FB

SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL FROM

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing

9 x 12
240pp
hardcover, spiral binding
978-1-56367-486-0
AblingDDD_FM 6/25/08 7:02 PM Page vii

CONTENTS
Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents
Extended Contents ....................................................ix
Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1
Tools and Supplies .........................................1

Chapter 2
Skirts .........................................................................21

Chapter 3
Bodice ......................................................................55

Chapter 4
Bodice Variations..........................................79

Chapter 5
Necklines and Collars ...........................107

Chapter 6
Sleeves ...................................................................133

Chapter 7
Dresses ..................................................................165 |
vii

Chapter 8
Drawing ..............................................................189

Appendix ............................................................221
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Extended Contents
Preface............................................................................xi
Chapter 1
Tools and Supplies
Draping: Muslin......................................................2
Tools and Supplies...........................................2
Comparing the Dress Form to
the Drawn Form............................................4
Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6
Tools and Supplies...........................................6
Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper ......................7
Tools and Supplies...........................................7
Terms and Definitions...........................................8
Draping ...................................................................10
Taping the Dress Form ................................14
Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16
Drawing ..................................................................17
Tools and Supplies ........................................17
Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18
Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure ...................19
Chapter 2
Skirts
Draping the Skirt .................................................22
Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28
Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32
Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34
Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38
Skirt Variations .....................................................39
Straight Skirt ...................................................39
Flare Skirt ........................................................42
Six-Gore Skirt .................................................45
Pleated Skirt ....................................................48
Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50
Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52
EXTENDED CONTENTS
Chapter 3
Bodice
Draping the Bodice..............................................56
Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62
Making the Bodice Sloper .................................66
Drafting the Bodice from Measurements .....68
Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72
Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders .....73
Completed Bodice Draft .............................74
Shaping the Bodice .......................................75
Drawing Options .................................................76
Chapter 4
Bodice Variations
Bodice Variations .................................................80
Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80
Princess Seam.....................................................82
Armhole Princess Seam ..................................86
Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90
Drawing Bodice Variations ...........................93
Side and Waist Darts.......................................94
Shoulder Yoke with Tucks
and Gathered Waist ......................................96
Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100
|ix
Dartless Back Shoulder................................103
Drawing Bodice Details .............................104
Chapter 5
Necklines and Collars
Necklines ..................................................108
Jewel Neck ..........................................108
V-Neck ................................................110
Scoop Neck .........................................112
Square Neck ........................................114
Bateau Neck ........................................116
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Collars.......................................................118
Peter Pan Collar ..................................118
Pilgrim Collar ......................................120
Mock Shawl ........................................122
Convertible Collar...............................124
Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126
Band Collar .........................................128
Drawing Necklines and Collars ................130
Chapter 6
Sleeves
Draping the Sleeve ....................................134
Stuffed Arm .........................................134
Marking the Muslin ...........................140
Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144
Draft from Measurements ..................145
Draft the Cap ......................................146
Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148
Draft....................................................148
Sleeves ......................................................150
Leg-o-Mutton ......................................150
Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152
Blouse ..................................................154
Full Bell ...............................................156
Puff .....................................................158
Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160
Drawing Sleeves .......................................162
Chapter 8
Drawing
Donald Brooks: Costume
and Fashion Designer .............................190
Collars and Cuffs......................................192
Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194
Sleeves .......................................................196
Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198
Pleating .....................................................200
Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice ............202
Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204
Five Stages for a Garment:
Bodice Variations ...................................206
Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208
Back Drape ..............................................210
Dresses ......................................................212
Sketching Options.....................................214
Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216
Drawing Soft Drape..................................218
Appendix
Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222
Standard Sportswear and
Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223
Croquis Templates ....................................224

