the computer will also give a pattern count, marker efficiency and total marker length at the bottom of
the screen. The computerized planning provides a pattern grading facility as well and allows the reproduction of as many
copies of a marker as are necessary.
Marker Efficiency:
Marker efficiency refers to fabric utilization and is defined as the percentage of the total fabric that is actually utilized in
garment components. It depends on how closely the patterns are arranged in the marker; that is, length of marker. The marker
efficiency is defined by the formula as given below:
Area of patterns in the marker plan
Marker Efficiency (%) = -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Total area of the marker
The influencing factors for the marker efficiency are characteristics of fabric, profile/shape of the pattern pieces and grain
requirements.
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4/14/2020 Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Garment Industry - Clothing Industry

garments quality book name of garments accessories manufacturing factory

  Cutting  Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Garment Industry

Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Search

You may also like: Basics of Pattern Making in Garment Industry

How to Prepare Speci cation

How Should a Bra Fit Properly

Relation to the relative symmetry of garment:

Sectioned markers:  FIBER

end shade difference in the fabric.  LOOM

Continuous markers:  NONWOVEN

in this type of marker to minimise fabric wastage.  SEWING

marker making can be explained in two aspects:  TESTING

Requirements of marker planning:

constraints. The constraints in making a shortest marker are related to

Fabric characteristics and the design requirement in the finished garment

Fabric characteristic and the design requirement in finished garment:

Figure-1: Grain line in fabric

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c. The patterns should be kept as close as possible to minimise fabric wastage.

pattern manipulation as necessary.

Methods of Marker Planning:

Manual marker planning:

Figure-2: Manual marker planning

ammonia vapour, which produces a copy.

Computerized marker planning:

Figure-3: Computerized marker planning system.

the mouse and the keyboard can be utilised.

copies of a marker as are necessary.

efficiency is defined by the formula as given below:

Area of patterns in the marker plan

Marker Efficiency (%) = -----------------------------------------------------------------------

Total area of the marker

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