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Chapter 7
Dresses
Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166
Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168
Dresses ......................................................170
Shift Dress ...........................................170
Princess Dress ......................................174
Sheath Dress ........................................178
Tent Dress............................................180
Drawing Dresses .......................................184
Design Variety...........................................186
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Preface
T his book is about a dialog between an artist
and a technician. It illustrates the design process,
encompassing sketch and garment pattern devel-
opment. It depicts the relationship among three
disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting,
and drawing. The integration is presented in a
highly visual format.
These disciplines, particularly draping and
drafting, are often taught in separate classes.
Their relationship is integral to efficient and time-
saving methods of developing a design and its
pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between
studio methods and design illustration. Each
chapter renders a combination of skills and the
natural flow among them. Two-dimensional
design informs the three-dimensional and vice
versa.
Chapters are presented as hands-on learning
experiences with lessons that mimic classroom
demonstrations. Step-by-step photography por-
trays the draping process in a sculptural way
rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly
depict the response of fabric draped on a dress
form. The images of muslin “sculpture” com-
bined with digital drafts offer interchangeable
solutions for pattern development.
Throughout the book, there are alternative
methods used by practicing designers for devel-
oping slopers. These are master patterns, created
by draping or drafting and used to generate style
variations. We chose the basic components of the
PREFACE
dress as the model used throughout the text to
demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing
are integrated in design development. The com-
ponents are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar,
sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines
are similarly integrated in the design of men’s and
children’s wear.
Each chapter builds on the last. After an
introduction to tools and preparation techniques
in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with
draping as the first step in producing a sloper.
Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alterna-
tive method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing
respectively on bodice variations, necklines and
collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because,
for many of the design variations, these chapters
utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters.
In the case of a design variation such as the leg-o-
mutton sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern
is more efficient than draping it.
All design starts with an idea, which needs to
be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are
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xi
interwoven throughout the book, with an empha-
sis on understanding body lines in relation to the
dress form and proportion. It is directed toward
communicating specific garment detail in the con-
text of related projects. Lessons ground the cre-
ative process and strike a balance between the
technical and visual elements. Drawing informs
draping and drafting, just as these disciplines
inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are
included in each chapter. Drawings correspond to
patterns and convey countless ideas for design
diversification and inspiration.
In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit
Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. She
became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his
work while he served as a visiting designer critic
to the fashion design department of Parsons
School of Design. This twentieth century design-
er is renowned for his accomplishments in cos-
tume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. The
authors found that dresses from the exhibition
collection served as the ideal inspiration for this
book. Even using the basic garment components
taught in this book, Mr. Brooks’ designs exude
timelessness in their execution and fabrication.
Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises
focused on rendering his designs and their fine
design details. It also depicts the relationship that
exists among draping, drafting, and drawing
exemplified in the images of garments from
Chapters 2 through 7.
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xii
Acknowledgments
We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his pho-
tography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thank
you to Fred Gross for his word crafting
of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form
Company, thanks for their assistance. We are
grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well
as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse
into Donald Brooks’ portfolio. Many thanks to
Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia
Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the
multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us to
bring this project together. To the reviewers select-
ed by the publisher, we express our appreciation of
their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico,
Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts
College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State
University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas—
Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State
University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College.
We’d also like to thank our students, whose
enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle our
passion for fashion.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:09 PM Page 55

B OD I CE
With experience gained from producing the
skirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice
pattern. Draping the bodice involves balanc-
ing the front and back muslin, distributing
and controlling fullness by forming darts,
and fitting the neckline and armhole. The
muslin drape is trued and transferred to
paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed
instructions depict taking measurements
and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice
as another option. Drawing the body
contours is a critical factor in visually
communicating the fit and form of
the bodice. Studies of body lines,
proportion, pose, flats, and specs
are included in this chapter.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:10 PM Page 56

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice

Tape the Dress Form
• Bust
• Center front and center back
• Princess lines
• Side seam
• Base of the neckline
• Shoulder seam
• Shoulder blade level
(4 down from neckline at CB)
• Armhole ridge
Note: Do not cover seam lines
with tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin Mark the Muslin

1 Front length: Measure from the Bust 1 Measure 1 in from the length-
dress form neckband to the Level wise torn edge. Draw in CF
waist at CF plus 2 Width
line
2 Front width: Measure from the 2 Measure from the neckband to
CF at bust level to the side Center the bust level. Square a line
seam plus 2 1⁄2  Front
across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CF to the
Length
side seam across bust level.
Side
Seam
Add 1⁄2  for ease. Cross mark
for the side seam on the bust
line.
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56
1 Drape
1 Align the muslin length
2

and cross grain line

with the tape on the
dress form. Pin the
muslin at the CF neck-
line, 3  above and
below the bust tape and
waist. Pin the cross
grain line at the bust
point at princess line.
2 Distribute 1⁄2  ease
across the bust line and
pin cross mark at the
side seam.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:10 PM Page 57

BODICE
1 2 Shoulder
Dart Neckline

Center
Front
Bust
Level

Waistline
Side
Seam

Form the Shoulder Dart

Drape the Neckline
4
1 Pin at the intersection of the
center front seam and neckline
of the dress form.
2 To release the muslin for fitting,
cut a 2  2 square off the corner.
3 Pin and slash down the seam
allowance (perpendicular to the
neckline) toward pin.
4 Continue pinning and slashing
along neckline to the shoulder
seam. The muslin should lie
smoothly across the chest and
shoulder, with no stretching or
pulling at neckline. 1⁄8  ease
should be included.
5 Smooth the muslin from the
shoulder neck point to the
princess line or midpoint on the
shoulder and pin.
6 Smooth the excess muslin from
the bust line pinned at the side
seam up over the shoulder
towards the princess line and
pin.
7 Fold the excess muslin to form
a dart. Pin the fullness at the
shoulder.
8 Pin the side seam starting at the
arm plate down to the waist.
9 Pin out the fullness from the
shoulder down towards the bust

7 8 9
point.
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57
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice

1 3

Bust Point
Center
Front

Waistline

Armhole

Side
Seam

Waist Dart

5 6 7

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58

Form the Waist Dart Mark the Draped Muslin

1 From the side seam at waist,
pin along the waist toward the
princess line. Slash the muslin
towards the pins. Allow for
1
⁄4  ease along waist.
2 Smooth and pin from the center
front waist towards the princess
line.
3 Fold the excess muslin to form a
dart. Pin the fullness at the waist
and pin the dart towards the
bust point.
4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill
tape along the waist and side seam.
5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist
and the intersection of the side seam at the waist
and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the
shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at
the shoulder neck point.
6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.
7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the
shoulder and side seam for the back drape.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:10 PM Page 59

BODICE
Prepare the Back Muslin
Torn Edge • Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the
Shoulder waist at Center Back plus 2.
Blade
Level
• Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam
plus 3.
Bust Line
Level Mark the Muslin
Center
Back Line
1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the
Center Back line.
2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a
line across the muslin.
3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add
1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

Shoulder 4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Blade Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.
Cross
Mark 5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and
cross mark.
Cross Drape the Back
Mark
for Side 1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Seam at
Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and
Bust Line
Tape waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the
tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1⁄4  ease
to the cross mark at the armhole ridge.
Back Muslin 2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down
the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder
seam.

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59
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Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing
Draping the Bodice
1 2
3 4
Form the Waist Dart
5 From the side seam at the waist, pin
along the waist toward the princess
line. Slash the muslin towards the pins.
Allow for 1⁄4  ease along the waist.
6 Smooth and pin from the center back
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60
waist toward the princess line.
7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form
a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist
and pin the dart along the princess
line to 1 above the bust level line.
8 9
Form the Shoulder Dart
1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder
neck point to the princess line on the
shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay
flat across the chest and shoulder
with no stretching or pulling at the
neckline.
2 Smooth the excess muslin from the
shoulder blade line at armhole up
over the shoulder towards the
princess line and pin.
3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a
small dart along the princess line.
4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder
and mark the vanishing point of the
dart with a pin.
Mark the Draped Muslin
8 Dot along the bottom of the twill
tape along the waist and side seam.
9 Cross mark on either side of the
dart at the waist and the intersec-
tion of the side seam at the waist
and arm plate. Cross mark at the
end of the shoulder, on each side
of the shoulder dart and at the
shoulder neck point.
10 Dot along the shoulder and neck-
line.
10
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:11 PM Page 61

BODICE
Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 2
1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers
toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the
front over the back at the side seam matching
the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape
around the bodice waistline.
2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders
together with the excess muslin turned out.
Trim, leaving 1 seam allowance.

3a 3b

4 5

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61

3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back, 6 7

matching the shoulder darts.
4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5.
The darts should be centered on the shoulder
seam.
5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around
the armhole ridge.
6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate.
7 Blend the front and back waistline by marking
along tape.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:11 PM Page 62

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

1 1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping
the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoul-
der seam.
2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the
front and back waists. They should each include
1
⁄4  ease. Adjust if necessary.

3 Square a line from the center line 1 to begin

trueing the waistline.

4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the

waistline along the dots.

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62
5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs
with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart
points may end at the bust level line. Measure
across the bust line. The front and back should
each include at least 1⁄2  ease.

5
Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:11 PM Page 63

BODICE
6

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole.

It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with

the curve in two parts since it’s 1 longer than
the front.
9 Draw the side seams.

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the

shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be
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63

slightly curved from the princess line to the neck.

Use the curve to draw that in.

10
Center
Mapping Out
Front
Darts on
the Torso

Princess Seams
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 64

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

11

12

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon
paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam
13a to obtain the jog of the dart.
12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 1⁄4  at
the center front and widen the neck 1⁄8  at the shoulder seam.
Use an L-square for the first 1⁄4  of the neckline in the front and
1
⁄2  in the back.
13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of
the originally marked neck.
14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 1⁄2  at
the armhole and neckline. A 1 seam should be allowed for the
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64 13b
side seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

14
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 65

BODICE
15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the
screw level on the armholes and a second notch 1⁄4  below the notch for the back.

Drawing Flats
Steps for drawing a flat free-hand
without a flat figure reference.
1 Neckline
Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct
proportion and fit of a garment.
Tracing Paper or Semi-
Translucent Marker Paper

2 Shoulder and
then Armhole

3 Creating
Matching
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65

Side Seams
Flat of Your
Garment
Sketching Only without the
Flat Figure Sketch on the Garment as it Figure
4 Planning Another Page Would Fit
Hemline Width

5 Starting
Shoulder Darts D

A Proportions
B Sewing Lines
6 Finishing
C Fit
Waistline Darts D FInished Flat
A B C
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 66

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Making the Bodice Sloper

Muslin to Paper Pattern
1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove
the pins and press flat.
2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place the
muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights
or push pins to hold the muslin in place.
3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with
a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal.
Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.
4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, and center seam
allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 1⁄2 
allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

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66

Paper Pattern to Sloper

1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the
pattern. Fold it in half and press
a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw
a cross grain line using an L-
square. Fold the center seam
allowance of the paper pattern
under and align with the fold
and the cross grain.
2 Transfer all pattern lines to the
oaktag using a needle point
tracing wheel.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:12 PM Page 67

BODICE
Drawing Darts for
This Bodice

3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using

straight and curve rulers. Mark length grain
lines parallel to the center lines.
4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or
pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam
allowances are not necessary on slopers.
5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain
line at side seam.
6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts.
7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole
and hanging it on a pattern hook.

Fit Construction Detail

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67

Flat of
This Bodice
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 68

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

N L N L
K+ + + K+ + +
5/8”
Q W Q
I+ + +O I+ + W1 + +O
3/8”
+M +S
+M 1”
1”
S1
+P +A +P +A
X+

3/4”
G V G
H H +
L1 E L1
D C D E R
+ C

1” 1” 1” 1” 1”
J+ + + +B J+ + + +B
J1 J1 Y T
F U F

Back Front Back Front

N Z3 L N Z3 L
K+ + + K+ + +
W Z1 Q W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O I+ + + W1 + +O
1/2” 7/8”
+S +S
+M +M
11/4”
S1 S1
++ A ++ A
+P +P
X+ 1/4” X+
+ Z4 + Z4

_
_ _ _
_ _
+ armplate
screw
+

Z2 + Z2 +

approx. 1”

V G approx. 1” V G
H + H +
L1 L1 E R
D E R D + C
+ C

J+ J+ + 1”
+ + +B + + +B
J1 Y T J1 U Y T
U F F

Back Front Back Front

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human fig-
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68
ure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.

Measuring the Dress Form

1 Center front 2 Bust circumference (fullest 3 Front neck to 4 1⁄2 bust

length (base of part at bust level). Pin tape bust level circumference
neck to waist) parallel to the floor CF to CB
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 69

BODICE
5 Side seam 6 Back neck 7 Center back 8 Back 9 Across back
(waist to 1 to bust level length (base of shoulder, neck shoulder
below arm neck to waist) to waist (armhole to
plate) armhole)

10 Back waist 11 Back 12 Front 13 Across 14 Front

to shoulder shoulder (base shoulder neck front chest waist to
(1 from CB of neck to end to waist shoulder
waist to end of
shoulder)
of shoulder)
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69

15 Front 16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist 18 Across back

shoulder length circumference
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 70

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight
line 2 in from the right side of a 24  24 sheet
of pattern paper
2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck
to the Bust level
1
3 C to D = ⁄2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 ⁄4 
1
ease
4 D to E = ⁄2 CD minus ⁄4 
1 1
5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist)
6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below arm-
plate). Extend the guideline to the top of the
paper
7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back
from G. Extend the line 2 1⁄4  toward the front
8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck
9 I to J = Center Back Length
10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point -
Square a line across to the side seam guideline
1
11 K to L = ⁄2 of Across Shoulder measurement
plus 1 for dart & ease
12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G.
Mark L1 where they intersect
13 Square a guideline from J toward F for the back
waist
14 Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist
15 J to J1 = 1
16 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the
Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point
where it intersects with line L-L1
17 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the
Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the
point where it intersects with line K-L
18 B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder
Neck point. Square a guideline across to the
side seam guideline
19 Draw a parallel guideline 5⁄8  to the right of the
side seam line from the top towards line G-H
20 B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder
at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where
it intersects the 5⁄8  guideline
21 P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the
dart

Drafting
N L
Diagram K+ + +
5/8”
Steps 1 – 21 Q
I+ + +O

+M

+P +A

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70

G
H
L1 E
D C

1”
J+ + + +B
J1
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 71

BODICE
30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the
1
22 C to R = ⁄2 the Bust Point to Bust Point
23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline. dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1⁄2 past the
Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw waist guideline
dart legs. Extend all dart lines 1⁄2 past the waist 31 J to Y = ⁄4 of the Waist minus ⁄2, plus 2 ⁄4
1 1 1

guideline for dart and ease

1
24 B to T = ⁄4 of the Waist circumference plus 32 Y to G = Back Side Seam
2 3⁄4  (the front is 1⁄2 wider than the back, plus 33 N to W = ⁄2 the Shoulder plus ⁄8 ease
1 1

1
⁄4  ease, plus 2 for the dart) 34 W – W1 = ⁄4 (Dart)
3

25 T to G = Front Side Seam 35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 1⁄2
1
26 Q to S = ⁄2 the Front Shoulder to X
27 S to S1 = 2 for the Dart. At the center of the 36 Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 1⁄2
dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect beyond the shoulder line
dart legs to R and extend all lines 1⁄2 past the
shoulder guideline
28 V = Intersection of J1 – M with line G-H. Shift
3
⁄4  towards the Center Back and mark V
U = Square a line down from V, extending ⁄2
1
29
past the waist guideline

Drafting
N L
Diagram K+ + +
Steps 22 – 36 W
+ W1
Q
I+ + +O
3/8”
+S
+M 1”
1”
S1
+P +A
X+

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71

3/4”
V G
H +
L1 E R
D + C

1” 1” 1” 1”
J+ + + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 72

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

Drafting the Neckline and Armholes
2
37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center 41 Z2 = ⁄3 of Z1 - H-G
Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up 42 Square a line from H-G to Z2
to the Shoulder Neck Point 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 ⁄4 guideline at a 45-
1
guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French
degree angle to the guideline square. Use a curve.
1
French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep 44 Back Armhole: K – Z3 = ⁄2 the Across Back
the Center Front neckline level for 1⁄4 before measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G
1
curving 45 Z4 = ⁄2 Z3 - H-G
39 Back Neck: Draw a ⁄8 guideline at a 45-degree
7
46 Square a line from H-G to Z4
angle to the guideline square. Use a French 47 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the
curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G
Center Back neckline level for ⁄2 before
1
and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French
curving curve
1
40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = ⁄2 the Across Chest
measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

Drafting Diagram
Steps 37 – 47
N Z3 L
K+ + +
W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O
1/2” 7/8”
+S
+M
11/4”

|
72
X+
+ Z4
+P
S1

1/4”
++ A

_
_ _
+ armplate
screw

Z2 +

approx. 1”

V G approx. 1”
H +
L1 E R
D + C

J+ + + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 73

BODICE
Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders
48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the 52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.
waist dart legs closest to the centers towards The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the
the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin front and back neckline and armhole at the
the side seam together shoulder
49 Square a line 1 from the Center Front and 53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.
back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing
ruler to blend the front and back waists wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance
50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw and cut out. Pin fit and adjust
in the jog of the darts
51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the
centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.
Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front
and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing
wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog
of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be
slightly curved when adjusted on the figure

Drafting Diagram
Steps 48 – 53
N Z3 L
K+ + +
W Z1 Q
I+ + + W1 + +O

+S
+M

X+
+ Z4
+P
S1
++ A

|
73

_
_ _
+

Z2 +

V G
H +
L1 E R
D + C

J+ + 1”
+ + +B
J1 U Y T
F

Back Front
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 74

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements

Completed Bodice Draft

Shoulder Blade Level

Center Front Bodice

Center Back Bodice

Bust Level

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

|
74
Center Front Bodice
Center Back Bodice

1/2”

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.

AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 75

BODICE
Shaping the Bodice
Bust Line Bodice Bodice Dart Bodice Fit
Contour Length Position

Bust
Level

The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over

the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest.
The bust level runs between the front darts.

Full Full
Front Back

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate

the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoul-
der blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across
|
75

the back of the bodice.

Scapula or Shoulder Back

Shoulder Blade Dart
Blades Level Position
Shoulder
Blade
Level

Bust
Level
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:13 PM Page 76

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drawing Options
Figure
Angles Pose

Posing a flat has the

Notice how the direction of the torso, advantage of
in any pose, affects the contours or emphasizing fit:
curves in the sewing lines, as they turn in this example,
with the figure. the look or fit of
the bodice as it
Form and hugs the chest.
Function Flat

Flats give you all of

The function of the darts is to make a the construction and
garment fit or follow the form, in this shape detail without

|
76 case, the form of the bust line curve.

Body
the possible distortion
of a posed flat.

Planes Spec

Elongated
Fashion
Figure

Specs provide the most

The torso can be divided into four sides. comprehensive detail-
This pose shows off two sides and the ing for every aspect in
front of this square. The turn direction, creating a garment, to
for this pose, is evident in the sides and produce it en masse.
affects where you draw the dart lines.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:14 PM Page 77

BODICE
Posed
Shape Darts Flat Finish

Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize

fit, to highlight form or function. This pose shows
off the bustline contouring.

Finish

Note:
Shading
Softens
Look of
Fabric
and Also
Accents the
Fit or Form

Shape Darts Non-Posed Portfolio

or Studio Flat

Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-

struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustline
contouring is not emphasized. |
77

Big Overall Small Interior Adding Exterior

Shape Measurements Measurements Measurements

Flat Turned
into a Spec

Technical Flat Sketch for Production

Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain
flat to reflect the “specifics” of its fit to document its
measurements for production.
AblingDDD_Chap3 6/25/08 10:14 PM Page 78